61-79-list-digest Thursday, May 27 1999 Volume 03 : Number 180



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Rebuilding a 9"... Part 2
FTE 61-79 - VIN decoder 67-72
Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator notes
FTE 61-79 - 460 pulley alignment problem
FTE 61-79 - "New 75 Supercab"
FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 quandry
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 pulley alignment problem
FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls
Re: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls
Re: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls

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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 18:13:03 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rebuilding a 9"... Part 2

24. PAINT ALL RING GEAR TEETH, BOTH SIDES, WITH GEAR MARKING COMPOUND
(USUALLY A WHITE TYPE OF GREASE). PUT FORCE ON RING GEAR IN EITHER DIRECTION
(SMALL RUBBER PAD PRESSED AGAINST RING GEAR TEETH WORKS WELL FOR THIS). SPIN
PINION/FLANGE BACK AND FORTH, 10 OR 20 TIMES, ENSURING 5 OR 6 RING GEAR
TEETH MESH WITH PINION GEAR TEETH. RELEASE FORCE ON RING GEAR AND ROTATE IT
TO A POINT WHERE PREVIOUSLY MESHED TEETH (PATTERN IN GREASE) CAN BE SEEN.
PATTERN SHOULD LOOK LIKE CORRECT MESH PATTERN IN PICTURE AFTER PART 10.

25. REPEAT PROCEDURE, FORCING RING GEAR IN OPPOSITE DIRECTION. CHECK PATTERN
AGAIN. BOTH PATTERNS SHOULD BE IN CENTER OF TOOTH AND NOT RUNNING OFF THE
EDGE OF ANY TEETH. PATTERN CAN BE CHECKED AT VARIOUS LOCATIONS ON RING GEAR
TO ENSURE PATTERNS ARE THE SAME OVER ENTIRE RING GEAR. DOING THIS WILL ALSO
ENSURE RING GEAR IS SEATED CORRECTLY ON DIFFERENTIAL AND RUNOUT ON RING GEAR
IS ACCEPTABLE. IF RING GEAR/PINION GEARS WERE REUSED, SKIP PART 26.

26. IF PATTERN IS NOT CORRECT, IN BOTH DIRECTIONS, PINION ASSEMBLY MUST BE
REMOVED AND A DIFFERENT SHIM MUST BE INSTALLED. YOU SHOULD ONLY ADD/SUBTRACT
.002 INCHES OF SHIM AT THE MOST WHEN CHANGING THE SHIM(S) THICKNESS THE
FIRST TIME. THICKER SHIMS CAN BE ADDED THE SECOND TIME, DEPENDING UPON HOW
MUCH THE PATTERN CHANGES. IT TAKES SOME PRACTICE TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH SHIM
TO ADD/SUBTRACT. PINION ASSEMBLY MUST BE THEN RE-INSTALLED AND SIDE
ADJUSTERS SET UP AGAIN SO THAT BACKLASH IS ONCE AGAIN .008.

27. REPEAT STEPS 24-26 UNTIL PATTERN IS CORRECT. THIS IS THE HARDEST PART OF
REBUILDING A REAR END ASSEMBLY. IT MAY TAKE MANY TRYS OR EVEN DAYS TO GET IT
RIGHT. BE PATIENT IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME. SKIP TO PART 28.

28. IF PATTERN IS NOT CORRECT, ADJUST SIDE ADJUSTERS AND CONSEQUENTLY
BACKLASH UNTIL PATTERN IS CORRECT. PINION SHIM THICKNESS SHOULD NOT HAVE TO
BE CHANGED, AS RING/PINION GEAR RELATIONSHIP HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED. IF YOU
CAN NOT GET PATTERN CORRECT, YOU WILL NEED TO REPEAT SECTIONS 24-26 UNTIL
PATTERN IS CORRECT.

29. AFTER PATTERN AND BACKLASH HAVE BEEN DETERMINED TO BE CORRECT, YOU NEED
TO ENSURE THAT SIDE ADJUSTERS ARE SNUGGED UP BY HAND ONLY ON BOTH SIDES.
SIDE ADJUSTERS NEED TO THEN BE ADJUSTED TIGHTER, TO CREATE A PRELOAD ON
DIFFERENTIAL BEARINGS. EACH SIDE ADJUSTER NEEDS TO BE MOVED IN .004 TO .006
INCHES FOR NEW BEARINGS OR .003-.004 FOR USED BEARINGS. THERE ARE HOLES
LOCATED ON EACH SIDE ADJUSTER. ROTATING THE ADJUSTER TO MOVE FROM ONE HOLE
TO THE NEXT WILL GIVE YOU .005 INCHES OF PRELOAD FOR EACH HOLE TO HOLE
DISTANCE. YOU WILL HAVE TO EYE THIS AND MOVE THE ADJUSTERS ACCORDINGLY. IF
YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A CASE SPREADER, YOU CAN SPREAD THE MAIN CASE THE CORRECT
AMOUNT, AND THEN JUST SNUG UP THE ADJUSTERS BY HAND.

30. APPLY LOKTITE TO MAIN BEARING CAP BOLTS AND TIGHTEN TO 75-85 FT-LBS.
INSTALL SIDE ADJUSTER RETAINERS, APPLY LOKTITE TO SMALL BOLTS AND TIGHTEN.

31. ENSURE RING AND PINION MESH SMOOTHLY AROUND ENTIRE RING GEAR SURFACE.
REPLACE 3RD MEMBER IN AXLE HOUSING. I GAVE UP ON GASKETS, AS THEY TENDED TO
LEAK FOR ME. I USE ONLY GASKETMAKER BETWEEN THE HOUSING AND 3RD MEMBER.
INSTALL BRASS WASHERS. THEY MAY HAVE TO BE BENT BACK INTO SHAPE IF THEY WERE
DEFORMED UPON REMOVAL. TORQUE 3RD MEMBER NUTS IN A CRISS-CROSS PATTERN TO
30-40 FT-LBS. INSTALL AXLES AND TORQUE 4 NUTS TO 50-75 FT-LBS. INSTALL BRAKE
DRUMS, WHEELS AND ROAD TEST.

YA JUST REBUILT YA FIRST REAR!

PS; IF IT BLOWS UP IN 20 MILES, JUST GET IT OVER WITH AND GET A DANA 60.
IT'S A MUCH BETTER REAR ANYWAY. HEEHEE.




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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 18:41:15 -0700
From: John & Iva McKay
Subject: FTE 61-79 - VIN decoder 67-72

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman/ is where I found the VIN decoder
for 67-72 trucks.

- --
John L. McKay
Mesa, Arizona

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~djspaints/ford.htm
Email: djspaints earthlink.net


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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 20:22:57 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator notes

>The radiator I got, its not one of those
>little push in plugs they use to keep junk out,
>it actually threads in and is like 3/4" long or
>so ... actually a touch longer than the
>petcockout of the old one if I remember right.

Yo Wish & John:

The part that came w/ my new radiator is like Wish described. It is threaded,
about an inch long, with barbs on the end (to keep it from falling out?) and a
slot extending up about halfway from the end for the coolant to flow out. Yep,
it is a cheesy plastic drain plug.

That said, I had the same concerns about its ability to retain pressure in the
cooling system and long-term durability. I also disliked the idea of having two
streams of anti-freeze spewing out of the drain in random directions when the
plug was loosened.

After some investigation, I discovered that the threads are 1/4 NPT and I found
a brass drain cock (just like OEM!) at the local hardware store. This bugger is
tight, though, so I may opt to have the hex base brazed or spot welded to the
radiator to avoid having the whole thing come out when I want to drain it.
(Maybe that's why the OEM unit appeared to be brazed on.)

I think I'm set now. Thanks again for the helpful input.

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 1996 09:40:34 -0500
From: "Matthew R. Schwartz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 pulley alignment problem

I'm sure this ain't news to anyone, but after a engine rebuild.. keeping the
original block. pulleys and brackets. I have an pulley alignment problem. It
appears that the upper pulley (single) is set back a bit to far toward the
engine causing it to rub the lower crank pulley ( double) when torque down.
I suspect that the new water pump flange position on the waterpump shaft is
the culprit. Has anyone run into this problem on their 460 and what was the
resolution? Did Ford produce different water pumps with varying flange
locations on their different 460 engines?

What I do know is that my brackets for the alternator and p/s pump match
what I found on a totally stock 78 460 F250 that someone else owns, even
though my block is a 71 Lincoln. Ah.. the joys of mixed nuts.

Matt

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:16:52 -0400
From: Becky & Greg
Subject: FTE 61-79 - "New 75 Supercab"

I recently picked up a 75 supercab, 360 C6, w/93400 miles.
As a result of 4 months of lurking on this page your invaluable posts
and opinions have inspired me to go beyond my usual unimaginative
keep-it-stock approach.
The truck has been repainted and I would rate the body, frame and box as
good. (heavily undercoated from new I would suspect.). I do fear that
the original owner rarely opened the hood, still had the original wires
on it. I assume they are original they were a set with 1975 on them. I
rebuilt the 2v carb and followed your instructions re:timing etc.
It runs very smooth now with new wires distibutor etc.

Also I did a compression test with the engine cold. I find in the
archives that the test should be conducted with the motor at operating
temperatures. Are my 'cold' temp readings valueless? (all between 140
and 150 at the 3rd or 4th crank).

As this will be used mostly for short distance towing I am interested in
increasing bottom end power. Would installing headers and dual exhaust
increase power sufficiently or would I also have to upgrade the intake
and carb as well?


Are there any purists who want the original wires? Sorry... I disposed
of the original motor oil.

Thanks
Greg

79 F100 300 6 (Lazarus)
75 Supercab
64 f100 I6 3 in the tree...deposit left, not home yet
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:25:21 -0700
From: "K. Moulton"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 quandry

>Also my machinist talked about matching the gaskets at least if the
>difference was too much ... he seemed to think that would fix things up

>pretty well, and he's done this for a couple of years so I have some
faith
>in him ...

As far as low-end or high-end performance, torque, fuel economy goes,
well, my thinking at this point is just to get something running that I
can trust to stay running, something that will go up my road (uphill) at
more than 35mph, something that I can tune up and lose the exhaust
backfiring I have right now. The 2v I have leaks like a sieve, can't
get a good tune on the motor to save my soul. I've messed w/ the dwell,
the plug gap and the timing to get the best I can get right now, and the
point of using this new intake/carb setup is, for the time being,
because I don't have ready cash to get what I'd ideally want. So,
regarding what I copied above.... I don't quite understand what is meant
by "matching the gaskets..." Matching the gaskets to the intake or
matching them to the heads?
I understand the theory of movement of high pressure into low pressure
areas, I hadn't thought of that. At this point, if I had a good 2v
carb, I'd just slap that on and get about doing some body and interior
work, some new mufflers, the rear brakes and save the motor work until I
had the money for what I want ideally. Getting the intake for free gave
me some hope that I'd be able to kill two birds with one stone, the
large bird of getting the motor running right and the smaller bird of
upping performance a little. Now I'm not sure quite what to do. I do
know that the current carb leaks more fuel than my Q-jet will burn under
the toughest load. I've kitted it, it needs a bushing in the body for
the throttle plate rod or something. *sigh*

Thanks,
Kathy

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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:38:08 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford distributor interchange

351m /400 will fit 351c,429,&460
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 01:30:38 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 pulley alignment problem

In a message dated 5/26/99 8:26:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mschwartz fast.net writes:


what I found on a totally stock 78 460 F250 that someone else owns, even
though my block is a 71 Lincoln. Ah.. the joys of mixed nuts.
>>
Yes Ford did make a different water pump, changed around 72 or 73, sounds
like you need the newer pump.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:40:35 PDT
From: "Dave Walbeck"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls

Hey all, I've got a question I could use some input on.
I'm working on a 72 F100 2wd at my shop. It came in for a bunch of stuff,
but the one problem i am having is it pulls to the right when braking. I've
been working on these trucks for quite a few years and I'm not sure what is
causing it and don't want to throw to much money at it for the customers
sake.
Here is what I have done so far.
1- Pulled drums and checked for lining- just fine
2- Adjusted brakes (Front and Rear)
3- checked king pins, wheel bearings
4- Replaced return springs for brakes and re adjusted
5- checked air pressure in tires
6- checked for broken springs, shocks, screwy steering linkage
7- inspected brake hoses- may need replaced but not sure
externally they look ok, minor cracking but that's about it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I feel stupid asking but I need other
input. Thanx all

Dave Complete and Total FORDNUT, Highboy Nut, & FE Nut Too!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 03:00:18 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls

Dave Walbeck wrote:
>
> Hey all, I've got a question I could use some input on.
> I'm working on a 72 F100 2wd at my shop. It came in for a bunch of stuff,
> but the one problem i am having is it pulls to the right when braking. I've
> been working on these trucks for quite a few years and I'm not sure what is
> causing it and don't want to throw to much money at it for the customers
> sake.
> Here is what I have done so far.
> 1- Pulled drums and checked for lining- just fine
> 2- Adjusted brakes (Front and Rear)
> 3- checked king pins, wheel bearings
> 4- Replaced return springs for brakes and re adjusted
> 5- checked air pressure in tires
> 6- checked for broken springs, shocks, screwy steering linkage
> 7- inspected brake hoses- may need replaced but not sure
> externally they look ok, minor cracking but that's about it.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated. I feel stupid asking but I need other
> input. Thanx all
>
> Dave Complete and Total FORDNUT, Highboy Nut, & FE Nut Too!!!!!!
>
> _______________________________________________________________
Be sure to check the wheel bearings and steering components. One loose
bearing can make a world of difference!
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Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 03:25:36 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 72 F100 pulls

Jason & Kathy Kendrick wrote:
>
> Dave Walbeck wrote:
> >
> > Hey all, I've got a question I could use some input on.
> > I'm working on a 72 F100 2wd at my shop. It came in for a bunch of stuff,
> > but the one problem i am having is it pulls to the right when braking. I've
> > been working on these trucks for quite a few years and I'm not sure what is
> > causing it and don't want to throw to much money at it for the customers
> > sake.
> > Here is what I have done so far.
> > 1- Pulled drums and checked for lining- just fine
> > 2- Adjusted brakes (Front and Rear)
> > 3- checked king pins, wheel bearings
> > 4- Replaced return springs for brakes and re adjusted
> > 5- checked air pressure in tires
> > 6- checked for broken springs, shocks, screwy steering linkage
> > 7- inspected brake hoses- may need replaced but not sure
> > externally they look ok, minor cracking but that's about it.
> > Any suggestions would be appreciated. I feel stupid asking but I need other
> > input. Thanx all....


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