61-79-list-digest Friday, May 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 181



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Six Lug Rims For 65 F350 Dually
FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...
RE: FTE 61-79 - King pin installation made easy :-)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange
FTE 61-79 - timing
RE: FTE 61-79 -
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
RE: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 project
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Six Lug Rims For 65 F350 Dually
RE: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls
RE: FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...
FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance
Re: FTE 61-79 - "New 75 Supercab"
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 quandry
Re: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls
FTE 61-79 - Brakes
FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 quandry
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - "New 75 Supercab"
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - anti sieze
Re: FTE 61-79 - anti sieze
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange
RE: FTE 61-79 - Six Lug Rims For 65 F350 Dually
RE: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance
RE: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance
FTE 61-79 - Re: Insurance was: Vehicle Appraisal
FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance
FTE 61-79 - Last chance...!
FTE 61-79 - Dizzy update
Re: FTE 61-79 - Six Lug Rims For 65 F350 Dually
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Insurance was: Vehicle Appraisal
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - 360 or 390?????
Re: FTE 61-79 - "New 75 Supercab"
FTE 61-79 - Rims
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rims
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 or 390?????
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - Re: 72 F100 pulls
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 or 390?????
FTE 61-79 - Re: "New 75 Supercab"

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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:52:32 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Six Lug Rims For 65 F350 Dually

I remember someone on this list bought new six lug rims for a 65 F350
dually. I think it was a year ago or so. Does anyone remember where they
got them? I tried checking the archives to no avail. Anybody?

Also how do you check the archives for just the 61-79 list? When I run a
search I get stuff from all the boards. There was a conversation about
the above rims I am trying to find and I have to wade through a lot of
other lists stuff. Any suggestions?

Jon E. Purut
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:31:22 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...

My wife buys them for me a Wal Mart. She pays around 2 bucks for one and
it is worth it. She gets the GE SAF-T-GARD RUFFf-N-TUFF Teflon Coated
Bulb, 75 watts. I was going through a bulb every 15 minutes in my trouble
light until she bought me one of those. Lasts much Longer. Make sure you
get the coated bulb. I dropped my light by accident from about 6 feet and
the bulb shattered. The coating kept the pieces together and did not
expose the filament. Kept me from being electrocuted!!!

Jon E. Purut
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/Chelley
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jcpurut
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 06:59:51 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - King pin installation made easy :-)

Dave, here's the scoop:

1..Remove all wheel and rotor parts down to the spindle

2..Remove the caps on both ends of the pin (with the zerks in them)

3..Remove the cross pin (retainer pin)

4-A..If you have a compressor and air chisel and ACC torch you can do the
following:
a..Heat the end of the I beam (not the spindle bushing area) evenly and at
no time should it get hot enough to glow red, but it needs to be hot
b..Using a flat ended punch about 6" long, drive the pin out the bottom
using the air chisel. If it does not begin moving immediately, apply more
heat but again do not get it red.

4-B..If you don't have one or the other of the above then you will have to
press them out and personally I would remove the I beams and pay someone to
press them out rather than make a press which may or may not work. In any
case press them out and go to the next step

5..Using a brake hone, clean out the hole in the I beam so the pins will
slip in easily but don't overdo it, they need to be a fairly snug slip fit,
no rattles etc. and don't get the holes bell mouthed (if you need
instructions on using a brake hone properly let me know)

6..If you want to invest in something invest in a bushing punch set (about
$20) and punch the old bushings out of the spindles.

7..Clean everything up, scrape off the old grease and rust etc. so you have
a clean part to work with (I sand blasted mine but cover the spindle first)

8..Use the same bushing punch set to push the new bushings into place and
press them in so there is at least 1/8" left on the inside (toward the
I-beam end) to allow for the inner seal. You can probably use the outside
threaded part as a gauge, press them in just far enough to get the caps to
fully tighten down, no more or the seal won't fit.

9..Take them to a shop and have them reamed, along with the pins so they can
fit them and let them know you will be willing to pay for any extra time
needed to do a good job so please take your time (I won't go into the
details of my last, loose pin job :-( )

10..Press the seel into the upper side of the spindle, just flush, leaving a
small gap between the bushing and seal. This is important because if you
press it tight against the bushing you won't be able to get grease through
it (guess how I learned that trick????)

11..When you install them, place the bearing on the bottom with the open end
down to allow grease to enter, Lubricate the pin with Anti-Seize and slip
the pin part way into the bearing and slide the whole works on to the beam
end and slip the pin into place.

12..Check for axial play (up and down) and if any is noted, remove the pin,
place one or more shims as needed (thin flat washers) under the bearing,
between the bearing and spindle, push the pin part way in and reinstall and
check for axial play again. Do this untill you are satisfied it is right.

13..As you put the pin in pay attention to it's alignement so you don't have
to work so hard later to get the retainer in and remember the notch goes up
for proper alignment.

14..Lub the retainer with anti-seize and install it, pulling it tight but
remember it can be broken so don't over tighten it. If you are not sure
about your ability to "feel" the correct tightness, clean the threads and
use blue locktite on the threads and take your best guess.

If you follow these stepps exactly as I've outlined them you will experience
the easiest king pin install of your life! :-) It took me 3 trys to get
this ironed out. My last one was done exactly this way and the pins came
right out, the brake hone made installation a breeze and the anti-seize
guarantees that my next replacement will not even require the torch :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> If I really
> should have the torch, I'm tempted to take the press and the
> truck to the
> garage

> - I went with the metal bushings rather than nylon even
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 04:13:27 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange

I have been in this situation and could not find a used distributor for
the right price for a 390.

I suggest to all......

You can swap out the breaker plate and the center that holds the rotor
from points ignition system for any duraspark II as long as the
distributor turns in the same direction. all you need to do is cut out
the hole from the original wire (change it to a slot). and pick up the
correct cap rotor and intermediate cap. (unless you dont want people to
see the duraspark cap you can still use the original cap and rotor.)

HARLEY A PUTNAM wrote:
>
> Hi folks, just a quick question...I have a 1973 429 engine, and was
> wondering which motors were candidates for getting a duraspark distributor
> so that I can convert this critter to electronic ignition. Any help
> appreciated!
>
> The Dirtyman
>
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 11:17:20 GMT
From: "Van ster"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - timing

I have a 77 351M in a F250 4X. I ping going up hills or anytime I punch the
gas. What is my timing supposed to be? My sticker on the valve cover is
gone. I thought timing would be a good place to start.
Thanks-Brian


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 07:28:24 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 -

You are correct John, sorry. I was only looking at the velocity part of it.
Of course when the volume increases with no other outside influence the
pressure "has" to drop :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Sorry, Gary, not in this universe. The same mass of a
> compressable fluid
> will fill any volume it is introduced into. When you go from a small
> container to a large container, pressure drops and heat is
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 13:41:37 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

A place to start is around 6 deg. BTC,,,, but I would suggest you retard
the timing until the ping problem goes away, a little by little. The rotor
turns the opposite of the clock, so turn it a little the same way and it
will be retarded. Then, put on a light, and see what the timing actually
is, if much later than 6 deg. BTC something else is wrong.
Also, when you put the light on to see the timing, remember to pull off the
vacuum hose to the distributor.

The problem could also be dirt in the carburator or other carb. problem, or
some emission controll stuff that has gone bad.


Bill


- ---------
> From: Van ster
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - timing
> Date: 27. mai 1999 13:17
>
> I have a 77 351M in a F250 4X. I ping going up hills or anytime I punch
the
> gas. What is my timing supposed to be? My sticker on the valve cover is

> gone. I thought timing would be a good place to start.
> Thanks-Brian
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 08:13:57 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 project

It's velocity through the valve opening that is important. Port velocity is
whatever it is and of course more is better there too but if you have to
compromise somewhere it's better to have fuel drop out in the port next to
the valve where it can be picked up by turbulant air than in the middle of
the intake runners.

In any case I was wrong about the pressure, it drops when the area becomes
larger since the same volume is flowing into it but velocity does drop. The
big issue here is the edges of the head surface causing a reversal of flow
on the outer layers of the stream which disrupts the flow, reducing the
velocity and thus allowing more fuel to drop out as well as reducing the
pressure at the valve which is where you really want it.

If the difference between the ports and runners is large then beveling will
not be the best solution but if it's very small such as simple mismatch of
similar sized holes then matching is called for and will be a good solution.
What I'm talking about is something on the order of 351C, 4v on 2v heads
etc.. It's all relative so use your own judgement but remember that large
differences will not work well in either direction but if you must fudge
it's better to go from small to large :-)

Also, if you need to "bevel" the edges, make the bevel as long as possible
to ruduce the angle of incidence to the stream which reflects the molecules
back into the stream and causes the disruption of flow etc.. If you resolve
the forces involved I believe you will find some of the molecules being
deflected but stil flowing with the stream but across the main flow at some
angle reducing their axial velocity and interfering with the axial flow of
the stream and some will actually be "reflected" rather than "deflected" so
that they actually reverse direction even when encountering a smoothed angle
surface which reinforces the idea that small into big is better since any
reflection in that case goes in the direction you want it to, toward the
valve :-)

As to hot air intake, use two snorkles, both with hot air valves :-) Trust
me, fully atomized fuel burns much cleaner than cold, large droplets, easily
making up for any imagined loss in HP due to less compression etc.. :-)
Racers dump raw fuel into the cylinders to ensure complete burning of all
"AIR" not fuel. Air makes up 93% of the charge and so is the most critical
part of the chemical chain which must be utilized for best efficiency but in
a street vehicle we waste some of the air to gain economy. Less over all
mixture volume with better molecular homoginization makes more power with
less fuel. Somewhere there is a compromise that make each one of us happy
:-) Smokey Yanuk proved that hot air can make more power with less fuel
when properly compressed and introduced so, again it's all relative :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Also my machinist talked about matching the gaskets at least if the
> difference was too much ... he seemed to think that would fix
> things up

> you Michigan people thinkin its cold all year 'round ... :)
> Just kidding,
> but this works well in the winter, unfortunately doesn't do much but
> restrict intake charges in the summer ... I think most motors

> opening to a large
> expanse would increase the pressure and decrease the
> velocity, which of
> course is true
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 05:27:30 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

your timing should be about 6 to 8 deg.
you should check to see that your vacume advance diaphram works and that
your mechanical advance moves freely, if all is well try a better gas
and consider replacing your mechanical advance springs the do get weak
with age and they are only a few dollars.

Van ster wrote:
>
> I have a 77 351M in a F250 4X. I ping going up hills or anytime I punch the
> gas. What is my timing supposed to be? My sticker on the valve cover is
> gone. I thought timing would be a good place to start.
> Thanks-Brian
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 08:27:21 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Six Lug Rims For 65 F350 Dually

In a message dated 5/27/99 6:53:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
pickup65 juno.com writes:

>
> I remember someone on this list bought new six lug rims for a 65 F350
> dually. I think it was a year ago or so. Does anyone remember where they
> got them? I tried checking the archives to no avail. Anybody?
>
When was this thread supposed to have been posted? I don't remember any
thread about six-lug Ford Rims. In fact I don't remember Ford using six lug
rims on anything. What gives??

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 08:54:05 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls

72 is 4 wheel drum brakes right? If this is true you simply have to adjust
the brakes till it quits pulling. Air theoretically won't cause this but
experience has shown that it, indeed, can so this is also a possibility but
with drum brakes I would highly suspect out of adjustment or out of round
shoes if new since one can be perfect and another not in the same pair etc..

I'd adjust them till it doesn't pull if you have good pedal and let them
wear in. Offer your customer free adjustments till it wears in and he'll be
a happy camper :-) Adjustments of one wheel (if you know which one is the
offender) only takes a few minutes so won't impact much on your business
right?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Any suggestions would be appreciated. I feel stupid asking
> but I need other
> input. Thanx all
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 09:01:17 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...

The ruff and tuff are my favorite but haven't been able to find any lately
so I get the standard rough service ones with plasctic coating. The plastic
coating is very important since it protects the glass from liquids and cold
air etc. to prevent cracking due to heat changes etc.. It also gets less
hot than pure glass so if you spill flamable liquids on them they don't have
as much tendency to start fires.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> it is worth it. She gets the GE SAF-T-GARD RUFFf-N-TUFF Teflon Coated
> Bulb, 75 watts. I was going through a bulb every 15 minutes
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 07:00:02 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance

I've just finished installing the pistons for my new 390 and the
connecting rods for #3 and #7 don't have enough side clearance (less than
.001"). According to Steve Christ's book, the face of the rod must be
resurfaced. Wouldn't the engine need to be rebalanced after removing .012"
off of either #3 or #7, or .006" off of both?

The engine used to be a 360,.. I purchased the crankshaft and the connecting
rods (C7AE B) from the same machinist that did all the work.

What should I do?


Danger
danger csolutions.net



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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 08:26:26 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - "New 75 Supercab"

>I recently picked up a 75 supercab, 360 C6, w/93400 miles.
>As a result of 4 months of lurking on this page your invaluable posts
>and opinions have inspired me to go beyond my usual unimaginative
>keep-it-stock approach.

Glad you got something you liked. The whole point is that its YOUR truck so
you have to make it what YOU want ...

>temperatures. Are my 'cold' temp readings valueless? (all between 140
>and 150 at the 3rd or 4th crank).
>
They are not valueless ... seems like people have been comparing the cold
values with the warm ones, that was you know for sure if you are getting
compression with the oil all circulating...

>As this will be used mostly for short distance towing I am interested in
>increasing bottom end power. Would installing headers and dual exhaust
>increase power sufficiently or would I also have to upgrade the intake
>and carb as well?
>
Headers may hurt if you get them too large. I don't think I'd worry about
it though, the stock manifolds are VERY restrictive. If you have a 2wd,
then there are lots of headers that are available and will look fine. If
you have 4wd, then you may be in more of a quandry as there aren't many
shorties available, and the long tubes hang down on the driver's side to go
under the xfer case ....

>
>Are there any purists who want the original wires? Sorry... I disposed
>of the original motor oil.
>
As for original wires there is something I want to know about them, do they
have right angles on the part that plugs into the distributor, or just
right angled boots ? I always hate the way they put a straight piece under
a right angle boot, so the wire comes out at about a 45deg angle. I hope
this makes some sense ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 08:30:24 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 quandry

>As far as low-end or high-end performance, torque, fuel economy goes,
>well, my thinking at this point is just to get something running that I
>can trust to stay running, something that will go up my road (uphill) at
>more than 35mph, something that I can tune up and lose the exhaust
>backfiring I have right now. The 2v I have leaks like a sieve, can't
>get a good tune on the motor to save my soul. I've messed w/ the dwell,
>the plug gap and the timing to get the best I can get right now, and the
>point of using this new intake/carb setup is, for the time being,
>because I don't have ready cash to get what I'd ideally want.

I know how this goes, mine was doing the same thing, that's why I swapped
over to the 4V when I was doing a head gasket one time ... it will run
reliably and quite well, though it may not be the absolute best that it
could, but it will be an improvement... It didn't gain as much as putting
headers on it did (headers on a 2V), but it was way more than the 2V was
through the stock manifolds.


So,
>regarding what I copied above.... I don't quite understand what is meant
>by "matching the gaskets..." Matching the gaskets to the intake or
>matching them to the heads?

My understanding is you match the ports to the gaskets, so its kind of a
misnomer ...


Getting the intake for free gave
>me some hope that I'd be able to kill two birds with one stone, the
>large bird of getting the motor running right and the smaller bird of
>upping performance a little. Now I'm not sure quite what to do. I do
>know that the current carb leaks more fuel than my Q-jet will burn under
>the toughest load. I've kitted it, it needs a bushing in the body for
>the throttle plate rod or something. *sigh*
>

If you just need to wake the motor up and get it running right again, this
will work, my 360 was a little off, so while I had it apart I decided to
ditch the 2V and threw on a 4V, I used a holley, but as long as you know
the carb works it should run fine ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 08:32:55 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls

>Hey all, I've got a question I could use some input on.
>I'm working on a 72 F100 2wd at my shop. It came in for a bunch of stuff,
>but the one problem i am having is it pulls to the right when braking. I've
>been working on these trucks for quite a few years and I'm not sure what is
>causing it and don't want to throw to much money at it for the customers
>sake.
>Here is what I have done so far.
>1- Pulled drums and checked for lining- just fine
>2- Adjusted brakes (Front and Rear)
>3- checked king pins, wheel bearings
>4- Replaced return springs for brakes and re adjusted
>5- checked air pressure in tires
>6- checked for broken springs, shocks, screwy steering linkage
>7- inspected brake hoses- may need replaced but not sure
>externally they look ok, minor cracking but that's about it.
>Any suggestions would be appreciated. I feel stupid asking but I need other
>input. Thanx all
>

4 wheel drums ? Have you checked the wheel cylinders yet ? If its been
sitting (or if it hasn't), they will sometimes freeze up and not go on on
one side ... if its a rear it might be just a pull, if its a front it will
spin the wheel over a couple of times if you're not holding onto it ... our
69 'stang does this since it sits most of the time ... if you mash them on
hard once it will usually free it up, but the best bet is to replace it or
it will stick again in a short while.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 10:39:04 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

Dave writes: >>> Hey all, I've got a question I could use some input on.
> I'm working on a 72 F100 2wd at my shop. It came in for a bunch of stuff,
> but the one problem i am having is it pulls to the right when braking. I've
> been working on these trucks for quite a few years and I'm not sure what is
> causing it and don't want to throw to much money at it for the customers
> sake.
> Here is what I have done so far.
> 1- Pulled drums and checked for lining- just fine
> 2- Adjusted brakes (Front and Rear)
> 3- checked king pins, wheel bearings
> 4- Replaced return springs for brakes and re adjusted
> 5- checked air pressure in tires
> 6- checked for broken springs, shocks, screwy steering linkage
> 7- inspected brake hoses- may need replaced but not sure
> externally they look ok, minor cracking but that's about it.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Might try taking the front lines completely loose where they enter the wheel
cyl, (one at a time) and have someone else mash the brake as if they were
braking for a fairly quick(but not panic) stop.
Notice the pressure and see if they are about equal. Sometimes the lines get
partially stopped up or the steel line gets mashed(flattened out) and equal
amounts of fluid & pressure don't make it to the wheel cylinders.

Another thing to check is the opposite wheel cylinder to see if it is stuck(or
dragging).
Just ideas for things that I have found over the years. Hope they help.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 09:51:43 -0501
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 quandry

>> I've messed w/ the dwell,
>> the plug gap and the timing to get the best I can get right now, and the
>> point of using this new intake/carb setup is, for the time being,
>> because I don't have ready cash to get what I'd ideally want

I once had the darndest time with backfires, turned out I was forgetting to remove the vac
advance at the distributor when setting the timing. Perhaps you are not doing this as
well?

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 16:58:56 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

I have a '78 bronco with the 351M. Timing depends on your state. Here in
CA it is 6 BTDC, my bronco is from out of state and has 14 BTDC specified
on the valve cover. This does seem to be the optimal value. As a matter
of coincidence I have been experimenting with it recently. Later timing
seems to reduce emissions, as well as your power and gas mileage. After
the smog station set my timing to 6 BTDC I was only getting 2/3 of the
power and 8 mpg on the freeway; with 14 BTDC I was getting 12 mpg. With
17 deg it would idle much faster but less actual power. With 25+ deg it
started to run rough. But in any way, I only got it to ping by setting my
fuel pressure regulator to 0.5 PSI and then flooring it, so maybe you're
running lean?

Op Thu, 27 May 1999, Van ster schreef:

> I have a 77 351M in a F250 4X. I ping going up hills or anytime I punch the
> gas. What is my timing supposed to be? My sticker on the valve cover is
> gone. I thought timing would be a good place to start.
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 10:32:46 -0500
From: "Darryl Wright"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - "New 75 Supercab"

>>Are there any purists who want the original wires? Sorry... I disposed
>>of the original oil."

I, too, just removed -- and tossed -- the original sparkplug wires from my
truck. How did I know that they were originals? They told me so! They were
stenciled with 1976 down the length of the wire!


They went in Tuesday's trash. Still have plenty of yet-undiscovered mud
daubers hiding throughout the truck -- if you want those. I'm sure that
they're "aftermarket" but still quite "period." ;-)

Found out yesterday why 4 x 4 might be cool -- even here in winter-less
Tejas! Ran one tank dry on Tillie, a 4 x 2, hit the switch too late and
coasted out of the traffic onto a patch of wet red Texas clay. Can you say
"stranded?"

Ever notice that there is nowhere to hook a chain under the front of these
ol' Ford? I mean *no* where! There was my big chance to go booneyin' in my
truck -- and I blew it!

With a mud-covered Tillie sitting out front,
Nancy Wright
and Stony (Pembroke Welsh corgi) E;-P

'76 F-250 Ranger XLT SuperCab, 460, C-6: "Tillie"

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 10:16:33 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

>I have a '78 bronco with the 351M. Timing depends on your state. Here in
>CA it is 6 BTDC, my bronco is from out of state and has 14 BTDC specified
>on the valve cover. This does seem to be the optimal value. As a matter
>of coincidence I have been experimenting with it recently. Later timing
>seems to reduce emissions, as well as your power and gas mileage. After
>the smog station set my timing to 6 BTDC I was only getting 2/3 of the
>power and 8 mpg on the freeway; with 14 BTDC I was getting 12 mpg. With
>17 deg it would idle much faster but less actual power. With 25+ deg it
>started to run rough. But in any way, I only got it to ping by setting my
>fuel pressure regulator to 0.5 PSI and then flooring it, so maybe you're
>running lean?
>

14 seems really high for a stock setting, but you will definitely get more
power and hence better mileage with that compared with 6. The reason you
can't get your vehicle to ping is probably the 8.2:1 compression ratio, or
whatever it is...at any rate its a lot lower than the 9.5 or whatever that
I am running. I think most of the FE's clock in at around 9:1, though
there were some 8:1's available when I was doing the rebuild ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 10:54:15 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - anti sieze

>>Gang, buy a large bottle of ....... Permatex Anti-Seize, grey in color and
put it on everything that you want to be able to take off again or move and
you will never have this problem again as long as you live !!!

Good advice, Gary. Unfortunately, my truck is 20 years old and never been
apart. The problem of getting stuck parts off will always be with us. Sigh.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http//www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 11:09:01 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti sieze

>>>Gang, buy a large bottle of ....... Permatex Anti-Seize, grey in color and
>put it on everything that you want to be able to take off again or move and
>you will never have this problem again as long as you live !!!
>
>Good advice, Gary. Unfortunately, my truck is 20 years old and never been
>apart. The problem of getting stuck parts off will always be with us. Sigh.
>

One guy I know calls it "next guy stuff" so the next guy can get it off
easily ... if you're the next guy, then you could have problems from the
previous guy ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 10:56:13 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange

At 04:13 AM 27/05/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I have been in this situation and could not find a used distributor for
>the right price for a 390.
>
>I suggest to all......
>
>You can swap out the breaker plate and the center that holds the rotor
>from points ignition system for any duraspark II as long as the
>distributor turns in the same direction. all you need to do is cut out
>the hole from the original wire (change it to a slot). and pick up the
>correct cap rotor and intermediate cap. (unless you dont want people to
>see the duraspark cap you can still use the original cap and rotor.)
>
>HARLEY A PUTNAM wrote:
>>
>> Hi folks, just a quick question...I have a 1973 429 engine, and was
>> wondering which motors were candidates for getting a duraspark distributor
>> so that I can convert this critter to electronic ignition. Any help
>> appreciated!
>>
>> The Dirtyman

I wonder what the "right price" was! You can buy a completely rebuilt
distributor for an FE, electronic ignition, for about $40 at the parts
store. They're made by Arrow or, if you're lucky, by Autoline.

For your 429, finding a Duraspark distributor should be a piece of cake.
Just go into your local parts shop and ask for a rebuilt Duraspark
distributor for a 76 or so 460, since 429 and 460 engines (boss 429
excepted) use the same distributor. When they ask for a core, give them
your point type distributor. The rebuilders really don't care since they
replace all the guts of the thing anyway.

Remember when you go to install your distributor, (I think it's like this
on 385's too, but I know it's like this on FE's) remove the rotor and put a
few drops of oil "into" the distributor shaft, there's a felt washer in
there that holds oil for the centrifugal counterweights and upper bushing.
Most people never do this and that's why distributors fry.

Finally, remember to use Never-seez on the distributor housing where it
inserts into the block. This way you will always be able to get it out
without borrowing a chisel from Azie.

marko :^]

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 14:18:35 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Six Lug Rims For 65 F350 Dually

Ford used 6 lugs back in the fifties but not sure what years or how long
they used them. I just recall seeing 6 lug axles on fords way back when :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> thread about six-lug Ford Rims. In fact I don't remember
> Ford using six lug
> rims on anything. What gives??
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 14:25:42 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance

Have the machinist check the radius on all the journals, it is probably not
your rods!!! The crank has undoubtedly been reground so the grinding
operation must reset the radius size and location for the rods to fit
properly.

If the rods worked in the engine before they are most likely correct, the
crank is more likely to be off, especially if you only have two journals too
tight.

Do this before giving up, put one of the other rods on the suspect journals
and check the side clearance and also mike the width of the rods before you
chew out your machinist :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I've just finished installing the pistons for my new 390 and the
> connecting rods for #3 and #7 don't have enough side
> clearance (less than
> .001").
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 14:39:24 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance

If I remember correctly, the shop manual says the same. I'd have the crank
checked before I would worry with the rods.

Good Luck,

- -Ted



Have the machinist check the radius on all the journals, it is probably not
your rods!!! The crank has undoubtedly been reground so the grinding
operation must reset the radius size and location for the rods to fit
properly.












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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 11:50:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Insurance was: Vehicle Appraisal

John wrote:
> In my case there are lots of 79 F150s similar to mine for $1000
> to $1500.

This is exactly what I am afraid of. I talked you them in person
yesterday they absolutely will not charge me more for an increased
value on my truck. ??? They did say that with good documentation,
receipts, pictures, appraisal, they would work with me if a claim
ever happened. This IS State Farm by the way.

So I either get a great deal, paying a lower premium to cover a
higher value truck, or I will get screwed when a claim is filed
and they keep repeating "market value, market value". I have
no way to determine which it is. I think I will do a little
shopping.

> Bottom line when you are dealing with insurance companies: as long as
> you are paying and they are not, you are a valued customer. When it
> comes time to collect on your own policy, they haven't a clue about
> what planet you are from.

So true. One part of their job is to get your money, the other is
to keep it.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 11:51:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...

I have seen bearings that are discolored. Kind of looks like the
bearing surface is burned. They otherwise look fine. Are those
useable? Are there different degrees of discoloration where some
is normal but really dark is bad?

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 13:56:42 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...

>I have seen bearings that are discolored. Kind of looks like the
>bearing surface is burned. They otherwise look fine. Are those
>useable? Are there different degrees of discoloration where some
>is normal but really dark is bad?
>
Sounds right, the darkness is a burning, or hardening of the bearing ...
sounds good, except that it means those bearings have been hot ...really
hot most likely ... a little is okay, a lot and I'd be replacing them and
checking the race. When steel gets hot and cools, it usually gets brittle ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 15:07:15 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...

As cheap as and easy as they are to replace. I wouldn't chance it. I'd get new
bearings and races and pack the bearings well with a high quality grease. If
you're already looking at them, the hard part is over.

- -Ted




draco pacifier.com on 05/27/99 02:51:29 PM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: draco pacifier.com () (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Front bearings...




I have seen bearings that are discolored. Kind of looks like the
bearing surface is burned. They otherwise look fine. Are those
useable? Are there different degrees of discoloration where some
is normal but really dark is bad?

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 13:22:30 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Side Clearance

> Have the machinist check the radius on all the journals, it is probably
not
> your rods!!! The crank has undoubtedly been reground so the grinding
> operation must reset the radius size and location for the rods to fit
> properly.
>
> If the rods worked in the engine before they are most likely correct, the
> crank is more likely to be off, especially if you only have two journals
too
> tight.
>
> Do this before giving up, put one of the other rods on the suspect
journals
> and check the side clearance and also mike the width of the rods before
you
> chew out your machinist :-)
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
>
..............

There was nothing wrong with the rods or the crankshaft. The bearing on
the cap had moved out of position when attaching the cap to the rod and for
the small fee of a new bearing (damaged notch), I was able to properly
assemble with .015" side clearance..... Woohooo!


Danger
danger csolutions.net



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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 14:27:38 -0500
From: "Hicks, Adam"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Last chance...!

O.k. Guys. I'm putting my Ford in the paper next week, so here's the deal.
I wanted $3000.00 for it, and have had e-mails saying that $3000 was a more
than fair price. Anyone on the list can have the truck for $2600.00 final.
The address to take a look is http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.luedtech.com/ford go take a look!
Most replies have been like "I'd buy it in a minute if I didn't live in
Montana..." so I'm dropping the price as low as I can painfully go for you.

I apologize for the post, and I know this might belong in the classifieds
instead, but you guys have helped me so much with this project that I wanted
to make sure and give you a chance at it first.

Thanks again for all of your help,
Adam Hicks
Ft. Worth, TX
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 15:31:27 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dizzy update

I got my 400M distributor at the junkyard, only one though. I also saw a
75 (I think, gas cap behind door) crew cab dualie 7' bed F-350, with 351W
engine. The poor thing had good paint on top, underneath pure rust - side
of bed would move 3 feet. Still it looked cool. Someone bought it while I
was there, though. Also saw a ford bed approx same vintage, with a tool
box built into the pass side of the bed. When was this available? I'll
let everyone know if the dist works, and ask more questions if it doesn't.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
IsuzuG prodigy.net


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 15:41:29 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Six Lug Rims For 65 F350 Dually

In a message dated 5/27/99 2:28:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> Ford used 6 lugs back in the fifties but not sure what years or how long
> they used them. I just recall seeing 6 lug axles on fords way back when
:-)
>
Wasn't that just the "Budd" style wheels from the F-5 and up though? The
post here would indicate that there should be a dana rear end=8 lug.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 13:10:31 -0700
From: "James A. Doty"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Insurance was: Vehicle Appraisal

Hi Mark:

I just updated my insurance a couple of months ago.

I told the insurance agent what I paid for the van in '96, and he commented
on the fact that I've got lift equipment in it, and asked what amount if any
I
wanted to add to my coverage to replace the lift equipment if the van were
totalled.

I added $8,000 to my coverage. I don't know if I'm getting a great deal or
not but I'm paying $107 and change a month for the van insurance and our
renters' insurance.

Last year I was paying around $187 a month and had less overall coverage.
I was considered high risk though because of an accident I had in Salem, OR
in '93.

James A. Doty
jamesd1 ptld.uswest.net

draco pacifier.com wrote:

> John wrote:
> > In my case there are lots of 79 F150s similar to mine for $1000
> > to $1500.
>
> This is exactly what I am afraid of. I talked you them in person
> yesterday they absolutely will not charge me more for an increased
> value on my truck. ??? They did say that with good documentation,
> receipts, pictures, appraisal, they would work with me if a claim
> ever happened. This IS State Farm by the way.



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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 23:59:18 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

> Also, when you put the light on to see the timing, remember to pull off the
> vacuum hose to the distributor.

This is what everyone (person and book) keeps telling me. But I never saw
the vacuum change the ignition timing at static rpm, it only works
when you punch the gas. Might as well leave it on.
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 16:04:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: chinacat sun
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 or 390?????

How can you tell the diffrence a 390 from a 360?????? where are the
#'s on the block????
my truck was sold under the under standing it was a 390 but the #'s on
the truck say diffrent..
thanx in advance.....
===

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 01:26:10 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - "New 75 Supercab"

> Ever notice that there is nowhere to hook a chain under the front of these
> ol' Ford? I mean *no* where! There was my big chance to go booneyin' in my
> truck -- and I blew it!

I sure did, and whoever owned my truck before I did found out too, and
put a strap on the axle. The brake line was as flat as a dime, amazing
the brake still worked! 5 ton tow hooks are only $10 so they are cheap
insurance.

Bas.

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:31:24 EDT
From: monkey352 juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rims

Hi all,
Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of crome rims would look
really good with a red '62 F100?? Thanks.......

Jonathan
'62 F100 223 Straight Six
South Carolina

___________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 16:33:39 -0700
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rims

When choosing rims it is important they compliment the vehicle. They
shouldn't stand out as the major eye catcher.
And I hate wheels that are twisty and funky looking. You need something
tastefull and classic looking.
IMHO...
-srw

Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy
SWeatherby UsWest.Net A-SamWe Microsoft.com
'70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang
'65 F100

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 1999 4:31 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rims


> Hi all,
> Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of crome rims would look
> really good with a red '62 F100?? Thanks.......
>
> Jonathan
> '62 F100 223 Straight Six
> South Carolina
>
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:46:53 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 or 390?????

>
> How can you tell the diffrence a 390 from a 360?????? where are the
> #'s on the block????
> my truck was sold under the under standing it was a 390 but the #'s on
> the truck say diffrent..
> thanx in advance.....
.................

The three ways to tell the difference between 360, and 390 that I know
of are...

1) Remove spark plug and insert small rod or wire into hole in order measure
the overall distance the piston is moving. Have an assistant use a socket
with breaker bar on crankshaft bolt to rotate engine in order to move the
piston from the top to the bottom of its stroke.

2) Remove the oil pan and read the numbers off the side of the connecting
rods. If you see EDC, EDC-A, C1AE-A, COAE-A, C1AE-B, C7TE-A then you are
looking at a long rod which means it is not a 390.

3) The 390 crankshaft has a small square notch removed from the flexplate
mounting flange while the 352 and 360 have curved cutouts.


Danger
danger csolutions.net



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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 22:19:48 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

In a message dated 5/27/99 8:22:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wish iastate.edu
writes:

>
This is also the stock setting for my 460. My dad had set the timing
initially to 8 as that is what he is used to. It ran decent, but one fine
day I decided to clean the motor, and found the sticker with the 14 on it.
Set it there and I swear it gave me a minimum of 30 free ponies.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 21:14:26 -0500
From: "S.C.N. Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 72 F100 pulls

Are the wheel slave cylinders the same? You might have a rear cylinder on
the weak side. Just a thought.

Scott
Portland Ore
1966 F-100 Shortbox

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 01:14:34 -0400
From: Bryan G Sheffler
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 or 390?????

The block numbers are located on the left hand side of the block, in
front of the first freeze plug on that side.....


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