61-79-list-digest Wednesday, May 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 168



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - 351W Saga
FTE 61-79 - ABS rave, Dana 60 swap
FTE 61-79 - 351W Saga At An End
RE: FTE 61-79 - 125 mph blast today
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator
RE: FTE 61-79 - 351W Saga At An End
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351W Saga At An End
FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator, Ooooops!
FTE 61-79 - 300-I-6 to 400M Radiator swap page
FTE 61-79 - Hear the truck on my webpage
FTE 61-79 - Valve body swap - done!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Hear the truck on my webpage
FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring
FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual
FTE 61-79 - Tony's coolant hoses
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring
FTE 61-79 - lost title
Re: FTE 61-79 - was:Alternator wiring>
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tony's coolant hoses
FTE 61-79 - ABS Brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - was:Alternator wiring>
Re: FTE 61-79 - Three on Tree worn?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring
Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring
RE: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring
FTE 61-79 - Column/Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,Gary
FTE 61-79 - FE Balance, Warning: long post
RE: FTE 61-79 - ABS Brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - ABS Brakes
RE: FTE 61-79 - Three on Tree worn?
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual?
FTE 61-79 - clean up
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Balance, Warning: long post
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual?
FTE 61-79 - Re: too much carb.
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator
FTE 61-79 - new exhaust
Re: FTE 61-79 - was:Alternator wiring>
Re: FTE 61-79 - clean up
FTE 61-79 - FE adjustable rocker arms
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator
FTE 61-79 - Fill Tube Funnel Spring

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 05:47:07 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351W Saga

> >>The plugs are AC 43TS, the same heat range as a BF32
>
> It's a good thing Stu and Marko are gone to Pigeon Forge!!

I know, I know. My brother-in-law had a set in stock, not my idea!!!
He even cut off the little piece of baling wire wrapped around the frame
rail that reminds it it's a Ford. Real bad idea!
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 06:21:25 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ABS rave, Dana 60 swap

> Me? I'd rather take the $500-1K that ABS adds to the price of a new car and use
> that money to pay the tuition for a good driving class at Bondurant or someplace
> and learn how to drive the car and handle it under adverse conditions rather
> than rely on a computer w/ questionable logic to make those decisions for me.
> FTE content? My F250 allows me to decide when and how to use the brakes.

My '95 Contour doesn't have it, and I'm forevermore glad. Another
problem encountered with ABS is if you've been trained as I was (and my
wife also, being from South Dakota) on how to use the brakes on wet or
icy roads, you can confuse the system. Pumping the brakes on limited
traction surfaces is second nature to me. I've found slowing down, and
keeping my attention on what I'm doing, to work pretty well. Anti-lock
can save your life in very limited circumstances, but it isn't like
"God-Mode" in Doom. I've seen some negative changes in how people are
driving now that we have the ABS/Airbag/Nimble Steering(which in itslf
alone can be almost deadly in a front-wheel-drive car, ask me how I
know) mentality. The manufacturers run ads that imply that their safety
features can take the place of common sense. This is not only a load of
crap, but it kills people.

I'm considering swapping the whole rear housing in my '65 F250 4X4 for a
3.73 rear, just to see how I like the gear. Eventually, if I like it,
I'll gut it and build my original housing, and do the front. What years
of Dana 60's will bolt up to my spring perches, and use the same yoke?
I'd hate to go through alot of changing, because I plan to keep the
original housings on it, and swap the gears. Just a temporary test.
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 06:45:34 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351W Saga At An End

The 351W saga, for the moment, is at an end...

Thanks to everyone for their imput, on tuning and on the starter
problem. It had a bad ignition switch, but I'm not convinced that it
was all the problem. Thanks Pat, for your help. I'll keep you posted
on the starter.

I'm not quite satisfied with the tune either. It went to the customer
with 7d initial, spark ported advance, and 35d total. It's very close
to what I expected there. But the carb, I think is still way too lean.
It still pings very lightly under light accelleration(It's 9.7:1 and
running on 93 octane Amoco Premium). It has a "65" power valve, and the
original "612"("61") jet. I argued unsuccessfully for at least a "75"
power valve(so it would come in a little quicker) and a "66" jet. That
would still be plenty lean IMHO. To do it's best, I think an "85" and a
"69" would be called for. But hey, it's not my customer. I've given up
on telling the ornery little Viking anything.(I'm married to his sister,
so I really should know better)

Anyway, thanks to all.
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 07:50:13 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 125 mph blast today

I've seen clean but fixed up, that is to say, patched and painted over rust
on frame and other chassis parts but good sheet metal 78 4x4's go for over
$5k and here in Michigan any 78 4x4 truck will get $1500 no matter what
shape it's in although I did see one with very few body parts on it going
for $600 (73-77 not sure).

If they are in pristeen shape with no body rust but just faded paint she
could get better money for them. The 2x4 might bring $2500 and the 4x4
upwards of 5k but body rust or severe mechanical problems will knock that
down some. I have a friend who's husband just died of cancer who needs to
sell her van (handycapper with tommy lift) and it's worth $6k with perfect
body, many new suspension parts but old engine. I really would like to get
that for my wife's needs down the road because even at $6k it's a good deal
since I know how it was cared for (I did most of the work) but can't justify
the expense right now so I recommended that she stick to the price and get
what it's worth even though my demon side would like to jew her out of it.

Just remember she is your grand mother and some, if not all, the money she
gets will be sorely needed for her own living now.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> ok list i need help, if this was your grandmother what
> kind of offer would
> you make on both trucks? none of the other family members has
> an interest in
> ford trucks. they just think they're old trucks.
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:16:50 +0100
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator

I used a radiator out of a 88 van with 351W. I believe it was a 3 tube but
somewhat thinner than the super cool I have in the bronco for sure and it
did fine with a more or less stock 460 im my van and also in my 78 PU (smae
radiator and engine).

If you believe you can cool a 460 with an electric fan you should read the
bigbronco archives or even the ford truck archives first. The only setup
which I know of that is successfull with this engine is the dual fan and you
can set them up as either pushers or pullers so in your case a dual pusher
fan may be what you need.

As a last resort you could also use a cutoff wheel and cut the shaft short
on the pump but then when (notice I said "when") you realize the electric
fan won't work you won't be able to put the mechanical one back on :-(

It looks to me like you have mounted the engine too far forward and need to
re-evaluate the engine location. I custom mounted mine and used the
radiator shroud and fan location as the main fore/aft datum and relocated
everything else to suit. By doing this I have no problems with stock parts
fit anywhere in the engine bay. This location does put the engine valve
covers very close to the fire wall but who cares as long as everything is
accessable?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> question. The radiator that came in my truck with a huge,
> and i mean huge
> radiator, 4 core im guessing, havent looked, but its big, and
> that causes a
> problem. Im wanting to run a electric fan, but the water
> pump is so close
> to the radiator that i cant fit ANY electric fan I have found
> in-between.
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:52:17 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 351W Saga At An End

I've been told that a truck used for the street and not usually heavily
loaded doesn't need a dual power valve but I'm not convinced. Yes you can
get away without one but if you are looking for economy you need to fine
tune where the juice comes in at. All you need to do is watch your vac
gauge as you cruise down the road and you will notice that it takes very
little throttle to get below 10 and at moderate accelleration you will get
much lower than that, maybe 5. For best economy you want the engine to run
well no matter what it takes so when the vac dips to 10 you need more juice
but if you get a single valve set at 10 you will be way rich most of the
time so the dual helps by opening a smaller vent at 10 and larger one at 5
or 3 or what ever.

I see guys running double pumpers all the time too but for a truck the
vacuum secondaries are much better and the heavy spring is what you need
there too to prevent bogging.

Jets are another deal altogether. I've tried to lean out the cruise till it
misses and go up one size for best economy but often this is too lean for
best economy because the engine isn't making full power and requires more
throttle for the same speed etc.. Too lean on the main jets will also
affect the transition circuit or off idle tip in so there are limits.

Light throttle settings are separate issues from hard or full throttle
settings. Use the power valve and main jets for cruise and throw in the
accellerator pump nozzle for tip in and WOT and the secondary jets and
accellerator pump stroke and volume settings for full throttle. The air
cleaner base shape and type have a dramatic affect on this as well and
running without the cleaner for testing will mess up your tune when you put
it back on so always test with all air cleaner parts installed.

Don't over look the idle mixture settings either as they affect tip in as
well as having some effect on all other settings.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The 351W saga, for the moment, is at an end...
>
> It still pings very lightly under light accelleration(It's 9.7:1 and
> running on 93 octane Amoco Premium). It has a "65" power
> valve, and the
> original "612"("61") jet. I argued unsuccessfully for at least a "75"
> power valve(so it would come in a little quicker) and a "66"
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:03:29 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator

>If you believe you can cool a 460 with an electric fan you should read the
>bigbronco archives or even the ford truck archives first. The only setup
>which I know of that is successfull with this engine is the dual fan and you
>can set them up as either pushers or pullers so in your case a dual pusher
>fan may be what you need.
>

I think once you start looking for an electric fan that you will find they
are rated for horsepower as well as flow. I haven't found 1 yet that would
quite satisfy me in both flow and horse power for my 390, so I can't
imagine finding one for a 460. And with the clearance issues a pusher
setup is probably the way to go. Also setting them up to be
thermostatically controlled will add a couple bucks, but probably be worth
it if you live in a cold climate.

>As a last resort you could also use a cutoff wheel and cut the shaft short
>on the pump but then when (notice I said "when") you realize the electric
>fan won't work you won't be able to put the mechanical one back on :-(
>
Am I missing something about the way the pulley system works on these
motors ? Don't you need that shaft so that you can get the water pump
turning ? Maybe the 460 is laid out differently than all the other motors
I've seen. If its the fan spacer you're talking about, those are available
in any number of lengths, and aftermarket so you wouldn't have to ruin an
original. Also a lot of my water pumps have come with small studs to screw
in if you have a fan clutch, so if you need those I have a little baggie
floating around that I wont' be using ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:08:20 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual?

At 01:38 AM 5/18/99 , you wrote:
>Terry wrote...
>
>I have a manual steering column in my '65 F100 2wd 4sp manual. I also have a
>power steering column. Now for the question. Can I take the center shaft
>from the p/s one and put it in the manual column? Will they interchange?
>....................
>
>I don't think the manual steering shaft is the same length as the
>power steering shaft.

I think that's the point, he was doing a manual to power steering
conversion, so this is what he wanted ...


If I remember correctly, the easiest way to tell the
>shafts apart is to look at the flange thickness (power steering is thinner).
>
does that mean that they are the same except for where they go into the
steering box, or are you talking of a different flange ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:12:27 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351W Saga At An End

>I'm not quite satisfied with the tune either. It went to the customer
>with 7d initial, spark ported advance, and 35d total. It's very close
>"69" would be called for. But hey, it's not my customer. I've given up
>on telling the ornery little Viking anything.(I'm married to his sister,
>so I really should know better)
>
>Anyway, thanks to all.

As long as the customer's happy I guess huh ? Wish some places would
realize that the customer is the one they're here to serve sometimes...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:30:03 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring

I know I should've marked things better when I took the motor out of the
truck, but you know how it goes, you think you'll remember it, then it
takes longer than its supposed to and you forget ... anyway I hooked up the
alternator last night on my 390 and matched up the colors and the hold
downs and such, but I noticed there's nothing on the GND terminal ... seems
odd to me. Then I got to thinking, there's no ground anywhere on this ...
am I missing something ? The battery ground goes from the block to the (-)
on the battery right ? Is there supposed to be a grounding strap from the
motor to the body at some point ? I never took one or broke one off when I
pulled the 360 out, and now that the motor is all painted up I'm beginning
to wonder if its going to start at all if the grounds aren't set up right ...

Anyone point me in the right direction here ?


Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:34:31 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator, Ooooops!

Still suffering from jet lag I guess, of course the flange is required for
the pulleys....I was thinking of using the flux capacitor to run the pump
:-) You could get an electric pump but I don't think I would do that
myself.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Am I missing something about the way the pulley system works on these
> motors ? Don't you need that shaft so that you can get the water pump
> turning ?
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:48:57 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300-I-6 to 400M Radiator swap page

Hey Marino,

Now, we'll just wait until you decide to go ahead and actually put in the
V8......

Sorry, couldn't resist, kid....

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 07:32:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hear the truck on my webpage

I got a couple of .wav files of the truck up on my web page. It
is a 390/C6 with Sanderson Headers and a two 2.25" inlet/single
3" outlet Flowmaster muffler.

I recorded the sound of the truck driving by with a Hi-Fi stereo
video camera and made a stereo .wav file. I made several passes
and picked the best one. I have to admit, I think the truck
sounds better on the driver's side, the one without the tailpipe.

My neighbors must have thought I had lost my mind.

And those guys at Pigeon Forge think they are having all the fun.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 07:33:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Valve body swap - done!

I managed to perform the valve body swap this weekend and I want
to thank everyone for their inputs. You guys were right on the
money.

One thing I found out though. The filter assemblies are not the
same between 2WD and 4WD. The 4X4 pan also has a cavity in it
so the pickup is lower down in the fluid. That also means the
4X4s can't use that nice chrome pan from Ford Motorsport. It
also meant I had to go get some filter gaskets which you can't
buy without getting the whole filter kit so there went another
$20 for two kits.

The surprise is that both trucks shift nicely now. The 4X4 has
a quick, firm shift, but doesn't bang like it used to. The
Supercab, which now has the shift kit in it. Shifts quicker,
but also doesn't slam into gear. Maybe it has something to do
with the taller rearend gears?


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:50:52 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Hear the truck on my webpage

To get the best vantage on mine you need to put the mike in the cab.....:-)
Jumped in the other day like I always do but my foot went through the
floor.....:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> and picked the best one. I have to admit, I think the truck
> sounds better on the driver's side, the one without the tailpipe.
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:12:24 -0500
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring

>>I hooked up the
>alternator last night on my 390 and matched up the colors and the hold
>downs and such, but I noticed there's nothing on the GND terminal ... seems
>odd to me.

Perhaps the alternator grounds through its casing to the metal bracket to the engine block
to the battery?
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:29:43 PDT
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual

Jason wrote:

>I took a power steering shaft out of an auto column and put it
>in my
>manual steering, manual tranny column when I put in my power
>steering.
>It fit alright. I should have put in new bearings, though.



Does the shaft just pull out the bottom of the column once the wheel is
removed? I would prefer to do it this way, if it would be easier.

Thank you for your help, I appreciate it.

Marty Colman


_______________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:57:55 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tony's coolant hoses

Tony Marino said:
> I actually did something relatively on time for a change--- For those of
> you interested in the 300-I-6 to 400M Radiator swap-- I put a quick page
> together--
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony/radiator/


Thanks for the info, Tony. I always appreciate when someone takes the time
to show what they are up to. I have a few comments related to your hose
fixes.

I had to replace the hoses on my '66 Club Wagon's I6 240 recently, and the
molded hoses by Dayco are out of production. I used a flex hose for the
bottom, but I wanted a molded hose for the top. My parts store let me look
through their selection of hoses and I picked one with two sharp bends
(like the original). I cut the hose apart to get the right angles, and then
attached them together with a Mr. Gasket radiator filter, similar to what
you did with the piece of pipe, but mine's not hidden.

The billet filter is a nice piece and doesn't look too out of place on my
otherwise stock engine. So, far, it has really trapped a lot of debris,
even though I have flushed the coolant twice. Maybe it's not totally
necessary, but it is doing its job and enabled me to join the hoses.
Besides, everyone seems surprised to know that coolant filters exist, so
it's a conversation piece, too.

I've seen rods and customs use chrome plated drain pipe (from a plumbing
supply house) to join coolant hoses. If you cut the hoses cleanly, this is
an attractive solution for hose routing. One thing to consider about that
exhaust pipe you used in your lower hoses -- if it wasn't stainless it
might really rust out. I wouldn't want a rusted exhaust pipe in my coolant.
Something to think about anyway.

- -don

- ---
Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon
Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters


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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:19:04 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual

MARTY COLMAN wrote:
>
> Jason wrote:
>
> >I took a power steering shaft out of an auto column and put it
> >in my
> >manual steering, manual tranny column when I put in my power
> >steering.
> >It fit alright. I should have put in new bearings, though.
>
> Does the shaft just pull out the bottom of the column once the wheel is
> removed? I would prefer to do it this way, if it would be easier.
>
> Thank you for your help, I appreciate it.
>
> Marty Colman
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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It will if the column is out of the truck. Mine was in the truck and it
was tough-not enough room.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:16:40 -0700
From: "Terry Pendergrass"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual?


- --

On Mon, 17 May 1999 23:38:59 Danger wrote:
>Terry wrote...
>
>I have a manual steering column in my '65 F100 2wd 4sp manual. I also have a
>power steering column. Now for the question. Can I take the center shaft
>from the p/s one and put it in the manual column? Will they interchange?
>....................
>
>I don't think the manual steering shaft is the same length as the
>power steering shaft. If I remember correctly, the easiest way to tell the
>shafts apart is to look at the flange thickness (power steering is thinner).

I know that they are different lengths, but will the p/s one fit in the manual column? Will the bearings and stuff line up?


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:32:11 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring

William S Hart wrote:
>
> I know I should've marked things better when I took the motor out of the
> truck, but you know how it goes, you think you'll remember it, then it
> takes longer than its supposed to and you forget ... anyway I hooked up the
> alternator last night on my 390 and matched up the colors and the hold
> downs and such, but I noticed there's nothing on the GND terminal ... seems
> odd to me. Then I got to thinking, there's no ground anywhere on this ...
> am I missing something ? The battery ground goes from the block to the (-)
> on the battery right ? Is there supposed to be a grounding strap from the
> motor to the body at some point ? I never took one or broke one off when I
> pulled the 360 out, and now that the motor is all painted up I'm beginning
> to wonder if its going to start at all if the grounds aren't set up right ...
>
> Anyone point me in the right direction here ?
>
> Thanks,
> wish
> 73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> 96 Mustang GT
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
>
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Usually, there is a ground strap between the back of the manifold and
the firewall. It should start and run ok without it, but it'd be better
to have one to avoid any potential wiring problems.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:21:30 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - lost title

William,

I think you have to appear in person in the county where you want to
register the truck, or someone with a power of attorney from you can do it.
You will need to contact the tax assesor collector in El Paso for that
county. See if someone can contact the JAG office at Fort Bliss to give you
some advice. From what you describe, you have the paperwork you need. You
can register the truck and drive it while you are waiting on the title, you
just won't be able to sell it. The truck will have to be here in Texas
before you can start the process because you have to get it weighed on a
certified scale and of course it has to be insured. You might see if you can
get some sort of a decree from JAG there in Cuba that shows you as the
bonafide owner. The bill of sale may be adequate, but a court decree never
hurts. Sorry, but I don't think you can get anything done until you get to
Texas with the truck. I still think JAG at Ft. Bliss will be your best bet.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http//www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:24:08 -0500
From: "Corey Johnson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - was:Alternator wiring>

Do you happen to know what type of 4speed you have?
I am thinking of changing my 3 on the tree to a 4 on the floor...
What type of speeds do you get on the highway?

TIA

Corey Johnson

bkirking bcm.tmc.edu wrote:

> Bryan Kirking
> 66 Step Side
> 352 FE, 4 speed
> Houston, Texas
>
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:46:05 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tony's coolant hoses

Great Suggestions Don, thanks--

Yeah, the pipe I used was just aluminized pipe, but a couple of months ago
I drained and refilled the whole system by breaking apart that union (after
all, it's the lowest point) and the pipe wasn't rusted at all-- I was
surprised-- the heat and and the flowing antifreeze must keep it ok-- after
all-- would it rust more than the inside of your block would normally?

Thanks for the tips--

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

>The billet filter is a nice piece and doesn't look too out of place on my
>otherwise stock engine. So, far, it has really trapped a lot of debris,
>even though I have flushed the coolant twice. Maybe it's not totally
>necessary, but it is doing its job and enabled me to join the hoses.
>Besides, everyone seems surprised to know that coolant filters exist, so
>it's a conversation piece, too.

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:42:39 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ABS Brakes

Here's my two cents worth: My former Isuzu truck had RABS, and it worked
great. Module did have to be replaced under warranty, but the brakes never
failed, and never exhibited any of the problems mentioned in the various
posts. The truck always stopped great, and the rear end never spun around.
In 4WD, when the RABS is deactivated, I did manage to spin the truck in the
snow, so the ABS had to be doing something. This is the only reason RABS
is put on trucks, to keep the typically lightly loaded rear end from
spinning (My friends Dodge Ram 50 did this one time in the rain, and
believe me, you never want to be in a truck when this happens, almost
killed us.) So when the guy drove his daughter's F-150, the front end
pushing was actually the RABS keeping the back end from swinging around.


George

78 F-150 400, 4 on floor, 4x4

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:36:50 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - was:Alternator wiring>

At 11:24 AM 5/18/99 , you wrote:
>Do you happen to know what type of 4speed you have?
>I am thinking of changing my 3 on the tree to a 4 on the floor...
>What type of speeds do you get on the highway?
>
Generally the old 3 and 4 speeds have the same final drives, the only
difference comes when you start talking about over drives, otherwise the
C6's even all end up with a 1:1 gear ratio in top gear, so you'd really
just be gaining better gear spacing and possibly a lower first gear, it
won't change your final drive ratio, hence you'll have the same revs at the
same speeds on the highway in top gear ...




Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:53:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: brian michael logan
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Three on Tree worn?

Hey folks...

This is probably an easy one. My shifter for a three speed manual is
becomming sloppy. It won't stay in the Neutral position. And the third
position goes way further than it should.

I'm thinking it's in the column linkage. It's not the transmission... is
it? Can you guys give me some good tests to diagnose this so that I don't
have to replace the whole column? Is it just a little plastic part
somewhere?

It's more than a pain to drive the truck this way!

Stats: It's a 1968 300i6 SWB Styleside.
_____________________________________________________________________________
B r i a n M i c h a e l L o g a n


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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:03:38 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring

William S Hart wrote...

> I noticed there's nothing on the GND terminal ... seems
> odd to me.

I looked at my 69 F250 and found the GND terminal has a wire (black wire
with red stripe) that leads to the voltage regulator mounting bolt.

> Is there supposed to be a grounding strap from the
> motor to the body at some point ? I never took one or broke one off when
I
> pulled the 360 out.

There is usually a grounding strap from the firewall to the throttle
linkage mounting bracket on the engine.

While were on the subject of ground wires,... The steering column has a
ground wire that links the steering box shaft flange to the column shaft
flange (by rubber disc coupler) in order for the stock horn to work.


Danger
danger csolutions.net



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:47:28 EDT
From: Rollie H Hunt
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring

On Tue, 18 May 1999 08:30:03 -0500 William S Hart
writes:
I noticed there's nothing on the GND terminal ...
>seems
>odd to me. Then I got to thinking, there's no ground anywhere on this
>...
>am I missing something ? Is there supposed to be a grounding strap from

>the
>motor to the body at some point ?
First off , yes there is supposed to be a ground strap from the back of
the engine to the firewall ( body of the truck ) . As for the alternator
, I know the one I have on my truck has a black terminal which is not the
ground it is used for the ( electric ) automatic choke .
Hope this helps .
Rollie.

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:42:16 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Alternator wiring

If you don't have proper ground straps between the engine and chassis the
current from any device on one side of the system or the other will have to
flow through "any" wires it finds which can include delicate electronic or
electrical components......this means bad things for them so make sure you
have a good ground between the chassis and engine and solid, heavy ground
between the battery and engine so starter current will flow where it's
supposed to etc..

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Usually, there is a
> ground strap between the back of the manifold and
> the firewall. It should start and run ok without it, but it'd
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:53:50 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Column/Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,Gary

I would like to make the auto column look like my 4spd column. I've
been into a few columns, but not that far down. Can the collar be taken
off the manual column and put onto the auto column, so it would appear
original? Have any of you done this?

Yes I did it to my 76 F-250,also pulled the shift tube out of the
column.Not a major project .The only clue it is a auto column now is the
little ear at
the bottom of the column sticking out that used to have the linkage
hooked to it

Welcome back Pot Hole Jumping Gary
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:06:54 -0400
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Balance, Warning: long post

Hey, Folks,

I am in the process of building a 390 for my '68 F-250 Camper Special. I have Steve Christ's book, and it has been a lot of help for cross-referencing parts and general procedures. I am left with several questions about balance.

Steve Christ throws around the terms internal and external balance as well as the terms zero balance and Detroit balance.

The way I understand zero balance vs. Detroit balance is that with zero balance the crank, harmonic balancer, and flywheel are all individually balanced therefore the assembly will be balanced. (I suppose you can them assemble them and test the theory.) With Detroit balance, the harmonic balancer and flywheel are actually offset (have more mass on one side than the other). In a Detroit balanced engine, the flywheel, crank, and harmonic balancer must be balanced as an assembly.

I am less sure of the terms internal and external balance although I suspect that internal = zero balance and external = Detroit balance

The reason I need to get this all squared away is that I bought a '72 390 motor which came out of a truck with an automatic transmission (flexplate). I have an NP435 4 speed. Do I need to buy a flywheel and give it to the machinist to balance with the assembly (crank & harmonic balancer). Or can I just take the flywheel off the present engine (360) when I do the engine swap and bolt it up and drop the engine in?

Second question: How important is balancing an engine? The 390 will have new pistons (0.020 over) and all the old rods. Might I notice a problem if I don't pay to have the engine balanced? Will I notice a problem on the highway at speed? Will the engine feel like it doesn't want to rev? Just how does a balanced engine "feel" compared to a factory balance? I have a 3.50 rear BTW.

Third question: Recommendation on Cam? I am planning on putting on a 4 barrel and stock exhaust manifolds. I am not looking for high RPM performance particularly, but neither am I building a tractor. I want good pulling power and smooth highway cruising. Stock cam? RV cam?

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Doss Halsey
'68 F-250 Camper Special, Ranger Trim
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:19:33 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - ABS Brakes

I fully understand the concept, the problem is you have absolutely no feel
for what's going on and the system works "too" well so that you have less
braking than without it. I've always driven on the edge and been off the
road many times due to locking up the brakes but if I had a choice between
front locking up and rear I'll take the rear every time. The proportioning
valve has the effect of preventing the rear from locking first and that is
all you should need IMNSHO. As I said, if you can balance between the front
and rear as in 4 wheel ABS (theoretically at least) there is some merit but
when the rear has no clue what the front is doing and the driver has no clue
what the rear is doing you have a serious problem in determining how much
pressure to apply. In the case I stated I would have known immediately that
my tires were locked up because the rear end would have begun to come around
which would have been my cue to back off. As it was it didn't do anything
and I had no clue untill I did back off a tad but my rear brakes were not
doing their job or I would have been able to slow down more and never needed
to lock the front brakes. This is what I mean by "doing too good a job".

On snow and ice if the front locks first you lose your steering (let off the
gas in a skid on a front wheel drive car and see what I mean) but if the
rear locks first it drags behind you and tends to keep you striaght......if
you are going straight. If you apply brakes when turning you need to go
back to driver ed....even my Tennesee hillbilly mother (don't ever let her
hear you say that :-)) knew how that worked and she was my first instructor
on braking.....release the brake when traversing a bump (railroad track), do
not brake in a turn etc.. She learned on model A's, in the mountains. If
you need to brake "for" a turn, you brake "before" the turn while you are
still going straight in which case the ABS is useless unless it can be
engineered to work as "planned" which so far in my experience it never does.

The experts say under steer is safer for the average driver which I believe
is true as long as you don't carry it to extremes, which RABS tends to do
(or did in this case at least) IMNSHO :-) It really depends on the specific
application and execution of the software and hardware etc. whether is is
good or not I suppose so it looks to me like they need to do more homework
on this before they force it on the public.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> In 4WD, when the RABS is deactivated, I did manage to spin
> the truck in the
> snow, so the ABS had to be doing something. This is the only
> reason RABS
> is put on trucks, to keep the typically lightly loaded rear end from
> spinning
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:22:12 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ABS Brakes

>Here's my two cents worth: My former Isuzu truck had RABS, and it worked
>great and never exhibited any of the problems mentioned in the various
>posts.

Yeah, I think the problems I have stem from the fact that it is 4wheel ABS,
so when one locks up, none of them go on ...

I've always thought rear was a good idea for trucks ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:27:27 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Three on Tree worn?

The reason it doesn't stay in gear is probably due to the fact that it never
quite gets in gear due to slop in the shifter. The shift tube and end of
the shift lever will wear over time and the hole in the white metal collar
or shift housing gets elongated too untill it won't fully engage the
linkage. The shift collar is fairly cheap and still available last I heard.

There are several pivot and contact points in the system and when old they
all have some wear which adds up to way too much for proper operation. The
first place to look is the cast shift collar pin hole I would say. The next
most likely is the plastic bushings in the linkage and worn dogs on the
shift tube.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> This is probably an easy one. My shifter for a three speed manual is
> becomming sloppy. It won't stay in the Neutral position.
> And the third
> position goes way further than it should.
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:28:35 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual?

>
> I know that they are different lengths,
> but will the p/s one fit in the manual column?
> Will the bearings and stuff line up?
>

I've done some work on the steering columns in both of my 69 F250's (cab
corner failure) and yes, the p/s shaft will fit into the manual column. A
c-clamp is used to position the lower bearings on the shaft which could be
adjusted if needed (probably not needed). The shaft can be removed out the
bottom of the column housing once the steering wheel has been removed.


Danger
danger csolutions.net




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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:27:03 -0400
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - clean up

>Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 20:51:06 -0700 (PDT)
>From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - CLeaning up after your truck...

>So, does anybody out there have any tips on cleaning up after the
>mess I make while working on my truck? I'm a dead man if I don't get that
>garage clean!! Any ideas? Thanks.

I just tried a degreaser made by Castrol. It comes in gallons and is purple colored. I love this stuff! It must have lye in it as it takes the grease and makes it soluble in water. Works great! Spray some on the garage floor and hose it off.

Doss Halsey
'68 F-250 Camper Special

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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:41:57 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Balance, Warning: long post

>I am less sure of the terms internal and external balance although I suspect
>that internal = zero balance and external = Detroit balance
>
The externally balanced engines will have weights on the harmonic balancer
and/or the flywheel, 428's for intstance are externally balanced. The 390
I just put in my truck wouldn't totally internally balance, so he had to do
a little with the harmonic and the flywheel to get mine to totally come in ...

>The reason I need to get this all squared away is that I bought a '72 390
>motor which came out of a truck with an automatic transmission (flexplate).
>I have an NP435 4 speed. Do I need to buy a flywheel and give it to the
>machinist to balance with the assembly (crank & harmonic balancer). Or can I
>just take the flywheel off the present engine (360) when I do the engine
>swap and bolt it up and drop the engine in?
>

You should probably have it balanced just to be sure, especially if you're
having the engine balanced ... they will bolt up, so if the flywheel is
still in good shape you can still use it ...

>Second question: How important is balancing an engine? The 390 will have new
>pistons (0.020 over) and all the old rods. Might I notice a problem if I
>don't pay to have the engine balanced? Will I notice a problem on the
>highway at speed? Will the engine feel like it doesn't want to rev? Just how
>does a balanced engine "feel" compared to a factory balance? I have a 3.50
>rear BTW.
>
A new factory balanced motor will feel pretty good, but once you rebuild
and use a balanced motor you will never want to go back. My dad didn't
believe in balancing til I got a 5.0 that was balanced, he balanced the
next one he did, and made sure I got mine done when I was building the 390
... And my g.f.'s dad says its just cheap insurance, if its balanced it'll
last a lot longer...


>Third question: Recommendation on Cam? I am planning on putting on a 4
>barrel and stock exhaust manifolds. I am not looking for high RPM
>performance particularly, but neither am I building a tractor. I want good
>pulling power and smooth highway cruising. Stock cam? RV cam?
>

Hopefully by the end of the week I can tell you how things worked out with
my cam, but if you want to check out
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/rebuild.html

I think a CJ cam is normally a pretty good one to use for "normal" use
trucks, and from what I've heard the RV cams are about the same as the
Cobra Jet cams ... I trusted my machinist on this one, if you have a good
machinist, see what he recommends ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:45:12 -0700
From: "Terry Pendergrass"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto column to manual?

Thanks for the info. Now I can do that P/S Swap.

Terry
- --

On Tue, 18 May 1999 12:28:35 Danger wrote:
>>
>> I know that they are different lengths,
>> but will the p/s one fit in the manual column?
>> Will the bearings and stuff line up?
>>
>
>I've done some work on the steering columns in both of my 69 F250's (cab
>corner failure) and yes, the p/s shaft will fit into the manual column. A
>c-clamp is used to position the lower bearings on the shaft which could be
>adjusted if needed (probably not needed). The shaft can be removed out the
>bottom of the column housing once the steering wheel has been removed.
>
>
>Danger
>danger csolutions.net
>
>
>
>
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>


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:06:30 -0700
From: Neil Johnson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: too much carb.

Wish,

To answer your question about if I needed that much carb, I did some
searching on it. I talked with Holley and I gave them the motor specs and
they said 750 and nothing lower. I broke in the motor with the old carb
that was on it before I tore it down. It was a Holley 600. It ran good with
the 600, but near as good as with the 750. Very noticable difference. But
they not be in your case..depending on your motor.. I run the 93 octane, no
pinging or nothing. I will never know about using the lower grade of gas.


Corbin
72 F-100 390 Electric Red

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:04:01 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 radiator

>It looks to me like you have mounted the engine too far forward and need to
>re-evaluate the engine location. I custom mounted mine and used the
>radiator shroud and fan location as the main fore/aft datum and relocated
>everything else to suit. By doing this I have no problems with stock parts
>fit anywhere in the engine bay. This location does put the engine valve
>covers very close to the fire wall but who cares as long as everything is
>accessable?


how in the world would i do this?? I dont exactly want to move the
transfer case and tranny back! I bought it like this and it had a 400, so...

cannanadle
'78 F250 4x4, 460


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:07:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: loustrk ix.netcom.com (louis sirio)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - new exhaust

I'm about to install a new exhaust in my
1978 F-250 and I'm looking for some info
on stacks. They come up 0n the side or behind
your cab. I've seen alot of trucks with this setup
but I don't think any of the standard exhaust people
make them. any info would help.

thanks again
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:53:50 EDT
From: Bluebomr1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - was:Alternator wiring>

corey-
on my '64 ford 4x4 i dont have a ground wire running from my alt to somethin
i only have a feild and a bat wire and i havent had any problems. hope ive
been some help.


Bryon
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 00:43:01 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - clean up

i sell that stuff, ours is stronger than the castrol, we call ours purple
magic, it works excellent on tires, chassis, engines and just about anything
else you want to clean.
it should do the trick on grease, but the stain will be there for a while.

jeff grant
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 00:53:22 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE adjustable rocker arms

i have a friend looking for a set of adjustable rockers for a FE, anyone have
....


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