61-79-list-digest Wednesday, January 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 017



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - I HATE my taillights...
FTE 61-79 - Clare otherwise known as Popeye
FTE 61-79 - Type F, Dexron, ATF
Re: FTE 61-79 - dual battery
Re: FTE 61-79 - Burnt main wiring harness

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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:56:40 -0800
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I HATE my taillights...

I'd trace the taillight wire back to a connecter at or near the
firewall and disconnect it there. If the lights are still on, you've
got some sort of short that you'll need to track down. Somewhere
there's an electrical feed getting to that circuit after the split
that goes forward to the parking lights or else those would be on
also.

Hope this helps.

Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
71 F100
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:55:57 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clare otherwise known as Popeye

Lissen Popeye, we ain't all able as you....:-)

I've done it too a few times, but I sure didn't like it and I'm 5'11 and
210.(of course my belly gets in the way too, kinda like gettin' stranded
on a beach ball) I'm not permanantly puckerin' my plumbing over it, I'm
using a hoist... :-)

> Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:42:24 -0500 (EST)
> From: CLARE WATERMAN
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 2v -4v swap
>
> c'mon guys...I'm 5'4" and 115 lbs and i did the swap myself on my
> f250/360 with no pulleys, hoists, or helpers...it's not muchmore than
> 80-90 lbs or so. put a foot on either frame rail, and lift! ;-)
>
>
>
> although it is the truth, dont get bent- i just
> mean a little friendly ribbing......
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 01:13:29 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Type F, Dexron, ATF

The way they used to classify automatic transmission fluid was Type F,
Dexron and ATF. Type F was for Fords(my Contour has to have Type F for
the power steering) Dexron was for everything else, and ATF (an
all-purpose generic classification for as you said automatic
transmission fluid) that was supposed to work in both. I haven't always
found that to be the case, though and have tried to stick with the right
fluid classification for the vehicle.

As for the '68 rebuild, I think the fluid properties are dictated by the
friction materials in the clutches and the hydraulic specifications of
the servos and valving . Modern materials (if they are different from
the originals) could possibly use another type of fluid, but that would
definitely have to be specified by the builder.

> ATF = Type F, ATF stands for Automatic Transmission Fluid.
>
> Dexron/Mercon III is the other kind, I believe for 77 and up.
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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:20:25 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dual battery

bruce wrote:
>
> I noticed a post about someone having a dual battery set-up.
> Do you need two alternators if you do this?

To which Don pointed out:
> Here is a site
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.whidbey.net/locktup/2bat.html
> It's in a toyoda but it is the simplest set up that I have seen that
> isolates one battery from another.

And, added:
>
> Hi Bruce,
> I have a big Die-Hard primary (starter) batt. and a monster
> Delco deep cycle marine batt. that runs the winch and aux. artificial
> daylight.
> You wire the 2nd battery the same way you would 'jump' a battery,
> + to +, - to -. It's a good idea to isolate the 2nd battery,
> especially for winch applications. I do this with a heavy duty
> solenoid mounted right beside the starter solenoid. I ran the
> switch for the solenoid inside the cab. You can also purchase
> a 'battery isolator' that automates the charging of the aux. batt.

Well, that about covers the easy ways to do it. The best (IMHO) way
is with a battery isolator, costing $20 and up. This is a pair of
back-to-back diodes which will provide automatic isolation and charging
of your two (or three) batteries.

What's wrong with connecting two batteries directly? This works well
for jump starting, but have you ever noticed on a REALLY dead battery
that jump starting doesn't work well? I usually connect the cables and
run my engine for 4-5 minutes before even attempting a start. When you
connect two batteries together, the good battery immediately starts
charging the dead one, sucking off the current that you need to start
the dead auto.

Relays? Well, an automatic relay seup is OK, but they are still relays
which can stick closed, or fail to close. Or, if manually selected,
rely on me or you to do the right thing. We can forget:-), and as
Mr. Murphy predicted, we will forget at the worst time and do the
most amount of damage.

I've had a diode isolator in my truck for 12 years. I use a second
battery for my camper, my kids used to like a light on all night. My
wife (or me) would do dishes after dark, using the lights. I
would forget to switch the refrigerator over to propane after stopping
for the night. In the morning, my second battery would be dead, but
we could still start, without switching or touching anything. I did,
however, need to replace my second battery more often due to the
abuse.

The problem with my truck (70 F250) was the installation. It's not
real clear how to install these things, mine came with the truck but
wasn't connected properly. You need to open the harness going to the
alternator, and run a new wire from the BAT terminal up to the common
terminal on the isolator. Connect the old BAT wire directly to an
isolated terminal on the diodes, this wire must be complete with the
2 or 3 wires (including the infamous ammeter shunt) which are
connected together. Separating these and running them elswhere will
defeat the purpose of the isolator. Next, run a new wire from the
second (and/or third) isolated terminal to your second (and/or third)
battery. Done. Run your winch, camper, trailer, power tools etc off
the second battery, and you'll always have a nice fresh battery to
start with. Unless, of course, you leave your headlights on and play
with your winch all night :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California


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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:13:31 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Burnt main wiring harness

Bill wrote:
> Mark wrote:
> >There were these purple wire loops in there that had
> >printed on them "RESISTOR - DO NOT CUT OR SPLICE". I
> >thought it was neat that Ford would bother to have them
> >labeled like that.
> >
> These were probably the "Fuseable links" where they are designed to
> burn out and protect the rest of the circuit in the event of a short.
> Cutting and splicing these could lead to a fire if you short things
> out some how ...
>

Nope. The purple resistor wire in the harness is the ignition ballast
resistor. Fusible links, as Bill properly described, are usually
found near the starter solenoid / alternator area. They are fairly
high current fuses, and are made of wire that is a smaller gauge
than the remainder of the circuit they are ment to protect. I have
seen them in stores, possibly listed by NAPA or in the 'Help'
(Motormite) section.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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End of 61-79-list-digest V3 #17
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