61-79-list-digest Saturday, May 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 182



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 or 390?????
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - Antiseize
RE: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance
FTE 61-79 - Discolored bearings
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...
RE: FTE 61-79 - Antiseize
FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 project that has mutated into physics class
FTE 61-79 - engine swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rims
RE: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 project that has mutated into physics cla ss
Re: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...
FTE 61-79 - physics class
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - Need To Sell Fast!!!
FTE 61-79 - Rim suggestions
FTE 61-79 - steering column needed.
FTE 61-79 - Re: Rims
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rims
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rims

=======================================================================

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 04:27:32 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - timing

> I have a 77 351M in a F250 4X. I ping going up hills or anytime I punch the
> gas. What is my timing supposed to be? My sticker on the valve cover is
> gone. I thought timing would be a good place to start.
> Thanks-Brian

You should look at your plugs first. If you have one fighting oil, that
will cause a ping, just pull it and clean it off once in a while. If
they appear white then either the timing needs to come down , or you
need more fuel. You might check the EGR also, if it's hanging up it can
cause a ping also..
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 04:34:05 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance

> I've just finished installing the pistons for my new 390 and the
> connecting rods for #3 and #7 don't have enough side clearance (less than
> .001"). According to Steve Christ's book, the face of the rod must be
> resurfaced. Wouldn't the engine need to be rebalanced after removing .012"
> off of either #3 or #7, or .006" off of both?
>
> The engine used to be a 360,.. I purchased the crankshaft and the connecting
> rods (C7AE B) from the same machinist that did all the work.

Did you get your rods resized when they were machined? If so then find
the rod with the narrowest big end and swap them around. If you didn't
get them resized, you can't do this, of course.
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 07:59:04 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 or 390?????

You're right, but you can't tell a 352,360,390,410,427 or 428 apart by that
number. That number will either be 352 for the FE block or a reverse stamp 105
for the FT block. (Same block with some minor strentgh mods. The only way to
tell what FE motor you have is what "Danger" has said. I measured the crank
throw with a wood dowel on mine. It was a 360.

- -Ted







The block numbers are located on the left hand side of the block, in
front of the first freeze plug on that side.

Bryan












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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 07:49:26 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

>> Also, when you put the light on to see the timing, remember to pull off the
>> vacuum hose to the distributor.
>
>This is what everyone (person and book) keeps telling me. But I never saw
>the vacuum change the ignition timing at static rpm, it only works
>when you punch the gas. Might as well leave it on.

If you never see it change you need to have it checked ... there are also 2
types of vacuum that you can use ... manifold, which will always affect the
timing, or ported, which will affect it only after the throttle is cracked
a ways ... from the sounds of it you have ported, though its still a good
idea to pull it and plug it, just to be sure that you don't get any leaks
or anything with it... also if you are having trouble with your truck not
running right, you might try switching to the manifold vacuum source ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:35:50 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Antiseize

Marko writes: >>This way you will always be able to get it out
without borrowing a chisel from Azie.

I resemble that remark!!! Hey !!! Worked for me. I usually have better
control in my old age (and that just happened last year), but that one really
got to me. I WAS NOT going to let that danged dist get the best of me.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:47:46 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance

Before you get too excited......the bearings should be installed dry but the
crank should be installed "wet". You should make every effort to avoid
getting oil behind the bearing inserts when you install them. Oil may creep
behind them eventually where ever they do not have good metal to metal
contact but the initial install should have this in mind. You should also
pre-install the crank dry for tollerancing with plastigage to get accurate
measurments but don't rotate the crank without oil on it. If you install
the mains first, dry for measuring and then wet for finish assy befor doing
anything with the rods you can continue without back tracking in the
process. Each assy will require at least two torquings to get it right.

The reason is heat exchange and bearing clearance. The inserts "must" have
metal to metal contact for proper heat transfer from the rods to the crank
where most of the combustion heat is dissipated into the oil. An oil film
on the back of the insert can trap air and prevent it from fully seating as
well which may cause mis-tolerancing.

1..Dry all bore surfaces and bearing backs very carefully before installing.
2..Install them carefully making sure they are fully seated.
3..Oil the crank and install it being carefull not to disturb any of the
inserts.

This procedure will lub the crank sufficiently for assembly purposes and
then before actually cranking the engine make sure you pre-lube with a drill
by spinning the oil pump before installing the dizzy.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> the small fee of a new bearing (damaged notch), I was able to properly
> assemble with .015" side clearance..... Woohooo!
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:52:55 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Discolored bearings

Mark writes: >>I have seen bearings that are discolored. Kind of looks like
the
bearing surface is burned. They otherwise look fine. Are those
useable? Are there different degrees of discoloration where some
is normal but really dark is bad?

Do not use discolored bearings. Heat causes discoloration, and heat will soften
the hardness of both the bearing and the surface the bearings run on (races).
In a lawnmower - Maybe, but not in a vehicle you trust with your life. Yes!
There are different degrees of discoloration, but even if they are slightly
discolored, I dispose of them. If it is lubed proberly, and not overloaded, it
will not discolor.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 10:58:38 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...

If there is "any" discoloration the bearings have be run too hot. They have
to reach annealing or temper reducing temps to change color. If they have
any blue or black that is obviously due to heat they should be replaced
IMHO.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have seen bearings that are discolored. Kind of looks like the
> bearing surface is burned. They otherwise look fine. Are those
> useable? Are there different degrees of discoloration where some
> is normal but really dark is bad?
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 11:20:01 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Antiseize

That's what I always say in my defense but the fact that you lost
control......is the same as defeat :-( I'll never admit it either but facts
is facts :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I resemble that remark!!! Hey !!! Worked for me. I
> usually have better
> control in my old age (and that just happened last year), but
> that one really
> got to me. I WAS NOT going to let that danged dist get the
> best of me.
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 10:36:48 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 project that has mutated into physics class

>>Gary's extremely accurate post snipped.

Very accurate about burning all of the air. The more air you burn, the more
of the fuel charge you burn, the bigger the bang. You can never burn all of
the fuel, though. The unburned fuel acts as lubricant for the valves. That's
why we used to have tetraethyl lead additives. Hardened seats help, but you
still have valve lubricants in the fuel recipe. Tetraethyl lead destroys
catalytic converters BTW and that is the major reason it was removed. A nice
additional advantage is that lead content in the atmosphere was lowered
also. Eventually this alone would have brought us to some type of unleaded
fuel anyway.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http//www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 08:46:08 -0700
From: "PATRICK GREEN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine swap

Looking for information on what is required to swap a 351w into an 85 F150
currently equipped with an I6 300 and a C6.
Specifically, will the current bell housing mate up or will I need something
special? Any help will appreciated!
Thanks in advance..

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 10:45:57 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine swap

>Looking for information on what is required to swap a 351w into an 85 F150
>currently equipped with an I6 300 and a C6.
>Specifically, will the current bell housing mate up or will I need something
>special? Any help will appreciated!

Wow, a C6 in a half ton with a 6cyl? Might want to check that again ...
not sure what bellhousing the 300 uses either ... don't forget your
radiator too, the stock one is probably not large enough, especially if you
are hopping up the 351 at all ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 11:51:12 -0400
From: "Tony Marino"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine swap

> Wow, a C6 in a half ton with a 6cyl? Might want to check that again ...
> not sure what bellhousing the 300 uses either ...

Same as a Small block (302/351w)

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 10:59:22 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

Bill said;
also if you are having trouble with your truck not
>running right, you might try switching to the manifold vacuum source ...

Please explain how this could be done. Wouldn'nt switching frm ported to
manifold require a different vacuum adv? Or if he has an adjustable he's
going to have to recalibrate it isn't he?
Smeck,
79 F100


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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 12:02:51 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?

There should be no free play in the pedal/booster linkage but there is in
the brake mechanics (shoes/pads etc.) themselve which is what you feel when
you start the engine. There is also valving in some designes in the stem
itself but the movement is very insignificant so should not be noticeable
unless some parts are damaged or missing etc..

As you said, the rod needs to be adjusted short enough to allow the pistons
of the MC to return to rest but there should be no free play. With engine
off you should be able to feel any free play in this rod by pressing on the
brake pedal (engine off). You can also get a pretty good "feel" when you
install the MC to the booster, the flange should just touch as you feel some
resistance in the rod (this is how I adjust them). The small discrepancy
plus or minus here is easily absorbed by the margin to the bleeder holes in
the MC and adequate pedal travel in most cases so it's not that critical but
should be pretty close to zero free play if you can get it there.

I love the feel of the brakes in my PU since I cleaned up all the linkage
and lubed it and adjusted the rod. It has about 1" or less free travel and
then comes up hard, very hard as the shoes and pads make contact, I love it
:-)

The bronco has the same identical sytem but has some mush even when
everything is right but is still pretty firm. I attribute most of this to
the dana 44 brake system. The PU is two wheel drive so has fewer parts to
move when brakes are applied.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> When I start the motor with my foot lightly on the pedal, I can feel
> the booster pull the pedal down. I am assuming it is taking up any
> freeplay.
>
> I played around with this adjustment, checking the pedal distance
> from the floor and how much freeplay I have. I started out at
> 0.940" and ended up at the high end of the 0.980 - 0.995" range
> listed in a Chilton's manual. I don't know if these numbers are
> correct because it does not list different specs for different
> years from '71-'78.
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 11:27:22 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

> also if you are having trouble with your truck not
>>running right, you might try switching to the manifold vacuum source ...
>
>Please explain how this could be done. Wouldn'nt switching frm ported to
>manifold require a different vacuum adv? Or if he has an adjustable he's
>going to have to recalibrate it isn't he?

Not necessarily, the only difference between ported and non ported should
be idle conditions, everywhere else you will have the same vacuum ...
because as soon as you crack the throttle there is vacuum at the port on
the ported vacuum. Some vehicles like ported others like manifold. I
think this is usually a problem if you are having trouble idling, or have
an off the line stutter or something ... also hard to tune with vacuum
gauges hooked to ported :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:44:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rims

What Bolt pattern do the rims have?





- ---monkey352 juno.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of
crome rims would look
> really good with a red '62 F100?? Thanks.......
>
> Jonathan
> '62 F100 223 Straight Six
> South Carolina
>
>
___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free
Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 12:53:38 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 project that has mutated into physics cla ss

In case anyone misunderstands, what this means is that to burn all the air,
even more fuel must be "wasted" to ensure there is 1 molecule of fuel for
every 15 molecules of air and that they are close enough in proximity to
combine in that ratio to "all" air molecules. (don't get technical on me
about the molecule thing OK? It's just by way of comparison :-))

What this means to the average streeter is that we will never see full power
and only see significantly more than stock if we can be happy with very poor
fuel economy and also change our oil very often due to fuel contamination
(which is just another good reason to burn alchol). Anything you can do to
improve the fuel mixture distribution to the cylinders and maintain fuel
suspension in the air all the way past the valves and then keep it in
properly dispersed suspension in the cylinders under compression will
increase power even with lean mixtures (which is what hot air intake at
cruise does and the hot spot in the plenum does) and in fact if this could
be done perfectly we would see dramatic improvements in both power and
economy to the tune of 40 mpg 240 net HP in one test I read about with a 4
cyl engine as I recall (Smoky Yanuk).

This mixture suspension problem is the subject of considerable research by
auto makers and racers and is still way untapped at this point by our
limited technology. It can be done pretty well in the lab but the equipment
is too costly to apply to any production application so........:-(

Sequential, port injection is an outgrowth of this research. Theoretically
the air can't get out of suspension with itself and the injectors under high
pressure evenly mix the fuel with the incoming stream of air as it enters
the cylinder for complete combustion. Of course we all know this is just
thory because in practice it simply isn't much better than a good intake and
carb design mixture wise due partly to the location of the injectors,
deflection of the valve opening and imperfect timing of the spray with the
moving air column just to name a few problems.

I guess what I'm saying here and the point of this post is that there will
always be room for improvement and the more we understand about how it
works, the physics of it, the closer we can come to our personal ideals :-)

HAHAHAHAHA!, just notice the subject line :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Very accurate about burning all of the air. The more air you
> burn, the more
> of the fuel charge you burn, the bigger the bang. You can
> never burn all of
> the fuel, though.
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 12:56:44 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls

In a message dated 5/26/99 10:43:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
davewalbeck hotmail.com writes:


1- Pulled drums and checked for lining- just fine
2- Adjusted brakes (Front and Rear)
3- checked king pins, wheel bearings
4- Replaced return springs for brakes and re adjusted
5- checked air pressure in tires
6- checked for broken springs, shocks, screwy steering linkage
7- inspected brake hoses- may need replaced but not sure
externally they look ok, minor cracking but that's about it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I feel stupid asking but I need other
input. Thanx all
>>
You did check for a bad strut bushing? My 1975 pulled when the bushing got
very loose.
Burt Hill Kennewick Wa 1972 F250 4x4 460
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 13:46:40 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...

In a message dated 5/27/99 11:57:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
draco pacifier.com writes:


bearing surface is burned. They otherwise look fine. Are those
useable? Are there different degrees of discoloration where some
is normal but really dark is bad?
>>
It certainly is not good. In order to get the discoloration the temperature
of the bearing had to be very high. The question is was the temperature high
enough long enough to allow the metal crystal structure to change and lose
hardness. If the hardness is lessened the bearing is toast. Of course the
bearing could be fine, but you are taking a risk to reuse them and I think
your reasoning is correct the darker the more risk. More important is what
caused the bearing to get hot? And is that problem corrected? (Load too
great, lack of grease, or running clearance set too tight can cause the
bearings overheat.)
Burt Hill Kennewick WA F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 12:57:23 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - physics class

>This mixture suspension problem is the subject of considerable research by
>auto makers and racers and is still way untapped at this point by our
>limited technology. It can be done pretty well in the lab but the equipment
>is too costly to apply to any production application so........:-(
>
>Sequential, port injection is an outgrowth of this research. Theoretically
>the air can't get out of suspension with itself and the injectors under high
>pressure evenly mix the fuel with the incoming stream of air as it enters
>the cylinder for complete combustion. Of course we all know this is just
>thory because in practice it simply isn't much better than a good intake and
>carb design mixture wise due partly to the location of the injectors,
>deflection of the valve opening and imperfect timing of the spray with the
>moving air column just to name a few problems.
>
VW has developed a direct injected GASOLINE motor ! It was putting out
some pretty impressive numbers and was scheduled for production in Europe
in the next year or so ... I think this is part of the reason that Diesel's
do so much better for mileage with power ...

A well tuned carb will match fuel injection, but a perfectly tuned
injection system will be VERY tough to beat ... they have that nasty
advantage of being able to change their mixtures on the fly, so when you're
just cruising along you can get better mileage, and when you floor it you
get worse mileage and better power ... the whole point of the WOT doing the
table things and ignoring the O2 sensors ... anyway who knows what the
future holds for this area ...
Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 13:13:52 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

>> also if you are having trouble with your truck not
>>>running right, you might try switching to the manifold vacuum source ...
>>
>>Please explain how this could be done. Wouldn'nt switching frm ported to
>>manifold require a different vacuum adv? Or if he has an adjustable he's
>>going to have to recalibrate it isn't he?
>
>Not necessarily, the only difference between ported and non ported should
>be idle conditions, everywhere else you will have the same vacuum ...

agreed :) at idle his dizzy gets no adv ..............so if he re-connects
to manifold source he will get full adv at idle ?? (and less adv as
throttle opens?) Won't this require a different diaphram? Seems to me that
this would also envolve some detailed re-tuning? The reason I'm curious is I
would like to try using manifold source but have been reluctant to try cuz
I'll be back at square one again as far as dialing in the vacuum adv curve.
This took a couple of weeks for me to accomplish and the ball of my foot has
been pretty happy these days!
I still have a very slight hesitation that might be eliminated if I used
manifold source so that's why I'm asking.

>because as soon as you crack the throttle there is vacuum at the port on
>the ported vacuum. Some vehicles like ported others like manifold. I
>think this is usually a problem if you are having trouble idling, or have
>an off the line stutter or something ... also hard to tune with vacuum
>gauges hooked to ported :)
>
>
>Just my 2cents
>
>wish
>
>Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
>'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
>'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 13:39:59 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

>>Not necessarily, the only difference between ported and non ported should
>>be idle conditions, everywhere else you will have the same vacuum ...
>
>agreed :) at idle his dizzy gets no adv ..............so if he re-connects
>to manifold source he will get full adv at idle ?? (and less adv as
>throttle opens?) Won't this require a different diaphram? Seems to me that
>this would also envolve some detailed re-tuning?

Hmmm... he will get advance at idle then because of the vacuum, but because
its an idle state it shouldn't really change anything, all my tuning is
done with this disconnected, when I hook it up, nothing really changes much
... not saying my dist is necessarily good, but it shouldn't really change
things much, if it does, then you're probably not at optimum to start with
... why would this require a different diaphram? I don't quite understand
this, as soon as a load is put on the motor, the vacuum drops to 0 (or very
low at least), and as long as you're not idling, your ported vacuum should
have exactly the same thing the manifold vacuum has. The only difference
may be the amount of vacuum, but even that shouldn't change ... this
should only affect changes from idle to throttle and nothing else on the
"curve" because of the way the ported works. I could be off on this, but
from the descriptions we've had floating around, this is how it sounds like
it works. I don't think you'll hurt anything by trying it to see what
happens, if you don't like it you can always change back, just document
your settings and how much you change things if you try and clean it up
while its changed ...

documentation is a pain, but it makes things SOO much easier to set back to
a known state. I always find myself going back to factory settings when
things get out of whack too far...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 16:12:24 -0500
From: "ben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Need To Sell Fast!!!

My dad bought me a 1977 F-250 Camper Special as a parts truck for my '79
F-150. When we got it to the house we agreed that after I was done with it
the frame would have to be sold or trashed as soon as possible. It has been
quite a while since I finished taking the body off, and my parents are
getting mad at me because my dad has to park in the street. And my mom
doesn't like it sitting in the drive way. So if anyone is interested it is
in Madison Wisconsin, there is some info below. Also pictures are available.

'77 F-250 Camper Special 2wd frame, F&R sway bars, Dana 60 w/new
brakes(3.54,L.S., 5300lb), Factory over load springs, comes with aux. tank,
steering box, BB pattern C6, 460(for parts), drive shafts, spare tire, dual
exhaust pipes and mufflers(great shape), frame is in great shape, front
susp. might need alignment. $400 obo Email Stevee itis.com







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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:20:58 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rim suggestions

monkey352 juno.com said:
> Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of crome rims would look
> really good with a red '62 F100?? Thanks.......
> Jonathan
> '62 F100 223 Straight Six
==

My personal pick would be steel rims painted or powdercoated white with
small chrome dogdish covers, whitewall tires. Red wheels would also look
good. You could add chrome trim rims, too. I personally like a classic look
and think that the '62 would look nice with that set-up. ... just my
suggestion.

- -don

- ---
Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon
Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 23:49:14 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - steering column needed.

i have a friend that has a 69 swb ford, he's changing it from a three speed
to an automatic, does anyone have a colmn and linkage for an automatic?

thanks, jeff grant
jjjjjgrant aol.com
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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 20:49:05 -0700
From: Art Verling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rims

Jonathan,
I have 265 50 R15 on the front and 295 50 R15 on the rear. I purchased
the tires and rims at Les Schaub tires. You can see how they look just
follow this link:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1964_f100_2.html
I receive complements on how smooth my truck rides, but without power
steering my arms look like poppeye's now and that causes a whole new set
of problems.

Art Verling
64 F100
AV ix.netcom.com
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 00:13:00 EDT
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rims

I can simpathise with you and that steering . I've got 10.50x15 front,
11.50x15 rear on my 64 !!! Why not try "power steering ? A 78/79 2wd donor....


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