RE: FTE 61-79 - Flex Fan

61-79-list-digest Tuesday, May 25 1999 Volume 03 : Number 177

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Flex Fan
RE: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up
FTE 61-79 - Hey she is at work!
Re: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey she is at work!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Body mounts?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sreering box
Re: FTE 61-79 - catalytic converter
FTE 61-79 - C 4 Problems
FTE 61-79 - Fellow Aussies
Re: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up
Re: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Project
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Project
FTE 61-79 - Rebuilding a 9"
FTE 61-79 - Serial Number
FTE 61-79 - Q-jet on 390
FTE 61-79 - Adjusting valves
FTE 61-79 - flex fans
FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up
FTE 61-79 - flex fans
FTE 61-79 -
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rebuilding a 9"
FTE 61-79 - 4 core radiator
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rebuilding a 9"
Re: FTE 61-79 - holley carbs
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine oil in the coolant FT391
FTE 61-79 - cab mounts
FTE 61-79 - Vehicle Appraisal - Was: Insurance
FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?
FTE 61-79 - RE: Problem with new master cylinder?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?
FTE 61-79 - Re: 66 F100 Project
FTE 61-79 - 351M tune up info was need it soon
FTE 61-79 - Need bed in NJ
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts
FTE 61-79 - More radiator notes
FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100
RE: FTE 61-79 - Serial Number
Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - More radiator notes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100
FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...
FTE 61-79 - What do you think? '77 F-150 I need to sell...
FTE 61-79 - Re:holley carb loading up
RE: FTE 61-79 - Adjusting valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts
FTE 61-79 - C-6 bellhousings ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Problem with new master cylinder?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100
FTE 61-79 - it wont let go of my M-block !!!
RE: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Project
Re: FTE 61-79 - catalytic converter
RE: FTE 61-79 - it wont let go of my M-block !!!
FTE 61-79 - Old Glass
Re: FTE 61-79 - Flex Fan

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 06:16:07 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Flex Fan

I like the OEM fan with clutch myself but there is a better clutch made for
the police interceptor for the 460 which I would buy if going that route.
Not sure if the other engines have an HD unit like that?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> a 7 blade fan with clutch.Truck runs much cooler when towing and
> wheelin'.Stay away from cheapo aftermarket fan clutches.If you don't
> tow or four wheel a flex fan would probably be alright tho.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 06:28:16 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up

I just caught that....if you have them connected then they are not open to
atmospheric which is what is causing the flooding. The float bowls must be
open somewhere to atmospheric pressure or the carb can't work since all the
circuitry depends on pressure differentials between the bowl and venturi
etc..

The reason the vents are turned down to the venturi is to prevent Bernauli's
principle from pulling fuel from the bowl. If they were inserted cross ways
or even left open vertially the air passing over them would act as a
venturi.

If you want to connect them together, "T" them to another line and run it to
the air cleaner (outside of the filter element) so you have ambient
pressure. Carbs are delicately balanced air pressure devices so anything
you do to unbalance the presure differential it was designed to "see" will
affect the operation. Clogged air filters, fuel filters, insufficient pump
pressure, other than ambient pressure in the fuel bowl, manifold vacuum leak
etc. will all have a bad effect on the performance.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I don't think you should have a piece of fuel line connecting
> the two float
> bowl vents.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:46:13 -0400
From: "Upchurch, Jason"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hey she is at work!

For everyone that helped me with my overheating, and alternator light
problems I just want to say one big thank-you! I made it to work in her
this morning. 50 miles one way! Only one minor problem, but I think that
is in the tuning of my massive one barrel :-)! She stutters real bad at a
stop light like she is about to cut off, and one time did :-(. But other
than that she is purring like a kitten. Oh yeah I got a automatic.
If you guys want to give me a hint or two on a quick fix for this, you know
I will be grateful!
THANKS!
jupchurch

us.dg.com
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:32:28 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up

Also remember that some Ford fuel pumps gives more pressure than some
Holleys like. Holley has a pressure regulator to fix that.
This can cause flooding.

Bill

- ----------
> From: Peters, Gary (G.R.)
> To: '61-79-list

ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up
> Date: 25. mai 1999 12:28
>
> I just caught that....if you have them connected then they are not open
to
> atmospheric which is what is causing the flooding. The float bowls must
be
> open somewhere to atmospheric pressure or the carb can't work since all
the
> circuitry depends on pressure differentials between the bowl and venturi
> etc..
>
> The reason the vents are turned down to the venturi is to prevent
Bernauli's
> principle from pulling fuel from the bowl. If they were inserted cross
ways
> or even left open vertially the air passing over them would act as a
> venturi.
>
> If you want to connect them together, "T" them to another line and run it
to
> the air cleaner (outside of the filter element) so you have ambient
> pressure. Carbs are delicately balanced air pressure devices so anything
> you do to unbalance the presure differential it was designed to "see"
will
> affect the operation. Clogged air filters, fuel filters, insufficient
pump
> pressure, other than ambient pressure in the fuel bowl, manifold vacuum
leak
> etc. will all have a bad effect on the performance.
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> > I don't think you should have a piece of fuel line connecting
> > the two float
> > bowl vents.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:57:19 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey she is at work!

>For everyone that helped me with my overheating, and alternator light
>problems I just want to say one big thank-you! I made it to work in her
>this morning. 50 miles one way!

Glad you made it and everything worked out ...

Only one minor problem, but I think that
>is in the tuning of my massive one barrel :-)! She stutters real bad at a
>stop light like she is about to cut off, and one time did :-(.

Don't know any quick fixes, just hit all the major ones ... check timing,
and see how the carb is tuned, and that the idle is high enough (vacuum
gauge should help quite a bit in tunin the carb)

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:59:03 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Body mounts?

>Anyone have any experience replacing body mounts? The front ones are
>rusted through and the back ones have no bolts (and are rusty). Kinda
>creepy; I wonder if a minor frontal collison would cause me and the cab
>to sail forthwith, Warner Bros-like.
>

I had the floors and the body mounts on the front replaced at the same
time, so that's about the extent of my experience, but they did have to put
in washers to keep the cab level. The problem I had was that on the gravel
road I live on whenever I'd hit a washboard the cab would vibrate against
the frame ... finally got tiredof the frame hittin my foot and decided to
have it fixed. The parts are cheap, its the labor to put the stuff in
that's expensive.

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:56:36 +0800
From: "David and Cherie"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sreering box

Its a 67 Model F 350 I am looking at if that makes any differance.
Regards Dave.
Australia.

>Dave & Cherie write: >> I,m just wondering if there is any differance
between
>a steering box
>from a F100 and an F350.
>
>According to AutoZone P/N's they are the same on F100 thur F350 from '73
thru
>'79 on 2wd trucks. I don't know about other models, but I would suspect
they
>are the same. I know they are different on 4X4's.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:08:49 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - catalytic converter

Ted Stringfellow wrote:
>
> I have a 1978 F150 king cab with 351M engine that needs exhaust work and has
> no catalytic converter.
>
> What year did Ford start using catalytic converters on their trucks? I've
> heard that in 77-79 there was a mix of Fords that did or did not have
> catalytic converters..
>

I think under 6000 lb GVWR had cats. I know my 78 Bronco is a factory
non-catalyst. My 79 Bronco does have a cat.

OX
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:10:29 +0800
From: "David and Cherie"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C 4 Problems

I have a C4 that has serious problems.
Does anyone know of a web site that has step by step instructions to fix one
of these boxes.
I'm hpeless with Autos, have always had manuals.
Regards Dave.
Australia.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:11:35 +0800
From: "David and Cherie"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fellow Aussies

Are there any Aussies on this list?

Dave, West Australia.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:19:33 -0500
From: "Brett Yerks"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up

I should have been more specific about the line connecting the float bowl
vents. There is an opening at the top of the line to relieve pressure. I
think I'm going to replace the power valve first. If that doesn't work I'm
thinking the pump is putting out too much pressure.

Brett
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird

>Also remember that some Ford fuel pumps gives more pressure than some
>Holleys like. Holley has a pressure regulator to fix that.
>This can cause flooding.
>
>Bill
>
>

>I just caught that....if you have them connected then they are not open to
>atmospheric which is what is causing the flooding. The float bowls must be
>open somewhere to atmospheric pressure or the carb can't work since all the
>circuitry depends on pressure differentials between the bowl and venturi
>etc..
>
>
>> I don't think you should have a piece of fuel line connecting
>> the two float
>> bowl vents.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:19:33 -0500
From: "Brett Yerks"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up

I should have been more specific about the line connecting the float bowl
vents. There is an opening at the top of the line to relieve pressure. I
think I'm going to replace the power valve first. If that doesn't work I'm
thinking the pump is putting out too much pressure.

Brett
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird

>Also remember that some Ford fuel pumps gives more pressure than some
>Holleys like. Holley has a pressure regulator to fix that.
>This can cause flooding.
>
>Bill
>
>

>I just caught that....if you have them connected then they are not open to
>atmospheric which is what is causing the flooding. The float bowls must be
>open somewhere to atmospheric pressure or the carb can't work since all the
>circuitry depends on pressure differentials between the bowl and venturi
>etc..
>
>
>> I don't think you should have a piece of fuel line connecting
>> the two float
>> bowl vents.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:43:44 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Project

>
> also a brief description ... I imagine your T-bird intake is similar to the
> Galaxie's. I'm not sure why people say that the larger opening with the
> smaller heads is bad, I guess if it was too extreme it could be a problem,
> but I haven't had any problems I could blame on that ...

The problem is that the mixture flows along and then smacks into the
cylinder head protruding into it's path. It's better to port match the
heads in this case. Running an intake smaller than the head doesn't
hurt, because the mixture can run free.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:49:45 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Project

>The problem is that the mixture flows along and then smacks into the
>cylinder head protruding into it's path. It's better to port match the
>heads in this case. Running an intake smaller than the head doesn't
>hurt, because the mixture can run free.

Seems to me that if you had smaller intake runners, then you'd have a
smaller volume into a larger volume right ? So that should induce a
pressure drop, which I wouldn't think you'd really want if you were trying
to keep the velocities up ??? Though having a larger intake than head can
induce some edge effects that you don't want as well ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:49:38 -0400
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rebuilding a 9"

Billy writes: >>Does anyone know who had the website that had the steps to
rebuild a Ford =
9" carrier. I remember seeing a posting with a link to a page that had =
the step by step instructions. If anyone has some info it would be =
greatly appreciated.

I don't have access to the WWW, so if it doesn't infringe on anyones rights, I'd
like someone to post it to this list, so I can download it to my FOMOCO Truck
files!!!!!!

Thanks
Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:40:59 -0400
From: Benjamin Lange
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Serial Number

I was just at my local auto parts store trying to get a new right rear
emergency brake cable for a 77 F250 4x4. The guy at the counter tells me
he needs to know what serial number the truck is to get the correct one.
My first thought was it is part of the VIN but he told me no, its on a
seperate tag. I know I can measure the length of the old cable to order
the correct one but I'm still curious, does anyone know where I can find
this
alleged serial number. Thanks in advance.

Ben

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:50:58 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Q-jet on 390

> I have a stock squarebore intake for my 390. Would it work okay to use a
> spreadbore-to-squarebore adaptor on this intake? I would like to try my
> Q-jet, but the whole reason is to save money. A new intake costs almost as
> much as a new Carter AFB. I have a manual tranny, so don't have to worry
> about the kickdown. Now I'm running the stock 2v and any 4v would be an
> improvement.
>
> Marty

The adapter works fine on mine. I have an Edelbroke Performless that
has a split plenum and no holes. (open to each side) I've used it with
a '74 stock intake 390 in an F250 w/ a Thermoquad and it worked fine on
it too. I intend to use the adapter on the '65 T-Bird intake when I
rebuild my other engine.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:54:05 -0400
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Adjusting valves

Gary writes: >>Even if you put the lifters and pushrods back in the same holes,
when you
retorque the rocker assy to the head the clearances will change enough to
require resetting of the valve lash. To preserve the cam and lifter cups
and pushrods ends you should, of course, put them all back where they came
from. One misplaced lifter for instance can flatten a cam lobe in just a
few hundred miles

Isn't he talking about an FE with Hydraulics (non-adjustables)????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:53:32 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - flex fans

Dave R.,

I have a stainless steel flex fan that I got at HiLo. I like it real well
except for the rpm rating. Spend a little extra and get one rated for
racing. Mine says not to exceed 4500 rpm or it could come apart. It is much
much lighter than the original thermo clutch and pulls more air. I did have
to go with a longer spacer than the book called for to get the fan located
in the shroud the way I wanted it. If you go with stainless, be careful
while handling it. It is like an open box of razor blades.

My brother has a fiberglass flex fan on a 69 G#C 396. It also works
extremely well.

I would not go with aluminum, period.

- -- John
jlagrone

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - holley carb loading up

> Hi, I've got a 780 Holley on my 460. What causes a carb to load up at idle?
> Sometimes if I let it idle it loads up and starts chugging. To fix it I
> just rev it up to about 1500 rpm for a couple seconds to get all the gas
> out. I modified the carb with all the offroad goodies such as spring loaded
> needles and seats, whistle vents, and I've got a piece of fuel line
> connecting the two float bowl vents. It also likes to flood out every once
> in a while when it get bouncy offroading. I put a new stock fuel pump on it
> a couple weeks ago. Is it possible there is too much fuel pressure, even
> with a stock pump? Thanks in advance for any tips, I've got a big wheeling
> trip planned this weekend and I'm hoping I don't have lots of flooding
> problems.

The first thing to check is your float level, pull the sight plug, be
sure you're on level ground, and if it runs out, set the float level
down. Excessive fuel pressure can do this too. You don't need more
than 7 lbs.(5-6 is better) Install a regulator if it's a problem.
Off-roading can be difficult with a Holley, they don't like being tipped
around much, they get car-sick pretty easily.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:01:11 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - flex fans

>> The only beef I have with the flex fans is that they are so loud at idle
... I know it helps them move air, but just seems like you should hear the
engine not the fan ...

My messed up view and :
Just my 2cents

wish

This is true of the older style fans that had the 90 degree curve on the
blades, but not necessarily so on the newer models. BTW, a lot of Ford M
blocks in cars had flex fans from the factory. The bone yards down here are
full of them. If I had known this when I bought mine, I would have gone this
route instead. As far as noise goes, Cadillacs had flex fans in the early to
mid seventies, too.

- -- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http//www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:18:36 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rebuilding a 9"

William S Hart wrote:
>
> >I don't have access to the WWW, so if it doesn't infringe on anyones rights,
>

I'll try to remember to mail you a copy. I didn't see the post I sent
with the URL yesterday, so if it didn't go through, here it is again.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/REBUILD9IN/F9inch_rear_end_rebuild.htm

OX

> YIKES!!! NO WWW??? Azie, we're gonna have to drag you out of that text
> mode one of these days :)
>
> Gary writes: >>Even if you put the lifters and pushrods back in the same
> holes,
> when you
> retorque the rocker assy to the head the clearances will change enough to
> require resetting of the valve lash.
>
> >Isn't he talking about an FE with Hydraulics (non-adjustables)????
>
> I dunno, I asked but no one seems to have responded yet ... mine weren't
> adjustable on the 360 or 390, so I dunno ...
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:23:56 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - holley carbs

With all this talk of carbs, I got to wondering what I should be running on
the 390 ? Right now I'm running a 600 Holley. The truck is basically a
commuter/fun truck, back and forth to work and around havin fun in the
snow. Not much offroading, very little towing, and hauling consists of
moving my friends around, so nothing too heavy either.

The cam specs for this fresh 390 are :

Manufacturer: Melling
Cam Lift .296 .311 (intake/exhaust)
Valve Lift .512 .538
SAE Duration 292/302
0.050 Duration 214/224
Lobe Centers 104/120

Its runnin good now, just gotta get the final tune as its only got about
250 miles on it. I don't really run too many revs, so limiting myself to
5000 shouldn't be a big deal at all, I just want the low end torque to
stick around. According to the equation and assuming 100% efficiency I
only need about 571cfm, so the 600 should be enough, but with that cam I
have to wonder if that's true or not ???

Just wondering what all you guys thought? Oh yeah its an auto, so I'd like
to stick with the vacuum secondaries, and since its the middle of Iowa I
need a choke of some sort, I'd prefer an electric. Maybe I just need to
rejet and tweak the 600 a little bit ? Any suggestions would be great ...
Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:28:27 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine oil in the coolant FT391

Rollie H Hunt wrote:
>
> On Mon, 24 May 1999 08:23:05 EDT TBeeee

aol.com writes:
> >In a message dated 5/24/99 4:50:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >They did a pressure test on it and there was a crack in
> >the
> >block
> >> from the high pressure oil passage to the cooling jacket.
> >
> >This is a problem that is documented for the FT Block in Christ's
> >Book. I
> >had oil in the coolant on an FT391 out of an F-800. I had my machine
> >shop
> >perform the fix recommended in the book. Problem solved.
> What is done to fix this problem ? I want to fix this right the first
> time !
> Rollie .
You must sleeve the oil passage with a steel tube. In Steve's book, he
used a hollow pushrod. Unsure which make of rod he used.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:38:10 -0400
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts

>Anyone have any experience replacing body mounts? The front ones are
>rusted through and the back ones have no bolts (and are rusty).

I am in the cab mount quandry myself. I have bought after-market cab
mounts, (the large piece of sheet metal which entombs the whole mess) but I
do not want to use them. It just seems like a bad idea. I am looking for a
used set that I can dress to the original flange and weld them to my
original flange. I'll keep you posted.

>Kinda
>creepy; I wonder if a minor frontal collison would cause me and the cab
>to sail forthwith, Warner Bros-like.

Seems to me that the most important parts of an old truck are the brakes
and all the components which keep you attached to the brakes.

Doss Halsey
'68 F250 Camper Special
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:22:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vehicle Appraisal - Was: Insurance

Several people mentioned getting appraisals on their trucks. My
question is, who do you take it to for an accurate appraisal?
Are there people who do this as a buisness? How much does it
cost?

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
Sold the Supercab

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:23:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?

wish wrote:
> Mark wrote:
> >Oh, I should mention the only other difference is I installed a disk
> >brake proportioning valve (it has disk brakes) from a '79 F-150.
> >The master cylinder is one for '79 as well. The one I took off is
> >for a '76.
> >
> Hmmm...did brake sizes change at all? That's the only reason I can
think
> of that the proportioning valve would need any changes made to it ...
part
> numbers should tell you if there are any differences I would think ..

I didn't say what I meant very clearly. The '76 master cylinder is
listed as a different part from '77-'79. The only difference I know
of is the fittings are a different size. Could be different inside
though. The one that was on the truck when I got it looks to be a
'76 by the fittings.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
Sold the Supercab

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:24:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Problem with new master cylinder?

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
> Sounds like these are both used parts?

The master cylinder is new, not a rebuild. The proportioning valve
is from a wrecking yard. Why dosen't anyone rebuild proportioning
valves?

> If so the proportioning valve may be the sponge problem but the
> flow problem is the MC. There is no physical reason for them to
> flow differently if you block one at a time.

I am not sure if you are saying I need to check it again, blocking
the rear cylinder. The difference in flow is a lot. The front
cylinder basically just trickles.

I think you guys have me convinced there is something wrong with it.

> Proportioning valve is $106 from ford plus tax and well worth the
> effort if you have spongy brakes with disk fronts.

I do have the correct type of proportioning valve, in fact, putting
it in is what started this whole thing. I figured I may as well
slap a new MC on too.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
Sold the Supercab

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:28:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Problem with new master cylinder?

Bill Brox wrote:
> I wonder, if the master cylinder is installed, and the rod from
> the brake pedal is not adjusted properly, maybe this could happen.

The way I understand it, if the rod is too short, the pedal will
have to be pushed further to apply the brakes. If it is too long
I think the pistons might not come back enough to get fluid from
the reservoirs?

When I start the motor with my foot lightly on the pedal, I can feel
the booster pull the pedal down. I am assuming it is taking up any
freeplay.

I played around with this adjustment, checking the pedal distance
from the floor and how much freeplay I have. I started out at
0.940" and ended up at the high end of the 0.980 - 0.995" range
listed in a Chilton's manual. I don't know if these numbers are
correct because it does not list different specs for different
years from '71-'78.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
Sold the Supercab

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:32:15 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 66 F100 Project

> > C4SES425A
> > in one place, 3L22: in another. This intake came equipped w/ a very
> > thrashed looking carb, looks, smells and feels like a Holley, tag #'s
> > C4AF then a R and below that, A3LC.

Something I meant to mention earlier, is that on my intake of the same
casting number there are soft plugs in the front where the oil filler,
and in the back where the road draft tube used to be on the old stuff.
Look them over to be sure they won't leak oil. The back one would be
tough to change in-chassis.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:32:08 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M tune up info was need it soon

Nate,

I felt like I was copying a book. Forgive any minor typos, I'm old and blind
(really in one eye).

First there is a little chart whose contents are:

Ignition Timing: 4 degrees BTC in Nuetral
Timing RPM: 500 in Nuetral
Choke Setting: INDEX (?I have no idea what this means)
Fast Idle +-100 rpm: HIGH CAM, 2000 in Nuetral, Kickdown: (this box is
blank)
Curb Idle +- 50 rpm: with Ac, 550; w/o Ac 550 in nuetral
TSP off: (this box is also blank.

(Park works as well as Nuetral on an automatic tranny.)

Other items:Spark plug is ASF-42 gapped at .042-.046
Maintenance schedule B
Build date 07/79

The engine is certified both Federal and California.

Tune up notes:

Set parking brake and block wheels. Disconnect automatic brake release and
sensor connector from dual ignition module if so equipped. Make all
adjustments with engine at normal operating temperature, AC and headlights
off, air cleaner installed. For M/T disconnect and plug (D/P) thermactor air
bypass vacuum hoses. For A/T, D/P the thermactor air bypass valvevacuum hose
and connect a vacuum hose from manifold vacuum to the bypass valve (AIR
BPV).

Adjust ignition timing and timing rpm to spec with vacuum hoses disconnected
and plugged at the distributor. Adjust timing rpm with the long screw on the
soleniod dashpot bracket if so eqipped.

Fast idle: Adjust rpm to spec with transmission in N (M/T) or Park (A/T),
fast idle cam in specified position. DP EGR valve at A, DP purge valve at B.

Curb idle: Adjust curb idle to spec with all hoses connected except bypass
valve. If equipped with solenoid daashpot, de energize, collapse, turn AC
off. Adjust using the long screw on the dashpot solenoid bracket.

The idle mixture is preset at the factory and can not be adjusted.

That is what the sticker says. On a side note, you can break off the
castings over the idle mixture screws on the bottom front of the carb and
adjust the idle mix. The carb needs to be off the truck for this.

- -- John
jlagrone

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Need bed in NJ

Does anybody have a bed for sale...DIRT CHEAP in New Jersey? My friend needs
a bed for his 1975 F-250 4x4. He does not care what type of condition it is
in, as it will be used to haul junk. A bed from any 1973-1979 F-series will
work. I know some years had different bolt patterns, but that does not
matter as we will be making a "dump" frame to mount it to. I hope someone
can help!!! Thanks Alot!! Wayne
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:56:51 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts

At 10:38 AM 25/05/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>Anyone have any experience replacing body mounts? The front ones are
>>rusted through and the back ones have no bolts (and are rusty).
>
>I am in the cab mount quandry myself. I have bought after-market cab
>mounts, (the large piece of sheet metal which entombs the whole mess) but I
>do not want to use them. It just seems like a bad idea. I am looking for a
>used set that I can dress to the original flange and weld them to my
>original flange. I'll keep you posted.
>

Get the original cab mounts (same style, two-piece, same metal) from Dennis
Carpenter. There's no reason to buy those useless pieces of 20-gauge crap
they sell you at the parts store (made in Taiwan you know). I know cause I
used em and they broke (quite literally broke thru!) in three short weeks.
Then I had to go to all the trouble of ripping them off again.

marko

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:24:19 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More radiator notes

Danger wrote:
>You'll probably be very happy with a 4 core
>radiator from GDI
>
> I've been using a "43 6002" (which replaces
>43 3433) 4 core "Ready-Rad HeatBuster" from
>GDI (Go/Dan Industries) in my 69 F250 for the
>last year, and I've just bought a second one
>($308.40 with tax) for my other 69 F250.

John LG wrote:
>I also bought the four core radiator from
>GoDan Industries. It was well worth the money
>IMHO. It is made in Mexico.

Yo Danger, John, et al:

Thanks, guys. You made me feel a little better about my decision, so far. I
was concerned last night when I went to pick up the thing. On the outside of
the box on mine, it says "Made in Philipines," which was not particularly
confidence-inspiring. I pulled it out and everything looks ok. All the
dimensions match the OEM unit.

Upon closer examination, a couple of things bothered me. First, I didn't ask
for the auto trans radiator, but mine has the tranny cooler in it. Come to
think of it, when I was ordering the thing, along w/ the usual questions like
what size engine, whether my truck has AC or not, etc, and the stupid questions
like 2wd or 4wd, the parts chimp never asked if I had an auto tranny or not. I
think I'll keep it, though, since I may someday switch it to another truck w/ an
automatic.

The other thing that bothered me a little more was the cheesy nylon/plastic
drain plug thing. I think I'd prefer the more traditional rotating-tube
petcock. When I looked at my OEM unit, the outer nut/boss appeared to be brazed
right into the tank. I talked to a guy at the local NAPA, and he says he has
metal radiator drain petcocks for $1.50.

Otherwise, I'm feeling like I got a pretty good deal on it. I paid $230 plus
tax. Part number for mine was 43-6007.

Thanks again.

Dave R (M-block devotee)

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:44:34 CDT
From: "PitStop Performance"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100

Hello,

Anyone know of any parts sources for a 1971 F-100?

Thanks.

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:50:26 -0500
From: "Nate Doelling"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Serial Number

Ben, the serial/warranty number is in your VIN. It is the last 2 letters and
the last 4 numbers, ie. the last 6 characters! Also, some trucks still have
a tag plate on the firewall behind the carb. that should have the same
serial number. Hope this helps.

Nate

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list

ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Benjamin Lange
> Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 8:41 AM
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Serial Number
>
>
> I was just at my local auto parts store trying to get a new right rear
> emergency brake cable for a 77 F250 4x4. The guy at the counter tells me
> he needs to know what serial number the truck is to get the correct one.
> My first thought was it is part of the VIN but he told me no, its on a
> seperate tag. I know I can measure the length of the old cable to order
> the correct one but I'm still curious, does anyone know where I can find
> this
> alleged serial number. Thanks in advance.
>
> Ben
>
>
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:49:44 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100

PitStop Performance wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Anyone know of any parts sources for a 1971 F-100?
>
> Thanks.

Try www.macsautoparts.com
If you request it, they'll send a big 100 page catalogue for free.
Covers 1948-1972 Ford trucks.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:12:11 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More radiator notes

>Upon closer examination, a couple of things bothered me. First, I didn't ask
>for the auto trans radiator, but mine has the tranny cooler in it.

This is becoming more common with the aftermarket radiators ... when I was
a "parts chimp" as you put it, I noticed they were just coming with plugs
in them unless you said automatic at which point they might have thrown in
a bag of fittings if you were lucky ... but I think its safe to say that
most of the radiators we sold were equipped for an auto whether they were
ordered that way or not.

>
>The other thing that bothered me a little more was the cheesy nylon/plastic
>drain plug thing. I think I'd prefer the more traditional rotating-tube
>petcock. When I looked at my OEM unit, the outer nut/boss appeared to be
>brazed
>right into the tank. I talked to a guy at the local NAPA, and he says he has
>metal radiator drain petcocks for $1.50.
>
If they are the right size...the radiator I just put in my truck has that
nylon/plastic drain plug thingy too, and my stock petcock won't scew in
place of it...the next size smaller is way smaller than the hole in the
radiator too, so I am just leaving it for now. I found that if you cut the
top and bottom off of a 2L bottle and then slit the side, you can use it to
direct the anti-freeze pretty well ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:22:23 -0700
From: Don or Bub
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100

vintage parts 411. i own a 2 f-100. let me know will ya

bub

PitStop Performance wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Anyone know of any parts sources for a 1971 F-100?
>
> Thanks.
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:57:51 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...

Does anyone remember the thread a while back about rugged light bulbs for
trouble lights ? There was one that a few of you recommended as being very
durable, but they were like $12 a piece ... with Dad's b-day and father's
day comin up, I'd better start thinkin of stuff to get him and this was one
of the things that came to mind ... unfortunately I couldn't find the
message that I thought I saved with the info in it ...

Anyone remember or have this info ?

Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:02:10 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble lights ...

>Does anyone remember the thread a while back about rugged light bulbs for
>trouble lights ? There was one that a few of you recommended as being very
>durable, but they were like $12 a piece ... with Dad's b-day and father's
>day comin up, I'd better start thinkin of stuff to get him and this was one
>of the things that came to mind ... unfortunately I couldn't find the
>message that I thought I saved with the info in it ...
>
>Anyone remember or have this info ?
>
I found it, if anyone needs it for father's day ideas let me know and I'll
forward it on ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:20:44 -0500
From: "Hicks, Adam"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - What do you think? '77 F-150 I need to sell...

Hey guys, I want you to be the first to take a look at my favorite truck,
that I have to sell. I went out and bought a new 4-wheeler for our land,
and my wife decided I have tooo many toys. I drive this one the least
(although I absolutely LOVE it) so it has to go. It's a 77 F-150 with a 460
/ C6 / 9" rear end with quite a bit of new stuffs... I threw together a
quick web page with pictures and specs:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.luedtech.com/ford

I haven't placed the truck in the paper or even put a sign on it yet. I'd
like to sell it to a fellow FTE if possible... I think I'm asking a very
fair price.

Sadly,
Adam

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:58:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:holley carb loading up

You said that you load up at idle sometimes. My
question toyou is - Does it load up after you have
been running at high RPM's for a period? If so it may
be due to to much fuel pump pressure overpowering the
inlet valve. Your mixture will be rich enough to foul
the plugs and they will not fire properly at idle
until you clear them by revving to 1500 or so.. The
solution is a fuel pressure regulator or an electric
fuel pump. Mechanical pumps can cause this problem and
there isn't much control on aftermarket and rebuilt
pumps. Dan Lee
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:50:52 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Adjusting valves

Well.....Dang it! Someone mentioned adjusting so I assumed he had a 65 390
hypo or something like that, Sheeeeeesh! In any case everything I said
holds true except if they are hydraulic then adjusting may not be an issue
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Gary writes: >>Even if you put the lifters and pushrods back
> in the same holes,
> when you
> retorque the rocker assy to the head the clearances will
> change enough to
>
> Isn't he talking about an FE with Hydraulics (non-adjustables)????
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:44:42 -0700
From: jefro

netscape.com (Jeffrey Osier-Mixon)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts

> Get the original cab mounts (same style, two-piece, same metal) from Dennis
> Carpenter.

Excellent advice. Anyone happen to have the Carpenter catalog handy? They
want to take 3-4 weeks to send me one. All I was told was I needed front and
rear "body" mounts.. don't know if they mean cab or cab+bed, or what's the
difference. I haven't been under myself to look, but I will this afternoon.

> Seems to me that the most important parts of an old truck are the brakes
> and all the components which keep you attached to the brakes.

I'm going to have this engraved on my dashboard.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:14:24 -0400
From: pdesanto

Cinergy.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 bellhousings ?

> Jeff, Tony, just thought I'd pass on ,that the C-6 the bellhousing
> is not removable. To change engine families, will require a transmission
> case change or a complete trans swap. The C-6 is available for the small
> block pattern though.
>
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:27:56 EDT
From: WEDIVE247

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Problem with new master cylinder?

When I put power & disc.brakes all the way around on my 64 2wd, I went thru
"3" masters before I found one that worked ( from the parts store new ). So
it does happen........That new can be no good........... Keep
trying................
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:39:20 EDT
From: WEDIVE247

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100

Autokrafters on line..........
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:41:12 EDT
From: WEDIVE247

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Source for 1971 F-100

Macsauto parts are expensive & limited .
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:04:20 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - it wont let go of my M-block !!!

Ok ... I have a 351M with a bad DuraSpark II,
distributor in it, and I went to change it today ...
no luck, as it won't come out !?!?!

I removed the usual little 1/2" bolt and hold
down wedge, but the dirty lil bugger still holds
on to that block like there's no tomorrow.
Is there something else other than the usual
distributor hold-down bolt'n'wedge similar to
that which is found on W-blocks ?

No point in tellin me to just change the individual
piece that is bad, as in the process of pulling on
it to get it out, I busted the whole works all to
crap, and so now my original plan of changing out
the whole unit is a must :-P

Any suggestions ? I've tried the standard pry it
with a screwdriver, BIG screwdriver, little pry bar,
wrecking bar, and little pry bar with a big pipe on it.
The hold-down that I could find is out and lying loose
on the intake manifold, so I know thats not what
wants to keep it in there ... what else can there be ?

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:46:15 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Project

Larger volume means lower velocity which also means......Higher pressure not
lower :-) Pressure in the intake runners would be constant untill it opened
up into the ports where the velocity would fall off and pressure would go
UP. Small into big is always better if there has to be a difference
somewhere. What you get with larger intake is called reversion which is the
curling back of the outer layer of the stream when it hits the cylinder head
surface. This interrupts the flow from the carb causing fuel to drop out of
suspension and causes lean and rich mixtures in various cylinders, unevenly
distributing the charges. When this condition is serious you can actually
see the fuel mist standing off the top of the carb when the air cleaner is
removed. If it is mild you will still have trouble tuning the engine due to
poor distribution.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Seems to me that if you had smaller intake runners, then you'd have a
> smaller volume into a larger volume right ? So that should induce a
> pressure drop, which I wouldn't think you'd really want if
> you were trying
> to keep the velocities up ???
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:20:50 -0500
From: "Ted Stringfellow"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - catalytic converter

Thanks for the response...
- -----Original Message-----
From: James Oxley
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - catalytic converter

>Ted Stringfellow wrote:
>>
>> I have a 1978 F150 king cab with 351M engine that needs exhaust work and
has
>> no catalytic converter.
>>
>> What year did Ford start using catalytic converters on their trucks?
I've
>> heard that in 77-79 there was a mix of Fords that did or did not have
>> catalytic converters..
>>
>
> I think under 6000 lb GVWR had cats. I know my 78 Bronco is a factory
>non-catalyst. My 79 Bronco does have a cat.
>
> OX
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:37:36 -0500
From: Larry Brown
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - it wont let go of my M-block !!!

For some reason Ford Distributors have a tendency to stick in place, they
will turn but be almost impossable to remove. In the past I have used a
couple of hook shaped pry bar to work them out. This problem is so bad that
at one time Snap-On Tools offered a slide hammer attachment just for
removing stuck Dord distributors.

- -----Original Message-----
From:Serian [SMTP:serian

flashmail.com]
Sent:Tuesday, May 25, 1999 8:04 PM
To:61-79 FordList
Subject:FTE 61-79 - it wont let go of my M-block !!!

Ok ... I have a 351M with a bad DuraSpark II,
distributor in it, and I went to change it today ...
no luck, as it won't come out !?!?!

I removed the usual little 1/2" bolt and hold
down wedge, but the dirty lil bugger still holds
on to that block like there's no tomorrow.
Is there something else other than the usual
distributor hold-down bolt'n'wedge similar to
that which is found on W-blocks ?

No point in tellin me to just change the individual
piece that is bad, as in the process of pulling on
it to get it out, I busted the whole works all to
crap, and so now my original plan of changing out
the whole unit is a must :-P

Any suggestions ? I've tried the standard pry it
with a screwdriver, BIG screwdriver, little pry bar,....

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