61-79-list-digest Wednesday, June 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 186



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - ****WHEW***
RE: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford Club Wagon Van 3/4 ton
RE: FTE 61-79 - Braking issues
RE: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection
FTE 61-79 - 77 ac refrigerant amount
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2v adjustment
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?
FTE 61-79 - 1972 ford f-100 Armrests
FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Braking issues
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Braking issues
RE: FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - Rims and such
FTE 61-79 - Starting
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting
FTE 61-79 - brake lines
Re: FTE 61-79 - brake lines
RE: FTE 61-79 - Starting
FTE 61-79 - Re: books on rebuilding a 390
FTE 61-79 - Brake flex line cost
FTE 61-79 - Vinyl Paint?
FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford Van
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vinyl Paint?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Starting
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake flex line cost
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vinyl Paint?
FTE 61-79 - 4412
Re: FTE 61-79 - brake lines
FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vinyl Paint?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 06:45:17 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - ****WHEW***

A school mate of mine back in 64 had a 57 bird with hot 312 (tripower) in it
and he didn't know how to drive under 100mph......anyway he threw the front
end of his shaft and it dug into the pavement, bucled the shaft in the
middle and the point of the "V" came up betwee the two bucket seats and was
easily visible from outside the car through the side window.....even he was
a little shaken up :-) (which is saying something)

He also threw his fan out the hood at 8k rpm after a rebuild.....:-) The
whole thing went through the hood and left a big hole as I recall (been 35
years :-))

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> would have disintegrated half way there. Then he told me the
> horror stories
> of how a driveshaft could go right through the floorboards or
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:12:22 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford Club Wagon Van 3/4 ton

My 460 did this so I put a long rubber line from the pump up to the hood and
back down to the carb so there would be liquid fuel at the carb inlet at all
times. I have a glass filter on it and could actually see the fuel boiling
in the filter. I also put in a new radiator with more capacity which helped
even more to keep the under hood heat down.

In the Van this was a problem, in the pickup it has never seemed to be a
problem with the same engine and radiator so I have normal line routing in
the PU. In the van the engine cover used to get so hot you couldn't put
your knee against it or it would blister!

Is this engine a retrofit? Vans typically come with 351W, 460 or 302. The
335 series engines were never used in them that I've ever heard of?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hi there y'all, I'm new to the list...I bought a 77 Ford Club
> Wagon Van 3/4
> with Cleveland engine. Overall everything is very good,
>
> There would appear to be a vapor lock problem when the
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:23:47 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Braking issues

I teflon wrapped my bleeders and gravity bleed my 78's with good success but
if there is any leak even small seepage under pressure it will pull air back
in. When you bleed normally with two people also remember to burp the
bleeder after all is done by keeping the tube on it full of fluid while
cracking the bleeder to watch for air bubbles. If you do this you will
"always" see at least one small bubble and it is enough to make your brakes
spongy, trust me :-)

I've tried every method I've learned about and used special equipment and
have never been able to beat the simple gravity system on my 78's. Newer
vehicles with canted MC's and other wierd stuff in the lines may not work as
well but the 78's cooperate very nicely with this.

Alternatively I also actively press the pedal sometimes with a plastic tube,
bled and inserted into a half full bottle of fluid to maintain bubble free
environment to the bleeder with very good success but again the bleeders
must be wrapped to prevent air from getting around the threads.

BTW, I used "gasoline" teflon tape, not plumbing tape.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >Mark, I think that you still have air in your system.
> Bleeding brakes takes
> >two people or a one man bleeding kit. The person pressing
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:42:26 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Direct Injection

Trust me, Ford "will" make it happen because eliminating the starter is one
of their prime objectives in the next year or so. They already have working
prototypes but they are not ready for production AFAIK. At one point they
even tried making the alternator strong enough to start the engine but then
this idea came along and they will be going with it some day for sure, don't
know when.

All the things you mentioned are valid arguments but none will stop the
project from being ironed out and produced. The computer can easily
sequentially fire the cylinders to make the engine start and can repeatedly
fire the same cylinder untill it senses movement etc. so it may be tricky to
get up to production standards of reliability but way not impossible. They
will do it and then my job will be defunct :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I keep hearing this, but I still don't believe it.... those
> sensors can be
> just one more thing to go wrong, not to mention starting an
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:07:37 -0500
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 77 ac refrigerant amount

> have a 77 F150 with a 460/auto and a/c. I've just converted over to
>R134a, and I've put 24 ounces of R134a in it. It's blowing pretty
>cold
>now, but I want it right. My sticker is gone, can anyone tell me what
>is the correct number of ounces of refrigerant for this system?

I have an aftermarket unit on my truck (66) and the manufacturer told
me to use :

P=2*Temp + 15%

Where P is the high side pressure and Temp is the outside ambient
temperatuer in degrees F. Don't forget to do it with AC cranked on
high and doors and windows shut.

Others have said to slowly add charge while watching the vent
temperatures and when you reach lowest temp and then start to rise
again, you've added too much.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:09:55 -0501
From:
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2v adjustment

>it doesnt want
>to take the gas when you get on the
>pedel

With the engine off, do you see gas squirt into the carb when you
manually push the throttle (quickly)? You should if accel pump is
working.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:50:27 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?

The proportioning valve on the seventies vintage vehicles at least has a
"residual" valve in it to keep the pads against the rotors to reduce pedal
movement at each application (due to piston size of calipers compared to MC)
and also has a simple spring loaded valve which reduces the pressure
available to the rear brakes to prevent lockup.

Without the residual valve the brake pedal will go to the floor on the first
pump and will be mushy so it absolutely has to be there and working properly
or you will have serious problems stopping the vehicle even pumping the
brakes like mad. (with disk front brakes only)

Timing is simply an issue of rear drum adjustment, residual valve condition,
air in the lines and pressure. The brake parts will all move at the same
time to take up any slack in the system but air will affect how each wheel
responds to the pressure applied depending on how the system is separated,
length of lines etc. and brake adjustment on the drums. Apparently the
springs in the rear drums absorb enough energy to actually force the
application of one wheel over the other on "light" braking when the
adjusment is not matched but on panic stops should have no affect.
Roundness of the shoes and drums, that is matching of the mating surfaces
OTOH does have a significant impact on which wheel will grab under full
pressure.

Front brakes can have the same differences in the play in the slides,
condition of the pads or rotors and even wheel bearing preload but
essentially, if all brake parts are matched timing will not be an issue, nor
will rear adjustment except on light application of the brake etc..

In a panic stop all four wheels will receive the same hydraulic pressure
regardless of air or other factors but the condition of drums, rotors, pads,
shoes etc or leaking cylinders will affect the way each wheel responds.
(theoretically, of course)

As to the 4x4 difference from the 2wd, there are more parts that move in the
front end of a 4x4 to take up the pressure applied and there is more weight
involved empty so I would expect some differnces but they should be slight.
My main problem with the bronco is worn sliders, wedges etc. and still have
some air but when I had the air pretty much out of it, a full pressure stop
was "softer" than the 2wd, I believe due to the "old" parts mentioned above.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Yes, but I think brake balance and brake timing are two different
> things. I have heard people attribute this function to the prop.
> valve, but AFAIK it meters fluid for the front calipers, has the
> switch for front rear pressure difference, and controls front/
> rear balance.
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 10:18:19 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1972 ford f-100 Armrests

Hey Bubba,

If your armrests are the same as a 69 (I think they might be), then look at
the mid-70's vans.....I replaced one of mine with a van armrest....bolted
right up...

CJ
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 07:37:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?

John LaGrone wrote:
> Mark, I think that you still have air in your system.

It certainly does appear that way. I'll bleed it AGAIN tonight.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 07:38:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Braking issues

William S Hart wrote:
> I have tried those one man bleeder kits ...

I actually use one of these, but not to bleed one-man. Mine allows
the fluid it catches to get sucked back in when you let the pedal
up. I want to get as much of the old fluid out as I can. I just
use it because the fluid does not flow out of the tubing when you
close the valve and has convenient fittings. I wish brake fluid
came in different colors so you could tell when the new fluid has
traveled through the system. Hmm, I wonder if food coloring and
brake fluid are compatible.

> ... a couple more shots with the cap on, and they were great ...

I dunno, this makes no sense to me either.

> ... just be careful not to let the system run dry I guess...

Been there done that. Had to pull and bench bleed the MC again.
I tried to get my daughter to watch the MC while my wife was
pumping the brakes. All I got was fluid all over the place and
a dry reservoir. Oh well, at 7 years old she doesn't yet have a
good grasp of mechanical concepts.

John LaGrone wrote:
>> You stop just fine, but as you sit there, your truck starts
>> creeping and you have to pump the brakes. Time to put on a new
>> master cylinder, don't wait for the warning light.

> ... my clue has always been that when I hit the brakes nothing
> happens...

HA, HA. John's explanation further convinces me that my MC is
good. The only failure mode I can think of would be fluid leaking
past the pistons. That would exibit the symptoms he describes.
Other than that the MC would have to be assembled wrong.

> the brake light is always on on my truck, even when everything
> is practically new, so we just pulled the bulb ...

Mine never comes on. I put a new bulb in it. On a '74 is it
supposed to come on when you turn the ignition like more modern
setups do?

> Just my 2cents

One cent change.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:44:29 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Braking issues

>> I have tried those one man bleeder kits ...
>I actually use one of these, but not to bleed one-man.

Yeah, I've done this before, kept Dad's garage floor nice, so he was
happier that way :)


> Hmm, I wonder if food coloring and
>brake fluid are compatible.
>
Yikes, I don't think I'd try it, water is bad in a braking system, and I
would suspect there is some in food coloring ... there should be some dye
available I would think though ... it was easy to tell when I got the old
stuff out on a former roommate's van ... the new stuff was yellowish, the
old stuff was black ...

>good. The only failure mode I can think of would be fluid leaking
>past the pistons. That would exibit the symptoms he describes.
>Other than that the MC would have to be assembled wrong.
>
Yeah, I tromped the brakes one time on my truck and the pedal hit, then all
the sudden it let go ... after that fluid just ran back out around the
pistons and only made a half hearted attempt at stoping me ...

>Mine never comes on. I put a new bulb in it. On a '74 is it
>supposed to come on when you turn the ignition like more modern
>setups do?
>
I would think so ... it comes on for our 69 Cougar which is less "modern"
than the trucks :) where is the sensor for your truck ? I was thinking
mine was external to the mc ...

>> Just my 2cents
>One cent change.
>
Woohooo deflation ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 11:15:25 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - timing

Manifold vacuum allows for a differnt idle mixture due to extremely advanced
timing so tip in is affected. If you are having tipin problems with one or
the other setup try the other but make sure you reset the idle mixture and
speed before testing.

I prefer the manifold vac setup and this gives you roughly 30 degrees at
idle with vac hooked up and a much leaner mixture. One thing it does is
allow for leaner idle mixture for cleaner idling, a richer accellerator pump
setting to augment the tipin circuit and drops the advance to 8 deg's (my
initial) instantly on tipin (WOT only) which is the same as ported or
gradually decreases vac timing while advancing mechanical for a more
advanced light throttle range (differnt from ported). You can make it work
either way but you do have to pay attention to the settings, they are
different for each one.

As soon as you increase the rpm the mechanical advance begins to play a part
so with ported you have the most retarded tipin (zero mechanical plus
initial with no vac) and as the throttle opens both mechanical advances and
ported vac advances when the throttle plate passes the transition port but
for the first few hundred rpms there is little change, so it remains
retarded longer whereas with manifold you imediately begin adding mechanical
advance while retarding from a more advanced setting via the vac so with
light throttle you have a more advanced tip in setting timing wise which
requires a different mixture to keep it running smooth and clean.

If you are experiencing spark knock at light throttle this could be the
cause and would be a good thing to experiment with.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hmmm... he will get advance at idle then because of the
> vacuum, but because
> its an idle state it shouldn't really change anything, all my
> tuning is
> done with this disconnected, when I hook it up, nothing
> really changes much
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:26:05 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rims and such

Jon writes:

the rim has no center section. The Star is attached to the axle and the
rim is affixed by bolts and clamps.

Commonly referred to as "Dayton" wheels, I believe.

Snip>>
.

>>What I am interested in is the Budd style F350 rim. The conversation may
have been more than a year ago I just remember someone saying they bought
new ones. Anyone remember?

That was probably me. I purchased 2 brand new ones from a local tire shop for
$55.00 ea. The salvage yards were asking that same amount for used ones, and I
could not justify paying the same for used as new.
I don't think there is any place to install the pop-top type hub caps though. I
know there isn't on mine. I installed them(the wheels) on my '76 F350 2wd
flatbed farm truck. Reason was, I was buying tires and radials were all I could
find and they would not put radials on my split rims. Even with tubes. Refused
to do it.
I have two (2) original split rims for sale if anyone is interested.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:27:25 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starting

Jon writes: >>Ford is working on this also. One added benefit if direct
injection is
there is no need for a starter. The computer looks at crank position,
piston position, then sends a shot of gas at the proper cylinder and
sparks it off. Starts the whole thing a spinning.

You serious?????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 11:32:30 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting

At 11:27 AM 6/1/99 , you wrote:
>Jon writes: >>Ford is working on this also. One added benefit if direct
>injection is
>there is no need for a starter. The computer looks at crank position,
>piston position, then sends a shot of gas at the proper cylinder and
>sparks it off. Starts the whole thing a spinning.
>
>You serious?????
>
Yes Azie, I'm afraid they are, I've heard this several places now, and I
understand all the theory behind it, just can't convince myself its
practical ... well not on a 4cylinder anyway ...8's and 6's not too much
problem, but 4's ???


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:45:09 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake lines

Mark writes: >>Is it possible that the soft pedal is caused by expansion in old
rubber
brake lines? I am considering replacing them next.

No!! These flexible lines are rubber covered steel flex. Rubber will not take
the pressure generated by a master cyl to effectively have any pressure on the
wheel cylinders, so that is not the problem. They (the flexible lines)may be
the problem, but not because of flexing or giving way to pressure, because they
are in reality steel lines, rubber covered.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 11:49:21 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - brake lines

>Mark writes: >>Is it possible that the soft pedal is caused by expansion in
>old
>rubber
>brake lines? I am considering replacing them next.
>
>No!! These flexible lines are rubber covered steel flex. Rubber will not
take
>the pressure generated by a master cyl to effectively have any pressure on the
>wheel cylinders, so that is not the problem. They (the flexible lines)may be
>the problem, but not because of flexing or giving way to pressure, because
they
>are in reality steel lines, rubber covered.
>

Are you sure on this ? I did 3 different brake hoses last year, all of
them were rubber all the way through ... 'course that could be why they
failed. I am actually replacing the front right on my truck in the next
couple of days, I'll cut it apart and see if it looks different than the
others I did ... I was reading a thing on stainless braided lines that said
the tests were pretty bad for anything steel which was why the braided
hoses were very hard to get DOT approval... though there are a couple out
there.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:53:54 -0700
From: "Brandt, Chris"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Starting

It will work on 4 too....any old timers on the list ever start a model T ? I
was shown a trick that was pretty similar in effect to what the discussion
is about. Model T's don't usually have starters (option on the later
ones...) and it is pretty uncoll to have to get out and hand crank your
hotrod in front of the date ...so the enterprising young Fordaphile would
hand crank the 4 untill it was just ready to fire. Now I am not sure how the
next part worked but there was enough residual charge left in the coils ????
to ignite the charge when the key was turned. Little sucker would fire right
up....

CB

> -----Original Message-----
> From:William S Hart [SMTP:wish iastate.edu]
> Sent:Tuesday, June 01, 1999 5:33 PM
> To:61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting
>
> At 11:27 AM 6/1/99 , you wrote:
> >Jon writes: >>Ford is working on this also. One added benefit if direct
> >injection is
> >there is no need for a starter. The computer looks at crank position,
> >piston position, then sends a shot of gas at the proper cylinder and
> >sparks it off. Starts the whole thing a spinning.
> >
> >You serious?????
> >
> Yes Azie, I'm afraid they are, I've heard this several places now, and I
> understand all the theory behind it, just can't convince myself its
> practical ... well not on a 4cylinder anyway ...8's and 6's not too much
> problem, but 4's ???
>
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Links
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 12:07:13 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: books on rebuilding a 390

> Jeff,
> I am not going to tell you that Autozone or any other
> auto store ever sold a bad engine, but I will tell you
> that those places are run by accountants whose
> interest is the Bottom Line, ROI (Return on
> Investment) and Dollar Volume. They are OK for oil and
> filters and new aftermarket parts, but I hesitate when
> I have to purchse something that has been
> remanufactured from any of them.

I just went to work for Auto Zone as a Management Trainee, thanks to
everyone for their concern during my period of "difficulty." I hope it
works out to be a good opportunity.

Most reman engines are junk. I've said it before, but just go into the
back room of the store and look at the cores. That's where your new
engine is coming from. 99 percent have been hot, and that's the worst
core you can get. A worn out one you know the history on is always
better.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 13:27:56 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake flex line cost

William writes: >>I stopped at one auto parts store and they didn't have a
listing ... another one had 6, 2 for the drums I have, but wanted $40 for
the hose ... this seems a touch high compared with the ones we replaced
last year on other vehicles ... anyone else have similar problems and know
where to get good hoses ?

Sounds a bit ridiculous to me. However $40.00 might be cheap rather than an
accident!!!!!! I think (?) I gave around $17.00 each for a set for a 2wd F150
not too very long ago.
At any rate, if you're losing fluid you definately need a new line.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 13:38:19 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vinyl Paint?

Does anyone have a good recommendation for vinyl paint? I want to do an
armrest for a 78.....the body paint place said they could mix some for me for
about $25. I found someone else who carries vinyl spray paint cans, but they
said that dark green wasn't available from that manufacturer (I didn't really
believe them, but I wasn't in the mood to quarrel with them)....

Anyway, any ideas?

CJ
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 12:51:48 -0700
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 77 Ford Van

Sky: A351 Cleveland has the fuel pump mounted to the block rather than
the front cover. Valves are canted and water into manifold is
different. Can't figure 3d tank, which one fills it and where does it
feed to HTH

Al
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 13:59:56 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vinyl Paint?

What about Eastwood? I know they carry the product, don't know about the color.
www.eastwoodco.com

- -Ted




Does anyone have a good recommendation for vinyl paint? I want to do an
armrest for a 78.....the body paint place said they could mix some for me for
about $25. I found someone else who carries vinyl spray paint cans, but they
said that dark green wasn't available from that manufacturer (I didn't really
believe them, but I wasn't in the mood to quarrel with them)....

Anyway, any ideas?

CJ
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:06:36 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Starting

>It will work on 4 too....any old timers on the list ever start a model T ?

Nope, hand crank an F20 tractor quite often though ...

>so the enterprising young Fordaphile would
>hand crank the 4 untill it was just ready to fire. Now I am not sure how the
>next part worked but there was enough residual charge left in the coils ????
>to ignite the charge when the key was turned. Little sucker would fire right
>up....
>
This I understand, however you still need the Fordaphile to set the crank
correctly, without a starter of some sort, there's no way to set this
exactly where you need it ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:12:24 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake flex line cost

>William writes: >>I stopped at one auto parts store and they didn't have a
>listing ... another one had 6, 2 for the drums I have, but wanted $40 for
>the hose ... this seems a touch high compared with the ones we replaced
>last year on other vehicles ... anyone else have similar problems and know
>where to get good hoses ?
>
>Sounds a bit ridiculous to me. However $40.00 might be cheap rather than an
>accident!!!!!! I think (?) I gave around $17.00 each for a set for a 2wd F150
>not too very long ago.
>At any rate, if you're losing fluid you definately need a new line.
>
I've been running this debate over and over in my head, risk it blowing
out, or replace it ... I decided to replace it. My current plans however
include swapping to front disc brakes this summer sometime, and I don't
NEED the truck as I have another car to drive ... if it was 20 or 30 I
wouldn't even question doing it, but 40's starting to get up there a bit,
especially if I decide to do all three of them ... since one's going the
others can't be far behind.... I finally found one at a place I used to
work, it'll probably be 30 or less through them, just hope its the right
one, he listed 3 different "styles" based on serial numbers, mine was the
one that didn't....hey wait a minute mine is wrong, boy do I feel dumb, the
one we ordered is probably the right one ... I guess I need to go by the
serial number on the frame, not the one on the cab since the cab's been
swapped huh ? *Bill shoots himself in the foot again*

THe moral of the story was that even though there were 3 styles listed, the
1st and 3rd were the same part number, this is the same store that told me
on Sat. that I was out of luck, sometimes it helps to someone who knows
what's going on and not the newbie.

Thanks Azie, and everyone for puttin up with me ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:13:17 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vinyl Paint?

>Anyway, any ideas?
>
No, but let me know what you find out! I will need to do this in the near?
future probably!


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 19:23:43 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4412

Hi,
The starting adjustment is 1.5 full turns out after it is gently bottomed
out. I always use 3 half turn because it is easier to keep track of. If
your spark plugs are running at a dark tan, leave the carb adjustment
alone. If it hesitates when you step on the gas, the accelerator pump is
probably not contributing to the cause. Make sure it is being summoned
when you tramp on the gas pedal and if so be sure it is adjusted correctly.
That's the thing that shoots gas into the throat of the carb- try it when
the engine is not running. If there is no response, you should go to Auto
Zone and buy a rebuild kit!
Good Luck,
Tim
1966 F100, 352 SWB, P/S, O/D w/3 on the tree
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 18:43:53 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - brake lines

William wrote:

I was reading a thing on stainless braided lines that said
>the tests were pretty bad for anything steel which was why the braided
>hoses were very hard to get DOT approval... though there are a couple out
>there.

Okay so what gives with braided steel hoses??? I just bought a set for
the frame to axle in front and the
frame to axle in rear. Elaborate please becasue I still have the entire
braking system to redo including lines, hoses, drums etc.

As always, Thanks!

Stu
Nuke GM!

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 20:45:09 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

Here is the deal: I need to buy a timing gear set, lifters and cam for my
1966 F-250 6 cylinder 240 cid. The VIN code for the engine is A. My parts
guy wants to know if it is the light duty or heavy duty motor. None of my
resources differentiates bw a LD or HD 240 only the 300. Anybody know the
answer to this. If there is a difference what are the identifiers?

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 17:54:13 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vinyl Paint?

Old trick I knew about was to add 1 teaspoon of cod liver oil to a quart
of lacquer.... works wonders makes the paint plyable....
Mike in Burien

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 20:32:09 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

Thom,

It is my understanding the HD inline 6 motors are nodular cast. How to ID
them is another story.
My book shows it as code A for gas motors and code 1 (one) for low
compression motors.
Would the code 1 be the HD motor? My guess is no, why put a low
compression motor in a work horse?
Did they ever intentionally put a HD motor in an F-350 or lighter truck?
Not to my knowledge but I have been known to wrong many times! hehehehe
You still don;t know any more now than you did. Sorry man!

Tony the inline 6 guru, where are you????

Stu
Nuke GM!
(website is down at the moment)


>Here is the deal: I need to buy a timing gear set, lifters and cam for my
>1966 F-250 6 cylinder 240 cid. The VIN code for the engine is A. My
parts
>guy wants to know if it is the light duty or heavy duty motor. None of my
>resources differentiates bw a LD or HD 240 only the 300. Anybody know the
>answer to this. If there is a difference what are the identifiers?
>
>Stock Man
>1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
>1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
>
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>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 23:25:05 -0400
From: tony
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 240 cid Question

Stu Varner wrote:

> Thom,
>
> It is my understanding the HD inline 6 motors are nodular cast. How to ID
> them is another story.
> My book shows it as code A for gas motors and code 1 (one) for low
> compression motors.
> Would the code 1 be the HD motor? My guess is no, why put a low
> compression motor in a work horse?
> Did they ever intentionally put a HD motor in an F-350 or lighter truck?
> Not to my knowledge but I have been known to wrong many times! hehehehe
> You still don;t know any more now than you did. Sorry man!
>
> Tony the inline 6 guru, where are you????
>

Tony has been sick in bed for the past 3 days with allergies kicking his royal
butt and the flu riding shotgun. I would like to thow in the mix that I agree
with Stu on what he has said here-- and it's to my understanding that the HD
I-6's were nodular cast but I really have no clue on application. Of the 2 HD
6's I have seen, they have cast ribbing in the lower part of the block.

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony (MINE STILL WORKS!! 8-P (HACK!! COUGH!)




>
> Stu
> Nuke GM!
> (website is down at the moment)
>
> >Here is the deal: I need to buy a timing gear set, lifters and cam for my
> >1966 F-250 6 cylinder 240 cid. The VIN code for the engine is A. My
> parts
> >guy wants to know if it is the light duty or heavy duty motor. None of my
> >resources differentiates bw a LD or HD 240 only the 300. Anybody know the
> >answer to this. If there is a difference what are the identifiers?
> >
> >Stock Man
> >1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)....


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