61-79-list-digest Wednesday, June 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 187



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines
RE: FTE 61-79 - brake lines
FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - coil blues
FTE 61-79 - Brakes
RE: FTE 61-79 - Brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Brakes
FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Wheel bearings :-( [Now powder coating]
FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6
RE: FTE 61-79 - Was Wheel bearings :-( [Now powder coating]
RE: FTE 61-79 - brake lines
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - brake lines
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6
Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Wheel bearings :-( [Now powder coating]
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
RE: FTE 61-79 - brake lines
FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot, also leak from thermostat housing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Wheel bearings :-( [Now sticky Grease]
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot, also leak from thermostat housing
FTE 61-79 - Vinyal Paint
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot,also leak from thermostat housing
RE: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection
RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot, also leak from thermos tat housing
FTE 61-79 - brake lines
Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection
FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel
Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection/ big block AOD
FTE 61-79 - Bleedin'Brakes/Vinyl Paint
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1971 truck
FTE 61-79 - Rear Disc Brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear Disc Brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear Disc Brakes

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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 01:22:13 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Engines

"Jeff,
I am not going to tell you that Autozone or any other
auto store ever sold a bad engine, but I will tell you
that those places are run by accountants whose
interest is the Bottom Line, ROI (Return on
Investment) and Dollar Volume. They are OK for oil and
filters and new aftermarket parts, but I hesitate when
I have to purchse something that has been
remanufactured from any of them.

If your old block and heads are in decent shape take
it to a local automotive machine shop, where the guy
whose name is on the door is doing (or at least
overseeing) the work.etc..."

My sentiments exactly.I have never purchased a "remanufactered"
engine,but I know two guys who did.
One bought a "reman" do*#e.It had a cracked block.The other had three
engines installed in his bl*#!* before he got a decent one.
Of course thier first mistake was choice of vehicle, but......
Ask around,Show n' Shines,Cruise Ins etc. are great places to find
out who does quality work.
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 06:36:54 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - brake lines

I'm using Dick Cepek's lines front and back and Earls for the wheels up
front and have no complaints. I think the Cepek lines are actually
skyjackers. Aircraft have been using this type of line for many years and
there are no substitutes there so why are they less desireable in a truck?

Earls lines are actually 3 layers, teflon, rubber and stainless steel
braided matting. Even though standard lines have the steel matting embedded
in the rubber I should think they are no stronger or safer than Earls?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I was reading a thing on stainless braided lines that said
> >the tests were pretty bad for anything steel which was why
> the braided
> >hoses were very hard to get DOT approval... though there are
> a couple out
> >there.
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 06:37:30 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

>
> Here is the deal: I need to buy a timing gear set, lifters and cam for my
> 1966 F-250 6 cylinder 240 cid. The VIN code for the engine is A. My parts
> guy wants to know if it is the light duty or heavy duty motor. None of my
> resources differentiates bw a LD or HD 240 only the 300. Anybody know the
> answer to this. If there is a difference what are the identifiers?

One thing I've found in my first few days as a parts chimp is that when
you come to one of those questions, you have to look at both options.
Most of the time the question has nothing to do with the part you asked
for, and will show the same part for both. I seriously doubt that the
cam and timing kit is different between the 240 or 300 in any
incarnation.

I have never heard of a HD 240, and can't see why there would be much
difference (advance curve really is about it, if even that) in the
300's. Tony?
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 08:00:26 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - coil blues

One terminal is the 12v lead to the coil via the ignition switch or shunt of
the relay for starting and the other is the energize terminal also from the
ignition switch to pull the relay on. Some use the ignition switch to
energize the coil, others use the shunt in the relay to back feed to the
coil for this purpose. In any case, when you turn the key to the start
position you should have 12v on both terminals and to crank the engine all
you need is a screwdriver to cross the heavy input side to the closest
terminal which in most cases will also energize the coil wire to start so
when cranking to position the engine the second wire should be removed to
prevent firing etc. but this may depend on the year, not sure. I've had
them both ways.

Just reread your post......the starter run on is due to back feeding from
the ignition circuit to the relay. Since the start and coil terminals are
shunted together in some relays (this shunt may only happen when the
selenoid is energized), if you energize one you also energize the other and
it takes 12v to initialize the selenoid but only takes about 2v to keep it
energized. I learned this with a bad duraspark module :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> also my starter relay has two small poles that if i'm
> not wrong wire back to the ignition (?), to get it to
> turn over i ended up leaving the red one off, with it
> connected it would continue to crank the starter as
> long as the ignition was on, everything works now, but
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 07:09:48 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

>>the guy
suggested bleeding it with the cap on ... no idea why, he just said the
instructions said to use it

You know how you just take some things for granted. You always bleed brakes
with the cap on the MC. Most of them will squirt fluid all over the place on
the backstroke and some on the forward stroke. The last MC I put on
suggesting doing the bench bleeding with the unit bolted onto the truck.
Part of this has to do with the angle, part has to do with the mechanical
advantage afforded by the truck's brake pedal. Again, all bleeding should be
done wth slow firm strokes. (I know.)

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http//www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 08:25:17 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

I just set the cap on without clamping it so air can get in. I hate it when
the rubber thingy gets sucked out and you have to try to fold it all back
in, course the newer ones don't have that kind of cap :-)

The reason is the same, messy with cap off :-) Has absolutely no affect on
the outcome of bleeding AFAIK unless you splash so much out you get air back
in the MC :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> You know how you just take some things for granted. You
> always bleed brakes
> with the cap on the MC. Most of them will squirt fluid all
> over the place on
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 08:35:10 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

In a message dated 6/2/99 7:41:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ballingr ldd.net
writes:

> One thing I've found in my first few days as a parts chimp is that when
> you come to one of those questions, you have to look at both options.

Thanks for the reply. This guy is on the ball. He did run everything
down as far as he could. Specifically, it was the cam gear that mattered.
He showed two different part nos. for the cam gear and then there was a
subsequent choice that had to be made with each part no. to specify for a
steel or fiber gear.
I don't believe that the cam had options. Neither did the replacement
lifters (although Ford did install two different ones --type I and type II.
Incidentally, I just found in the MPC that Ford installed only a 58 tooth
"plastic" gear in the 65/72 F100/250 (4x2). The 4x4 came installed with a 92
tooth cast iron gear. I think this must be the distinction the parts guy
needs to know.

This brings up another point. Aside from the lack of oil to the
valve train due to the failing lifters---there was a rather loud rattling
noise coming from the front cover on acceleration. This was what originally
drew my attention to a problem with the motor. I can tell from the timing
cover gasket material sticking out that someone has had the cover off before.
I cant wait to see how bad the gears are now. I am thinking of use a Fiber
gear for the noise factor. I do not use the truck for hauling only driving.
Anyone have any input on steel vs fiber cam gears?

Thanks again to all.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm


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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 08:45:44 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

There were two gears for it and the years have different built in
advance/retard positions. Don't get the plastic gears! They're quieter but
don't hold up very well.

If he has both parts in stock, ask to look at them and if there is no
differnance in the mounting features get the cast iron ones but pay
attention to the location of the gear key way or pin hole.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> He showed two different part nos. for the cam gear and then
> there was a
> subsequent choice that had to be made with each part no. to
> specify for a
> steel or fiber gear.
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:31:49 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

>I just set the cap on without clamping it so air can get in. I hate it when
>the rubber thingy gets sucked out and you have to try to fold it all back
>in, course the newer ones don't have that kind of cap :-)
>
>The reason is the same, messy with cap off :-) Has absolutely no affect on
>the outcome of bleeding AFAIK unless you splash so much out you get air back
>in the MC :-)
>
>--
>> You know how you just take some things for granted. You
>> always bleed brakes
>> with the cap on the MC. Most of them will squirt fluid all
>> over the place on

I wasn't having a problem with the fluid splashing out at all. Actually
the only sign I was having a problem was that when my buddy was spinning
the wheel by hand, if I held the brakes as hard as I could, he could still
spin them just a little bit by putting all his weight on it. If I pumped
them once, then he couldn't any more... after bleeding with the cap on he
couldn't even on the first pump....

Oh well, hafta do my truck tonight or tomorrow, so I'll probably try it
with the cap ON and see if my brakes get better ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:31:51 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

Well gang, I just made history.....my history that is :-) My first wheel
bearing on the front of anything, ever, just blew this morning on my way to
work. Started grabbing and squealing like a mangled pig but intermittant.
By the time I got turned around and got it home the front end felt like the
right front wheel was only being retained by the caliper, not a pretty
picture :-(

Guess the satalite dish project will have to wait till I get that fixed now
:-(

Both rear axles are leaking now too and I just put new bearings and seals on
them so I guess the axles are next :-( I could try building them up with my
powder spray kit but still would have no way to grind them back in so I
guess new ones are on my list. I wonder of autokrafters might
have........naw, not likely :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:34:10 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

>One thing I've found in my first few days as a parts chimp is that when
>you come to one of those questions, you have to look at both options.
>Most of the time the question has nothing to do with the part you asked
>for, and will show the same part for both.

You're catchin on Bill! The whole brake hose thing with my former employer
shows that not all parts chimps are on the same branch of the tree ...
maybe if we get you high enough up there you will be able to answer all of
our questions off the top of your head :)

Hope you're still enjoying the job, it was fun sometimes and boring as all
get out others ...
but seein the customer actually bring the car back after gettin him some
major parts will always make you feel good.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:42:14 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Wheel bearings :-( [Now powder coating]

In a message dated 6/2/99 9:36:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> Both rear axles are leaking now too and I just put new bearings and seals on
> them so I guess the axles are next :-( I could try building them up with
my
> powder spray kit but still would have no way to grind them back in so I
> guess new ones are on my list.

Bummer on the bearings. Is that Eastwood's powder coat kit? Give me the
skinny if you would. I am interested in that and the price seems great.
Thanks. ( BTW--Thanks for the info re the cam gears)

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:46:34 -0400
From: David Henderson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6

Stock Man:

In Tony's absence, I'll attempt to answer your question. In the 300 I6, the
only difference between the two (heavy duty and light duty) is the crank. The
light duty has a cast iron crank, while the heavy duty has a steel crank. The
two blocks and heads are the same. My guess is that if this is the original
engine in this F-250, more than likely it is a heavy duty version with a steel
crank. Never heard of a 240 in a 3/4 ton, but there's always a first time. If
you only need the cam gear, I have a spare from my rebuild (out of a heavy
duty 300 I6), send me an e-mail and I'll try to send it to you.

As far as my rebuild goes, I am headless. I have the lower unit all completed.
It looks real good and all of the clearances came up right the first time. I
should get the head back later this week, but it won't be in time for a trip to
North Carolina I have to make starting this weekend. I guess I'll have to wait
until the 12th to do my engine.

Good Luck!!

Dave H

- --
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:57:31 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Was Wheel bearings :-( [Now powder coating]

Hot metal powder spray with my torch, different animal, sorry. It's a
method they use to build up shafts where bearings have worn into them,
especially "expensive" shafts which can be repaired more cheaply than
replaced.

Unfortunately in the case of rear axles I don't anticipate being able to
repair them more cheaply than buying new by the time you pay someone to
grind them back in.

The Eastwood kit is for powder coating which is a form of paint or anodizing
and won't hold up for this purpose I don't think. Really cool for freshing
up your steering flanges when you put on new rag joints though. I used
flourescent Orange Rustoleum on mine and it looks "COOL"!! but powder
coating in that same application will hold up much better I'm told :-) It
would, of course, lose someting without the flourescence :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Bummer on the bearings. Is that Eastwood's powder coat kit?
> Give me the
> skinny if you would. I am interested in that and the price
> seems great.
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:59:21 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - brake lines

At 05:36 AM 6/2/99 , you wrote:
>I'm using Dick Cepek's lines front and back and Earls for the wheels up
>front and have no complaints. I think the Cepek lines are actually
>skyjackers. Aircraft have been using this type of line for many years and
>there are no substitutes there so why are they less desireable in a truck?
>
This has to do mostly with maintenance cycles, do you "pre flight" your
truck ? If so, does it include checking the brake hoses ? As the steel
gets flexed it gets work hardened and becomes brittle, eventually causing a
break that if not puncturing the line itself, it will allow something else
to break the line. I also have a hunch that the trucks which are using
their wheels all the time will probably wear things a little faster than
the planes which tend to retract them for longer distances :)

>Earls lines are actually 3 layers, teflon, rubber and stainless steel
>braided matting. Even though standard lines have the steel matting embedded
>in the rubber I should think they are no stronger or safer than Earls?
>

OKay, I found that page I was reading. This was written up by a guy with a
97 Cobra. The link explains it all ... if you want me to copy and mail the
actual text I can do that as well, just ask.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4893/stainless.rtf

This also talks about the whip test and several other things. Hope this
clears things up. I'll probably end up with the braided stuff on the
'stang, but the truck I'll stick with the rubber.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 09:01:44 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

>Both rear axles are leaking now too and I just put new bearings and seals on
>them so I guess the axles are next :-(


Here's an odd thought...have you checked the vent on the axle ? as you get
heat in there, pressure will build up if not allowed to vent, the result?
seals pushed out of the way and fluid running out ... something to check,
certainly cheaper than axles ... is speedy sleeve available for that type
of application ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:05:17 -0400
From: tony
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

CONGRATULATIONS GARY!!!!

I had to say this, just because me and wheelbearings don't coexist peacefully
anymore in my '78.... Either I'm the worst wheel bearing grease packer in the
world, or I just have bad luck, but let me say this-- The importance of good
quality wheel bearing grease, and more importantly, QUALITY BEARINGS are the two
main factors when doing such a job...(ok, DUH!!! but let me say this-- I used
NAPA HQ wheel bearing grease, which promptly turned to dirt after a month, then
Mobil 1 which got so liquidy it would run out of my hub seals, and the only
stuff I found that works for me (IMHO) is Kendal Super Blue wheelbearing grease)

How do I know?? 8-) I did a wheel bearing swap in the parking lot of work
last week, and then a month before on the side of the expressway... lets see....
about 2 months before that on a country road near where a friend lives... umm...
'bout 3 months before that I actually made it home.... (grand total comes to 6
wheel bearing jobs in the past 1.5-2 years on the same truck. Don't have a
friggin' problem with my '93 4x4...(same parts, same oversized tires!)) Don't
even get me started on U-joints... ;-) Word of warning-- check to make sure
the races aren't spun-- on a two of mine when the bearing went bad, it managed
to seize itself into the hub and start spinning the race which consequently
ruined my hub also.

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> Well gang, I just made history.....my history that is :-) My first wheel
> bearing on the front of anything, ever, just blew this morning on my way to
> work. Started grabbing and squealing like a mangled pig but intermittant.
> By the time I got turned around and got it home the front end felt like the
> right front wheel was only being retained by the caliper, not a pretty
> picture :-(
>
> Guess the satalite dish project will have to wait till I get that fixed now
> :-(
>
> Both rear axles are leaking now too and I just put new bearings and seals on
> them so I guess the axles are next :-( I could try building them up with my
> powder spray kit but still would have no way to grind them back in so I
> guess new ones are on my list. I wonder of autokrafters might
> have........naw, not likely :-(
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167

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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 09:10:45 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

>> It is my understanding the HD inline 6 motors are nodular cast. How to ID
>> them is another story.
>> My book shows it as code A for gas motors and code 1 (one) for low
>> compression motors.
>> Would the code 1 be the HD motor? My guess is no, why put a low
>> compression motor in a work horse?

On the FE's the HD stuff is actually a lower compression, they use it to
make a butt load of torque on the low side and that's about it. They also
have smaller valves in the head. I think the reason for the lower
compression is lower maintenance, you aren't as worried about the quality
of gas, and you know people are going to beat on their work trucks, so keep
them a bit below the limits on everything so they can take more of a
beating ... just my theory on things ...


>> Did they ever intentionally put a HD motor in an F-350 or lighter truck?

Intentionally? Not sure, our beloved FE's in the later years are the heavy
duty castings in the lighter trucks ... :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:13:56 -0400
From: tony
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - brake lines

William S Hart wrote:

> This has to do mostly with maintenance cycles, do you "pre flight" your
> truck ?

Every single day if I plan on making it to work..... he he he

(couldn't resist!)

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 10:21:24 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6

In a message dated 6/2/99 10:00:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, DHenders VT.Edu
writes:

> My guess is that if this is the original
> engine in this F-250, more than likely it is a heavy duty version with a
> steel crank. Never heard of a 240 in a 3/4 ton.

Let's just say that the engine tag and the VIN code both show "240". Also
all of the engine casting numbers are correct for a 1966 240 which leads me
to conclude its original. Thanks for the offer on the gear.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 10:27:27 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Wheel bearings :-( [Now powder coating]

In a message dated 6/2/99 10:05:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> Hot metal powder spray with my torch, different animal, sorry. It's a
> method they use to build up shafts where bearings have worn into them,
> especially "expensive" shafts which can be repaired more cheaply than
> replaced.
I understand the difference in the processes you mention. However, I
couldn't tell if you had tongue in cheek when you stated "powder spray" (and
I did recognize the difference in terminology) But since you seem to have a
lot of gadgets and know a lot of stuff about a lot a things....and since I am
interested in Eastwood's product I figured...

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 07:59:23 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

Tony,

BTDT! Replaced the right front hub on my '79 2 years ago when I first bought
it 'cause of a bad inner race. If you haven't already be sure to pick up one
of those little bearing packers and a grease gun. Also make sure when you
repack that you set the preload on the bearing correctly. There needs to be
a little movement in the rotor once you've locked the nut in place. I
believe it's .010-.015 if I'm not mistaken.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: tony
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 7:07 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(


>Word of warning-- check to make sure
>the races aren't spun-- on a two of mine when the bearing went bad, it
managed
>to seize itself into the hub and start spinning the race which consequently
>ruined my hub also.



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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 09:11:41 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

>
>Both rear axles are leaking now too and I just put new bearings and seals on
>them so I guess the axles are next :-( I could try building them up with my
>powder spray kit but still would have no way to grind them back in so I
>guess new ones are on my list. I wonder of autokrafters might
>have........naw, not likely :-(
>


Gary: Ever heard of Speedi Sleeves? They're thin metal tubes that you
slip over the area where a seal has rubbed too much on a surface, like on
the harmonic balancer spacer, driveshaft yokes, and the ends of Dana 60's.
I dunno if one works for your application but it's worth finding out.


Marko

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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:29:16 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

Tony, you're not one of those guys that believes he needs 200# of torque on
the spindle nuts are you? :-) We went round and round on the bronco list
over this issue, tapered bearings MUST HAVE ZERO PRELOAD and ZERO AXIAL FREE
PLAY so when you torque the bearings according to the book......it's to
"seat" the bearings but you have to back it off so there is 0.000" to 0.010"
axial free play. With disk brakes 0.000 is preferable. My bearings are
almost 200k miles old and have been exposed to some dirt recently so I guess
I should have expected something like this :-(

I do agree with the Kendal tho :-) Nice sticky stuff :-) I generally run
my trucks till the body falls off and have never repacked the bearings on
any of them (well, maybe a few here and there) or replaced them either and
I've had this one apart many times and never repacked them as I
recall....maybe when I rebuilt the front end, don't remember and can't
remember what grease I used but last time I looked at them the grease seemed
to be OK.

I do think I will be a little more ambitious though in the future :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> How do I know?? 8-) I did a wheel bearing swap in the
> parking lot of work
> last week, and then a month before on the side of the
> expressway... lets see....
> about 2 months before that on a country road near where a
> friend lives... umm...
> 'bout 3 months before that I actually made it home....
> (grand total comes to 6
> wheel bearing jobs in the past 1.5-2 years on the same truck.
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:48:05 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

>Tony, you're not one of those guys that believes he needs 200# of torque on
>the spindle nuts are you? :-) We went round and round on the bronco list
>over this issue, tapered bearings MUST HAVE ZERO PRELOAD and ZERO AXIAL FREE
>PLAY so when you torque the bearings according to the book......it's to
>"seat" the bearings but you have to back it off so there is 0.000" to 0.010"
>axial free play. With disk brakes 0.000 is preferable.

This becomes evident quickly if you've ever messed with bicycles and left
the bearings too tight ... they loosen up and wear very quickly and you're
stuck doing it again...I would imagine things are only accelerated on
trucks, though the bearings are probably harder they are also put to a lot
more abuse.

>I do agree with the Kendal tho :-) Nice sticky stuff :-) I generally run
>my trucks till the body falls off and have never repacked the bearings on
>any of them (well, maybe a few here and there) or replaced them either and

Hmmm... I don't remember what brand I used last time I did this at home ...
seems like Dad told me the can of wheel bearing grease he had was older
than me ... it was some stringy stuff, but once you got it worked in it was
great ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:56:55 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - brake lines

On Chinooks (CH-47) the lines were mostly stationary but the constant
modulation of the pressure in them caused them to jump about quite
noticeably and vibrate so that chafing was the primary concern and also one
of the reasons they used the outer mesh on them. At 3000 psi and hot oil to
boot you don't want to get in front of a broken line for sure :-) The one
thing I hated about them was that, as you say, some of the wires would break
and due to the proximity of them to each other and tight work spaces we got
our arms chewed up pretty well working on them :-(

For my application, I tied them up in such a way that they do not flex very
much and the flex is taken up by a long loop spreading the movement over a
large area which will reduce any fatigue syndrome. As you noted, stock
lines can come unglued too so that cancels out IMHO :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> As the steel
> gets flexed it gets work hardened and becomes brittle,
> eventually causing a
> break that if not puncturing the line itself, it will allow
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 12:08:57 -0400
From: john.e.turpel bellatlantic.COM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot, also leak from thermostat housing

Hi everybody, long time lurker. I searched my big archive of ford enthuiast
posts and couldnt find help with these problems
I live in Virginia Beach Virginia and proudly own a 79 ford f100 shortbed with
rebuilt 302 motor (almost 2 years old) which suddenly developed
problems with starting when hot.
Replaced starter, solenoid, battery. Cleaned and checked all connections. Any
other suggestions? Im puzzled by the fact that it starts up fine cold and runs
GREAT hot OR cold.
When the engine is hot (by hot I mean regular temp (around 190)) and I try to
start it, it will do one of the following in random order
1.)start right up
2.)turn over for several seconds before starting
3.)make a click sound
4.)make a click, wait a second then turn over and start.
One guy told me to check at night for any sparks around the motor especially
the distributor but there were no sparks. I have not opened up the distributor
cap
to check inside there. Would the distributor act up when hot? would coil.
Is the engine itself bad?
I thought of a broken wire but wouldn't a broken wire act up when cold? when he
wire cools it would contract and separate. A hot wire would just get bigger.
It could be coincidence but the (homemade) wiring harness between the voltage
regulator and coil when jiggled seems to fix it but the problem is quite
intermittent making it very difficult to diagnose. The oil shows no signs of
antifreeze in it.
I thought of some kind of vapor lock is this possible?
I figured by keeping the engine as .cool as possible would help (and it does) so
I finally
got
round to replacing the sticky thermostat which brings me to my second
question...

After THREE tries I still cant
replace
it without a leak.
Its on there as tight as possible and after the third try the leak is very slow,
maybe about 1 drop
every hour. I used a gasket from the auotparts store that was that prefab
cardboard
of some sort as well as some orange high heat silicone.
One time, after the thermostat slipped between the housing causing major
leakage, I got a tip and used a string tied onto the thermostat and pulled
through the housing to hold
the
thermostat tight against the housing. and then removed the string. worked great
but I still have a leak
Do they make rubber gaskets for this purpose? why not? seems rubber gaskets
would work alot better. Please any tips? I will let it leak unless I get some
sure fire advise. The bottom bolt of the thermostat is hard to reach and Im
sick
of screwing around with it.

Thanks for any help you all can give!!!

P.S.


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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 12:16:35 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Wheel bearings :-( [Now sticky Grease]

In a message dated 6/2/99 12:01:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, wish iastate.edu
writes:

>
> Hmmm... I don't remember what brand I used last time I did this at home ...
> seems like Dad told me the can of wheel bearing grease he had was older
> than me ... it was some stringy stuff, but once you got it worked in it was
> great ...


I had a thirty year old can of Quaker State Grease. Best stuff I
ever saw. Haven't seen anything I liked as much since. It was just as you
described stringy stuff. Almost cried when I finally used it up :-(

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm




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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 12:04:25 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot, also leak from thermostat housing

Have you taken the battery and starter off to be tested? Might be worth
a shot! Sounds to me like the battery is weak, or the starter is using
too many amps!

On the thermostat housing, pull it off and check the sealing surface
with a straught-edge for straightness. Might be warped.
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 12:37:12 -0700
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vinyal Paint

All looking for this stuff: Just read a favorable write up in new Hot
Rod on some stuff called Molecubond, sold a walmarts,Pep Boysand Auto
Zone,or so they say. I used Duplicolor vinyal Paint was good quality
but color selection was inadequate.

HTH

Al
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:42:10 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

> I can tell from the timing
> cover gasket material sticking out that someone has had the cover off
before.
> I cant wait to see how bad the gears are now. I am thinking of use a
Fiber
> gear for the noise factor. I do not use the truck for hauling only
driving.
> Anyone have any input on steel vs fiber cam gears?
>
...........

Isn't it the fiber gears that end up coming off of the sprocket and
falling into the oil pan? I was able to remove the chain with sprockets in
place on the last timing set I saw, as all of the teeth were trying to get
past the oil pump pickup tube screen.
IMHO: A high quality true double roller will last a very long time, and
doesn't make any noise that you would notice, and you don't have to worry so
much about chunks of debris inside your engine (except for the valve stem
seals).


Danger
danger csolutions.net



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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 19:46:53 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection

Mitsubishi has already a production gas engine with direct injection...

What happens if you are in the middle of nowhere, and the engine fails,
will it be very easy to fix it yourself ?

Bill



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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 13:52:31 -0400
From: tony
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings :-(

Hahaha I knew I'd take some "what kind of idiot are you" heat from spilling out
the information on how often I do wheelbearings-- but yeah, I keep 'em loose
enough to roll, and tight enough you can't wiggle it! 8-) I know the first
sets I did were failure due to crappy grease, and the second set was probably
due to water/offroading, but it just kinda got out of hand. I used up all of
my Kendal grease on my '93 (thus, like I said, no problems at all) and have yet
to be able to find the stuff again or I'd buy a couple gallons of it as much as
I go through! I can't even fathom the fact that wheelbearings can last more
than 20k. 8-) And STU WANTS ME to do his bearings/hubs!! hahahahahaha.

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony


"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> Tony, you're not one of those guys that believes he needs 200# of torque on
> the spindle nuts are you? :-) We went round and round on the bronco list
> over this issue, tapered bearings MUST HAVE ZERO PRELOAD and ZERO AXIAL FREE
> PLAY so when you torque the bearings according to the book......it's to
> "seat" the bearings but you have to back it off so there is 0.000" to 0.010"
> axial free play. With disk brakes 0.000 is preferable. My bearings are
> almost 200k miles old and have been exposed to some dirt recently so I guess
> I should have expected something like this :-(
>
> I do agree with the Kendal tho :-) Nice sticky stuff :-) I generally run
> my trucks till the body falls off and have never repacked the bearings on
> any of them (well, maybe a few here and there) or replaced them either and
> I've had this one apart many times and never repacked them as I
> recall....maybe when I rebuilt the front end, don't remember and can't
> remember what grease I used but last time I looked at them the grease seemed
> to be OK.
>
> I do think I will be a little more ambitious though in the future :-)
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167

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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 13:56:48 -0400
From: tony
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

The only thing about this- is we are talking about a 240/300 I-6 --- No chain
involved! ;-) Gear to gear.

I had a steel in my first 300 before it took a piston a different direction than
designed, and put fiber in my reman engine. Personally, I heard no noise
difference.

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

> Isn't it the fiber gears that end up coming off of the sprocket and
> falling into the oil pan? I was able to remove the chain with sprockets in
> place on the last timing set I saw, as all of the teeth were trying to get
> past the oil pump pickup tube screen.
> IMHO: A high quality true double roller will last a very long time, and
> doesn't make any noise that you would notice, and you don't have to worry so
> much about chunks of debris inside your engine (except for the valve stem
> seals).
>
> Danger
> danger csolutions.net
>
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 13:09:10 -0500
From: "Nate Doelling"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot,also leak from thermostat housing

Hey all,
I have three hopefully simple questons:
1) How easily does a 300 i6 or 351W fit into a '79 F150 with a
current 351M?
2) Has anyone ever put a late model 351W EFI into a 70's F150?
3) Anyone know of a place in North Texas to get a good reman. engine
like on of the above?

Thanks
Nate D
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 14:08:58 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection

Bill, don't even go there....... :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> What happens if you are in the middle of nowhere, and the
> engine fails,
> will it be very easy to fix it yourself ?
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 13:09:44 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection

>Mitsubishi has already a production gas engine with direct injection...
>
>What happens if you are in the middle of nowhere, and the engine fails,
>will it be very easy to fix it yourself ?

I think the technology for the direct injection of gasoline will be a
combination of diesel style injectors and all the electronics and junk from
the gas fuel injection systems ... in short, no, it'll be just as bad as
things are now. Shouldn't be too much worse, but does open up new
possibilities for problems to develop (lost compression could now be an o
ring on an injector or something)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 14:13:59 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Wont start when hot, also leak from thermos tat housing

Does it crank normally when this happens or is the cranking part of the
problem? If cranking is the problem then the starter is getting too hot,
the engine is getting hotter than you think or if it's a carbed engine you
could have percolation which dumps fuel into the manifold and causes it to
buck when firing.

If it cranks fine but won't catch then it could ba a myriad of things,
mostly including loose connections, broken (read old rotten) wires etc..

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> rebuilt 302 motor (almost 2 years old) which suddenly developed
> problems with starting when hot.
> Replaced starter, solenoid, battery. Cleaned and checked all
> connections. Any
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 13:16:39 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake lines

Well I went and picked up my brake line today. For those of you who agreed
with me and thought it was expensive for a brake hose, I now know why. It
is about 8" of rubber followed by nearly 2 feet of really nicely bent steel
to go around about every contour on the axle ... this one is for the early
and late (through Q and after T on the serial numbers if I rem right) The
part is a Raybestos number BH-36789 if anyone needs it. This is for the
pass side on a 4x4 with drum brakes, no idea if its the same for discs or
not ...hopefully I'll get that done sometime this week and get the truck
back on the road, and with a little luck and the lid on the master cylinder
maybe my brakes will work like I think they're supposed to after bleeding.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 14:27:41 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection

William S Hart wrote:
>
> >Mitsubishi has already a production gas engine with direct injection...
> >
> >What happens if you are in the middle of nowhere, and the engine fails,
> >will it be very easy to fix it yourself ?
>
> I think the technology for the direct injection of gasoline will be a
> combination of diesel style injectors and all the electronics and junk from
> the gas fuel injection systems ... in short, no, it'll be just as bad as
> things are now. Shouldn't be too much worse, but does open up new
> possibilities for problems to develop (lost compression could now be an o
> ring on an injector or something)
>

Man, I would like to see THAT O-ring, heeheehee

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 14:19:01 -0400
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel

Hey, Folks

Thanks for the tip on the "original style" cab mounts from Dennis Carpenter
(it was Wish, I think). I have been looking for those for two years now. I
*am* excited. They should arrive this week. I'll keep you posted.

On my 390 build: Is the flywheel (1972 390, NP435 manual transmission)
different from a 360 (1968) flywheel? If so, how do they differ? I was
hoping to use the one that is in the truck now.

Doss Halsey
'68 F250 Camper Special, Ranger Trim, 360 soon to be 390, POR 15 everywhere.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 13:42:46 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection

>> possibilities for problems to develop (lost compression could now be an o
>> ring on an injector or something)

> Man, I would like to see THAT O-ring, heeheehee
>

Okay so I didn't literally mean an O-ring :) But there's gotta be somethin
there ... you don't think that rubber'll hold up to the combustion temps
and the lovely environment that exsists there ? :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 14:59:25 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection/ big block AOD

William S Hart wrote:
>
> >> possibilities for problems to develop (lost compression could now be an o
> >> ring on an injector or something)
>
> > Man, I would like to see THAT O-ring, heeheehee
> >
>
> Okay so I didn't literally mean an O-ring :) But there's gotta be somethin
> there ... you don't think that rubber'll hold up to the combustion temps
> and the lovely environment that exsists there ? :)
>

Heehee, just bustin.

On another note, I just found out from the Bronco list that Lentech
makes a big block (351M-460) to AOD adapter. Only adds 500$ to their
2000$ street terminator AOD, what a bargain :-). Supposedly they have
another adapter for the rear end, possibly for a NP205??? I couldn't
find a web site for them

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 11:56:07 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bleedin'Brakes/Vinyl Paint

"I've tried every method I've learned about and used special equipment
and have never been able to beat the simple gravity system on my 78's."

How is this done Gary?
I hooked two 1/2 full bottles of fluid to my rear wheels cracked the
bleeders and let it set.No fluid came out.
My garage floor has a little slope so I thought it would bleed.

"I tried to get my daughter to watch the MC while my wife was
pumping the brakes. All I got was fluid all over the place and
a dry reservoir. Oh well, at 7 years old she doesn't yet have a
good grasp of mechanical concepts."

Brake bleeding is a family activity here too.They learn how to bleed
brakes and some new words at the same time.

"Does anyone have a good recommendation for vinyl paint? "

I used Mar-Hyde on mine and am pleased with the resuts.A automotive
paint store should have it.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:07:40 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel

All FE flywheels should be the same except for the 410 and 428, which are
externally balanced and the others are internally balanced.

- -Ted





"J. Doss Halsey" on 06/02/99 02:19:01 PM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts, 390 flywheel




Hey, Folks

Thanks for the tip on the "original style" cab mounts from Dennis Carpenter
(it was Wish, I think). I have been looking for those for two years now. I
*am* excited. They should arrive this week. I'll keep you posted.

On my 390 build: Is the flywheel (1972 390, NP435 manual transmission)
different from a 360 (1968) flywheel? If so, how do they differ? I was
hoping to use the one that is in the truck now.

Doss Halsey
'68 F250 Camper Special, Ranger Trim, 360 soon to be 390, POR 15 everywhere.
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html










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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 12:19:31 -0700
From: jefro netscape.com (Jeffrey Osier-Mixon)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1971 truck

Where are you located?

Tanx

"Forest V. New" wrote:

>
> Its been a while since Ive posted anything but thought I would let list
> members know that I just purchased a 1970 f-100 for parts. It has a nice
> grill with good inserts, and factory air. I mainly need the cab and bed for
> panel repairs on my truck, so if you need something let me know.
> Forest New
> racer23 mindspring.com
>
> 72 Ford XLT
> 69 MACH 1 Mustang
> 89 Ford Ranger XLT
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
Sua matriz um ganso, e seu pai faz eggrolls para um vivo.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 14:37:00 -0500
From: sjacobi fd9ns01.okladot.state.ok.us
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear Disc Brakes

I have been reading with quite a bit of interest of late all of the information
regarding brakes, lines, ABS, etc. I am planning on doing the front disc brake
conversion on my '67 2WD F100 as time permits this summer. I have seen the
posts about mid '70s Lincolns and others with rear disc brakes on a 9" rear end.
Just this morning I was thumbing through my latest ('95) Ford Motorsport catalog
and I found what they call a "5-lug low cost rear brake kit" which fits late
Ford 9" rear ends. My question is, has anybody out there tried this? Will it
fit a 9" from 1967? Problems? They list it at $350 which has some amount of
appeal if I'm going to tear up my brake system in the first place. TIA for any
responses.

Steve Jacobi


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 14:46:58 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear Disc Brakes

>and I found what they call a "5-lug low cost rear brake kit" which fits late
>Ford 9" rear ends. My question is, has anybody out there tried this? Will it
>fit a 9" from 1967? Problems? They list it at $350 which has some amount of
>appeal if I'm going to tear up my brake system in the first place. TIA
for any
>responses.
>
You might look a little closer, an 8.8" is not the same as a 9", I haven't
looked at the catalog lately, but I don't remember hearing about these, and
I can't think of any latemodels that come with a 9" either ...

If it really is for a 9", then it might just work for you ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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