61-79-list-digest Wednesday, May 12 1999 Volume 03 : Number 160



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:cleaning up after your truck
FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question
FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID
Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question
FTE 61-79 - Re: F250 Exhaust
FTE 61-79 - Door Skins
Re: FTE 61-79 - carb..Size???Whats it from???
FTE 61-79 - Overheating I-6
FTE 61-79 - 410
FTE 61-79 - Let's all do a 410 swap
FTE 61-79 - 351M knock
FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing
FTE 61-79 - F250 exhaust
FTE 61-79 - 360 flywheel
FTE 61-79 - RE: 410 mystery
FTE 61-79 - Balance
FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps
FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M knock
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps
FTE 61-79 - Re: F250 Exhaust
Re: FTE 61-79 - Let's all do a 410 swap
FTE 61-79 - Re: 410 Mercury
FTE 61-79 - '78 F250 internal hubs
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID
FTE 61-79 - '75 Club Cab
FTE 61-79 - Re: Steering Adjust
Re: FTE 61-79 - '78 F250 internal hubs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps
FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps
Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons
Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons
Re: FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing
FTE 61-79 - A big Ford Truck trip
FTE 61-79 - C6 valve body replacement
Re: FTE 61-79 - A big Ford Truck trip
FTE 61-79 - 460 distrubutor, 7mm, 8mm
Re: FTE 61-79 - 410
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 distrubutor, 7mm, 8mm
Re: FTE 61-79 - Heads
FTE 61-79 - RE:...makings of a 428
FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes

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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 03:07:04 -0700
From: Tim Neasham
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:cleaning up after your truck

Sorry, I didn't catch the original post, just the reply. (Jeez, I hate
having 4 different computers with 3 different e-mailers.) Anyways.. If
you need to eat the oil off, and don't mind a little work, go to a pool
supply store, and get some muratic acid. They use it for adjusting the
acidity (duh!) of pools. The stuff works GREAT for "bleaching" the
concrete regardless of whats been spilled. Just have plenty of water handy
to dilute it and rinse it off when you're done. I took a couple of gallons
of this stuff to my dad's garage floor for father's day last year
(Surprise!!!) and boy was he pissed. He said he'd worked for 15 years to
get the floor all the same color (Oil) and there I go getting it all white
on him. He made me help him paint the floor with some 2 epoxy paint. Now
the oil can sit for days and wipes right off.

Oh yeah, (FTE Content) I was trying to clean up some nasty oil spills that
I created with my '74 F-250. :)

At 19:45 5/10/99 , you wrote:
>Daniel,
>you wrote: "I'm a dead man if I don't get that
>garage cleaned !!"
>Wow, I didn't realise that a dirty garage could
>be fatal! Guess I've been living on borrowed
>time. But if I have to clean up after my Ford
>truck (FTE content) I find that kitty litter and time
>work well. In a hurry? I bought some stuff at
>Costco called Oil Eater that works well too.
>On the off chance that you have any, carbon
>tetrachloride is the finest spot remover ever
>but has been banned due to its carcinogenic
>nature. Too bad, that stuff was great!
>Your other options would be to stain all of the
>floor (my choice) or, if it's really bad, paint.
>It just sort of depends on whether your concerns
>stem from SWMBO or a landlord. Good luck!
>
>Tim in Anchorage
>'67 F-100


Tim Neasham
Benton City, Washington
'74 & '76 F-250
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:00:12 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question

We're working on a warmed up 351W we built for an '87 F150. It has K-B
pistons w/ 9.7 to 1 compression, a Speed Pro 214 .050 .480 lift cam.
Everything else is stock heavy-duty emissions 351W. It has the Holley
4bbl on it for the last year.

As I expected(it needed more cam!), it pings badly on 89 octane gas with
7 degrees initial. It won't tolerate manifold vacuam advance at all.
I'm trying to get my ornery brother in law to listen to me on how to
tune it. He wants to get it to run on 89, I say no way. I set up my 69
390 w 9.5 to 1 at 6 degrees initial, spark ported vacuam, and ran 93
octane fuel. It would roast the tires. But it would still ping a
little, under very light accelleration. If you gave it enough throttle
it wouldn't. I say set up the 351 like that 390. He wants to disable
the vacuam advance entirely and run 15 degrees initial. I bet him a 12
pack that you wouldn't get it to start under soak. That backed the
stingy SOB off a little, but anyway, any advice?

Another problem surfaced when we came back from a test drive. The
engine died a block from the shop, and the starter dragged real bad.
Upon restart, it wouldn't idle, and the starter still drags. Maybe a
coincedence, trashy gas, causing the bad idle, and a sick starter? I
don't know. We haven't hooked up and tried to track it down yet. What I
was wondering though, doesn't the Duraspark box have a retard feature
that comes in during cranking? I'm not as versed in this system as I
should be, but has anyone ever encountered an ignition prioblem like
this that was traceable to the ignition box, and if so, how can I hook
up and diagnose it?
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 06:26:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Welsh
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID

Hi all! I recently became the proud owner of a 78
Bronco. The previous owner did an engine rebuild/swap
a couple of years ago. The original engine was a 351M.
He says the new engine is a 400. The valve covers
still have a 351 tag on them. Is there any way through
block numbers to verify what engine I have?

TIA

Dave Welsh
Janesville, Need that 4X4 in winter, Wisconsin
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:37:23 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID

Dave Welsh wrote:
>
> Hi all! I recently became the proud owner of a 78
> Bronco. The previous owner did an engine rebuild/swap
> a couple of years ago. The original engine was a 351M.
> He says the new engine is a 400. The valve covers
> still have a 351 tag on them. Is there any way through
> block numbers to verify what engine I have?
>

No, blocks are the same. You can pull out a plug and check the stroke
with a bent piece of stiff wire. 3.5" for 351M and 4" for 400. It's not
that easy to get an accurate measurement though.

OX
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:43:15 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question

>As I expected(it needed more cam!), it pings badly on 89 octane gas with
>7 degrees initial.

Ouch, that's kinda scarey. Dunno what my compression ratio is going to be,
but hopefully I won't have that problem ... really don't want it in my 390.

>It won't tolerate manifold vacuam advance at all.
Do you have manifold vacuum with that cam ? or is it so lumpy that it
throws the advance around ?


>I'm trying to get my ornery brother in law to listen to me on how to
>tune it. He wants to get it to run on 89, I say no way. I set up my 69
>390 w 9.5 to 1 at 6 degrees initial, spark ported vacuam, and ran 93
>octane fuel. He wants to disable
>the vacuam advance entirely and run 15 degrees initial. I bet him a 12
>pack that you wouldn't get it to start under soak. That backed the
>stingy SOB off a little, but anyway, any advice?
>
We have a 69 351W that Dad hopped up, 0.060 over, and a bigger cam, it
turned out to be a 4v motor when he took it apart, so I'm sure he put
pistons back in for it. Unfortunately I don't know the cam specs. When I
borrowed it from him last summer it was loping and a little rough to launch
from a stop (open rearend will do that). I set the timing up to 14deg, so
it had some ping, but its been runnin fine on 89 octane (course Dad backed
it off to 12 when I gave it back to him, too much ping he said, so its all
a matter of taste I guess). I use ethanol around here, dunno if that will
affect it much, but it might be enough, Dad doesn't, so that could be why
the pinging came on so bad for him. This is a 2V with stock duals on it
too, nothing special done to it at all. Maybe the 4V would make a
difference (feeding differently)


>Another problem surfaced when we came back from a test drive. The
>engine died a block from the shop, and the starter dragged real bad.

I've always had warm 351's have that problem. Lettem sit for a minute and
they'll be fine ... probably too much heat in the starter.


>Upon restart, it wouldn't idle, and the starter still drags. Maybe a
>coincedence, trashy gas, causing the bad idle, and a sick starter?

Might doublecheck the timing, be sure you're not off a tooth or something
with the distributor, just to be sure.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 06:45:36 PDT
From: "b hp"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: F250 Exhaust

Just a thought ...I noticed a huge difference when I put a down turned end
on my tail pipe. Seems you get more resonance when you point the exhaust
towards the ground.

When I bought my truck..it had a "cherry bomb" (read useless) muffler. It
used to be quite amusing accidentally setting off car alarms...

Bruce
1965 M-100 240|6 2WD


______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:54:15 EDT
From: SMOKEY5209 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Door Skins

Anybody ever put on a door skin? I have two doors that need help and a skin
seems to be the way to go if it doesn't require rocket science. I would
appreciate any advice.
Thanks in Advance
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:00:48 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - carb..Size???Whats it from???

>Can anybody tell me what this carb is from and size from this part #
>Its an autolite 4 bbl # C1AE-9510-AH...thanks
>--

Dunno if anyone's responded to this to you directly, but here's what I can
come up with:
C = 1960's (gotta be Y2K compliant right ? :)
1 = 1st year of decade (so 1961)
A = Full sized Ford part
E = Engine part

9510 = Carburetor I would guess ...

AH = design revision

At least that's my understanding of it, so its off of a full size 61
Ford... I think the autolites are 600cfm, but don't hold me to that, as
there are some odd ducks out there that are not.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:21:40 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overheating I-6

Jason Upchurch writes: >> What do you think
about it overheating when you dare to go above 60mph? Done all the
essentials, fan shroud, thermostat, new hoses, and even made sure my heater
core wasn't clogged. The cap has a rating of 13lbs. Any ideas would
greatly be appreciated because I drive my beauty to work on an interstate-
I-40 for those of you around Raleigh NC, and that just will not do!

Typical of needing a better heat transfer from the radiator to the atmosphere.
Have your radiator "rodded" (clean out each flu with a brush) by your local
competent radiator shop.

Azie


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:30:54 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 410

Stockman writes: >>However, if the 410 is the greatest thing since Stu's NOS
lifter
springs......how come it was not in production for more years and offered in
more car lines and/or trucks?

One more of the great mysteries from FOMOCO.. Remember -- this engine was
never offered in Trucks. Only Mercury cars '66 & '67.
I am in total agreement about it being a perfect truck engine, however.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:48:26 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Let's all do a 410 swap

>>Stockman wrote:
However, if the 410 is the greatest thing since Stu's NOS lifter
springs......how come it was not in production for more years and offered in
more car lines and/or trucks?

The best of anything is usually not the most prolific. Cases in point. 1.
small block Ch#vi#s. 2. Windows. 3. VHS video tape 4. Rolex watches 5.
Lamborghini's (probably spelled wrong) , etc.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:56:57 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M knock

>>I think that any internal engine sound that goes away w/ the application of
power means big trouble. I'm thinking rod knock or piston slap. There is
nothing you can do to fix these short of rebuilding the engine.

Nick,

Dave is 100% correct, as usual. Get a broom or mop handle and listen to
your water pump and alternator, smog pump, power steering, etc., then
listen to different parts of the upper engine. This is a poor man's
mechanic's stethescope. If you can isolate noise or eliminate accessories
this way, you can save yourself a lot of wasted effort on stuff that
doesn't need fixed. Of course you want to do all of this checking in the
safety of your driveway. An assistant can help you vary the rpm. Watch out
for those moving parts!!

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:03:26 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing

>>Remember boys and girls, FEAR begins with FE!!!!

Stu, you need a t-shirt with the "FEar nothing" logo and a picture of your
truck.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:13:40 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F250 exhaust

>>cannandale writes: Just one warning, you didnt say, but if your truck is
>>a 4wd and you do any
offroading you dont want them to come straight out the back, i had that
when i first got it, backed down a hill and the bumper hit the ground,
drove the pipes into the ground and bent them up pretty bad, so i went to
side exits..

Rob,
You also don't want them straight out the back if you are going to be
pulling a trailer any amount of time or if you have a camper shell that
will be carrying passengers. The first has been known to fry the rear of
your truck and the front of the trailer. The second can shorten the life of
your passengers. I personally prefer the exhausts to exit behind the rear
wheel at about a 45 degree angle to the body line. Nothing looks cooler
than the steam coming out both sides on a frosty morning IMHO. Also, if you
have mudflaps, be sure they don't sail into the exhaust. Makes nice little
burn holes.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:43:56 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 flywheel

Barry writes: >>Guys,Did I read right a 360 flywheel will fit on a 429/460? Is
there
anything special I need to know about?
We're gonna put a 460 police engine in a 76 4X4, it currently has a 360
4spd,we already have the bellhousing
and I take we can use the 360 fly wheel? 460 has an auto
behind it.

Yep!! You read it right. your 360 flywheel will work, but for insurance, take
it, along with the auto flywheell off the 460, to your local automotive machine
shop that does balance work and let them clean the 360 flywheel up(surface it)
and check the balance between the 460 auto and it. They both will be Zero
balanced, but this way, you will know for sure.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:44:58 -0400
From: David Henderson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 410 mystery

>Stockman writes: >>However, if the 410 is the greatest thing since Stu's NOS
>lifter
>springs......how come it was not in production for more years and offered in
>more car lines and/or trucks?
>
>One more of the great mysteries from FOMOCO.. Remember -- this engine was
>never offered in Trucks. Only Mercury cars '66 & '67.
>I am in total agreement about it being a perfect truck engine, however.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.

Add to this why FoMoCo stopped production on the 300 I6 (and 460 as well, I
understand). I guess they were too dependable.

Dave H

- --
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:52:34 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Balance

Stoney writes: >>Just happens that I've got a 429 in the garage floor right now
I just
picked up that is internally balanced (I think), spacer has counter weight
and so did flywheel. I'll write down numbers and bring them with me to the
Forge, see you there and compare notes.

If it has counter weights, then it is Externally balanced. I've just never seen
one of these. I don't doubt that they were made, just that mine (and what few
I've helped work on) do not have counterbalances on the flywheel nor the
vibration damper nor the damper spacer...

See ya in PF. I'm leaving Wed after work. Arrive PF mid morning Thursday.
Will be staying at Howard Johnsons, though - not with the Group.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:19:41 -0500
From: "Corey Johnson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps

Does anyone have any problems with their electrical systems as far as
not apparently pushing out enough voltage/amperage?

Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say,
turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on
my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything
else I should check or is this just normal?

TIA,

Corey Johnson
'66 F100 Custom

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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:29:41 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem


Well I fired it up, broke in the cam, and drove it from my friends garage to

my house 12 miles away. Checked the distributor gear and it's eaten 1/16
inch into the gear.


What am I missing??????????? Do I need to drill out the oil valley plug
above the distributor gear so it oils it better? I'm at my witts end to
what
is wrong. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.

Matt T

- ------------------------------
Matt,
You may need to use a bronze distributor gear. Check with your cam
manufacturer. I don't know the specifics but I have seen them mentioned in
some of the performance rags. If you do need one I think they wear faster
because they are pretty soft (not in 12 miles though).

Tom H.
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:43:43 -0500
From: "Michael Masse"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M knock

I have the exact same problem with my 78 351M which has about 10k on it =
since rebuild. It only knocks when on the highway during float. The =
noise goes away during coast or power. I haven't messed with the timing =
yet, but I do notice that it doesn't do it when I use premium gas. I use =
a non-egr edlebrock intake and after the nice explaination of what happens =
when you remove egr last week, I'm guessing this has something to do with =
it. When I first completed the rebuild, I still had the stock 2bbl 2150 =
and intake on it, and it knocked. I then went to the edlebrock intake =
with a holley 600 cfm 4160 and the knocking went away completely, and I =
have since gone to a carter 625 cfm, and the knocking is back again. So =
basicly what I'm saying is that at least in my case it's a combination of =
compression, timing and fuel mixture. =20

>>> John LaGrone 11-05-99 8:56:57 AM >>>
>>I think that any internal engine sound that goes away w/ the application =
of
power means big trouble. I'm thinking rod knock or piston slap. There is
nothing you can do to fix these short of rebuilding the engine.

Nick,

Dave is 100% correct, as usual. Get a broom or mop handle and listen to
your water pump and alternator, smog pump, power steering, etc., then
listen to different parts of the upper engine. This is a poor man's
mechanic's stethescope. If you can isolate noise or eliminate accessories
this way, you can save yourself a lot of wasted effort on stuff that
doesn't need fixed. Of course you want to do all of this checking in the
safety of your driveway. An assistant can help you vary the rpm. Watch out
for those moving parts!!

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm=20
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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l

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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:49:42 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps

Corey Johnson wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any problems with their electrical systems as far as
> not apparently pushing out enough voltage/amperage?
>
> Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say,
> turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on
> my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything
> else I should check or is this just normal?
>
> TIA,
>
> Corey Johnson
> '66 F100 Custom
>
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I used to have that problem. I tried several alternators and voltage
regulators. Nothing worked. Finally solved the problem by putting on a
GM internaly regulated alternator.
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:29:44 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps

> Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say,
>turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on
>my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything
>else I should check or is this just normal?
>
Check the voltage regulator, also check the one for the dash, is it
possible its just showing on the dash as a draw but not really drawing the
truck down ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:26:18 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: F250 Exhaust

On Mon, 10 May 1999, Rob Long wrote:
>
> I need some advice for my '78 F250 400M.... I want to put duel exhaust
> on it with something that has a nice, tasteful rumble. I don't want
> anything that will set off car alarms and rattle the neighbors windows.
> Just a slight rumble that gets attention from other people. Are glass
> packs too loud? My friend has a '78 Bronco with glass packs the exhaust
> pipes come out to each side of the truck so you don't get the true sound
> of the exhaust. I want my pipes to come straight out the back.
> If anyone can understand what I'm talking about.... a response would be
> greatly appreciated !! ! !

I think I know what you mean. However, I don't exactly see what you
want with the pipes out the back. That just seems to be the fad these
days. I think you get a much better "stereo rumble" if you put the
pipes out ahead of the tires. As far as mufflers, I think glass packs
will give it too much "crakcle" or a "rap-rappey" sound as a friend put
it. I personally like "turbo" style mufflers, they mellow out the sound
a bit and give it more of a bass rumble.

Birken
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:31:18 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Let's all do a 410 swap

At 08:48 AM 11/05/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>>Stockman wrote:
>However, if the 410 is the greatest thing since Stu's NOS lifter
>springs......how come it was not in production for more years and offered in
>more car lines and/or trucks?
>
>The best of anything is usually not the most prolific. Cases in point. 1.
>small block Ch#vi#s. 2. Windows. 3. VHS video tape 4. Rolex watches 5.
>Lamborghini's (probably spelled wrong) , etc.
>
It took me a second to catch the exact drift of #1 there.

Well done!!!

marko

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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:33:03 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 410 Mercury

On Mon, 10 May 1999, Marko Maryniak wrote:
>
> At 09:35 AM 10/05/99 -0500, you wrote:
> I'd like to put a 428 crank in a 427
> >block for about 440-450 cubes! Oh well. Happy driving!
>
> That motor I affectionately call "Stu's Revenge", in other words, it works
> out to
> a 454 Ford.

No, thats with it .030 over...standard bore it is a 447...I noticed the
454 too doing math on it one day...

Birken
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:42:56 EDT
From: Brazzadog aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '78 F250 internal hubs

Can anybody tell me if the internal hubs on the Dana 44 under the front of my
'78 F-250 are the same as the 1/2 tons and Bronco's? They look the same size
on the outside.

Ben Williams
'78 F-250
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:45:19 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M - 400M Engine ID

>Dave Welsh wrote:
>
> Hi all! I recently became the proud owner of a 78
> Bronco. The previous owner did an engine rebuild/swap
> a couple of years ago. The original engine was a 351M.
> He says the new engine is a 400. The valve covers
> still have a 351 tag on them. Is there any way through
> block numbers to verify what engine I have?
>
Then Ox wrote:
> No, blocks are the same. You can pull out
>a plug and check the stroke with a bent piece
>of stiff wire. 3.5" for 351M and 4" for 400. It's not
>that easy to get an accurate measurement
>though.

Yo Dave:

Ox is right. The only difference between the 351M and 400 is the stroke.

It might be a pain in the rear (you have to drop the oil pan), but one sure way
to tell is by looking at the casting numbers on the crankshaft. The crankshaft
casting numbers appear on the first counterweight or first throw (at the front
of the engine). Sometimes you have to look around on the sides of the
counterweight to find them.

All 400 cranks have the numbers "5M." All 351M cranks have the numbers "1K."

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:04:31 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '75 Club Cab

This was in Truck Roundup that I got today:

'75 FORD CLUB CAB F 250, 3/4T, 4dr, cab with utility bed, white spokes, 360 eng, a/t, good work truck, 606-878-2555
London,KY

Ted Wnorowski
"ON STRIKE"
Bellevue,OH


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:28:53 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Steering Adjust

John McKay asked:
> need some help with a '78 F-150 4x4. On the top of the steering box
> is a slotted bolt with a lock nut. What is the adjustment for and
> what's the proper way to adjust it ? Thanks
==

That screw is the sector adjust screw. It adjusts the load on the sector
shaft -- the shaft that translates rotation from the steering wheel to
side-to-side movement.

If you have having steering problems, most commonly a "loose" feeling in
the steering, you must first check the bearing adjust nut, which is a big
castillated nut where the steering shaft enters the steering box. This
adjustment adjusts the preload on the steering. Then you adjust the sector
to specs, which will be a torque reading measured at the steering wheel.
You'll need shop manual instructions to make the adjustments.

If you just crank down the sector adjust screw without regard to the
bearing adjust, or if you ignore the torque readings, there is a good
chance you will just prematurely wear out the sector and worm shafts,
junking your steering box. As you might know, having a steering box rebuild
is not cheap.

Adjusting theses settings properly will really improve a bad handling old
truck, though. It was one of the first things I did to my Club Wagon> Prior
to that, it wandered and responded so badly, I have no idea how the
previous owner drove it.

- -don

- ---
Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon
Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters


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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:32:06 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '78 F250 internal hubs

Brazzadog aol.com wrote:
>
> Can anybody tell me if the internal hubs on the Dana 44 under the front of my
> '78 F-250 are the same as the 1/2 tons and Bronco's? They look the same size
> on the outside.
>

The locking mechanism (guts) and hub end cover (with twisitng
actuator) are the same. The actual hub is different. The outer bearing
may be the same (they look close), the inner bearing is bigger on the
F250. The spindles are different also.

OX
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:35:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Question

Bill wrote:
[test drive thrills snipped]

> Another problem surfaced when we came back from a test drive. The
> engine died a block from the shop, and the starter dragged real bad.
> Upon restart, it wouldn't idle, and the starter still drags. Maybe a
> coincedence, trashy gas, causing the bad idle, and a sick starter? I
> don't know. We haven't hooked up and tried to track it down yet. What I
> was wondering though, doesn't the Duraspark box have a retard feature
> that comes in during cranking? I'm not as versed in this system as I
> should be, but has anyone ever encountered an ignition prioblem like
> this that was traceable to the ignition box, and if so, how can I hook
> up and diagnose it?

IIRC, we kicked this around a while back here. Here's a schematic,

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman/duraspark.htm

It shows the white wire to the module as being the start retard.
Further, I recall there being a special module for 460's that
had additional retard built in (different color grommet?). Steve
was interested in trying to set this up as an in-cab advance
control, alas, he found through tickling the module with a
signal generator and watching on a scope that the retard
feature is a fixed TIME delay, so the actual timing retard
is dependant on the RPM.
- --
Pat Brown
From sunny and warm Sebastopol, California
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:48:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem

Tom H. wrote:
> Matt asks:
>>
>> Well I fired it up, broke in the cam, and drove it from my friends
>> garage to my house 12 miles away. Checked the distributor gear and
>> it's eaten 1/16 inch into the gear.
>>
>> What am I missing??????????? Do I need to drill out the oil valley
>> plug above the distributor gear so it oils it better? I'm at my
>> witts end to what is wrong. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.
> ------------------------------
> Matt,
> You may need to use a bronze distributor gear. Check with your cam
> manufacturer. I don't know the specifics but I have seen them mentioned in
> some of the performance rags. If you do need one I think they wear faster
> because they are pretty soft (not in 12 miles though).

Well, when looking over the duraspark page I just listed for Bill's
question (http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman/duraspark.htm), I came across
this little gem at the bottom of the page:

> >Also be sure to use the correct distributor drive gear. The material
> >must be compatible with the camshaft. Most normal cast iron camshafts
> >require a cast iron distributor gear. Hydraulic roller camshafts are
> >generally steel, and require a steel gear. Some aftermarket camshaft
> >manufacturers specify the use of a bronze gear. Gears in all
> > combinations of size and material are available from Ford Motorsport.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:14:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps

> Corey Johnson wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone have any problems with their electrical systems as far as
> > not apparently pushing out enough voltage/amperage?
> >
> > Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say,
> > turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on
> > my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything
> > else I should check or is this just normal?

Corey, some alternators just don't put out enough at low RPM's
to make up for heavy loads. You could probably go over everything
with a fine tooth comb, but todays solid-state regulators aren't
normally adjustable. My truck (well, with its barely-moving ammeter)
will show a discharge at idle when the lights are on, I've never
worried about it. Jim Elliot was fretting over this recently, he
suspected a wierd just-right stackup of washers on all the
connections can affect idle voltages (and currents).

One of the Kendricks replied:

> I used to have that problem. I tried several alternators and voltage
> regulators. Nothing worked. Finally solved the problem by putting on a
> [G-word snipped for sensitivity reasons] internaly regulated alternator.

Oh-Oh. Here comes Marko, and Stu, again. Hang on, Kendricks :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California is a Nuclear-Free Zone
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:29:37 EDT
From: Rollie H Hunt
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons

What is the difference in 2V and 4V pistons ? Currently I am building a
2V 351C .I may put a 4V intake and carburetor on it . So do I need to ask
for a certain piston from the machine shop ? Thanks in advance .

Rollie .

___________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:32:36 -0500
From: "Corey Johnson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps

Thanks for all the replies.... I guess I'll just have to live with it... What
about noise suppression? Anyone know what the best thing for it is on old
trucks?....
I am getting ready to install a stereo and just know there's gonna be a problem.



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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:29:38 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 voltages/amps

Pat Brown wrote:
>
> > Corey Johnson wrote:
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any problems with their electrical systems as far as
> > > not apparently pushing out enough voltage/amperage?
> > >
> > > Why I ask is because while driving and especially at a stop if I say,
> > > turn on my turn signal or wipers, it severely takes amperage (shown on
> > > my dash amm meter). I have replaced the battery ans altenator.. Anything
> > > else I should check or is this just normal?
>
> Corey, some alternators just don't put out enough at low RPM's
> to make up for heavy loads. You could probably go over everything
> with a fine tooth comb, but todays solid-state regulators aren't
> normally adjustable. My truck (well, with its barely-moving ammeter)
> will show a discharge at idle when the lights are on, I've never
> worried about it. Jim Elliot was fretting over this recently, he
> suspected a wierd just-right stackup of washers on all the
> connections can affect idle voltages (and currents).
>
> One of the Kendricks replied:
>
> > I used to have that problem. I tried several alternators and voltage
> > regulators. Nothing worked. Finally solved the problem by putting on a
> > [G-word snipped for sensitivity reasons] internaly regulated alternator.
>
> Oh-Oh. Here comes Marko, and Stu, again. Hang on, Kendricks :-)
> --
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California is a Nuclear-Free Zone
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I know- I cheated and put a brand x part on my truck, so I'm ready for
any and all criticism. Jason
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:09:47 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons

If you're putting 2V heads on it it shouldn't make any difference. It
doesn't make much sense to put a factory manifold designed for 4V heads on a
2V but if it's an aftermarket 4V (Edelbrock, Weiand, etc.) designed for 2V
heads then it should work fine. The only real issues you have to worry about
with the pistons are comp. ratio and piston to valve clearance. Stock 2V
heads have a comb. chamber volume of approx. 76 cc so when you look for
pistons check out the comp ratio with that particular volume in mind.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rollie H Hunt
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 11:31 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons


> What is the difference in 2V and 4V pistons ? Currently I am building a
>2V 351C .I may put a 4V intake and carburetor on it . So do I need to ask
>for a certain piston from the machine shop ? Thanks in advance .



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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:09:21 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff in 4V & 2V pistons

> What is the difference in 2V and 4V pistons ? Currently I am building a
>2V 351C .I may put a 4V intake and carburetor on it . So do I need to ask
>for a certain piston from the machine shop ? Thanks in advance .
>
Sorry if I caused confusion in my post, I was referring to the 351W which
has a higher comp. ratio on the 4v than on the 2V ... I don't know about
the C's, but I would imagine you can get about any c.r. you want. If
you've got non AL heads, then I think they recommend 9.0:1 or less.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:04:42 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing

but what about all the FT engines in the trucks,,, ??? Would you please
spell in phonetics how to pronounce "FTar nothing". And then translate it
to English, or even Norwegian..... LOL

Bill

- ----------
> From: John LaGrone
> To: Ford Trucks 61-79
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - FEar nothing
> Date: 11. mai 1999 16:03
>
> >>Remember boys and girls, FEAR begins with FE!!!!
>
> Stu, you need a t-shirt with the "FEar nothing" logo and a picture of
your
> truck.
>
>
> -John
>
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com
> 1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
> Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!
>
>
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 16:40:10 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A big Ford Truck trip

Hi all,
I took my 1968 F100 (2wd) to Boston this weekend with a trailer
to retrieve my 1968 Torino (which has been sitting patiently in
storage until I could bring it to Ohio). First, I want to thank
the list for offering advice (over a year ago) for selecting a
trailer hitch (thanks to Azie and OX in particular). I was nervous
about the trip, but everything went well. The truck ran flawlessly
for the entire 1500 mile round-trip. I knocked down ~11 mpgs while
pulling about 6,000 lbs, and never had to downshift out of 4th gear
(well. Except when I was coming to a stop of course). Not bad for a
360. This is the reason I bought a full-size Ford years ago, and
I'm estatic that the trip went so well. Perhaps this will quiet my
coworkers (and students) who tease me about my truck. Probably not.

Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:43:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C6 valve body replacement

Anyone have a good guess as to how long would it take to replace
the valve body in a C6 transmission? I was going to do it this
weekend, but if it does not take that long I can do it one evening
after work.

Are there any parts I need besides a pan gasket, the valve body
and a case of fluid?

Are there any potential pitfalls I should know about?


Mark in Southwest Washington
www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:43:44 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A big Ford Truck trip

Ohio Bill wrote...
I was nervous about the trip, but everything went well. The truck ran
flawlessly for the entire 1500 mile round-trip. I knocked down ~11 mpgs
while pulling about 6,000 lbs.....
Perhaps this will quiet my coworkers (and students) who tease me about
my truck. Probably not.
....................

Yep,... I've seen a tired 360 in my fathers 72 F250 make long trips
like that with a camper on the truck and two campers on the flatbed trailer
behind it. I'm right in the middle of rebuilding a 360 for my 69 which
shouldn't have any trouble getting me over the top of "Parleys Canyon" (Salt
Lake City) with a large camper and a trailer with offroad motorcycles....
Woohooo~!

An FE for the uphill, and power disc brakes for downhill.


Danger
danger csolutions.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/danger



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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:23:20 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 distrubutor, 7mm, 8mm

Getting ready to drop my 460 back into my truck, been short-blocking it at
work. Anyways, I have electronic ignition, but the small style cap, its a
'73, and I want to go to the large cap. I saw on the tech articles about
changing the distrutor all-togethor, but why cant you just put the gray
adapter base on it, a new rotor button, and the big cap? Because I was
looking at a 302 I have in the garage with the big style cap, and it dosent
look any diffrent. Is there any diffrences that could keep me from doing
this? Is there weights in there, or shaft height, I couldnt see anything..

thanx,
cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460




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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:52:02 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 410

In a message dated 5/11/99 7:38:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
am14 daimlerchrysler.com writes:

>

Let me add to this. My dad and I built a 410 for his F250 4x4. Its
basically stock, with the exception of an RV cam (adv 3'), an edelbrock
manifold, and headers. This truck makes more torque than my 460, and when I
say more I mean it will burn the 38.5x15 monster mudders from a rolling
start, and its a 3.73 Posi set up. Only drawback is that the degreed cam
causes the engine to run out at about 4500 RPMs. Without a doubt, a stock
set cam would let this thing run into the hi 5's, low 6's.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:15:57 -0500
From: "Norm"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 distrubutor, 7mm, 8mm

Anyways, I have electronic ignition, but the small style cap, its a
>'73, and I want to go to the large cap. I saw on the tech articles about
>changing the distrutor all-togethor, but why cant you just put the gray
>adapter base on it, a new rotor button, and the big cap? Because I was
>looking at a 302 I have in the garage with the big style cap, and it dosent
>look any diffrent. Is there any diffrences that could keep me from doing
>this? Is there weights in there, or shaft height, I couldnt see
anything..


Dude! all ya need is the adapter and big cap.......it is that simple! they
are the same distributor!

Norm

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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:31:41 EDT
From: Clemstang1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Heads

Sorry it took me so long to reply been trying to get ready to go to the Mobil
1 show in Illinois. I would really like $250.00 for the heads. If you are
still interested let me know? I still have 1 set of C8VE and 1 set of D0VE
and 1 head DOVE unless I can locate the other one.


Thanks


73 F-150 (pro-street) 460
79 F-150 Lariat 460
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:33:05 -0400
From: "Timothy R. Anderson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:...makings of a 428

Marko,
you wrote "it sounds to me like you have the
makings of a 428!"
Yep, I thought about it but after seeing Azie's
mention that he'd bored into the water jackets
on a couple of blocks, I decided not to risk a
perfectly good 390. I did have a 428 in a '69
Cougar and wow!, could that thing go! I've
been keeping my eyes open for a good 428
block but was thinking that I might just build up
what I already have... until I get serious about
a 428 again.
As for hunting, fishing, tipping, etc., I used to do
that stuff but am too busy raising a 3 yr.-old now.
With SWMBO working nights, that leaves little
time for play. But I'll get back to it eventually.
Give me a shout if you get up this way. It'd be
nice to put some faces with all the names on
the list. Thanks.

Tim in Anchorage
'67 F-100
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:45:49 -0700
From: "K. Moulton"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes

Help! I just purchased this gorgeous '66 Ford F-100 Custom Cab w/ 71K
original miles for $500... pocket change! I am seriously stoked about
this one, she's been the total object of my obsession since I got her.
First day, I dug into the ol' Chilton's to cross-reference the engine
code, etc, and have been puzzled ever since. The book says the VIN
plate is under the hood, on the cowl. Not. It's on the inside edge of
the driver's door. Next, I have an engine code "Y" but according to the
book, "Y" wasn' t even produced until 1970! Uh, OK, so I start looking
for casting numbers on the block. Zilch. Nada. Then today, I'm
scraping around all annoyed, and on the front of the driver's side head,
here's a one-inch tall number.... 352. Engine size? Have never found
CID stamped on an engine before, but I'm up for finding new things...
that's why I like old trucks :) Howcome my VIN plate says "Y?" And I
need info about parts interchangeability between 351, 352, 360, 361, 390
and 391... just the basic things, intake, exhaust, heads, starter for
now... it'll be awhile before I can take the truck out of use long
enough to do any rebuilding. Also, if anyone has a windshield for this
baby, I'd be interested in where, condition and price :)

Thanks,
Kathy



== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 01:09:32 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 VIN's and Engine Codes

K. Moulton wrote:
>
> Help! I just purchased this gorgeous '66 Ford F-100 Custom Cab w/ 71K
> original miles for $500... pocket change! I am seriously stoked about
> this one, she's been the total object of my obsession since I got her.
> First day, I dug into the ol' Chilton's to cross-reference the engine
> code, etc, and have been puzzled ever since. The book says the VIN
> plate is under the hood, on the cowl. Not. It's on the inside edge of
> the driver's door. Next, I have an engine code "Y" but according to the
> book, "Y" wasn' t even produced until 1970! Uh, OK, so I start looking
> for casting numbers on the block. Zilch. Nada. Then today, I'm
> scraping around all annoyed, and on the front of the driver's side head,
> here's a one-inch tall number.... 352. Engine size? Have never found
> CID stamped on an engine before, but I'm up for finding new things...
> that's why I like old trucks :) Howcome my VIN plate says "Y?" And I
> need info about parts interchangeability between 351, 352, 360, 361, 390
> and 391... just the basic things, intake, exhaust, heads, starter for
> now... it'll be awhile before I can take the truck out of use long
> enough to do any rebuilding. Also, if anyone has a windshield for this
> baby, I'd be interested in where, condition and price :)
>
> Thanks,
> Kathy
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

The "352" you see on the front of the block was the first displacement
the FE series was produced. When Ford enlarged the displacement later
on, they didn't bother to remove the "352" from the mold. Some blocks
have "105" upside down and backward-this indicates a heavy duty block.
Look below the cylinder head on the passenger side of the block for the
block casting number. Be cautious interpreting the casting number-Ford
used some casting numbers for different displacements.
As for parts interchangability, may I recommend an excellent book. "How
to rebuild big block ford engines" by Steve Christ. It is published by
HPBooks. If your heads are 65 or prior, they have a tall intake
port-2.14"x1.16" compared to 66 and later heads 1.85" or 1.75" x 1.16".
Otherwise, all FE heads should interchange. Note-427 heads have large
valves and will not fit-the valves will hit the cylinder wall. Intakes
are the same as heads-early ones have the large port and later have the
smaller port. Exhaust and starters are all the same except for some 428
car manifolds. They have three bolts per port. By the way, the cylinder
head casting numbers are between the center two spark plugs. The numbers
are arranged diagonaly. / \ like this. The first number would be
something like C6AE AA. The second( if it's there) would be 6090. This
particular casting number is for 66-67 352,390,410,428 without air. If....


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