61-79-list-digest Thursday, January 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 019



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dash repair kits (Armor All)
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust/oil
Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice
FTE 61-79 - Time for a Portland/Vancouver meet
FTE 61-79 - Re:Pushrod Order
FTE 61-79 - Resistor Wire
Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
FTE 61-79 - Remanufactured Engines
FTE 61-79 - Remanufactured Engines

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:57:25 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dash repair kits (Armor All)

i had an old painter to tell me to clean vinyl with a grease & wax remover,
and when ready to dye, put laquer thinner in a paint gun and mist the vinyl
with it and then immediately spray the dye on. he says the thinner actually
melts the vinyl and then when dyed it impregnates into the material. i've
never tried it, but it sounds logical.

jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 00:10:29 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

what type of rings is in the engine? chromoly rings take longer to seat, but i
think 4500 miles is more than enough. you don't mention smoke so i assume
there is not any. i have had two weird experiences with new engines. first one
the cam wiped a lobe on the intake valve, the piston acted like a syringe and
sucked oil in the cylinder, sounds weird but it happened, next one sucked oil
up in the intake, past the improperly seated gaskets. the oil past the gaskets
made very little smoke, almost undetected, the only way i knew it was driving
at night and seeing it through approaching cars headlights. the cam deal made
plenty of smoke and eventualy a stream of oil ran out the exhaust pipe.

jeff grant



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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 00:21:41 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust/oil

stick your nose in the smoke and see if it has an oil smell, don't overdo it
just a quick sniff.
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 00:27:59 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice

i would like to here other testimonials on synthetic oil, i just put it in my
truck, i have put about 150 miles on it so far and can't tell any difference,
everyone tells me to check the fuel mileage before and after.

jeff grant
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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2015 22:19:05 -0800
From: "Jacques and Barbara DeKalb"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Time for a Portland/Vancouver meet

I think that if we are going to have a club, let's get a booth at the swap
meet, get together there, promote the new club and sign up some new members
at the same time. BTW, we have truckloads of sunshine over here, maybe I
could bring some with me.

Jacques, Bend, Ore
"Mostly crewcabs"



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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 00:37:25 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Pushrod Order

Also, the factory reccomended procedure for taking slack out of the
lifter preload was to use longer pushrods at the locations where the
slack existed. Some engines got this under warranty, others over time,
so it's a good idea to keep them in order and check them out. It's also
a good idea to check the preload when you are disassembling, in case you
need to add some longer pushrods of your own.
>
> Bill Beyer writes: >>Is there something about FEs that requires the pushrods to
> be put back in the same locations?
>
> No. It is not specific to the FE. This applies to any engine. Anytime you are
> reusing the same cam/lifters, you need to insure that the pushrods and lifters
> remain in the same location. If you are installing new cam and lifters, then it
> should not matter.
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 00:41:44 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Resistor Wire

I think they reduce the voltage to the coil.

> I agree, these wires were too long to be fuse links.
> Any idea just what an ignition ballast resistor does?
>
> My harness had two of these, unless they were two loops of
> the same wire.
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:49:12 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

Michael Linnane wrote:
>
> Recently the 352 in my 1967 F-250 Camper Special developed some serious
> problems. While driving down the interstate it overheated and started to
> make a LOUD knocking sound. I pulled over immediately and let the engine
> cool down then removed the thermostat. But it was too late and now I have a
> serious knocking problem in the lower part of the engine. I can get a
> remanufactured 352 long block for about $1500.00 or I can have the 352 that
> is in it rebuilt for $1000.00. Can I trust the remanufactured engines sold
> at local autopart stores or should I have the one in it rebuilt? I would
> really like to here from anyone who has had good or bad luck with these
> remanufactured long blocks.
>

I've asked myself this a couple of times, and both times I've ended up
using local shops to rebuild. Of course, this doesn't always guarentee
success, but at least you have someone to go pound on if things do go
wrong (and things can and will go wrong either way). On one hand, the
volume rebuild shops have the volume and steady work to offer fairly
good prices, but I believe their work to be somewhat questionable. You
can do a lot of stuff wrong inside an engine, it will work a long time.
Because of this, I suspect volume shops do a bare minimum of work on
the engines. Also, they start out with a core of questionable
background,
for example when I've considered this it was due to extensive failures
(cracked heads, blocks, etc). But also, you can't stay in business for
too long by selling absolute junk and standing behind it either. The key
here would be to ask around at some shops that do engine transplants,
they probably have good recommendations.

Choosing a local machinist is a hit or miss proposition also, as I am
in the middle of getting through. There are probably a lot more
references available here if you have several friends into rebuilding/
modifying cars. I just had an inept, scatterbrained, dishonest machinist
run me through a wringer, and I'm making SURE that he gets no business
from anybody I know - I don't care if they are , Ni$, or VeeDubb
fans, I'l steer them away from this guy. How did I choose him? Well, he
is a friend of a friend, and I played softball with him, he seemed to be
OK and I figured he was better than someone I didn't know at all. Figure
again. I now know of a local, decent shop, and have had him clean up
some of the first guys mess. I found him after asking around at work.

Good Luck, you have a tremendous resource here, so use it!
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 01:10:50 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Remanufactured Engines

If you go in the back room of the parts store and see the cores they're
rebuilding it might give you pause. They've all been hot, some are just
shot, some were clunkers when new. If you have an engine that's just
tired and you know it's history, it's better to rebuild it. Yours has
been hot, but it's still running, and that's good iron they're working
with. It would be worth getting it machined back to health by a good
machinist, and paying the best engine builder (make it clear it's going
in a truck and needs to be smooth and quiet) in your town to put it
together. It won't cost that much more, if any at all. You are paying
dear for that reman warranty, don't let anyone kid you.

I've seen very poor inspection and workmanship (and very crude machine
work) in quite a few of the Marshall engines, we've put them in for
people and ended up with an oil pan full of calf-s**t for our trouble.
We have two to pull back out right now that made it for six months.
Can't say much about Jasper.

My vote is for the hometown hero.

> Recently the 352 in my 1967 F-250 Camper Special developed some serious
> problems. While driving down the interstate it overheated and started to
> make a LOUD knocking sound. I pulled over immediately and let the engine
> cool down then removed the thermostat. But it was too late and now I have a
> serious knocking problem in the lower part of the engine. I can get a
> remanufactured 352 long block for about $1500.00 or I can have the 352 that
> is in it rebuilt for $1000.00. Can I trust the remanufactured engines sold
> at local autopart stores or should I have the one in it rebuilt? I would
> really like to here from anyone who has had good or bad luck with these
> remanufactured long blocks.
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 01:17:16 -0600
From: George Ramsower
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Remanufactured Engines

I usually don't drop much mail here, but I do read all of it. I do have
a little experience here in regards to purchasing a remanufactured
engine.
My choice has always been to just get a remanufactured engine for the
street. They are inexpensive and easy to install. The only trick is..
just as the questions posted here indicate, is to find a motor builder
that does quality work.
If you have not purchased an engine before, then it is very difficult
to trust one when you don't know how good the parts and workmanship are.
I have heard horror stories from garage mechanics about engines with
different pistons in the same block, and rod bolt loose.. etc..

So what I have done, when in a new area, is go around to several
garages and ask them who they recommend I get an engine from. These
people are usually very helpfull when given a chance.

I have very little experience with Ford products, but when I did my 78
F150, I had a seriously worn out 351M, (and it does stand for Midland.
Ford called it that, but over the years, they gave up and accepted the
"Modified" nominclature for clarity.).
I selected from the suggestions and bought a short block from an outfit
in Austin, Texas. Can't remember the name now. I had the heads special
built in Marble Falls, TX. The short block I turned in was a 351m but I
exchanged it for a 400. That cost an extra $25. That's the best deal I
have ever seen. Fifty cubic inches for twenty five dollars.

Now, on mine I tossed the stick and put in a Comp Cam and lifters and a
Performer manifold, w/Qjet carb. I put this together about four years
ago, and now I have a little over 50k on it. I drive it hard, sometimes
pull heavy loads and it never chokes or gags.
So it never hurts to check around. The short block was $307 without the
pump and lifters. The head work was a little over $200.
Long blocks are more expensive, because they come with all the things
that you want to change out if you want to get a little more power from
it.
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