61-79-list-digest Saturday, June 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 191



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - ground
Re: FTE 61-79 - ground
Re: FTE 61-79 - JB Weld
Re: FTE 61-79 - found '66 chrome grill
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Final Dizzy Update. Timing Specs
Re: FTE 61-79 -FE taller vs smaller ports
Re: FTE 61-79 - wheel bearing grease
FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?
FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
FTE 61-79 - More hot starting but leaky thermostat housing fixed itself
FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/questions from the "new guy"
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/questions from the "new guy"
Re: FTE 61-79 - More hot starting but leaky thermostat housing fixed itself
FTE 61-79 - Taillights/brakelights
Re: FTE 61-79 - Taillights/brakelights
FTE 61-79 - tuning my new 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - tuning my new 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - tuning my new 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - ground
Re: FTE 61-79 - tuning my new 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/questions from the "new guy"
FTE 61-79 - 69 Head :-))
Re: FTE 61-79 - 69 Head :-))
FTE 61-79 - FE intake manifold
FTE 61-79 - torque specs
FTE 61-79 - C6 identification
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot Starting
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Final Dizzy Update. Timing Specs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Taillights/brakelights
FTE 61-79 - PCV for 69 F250 with Holley 1850

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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 09:04:36 GMT
From: Van ster
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ground

I was wondering if anybody ever had any problems with the engine not
grounding the rest of thier truck? The reason I ask is about 10 times in
the last 6 months I get into my truck and the interior light, radio,
starter, headlights, (everything) is dead. My battery is a brand new
Interstate, brand new cables, new solenoid on fender. I can slam the doors
a couple times or let the clutch snap back and eventually everything comes
back to life, and the truck will turn over. It's never died while driving.
The big question is: Could I be loosing ground somewhere between the engine
and frame? Is there a ground strap between the two and if yes where? I
have my volt meter sitting on the front seat and when it does it again I can
determine if the cab has any +or-. Thanks!!!

Brian
77 F250, 351M


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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 04:52:03 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ground

Could I be loosing ground somewhere between the engine
> and frame? Is there a ground strap between the two and if yes where?
There should be a ground strap between the block and the firewall.I
think it's normally placed behind the carb on the back of the manifold.
If it's not there, or not connected, it could be causing your problem.
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 04:16:34 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - JB Weld

I was given a set of 302 heads for 50 bux for the valves and the
adjustable studs and guideplates.

I found that both these heads were cracked along the outside water
passage and the owner not only ground a groove out and filled them with
jb weld he used the old head gaskets and let students drag race the car
(by the way it was in a 72 pinto) he got rid of the engine to put in a
429. during the whole season he had no problems.

I have fixed a few old toyota land crewzers blocks with a metal epoxy
under the brand name "Devcon" it comes in steel, aluminium, brass,
and titianium. it is all supposed to be great and ws recomended to me by
a machinist.

I drill the ends of the cracks and use a grinder to create a v grove and
fill it in. one block is still in service 15 years later.

Bill Brox wrote:
>
> I wonder, would it be possible to fill a tiny hole in an engine cylinder
> with JB Weld ? 2/3 down a 302 cylinder...
>
> Bill
>
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 06:31:39 -0500
From: "Corey Johnson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - found '66 chrome grill

I too would be interested as my grill and head light covers are alittle too
banged up.


MARTY COLMAN wrote:

> The other day I was checking out a wrecked 71 to get the p/s off for my
> pickup, and low and behold I found what looks like the 66's on the FTE
> pictoral(I'm not too familiar with this style). The pickup is a little
> banged up but it has a perfect chrome grill, blinkers with chrome trim and a
> flawless chrome bumper on it.



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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 06:46:29 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines

> little off subject but i had to put that in.. :)
>
> last one, a 302, a guy came in the shop with it, and he works at jasper,
> got it built real nice, big cam, Gt40 heads. we put it in his 4wd '85
> F150, he came back about a week later and it had also blew a piston!
> screwed up the had a little bit, well they would only warranty the short
> block, and not the heads because he bought them seperate. took them to the
> machine shop and they needed 4 new exhaust valves, and ALL the guides, not
> from the piston blowing, because jasper dosent replace the guides believe
> it or not! look at their engine layout advertisment, dosent say anything
> about guides!

If you read the layut you'll also find that only replace pistons "when
necessary." I've never seen a set of cast pistons with 80,000 miles on
them that were worth putting back in. They also regrind the core cam to
"their specifications." You don't have to wear a size 10 hat to know
what most of these engines are going to be after a short while.
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 07:50:30 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Final Dizzy Update. Timing Specs

>with the timing set in a certain place, if you switch from ported to
>manifold, you have to rotate the distributor about 1/8th turn to keep the
>idle at the specified 550 rpm, and the timing at the sweet spot When
>hooked up to manifold, it advances at idle (at high vacuum), and backs off
>the vacuum advance once idle conditions are left and the accelerator pedal
>is pressed. I think this is how vacuum advance is supposed to work. I
>tune it by ear, advancing till it knocks, then back off what I estimate to
>be 5-6 degrees.
>
Don't rotate the dist to set the idle back down, use the idle adjustment
screw (if you have one). A higher idle means the motor is running better,
well getting more power anyway, this is usually a good thing... set it
without the vacuum hooked up, actually set everything without it hooked up
and then plug in the advance....some tune the carb with the advance hooked
up, some without ... your idle shouldn't really change all that much when
you hook up the vacuum port, unless you're forgetting to plug it while you
set things ...



Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 08:02:25 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -FE taller vs smaller ports

At 02:05 AM 6/4/99 , you wrote:
>Thanks. Sounds like you know exactly what I'm looking to do with this thing
>right now.
>
>> > Do these taller ports affect performance?
>> >
>> There was a big discussion on this last week! The smaller (after '66)
>> ports are better for stock and mild built engines because they have less
>> volume and more velocity. This is good for low to midrange horsepower
>> and torque. The taller ports (pre '66) have more volume, and with the
>> right cam and compression, more velocity-good for horsepower and torque
>> in the mid to upper range. It all depends on how you build it. As long
>> as you stay with the same size ports between the heads and intake,
>> you'll be alright.


For those of you with lots of time on your hands, or very fast connections,
I have put up a Vehicle picture page which shows the intakes I have laying
side by side. Unfortunately the flash obliterated the measurements on the
picture, but I think you can still see the difference in port sizes ...

the pic page is at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/pic.html

or you can go to the pictures directly by going to

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Images/Truck/eng10.jpg

the pictures are eng10 through eng14, so if you don't want to go through
all the other pics you can just change the number in the webaddress.

If you look at 13 and 14 you can see the difference in height.
Number 13 shows that the port easily clears 2", though you have to squint
to see that 3, 4, and 5" are all listed there ... believe me that the 3"
line is lined up with the bottom of the port.

Number 14 shows the smaller port, it looks to be the same size, except that
the black stuff around the 6" mark is all metal, the port itself stops at
about the middle of the number 6, so you can see that it is less than the
2" that the other one was ... sorry for the pic quality, I"m not so good
with the photo editing stuff, well that and I haven't tried photoshop yet,
so if someone wants to play with them, feel free to.

Thought some of you might find that interesting ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 08:08:35 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - wheel bearing grease

>meet. I have to say though, I can't be too harsh on my truck for eating
>bearings
>for lunch-- I run a ridiculously offset 10 in wide rims on all of them,
and the
>smallest tires I own are 33x12.5's, so the stress placed on the outer bearing
>from moving the centerpoint of weight to the outside of the outer bearing
>has to
>be harsh on them to begin with... not to mention the way I drive can't
help all
>that much.


And now everyone knows why you don't put those dorky tires that stick
waaaaay out to the sides on your car ... this is what happens ... you burn
up wheel bearings. Do you think the guys who put these tires on know that
? Probably not, they just think it makes their car look "cool" which I
guess is all in the eye of the beer holder ...

Anyway thanks for provin my point Tony :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 07:11:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?

Bas van der Veer wrote:
> The front is supposed to start braking first. The front brakes
> are hooked up to the rear part of the cilinder, the big reservoir.

I dunno, I think the fronts should certainly have more braking
capacity, and they should lock up before the rears. But it is
important for all four to begin applying at the same time,
especially under light braking on slick surfaces.

Let's say my assumption about the spring in the MC is incorrect.
What might be the purpose for it?

> My bronco has the same thing, I hate it. I replaced most of the
> brake system by now, and had a professional mechanic look at it
> but they just never get firm.

Last night I was very careful to close the valves before the pedal
reached the floor. I also curved the plastic line in an arc above
the bleeder valve so any bubbles that tried to go back up the line
stopped halfway. This allowed work a little slower.

I took my time and went through a lot of brake fluid. I got a
few bubbles out of the rear system. I haven't driven it yet, but
the pedal feels firmer. I am going to call it good and work on
other things.

> What are the symptoms of a broken proportional valve?

Good point. As I said, the reason I replaced it was that I got
mine out of a wrecked truck in a yard. And it was the only other
thing I changed before my brakes went soft. Now I have a new
one. Eventually I will have all new brake components and I will
be confident that my brakes are reliable while pulling trailers.

> I don't know any better than that they're supposed to be hooked
> up backwards. (front brakes on rear cylinder)

When I started asking questions about this I was saying "the rear
cylinder (the one in front)", but after a while I just called it
the rear cylinder. It was hooked up wrong before. It took me
a while to come up with a way to run the lines so they crossed,
but still looked good.

> My brake lines were all cracked, they had the original '77 tags on
> them. But replacing them did not help, other than that now they are
> probably less likely to fail at an inconvenient moment.

Good. I don't think I am going to replace mine as they look like
they were replaced recently, probably at the time of the disk brake
conversion.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 07:12:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: draco
Subject: Brake lining material

What do you guys think is the best way to go for front disks and
drum rear. Non-metallic, Semi-Metallic, Metallic? Anyone know
what was original on '73-79 trucks?

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 10:36:10 -0400
From: john.e.turpel bellatlantic.COM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More hot starting but leaky thermostat housing fixed itself

Hi I,m still experiencing the hot starting problem with the truck.

I will address it further this weekend. I am leaning towards the carb perc
scenario
because sometimes I do smell gas and sometimes it behaves as though its mildly
flooded.
Also I found out something else...

*The truck will restart fine hot as long as I restart it before roughly 8
seconds after turning it off*

I stopped the truck after driving home from work and restarted it about ten
times all in a row and each time it restarted fine
however after waiting approx 10 or 15 seconds I get a click or a half crank.
After cooling about 5 minutes, it will restart after several seconds of *normal*
cranking. After about ten minutes it will start right up.

In my beer fogged, amateur mind, that could mean that alot of the potential
causes could be eliminated. But which ones?
warped flywheel? antifreeze gumming things up? bad battery cables? timing?
What do you think that this new information would probably eliminate?

In my own mind ive eliminated hot starter, solenoid, battery, broken wires or
shorts in the harness, alternator.
Remember, I have replaced the starter, battery and solenoid to no avail.

I tightend down the 4 carb bolts to the engine, they didnt seem very tight at
all and the area around the base seemed a little leaky. I have yet to see if
that has made a difference.

Also this weekend I will take it to friend who can play with the timing etc., I
dont know how.
Appreciate any feedback.


Thanks for all your help and tips so far!...

Hi,
About a week ago, someone wrote in and told us that they had the same
problem. After many replacements, they found that it was simply the ground
of the starter to the block. After cleaning the surfaces, the problem went
away.
(snip) when a head gasket leaks it can transfer anitfreeze into the
piston and rings. This buildup will cause the rings to tighten when hot
make the engine turn over slowly. When cold, it will turn over fast enough
to start. (snip) If there
are any other explanations out there, lets here them. I'd like to
personnally put this thing to rest!

Good,
Someone else reported in that vaporizing gas can cause hot starting
problems. The other possibilities are a bad ground and antifreeze buildup
in the ring grooves. Thats good. If anyone else had a solution that you
know had positive results, please pass them on. If we look at the
suggestions above, I think we can sepatate them into two catagories.

Hot starting- slow turn over Hot starting- normal turn over
antifreeze buildup Vaporizing fuel
Bad ground at starter??? Bad ground at starter???

If the guy that experienced the ground problem would report in and let me
know if it turned over slow or normal, I can put it in the proper column.

A final note about the leaky thermostat housing:
It stopped leaking.
My tips for people searching the archives are: use a string tied around the
thermostat and pulled thru the housing to hold the thermostat tight against the
housing to prevent it from slipping between the housing and motor causing major
leak. (Make sure the string can be removed easily afterward). If a piece of
string gets stuck on there you probably dont have to worry about it.
Also if after you have the thermostat housing installed and experience a few
drips, leave it like that for a couple days because the heat from the motor will
usually tighten your gasket up and stop the leak. Also you MIGHT want to put
some silicone in the bolt holes
because those can leak too. And finally, you dont have to have a thermostat at
all if you dont want one. But someone told me you wouldnt have heat in the
winter.

John Turpel


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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 10:04:06 -0500
From: Johannes Fluetter
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/questions from the "new guy"

Hey. I'm new to the list, so I'm a bit "unknowledgeable". I bought a '72 F250
(2wd) with a 390 2bbl in October and have been slowly nursing her back to
health, have a few questions for you guys.

1. First of all, the transmission code says this is truck has a Dana 60. When
a friend (and fellow Ford pickup owner) heard this, he visibly drooled on
himself. What is he trying to tell me?

2. Can I get any FE series cast iron 4bbl intake and throw it on here? Any
suggestions?

3. Anybody have a mint condition grill and inserts laying around that they want
to sell?

Thanks!

John Fluetter
johanf ionet.net



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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 11:15:57 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/questions from the "new guy"

Johannes Fluetter wrote:
>
> Hey. I'm new to the list, so I'm a bit "unknowledgeable". I bought a '72 F250
> (2wd) with a 390 2bbl in October and have been slowly nursing her back to
> health, have a few questions for you guys.
>
> 1. First of all, the transmission code says this is truck has a Dana 60. When
> a friend (and fellow Ford pickup owner) heard this, he visibly drooled on
> himself. What is he trying to tell me?
>

Don't know. My fathers 69 F-250 had a dana 60 (only 18 spline), and all
the 70's F-250's did also, as far as I know.

OX
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 10:30:01 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More hot starting but leaky thermostat housing fixed itself

>I will address it further this weekend. I am leaning towards the carb perc
>scenario
>because sometimes I do smell gas and sometimes it behaves as though its mildly
>flooded.
>Also I found out something else...
>
>*The truck will restart fine hot as long as I restart it before roughly 8
>seconds after turning it off*
>
>I stopped the truck after driving home from work and restarted it about ten
>times all in a row and each time it restarted fine
>however after waiting approx 10 or 15 seconds I get a click or a half crank.
>After cooling about 5 minutes, it will restart after several seconds of
>*normal*
>cranking. After about ten minutes it will start right up.
>

The gas and such points to a carb related scenario, but if all you get is a
click or half crank, that would point to a battery/grounding issue ... if
the motor turns over but will not start while hot, then you are probably
not getting the fuel in. If the motor doesn't turn over, then its probably
an electrical problem. The reason I say this is because the motor starts
fine just after its shut off (does it turn easy or hard ?), but then it
won't turn over even, that's likely an electrical component getting some
extra heat.

Could be any number of things ... lets look at the heat as you are driving
... the radiator will have a lot coming out of it, as the coolant passes
through and keeps the motor from collecting heat ... the air in the engine
compartment is almost certainly swirling around like mad since the fan is
blowin and the truck is likely moving as well. This will allow more heat
to radiate out of the things like starters and exhaust manifolds and
everything. Then when you shut the truck off, the heat suddenly has no
where to go and seeps through everything evenly, the fan's not spinnin the
air anymore either, so not as much heat can be radiated out, so for a
certain period of time after the truck has been shut off it appears to get
warmer (its actually just equalizing temps all the way through it) it
sounds like this additional heat is enough to kill your starter or
solenoid, or something ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 08:31:05 -0700
From: Brett Withers
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Taillights/brakelights

>
>Need a little help. Drivers side brake light will not work on my '78 when
>the lights are one. Works fine when light are off. Not so good at night!
>Checked the bulb, brake switch on the brake pedal, all connections I was
>able to find. Circuit seems fine. Since the brake light is actually a
>different filament than the tail light what part of the circuit is
shorting?
>
RBW
>'65 F100 352 police interceptor
>'74 302
>'78 351
>
|
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 10:55:38 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Taillights/brakelights

>>Need a little help. Drivers side brake light will not work on my '78 when
>>the lights are one. Works fine when light are off. Not so good at night!
>>Checked the bulb, brake switch on the brake pedal, all connections I was
>>able to find. Circuit seems fine. Since the brake light is actually a
>>different filament than the tail light what part of the circuit is
>shorting?
>>

This may sound REALLY dumb, but are you sure you put the lights in the
right way ? If you put them in wrong, then both filaments will light up.
A friend of mine did this on a ponti*c and I about rearended him the next
day 'cause he slowed down more for a corner than I thought he was going to
... I've even seen professional mechanics put them in backwards once in a
while, pull it out and note which side has the higher pin on the side and
then line that up with the shorter groove in the socket ... since you've
checked everything else, might try this. Otherwise I'd go back to chasing
ground wires.

Oh yeah, the ones with them in backwards are easy to pick out driving on
the street, they have one brake light that looks like its on all the time
... gets to be a real problem when the other one is burned out!


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 08:00:08 +0000
From: Matthew Schumacher
Subject: FTE 61-79 - tuning my new 390

Ford Owners,

I just put a new 390 in my 76 F-150 and am having a hard time getting it
to run right. The truck doesn't have near the power or response that it
should for being a fresh big block. When I get on the gas the truck
hesitates before responding and it seems gutless. At first I thought it
was timing, so I looked up the timing spec in my ford bible (the oem
sticker is gone) and set it to 6 degrees. This made the truck run
worse, it seems to run better when I set the timing by ear. I should
note that the truck has a new distributor, coil, wires, plugs, and fuel
pump.

One other problem I am having is it runs very hot. The fiberglass piece
that funnels the air flow from my fan to my radiator is missing, is this
a important piece that I should track down? Or should the truck run ok
without it?

Thanks for the help....

schu

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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 11:39:52 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - tuning my new 390

>I just put a new 390 in my 76 F-150 and am having a hard time getting it
>to run right. The truck doesn't have near the power or response that it
>should for being a fresh big block. When I get on the gas the truck
>hesitates before responding and it seems gutless.

Technically breaking in a new motor you won't want to hit it that hard
anyway, but we'll assume you've had a proper break in procedure done
already ...

At first I thought it
>was timing, so I looked up the timing spec in my ford bible (the oem
>sticker is gone) and set it to 6 degrees. This made the truck run
>worse, it seems to run better when I set the timing by ear. I should
>note that the truck has a new distributor, coil, wires, plugs, and fuel
>pump.
>
Timing by ear is okay, depends on the cam too though, if your cam is hotter
than stock you're going to want more than 6 or 8 degrees. I just put a 390
in my truck and it has a much heavier cam than stock, I set the timing
around 10 or 12 degrees and its running great on pump gas. Be sure your
carb is right, not leaned way out or creating a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak
is actually very likely if you just put the motor in, check all the vacuum
fittings again and be sure they are plugged or have hoses hooked at both
ends ... my motor stumbled a lot on the low side, then I remembered I'd
left a hose off and forgot to plug the hole for it. You might also stick a
vacuum gauge on and see what kind of vacuum you're getting, this is a good
way to tune the carb up right ..... adjust the carb for maximum vacuum,
also set the idle as low as possible while doing this ....

>One other problem I am having is it runs very hot. The fiberglass piece
>that funnels the air flow from my fan to my radiator is missing, is this
>a important piece that I should track down? Or should the truck run ok
>without it?
>
Hot with the other problems you speak of would say lean to me ... maybe
your carb isn't bolted down tight or something is creating a large vacuum
leak ???

Specific areas to check :
brake booster for power brakes, might be on back of carb
PCV not hooked up or not hooked up properly
EGR, especially if blocked off
Vacuum tree on manifold.

Hope this helps out ...
Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 11:54:38 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - tuning my new 390

Matthew Schumacher wrote:
>
> Ford Owners,
>
> I just put a new 390 in my 76 F-150 and am having a hard time getting it
> to run right. The truck doesn't have near the power or response that it
> should for being a fresh big block. When I get on the gas the truck
> hesitates before responding and it seems gutless. At first I thought it
> was timing, so I looked up the timing spec in my ford bible (the oem
> sticker is gone) and set it to 6 degrees. This made the truck run
> worse, it seems to run better when I set the timing by ear. I should
> note that the truck has a new distributor, coil, wires, plugs, and fuel
> pump.
>
> One other problem I am having is it runs very hot. The fiberglass piece
> that funnels the air flow from my fan to my radiator is missing, is this
> a important piece that I should track down? Or should the truck run ok
> without it?
>
> Thanks for the help....
>
> schu
>

New engines are sometimes sluggish because everything is new inside and
generates more heat. As time goes by, it'll free up and cool off. You
should definatly find and install a shroud. It helps bring air through
the radiator.
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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 10:28:29 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine swap

It's not. They're both considered small blocks.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bas van der Veer
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, June 03, 1999 5:19 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap


>
>But the 400 and 351M are the exact same blocks. If only the crank is
>different, why would the 400 be a big block and the 351M small?
>Only the 351W is (slightly) smaller.



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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:50:53 EDT
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ground

I've got a 64 and had the same problem . I had to run (2) ground wires , 1 to
the engine and 1 to the fender well . No more problems.......
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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:56:00 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - tuning my new 390

schu wrote...

>
> One other problem I am having is it runs very hot. The fiberglass piece
> that funnels the air flow from my fan to my radiator is missing, is this
> a important piece that I should track down? Or should the truck run ok
> without it?
>
............

The "fiberglass piece that funnels air from fan to radiator" is a fan
shroud, and yes, it is very important for drawing outside air into the
engine compartment when the truck is not moving forwards (rush hour
traffic). I would do whatever it takes to get a fan shroud installed before
risking overheating a new engine.


Danger
danger csolutions.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/danger




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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 12:19:33 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/questions from the "new guy"

> Hey. I'm new to the list, so I'm a bit "unknowledgeable". I bought a '72
F250
> (2wd) with a 390 2bbl in October and have been slowly nursing her back to
> health, have a few questions for you guys.
>
> 1. First of all, the transmission code says this is truck has a Dana 60.
When
> a friend (and fellow Ford pickup owner) heard this, he visibly drooled on
> himself. What is he trying to tell me?
>.........

Isn't the axle code what you should be looking at? Dana 60's aren't all
that special, but if it's a 2 piece case (Powerloc Posi?), I'd drool on
myself too.

...........
>
> 2. Can I get any FE series cast iron 4bbl intake and throw it on here?
Any
> suggestions?
>..........

Wouldn't it be a good idea to increase the exhaust flow along with an
intake conversion?

..........
> 3. Anybody have a mint condition grill and inserts laying around that
they want
> to sell?
>
........

Doh!,... When installing my new 390 4bbl yesterday (was 360 2bbl when I
started), I damaged the best grill I've ever seen on a 69 F250. It's amazing
how one little tiny ding in the chrome can effect a person.


Danger


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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 16:28:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford76 webtv.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 69 Head :-))

- --WebTV-Mail-712784211-7687
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Sorry if I sound green but what is more desirable about them, I thought
my head(s) was pretty good. I know someone with a 69 block doing nothing
and until now we both thought it was average. TIA

Julia MacLaren
76 F250
460
Hollied


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From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
To: "'61-79-list ford-trucks.com'"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:40:58 -0400
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Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

Stoney or anyone in the Adrian, Michigan area....autoparts guy has 69,
Lincoln Continental with 460 with..........CJ heads he wants to sell (whole
car). Sorry, didn't ask price since I wasn't in a positon to buy it but if
anyone is "seriously" interested I'll ask. This car is faded but in good
shape, no visible rust. He was told they were CJ's but he's not sure
himself. 69 heads in any case are the desireable ones so the heads alone
would be worth persuing this if you really like 460's :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I called jasper for the price on a reman
> >460, and it was $1300, i got it re-done for about $1000, with all the
> >accessories on it...
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 15:33:43 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 69 Head :-))

> Sorry if I sound green but what is more desirable about them, I thought
>my head(s) was pretty good. I know someone with a 69 block doing nothing
>and until now we both thought it was average. TIA
>
No problem askin these questions, we like easy ones :)

Generally 69 is considered the best overall year for motors because this is
one of the last years you can find without all the emissions on it. It
also is generally higher compression than the following years. 69 and 70
are considered great years for motors because of this. Again this is a
general assumption and some motors might not adhere to this as well as
others, but the 351W and 429/460 are all considered to follow this quite a
bit... I can't give you specifics unfortunately, but hopefully this'll give
you some idea what to expect from the others ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 16:56:40 -0700
From: Brett Withers
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE intake manifold

Hey anybody out there got a line on a factory aluminum 4V intake for a
352-390 FE? I saw one on a friends truck back in NC. I'm also looking for
a set of cast iron headers for 427 S.O.. I know this stuff is kinda odd
but the pickins'' are slim up this way.
RBW
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 20:20:47 -0400
From: Joe Updegrove
Subject: FTE 61-79 - torque specs

Trying to get the old ride back. I'm looking for torqe specs for the axle
bushings and radius arm bushings for a '65 F100. Can anyone help me?
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Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 21:23:46 -0500
From: "Eric Washburn"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C6 identification

Is there any way I can get some info on this C6 I have.
The ID tag reads exactly like this: PHB R
D00T J30B


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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 21:37:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: loustrk ix.netcom.com (louis sirio)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot Starting

I'm the guy who experienced the grounding problems
and let me tell you, the motor would ALWAYS crank slow.
Just like a dead battery, and if I tried for too long before
letting it cool, I would get the clicking sound known for a
dead battery. And after a while, It did kill my battery.
Hope this info helps. And thanks again for bringing
to light, a lot to answers to a very common problem. Some
members of my truck club will thank you for this.
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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 22:52:36 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Final Dizzy Update. Timing Specs

In a message dated 6/4/99 5:53:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wish iastate.edu
writes:


screw (if you have one). A higher idle means the motor is running better,
well getting more power anyway, this is usually a good thing... set it
without the vacuum hooked up, actually set everything without it hooked up
and then plug in the advance....some tune the carb with the advance hooked
up, some without ... your idle shouldn't really change all that much when
you hook up the vacuum port, unless you're forgetting to plug it while you
set things ...
>>
I second that!!!
Burt Hill Kennewick Wa 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 00:48:41 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Taillights/brakelights

i just ran into a very similar situation on a 69 mustang i restored, one
brake light would not work, but that blinker worked and the parking light
worked, i changed the turn signal switch and it cured the problem,....

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