61-79-list-digest Wednesday, January 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 018



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - 2v-4v swap
FTE 61-79 - love your tailights
FTE 61-79 - Pushrod order
FTE 61-79 - I hate my tail lights
RE: FTE 61-79 - 1971 crewcab
FTE 61-79 - C-6 wannabe
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pushrod order
FTE 61-79 - Thanks,more questions
FTE 61-79 - Re: Time for a Portland/Vancouver meet?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Burnt main wiring harness
FTE 61-79 - Re: Another PacNW yard
FTE 61-79 - Re: Dash repair kits (Armor All)
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge show
Re: FTE 61-79 - Time for a Portland/Vancouver meet?
FTE 61-79 - Need advice
FTE 61-79 - RE: Fuel pick-up problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need advice
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Burnt main wiring harness
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Another PacNW yard
FTE 61-79 - starters
FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Burnt main wiring harness
FTE 61-79 - Re: Loose steering, Was Thanks
FTE 61-79 - Crew Cab for sale
RE: FTE 61-79 - Thanks,more questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - dual battery
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79-I HATE MY TAILLIGHTS
Re: FTE 61-79 - love your tailights
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need advice
FTE 61-79 - Tail lights won't go out
Re: FTE 61-79 - starters
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
FTE 61-79 - Exhaust/oil
FTE 61-79 - RE: 2v -4v swap
FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD
FTE 61-79 - Good ole Flames
Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD
Re: FTE 61-79 - love your tailights
FTE 61-79 - Skill Offroad
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need advice
Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD
Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 02:46:36 PST
From: "Christopher Denson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2v-4v swap

Many thanks to all that replied to my post about the 2v to 4v swap. If
you have more info or thoughts please by all means, I appreciate the
advice you've given me. Since I'm going to also swap the gearing from
4.56 to ? what gearing do you all recommend? I'm using my '67 mainly
for daily driving with ocassional trips to my home town (Phoenix). I am
moving to Mississippi and will be towing my Taurus this summer. My last
trip home I could only make between 60-65mph from San Diego to Phx.
Talk about a long trip!! I was thinking somewhere in the 3's. What do
you think?

Chris in San Diego
'67 F100 C/S 352FE/C4

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:09:50 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - love your tailights

>Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:17:05 -0800 (PST)
>From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - I HATE my taillights...
>
>OK, I give up. My cotton picking taillights won't turn off. :(
>What is the problem here?? I've disconnected the headlight switch, the
>fuses to the hazards and the brake lights. Nothing will turn them off.
>I'm working on a 77 F150. ANybody have any ideas, I'm stumped... :(
>Thanks.

Brother Jenkins,
Love your tailights......there is an adjustment on the brake pedal
that is in need of fiddling in order for your lights to go off. Used to
have this problem with my old 71 I had when a kid.

Supposedly my truck goes to the body shop on Monday for a little
more massaging and the some pretty new acrylic enamel paint. I'll beleive
it all when I see it.
Promised it complete in 2 weeks.....guess it means 3 months, right?? I'll
let you know when I get her back.

BTW- The big tornado that went through Jackson, Tennessee Sunday
night was about 12 miles from me. Newspaper said the winds were 240 mph -
an F-4. It wasn't that bad at my house but, I have never seen such mass
destruction by the finger of God. It was Unreal!! I have a new found
respect for tornadoes........they are calling for more severe storms
tonight. Lions tigers and bears, oh my! Lions tigers and bears, Oh my!!

Stu
Nuke GM!
1971 F-100 4x4 resto in progress
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:05:06 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pushrod order

Bill Beyer writes: >>Is there something about FEs that requires the pushrods to
be put back in the same locations?

No. It is not specific to the FE. This applies to any engine. Anytime you are
reusing the same cam/lifters, you need to insure that the pushrods and lifters
remain in the same location. If you are installing new cam and lifters, then it
should not matter.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:12:57 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I hate my tail lights

Daniel,

Remove one of your tail light lenses, both would be better. Look and see if
the big filament is burning or the smaller one. The smaller one is the tail
lights, the larger one is the brakes/hazard/turn signals. I would think
that if the tail lights are on, the side marker lights would be as well.
There should be a junction behind the reaer bumper where you can disconnect
all of these lines. The junction may be mounted up in the frame cross rail.
At any rate, once you determine which circuit is on, track it from there.
Also, don't forget that a lost ground will do funny things, too. You may
have another circuit grounding back through your tail lights. BTW, the
brakes/hazard/turn signals also go through the turn signal switch.

Good luck!!!


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:24:39 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 1971 crewcab

There is a truck junkyard here in Colorado that has at least two last time I
checked. Do you want to go that far for one? If so, let me know, and I
will get you the info. Colorado Rick

> ----------
> From: RodCarlton aol.com[SMTP:RodCarlton aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 18, 1999 2:49 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1971 crewcab
>
> Looking for a cab for my crewcab special 67-72 with little rust this one
> has
> very bad rust.Rod Carlton Orl.FL. 72 F-100 LB 71 F-350 crewcab LB 73
> Mustang.
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>
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:25:43 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 wannabe

>Have you tried adjusting the intermediate band? Maybe it's off enough
>to cause a bind, that requires force to release it. Also, are you using
>type F or ATF? All the C-6's I've had preferred type F. ATF is
>supposed to work, but type F is a little bit different hydraulicly, and
>might make a difference in your case.
>
Whoops, sorry, I left that off. Yes, I have adjusted the intermediate
band. Twice. And I am using Type F.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:44:31 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pushrod order

>are
>reusing the same cam/lifters, you need to insure that the pushrods and lifters
>remain in the same location. If you are installing new cam and lifters,
>then it
>should not matter.
>
Really ? What about the other end ? The side that goes against the rocker
arm ? I'm putting in new lifters (and cam, but since the pushrods don't
touch the cam ...) and have had the heads "redone" ... so do I need to
worry about the order they're in ? I guess I just figured I did, but maybe
not ...

Bill
oh yeah its an FE, not that that matters much.
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:49:52 -0500 (EST)
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thanks,more questions

Thanks for the help on the pulling to the left problem . It was a brake
adjustment problem . Now i need some help with my steering box . The
truck is a 1977 F250 4x4 . since i have bought the truck i have gained
about 2" of play in the steering .everything under the truck looks tight
. With someone turning the wheel side to side ( about 4") nothing moves
under the truck . Can i adjust this out ????? Or do i look for a
steering box ? What years will fit ? Can i put a steering box from a
newer model on it ? Thanks for any help.


Randy
1970 F100 2wd
1977 F250 4x4
1978 F150 2wd

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 06:51:48 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Time for a Portland/Vancouver meet?

Spring would be much better for me since both my trucks are not
running at this time. By then I should have the F-250 sold and
be driving the F-100. I would sure hate to have to show up to
meet my fellow PNW FTEs in the '69 Bug.

I keep forgetting, when is the swap meet? I am definitely
going to make it this year, raining or not.

I like the idea of meeting there, but it might be difficult to
find each other where we can look at each others trucks. Maybe
we could meet on the other side of I-5 at GI Joe's first?

Mark in Southwest Washington
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 06:53:09 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Burnt main wiring harness

Pat Brown
> The purple resistor wire in the harness is the ignition
> ballast resistor.

I agree, these wires were too long to be fuse links.
Any idea just what an ignition ballast resistor does?

My harness had two of these, unless they were two loops of
the same wire.

Mark in Southwest Washington
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 06:54:13 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Another PacNW yard

Sean Hess wrote:
> ..."All Ford Used Truck Parts," ...

I have never heard of this place. We are talking Portland,
OR, not Portland, Maine right? :) This sounds like such a
good lead, I may just have to check it out today at lunch.

Thanks,

Mark in Southwest Washington
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 06:56:39 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dash repair kits (Armor All)

Mike Pacheco
> Yes, but there is a way to fix the fish eyes.... smoothe works wonders..

Can smoothe be applied to vinyl? The people at the local auto
paint store said they have never been able to find anything that
will make vinyl paint stick if Armor All has been on it.

Mark in Southwest Washington
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab
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Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 17:04:55 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge show

Fellow FTEs:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts plans to attend the 21st annual F100
Supernationals in Pigeon Forge, Tennesee this year. Don't
let the name fool you, this show features not only older
F100s but also new trucks too (last year was the first year
for new trucks). Over 800 Ford trucks were featured. This is
the largest Ford truck show in the country and its a blast.

Last year we had 30 list members attend the show. We have
more than twice as many list members this year and hope to
have 100 in attendance. If you're interested in going, send
an email to me (kpayne ford-trucks.com) and I'll add you to the
email list.

We're working on a group discount for the hotel and a
Saturday breakfast. We're hoping to have a pavillion at the
local park too. Peggy is getting in contact with the promoter
to get a booth.

We're going to have a bulleting board featuring several list
member trucks. This is a good way to show your truck if you
can drive it there. If you want your truck featured, whether
or not you attend the show, send a picture to:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Attn: PF Show Photo
PO Box 422
Lilburn, GA 30048

Include a detailed description of the truck.

The show dates are Thursday, May 13th until Sunday, May 16th.
Many vendors are there as early as Monday. We plan to be there
starting Wednesday.

Last year was great and helped to solidify many friendships
amoung list members. We hope to see you there!

Sincerely,
Ken Payne
Admin

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:18:14 -0800
From: "sam weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Time for a Portland/Vancouver meet?

The Mustang Round Up will be the biggest ever this year and will benefit
from Ford helping to fund the event.
They have a non-mustang Ford's section...
I think we should fill it with Ford trucks.
-srw

Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy
SWeatherby UsWest.Net A-SamWe Microsoft.com
'70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang
'93 F-150 XLT Lightning
'98 HD FXD Super Glide
'65 F100

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim Bowman
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Time for a Portland/Vancouver meet?


>The Pacific NW Chapter of the Ford Galaxie Club of America is having
>an event in Portland area in May. Cool Ford trucks and Galaxies might
>be a match. For details, contact Joe at galaxiesNW aol.com. All of
>my reference materials is packed due to a major house remodel that is
>coming to an end. Otherwise, I'd give you the date directly.
>
>You might want to keep the last Sunday in July open for a really neat
>show at Kelson's in Kent, Wa. My generic car club puts it on at a
>location that has a complete antique gas station. We get over 100
>cars on show day.
>
>Tim Bowman
>'71 F100 & other FOMOCO's
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>

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:28:18 -0500 (EST)
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Need advice

Where i work we have a 1995 ford van with in line 6 has less than 37k
miles on it . It has had 2 oil pumps put in it in less than a year .
last week it had a new motor put in it . The van makes alot of short
trips less than a mile round trip . some times as many as 50 trips a day
. The guy at the shop said that we should change the oil around 500 to
1000 miles . Is this necessary
or is there something else that can be done ? They said the short trips
dont let the motor get hot enough to let the oil drain back so it gets
all sludged up in the block. Does it hurt a motor to let it sit and run
for 30 to 45 minutes between runs .
Thanks for any help

Randy

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:27:35 -0500
From: "Parsons, Raymond"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Fuel pick-up problem

Colo Jeff wrote: "What year truck are you working on? Sounds like one with
the tank in the cab? If so, you should be able to pull the pickup tube out
real easy, just 5 or 6
screws and removal of the fuel line."

The truck is a 67 F250 C/S, and yes it is the in cab tank. Unfortunately,
the pick up tube is welded to the top of the tank! I am taking it in to
have it repaired; I know I do not want to try welding on a tank!
Ray


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:41:06 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need advice

>Where i work we have a 1995 ford van with in line 6 has less than 37k
>miles on it . It has had 2 oil pumps put in it in less than a year .
>last week it had a new motor put in it . The van makes alot of short
>trips less than a mile round trip . some times as many as 50 trips a day
>. The guy at the shop said that we should change the oil around 500 to
>1000 miles . Is this necessary
>or is there something else that can be done ?
Drive it ... that's the only other thing. The idling you mention below
isn't good for it, but probably better than just sitting shut off and
running for a mile. The other thing you'll be replacing soon is the
exhaust ...all that water building up and puddling in there ... I imagine
your Cat looks real good too ... engines really need to be brought up to
full operating temperatures regularly to keep the seals lubed and
everything flowing properly. A friend's parents live on a farm, they have
an 87 F150 w/I6. They drive it enough to keep the motor from going bad,
but they've been through 4 lifetime mufflers in the last 2.5 years.
Doesn't cost them anything anymore, but they still have to take it in and
be without it while they replace the muffler again....its low mileage too
(for an 87).


They said the short trips
>dont let the motor get hot enough to let the oil drain back so it gets
>all sludged up in the block. Does it hurt a motor to let it sit and run
>for 30 to 45 minutes between runs .

Probably not any more than running it for 5 and shutting it off 50 times a day.

Are you burning through batteries too ?


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:53:57 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Burnt main wiring harness

It's been awhile but if I remember correctly the ballast resistor reduces
the amount of voltage going to the distributor AFTER engine start up. This
reduces the wear and tear on the points/condenser.

- -----Original Message-----
From: draco pacifier.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: patb sonic.net ; draco pacifier.com
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 6:54 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Burnt main wiring harness


>I agree, these wires were too long to be fuse links.
>Any idea just what an ignition ballast resistor does?
>
>My harness had two of these, unless they were two loops of
>the same wire.


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:54:59 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Another PacNW yard

Hey Mark, let us know what you find if you go! It does sound like a good
lead!

- -----Original Message-----
From: draco pacifier.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: Sean pacifier.com ; Hess pacifier.com
; schess gte.net
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 6:56 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Another PacNW yard


>>
>I have never heard of this place. We are talking Portland,
>OR, not Portland, Maine right? :) This sounds like such a
>good lead, I may just have to check it out today at lunch.
>


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:08:59 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - starters

Hi,
Thanks for all of the responses regarding my starter problems.
Sounds like I need a new starter. Bummer - that things a pain to change!!
Tom
Reno,NV

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 12:02:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

I've heard different opinions on how the 460 seats it seals and such, I've
heard that it takes over 5k miles, I've hear it takes a couple thousand,
I've heard a few hundred, but still no definite answer here. I bought m
rebuilt 460 from Autotech about 5 months ago, it has about 4500 miles oon
it. Now, apparently, there is an oil problem, which I'm sure most of you
have heard about from me before this. Anyway, I can't figure out if it's
leaking through my rings, or of the valve stems are guided wrong, or what
exactly it is. I checked my plugs, and they're sooty, but I figure that
it carbon depositing, not oil. I lose about 1/2 quart per week, or
around that much, but can't figure out why. Any help with this would be
appreciated.

-Justin Farcas --
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 12:06:59 -0600
From: Steve Schmeckpeper
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

I had the same problem after I rebuilt a 302 in my 79 150. I put some dress-up
valve covers on and disconnected the hose that went from the breather cap to
the air cleaner. The rebuild engine had a little blow-by and was building
pressure in crankcase causing oil to blow out the seals. Soon as I hooked the
hose back up it stopped using oil. Hope this helps.
Smeck

Justin Farcas wrote:

> I've heard different opinions on how the 460 seats it seals and such, I've
> heard that it takes over 5k miles, I've hear it takes a couple thousand,
> I've heard a few hundred, but still no definite answer here. I bought m
> rebuilt 460 from Autotech about 5 months ago, it has about 4500 miles oon
> it. Now, apparently, there is an oil problem, which I'm sure most of you
> have heard about from me before this. Anyway, I can't figure out if it's
> leaking through my rings, or of the valve stems are guided wrong, or what
> exactly it is. I checked my plugs, and they're sooty, but I figure that
> it carbon depositing, not oil. I lose about 1/2 quart per week, or
> around that much, but can't figure out why. Any help with this would be
> appreciated.
>
> -Justin Farcas --
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:42:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Burnt main wiring harness

Mark wrote:
> Pat Brown
> > The purple resistor wire in the harness is the ignition
> > ballast resistor.
>
> I agree, these wires were too long to be fuse links.
> Any idea just what an ignition ballast resistor does?
>

For normal running, the resistor limits the current thru the
points and coil. Keeps coil from overheating, and helps the
points last longer.

> My harness had two of these, unless they were two loops of
> the same wire.

Probably the same wire, I don't know what else would use one.
Anyone with a wiring diagram?
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:51:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Loose steering, Was Thanks

Randy Asks:
> Thanks for the help on the pulling to the left problem . It was a brake
> adjustment problem . Now i need some help with my steering box . The
> truck is a 1977 F250 4x4 . since i have bought the truck i have gained
> about 2" of play in the steering .everything under the truck looks tight
> . With someone turning the wheel side to side ( about 4") nothing moves
> under the truck . Can i adjust this out ????? Or do i look for a
> steering box ? What years will fit ? Can i put a steering box from a
> newer model on it ? Thanks for any help.

Does your truck have u-joints or a flex coupling in the steering
shaft? Look at the bottom of the column where the box hooks up.
A bunch of people just posted replacement part numbers for the
u-joint setup, I ignored them because mine has a flex coupling.
The flex coupling is connected thru a piece of rubber, it can
fall apart and cause plenty of play. I'll defer 4x4 steering boxes
to the others . . .
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:54:18 -0700 (MST)
From: Scott William Richmond
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Crew Cab for sale

Hey everybody,

Last night I looked at a '72 Crew Cab 2WD. It is dark green and the body
isn't too bad, no rust in the floors, bed or frame and only small holes on
the bottom of a couple of the doors. I think the only dent was on the box
and it wasn't that big. The only really rough spot was the roof on the
drivers side where it looked like something had fallen on it at some point
and somebody did some poor quality body work to fix it. The seats are
pretty thrashed, but he has one of those good heavy duty seat covers on
the front seat. It has power brakes and the manual steering is surprisingly
easy to steer unlike my '71. As for repairs it needs a heater core, front
shocks, maybe some front end parts, and the motor (300 I6) blows a lot of
blue. It has a T-18 which seems to work fine. Some new tires wouldn't
hurt either.

He was asking $1200 in the paper, but when I got there he said his wife
picked that price and he was very open to offers. He agreed to take $450,
but I was starting to have second thoughts by that point so I didn't buy
it. Anyway the reason I'm posting this is if anyone is interested in this
truck his number is 403-226-6924. I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada and
the truck is just outside the city. I really wish I could buy it, but
between my room-mate and I we have four 4X4's in front of the house, two
of which are quite large and I don't want to risk pushing the neighbors
too far.

Scott
'71 F100 4X4
'79 F350 4X4

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:17:38 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Thanks,more questions

> ----------
> From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net[SMTP:FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 9:49 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thanks,more questions
>
> Thanks for the help on the pulling to the left problem . It was a brake
> adjustment problem . Now i need some help with my steering box . The
> truck is a 1977 F250 4x4 . since i have bought the truck i have gained
> about 2" of play in the steering .everything under the truck looks tight
> . With someone turning the wheel side to side ( about 4") nothing moves
> under the truck . Can i adjust this out ????? Or do i look for a
> steering box ? What years will fit ? Can i put a steering box from a
> newer model on it ? Thanks for any help.
>
>
> Randy
>
Hi Randy
If all the tie-rods/steering links look tight, the next thing to check is
the U-joint in the steering column shaft between the gear box and steering
wheel. Have a partner rock the steering wheel back/forth while you look
for slop in the U-joint. You should see absolutely NO slop in the U-joint
because It doesn't take much slop here to feel like a lot of play at the
steering wheel.
Have you ever adjusted the stud sticking out of the top of the box?


I'm assuming this truck uses an integral power steering box and not a
hydraulic slave cylinder.
Tracy

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:52:57 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - dual battery

> ----------
> From: Pat Brown[SMTP:patb sonic.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 12:20 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dual battery
>
snip
> Well, that about covers the easy ways to do it. The best (IMHO) way
> is with a battery isolator, costing $20 and up. This is a pair of
> back-to-back diodes which will provide automatic isolation and charging
> of your two (or three) batteries.
>
Hmmm. It's been a few years, but I seem to remember those things costing
$40-$80 depending on it's capacity

> What's wrong with connecting two batteries directly? This works well
> for jump starting, but have you ever noticed on a REALLY dead battery
> that jump starting doesn't work well?
snip
You can connect the two batts directly but this is risky (2 dead
batts) and has limited applications. For example, you don't want your alt.
trying to run the winch, which means you need to shut the engine down when
winching.
snip
> Or, if manually selected,
> rely on me or you to do the right thing. We can forget:-), and as
> Mr. Murphy predicted, we will forget at the worst time and do the
> most amount of damage.
LOL yep, Murphy will getcha!! I can tell you from experience that it takes
3 days for an energized solenoid to drain two big batts. I now use lighted
rocker switches in the cab and haven't forgotten since.

snipity

> . Run your winch, camper, trailer, power tools etc off
> the second battery, and you'll always have a nice fresh battery to
> start with. Unless, of course, you leave your headlights on and play
> with your winch all night :-)
> --
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California
>
Always shut the lights off before playing with your Winch. ;)

Tracy


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 18:30:36 -0400
From: billybobdesade mindspring.com (william coulter)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79-I HATE MY TAILLIGHTS

problems of that type are generally caused by electricity feeding back
through the system. water is most likely the culprit. before going into the
wiring and switches start with the items furtherest away and work your way
in. don't do like i did once and tear in to the harness only to find i had
a corroded turn signal light socket causing all my lights to flash. chances
are your problem is a lot simpler than you think..... bvilly bob



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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:44:58 PST
From: "Andy D"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - love your tailights

> BTW- The big tornado that went through Jackson, Tennessee
Sunday
>night was about 12 miles from me.

I lived in Henderson till I joined the Marines in 93


Andy
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/7464
ICQ# 13179729
70 F-100,360 2v (soon to be 4v),C/6
56 F-600,272 2v (soon to be factory 4v),4speed
56 F-100 Bigwindow,223 1v,3speed


______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:32:43 -0800
From: Steve & Rockette Leitch
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need advice

At 10:28 AM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Where i work we have a 1995 ford van with in line 6 has less than 37k
>miles on it . It has had 2 oil pumps put in it in less than a year .
>last week it had a new motor put in it . The van makes alot of short
>trips less than a mile round trip . some times as many as 50 trips a day
>. The guy at the shop said that we should change the oil around 500 to
>1000 miles .

As the head Maintenance flunky for a large Pac NW privately owned
company, I suggest that you dont shut the van off when you're on
delivery runs. I finally managed to convince my Boss that our IH DT466
is capable of running constantly, and that the constant cycle of start/
run a short distance/shut down was going to kill it. After replacing 6
starters He finally gave the order " Don't shut it off til you get back here".

The trick is to get the driver another key, so one key stays in the ignition,
but he/she can still lock the van if they're making a delivery.....


Steve & the Rockette



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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 19:39:57 -0500
From: "HARLEY A PUTNAM"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tail lights won't go out

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:17:05 -0800 (PST)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I HATE my taillights...

OK, I give up. My cotton picking taillights won't turn off. :(
What is the problem here?? I've disconnected the headlight switch, the
fuses to the hazards and the brake lights. Nothing will turn them off.
I'm working on a 77 F150. ANybody have any ideas, I'm stumped... :(
Thanks.

- - --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----
Daniel H. Jenkins Food for thought: John Milton
djenkins honors.unr.edu wrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Program wife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno _Regained_...


Daniel, get someone to lift up on the brake pedal and see if they go out
when they do this. You may have a bad or misadjusted brake light switch.
Cheap, easy to fix! All electrical problems should be that simple, and I
hope yours is!

The Dirtyman

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 19:37:55 EST
From: Pyrate951 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - starters

I have to take my headers off to change mine. It gets so hot I have had
change it twice in 3 years.
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:36:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

Thanks man, I'll give it a try. One problem....
I don't have th originalair filter assembly... :(

Thanks again,
Justin Farcas

>
> I had the same problem after I rebuilt a 302 in my 79 150. I put some dress-up
> valve covers on and disconnected the hose that went from the breather cap to
> the air cleaner. The rebuild engine had a little blow-by and was building
> pressure in crankcase causing oil to blow out the seals. Soon as I hooked the
> hose back up it stopped using oil. Hope this helps.
> Smeck
>
> Justin Farcas wrote:
>
> > I've heard different opinions on how the 460 seats it seals and such, I've
> > heard that it takes over 5k miles, I've hear it takes a couple thousand,
> > I've heard a few hundred, but still no definite answer here. I bought m
> > rebuilt 460 from Autotech about 5 months ago, it has about 4500 miles oon
> > it. Now, apparently, there is an oil problem, which I'm sure most of you
> > have heard about from me before this. Anyway, I can't figure out if it's
> > leaking through my rings, or of the valve stems are guided wrong, or what
> > exactly it is. I checked my plugs, and they're sooty, but I figure that
> > it carbon depositing, not oil. I lose about 1/2 quart per week, or
> > around that much, but can't figure out why. Any help with this would be
> > appreciated.
> >
> > -Justin Farcas --
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


- --
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:42:00 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust/oil

Can someone please give me some advice on checking if an engine is burning
oil? I already know that oil smoke is blue, and has a prettty distinct
smell. My 460 might be burning oil, I don't knoe for sure. I revved it
today, checking the exhaust, and when the smoke first comes out, it's a
blackish brown, then as the cloud flows into the air further it turns
whitish-blue...I'm stumped. Any explanantions or precedures for checking
potential oil burning would be helpful and appreciated...


-Jusitn Farcas
--
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 19:06:08 -0700
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 2v -4v swap

After awhile they will wear to their particular rocker. If they get
switched around they could start making noise.

Oh yeah Chris. One more thing. One of the bolts that holds the rocker shaft
in place is kinda tapered. You'll notice it's different from all the
others. When you pull it apart, make sure this bolt goes back where it came
out. Oil has to get through there.

>c'mon guys...I'm 5'4" and 115 lbs and i did the swap myself on my
>f250/360 with no pulleys, hoists, or helpers...it's not muchmore than
>80-90 lbs or so. put a foot on either frame rail, and lift! ;-)

First time I tried this I slipped on the greasy frame while going up with
the intake. I bashed me knee so bad it hurt all the way down my let, and I
think I pulled something in my chest. Never again.

Later,

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net

>Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 07:13:32 -0800
>From: "Bill Beyer"

>Is there something about FEs that requires the pushrods to be put back in
>the same locations?

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:34:47 -0500
From: "Michael Linnane"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

Recently the 352 in my 1967 F-250 Camper Special developed some serious
problems. While driving down the interstate it overheated and started to
make a LOUD knocking sound. I pulled over immediately and let the engine
cool down then removed the thermostat. But it was too late and now I have a
serious knocking problem in the lower part of the engine. I can get a
remanufactured 352 long block for about $1500.00 or I can have the 352 that
is in it rebuilt for $1000.00. Can I trust the remanufactured engines sold
at local autopart stores or should I have the one in it rebuilt? I would
really like to here from anyone who has had good or bad luck with these
remanufactured long blocks.

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:24:40 EST
From: JefriHansn aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD

Thanks for all the people who emailed back about my vibration/140w oil leak
in the front of my transmission. I kinda knew this, but after spending $3000
these past 4 months just to keep this thing on the road - didn't want to admit
it. NOW,,, I've found a place who'll sell me a rebuilt 4 speed (3 speed
road, unsichronized ultra low 1st). BUT HOW DO I TELL HOW TO ANSWER WHICH ONE
I HAVE? He asks: Borg-Warner, or New Process. Told me it would be stamped in
it, or attatched to a label plate. Well, it's not stamped in it anywhere, and
there are reminets of a long ago rusted/busted off label plate. It's NOT full
time 4WD, and looking at the Haynes manual - beleave it's a 205 transfer case.
(That lable is rusted/busted gone also)
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:41:25 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Good ole Flames

Got a curious question. I got my good ole 460 running real good, tuned up
nice and eveything, getting 13mpg! with 4.10 gears and 31x9's. Anyways,
enough on that. I have dual exhaust with cherry bombs, and side exit pipes
on each side. Slowing down (under a load or sitting still), it shoot a
flame out the drivers side at least a couple of feet, never on the
passenger side. It dosent do it all the time, just sometimes. I ran a
air leak-down test, and did a pressure test on the entire engine, and
everything is sealed up good. Any ideas??

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

Oh yea, there is a hole about the size of a quarter in the pipe where the
front drive-shaft wore though. Could it be sucking air in there and
combusting the pipe?




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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:35:56 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD

where is reverse? over and up, or over and down? up means BW T-18, down
means NP435
Darrell Duggan
74 F-350
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:56:05 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - love your tailights

HOO-RAH, I ship to San Diego on 15 June!

- --Bud (son of Stoney)
1979 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
1976 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)


At 03:44 PM 1/20/99 PST, you wrote:
>> BTW- The big tornado that went through Jackson, Tennessee
>Sunday
>>night was about 12 miles from me.
>
>I lived in Henderson till I joined the Marines in 93
>
>
>Andy
>www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/7464
>ICQ# 13179729
>70 F-100,360 2v (soon to be 4v),C/6
>56 F-600,272 2v (soon to be factory 4v),4speed
>56 F-100 Bigwindow,223 1v,3speed
>
>
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:56:10 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Skill Offroad

I'll add to that. For those of you who havent read my exploits, I like to see
how high I can launch my truck in the air. My current record is 32 ft out, 6
ft up. But anyways I take joy in 80 MPH runs at washboard roads, launches off
cliffs, and other stuff. Aside from bendin front rims every other time I go
out, I havent caused any damage. Ok so I lost my tailgate, but that was
because it only latched on one side, Long story, but that part wasnt my fault.
I plan on paintin this truck some day. As soon as my pic get put on the
website, you'll see what I mean. But even after I do, I fully plan on
continuing to bounce this beast. Ok I've tooted my horn long enough.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:00:29 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need advice

In a message dated 1/20/99 7:31:38 AM Pacific Standard Time, FORD-
TRUCK-70 webtv.net writes:


1000 miles . Is this necessary
or is there something else that can be done ? >>

Today's oils with the latest API ratings should be able to withstand start and
stop driving for at least 3000 miles. Sounds to me like this engine probably
had some other problems. However, to drive the moisture out of the crankcase
you do need to let the engine reach normal operating temperature periodically.
Of course if you are serious about engine life and oil, use a good synthetic,
Mobil-1, AMS-OIL, etc they will not change in your engine to something else.
You will save money big time in the long run. I've used synthetic oils in all
of my vehicles since the 70's and have some amazing stories about synthetics.
Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:06:45 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

Depends on what brand long block it is. Local mechanic shops and auto
parts dealers rely on engine rebuilding companies to supply them. When my
father spun the bearings on his homebuilt 460, we opted for the quick fix
and went to a mechanic that we know that supplies long blocks built by
Jasper. Jasper is supposed to be about the best one around, with an
unlimited 5 year/30,000 mile warranty. But, we had to go through 3 Jasper
460's to finally find one that held oil pressure, so my only experience
with Jasper has been tainted. But, their reputation still stands strong,
and they did not charge us a dime extra to remove and replace the engine 3
times. I am sure there is quite a few people in the list that will say
that Jasper has only given them good experiences, so my belief is that our
"family luck" just played it's role and gave us as hard a time as possible.
Be advised though, if your previous 352 was souped up any way, you will
probably have a signifigant power loss at the stock rebuild of the long
block...we noticed about a half of the horsepower disappeared with the new
engine. Mainly, because the homebuilt 460 was a '68 engine, that was built
as powerful as we could afford, and had around 425 horses on the dyno. The
new engine was a linearly correct '83 engine with about 200 horses, stock.
So, we noticed a serious power difference. And when did we find out about
this power difference, you might ask? While hauling a 10,000 lb. trailer
full of hay from central Kentucky to south Texas...made a very tedious
trip...oh, well. Just have to try your luck!

- --Bud (son of Stoney)
1979 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
1976 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)

At 09:34 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
> Recently the 352 in my 1967 F-250 Camper Special developed some serious
>problems. While driving down the interstate it overheated and started to
>make a LOUD knocking sound. I pulled over immediately and let the engine
>cool down then removed the thermostat. But it was too late and now I have a
>serious knocking problem in the lower part of the engine. I can get a
>remanufactured 352 long block for about $1500.00 or I can have the 352 that
>is in it rebuilt for $1000.00. Can I trust the remanufactured engines sold
>at local autopart stores or should I have the one in it rebuilt? I would
>really like to here from anyone who has had good or bad luck with these
>remanufactured long blocks.
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:10:48 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD

Not necessarily...my NP435 was right and down...so is my current T-18

Bud (son of Stoney)
1979 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
1976 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)

At 09:35 PM 1/20/99 EST, you wrote:
>where is reverse? over and up, or over and down? up means BW T-18, down
>means NP435
>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:46:01 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines

I work at Jasper, and live about 30mins from the headquarters (Jasper
Indiana), and we have had only a few problems with them, + we get trannys
from them. As for the warrenty, they went to 50,000 5 year now, and will
soon be going higer yet again...

cannandale
'78 f250 4x4, 460

At 10:14 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Depends on what brand long block it is. Local mechanic shops and auto
>parts dealers rely on engine rebuilding companies to supply them. When my
>father spun the bearings on his homebuilt 460, we opted for the quick fix
>and went to a mechanic that we know that supplies long blocks built by
>Jasper. Jasper is supposed to be about the best one around, with an
>unlimited 5 year/30,000 mile warranty. But, we had to go through 3 Jasper
>460's to finally find one that held oil pressure, so my only experience
>with Jasper has been tainted. But, their reputation still stands strong,
>and they did not charge us a dime extra to remove and replace the engine 3
>times. I am sure there is quite a few people in the list that will say
>that Jasper has only given them good experiences, so my belief is that our
>"family luck" just played it's role and gave us as hard a time as possible.
> Be advised though, if your previous 352 was souped up any way, you will
>probably have a signifigant power loss at the stock rebuild of the long
>block...we noticed about a half of the horsepower disappeared with the new
>engine. Mainly, because the homebuilt 460 was a '68 engine, that was built
>as powerful as we could afford, and had around 425 horses on the dyno. The
>new engine was a linearly correct '83 engine with about 200 horses, stock.
>So, we noticed a serious power difference. And when did we find out about
>this power difference, you might ask? While hauling a 10,000 lb. trailer
>full of hay from central Kentucky to south Texas...made a very tedious
>trip...oh, well. Just have to try your luck!
>
>--Bud (son of Stoney)
>1979 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
>1976 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)
>
>At 09:34 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> Recently the 352 in my 1967 F-250 Camper Special developed some serious
>>problems. While driving down the interstate it overheated and started to
>>make a LOUD knocking sound. I pulled over immediately and let the engine
>>cool down then removed the thermostat. But it was too late and now I have a
>>serious knocking problem in the lower part of the engine. I can get a
>>remanufactured 352 long block for about $1500.00 or I can have the 352 that
>>is in it rebuilt for $1000.00. Can I trust the remanufactured engines sold
>>at local autopart stores or should I have the one in it rebuilt? I would
>>really like to here from anyone who has had good or bad luck with these
>>remanufactured long blocks.
>>
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:02:03 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines

Sounds like a winner, like i said, was probably a fluke with our family luck!

- --Bud (son of Stoney)
1979 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
1976 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)

At 10:46 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I work at Jasper, and live about 30mins from the headquarters (Jasper
>Indiana), and we have had only a few problems with them, + we get trannys
>from them. As for the warrenty, they went to 50,000 5 year now, and will
>soon be going higer yet again...
>
>cannandale
>'78 f250 4x4, 460
>
>At 10:14 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>Depends on what brand long block it is. Local mechanic shops and auto
>>parts dealers rely on engine rebuilding companies to supply them. When my
>>father spun the bearings on his homebuilt 460, we opted for the quick fix
>>and went to a mechanic that we know that supplies long blocks built by
>>Jasper. Jasper is supposed to be about the best one around, with an
>>unlimited 5 year/30,000 mile warranty. But, we had to go through 3 Jasper
>>460's to finally find one that held oil pressure, so my only experience
>>with Jasper has been tainted. But, their reputation still stands strong,
>>and they did not charge us a dime extra to remove and replace the engine 3
>>times. I am sure there is quite a few people in the list that will say
>>that Jasper has only given them good experiences, so my belief is that our
>>"family luck" just played it's role and gave us as hard a time as possible.
>> Be advised though, if your previous 352 was souped up any way, you will
>>probably have a signifigant power loss at the stock rebuild of the long
>>block...we noticed about a half of the horsepower disappeared with the new
>>engine. Mainly, because the homebuilt 460 was a '68 engine, that was built
>>as powerful as we could afford, and had around 425 horses on the dyno. The
>>new engine was a linearly correct '83 engine with about 200 horses, stock.
>>So, we noticed a serious power difference. And when did we find out about
>>this power difference, you might ask? While hauling a 10,000 lb. trailer
>>full of hay from central Kentucky to south Texas...made a very tedious
>>trip...oh, well. Just have to try your luck!
>>
>>--Bud (son of Stoney)
>>1979 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
>>1976 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)
>>
>>At 09:34 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>> Recently the 352 in my 1967 F-250 Camper Special developed some serious
>>>problems. While driving down the interstate it overheated and started to
>>>make a LOUD knocking sound. I pulled over immediately and let the engine
>>>cool down then removed the thermostat. But it was too late and now I have a
>>>serious knocking problem in the lower part of the engine. I can get a
>>>remanufactured 352 long block for about $1500.00 or I can have the 352 that
>>>is in it rebuilt for $1000.00. Can I trust the remanufactured engines sold
>>>at local autopart stores or should I have the one in it rebuilt? I would
>>>really like to here from anyone who has had good or bad luck with these
>>>remanufactured long blocks.
>>>
>>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>>
>>>
>>
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:10:27 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines

I mean i work at a shop where we use jasper.. haha

At 10:49 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I work at Jasper, and live about 30mins from the headquarters (Jasper
>Indiana), and we have had only a few problems with them, + we get trannys
>from them. As for the warrenty, they went to 50,000 5 year now, and will
>soon be going higer yet again...
>
>cannandale
>'78 f250 4x4, 460
>
>At 10:14 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>Depends on what brand long block it is. Local mechanic shops and auto
>>parts dealers rely on engine rebuilding companies to supply them. When my
>>father spun the bearings on his homebuilt 460, we opted for the quick fix
>>and went to a mechanic that we know that supplies long blocks built by
>>Jasper. Jasper is supposed to be about the best one around, with an
>>unlimited 5 year/30,000 mile warranty. But, we had to go through 3 Jasper
>>460's to finally find one that held oil pressure, so my only experience
>>with Jasper has been tainted. But, their reputation still stands strong,
>>and they did not charge us a dime extra to remove and replace the engine 3
>>times. I am sure there is quite a few people in the list that will say
>>that Jasper has only given them good experiences, so my belief is that our
>>"family luck" just played it's role and gave us as hard a time as possible.
>> Be advised though, if your previous 352 was souped up any way, you will
>>probably have a signifigant power loss at the stock rebuild of the long
>>block...we noticed about a half of the horsepower disappeared with the new
>>engine. Mainly, because the homebuilt 460 was a '68 engine, that was built
>>as powerful as we could afford, and had around 425 horses on the dyno. The
>>new engine was a linearly correct '83 engine with about 200 horses, stock.
>>So, we noticed a serious power difference. And when did we find out about
>>this power difference, you might ask? While hauling a 10,000 lb. trailer
>>full of hay from central Kentucky to south Texas...made a very tedious
>>trip...oh, well. Just have to try your luck!
>>
>>--Bud (son of Stoney)
>>1979 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
>>1976 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)
>>
>>At 09:34 PM 1/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>> Recently the 352 in my 1967 F-250 Camper Special developed some serious
>>>problems. While driving down the interstate it overheated and started to
>>>make a LOUD knocking sound. I pulled over immediately and let the engine
>>>cool down then removed the thermostat. But it was too late and now I have a
>>>serious knocking problem in the lower part of the engine. I can get a
>>>remanufactured 352 long block for about $1500.00 or I can have the 352 that
>>>is in it rebuilt for $1000.00. Can I trust the remanufactured engines sold
>>>at local autopart stores or should I have the one in it rebuilt? I would
>>>really like to here from anyone who has had good or bad luck with these
>>>remanufactured long blocks.
>>>
>>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>>
>>>
>>
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

....


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