61-79-list-digest Wednesday, May 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 178



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - it wont let go of my M-block !!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Q-jets
Re: FTE 61-79 - Old Glass
FTE 61-79 - Hot start
FTE 61-79 - Fuel Starve
RE: FTE 61-79 - Vehicle Appraisal - Was: Insurance
FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 project
Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...
FTE 61-79 - 2 in 1: radiator and distributor
FTE 61-79 - Value of 1966 F100 4x4

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:51:17 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - it wont let go of my M-block !!!

i had that problem on my 460, but i just started putting a little greese
where it toches the block and have never had a problem since..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 10:14 PM 5/25/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>For some reason Ford Distributors have a tendency to stick in place, they
>will turn but be almost impossable to remove. In the past I have used a
>couple of hook shaped pry bar to work them out. This problem is so bad that
>at one time Snap-On Tools offered a slide hammer attachment just for
>removing stuck Dord distributors.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:Serian [SMTP:serian flashmail.com]
>Sent:Tuesday, May 25, 1999 8:04 PM
>To:61-79 FordList
>Subject:FTE 61-79 - it wont let go of my M-block !!!
>
>Ok ... I have a 351M with a bad DuraSpark II,
>distributor in it, and I went to change it today ...
>no luck, as it won't come out !?!?!
>
>I removed the usual little 1/2" bolt and hold
>down wedge, but the dirty lil bugger still holds
>on to that block like there's no tomorrow.
>Is there something else other than the usual
>distributor hold-down bolt'n'wedge similar to
>that which is found on W-blocks ?
>
>No point in tellin me to just change the individual
>piece that is bad, as in the process of pulling on
>it to get it out, I busted the whole works all to
>crap, and so now my original plan of changing out
>the whole unit is a must :-P
>
>Any suggestions ? I've tried the standard pry it
>with a screwdriver, BIG screwdriver, little pry bar,
>wrecking bar, and little pry bar with a big pipe on it.
>The hold-down that I could find is out and lying loose
>on the intake manifold, so I know thats not what
>wants to keep it in there ... what else can there be ?
>
>
>
>
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>


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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:46:16 -0400
From: "John Pajak"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Q-jets

William L. Ballinger wrote:

Please don't get the impression that I'm debating the value of a Q-jet.
I agree with you entirely about the added flexibility the Q-Jet adds.
It just seems that the way it runs that it's running out of fuel, but I'm
open to suggestions.

********
Well, in my experience the cure is to run an electic fuel pump mounted
near the fuel tank as a 'pusher'. You can retain the stock mechannical pump
or just omit it entirely. My experience is with 455 Old*mobiles but it
should hold true for a hungry Henry also!
To verify you could always tee in a fuel pressure gauge right before
the inlet and test the pressure at full throttle. I think 3 lbs is a good
minimum. Any less and you are gradually running the bowls dry. It just takes
longer in a Holley because of the greater capacity, but you are still
running too lean (and may not realize it) since carbs are designed to meter
fuel based on a given fuel level in the bowl.
BTW my rejetted Qjet ETs as well as any Holley I ever tried.

John Pajak
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak



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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:53:20 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Old Glass

you can get kits to re-polish glass, dad got a kit from jc-whitney, i dont
remember all it had, but you ran it in a drill, had a buffing compound and
some diffrent types of disks it worked great, just took a while..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 10:16 PM 5/25/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I've got pretty good glass in my truck - no cracks, no fogging. However,
>there is a fair amount of scratches combined with what looks to be filmy
>build-up.... maybe old rubber? etc. I've tried every cleaning solution I
>could think of - the usual window stuff, as well as straight ammonia, etc.
>I'd like to keep the glass, but haven't been able to figure out a way to
>clean/polish it to a reasonable level. Could some of you share your ideas
>for this? Thanks. Jack
>
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>


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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:03:53 -0700
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hot start

Digesters: Am resurrecting a 78 Van and am having hot start problems.
Have had this with GMs amd AMCs in the past but not Fords. Starter or
selenoid,whats your guess?

TIA Al
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:10:54 -0700
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel Starve

William: I cured the same problem on a 390 race engine by going to
bigger fuel lines thru out the system.


FWIW Al
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:18:53 -0700
From: "bertolin"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Vehicle Appraisal - Was: Insurance

Mark, I had my truck appraised in order to get comprehensive insurance
coverage (appraised value/Farmer's Ins. Co). I found appraisers in the phone
book under Automotive-Appraisers. I paid ~$40.00. He looked at my truck,
looked in a book and gave me the necessary slip of paper to give to my
insurance company.
Hope this helps. Roberta with 1965 F-100 custom cab.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of draco pacifier.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 8:22 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Cc: draco pacifier.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vehicle Appraisal - Was: Insurance
>
>
> Several people mentioned getting appraisals on their trucks. My
> question is, who do you take it to for an accurate appraisal?
> Are there people who do this as a buisness? How much does it
> cost?
>
> Mark in Southwest Washington
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
> --
> '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
> Sold the Supercab
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:24:13 -0700
From: "K. Moulton"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 project

Thanx for the info on the manifold and carb. I think I will opt to use
the Q-jet w/ an adaptor, for ecomical reasons if nothing else.

> also a brief description ... I imagine your T-bird intake is similar
to the
> Galaxie's. I'm not sure why people say that the larger opening with
the
> smaller heads is bad, I guess if it was too extreme it could be a
problem,
> but I haven't had any problems I could blame on that ...

>The problem is that the mixture flows along and then smacks into the
>cylinder head protruding into it's path. It's better to port match the

>heads in this case. Running an intake smaller than the head doesn't
>hurt, because the mixture can run free.

I had thought about exactly that... what if I were to bevel out the
edges of the ports on the heads, so that the air/fuel mixture had a
smooth flow? I'm going to have half the engine apart anyway, what's a
few head bolts and exhaust bolts more? I think I'm going to have to buy
another car to get back and forth with because everything I take off
that engine, I'm just gonna figure "well, I'm this far, why not
just..... too?" LOL :)

>Something I meant to mention earlier, is that on my intake of the same
>casting number there are soft plugs in the front where the oil filler,
>and in the back where the road draft tube used to be on the old stuff.
>Look them over to be sure they won't leak oil. The back one would be
>tough to change in-chassis.

Both the oil filler and the road draft tube fitting are in place, tight
enough that they ain't comin' off w/o screwing something up. So, when I
cleaned everything up, I just left 'em there and cleaned over, thru, in
and around 'em.

Yeah, body mounts... uh huh, I had my '66 on the lift at work one day
(sucks, we can't work on our own rigs there) checking out chassis and
suspension, and I wiggled a cab mount bolt and off it came. Front one.
The one on the other side is almost that bad. I think I've found the
rust accumulation, out of all the places that could be eaten thru,
that's the only troublesome spot. Thought I'd try popping in a huge
washer on the inside part of the cab, see if that'll hold for a year or
so. Thoughts? Thanks :)

Kathy

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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 01:32:02 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...

I bought a couple of Sylvania Rough Service at Farm and Fleet a couple of weeks ago. I think they were $2.99 apiece. They aren't bulletproof, but they don't pop when you bump them on the hood latch.
I left the light hooked to one of the rollers on the garage door and closed it. It slammed pretty hard due to it being pretty much shot. Even after my mental lapse, the bulb survived.

Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH


William S Hart wrote:

> Does anyone remember the thread a while back about rugged light bulbs for
> trouble lights ? There was one that a few of you recommended as being very
> durable, but they were like $12 a piece ... with Dad's b-day and father's
> day comin up, I'd better start thinkin of stuff to get him and this was one
> of the things that came to mind ... unfortunately I couldn't find the
> message that I thought I saved with the info in it ...
>
> Anyone remember or have this info ?
>
> Thanks,
> wish
> 73ish F-1?? 4x4
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> 96 Mustang GT
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
>
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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 02:33:03 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2 in 1: radiator and distributor

First to the radiator. I agree most are shipped equiped for auto's it is
cheaper to stock and make one that will do the job of two. This should
present no problem. The plastic drain can be a blessing in disguise, as it
allows draining the radiatior while the fluid is still slightly warm, and
not burning your hands while trying to spin the petcock (which all seem to
stick shut and break in my experience) The plastic one just needs be
finger tight though.

Now the 351M distributor. Mine was stuck in my 400M, but prying with a
screwdriver got it up eventually. Nothing holds it in but that block and
bolt. It goes thru thick metal though, and gets stuck with age. Also oil
pump driveshaft gets frozen to one part or another, don't let it fall in
the oil pan (or you'll be removing the pan anyway, see below) If it really
won't come out, then pull the oil pan, then the pump, and then you can
hammer it out from below. This is not as much a pain as it sounds (I can
get the pan out of mine in 10 mins. [but it is a 4x4 with 3" lift!]). Mine
is broke anyway, and the only one in the junkyard was frozen in there too,
and someone had broken the vac can trying to spin it. Going to Richmond
today to my friendly cheap junkyard, and will be taking every 400M type
distributor and set of locking hubs I see in there. I'll post if get two
good ones (hell, I'll post if I can get 1 good one for me, I'll be so happy
to get my truck running again)

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 02:42:38 CDT
From: "PitStop Performance"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Value of 1966 F100 4x4

Hello,

I know where a 1966 4x4 is sitting. I know it has been there for at least a
couple of years. It is rusty, but not too bad for central Illinois. I really
have not looked closely, but I think it is fixable. I am sure it doesn't
run, but I believe everything is there.

Any ideas on what something like this would be worth? I am thinking of
knocking on the door and making an offer (after looking it over some more).

Thanks.


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