61-79-list-digest Thursday, June 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 189



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - FE Clutch
Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#
Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN# (correction)
Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN# (correction2)
FTE 61-79 - wheel bearing grease
FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings, spindle bearings, hubs etc......
FTE 61-79 - 360/390 flywheel differences
Re: FTE 61-79 - wheel bearing grease
FTE 61-79 - ISBN #
RE: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 flywheel differences
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 flywheel differences
FTE 61-79 - Was Cheap Engines / Now Lincoln 460's
Re: FTE 61-79 - 352/360/390 flywheel differences [or lack thereof]
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel
FTE 61-79 - RE:Help! Wont start when hot now carb percolation
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 rebuild book
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#
Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#
FTE 61-79 - found '66 chrome grill
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
FTE 61-79 - All Ford show and swap meet, Hillsboro, OR
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
FTE 61-79 - JB Weld
FTE 61-79 - 302 won't start
Re: FTE 61-79 - JB Weld
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 rebuild book
Re: FTE 61-79 - JB Weld
FTE 61-79 - dual diaphram to single diaphram
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rims
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap
FTE 61-79 - spark plug wires
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
Re: FTE 61-79 - 6 Lug Rims
Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Final (Hopefully) dizzy update
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford Club Wagon Van 3/4 ton
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Gas Mileage
Re: FTE 61-79 - books on rebuilding a 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Gas Mileage
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2v adjustment
FTE 61-79 - Re: Direct Injection
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - dual diaphram to single diaphram
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange
Re: FTE 61-79 - found '66 chrome grill

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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 02:10:12 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Clutch

"The 360 flywheel has a smaller bolt pattern for the pressure plate.

My next project will be to replace my 360 flywheel/clutch/pressure
plate with a 390 setup, as a fresh 390 combined with Powerloc Posi can
roast a clutch in a jiffy. If I'm going to roast something, I'd rather
it be the tires as they are much easier to change than a clutch."

The bolt pattern on the flywheel is different because of clutch
diameter,not engine size.You probably have a 11 1/2" clutch now,and
would like to put in a 12".You need to carefully check clearance
in the bellhousing for the bigger clutch.I don't think it will
fit.
BTW I have a 428,35" tires and trac-locks front and rear and my
11 1/2" clutch has over 100k miles on it and still performs fine.
A few years back (maybe more than a few)I used to have a nasty habit
of leaving drivelines and u-joints in the street,but I never had any
problem with the 11 1/2" clutch.
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 07:51:33 -0400
From: "Gayland Crutchfield"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#

Tim.,
ISBN stands for "International Standard Book Number." - Helps organize and
give every book
a specific code. Take this number to your bookstore (and/or title) and
they'll look it up.
Also you can search an online bookstore like amazon.com with the ISBN
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/subst/search/isbn.html/002-7195360-0658827
and find your book (perhaps)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0895860708/qid%3D928410970/002-719536
0-0658827
good luck!
Crutch '59 F1-00, '79 F-150

>Hi,
>Someone said that Steve Christ has a good book on how to rebuild FE's.
>They said his ISBN# is 0-89586-070-8. What does that mean and how does one
get the book.
>
>Tim, 66F100, 352, SWB, P/S, and O/D
>
>
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>

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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:12:08 -0400
From: "Gayland Crutchfield"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN# (correction)

...change that second link to....
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0895860708/qid%3D928412297/002-719536
0-0658827



>Tim.,
> ISBN stands for "International Standard Book Number." - Helps organize and
>give every book
>a specific code. Take this number to your bookstore (and/or title) and
>they'll look it up.
>Also you can search an online bookstore like amazon.com with the ISBN
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/subst/search/isbn.html/002-7195360-065882
7
>and find your book (perhaps)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0895860708/qid%3D928410970/002-71953
6
>0-0658827
>good luck!
>Crutch '59 F1-00, '79 F-150
>
>>Hi,
>>Someone said that Steve Christ has a good book on how to rebuild FE's.
>>They said his ISBN# is 0-89586-070-8. What does that mean and how does
one
>get the book.
>>
>>Tim, 66F100, 352, SWB, P/S, and O/D
>>
>>
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>>
>
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>

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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:21:44 -0400
From: "Gayland Crutchfield"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN# (correction2)

......OK...patience expired....the link is wrapping so you can't just click
on it.....
but I think you get the idea............

>...change that second link to....
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0895860708/qid%3D928412297/002-71953
6
>0-0658827
>
>
>
>>Tim.,
>> ISBN stands for "International Standard Book Number." - Helps organize
and
>>give every book
>>a specific code. Take this number to your bookstore (and/or title) and
>>they'll look it up.
>>Also you can search an online bookstore like amazon.com with the ISBN
>>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/subst/search/isbn.html/002-7195360-06588
2
>7
>>and find your book (perhaps)
>>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0895860708/qid%3D928410970/002-7195
3
>6
>>0-0658827
>>good luck!
>>Crutch '59 F1-00, '79 F-150
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>Someone said that Steve Christ has a good book on how to rebuild FE's.
>>>They said his ISBN# is 0-89586-070-8. What does that mean and how does
>one
>>get the book.
>>>
>>>Tim, 66F100, 352, SWB, P/S, and O/D
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>
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>>
>
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>

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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 07:49:42 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - wheel bearing grease

>> I had a thirty year old can of Quaker State Grease. Best stuff I
ever saw. Haven't seen anything I liked as much since. It was just as you
described stringy stuff.

I still have a can, na na na :-)

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http//www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:06:37 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings, spindle bearings, hubs etc......

Well, the data is in and the prognosis is very good but.........$221.00
later we have lift off....:-( My right front wheel bearings, hub, hub
internals, spindle, rotor, spindle nuts, springs, brake pads and......are
trashed!#$%^%$$# . Not a sound, not a squeak, not a
wiggle.....NADAAAAA?????

I'm dirving for the last few weeks wondering why my steering seems to be a
tad looser than normal but no noises, not even intermittant, brakes work
fine, no pulling etc.. Suddenly, I'm on my way to work, about 1/2 mile from
the house and it feels like I just hit a big mud puddle and then the
squealing begins, like an injured pig, loud, raukous, SCARRY! Then it stops
and then it pulls and squeals again and then it stops and then.......finally
get turned around, park the truck and head out in the bird.

Last night, got home and immediately started pulling the wheel off but first
put the truck on the typical shop hoist everyone has in his pole barn and as
I lift the truck the wheel DROPS??? about 3" or so and hangs there like a
sack of grain draped across a fence
post.......Oh........my.........Gooooooooood!

Well it was trashed so bad I couldn't get the inside spindle nut off but the
rotor would pull far enough away to get the spindle flange nuts off to pull
the whole assy together and......trash the whole assy together.....it's
still together, sort of :-( WHAT A MESS!

1..Hub $59
2..Lockouts $79
3..Wheel bearings $40 ($20/wheel)
4..Seals $10 ($5/ea, American made))
5..Rotor $27
6..Bendix brake pads $24
7..Wheel lugs $5
8..Wheel lug nuts $5
9..Grease $2
10..Spindle bearings (needles) $10 with seals
11..New spindle nut wrench (broke the teeth off)
12..New grease gun nozzle $?
13..Spindle $? (forgot to ask)
14..Steering arm $? (too scared to ask)

Had a hub and spindle so didn't buy them and needles were pretty decent so
didn't get them either but meant too (fogot) don't you hate it when you
leave your list at home??#$%%$# . It's all going back together nicely and
will be back up tonight if I can find a new spindle wrench locally.

WHAT I LEARNED FROM ALL THIS:

A few months ago I heard a little tiny, distant mouse squeak when starting
out cold from rest and it went away after rolling a ways. I took the tire
off and manually felt the hub for any indications of trouble and found none
and could not get a squeak out of it no matter how I turned it so assumed
the residual valve was just doing a better than average job so getting a
little brake squeal. This eventually went away so I forgot about it.....for
a while :-(

SQUEALS MEAN TROUBLE no matter how faint or insignificant they may sound!
Pull the hub and check it out. The time spent is much less than if you let
it self destruct and if I hadn't had the old parts it could have cost me
another $100 easily for hub and spindle and if I couldn't get to the spindle
flange nuts It could have cost me the danged steering arm as well! :-( (I
have one of those too :-))

Preparing to assemble all this stuff I used brake cleaner to get the
residual grease and dirt out that I couldn't wipe out with towels, got
everything squeaky clean. Blasted the surfaces that mate to the steering
arm to make sure there were no high spots and filed off all burres etc. and
then re-cleaned with brake cleaner to make sure no sand was left.

Driving out the old races was pretty easy, just tap around the periphery to
keep it coming evenly until they drop out. I set it on some wood to keep
the hub up off the table. Installing the races I used the old races as
drivers to prevent damage to the edges and it worked very well. I'll keep a
pair just for this purpose :-) Use the large end against the new race so
you can drive it back out if it sticks (I did it the other way and
fortunately it didn't stick too hard to pry out easily but next
time.....:-)) I also used my new dead blow hammer to drive them in to avoid
peening the driver race etc., worked great :-) Very Important....keep the
races very well squared up as you tap them in to avoid distortion or peeling
metal from the hub.

I like the design of the Warn Premiums. They eliminate the need for the
inverse cup at the bearing and the coil spring but not sure about the
aluminum intermediate part in the splines. It's stout but soft so???? BTW,
the standards have the exact same internals but with larger screw holes and
plastic actuator so the locking mechanism is the same strength, just cheaper
actuator parts.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:29:15 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 flywheel differences

I'm pretty sure the flywheels are different between the 360 and 390. Now, the
360 unit will bolt up to the 390 no problem, buy you'll have to use a 360
clutch which is a little smaller than the 390. I ran this setup for years
with no problem.

I went through all this a few years ago....I had ordered a new 360 flywheel
from Ford, and had to return it to get the 390 style so my 390 clutch would
fit.....(long story)...anyway, one thing I did notice with the 390 flywheel
(I think it was heavier than the 360) is, of course, a little more "flywheel
effect" when starting the engine. It seems like while starting if it doesn't
fire right away and after I release the starter, the motor turns a few more
revs than it used to, and then usually starts....

So, I guess what I'm saying is I like the 390 flywheel better.....but the 360
will work as long as you use the 360 clutch!

I imagine someone like Stock Man can verify the part numbers on this....

CJ (Colorado Jeff)
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:30:58 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - wheel bearing grease

In a message dated 6/3/99 8:56:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

> I still have a can, na na na :-)

I'm guessing yours still has content? I still have "the" can.....does that
count for anything????

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm




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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 09:26:07 -0400
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ISBN #

>Someone said that Steve Christ has a good book on how to rebuild FE's.
>They said his ISBN# is 0-89586-070-8. What does that mean and how does one
>get the book.

Don't know about ISBN numbers, but the title of the book is "How to Rebuild
Your Big Block Ford Engine". I got mine from amazon.com for about $18.00.
It is very good reading. It should keep you out of trouble (both while you
are reading it and while rebuilding your engine).

Doss Halsey
'68 F250 Camper Special
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:40:58 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines

Stoney or anyone in the Adrian, Michigan area....autoparts guy has 69,
Lincoln Continental with 460 with..........CJ heads he wants to sell (whole
car). Sorry, didn't ask price since I wasn't in a positon to buy it but if
anyone is "seriously" interested I'll ask. This car is faded but in good
shape, no visible rust. He was told they were CJ's but he's not sure
himself. 69 heads in any case are the desireable ones so the heads alone
would be worth persuing this if you really like 460's :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I called jasper for the price on a reman
> >460, and it was $1300, i got it re-done for about $1000, with all the
> >accessories on it...
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:44:13 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 flywheel differences

I agree...but I think there was some confusion in the beginning of this thread
as to whether it was a standard or automatic. If it's an automatic, the
flexplate (flywheel) should be the same. If it's a standard, the flywheels
should be different to fit the correct sized clutch and pressure plate.






BDIJXS aol.com on 06/03/99 09:29:15 AM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 flywheel differences




I'm pretty sure the flywheels are different between the 360 and 390. Now, the
360 unit will bolt up to the 390 no problem, buy you'll have to use a 360
clutch which is a little smaller than the 390. I ran this setup for years
with no problem.












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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:53:35 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 flywheel differences

Stock 360 flywheel part number from Ford for a 71 F-100 is

C5AZ-6375-K

Ford still carries them but they do cost - don't ask me how I know!!!
Needed it for the balancing job at the machine shop.
Don't know what the 390 flywheel part number is......Thom??
I do have a fairly good flywheel and almost new clutch and pressure plate
if someone needs it.
Email me off list.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu


>So, I guess what I'm saying is I like the 390 flywheel better.....but the
360
>will work as long as you use the 360 clutch!
>
>I imagine someone like Stock Man can verify the part numbers on this....
>
>CJ (Colorado Jeff)
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>
>
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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:57:38 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Was Cheap Engines / Now Lincoln 460's

At 09:40 AM 6/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Stoney or anyone in the Adrian, Michigan area....autoparts guy has 69,
>Lincoln Continental with 460 with..........CJ heads he wants to sell (whole
>car). Sorry, didn't ask price since I wasn't in a positon to buy it but if
>anyone is "seriously" interested I'll ask. This car is faded but in good
>shape, no visible rust. He was told they were CJ's but he's not sure
>himself. 69 heads in any case are the desireable ones so the heads alone
>would be worth persuing this if you really like 460's :-)
>

There is a guy here in town (works for my bodyman) who has a 64 or 65
LINCOLN continental (suicide doors)
and a 460 - C6 in it that would make a cool ride. He is asking 400.oo for
it. I have not seen it
but he says it is very retsorable and rust free.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu


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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:55:06 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 352/360/390 flywheel differences [or lack thereof]

In a message dated 6/3/99 9:37:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, BDIJXS aol.com
writes:

>
> I imagine someone like Stock Man can verify the part numbers on this....
>
And just when I was getting ready to sign-off to actually get some *real*
work done.....this post comes through....Way to go CJ.......:-)

Here is what my MPC indicates on this flywheel subject...

AUTO TRANS. --- 352/360/390
1965-72
All the same--Part No. C5AZ 6375-D


MANUAL TRANS.
1965-67 352 cid and the 1968-72 360 cid
all utilized the same flywheel -- Part No. C5AZ-6375-K with ring gear Part
No. C5AE 6380-J (184 tooth) (the flywheel is described as having (6) 5/16"
pressure plate attaching holes on a 12 3/8" bolt circle).

1968-72 390 cid used Part No. C5AZ-6375-L with ring gear Part No. C5AE
6380-K (176 tooth) the flywheel is described as having (6) 5/16" pressure
plate attaching holes on a 12 7/8" bolt circle.

I cannot speak to later model 1973-76 360/390 as my MPC only covers
through 1972. This does conform the larger pressure plate pattern CJ
referred to.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 09:01:32 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel

>> > The 360 flywheel has a smaller bolt pattern for the pressure plate.

>> Wow, that's weird ... my 360 and 390's with autos have the same flywheels
>> ... 99% sure, i can check tonight (new one for the 390, so old 360 and old
>> 390 in garage) ... maybe its a running change of some sort ...

> Yes, I'm sure the auto's are the same also, but we were talking about a
>flywheel for a manual trans.
>

That was the problem, I was thinking of the other side of the flywheel, I
couldn't understand how the flange on the crank could be a different size.
It would make sense that a 390 would have a larger clutch than a 360, at
least in theory it would make sense. Probably a 10 vs 11 sort of thing huh ?


Thanks for clearin it up
wish

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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 09:10:31 -0500
From: Don Yerhot
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Help! Wont start when hot now carb percolation

I had similar problems with a 351W in my 65. New starter, battery, good
solenoid. When cold always started great, but when hot it was a
different story. The gas would percolate in the carb (as Gary had
mentioned), wasn't hard to figure out because you could smell raw gas
within 5 minutes after shutting it off. Backing off the timing helped
with the difficulty in turning the engine over. What helped the most was
installing a .5 inch plastic spacer between the egr plate and the carb.
It's a Felpro item, just need to install longer studs. BTW, this seems
to be a very common malady with Fords. It happened on a 66 LTD w/ 390
and a 79 Fairmont w/200 that I used to own.

Don
65F250-351W
74F100-351W


>


> I think its cranking normally if slow sometimes. sometimes it will
crank
slow
> then then stop, then a click when I try it again mimicking a dead
battery.
Other
> times it will start out cranking slowly then crank faster and then
start,
> mimicking a flooded carb. Again the starter is only 5 days old a brand
new
> battery and solenoid. I think it could be a hot starter
> though I dont have headers and the problem started suddenly and
happens on
cool
> days too. Can I try wrapping the starter in foil to protect it from
the
heat?
>
> Now about carb perc, what would need to be done to fix that? would
mild
flooding
> be a symptom of carb perc too?
> Can I pull out my spark plugs and see signs of this problem?>>


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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 10:23:16 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

In a message dated 6/2/99 6:36:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:


on
them so I guess the axles are next :-( I could try building them up with my
powder spray kit but still would have no way to grind them back in so I
guess new ones are on my list. >>

If you are referring to the grooves made by the seal in the axle. There is
something you might do before replacing the axles. Fill the grooves with
JB-Weld and smooth it down with a file and Emory-Cloth, it works.
Burt Hill Kennewick Wa 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:20:32 -0600
From: "Jeffery G. Conrad"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines

>At 04:31 AM 6/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
Had to add my 2 cents when I saw "Jasper".


Funny thing, it looks like the Jasper Winston Cup Team had the same problem
with their race motors too... :-)

Jeff Conrad
Software Developer, NxTrend Technology Inc.
jconrad nxtrend.com
v - 719.264.4740 fax - 719.528.1465
At the source of every error which is blamed on the computer,
you will find at least two human errors,
including the error of blaming it on the computer.

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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 07:39:06 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#

The ISBN # is useful for locating books in a bookstore. I believe Amazon.com
and Barnes & Noble.com both have the book. Many auto parts stores have book
sections and you might check on eBay.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Payne
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 8:16 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#


>Forwarded for: theoconnors pop.mindspring.com
>
>Hi,
>Someone said that Steve Christ has a good book on how to rebuild FE's.
>They said his ISBN# is 0-89586-070-8. What does that mean and how does one
get the book.
>



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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 07:40:22 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 rebuild book

How to Rebuild Ford V-8s by Tom Monroe.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stu Varner
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:17 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 rebuild book


>What is the name of the 460 engine book that is suppsoedly the best on
>rebuilding them?
>Thanks!
>
>Stu
>Nuke GM!
>
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>


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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 07:42:39 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines

But not nearly as spectacular.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: j arnold
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines


>Sorry for the length, mentioning Jasper set me off and guess venting this
>way is better than loading this truck with TNT and driving it (or more
>likely towing it) to the factory.



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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 09:47:26 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#

>The ISBN # is useful for locating books in a bookstore. I believe Amazon.com
>and Barnes & Noble.com both have the book. Many auto parts stores have book
>sections and you might check on eBay.
>
Barnes & Noble was where I got mine, had to wait a few days (funny they
don't keep those in the store!) for shipping, I think they said it was an
order direct from the printer because they didn't have any in stock in the
warehouse even, but it was only a couple of days ...that was from the east
coast to the midwest too ... if you're on either coast it might be a touch
quicker ...

The problem with living in the midwest is that most things start on the
coasts so by the time it gets here, its old news to you guys ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:52:51 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#

I just bought one on Ebay. Got it for $14 with shipping inc luded.

- -Ted





"Bill Beyer" on 06/03/99 10:39:06 AM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#




The ISBN # is useful for locating books in a bookstore. I believe Amazon.com
and Barnes & Noble.com both have the book. Many auto parts stores have book
sections and you might check on eBay.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Payne
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 8:16 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#


>Forwarded for: theoconnors pop.mindspring.com
>
>Hi,
>Someone said that Steve Christ has a good book on how to rebuild FE's.
>They said his ISBN# is 0-89586-070-8. What does that mean and how does one
get the book.
>



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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 09:16:44 PDT
From: MARTY COLMAN
Subject: FTE 61-79 - found '66 chrome grill

The other day I was checking out a wrecked 71 to get the p/s off for my
pickup, and low and behold I found what looks like the 66's on the FTE
pictoral(I'm not too familiar with this style). The pickup is a little
banged up but it has a perfect chrome grill, blinkers with chrome trim and a
flawless chrome bumper on it.

The guy wasn't there at the time so I was unable to ask him about it (he may
be saving it for a rebuilder - I don't know) but it doesn't hurt to check.
He has been willing to sell me parts off his other pickups in the past. If
one of you are interested I can call the guy and see what he wants for it
(he usually tells me to make an offer).

He seems to be fair about the price of the other things I've gotten from
him: p/s setup (column, gear box, pump and hoses) - $50, chrome trim
pieces and cargo light - $10. I was pretty happy with the prices.

Let me know if you are interested, I hate to see such a nice chrome grill go
to waste.

Marty


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 18:24:13 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

Please. will anyone tell me what JB Weld is ?

Bill


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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:46:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - All Ford show and swap meet, Hillsboro, OR

Sorry, I hope this isn't too far off topic, but I am desperate.

I lost the information on this event which is this weekend
in Hillboro, OR. Date, times, and directions.

Anyone know about this please e-mail the info. I really
want to go.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:47:50 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

At 11:24 AM 6/3/99 , you wrote:
>Please. will anyone tell me what JB Weld is ?
>
its kind of like an epoxy ... two pieces mix together, a hardener and ???,
it forms a metal like substance that you push and smear across stuff , then
grind it down how you want it to look. I've used it for sealing a gastank
and fixing a couple trim bolts that had stripped on one side in a 'stang.
Dad's seen 'em use it in the head when there was a crack on the outside,
just fill it with jbweld and grind it off flush ... that was a reputable
machine shop too ...

There was some discussion of the stuff a while ago, but I can't get the
archives to find anything on it ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 18:59:54 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - JB Weld

I wonder, would it be possible to fill a tiny hole in an engine cylinder
with JB Weld ? 2/3 down a 302 cylinder...

Bill



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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 12:02:38 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 302 won't start

>>Now the clicking sound. My truck does this occasionally (see specs below)
usually when the battery connnections are loose or the battery is nearing
death. I would check your battery and solenoid and starter connections,
and if the cables are in rough shape, replace them too.

Amen. If your cables are old, replace them. Get the kind that already have
the ends made on to the cable. I have seen plenty of the bolt on cable end s
that are bad. I have also seen plenty of old cables eaten up with corrosion
on the inside of the insulation. They look good from outside, but have a ton
of resistance.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http//www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 10:47:15 -0700
From: jefro netscape.com (Jeffrey Osier-Mixon)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - JB Weld

> I wonder, would it be possible to fill a tiny hole in an engine cylinder
> with JB Weld ? 2/3 down a 302 cylinder...

Be warned, it's a metallic epoxy which means it is probably heat-sensitive.
The label probably shows how much heat it can take. Cylinder temperatures can
get pretty high, so be careful...

Best thing to do in the case of a cylinder is to haul it to a machine shop and
let them fill it for you with good ole honest-to-goodness iron. I'd use JB
Weld on a gas tank, maybe a radiator, but not inside an engine or anywhere it
might take more than a few psi of pressure.

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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:54:53 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 rebuild book

>From: Stu Varner
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 rebuild book
>
>What is the name of the 460 engine book that
>is suppsoedly the best on rebuilding them?
>Thanks!
>
>Stu
>Nuke GM!

Yo Stu-Baby!

The ultimate book for nitty-gritty rebuilding details and parts
interchangeability for both 335 series (351C/351M/400) and 385 series (429/460)
engines is "How to Rebuild Ford V8 Engines 351C-351M-400-429-460" by Tom Monroe,
published by HP Books, ISBN 0-89586-036-8.

Unfortunately, there's all that M-block stuff in there, and you'll start by just
making a couple of phone calls to check on parts and you'll find out how cheap
M-block stuff is, and then one thing will lead to another, and before you know
it you'll be posting M-block questions to the list and seriously contemplating a
"hot rod 400" for that 1950s Effie you're gonna build for your wife, and then
you'll wind up doing penance every night in front of that FE shrine you built
out in the shed next to the '71, and....

Don't say I didn't warn ya!

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 12:57:44 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - JB Weld

At 11:59 AM 6/3/99 , you wrote:
>I wonder, would it be possible to fill a tiny hole in an engine cylinder
>with JB Weld ? 2/3 down a 302 cylinder...
>
It would be possible to fill it ... whether it would hold up or not ...
that I don't know ... your local parts store should have the stuff, its
available as quick dry and something else ... maybe they have a machinable
grade too ... anyone have the web address ??? I know we had a discussion on
it but I can't find the archives ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 13:59:17 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dual diaphram to single diaphram

I have tried to get a rebuilt dual diaphram distributer for my 360 FE and
no luck so I went out and bought a single diaphram for my rebuild.
Question is, To convert from a dual to a single diaphram distributer, I
need to block off the intake (retard) vacuum and run the carb vacuum to the
diaphram?? Sound right??

I think this is correct but I am wanting to be sure. Azie????

Thanks

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu (working again, thanks Tony!)

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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 10:04:44 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange

>Remember when you go to install your distributor, (I think it's like this
>on 385's too, but I know it's like this on FE's) remove the rotor and put a
>few drops of oil "into" the distributor shaft, there's a felt washer in
>there that holds oil for the centrifugal counterweights and upper bushing.
>Most people never do this and that's why distributors fry.

Maybe a stupid question.. but how do I remove the rotor? My manual simply
tells me to "pull it off" - I pulled and pulled, but it won't come off. At
least not without any ballistic amount of force.
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 10:43:23 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rims

True, it usually doesn't do much good if you try to make something look
more than it is. Those little sports cars with 6" exhausts for instance,
look almost pathetic.

>When choosing rims it is important they compliment the vehicle. They
>shouldn't stand out as the major eye catcher.
>And I hate wheels that are twisty and funky looking. You need something
>tastefull and classic looking.

>> Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of crome rims would look
>> really good with a red '62 F100?? Thanks.......


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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 11:10:26 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

>>> Also, when you put the light on to see the timing, remember to pull off
the
>>> vacuum hose to the distributor.
>>This is what everyone (person and book) keeps telling me. But I never saw
>>the vacuum change the ignition timing at static rpm, it only works
>>when you punch the gas. Might as well leave it on.
>If you never see it change you need to have it checked ... there are also 2
>types of vacuum that you can use ... manifold, which will always affect the
>timing, or ported, which will affect it only after the throttle is cracked
>a ways ... from the sounds of it you have ported, though its still a good

I am using a connection which comes straight off the passenger side of the
carburator. If I hold my finger over it, I only feel a vacuum when I punch
the gas. The line was originally routed through some sort of temperature
switch on the "thing" the upper radiator hose connects to. Intake manifold
vacuum was routed there as well. Since there was no vacuum whatsoever
(cold, warm, any rpm) on the other side of the switch I bypassed it. Does
anybody know what this switch is supposed to do? I figured it is something
that reduces emissions at a cold start.

>idea to pull it and plug it, just to be sure that you don't get any leaks
>or anything with it... also if you are having trouble with your truck not
>running right, you might try switching to the manifold vacuum source ...

I tried using my manifold vacuum but that pulls the ignition to about 30
BTDC right at idle, that can't be right.

Unfortunately I do not have the vacuum diagram for this engine. But frankly
the vacuum advance does not seem to be doing a whole lot. If I look at my
timing while cracking open the gas, it only advances after a second or so.
Does anybody know some backyard mechanic type of tests I can do to find out
more about this?



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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 11:18:01 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap

>> not sure what bellhousing the 300 uses either ...
>Same as a Small block (302/351w)

Does anybody know, is the 351M considered a big block?

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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 11:22:46 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - spark plug wires

All,

For a long time I have been struggling with my 351M idling rough. I finally
found out what it was: spark plug wires 5 and 6 touched, causing #6 to
induction misfire #5. So a word of advice, take care in your spark plug
wiring. For the 429/460 these are #7/8 I believe.

Bas.



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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 11:29:58 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

>Not necessarily, the only difference between ported and non ported should
>be idle conditions, everywhere else you will have the same vacuum ...

I thought the vacuum advance is only needed in case you suddenly step on
the gas, it'll temporarily advance the vacuum so it does not hesitate. Then
as the rpm increases the centrifugal thing takes over.


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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 13:33:11 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 6 Lug Rims

>various junk yard excursions. I am interested in larger Ford trucks since
>I own a 64 F500.

What is a F500? Mega duty?

>I have been in the market for a two speed rear axle for

A rear axle that can shift between different gear ratios???

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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 14:06:14 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection

>>>>
>
>Ford is working on this also. One added benefit if direct injection is
>there is no need for a starter. The computer looks at crank position,
>piston position, then sends a shot of gas at the proper cylinder and
>sparks it off. Starts the whole thing a spinning.

But then you need a spark plug as well as an injector? Hmm, I wonder if
aftermarket kits hit the market at some point. I also wonder if old engines
would be able to handle that, or maybe they burn up like with propane.
Where can I learn more about this?

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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 15:29:21 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Final (Hopefully) dizzy update

>using the manifold vac to answer that question, ran much smoother. The

Did you check how much your timing advances? When testing at idle I noticed
the manifold vac advances the timing to about 30 BTDC which makes my engine
(351M/78 bronco) idle almost twice as fast as normal. But then I talked to
my uncle who has the 400M, he says that kind of timing heats up the engine
a lot and stresses the bearings, makes sense. Maybe I should try it and see
what happens. Sigh, it can be so tough to know what is REALLY going on in
an engine. So did you look at the timing?

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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:06:10 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?

>Since my last post on this I have decided that the new master cylinder
>is OK. I looked at it on the bench more carefully. When you push on
>the cylinder fluid initially flows from the back cylinder. Then I feel
>a spring compressing and fluid flows from the front cylinder.
>
>This makes sense to me because the rear shoes need to move some before
>contacting the drums. With this system the fronts won't start braking
>until the rears contact the drums, increasing the pressure in the rear
>system. This way front and rear brakes start applying at the same
>time. Does that sound right?

Actually, no. The front is supposed to start braking first. The front
brakes are hooked up to the rear part of the cilinder, the big reservoir.
Disk brakes require more fluid flow. On the drum brakes the self adjuster
should make sure there is virtually no space between the rear shoes and the
drum.

>The pedal goes to the floor while bleeding. With the motor running it
>is soft until about an inch off the floor and gets hard. If I hold it
>there it does not move further. To my mind this means the MC is good.
>Is this a good assumption?
>> The bronco has the same identical sytem but has some mush even when
>> everything is right but is still pretty firm. I attribute most of
>> this to the dana 44 brake system.

My bronco has the same thing, I hate it. I replaced most of the brake
system by now, and had a professional mechanic look at it but they just
never get firm. Only one caliper, a few metal lines and the rear springs
and drums have not been replaced within the last year. It seems that this
is just the way it is. The only thing I have in mind is to fix the 1/2"
play in my pedal -> booster linkage.

>The truck stopped really well before and the only other thing I
>changed was the proportioning valve so I figured that had to be it.

What are the symptoms of a broken proportional valve?

>Before I did all this work the truck had a disk brake master cylinder,
>no proportioning valve, the lines to the master cylinder were hooked
>up backwards, and the front disks dragged.

I don't know any better than that they're supposed to be hooked up
backwards. (front brakes on rear cylinder)

>Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>> There should be no free play in the pedal/booster linkage but there
>> is in the brake mechanics (shoes/pads etc.) themselve which is what
>> you feel when you start the engine.
>
>So the presence of vacuum in the booster puts enough pressure on the MC
>to take up the slack in the system? I assume that this does not mean
>there is enough pressure to overcome the return springs on the rear
>shoes to bring the shoes out to the drums. True?

He means, if you gently press on the pedal while starting the engine it
goes down. Without the power brakes the gentle touch is not enough to even
work against the springs, but with it you can just engage the pads to the
drum. If you don't press the pedal it should not move when you start the
engine.

If there is any play from the pedal to the booster, you will feel some
slack where the pedal has virtually no resistance, regardless of whether
the engine is running. Only the return spring will keep it up.

If there is play from the booster to the cyl, it will feel the same, but
this should not happen unless somebody fiddled with it already. You can
take the cyl off and extend the booster rod a bit at a time, put the cyl
back on and see if you can push ot on all the way. If you have to bolt it
down the last part, you've gone too far. I did this and it made my brake
shoes smell horrible :)

>Is it possible that the soft pedal is caused by expansion in old rubber
>brake lines? I am considering replacing them next.

My brake lines were all cracked, they had the original '77 tags on them.
But replacing them did not help, other than that now they are probably less
likely to fail at an inconvenient moment.

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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 20:14:09 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford Club Wagon Van 3/4 ton

>Hi there y'all, I'm new to the list...I bought a 77 Ford Club Wagon Van 3/4
>with Cleveland engine. Overall everything is very good, though there are a

Wow, a *van* with a cleveland? Those are high performance engines.

>There would appear to be a vapor lock problem when the outside temperature
>gets up, say, above 80-85 degrees then it starts to lose power and dwindles
>in speed down to around 25-35 mph if I do not try to give it gas (if I do it
>dies, but starts right back up). If I pull into a gas station and, while it
>is running, hold a water hose on the fuel pump for 10-15-20 seconds it's
>good to go for (depending on outside temperature) from a few to several
>miles. Last summer with the exceptionally high heat it was really bad.

It sounds like vapor lock but I can hardly believe that happens at those
kinds of temperatures. My truck has a 351M and last summer I went four
wheeling at 100+ degrees. Everything in the engine compartment got so hot I
could barely touch it - but no problems, other than some coolant loss.

Common solutions for vapor lock are electric pumps. You can put one on the
gas tank to increase overall line pressure and then another one near the
engine. Electric pumps can be placed further away from your engine, and
hence stay cooler. You can also get spacers for the mechanical fuel pumps,
they prevent heat conduction from the engine block. But I am not sure you
can use these, you would have to compensate for the offset. Perhaps
somebody else here knows the details about that.

>Second thing is that while it has two main gas tanks it also has a
>rectangular third, or saddle, tank in between the other two. While this
>might be great for a long trip giving me around a thousand mile range it is
>most peculiar for there is no fill cap, and it would appear that the in and
>out lines are gravity fed from one of the other tanks. There is no way to
>determine how much gas is in it. All dealers and mechanics I've spoken with
>just scratch their heads in amazement. Any ideas?

If it is gravity fed from another tank, the fuel level in both tanks will
be the same in both tanks. You can use the gauge from the other tank. A
thousand miles?! Wow, how much gas do you carry? No wonder it is a 3/4 ton
van :)


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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 20:30:25 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Gas Mileage

>issue of "Four Wheeler". This issue has the first article
>in a series titled, "Project MPG". I don't know about
>y'all, but I would love to improve on my 8 mpg ;^)))

So what does it tell you to do? Drive slower? :)

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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 20:37:00 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - books on rebuilding a 390

>proper care but, I would rather build one from scratch and include things
>like a larger cam (1969 428 CJ/SCJ/Police hydraulic cam specs) and true

What's special about the 460 police? I read about them in my repair manual.
Sounds like something that would even make my 5500lbs bronco go like a
rocket! Are these engines easy to obtain/maintain?



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 20:43:49 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Gas Mileage

>put the ultra team on my truck, and got a mileage jump from 8.5 to 10.1.
Not

What is an ultra team? Fuel injection kit? Is it CA smog legal? My
carburated '78 (fullsize) bronco does about 12 on the freeway. I have done
15 while driving on interstate 5 for a couple of hours close behind a big
semi at a constant 60 mph :)

>bad for a 460 turnin through 4.56 gears. One thing though, today it up and
>quit on me, Im not sure yet if the Jacobs unit is to blame, but I'll let you

Jacobs is one of those triple spark systems?



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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 20:54:26 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2v adjustment

>390 . i rebuilt the carb and the motor cranks and runs good at idle but it
>doesnt want to take the gas when you get on the pedel .The way that i

>You set the idle very well. If you are not getting power then it sounds
like
>the it is not running rich enough when needed and that has nothing to do
with

If your engine is running too lean but the accel pump works it should give
a short (
accel pump by looking down into the carb with the engine off and then
pushing the little rod on the front of the carb. It should pump a
considerable cloud of gasoline vapor. You can measure the fuel level in the
carb really easy, your rebuild kit should include instructions on how to do
this. My motorcraft 2v has to hav the top of the float 31/64" below the top
of the bowl - make that 1/2"; just as if you can set that in 64th of an
inch accuracy.



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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 12:24:26 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Direct Injection

Om Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Dan Lee wrote:
>
> I have started an engine in good condition by:
> 1 Pumping the gas to get some fuel from the
> accelerator pump.
> 2 Opening the throttle.
> 3 Bring the engine to TDC #1 cylinder.
> 4 Rotating the dist. to first close and then open the
> points.
> 5. Try to get the dist. back to correct timing
> quickly.

I know a fellow who runs "track speeders", they are little cars from the
old days that he goes along railroad tracks with his friends on. (After
they make sure there won't be any trains that day) His has a big single
2 cycle engine that he puts into reverse by cutting the ignition,
letting it almost stop, and then moving the manual advance way up and
letting it fire once to get it spinning backwards. I hear old ships
also worked on this principle sometimes.

Birken
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:36:41 -0500
From: "Nate Doelling"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap

nope, it's a small block trying to be a big block 400

Nate

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Bas van der Veer
> Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 1:18 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap
>
>
> >> not sure what bellhousing the 300 uses either ...
> >Same as a Small block (302/351w)
>
> Does anybody know, is the 351M considered a big block?
>
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:49:10 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap

Bas van der Veer wrote:
> Does anybody know, is the 351M considered a big block?

Then Nate Doelling wrote:
>nope, it's a small block trying to be a big block 400

Yo Dudes:

Actually, both the 351M and 400 use the same block. AFAIK, they are considered
small blocks, but clearly they are not related to the 90-degree small block
family of the 221/260/289/302/351W. BTW, the 351C is in the same design family
as the 351M/400, even though it uses a different block and has the same bell
housing bolt pattern as the 90-degree small blocks. (The 351M/400 has the big
block (429/460) bell housing bolt pattern.)

Dave R (M-block devotee)

P.S. Nate, sorry I can't find that choke pull-down spec. I think its about
0.20"-0.25" or so.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 14:59:57 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dual diaphram to single diaphram

>I have tried to get a rebuilt dual diaphram distributer for my 360 FE and
>no luck so I went out and bought a single diaphram for my rebuild.
>Question is, To convert from a dual to a single diaphram distributer, I....


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