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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, May 12 1999 Volume 03 : Number 160 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo  ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:cleaning up after your truck FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question FTE 61-79 - Re: F250 Exhaust FTE 61-79 - Door Skins Re: FTE 61-79 - carb..Size???Whats it from??? FTE 61-79 - Overheating I-6 FTE 61-79 - 410 FTE 61-79 - Let's all do a 410 swap FTE 61-79 - 351M knock FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing FTE 61-79 - F250 exhaust FTE 61-79 - 360 flywheel FTE 61-79 - RE: 410 mystery FTE 61-79 - Balance FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M knock Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps FTE 61-79 - Re: F250 Exhaust Re: FTE 61-79 - Let's all do a 410 swap FTE 61-79 - Re: 410 Mercury FTE 61-79 - '78 F250 internal hubs Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID FTE 61-79 - '75 Club Cab FTE 61-79 - Re: Steering Adjust Re: FTE 61-79 - '78 F250 internal hubs Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons Re: FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing FTE 61-79 - A big Ford Truck trip FTE 61-79 - C6 valve body replacement Re: FTE 61-79 - A big Ford Truck trip FTE 61-79 - 460 distrubutor, 7mm, 8mm Re: FTE 61-79 - 410 Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 distrubutor, 7mm, 8mm Re: FTE 61-79 - Heads FTE 61-79 - RE:...makings of a 428 FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 03:07:04 -0700 From: Tim Neasham Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:cleaning up after your truck Sorry, I didn't catch the original post, just the reply. (Jeez, I hate having 4 different computers with 3 different e-mailers.) Anyways.. If you need to eat the oil off, and don't mind a little work, go to a pool supply store, and get some muratic acid. They use it for adjusting the acidity (duh!) of pools. The stuff works GREAT for "bleaching" the concrete regardless of whats been spilled. Just have plenty of water handy to dilute it and rinse it off when you're done. I took a couple of gallons of this stuff to my dad's garage floor for father's day last year (Surprise!!!) and boy was he pissed. He said he'd worked for 15 years to get the floor all the same color (Oil) and there I go getting it all white on him. He made me help him paint the floor with some 2 epoxy paint. Now the oil can sit for days and wipes right off. Oh yeah, (FTE Content) I was trying to clean up some nasty oil spills that I created with my '74 F-250. :) At 19:45 5/10/99 , you wrote: >Daniel, >you wrote: "I'm a dead man if I don't get that >garage cleaned !!" >Wow, I didn't realise that a dirty garage could >be fatal! Guess I've been living on borrowed >time. But if I have to clean up after my Ford >truck (FTE content) I find that kitty litter and time >work well. In a hurry? I bought some stuff at >Costco called Oil Eater that works well too. >On the off chance that you have any, carbon >tetrachloride is the finest spot remover ever >but has been banned due to its carcinogenic >nature. Too bad, that stuff was great! >Your other options would be to stain all of the >floor (my choice) or, if it's really bad, paint. >It just sort of depends on whether your concerns >stem from SWMBO or a landlord. Good luck! > >Tim in Anchorage >'67 F-100 Tim Neasham Benton City, Washington '74 & '76 F-250 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:00:12 -0500 From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger) Subject: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question We're working on a warmed up 351W we built for an '87 F150. It has K-B pistons w/ 9.7 to 1 compression, a Speed Pro 214 .050 .480 lift cam. Everything else is stock heavy-duty emissions 351W. It has the Holley 4bbl on it for the last year. As I expected(it needed more cam!), it pings badly on 89 octane gas with 7 degrees initial. It won't tolerate manifold vacuam advance at all. I'm trying to get my ornery brother in law to listen to me on how to tune it. He wants to get it to run on 89, I say no way. I set up my 69 390 w 9.5 to 1 at 6 degrees initial, spark ported vacuam, and ran 93 octane fuel. It would roast the tires. But it would still ping a little, under very light accelleration. If you gave it enough throttle it wouldn't. I say set up the 351 like that 390. He wants to disable the vacuam advance entirely and run 15 degrees initial. I bet him a 12 pack that you wouldn't get it to start under soak. That backed the stingy SOB off a little, but anyway, any advice? Another problem surfaced when we came back from a test drive. The engine died a block from the shop, and the starter dragged real bad. Upon restart, it wouldn't idle, and the starter still drags. Maybe a coincedence, trashy gas, causing the bad idle, and a sick starter? I don't know. We haven't hooked up and tried to track it down yet. What I was wondering though, doesn't the Duraspark box have a retard feature that comes in during cranking? I'm not as versed in this system as I should be, but has anyone ever encountered an ignition prioblem like this that was traceable to the ignition box, and if so, how can I hook up and diagnose it? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 06:26:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Dave Welsh Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID Hi all! I recently became the proud owner of a 78 Bronco. The previous owner did an engine rebuild/swap a couple of years ago. The original engine was a 351M. He says the new engine is a 400. The valve covers still have a 351 tag on them. Is there any way through block numbers to verify what engine I have? TIA Dave Welsh Janesville, Need that 4X4 in winter, Wisconsin _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:37:23 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID Dave Welsh wrote: > > Hi all! I recently became the proud owner of a 78 > Bronco. The previous owner did an engine rebuild/swap > a couple of years ago. The original engine was a 351M. > He says the new engine is a 400. The valve covers > still have a 351 tag on them. Is there any way through > block numbers to verify what engine I have? > No, blocks are the same. You can pull out a plug and check the stroke with a bent piece of stiff wire. 3.5" for 351M and 4" for 400. It's not that easy to get an accurate measurement though. OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:43:15 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question >As I expected(it needed more cam!), it pings badly on 89 octane gas with >7 degrees initial. Ouch, that's kinda scarey. Dunno what my compression ratio is going to be, but hopefully I won't have that problem ... really don't want it in my 390. >It won't tolerate manifold vacuam advance at all. Do you have manifold vacuum with that cam ? or is it so lumpy that it throws the advance around ? >I'm trying to get my ornery brother in law to listen to me on how to >tune it. He wants to get it to run on 89, I say no way. I set up my 69 >390 w 9.5 to 1 at 6 degrees initial, spark ported vacuam, and ran 93 >octane fuel. He wants to disable >the vacuam advance entirely and run 15 degrees initial. I bet him a 12 >pack that you wouldn't get it to start under soak. That backed the >stingy SOB off a little, but anyway, any advice? > We have a 69 351W that Dad hopped up, 0.060 over, and a bigger cam, it turned out to be a 4v motor when he took it apart, so I'm sure he put pistons back in for it. Unfortunately I don't know the cam specs. When I borrowed it from him last summer it was loping and a little rough to launch from a stop (open rearend will do that). I set the timing up to 14deg, so it had some ping, but its been runnin fine on 89 octane (course Dad backed it off to 12 when I gave it back to him, too much ping he said, so its all a matter of taste I guess). I use ethanol around here, dunno if that will affect it much, but it might be enough, Dad doesn't, so that could be why the pinging came on so bad for him. This is a 2V with stock duals on it too, nothing special done to it at all. Maybe the 4V would make a difference (feeding differently) >Another problem surfaced when we came back from a test drive. The >engine died a block from the shop, and the starter dragged real bad. I've always had warm 351's have that problem. Lettem sit for a minute and they'll be fine ... probably too much heat in the starter. >Upon restart, it wouldn't idle, and the starter still drags. Maybe a >coincedence, trashy gas, causing the bad idle, and a sick starter? Might doublecheck the timing, be sure you're not off a tooth or something with the distributor, just to be sure. Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 06:45:36 PDT From: "b hp" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: F250 Exhaust Just a thought ...I noticed a huge difference when I put a down turned end on my tail pipe. Seems you get more resonance when you point the exhaust towards the ground. When I bought my truck..it had a "cherry bomb" (read useless) muffler. It used to be quite amusing accidentally setting off car alarms... Bruce 1965 M-100 240|6 2WD ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:54:15 EDT From: SMOKEY5209 aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Door Skins Anybody ever put on a door skin? I have two doors that need help and a skin seems to be the way to go if it doesn't require rocket science. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in Advance == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:00:48 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - carb..Size???Whats it from??? >Can anybody tell me what this carb is from and size from this part # >Its an autolite 4 bbl # C1AE-9510-AH...thanks >-- Dunno if anyone's responded to this to you directly, but here's what I can come up with: C = 1960's (gotta be Y2K compliant right ? :) 1 = 1st year of decade (so 1961) A = Full sized Ford part E = Engine part 9510 = Carburetor I would guess ... AH = design revision At least that's my understanding of it, so its off of a full size 61 Ford... I think the autolites are 600cfm, but don't hold me to that, as there are some odd ducks out there that are not. Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:21:40 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overheating I-6 Jason Upchurch writes: >> What do you think about it overheating when you dare to go above 60mph? Done all the essentials, fan shroud, thermostat, new hoses, and even made sure my heater core wasn't clogged. The cap has a rating of 13lbs. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated because I drive my beauty to work on an interstate- I-40 for those of you around Raleigh NC, and that just will not do! Typical of needing a better heat transfer from the radiator to the atmosphere. Have your radiator "rodded" (clean out each flu with a brush) by your local competent radiator shop. Azie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:30:54 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - 410 Stockman writes: >>However, if the 410 is the greatest thing since Stu's NOS lifter springs......how come it was not in production for more years and offered in more car lines and/or trucks? One more of the great mysteries from FOMOCO.. Remember -- this engine was never offered in Trucks. Only Mercury cars '66 & '67. I am in total agreement about it being a perfect truck engine, however. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:48:26 -0500 From: John LaGrone Subject: FTE 61-79 - Let's all do a 410 swap >>Stockman wrote: However, if the 410 is the greatest thing since Stu's NOS lifter springs......how come it was not in production for more years and offered in more car lines and/or trucks? The best of anything is usually not the most prolific. Cases in point. 1. small block Ch#vi#s. 2. Windows. 3. VHS video tape 4. Rolex watches 5. Lamborghini's (probably spelled wrong) , etc. - -John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:56:57 -0500 From: John LaGrone Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M knock >>I think that any internal engine sound that goes away w/ the application of power means big trouble. I'm thinking rod knock or piston slap. There is nothing you can do to fix these short of rebuilding the engine. Nick, Dave is 100% correct, as usual. Get a broom or mop handle and listen to your water pump and alternator, smog pump, power steering, etc., then listen to different parts of the upper engine. This is a poor man's mechanic's stethescope. If you can isolate noise or eliminate accessories this way, you can save yourself a lot of wasted effort on stuff that doesn't need fixed. Of course you want to do all of this checking in the safety of your driveway. An assistant can help you vary the rpm. Watch out for those moving parts!! - -John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:03:26 -0500 From: John LaGrone Subject: FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing >>Remember boys and girls, FEAR begins with FE!!!! Stu, you need a t-shirt with the "FEar nothing" logo and a picture of your truck. - -John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:13:40 -0500 From: John LaGrone Subject: FTE 61-79 - F250 exhaust >>cannandale writes: Just one warning, you didnt say, but if your truck is >>a 4wd and you do any offroading you dont want them to come straight out the back, i had that when i first got it, backed down a hill and the bumper hit the ground, drove the pipes into the ground and bent them up pretty bad, so i went to side exits.. Rob, You also don't want them straight out the back if you are going to be pulling a trailer any amount of time or if you have a camper shell that will be carrying passengers. The first has been known to fry the rear of your truck and the front of the trailer. The second can shorten the life of your passengers. I personally prefer the exhausts to exit behind the rear wheel at about a 45 degree angle to the body line. Nothing looks cooler than the steam coming out both sides on a frosty morning IMHO. Also, if you have mudflaps, be sure they don't sail into the exhaust. Makes nice little burn holes. - -John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:43:56 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 flywheel Barry writes: >>Guys,Did I read right a 360 flywheel will fit on a 429/460? Is there anything special I need to know about? We're gonna put a 460 police engine in a 76 4X4, it currently has a 360 4spd,we already have the bellhousing and I take we can use the 360 fly wheel? 460 has an auto behind it. Yep!! You read it right. your 360 flywheel will work, but for insurance, take it, along with the auto flywheell off the 460, to your local automotive machine shop that does balance work and let them clean the 360 flywheel up(surface it) and check the balance between the 460 auto and it. They both will be Zero balanced, but this way, you will know for sure. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:44:58 -0400 From: David Henderson Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 410 mystery >Stockman writes: >>However, if the 410 is the greatest thing since Stu's NOS >lifter >springs......how come it was not in production for more years and offered in >more car lines and/or trucks? > >One more of the great mysteries from FOMOCO.. Remember -- this engine was >never offered in Trucks. Only Mercury cars '66 & '67. >I am in total agreement about it being a perfect truck engine, however. > >Azie >Ardmore, Al. Add to this why FoMoCo stopped production on the 300 I6 (and 460 as well, I understand). I guess they were too dependable. Dave H - -- _ _| ~~. David Henderson \, _} DHenders VT.Edu \( Gig 'em Aggies! '93 Currently at: Interdepartmental Genetics Program 2010 Litton Reaves Hall Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University Blacksburg, VA 24061 (540)231-4773 (540)231-5014 DHenders VT.Edu http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:52:34 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Balance Stoney writes: >>Just happens that I've got a 429 in the garage floor right now I just picked up that is internally balanced (I think), spacer has counter weight and so did flywheel. I'll write down numbers and bring them with me to the Forge, see you there and compare notes. If it has counter weights, then it is Externally balanced. I've just never seen one of these. I don't doubt that they were made, just that mine (and what few I've helped work on) do not have counterbalances on the flywheel nor the vibration damper nor the damper spacer... See ya in PF. I'm leaving Wed after work. Arrive PF mid morning Thursday. Will be staying at Howard Johnsons, though - not with the Group. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:19:41 -0500 From: "Corey Johnson" Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps Does anyone have any problems with their electrical systems as far as not apparently pushing out enough voltage/amperage? Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say, turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything else I should check or is this just normal? TIA, Corey Johnson '66 F100 Custom == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:29:41 -0700 From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem Well I fired it up, broke in the cam, and drove it from my friends garage to my house 12 miles away. Checked the distributor gear and it's eaten 1/16 inch into the gear. What am I missing??????????? Do I need to drill out the oil valley plug above the distributor gear so it oils it better? I'm at my witts end to what is wrong. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated. Matt T - ------------------------------ Matt, You may need to use a bronze distributor gear. Check with your cam manufacturer. I don't know the specifics but I have seen them mentioned in some of the performance rags. If you do need one I think they wear faster because they are pretty soft (not in 12 miles though). Tom H. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:43:43 -0500 From: "Michael Masse" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M knock I have the exact same problem with my 78 351M which has about 10k on it = since rebuild. It only knocks when on the highway during float. The = noise goes away during coast or power. I haven't messed with the timing = yet, but I do notice that it doesn't do it when I use premium gas. I use = a non-egr edlebrock intake and after the nice explaination of what happens = when you remove egr last week, I'm guessing this has something to do with = it. When I first completed the rebuild, I still had the stock 2bbl 2150 = and intake on it, and it knocked. I then went to the edlebrock intake = with a holley 600 cfm 4160 and the knocking went away completely, and I = have since gone to a carter 625 cfm, and the knocking is back again. So = basicly what I'm saying is that at least in my case it's a combination of = compression, timing and fuel mixture. =20 >>> John LaGrone 11-05-99 8:56:57 AM >>> >>I think that any internal engine sound that goes away w/ the application = of power means big trouble. I'm thinking rod knock or piston slap. There is nothing you can do to fix these short of rebuilding the engine. Nick, Dave is 100% correct, as usual. Get a broom or mop handle and listen to your water pump and alternator, smog pump, power steering, etc., then listen to different parts of the upper engine. This is a poor man's mechanic's stethescope. If you can isolate noise or eliminate accessories this way, you can save yourself a lot of wasted effort on stuff that doesn't need fixed. Of course you want to do all of this checking in the safety of your driveway. An assistant can help you vary the rpm. Watch out for those moving parts!! - -John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm=20 Dearborn iron rules!!!!!! =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.htm= l == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:49:42 -0500 From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps Corey Johnson wrote: > > Does anyone have any problems with their electrical systems as far as > not apparently pushing out enough voltage/amperage? > > Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say, > turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on > my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything > else I should check or is this just normal? > > TIA, > > Corey Johnson > '66 F100 Custom > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html I used to have that problem. I tried several alternators and voltage regulators. Nothing worked. Finally solved the problem by putting on a GM internaly regulated alternator. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:29:44 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps > Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say, >turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on >my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything >else I should check or is this just normal? > Check the voltage regulator, also check the one for the dash, is it possible its just showing on the dash as a draw but not really drawing the truck down ? Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:26:18 -0700 From: Vogt Family Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: F250 Exhaust On Mon, 10 May 1999, Rob Long wrote: > > I need some advice for my '78 F250 400M.... I want to put duel exhaust > on it with something that has a nice, tasteful rumble. I don't want > anything that will set off car alarms and rattle the neighbors windows. > Just a slight rumble that gets attention from other people. Are glass > packs too loud? My friend has a '78 Bronco with glass packs the exhaust > pipes come out to each side of the truck so you don't get the true sound > of the exhaust. I want my pipes to come straight out the back. > If anyone can understand what I'm talking about.... a response would be > greatly appreciated !! ! ! I think I know what you mean. However, I don't exactly see what you want with the pipes out the back. That just seems to be the fad these days. I think you get a much better "stereo rumble" if you put the pipes out ahead of the tires. As far as mufflers, I think glass packs will give it too much "crakcle" or a "rap-rappey" sound as a friend put it. I personally like "turbo" style mufflers, they mellow out the sound a bit and give it more of a bass rumble. Birken == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:31:18 -0600 From: Marko Maryniak Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Let's all do a 410 swap At 08:48 AM 11/05/99 -0500, you wrote: >>>Stockman wrote: >However, if the 410 is the greatest thing since Stu's NOS lifter >springs......how come it was not in production for more years and offered in >more car lines and/or trucks? > >The best of anything is usually not the most prolific. Cases in point. 1. >small block Ch#vi#s. 2. Windows. 3. VHS video tape 4. Rolex watches 5. >Lamborghini's (probably spelled wrong) , etc. > It took me a second to catch the exact drift of #1 there. Well done!!! marko == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:33:03 -0700 From: Vogt Family Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 410 Mercury On Mon, 10 May 1999, Marko Maryniak wrote: > > At 09:35 AM 10/05/99 -0500, you wrote: > I'd like to put a 428 crank in a 427 > >block for about 440-450 cubes! Oh well. Happy driving! > > That motor I affectionately call "Stu's Revenge", in other words, it works > out to > a 454 Ford. No, thats with it .030 over...standard bore it is a 447...I noticed the 454 too doing math on it one day... Birken == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:42:56 EDT From: Brazzadog aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - '78 F250 internal hubs Can anybody tell me if the internal hubs on the Dana 44 under the front of my '78 F-250 are the same as the 1/2 tons and Bronco's? They look the same size on the outside. Ben Williams '78 F-250 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:45:19 -0600 From: "Dave Resch" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID >Dave Welsh wrote: > > Hi all! I recently became the proud owner of a 78 > Bronco. The previous owner did an engine rebuild/swap > a couple of years ago. The original engine was a 351M. > He says the new engine is a 400. The valve covers > still have a 351 tag on them. Is there any way through > block numbers to verify what engine I have? > Then Ox wrote: > No, blocks are the same. You can pull out >a plug and check the stroke with a bent piece >of stiff wire. 3.5" for 351M and 4" for 400. It's not >that easy to get an accurate measurement >though. Yo Dave: Ox is right. The only difference between the 351M and 400 is the stroke. It might be a pain in the rear (you have to drop the oil pan), but one sure way to tell is by looking at the casting numbers on the crankshaft. The crankshaft casting numbers appear on the first counterweight or first throw (at the front of the engine). Sometimes you have to look around on the sides of the counterweight to find them. All 400 cranks have the numbers "5M." All 351M cranks have the numbers "1K." Dave R (M-block devotee) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:04:31 -0400 From: Ted Wnorowski Subject: FTE 61-79 - '75 Club Cab This was in Truck Roundup that I got today: '75 FORD CLUB CAB F 250, 3/4T, 4dr, cab with utility bed, white spokes, 360 eng, a/t, good work truck, 606-878-2555 London,KY Ted Wnorowski "ON STRIKE" Bellevue,OH == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:28:53 -0400 From: "Don Haring, Jr." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Steering Adjust John McKay asked: > need some help with a '78 F-150 4x4. On the top of the steering box > is a slotted bolt with a lock nut. What is the adjustment for and > what's the proper way to adjust it ? Thanks == That screw is the sector adjust screw. It adjusts the load on the sector shaft -- the shaft that translates rotation from the steering wheel to side-to-side movement. If you have having steering problems, most commonly a "loose" feeling in the steering, you must first check the bearing adjust nut, which is a big castillated nut where the steering shaft enters the steering box. This adjustment adjusts the preload on the steering. Then you adjust the sector to specs, which will be a torque reading measured at the steering wheel. You'll need shop manual instructions to make the adjustments. If you just crank down the sector adjust screw without regard to the bearing adjust, or if you ignore the torque readings, there is a good chance you will just prematurely wear out the sector and worm shafts, junking your steering box. As you might know, having a steering box rebuild is not cheap. Adjusting theses settings properly will really improve a bad handling old truck, though. It was one of the first things I did to my Club Wagon> Prior to that, it wandered and responded so badly, I have no idea how the previous owner drove it. - -don - --- Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:32:06 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '78 F250 internal hubs Brazzadog aol.com wrote: > > Can anybody tell me if the internal hubs on the Dana 44 under the front of my > '78 F-250 are the same as the 1/2 tons and Bronco's? They look the same size > on the outside. > The locking mechanism (guts) and hub end cover (with twisitng actuator) are the same. The actual hub is different. The outer bearing may be the same (they look close), the inner bearing is bigger on the F250. The spindles are different also. OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:35:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question Bill wrote: [test drive thrills snipped] > Another problem surfaced when we came back from a test drive. The > engine died a block from the shop, and the starter dragged real bad. > Upon restart, it wouldn't idle, and the starter still drags. Maybe a > coincedence, trashy gas, causing the bad idle, and a sick starter? I > don't know. We haven't hooked up and tried to track it down yet. What I > was wondering though, doesn't the Duraspark box have a retard feature > that comes in during cranking? I'm not as versed in this system as I > should be, but has anyone ever encountered an ignition prioblem like > this that was traceable to the ignition box, and if so, how can I hook > up and diagnose it? IIRC, we kicked this around a while back here. Here's a schematic, http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman/duraspark.htm It shows the white wire to the module as being the start retard. Further, I recall there being a special module for 460's that had additional retard built in (different color grommet?). Steve was interested in trying to set this up as an in-cab advance control, alas, he found through tickling the module with a signal generator and watching on a scope that the retard feature is a fixed TIME delay, so the actual timing retard is dependant on the RPM. - -- Pat Brown From sunny and warm Sebastopol, California == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:48:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem Tom H. wrote: > Matt asks: >> >> Well I fired it up, broke in the cam, and drove it from my friends >> garage to my house 12 miles away. Checked the distributor gear and >> it's eaten 1/16 inch into the gear. >> >> What am I missing??????????? Do I need to drill out the oil valley >> plug above the distributor gear so it oils it better? I'm at my >> witts end to what is wrong. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated. > ------------------------------ > Matt, > You may need to use a bronze distributor gear. Check with your cam > manufacturer. I don't know the specifics but I have seen them mentioned in > some of the performance rags. If you do need one I think they wear faster > because they are pretty soft (not in 12 miles though). Well, when looking over the duraspark page I just listed for Bill's question (http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman/duraspark.htm), I came across this little gem at the bottom of the page: > >Also be sure to use the correct distributor drive gear. The material > >must be compatible with the camshaft. Most normal cast iron camshafts > >require a cast iron distributor gear. Hydraulic roller camshafts are > >generally steel, and require a steel gear. Some aftermarket camshaft > >manufacturers specify the use of a bronze gear. Gears in all > > combinations of size and material are available from Ford Motorsport. - -- Pat Brown Sebastopol, California == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:14:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps > Corey Johnson wrote: > > > > Does anyone have any problems with their electrical systems as far as > > not apparently pushing out enough voltage/amperage? > > > > Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say, > > turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on > > my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything > > else I should check or is this just normal? Corey, some alternators just don't put out enough at low RPM's to make up for heavy loads. You could probably go over everything with a fine tooth comb, but todays solid-state regulators aren't normally adjustable. My truck (well, with its barely-moving ammeter) will show a discharge at idle when the lights are on, I've never worried about it. Jim Elliot was fretting over this recently, he suspected a wierd just-right stackup of washers on all the connections can affect idle voltages (and currents). One of the Kendricks replied: > I used to have that problem. I tried several alternators and voltage > regulators. Nothing worked. Finally solved the problem by putting on a > [G-word snipped for sensitivity reasons] internaly regulated alternator. Oh-Oh. Here comes Marko, and Stu, again. Hang on, Kendricks :-) - -- Pat Brown Sebastopol, California is a Nuclear-Free Zone == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:29:37 EDT From: Rollie H Hunt Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons What is the difference in 2V and 4V pistons ? Currently I am building a 2V 351C .I may put a 4V intake and carburetor on it . So do I need to ask for a certain piston from the machine shop ? Thanks in advance . Rollie . ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:32:36 -0500 From: "Corey Johnson" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps Thanks for all the replies.... I guess I'll just have to live with it... What about noise suppression? Anyone know what the best thing for it is on old trucks?.... I am getting ready to install a stereo and just know there's gonna be a problem. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:29:38 -0500 From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps Pat Brown wrote: > > > Corey Johnson wrote: > > > > > > Does anyone have any problems with their electrical systems as far as > > > not apparently pushing out enough voltage/amperage? > > > > > > Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say, > > > turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on > > > my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything > > > else I should check or is this just normal? > > Corey, some alternators just don't put out enough at low RPM's > to make up for heavy loads. You could probably go over everything > with a fine tooth comb, but todays solid-state regulators aren't > normally adjustable. My truck (well, with its barely-moving ammeter) > will show a discharge at idle when the lights are on, I've never > worried about it. Jim Elliot was fretting over this recently, he > suspected a wierd just-right stackup of washers on all the > connections can affect idle voltages (and currents). > > One of the Kendricks replied: > > > I used to have that problem. I tried several alternators and voltage > > regulators. Nothing worked. Finally solved the problem by putting on a > > [G-word snipped for sensitivity reasons] internaly regulated alternator. > > Oh-Oh. Here comes Marko, and Stu, again. Hang on, Kendricks :-) > -- > Pat Brown > Sebastopol, California is a Nuclear-Free Zone > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html I know- I cheated and put a brand x part on my truck, so I'm ready for any and all criticism. Jason == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:09:47 -0700 From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons If you're putting 2V heads on it it shouldn't make any difference. It doesn't make much sense to put a factory manifold designed for 4V heads on a 2V but if it's an aftermarket 4V (Edelbrock, Weiand, etc.) designed for 2V heads then it should work fine. The only real issues you have to worry about with the pistons are comp. ratio and piston to valve clearance. Stock 2V heads have a comb. chamber volume of approx. 76 cc so when you look for pistons check out the comp ratio with that particular volume in mind. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" - -----Original Message----- From: Rollie H Hunt To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 11:31 AM Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons > What is the difference in 2V and 4V pistons ? Currently I am building a >2V 351C .I may put a 4V intake and carburetor on it . So do I need to ask >for a certain piston from the machine shop ? Thanks in advance . == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:09:21 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons > What is the difference in 2V and 4V pistons ? Currently I am building a >2V 351C .I may put a 4V intake and carburetor on it . So do I need to ask >for a certain piston from the machine shop ? Thanks in advance . > Sorry if I caused confusion in my post, I was referring to the 351W which has a higher comp. ratio on the 4v than on the 2V ... I don't know about the C's, but I would imagine you can get about any c.r. you want. If you've got non AL heads, then I think they recommend 9.0:1 or less. Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:04:42 +0200 From: "Bill Brox" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing but what about all the FT engines in the trucks,,, ??? Would you please spell in phonetics how to pronounce "FTar nothing". And then translate it to English, or even Norwegian..... LOL Bill - ---------- > From: John LaGrone > To: Ford Trucks 61-79 > Subject: FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing > Date: 11. mai 1999 16:03 > > >>Remember boys and girls, FEAR begins with FE!!!! > > Stu, you need a t-shirt with the "FEar nothing" logo and a picture of your > truck. > > > -John > > jlagrone ford-trucks.com > 1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry) > http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm > Dearborn iron rules!!!!!! > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 16:40:10 -0400 From: William King Subject: FTE 61-79 - A big Ford Truck trip Hi all, I took my 1968 F100 (2wd) to Boston this weekend with a trailer to retrieve my 1968 Torino (which has been sitting patiently in storage until I could bring it to Ohio). First, I want to thank the list for offering advice (over a year ago) for selecting a trailer hitch (thanks to Azie and OX in particular). I was nervous about the trip, but everything went well. The truck ran flawlessly for the entire 1500 mile round-trip. I knocked down ~11 mpgs while pulling about 6,000 lbs, and never had to downshift out of 4th gear (well. Except when I was coming to a stop of course). Not bad for a 360. This is the reason I bought a full-size Ford years ago, and I'm estatic that the trip went so well. Perhaps this will quiet my coworkers (and students) who tease me about my truck. Probably not. Ohio Bill 1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed) 1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:43:16 -0700 (PDT) From: draco pacifier.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - C6 valve body replacement Anyone have a good guess as to how long would it take to replace the valve body in a C6 transmission? I was going to do it this weekend, but if it does not take that long I can do it one evening after work. Are there any parts I need besides a pan gasket, the valve body and a case of fluid? Are there any potential pitfalls I should know about? Mark in Southwest Washington www.pacifier.com/~draco - -- '74 F-100 4X4 '74 F-250 Supercab == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:43:44 -0700 From: "Danger" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A big Ford Truck trip Ohio Bill wrote... I was nervous about the trip, but everything went well. The truck ran flawlessly for the entire 1500 mile round-trip. I knocked down ~11 mpgs while pulling about 6,000 lbs..... Perhaps this will quiet my coworkers (and students) who tease me about my truck. Probably not. .................... Yep,... I've seen a tired 360 in my fathers 72 F250 make long trips like that with a camper on the truck and two campers on the flatbed trailer behind it. I'm right in the middle of rebuilding a 360 for my 69 which shouldn't have any trouble getting me over the top of "Parleys Canyon" (Salt Lake City) with a large camper and a trailer with offroad motorcycles.... Woohooo~! An FE for the uphill, and power disc brakes for downhill. Danger danger csolutions.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/danger == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:23:20 -0500 From: cannandale netpointe.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 distrubutor, 7mm, 8mm Getting ready to drop my 460 back into my truck, been short-blocking it at work. Anyways, I have electronic ignition, but the small style cap, its a '73, and I want to go to the large cap. I saw on the tech articles about changing the distrutor all-togethor, but why cant you just put the gray adapter base on it, a new rotor button, and the big cap? Because I was looking at a 302 I have in the garage with the big style cap, and it dosent look any diffrent. Is there any diffrences that could keep me from doing this? Is there weights in there, or shaft height, I couldnt see anything.. thanx, cannandale '78 F250 4x4, 460 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:52:02 EDT From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 410 In a message dated 5/11/99 7:38:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time, am14 daimlerchrysler.com writes: > Let me add to this. My dad and I built a 410 for his F250 4x4. Its basically stock, with the exception of an RV cam (adv 3'), an edelbrock manifold, and headers. This truck makes more torque than my 460, and when I say more I mean it will burn the 38.5x15 monster mudders from a rolling start, and its a 3.73 Posi set up. Only drawback is that the degreed cam causes the engine to run out at about 4500 RPMs. Without a doubt, a stock set cam would let this thing run into the hi 5's, low 6's. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:15:57 -0500 From: "Norm" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 distrubutor, 7mm, 8mm Anyways, I have electronic ignition, but the small style cap, its a >'73, and I want to go to the large cap. I saw on the tech articles about >changing the distrutor all-togethor, but why cant you just put the gray >adapter base on it, a new rotor button, and the big cap? Because I was >looking at a 302 I have in the garage with the big style cap, and it dosent >look any diffrent. Is there any diffrences that could keep me from doing >this? Is there weights in there, or shaft height, I couldnt see anything.. Dude! all ya need is the adapter and big cap.......it is that simple! they are the same distributor! Norm == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:31:41 EDT From: Clemstang1 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Heads Sorry it took me so long to reply been trying to get ready to go to the Mobil 1 show in Illinois. I would really like $250.00 for the heads. If you are still interested let me know? I still have 1 set of C8VE and 1 set of D0VE and 1 head DOVE unless I can locate the other one. Thanks 73 F-150 (pro-street) 460 79 F-150 Lariat 460 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:33:05 -0400 From: "Timothy R. Anderson" Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:...makings of a 428 Marko, you wrote "it sounds to me like you have the makings of a 428!" Yep, I thought about it but after seeing Azie's mention that he'd bored into the water jackets on a couple of blocks, I decided not to risk a perfectly good 390. I did have a 428 in a '69 Cougar and wow!, could that thing go! I've been keeping my eyes open for a good 428 block but was thinking that I might just build up what I already have... until I get serious about a 428 again. As for hunting, fishing, tipping, etc., I used to do that stuff but am too busy raising a 3 yr.-old now. With SWMBO working nights, that leaves little time for play. But I'll get back to it eventually. Give me a shout if you get up this way. It'd be nice to put some faces with all the names on the list. Thanks. Tim in Anchorage '67 F-100 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:45:49 -0700 From: "K. Moulton" Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes Help! I just purchased this gorgeous '66 Ford F-100 Custom Cab w/ 71K original miles for $500... pocket change! I am seriously stoked about this one, she's been the total object of my obsession since I got her. First day, I dug into the ol' Chilton's to cross-reference the engine code, etc, and have been puzzled ever since. The book says the VIN plate is under the hood, on the cowl. Not. It's on the inside edge of the driver's door. Next, I have an engine code "Y" but according to the book, "Y" wasn' t even produced until 1970! Uh, OK, so I start looking for casting numbers on the block. Zilch. Nada. Then today, I'm scraping around all annoyed, and on the front of the driver's side head, here's a one-inch tall number.... 352. Engine size? Have never found CID stamped on an engine before, but I'm up for finding new things... that's why I like old trucks :) Howcome my VIN plate says "Y?" And I need info about parts interchangeability between 351, 352, 360, 361, 390 and 391... just the basic things, intake, exhaust, heads, starter for now... it'll be awhile before I can take the truck out of use long enough to do any rebuilding. Also, if anyone has a windshield for this baby, I'd be interested in where, condition and price :) Thanks, Kathy == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 01:09:32 -0500 From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes K. Moulton wrote: > > Help! I just purchased this gorgeous '66 Ford F-100 Custom Cab w/ 71K > original miles for $500... pocket change! I am seriously stoked about > this one, she's been the total object of my obsession since I got her. > First day, I dug into the ol' Chilton's to cross-reference the engine > code, etc, and have been puzzled ever since. The book says the VIN > plate is under the hood, on the cowl. Not. It's on the inside edge of > the driver's door. Next, I have an engine code "Y" but according to the > book, "Y" wasn' t even produced until 1970! Uh, OK, so I start looking > for casting numbers on the block. Zilch. Nada. Then today, I'm > scraping around all annoyed, and on the front of the driver's side head, > here's a one-inch tall number.... 352. Engine size? Have never found > CID stamped on an engine before, but I'm up for finding new things... > that's why I like old trucks :) Howcome my VIN plate says "Y?" And I > need info about parts interchangeability between 351, 352, 360, 361, 390 > and 391... just the basic things, intake, exhaust, heads, starter for > now... it'll be awhile before I can take the truck out of use long > enough to do any rebuilding. Also, if anyone has a windshield for this > baby, I'd be interested in where, condition and price :) > > Thanks, > Kathy > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html The "352" you see on the front of the block was the first displacement the FE series was produced. When Ford enlarged the displacement later on, they didn't bother to remove the "352" from the mold. Some blocks have "105" upside down and backward-this indicates a heavy duty block. Look below the cylinder head on the passenger side of the block for the block casting number. Be cautious interpreting the casting number-Ford used some casting numbers for different displacements. As for parts interchangability, may I recommend an excellent book. "How to rebuild big block ford engines" by Steve Christ. It is published by HPBooks. If your heads are 65 or prior, they have a tall intake port-2.14"x1.16" compared to 66 and later heads 1.85" or 1.75" x 1.16". Otherwise, all FE heads should interchange. Note-427 heads have large valves and will not fit-the valves will hit the cylinder wall. Intakes are the same as heads-early ones have the large port and later have the smaller port. Exhaust and starters are all the same except for some 428 car manifolds. They have three bolts per port. By the way, the cylinder head casting numbers are between the center two spark plugs. The numbers are arranged diagonaly. / \ like this. The first number would be something like C6AE AA. The second( if it's there) would be 6090. This particular casting number is for 66-67 352,390,410,428 without air. If.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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