61-79-list-digest Thursday, June 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 188



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel
RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot now carb percolation
FTE 61-79 - RE: Help 302 won't start.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot now carb percolation
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
FTE 61-79 - Brakes and wheel cylinders.
FTE 61-79 - Re: Braking issues
FTE 61-79 - Re: Braking issues
FTE 61-79 - Re: won't start when hot
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Help 302 won't start.
FTE 61-79 - Re:Direct Injection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot, also leak from thermostat housing
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6
FTE 61-79 - ISBN#
FTE 61-79 - I need help fast!
FTE 61-79 - 460 rebuild book
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines
FTE 61-79 - Brake line

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:29:46 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel

Doss Halsey asked...

>
> On my 390 build: Is the flywheel (1972 390, NP435 manual transmission)
> different from a 360 (1968) flywheel? If so, how do they differ? I was
> hoping to use the one that is in the truck now.
>
..................

The 360 flywheel has a smaller bolt pattern for the pressure plate.

My next project will be to replace my 360 flywheel/clutch/pressure plate
with a 390 setup, as a fresh 390 combined with Powerloc Posi can roast a
clutch in a jiffy. If I'm going to roast something, I'd rather it be the
tires as they are much easier to change than a clutch.


Danger
danger csolutions.net



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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 16:48:25 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel

>> On my 390 build: Is the flywheel (1972 390, NP435 manual transmission)
>> different from a 360 (1968) flywheel? If so, how do they differ? I was
>> hoping to use the one that is in the truck now.
>>
>..................
>
> The 360 flywheel has a smaller bolt pattern for the pressure plate.
>
Wow, that's weird ... my 360 and 390's with autos have the same flywheels
... 99% sure, i can check tonight (new one for the 390, so old 360 and old
390 in garage) ... maybe its a running change of some sort ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 18:10:53 -0400
From: john.e.turpel bellatlantic.COM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot now carb percolation

Does it crank normally when this happens or is the cranking part of the
problem? If cranking is the problem then the starter is getting too hot,
the engine is getting hotter than you think

I think its cranking normally if slow sometimes. sometimes it will crank slow
then then stop, then a click when I try it again mimicking a dead battery. Other
times it will start out cranking slowly then crank faster and then start,
mimicking a flooded carb. Again the starter is only 5 days old a brand new
battery and solenoid. I think it could be a hot starter
though I dont have headers and the problem started suddenly and happens on cool
days too. Can I try wrapping the starter in foil to protect it from the heat?

Now about carb perc, what would need to be done to fix that? would mild flooding
be a symptom of carb perc too?
Can I pull out my spark plugs and see signs of this problem?



> or if it's a carbed engine you
>could have percolation which dumps fuel into the manifold and causes it to
>buck when firing.

>If it cranks fine but won't catch then it could ba a myriad of things,
>mostly including loose connections, broken (read old rotten) wires etc..


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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 18:12:30 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Help 302 won't start.

It sounds like you have two different problems here. The clue to one is
that when you jiggle the homemade coil harness the problem clears. That is
the problem when the motor spins over but won't start. Rework this
harness, or replace the whole thing with a replacement one. When it spins
but won't spark, pull the coil wire off the dist cap, and see if there is a
spark. If not, then you've found the problem.

Now the clicking sound. My truck does this occasionally (see specs below)
usually when the battery connnections are loose or the battery is nearing
death. I would check your battery and solenoid and starter connections,
and if the cables are in rough shape, replace them too.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:41:27 -0500
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot now carb percolation

I'm certainly no expert, but these guys helped me with a similar problem by
having me re-do the timing. Works like a charm.

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 5:10 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot now carb percolation


>
>
>
>
> Does it crank normally when this happens or is the cranking part of the
> problem? If cranking is the problem then the starter is getting too hot,
> the engine is getting hotter than you think
>
> I think its cranking normally if slow sometimes. sometimes it will crank
slow
> then then stop, then a click when I try it again mimicking a dead battery.
Other
> times it will start out cranking slowly then crank faster and then start,
> mimicking a flooded carb. Again the starter is only 5 days old a brand new
> battery and solenoid. I think it could be a hot starter
> though I dont have headers and the problem started suddenly and happens on
cool
> days too. Can I try wrapping the starter in foil to protect it from the
heat?
>
> Now about carb perc, what would need to be done to fix that? would mild
flooding
> be a symptom of carb perc too?
> Can I pull out my spark plugs and see signs of this problem?
>
>
>
> > or if it's a carbed engine you
> >could have percolation which dumps fuel into the manifold and causes it
to
> >buck when firing.
>
> >If it cranks fine but won't catch then it could ba a myriad of things,
> >mostly including loose connections, broken (read old rotten) wires etc..
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 18:15:19 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

> You're catchin on Bill! The whole brake hose thing with my former employer
> shows that not all parts chimps are on the same branch of the tree ...
> maybe if we get you high enough up there you will be able to answer all of
> our questions off the top of your head :)
>
> Hope you're still enjoying the job, it was fun sometimes and boring as all
> get out others ...
> but seein the customer actually bring the car back after gettin him some
> major parts will always make you feel good.

Taking care of the customer, and helping them find out what they need is
the fun part(hectic though). I already have people calling and asking
for me asking questions. As you all well know I don't lack for the
ability to open my big mouth to give advice. Running a till is dull and
exacting. I'm enjoying the management stuff though. Being "captain of
the ship" you know. I hope to get my own store in a nearby town, but
that might be alot to expect having no retail experience. A few months
and I'll be ready to take one over.


I still miss my old job though.

I'm still looking for 3.73 gears and carriers for my '65 F250 4X4. Dana
60 and 44. Does anyone have any gears laying around?
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:06:09 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brakes and wheel cylinders.

All this talk of brakes and wheel bearings made me go outside today (since
I thought I was going to Richmond today, but didn't end up going) and bleed
my brakes, since they are pulling to one side and the rear seems to leak.
Anyway, I discovered a broken bleed screw and called to find the price of
a new caliper (rebuilt actually) only 10 bucks, and the master cylinder,
which I suspect was the cause of the leak, was only 14 bucks. My pads were
like new and the rotors were ok, so for 35 dollars, I'm going to have a new
brake system essentially. I checked the wheel bearings while under there
and sure enough one side was loose. I took both apart and the bearings
look ok, so I lubed them up and tightened to specs.

The bearing grease I use (and seem to have good luck with) is Coastal brand
Uniplex High Temp Grease, which may be regional to the Southern US or even
North Carolina. I discovered this because hhenever I take apart the
bearings (which I usually check during a brake job) on a Japanese car, the
grease looks like new, even on 15 year old cars had obviously not been
taken apart in quite some time. In fact in my experience the only wheel
bearings on Japanese cars that go out are where the brake drags, heats up
the hub, and burns up the grease. The brand mentioned above most closely
resembles that grease, but if someone can locate the manufacturer of the
OEM Japanese grease (They all use the same grease); that IMHO would be the
absolute best kind to use.

Well the Zone screwed me again and I have to go back and get the bleeder
screws for the master cylinder, but I should be done tonight.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:12:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Braking issues

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
> I've tried every method I've learned about and used special equipment
and
> have never been able to beat the simple gravity system on my 78's.

I am not familiar with gravity bleeding. What would I need and how do
you do it? I was imagining a container of brake fluid hung really high
with a line coming down to a cover clamped on the MC and am now thinking
that might not be a bad way to do it.

> BTW, I used "gasoline" teflon tape, not plumbing tape.

This is new to me also. What is this and where do you get it.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:13:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Braking issues

wish wrote:
> where is the sensor for your truck ? I was thinking
> mine was external to the mc ...

Drum brakes
Follow the lines from the MC down to a block mounted on the
inside of the frame. The switch in in there. At least that
is where mine was.

Disk brakes
The switch is in the proportioning valve between the front
and rear inlet ports.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4


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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:25:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: won't start when hot

Ignition coils can be heat sensitive. Try replacing
the coil.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:12:57 -0400
From: "Ted & Sarah Freeman"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel

Mine were the same as well on the automatic. I don't know about the
standard though. I assumed they were the same. I guess during the
production run they went to a heavier pressure plate setup??? I know the
automatic was the same between a '68 and a '72 cause I've recently made
that swap. '('68 360 and a '72 390)

- -Ted

- ----------
> From: William S Hart
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 5:48 PM
>
> >> On my 390 build: Is the flywheel (1972 390, NP435 manual transmission)
> >> different from a 360 (1968) flywheel? If so, how do they differ? I was
> >> hoping to use the one that is in the truck now.
> >>
> >..................
> >
> > The 360 flywheel has a smaller bolt pattern for the pressure plate.
> >
> Wow, that's weird ... my 360 and 390's with autos have the same flywheels
> ... 99% sure, i can check tonight (new one for the 390, so old 360 and
old
> 390 in garage) ... maybe its a running change of some sort ...
>
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Links
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:23:11 -0400
From: "Ted & Sarah Freeman"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Help 302 won't start.

How long has it been since you've replaced the starter? I've seen starters
do the same thing.

- -Ted

- ----------
> From: George W. Selby, III
> To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Help 302 won't start.
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 6:12 PM
>
> It sounds like you have two different problems here. The clue to one is
> that when you jiggle the homemade coil harness the problem clears. That
is
> the problem when the motor spins over but won't start. Rework this
> harness, or replace the whole thing with a replacement one. When it
spins
> but won't spark, pull the coil wire off the dist cap, and see if there is
a
> spark. If not, then you've found the problem.
>
> Now the clicking sound. My truck does this occasionally (see specs
below)
> usually when the battery connnections are loose or the battery is nearing

> death. I would check your battery and solenoid and starter connections,
> and if the cables are in rough shape, replace them too.
>
> George Selby
> 78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
> IsuzuG prodigy.net
>
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:33:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Direct Injection

I have started an engine in good condition by:
1 Pumping the gas to get some fuel from the
accelerator pump.
2 Opening the throttle.
3 Bring the engine to TDC #1 cylinder.
4 Rotating the dist. to first close and then open the
points.
5. Try to get the dist. back to correct timing
quickly.

Don't try this at home.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 19:41:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: loustrk ix.netcom.com (louis sirio)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot, also leak from thermostat housing

You listed the SAME problems I had with my truck
a few years ago. I answered an e-mail last week for the
same problem. If you don't have headers to close to the starter
and checked your timing, check your connections with a meter just
to be sure. Don't over look the grounding, it will kill your battery,
starter and solenoid. Other than that, I've seen this problem caused
by a warped flywheel, once hot it would be just enough out of alignment
to cause any of your problems. Only seen it once but you never know.
Hope I helped.
Good luck.
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:54:04 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6

In a message dated 6/2/99 7:00:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time, DHenders VT.Edu
writes:


crank. >>

Just thought Id add this. When my brother and I decided to build his 300,
one of the questions was whether or not it was an HD. According to our
Haynes the HD has a forged crank and rods, at least in 84. We were doubtful
it would be, seeings how it was in an F-150, but a quick test revealed it was
forged. Real quick, who knows how to see if a crank is forged or not? Wanna
know? Stand it on end, and tap it. A standard crank will thud, but a
forged, it will ring like the prettiest bell you ever heard.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 21:34:21 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6

In a message dated 6/2/99 9:22:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JUMPINFORD aol.com writes:

> A standard crank will thud, but a
> forged, it will ring like the prettiest bell you ever heard.
>
Thanks for this tidbit. If I am not mistaken the forged one is denser and
weighs more. Who's gonna jump on their scale with the engine parts to
"crank" out more data for the weight page? You guessed it....not me. I
really don't want to take the crank out. Let's face it I really don't want
to take the motor out, but I suspect that after all my griping is over I will
be a happy camper to turn the key and hear that sweet smooth purr again (It
will be what I don't hear *hopefully* that will make me the happiest :-)

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 19:32:14 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel

> >> On my 390 build: Is the flywheel (1972 390, NP435 manual transmission)
> >> different from a 360 (1968) flywheel? If so, how do they differ? I was
> >> hoping to use the one that is in the truck now.
> >>
> >..................

> > The 360 flywheel has a smaller bolt pattern for the pressure plate.
> >
...........

> Wow, that's weird ... my 360 and 390's with autos have the same flywheels
> ... 99% sure, i can check tonight (new one for the 390, so old 360 and old
> 390 in garage) ... maybe its a running change of some sort ...
>
..............

Yes, I'm sure the auto's are the same also, but we were talking about a
flywheel for a manual trans.


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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 21:48:00 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6

In a message dated 6/2/99 6:41:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, TBeeee aol.com
writes:

>

I may be confused, but I just wanna make sure you know that the carnk has to
be bare for this to work. Out of the engine, standing on end.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 22:24:40 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines

also, if you really dig down and dollar for dollar, its about the same or a
little cheaper to have your engine re-done, as long as the heads, block and
crank are in repairable shape. I called jasper for the price on a reman
460, and it was $1300, i got it re-done for about $1000, with all the
accessories on it...

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 04:31 AM 6/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>"Jeff,
>I am not going to tell you that Autozone or any other
>auto store ever sold a bad engine, but I will tell you
>that those places are run by accountants whose
>interest is the Bottom Line, ROI (Return on
>Investment) and Dollar Volume. They are OK for oil and
>filters and new aftermarket parts, but I hesitate when
>I have to purchse something that has been
>remanufactured from any of them.
>
>If your old block and heads are in decent shape take
>it to a local automotive machine shop, where the guy
>whose name is on the door is doing (or at least
>overseeing) the work.etc..."
>
>My sentiments exactly.I have never purchased a "remanufactered"
>engine,but I know two guys who did.
>One bought a "reman" do*#e.It had a cracked block.The other had three
>engines installed in his bl*#!* before he got a decent one.
> Of course thier first mistake was choice of vehicle, but......
>Ask around,Show n' Shines,Cruise Ins etc. are great places to find
>out who does quality work.
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>


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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 22:27:07 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection

yea, if you have a diagnosic computer and a code reader.. I think that
still run on OBD II (on board diagnostic), which takes a special program to
read..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460


At 02:04 PM 6/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Mitsubishi has already a production gas engine with direct injection...
>
>What happens if you are in the middle of nowhere, and the engine fails,
>will it be very easy to fix it yourself ?
>
>Bill
>
>
>
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>


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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 22:43:58 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6

In a message dated 6/2/99 9:52:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JUMPINFORD AOL.COM writes:
>
> I may be confused, but I just wanna make sure you know that the carnk has
to
>
> be bare for this to work. Out of the engine, standing on end.
>

No confusion at all --- I understood how you "tested" the difference :-) The
bottom line here is that I only have a 240. There is no such distinction bw
a 240 LD or 240 HD.

My point about not remove the crank merely reflects my lack of enthusiasm for
the work at hand. I have no intention on testing it. I say that merely to
explain my state of mind not to diminish your input...because for that I am
grateful...This is one of those projects that I could have easily done
without and have at least five other things on my to do list will suffer as a
result. But as I said....when all is said and done I know I will begin to
feel better having undertaken the task. :-)

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 23:16:25 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ISBN#

Forwarded for: theoconnors pop.mindspring.com

Hi,
Someone said that Steve Christ has a good book on how to rebuild FE's.
They said his ISBN# is 0-89586-070-8. What does that mean and how does one get the book.

Tim, 66F100, 352, SWB, P/S, and O/D


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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:26:22 EDT
From: B2455 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I need help fast!

Hi - I have a 1963 Ford F100 step side that I'm fixing up. I have a 6
cylinder [223]. My question is: I want to put a V8 engine in it, and someone
told me to find a 302 for it. Will a 302 bolt up without me having to change
a lot of what I have now? As far as the transmission, I have 3 on the
column. I have an add in a local paper that comes out tomorrow morning asking
for a 292,352, or a 302. Could someone PLEASE e-mail me back and give me
some advise fast [before I buy the wrong thing. All I know is that me fly
wheel has bolt holes 5 inches apart. I hope someone well advise me on what
engine I should be trying to get. PLEASE HELP - Butch B2455 AOL.Com
Thank you
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 23:18:05 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 rebuild book

What is the name of the 460 engine book that is suppsoedly the best on
rebuilding them?
Thanks!

Stu
Nuke GM!

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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 02:08:35 -0400
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines

I called jasper for the price on a reman
>460, and it was $1300, i got it re-done for about $1000, with all the
>accessories on it...
>
>cannandale
>'78 F250 4x4, 460
>
>At 04:31 AM 6/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>

Had to add my 2 cents when I saw "Jasper". My workhorse, an '83 F-250,
460, C6, bit the dust about six months ago. That 460 I had built over six
months and it lasted for 400,000 miles pulling trailers with 6,000 to
12,000 pound loads from Kentucky to Texas and back, 70 to 75 mph with ac
wide open and never a major problem. Then about 5 miles from the house, I
spun a bearing and trashed the whole thing in about a minute and a half.
Last bebuild was bored at 60 over, so I was going to have start from
scratch to replace it.
My thinking? Jasper factory in Indiana, about 75 miles away from home in
northern Kentucky, they could deliver overnight. "Jasper" reputation, I've
always heard good things. Authorized dealer locally could do the swap and
have me running again in 3 days. 6 month, 36,000 mile warranty. Made sense
to me.
Result? Truck in the shop over a month initially, first engine would make
no oil pressure, sent it back, second engine, oil pressure at idle, would
drop to 10 pounds when given throttle. Third engine seemed to be okay. 2
weeks later, back in shop, overheating (under no load) radiator rodded,
still overheating, new radiator. Seemed to be okay. 3 weeks later,
overheated suddenly when dropped a valve. Dealer fed up. Put truck on roll
back, took to Jasper factory and told them to call me when it was fixed
right. Truck at factory for 5 weeks. rep called me and said they had
started over and remanned new engine, balanced and blue-printed since I had
so many problems with it. Picked it up, purred like a kitten. That was 2
months(?) and about 3000 miles ago and guess where it is today? In the
shop. Jumped time or something, don't know, didn't look, just had tow truck
driver take it in. Thoroughly disgusted, won't trust this truck outside of
city limits for a while.
But there is always hope. Sitting on engine stand now is 385 block, been
hot tanked, magnafluxed, and bore checked, will take a .30 over rebore.
Tomorrow I start chasing all threads and bolt holes. Maybe in a few months
I will be able to trust this truck again.
Sorry for the length, mentioning Jasper set me off and guess venting this
way is better than loading this truck with TNT and driving it (or more
likely towing it) to the factory.

Stoney

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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 03:50:08 -0400
From: "Timothy R. Anderson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake line

Hi guys (and gals),....


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