61-79-list-digest Saturday, May 8 1999 Volume 03 : Number 156



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - 400 cubic inches ...
FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor Shear Pin
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 cubic inches ...
Re: FTE 61-79 -Total vehical list
FTE 61-79 - Manual Steering Gearbox
FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Air Products (was Underdash AC)
FTE 61-79 - '79 Crewcab
FTE 61-79 - Crewcab
FTE 61-79 - 78 Shifter Boot
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 Shifter Boot
FTE 61-79 - Pin shear
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Air Products (was Underdash AC)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Air Products (was Underdash AC)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor Shear Pin
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4
FTE 61-79 - hot wire
FTE 61-79 - Underdash AC
Re: FTE 61-79 - hot wire
Re: FTE 61-79 -Total vehical list
Re: FTE 61-79 -Total vehical list
RE: FTE 61-79 - Looking for brake drums
FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem
FTE 61-79 - air conditioner ice up / 400 dually
Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor Shear Pin
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4
Re: FTE 61-79 - hot wire
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem
FTE 61-79 - sagging springs
Re: FTE 61-79 - hot wire
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem
FTE 61-79 - 460 distributor problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem
FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD 429cu/NP435
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 06:24:48 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400 cubic inches ...

>>1984 Chevy 1ton Dule 12' flatbed, 400ci 4spd.
>
>Yo Dudes:
>
>An M-block in a Ch*vy!! Now that's cooool....

Well, actually, this *could* be factory stock.
At different times, Ford, Chrysler, and GM
all made their own versions of the 400 cid
engine. Its an intriguing thought though ...
Is this particular one actually a Ford 400M ?



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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 07:58:11 EDT
From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4

I have found a few 1973-1979 Crew Cabs for sale.....unfortunately most are
2wd. I live in New Jersey and have found a guy in Colfax, CA that has 2 for
sale. One was sold as soon as I called (a 79 F-250 4x4), the other is
missing a motor & hood. The one with the missing motor & hood is what he is
sending me pictures of. He sent me pictures of it, but they were not "good"
pictures of under the cab & doors (Usual places for rust to hide). I sent
him 4 rolls of film, and I hope to get them back soon. If I don't buy it,
I'll post it to the list. The guy is selling the 1978 F-350 2wd Crew Cab for
$1000.00. The shipping to New Jersey is going to cost $1450.00 if I decide
to buy it. Well...let me know if anyone is interested

PS...He also has a 1969ish looking crew cab 2wd for sale for $500.00
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 05:23:54 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor Shear Pin

Do you have the right gear?
Did you buy a peticular camshaft that might require a diffrent
distributor gear?

"George W. Selby, III" wrote:
>
> My shear/drive pin in my 78 F-150 has broken twice in the past 1000 miles.
> The first time there was a piece of gasket stuck in the oil pump, but I
> flushed it out, and replaced the oil pump with a new one. Now last week
> the same thing happened. Any solutions or am I just goint to have to carry
> around a few of these things at all times? The engine was rebuilt about
> 30k miles ago, and has a Edelbrock Performer carb, intake, cam, and it also
> has Hedman headers. Runs great when pin is not broke, runs terrible or not
> at all w/o it.
>
> George
>
> 78 F-150 400, 4 on floor, 4x4
>
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 05:26:04 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4

You know the hard part is finding them, the harder part is getting parts
for em...

(1974 Crew Cab 4x4) (rusty, sigh)

FORDTRKNUT aol.com wrote:
>
> I have found a few 1973-1979 Crew Cabs for sale.....unfortunately most are
> 2wd. I live in New Jersey and have found a guy in Colfax, CA that has 2 for
> sale. One was sold as soon as I called (a 79 F-250 4x4), the other is
> missing a motor & hood. The one with the missing motor & hood is what he is
> sending me pictures of. He sent me pictures of it, but they were not "good"
> pictures of under the cab & doors (Usual places for rust to hide). I sent
> him 4 rolls of film, and I hope to get them back soon. If I don't buy it,
> I'll post it to the list. The guy is selling the 1978 F-350 2wd Crew Cab for
> $1000.00. The shipping to New Jersey is going to cost $1450.00 if I decide
> to buy it. Well...let me know if anyone is interested
>
> PS...He also has a 1969ish looking crew cab 2wd for sale for $500.00
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 08:25:53 EDT
From: Ftcssdv aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4

Hi all this is my first post...why all the interest in crew cabs may i ask???

Connecticut 78 F150 4wd Ranger (plow truck and daily driver) 351m?(never
really looked if its an m)
Ps . im looking for some door hinges (both sides ) and a new bed?, also
interested in any spare parts out there for a similar year /style truck (i
like to keep em on hand just in case) and finally...i know this sounds
stupid, but ive done a ton of stuff to this truck, and i consider myself
fairly competent mechanically speaking, but i cannott for the life of me find
the oil pressure sending unit on my truck(im trying to fix the oil pressure
guage)
Thanks in advance
Matt
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 05:33:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 cubic inches ...

400ci small block GM is in the Chev





- ---Serian wrote:
>
> >>1984 Chevy 1ton Dule 12' flatbed, 400ci 4spd.
> >
> >Yo Dudes:
> >
> >An M-block in a Ch*vy!! Now that's cooool....
>
> Well, actually, this *could* be factory stock.
> At different times, Ford, Chrysler, and GM
> all made their own versions of the 400 cid
> engine. Its an intriguing thought though ...
> Is this particular one actually a Ford 400M ?
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 05:38:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -Total vehical list

It's 1972, it is hard to type with one hand in a cast.




- ---Pat Brown wrote:
>
> Tony danced on his keyboard and came up with:
>
> > Hey ladies and gentalmen,
> > I figured I would tell you all the vehicals I own
> > at this time,
> > 1772 F250 4x4 shortbox RANGER (MUD TOY) just
rebuilt
> ^^^^
>
> Wow! That's one old truck! Musthave been 'ol granpa
> George Washington Ford's original ride across the
> Potomac! I wonder if it had any y1.8k, or y1.9k
> problems?
> --
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:11:12 -0400
From: "Parsons, Raymond"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Manual Steering Gearbox

I would like to know if a manual steering gearbox 70-73 is a direct
replacement for a 67. I have access to rebuilt 70-73 gearboxes but need to
know if it is the same as my 67. Thanks,
Ray
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 06:50:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Air Products (was Underdash AC)

John,

Do you have a phone # or address for Old Air Products.. I have a '64
F100 here in San Antonio that is begging for AC (or is that me I hear
whinning?)...

Thanks,

Bill in Texas
'64 F100 Shortbox (351W/C4)

>
> Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:22:02 -0500
> From: "John R. Austin"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Under dash air conditioners
>
> Last year I put an underdash A/C in my '67 F100. Got it from Old Air
> Products in Fort Worth. Works well. Cost about $800.
>

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:51:38 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '79 Crewcab

Michael K. writes(actually I think it is Mrs. Michael) : >>Does this sound like
a good deal to you??

Not necessarily a "Bad" deal, but no bargain. Perhaps a "Good" deal, if you
have the time to and knowledge to reassemble and paint. I consider myself
better than average mechanically and diagnostically,(of the years covered by
this list) but I'm not much on Body work. I can assemble the '73-'79 Ford
trucks in my sleep, but I'm 62 years old and have set behind a desk for the last
25 years so my body hurts too much if I try to do more than it is capable of in
any day, and I do that on a nearly every weekend basis. I have three projects
going right now, and don't need another project of that magnitude.

Good luck with your '79.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:59:02 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Crewcab

Well michael!!!! From these Posts, I would say you got a good deal - least
from two(2) other folks perspective. It all depends on the viewpoint and the
person, I guess.

>>>At 04:00 PM 5/6/99 -0800, you wrote:
>>yes it does.... care to sell it for $4,500 ????? :-)
>
>I'll go $4600.........
>
>> Just bought a 79 F250
>>>4x4 crew cab for $4000.00.
>snippage
>>>Does this sound like a good deal to you??

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 10:01:00 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 Shifter Boot

Hey Tony,

It is for the transmission......

CJ
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 07:11:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 Shifter Boot

The new shifter boot I just got for my 72 F250 is
about the size you are looking for, so try ordering
the boot for an older truck and mabe you will get one
the rite size.

Tony




- ---BDIJXS aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey Tony,
>
> It is for the transmission......
>
> CJ
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 10:32:02 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pin shear

George writes: >>Runs great when pin is not broke, runs terrible or not
at all w/o it.

Be glad it stops. That same pin drives the oilpump, and if you have no oil and
run it very far, then you'll shortly have a seized up engine - or a thrown rod.
Anyway its B A A A D...

You're likely getting junk in the oilpump as before. Sounds like it wasn't
flushed properly after the rebuild or that your screen on the pickup tube is
missing or has larger than normal openings to keep the junk out of the pump.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 10:32:59 -0400
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Air Products (was Underdash AC)

At 06:50 AM 5/7/99 -0700, you wrote:
>John,
>
>Do you have a phone # or address for Old Air Products.. I have a '64
>F100 here in San Antonio that is begging for AC (or is that me I hear
>whinning?)...
>

On the underdash AC thread.
Last year at Pigeon Forge a Company named Rainbow Products had a booth.
They had complete underdash systems for all year Ford trucks. They said
they custom made the compressor bracket for each system to fit your year
model/engine. It was a 17,000 BTU unit and they quoted a price of $550 and
19.00 shipping anywhere in U.S.(don't remember if this was regular price or
"show" price). They're out of N. Carolina somewhere. I kept their card
somewhere, if you're interested I'll look it up a give the phone # and
address. They may be back at the SuperNationals next week as well.

Stoney

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:48:45 -0500
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Air Products (was Underdash AC)

How about a Web Site? http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.oldairproducts.com


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bill
To:
Sent: Friday, May 07, 1999 8:50 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Air Products (was Underdash AC)


> John,
>
> Do you have a phone # or address for Old Air Products.. I have a '64
> F100 here in San Antonio that is begging for AC (or is that me I hear
> whinning?)...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill in Texas
> '64 F100 Shortbox (351W/C4)
>
> >
> > Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:22:02 -0500
> > From: "John R. Austin"
> > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Under dash air conditioners
> >
> > Last year I put an underdash A/C in my '67 F100. Got it from Old Air
> > Products in Fort Worth. Works well. Cost about $800.
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> >
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:19:55 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor Shear Pin

>The first time there was a piece of
>gasket stuck in the oil pump, but I
>flushed it out, and replaced the oil
>pump with a new one. Now last week
>the same thing happened.
>snip
>The engine was rebuilt about
>30k miles ago

Yo George:

This isn't a "high volume" oil pump, is it? If so, that could be your problem.
Try switching to the "standard" type oil pump (puts a lot less strain on the
distributor drive gear).

If your oil pump is not the "high volume" type, try Azie's suggestions. Sounds
like it could be something not done right in the bottom end. I can't think of
any other reason for having part of a gasket stuck in the pump. Maybe there was
some crud left in an oil passage somewhere in the block and running the engine
now is flushing that stuff out?

Good luck w/ your truck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:25:12 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4

>Connecticut 78 F150 4wd Ranger (plow
>truck and daily driver) 351m?(never
>really looked if its an m)
>snip
>i cannott for the life of me find the oil
>pressure sending unit on my truck(im
>trying to fix the oil pressure guage)

Yo Matt:

If your truck has an M-block V8 (351M/400), the oil pressure sending unit is on
the top of the block at the back, behind the intake manifold. You'll probably
have to take off the air cleaner and climb up on top of the engine to see it.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 11:47:30 EDT
From: KAKneeland aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hot wire

What do you guys make of this...I was tracing back an electrical problem I
was having with my instrument gauge's voltage regulator on my 71 Bronco w/302
and I found a main power wire going back to my alternator that was very, very
warm. I separated it out, and have it looped around my T-shifter (just to
try and give it as much cool air as I can) for now, but I can't figure out
why it's getting so warm. Any opinions you all might have I would really
appreciate. Thanks all.

Deputy
KAKneeland aol.com
Salem, OR
71 EB w/302
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 10:12:53 -0700
From: "Bryan Kirking"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Underdash AC

>Do you have a phone # or address for Old Air Products.. I have a '64
>F100 here in San Antonio
>

>Company named Rainbow Products had a booth.

There are several places to get AC systems. Old Air (in DFW), Carolina Classics listed one in my (old) catalogue, JCW lists some, and right there with you in San Antonio is Vintage Air.

Be a little careful in looking at these systems as some places list only the price of the "inside" unit as if everyone has a compressor, condensor, dryer, and brackets already laying around. Also, having the system evacuated and charged is not cheap unless you happpen to have a good friend with the equipment, or are willing to drive to the place you bought your unit. (Which would also allow for a final inspection by them?)


Be careful of the clearance between the shift stick and the under dash unit. I was a little concerned about that dimension when I looked at underdash units.

DIY installation of an AC is not hard (at least, my installation of my unit from OLD AIR wasn't). I did have a devil of a time finding the right brackets for my FE (BTW all external components are not direct bolt on for all FE's). Also I did not have the capillary tube in properly, but that appears to be fixed now.

I am of course happy to respond to questions about putting the unit in or my experiences so far with old air and their product (which seems to be a good product).


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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 10:43:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - hot wire

Deputy wrote:

> What do you guys make of this...I was tracing back an electrical problem I
> was having with my instrument gauge's voltage regulator on my 71 Bronco w/302
> and I found a main power wire going back to my alternator that was very, very
> warm. I separated it out, and have it looped around my T-shifter (just to
> try and give it as much cool air as I can) for now, but I can't figure out
> why it's getting so warm. Any opinions you all might have I would really
> appreciate. Thanks all.
>

Well, two things can cause heat in a wire: Too much current, or
too much resistance. Have you added any high-current accessories
(big lights, kilo-watt stereos, etc?). If so, you may want to
move the power tap point closer to the battery. You can also pick
up an inductive ammeter, these are magnetically coupled to the
wire (just lay it next to the wire) to get a current reading.
Too much resistance can be caused by splices or undersized wire.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 10:50:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -Total vehical list

Tony replied:
> It's 1972, it is hard to type with one hand in a cast.

I'm sorry Tony. I was just poking a little fun at your
(obvious) typo. I hope your hand heals well.

[George Edsel Washington Ford's 1772 F-250 snipped]
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 12:18:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -Total vehical list

Pat,
No problem, the doc says that I should get the cast
off in a 3 weeks or so, I only busted my hand in two
places working on the 1950 Chevy bodyed Ford 4x4 that
now has a 490ci in it, turing the installation the
hrydrolic jack on the cherrie picker gaveway putting
my left hand between the bluck and the frame rail on
the passenger side og the truck. but I found out
sompthing, Not to do that again, it hurt!

Tony






_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 14:14:13 -0600
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Looking for brake drums

I am interested in the drums maybe.....I think I can find him some out
here,,,,,where are you?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Carnuck webtv.net [mailto:Carnuck webtv.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 5:38 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Looking for brake drums


My handicapped friend has a '79 Ford E350 Super van. He's looking for
rear brake drums for it. It has single rear wheels and the drums are 12"
x 3". He bought a pair from one with duals, but they won't work, and the
guy wouldn't give his money back. Ones off a '77-'80 F350 will work too
(maybe newer). Anyone that knows of some, please let me know, or if
you're interested in the other drums too.

Jim Blair, Seattle WA 1983 Cherokee 4 dr 4.2L six, 999 AT, Manual hubs
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html FREE Online
Photo Album: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998&Auth=false

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 16:22:46 EDT
From: MJCETripp aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem

Hello!
I wrote about this problem a bit ago, and made the changes everyone sugested.

here's what is happening.

I rebuilt a 460 for my 79 bronco. Fired it up, broke in the cam, drove it a
bit and it ate the distributor gear that mates to the cam. Everyone figured
it was the high volume oil pump so I changed that to a stock volume/presure
unit. When changing the pump I inspected the cam which now had bad gear
teeth so I replaced it with a Comp Cams 4X4 Xtreme with .505 int, .515 exh
gross lift. Duration .050 .218int .226 exh. I used their valve springs.
The cam bearings are still good and lined up. New double roller t-chain and
gears. Straight 30wt non-detergent oil recomended by the piston ring
manufacturer for break in. Before I rebuilt the block I had it tanked.

Well I fired it up, broke in the cam, and drove it from my friends garage to
my house 12 miles away. Checked the distributor gear and it's eaten 1/16
inch into the gear.


What am I missing??????????? Do I need to drill out the oil valley plug
above the distributor gear so it oils it better? I'm at my witts end to what
is wrong. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.

Matt T

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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 15:23:13 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - air conditioner ice up / 400 dually

I don't know, Bryan. I am a little preturbed over this entire situation. I
seem to remember a little hostility from down towards the coast because I
had air last summer and you didn't! This summer it looks like the tables
have turned. You're cold and I'm the one sweatin' to the oldies. :-)

I generally use strip caulk around the capillary tube and the cracks where
the pipes go into the evaporator housing. Original installs come with foam
or some kind of caulk that hardens and can't be reused. The strip caulk can
be found at home improvement stores like Lowe's or Home Depot. The
capillary tube is actually a thermocouple in disguise. At the moment I am
brain dead. Too late on a Friday afternoon to remember how it works
exactly. On older R12 systems, you should get condensation on your cold
pipe but not ice. I have seen some systems get real cold and make plenty of
ice. When the ice fell off, my dad and I thought someone had broken some
glass. On later model systems, both pipes are supposed to have the same
temperature if the R12 charge is correct. The only way to accurately charge
a system is to use a set of guages and charge it to the manufacturer's
specs.

BTW, on a different subject, that 400 in the dually might be a big block.
GM marketed the same engine as a 396, 400, and 402 depending on what it was
in and the year.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 17:47:23 EDT
From: MongoCaver aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor Shear Pin

In a message dated 5/7/99 0:43:21 AM CST, IsuzuG prodigy.net writes:


The first time there was a piece of gasket stuck in the oil pump, but I
flushed it out, and replaced the oil pump with a new one. Now last week
the same thing happened. Any solutions or am I just goint to have to carry
around a few of these things at all times? The engine was rebuilt about
30k miles ago, and has a Edelbrock Performer carb, intake, cam, and it also
has Hedman headers. Runs great when pin is not broke, runs terrible or not
at all w/o it.

George

78 F-150 400, 4 on floor, 4x4
>>
When it was rebuilt was there any headwork done? Specifically were the valve
seals replaced? If not they can get hard and start to crumble. The pieces
will wash down in the pan and if your oil pump screen is not perfect or you
get enough small pieces thru it, it will exert just enough pressure to sheer
the pin. I had a 400 that I precisely rebuilt the short block in, reuse the
heads that had only 40000 miles on them. I ran into this exact problem.
Nothing like being 75 minutes from the nearest highway, with your distributor
pin sheared and your timing off by 20 degrees.
If you can't take the time to drop the pan right now, you can put in a new
roll pin then put another smaller diameter and slightly shorter pin inside
the first pin. A dab of JB Weld in the each end of the first pin as insurance
against the second pin coming out is also a good idea.
James
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 18:21:56 EDT
From: Ftcssdv aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78/'79 crewcab 4X4

Thanks Dave, im gonna go look now!
Matt
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 18:23:56 EDT
From: Ftcssdv aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - hot wire

Deputy it could be corroded and on its way to frying id consider replacing it
and make sure its the right guage wire
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 19:15:24 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem

MJCETripp aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello!
> I wrote about this problem a bit ago, and made the changes everyone sugested.
>
> here's what is happening.
>
> I rebuilt a 460 for my 79 bronco. Fired it up, broke in the cam, drove it a
> bit and it ate the distributor gear that mates to the cam. Everyone figured
> it was the high volume oil pump so I changed that to a stock volume/presure
> unit. When changing the pump I inspected the cam which now had bad gear
> teeth so I replaced it with a Comp Cams 4X4 Xtreme with .505 int, .515 exh
> gross lift. Duration .050 .218int .226 exh. I used their valve springs.
> The cam bearings are still good and lined up. New double roller t-chain and
> gears. Straight 30wt non-detergent oil recomended by the piston ring
> manufacturer for break in. Before I rebuilt the block I had it tanked.
>
> Well I fired it up, broke in the cam, and drove it from my friends garage to
> my house 12 miles away. Checked the distributor gear and it's eaten 1/16
> inch into the gear.
>
> What am I missing??????????? Do I need to drill out the oil valley plug
> above the distributor gear so it oils it better? I'm at my witts end to what
> is wrong. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.
>
> Matt T
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
If you had the heads or block surfaced, it would move the distributor
down and closer to the crank. If it moves down too far, the bottom of
the gear could come in contact with the block. On my 390, I have about
.030-.060 clearence between the bottom of the gear and the block.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 17:44:29 -0600
From: Gene Gardner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - sagging springs

Don't know if this thread is still alive but I just put new coil springs on
the front end and the gap between the I-beam and the stop bumpers is now 3
inches. (I had said before the clearance was 6" but that was a typo ...
sorry). By the way, Pat, I haven't left on The Big Trip yet -- should be
hitting the road at the end of May. And, Bill B., no need to apologize for
the mis-posted letter -- it was honest and showed a lot of class. Hope your
wife appreciated it.

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher
70 F100 2WD (300-six)


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 21:45:30 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - hot wire

In a message dated 5/7/99 8:56:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
KAKneeland aol.com writes:


warm. >>
If you have a light instead of an amp meter, is probably the resistor wire
for the light. Or it could be the ignition resistor wire. Did it have any
special covering? Some times the resistor wires have woven covers over what
appears to be a normal heavy duty wire. Anyway if is one of the resistor
wires you do not have a problem.
Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 23:20:47 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem

In a message dated 5/7/99 5:26:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kendrick mddc.com
writes:


> inch into the gear. >>
This distributor is designed to have the gear run on the block as a thrust
bearing. The primary thrust is created by clockwise rotation of the cam gear
thrusting the distributor gear down. If the gear is sitting on the block as
it should and the shaft is in the hole in the block the alignment with the
cam gear will be proper. The distributor shaft being just a little too short
could hold the gear up and the resulting misalignment could cause excessive
wear. Is there anything on the block or distributor housing that would
prevent the housing from going in and seating firming. Should only be one
gasket. Another quick check would be to ensure there is up and down movement
of the distributor shaft in the housing, should not exceed .035". If all of
the above is no concern let's look for clues. Can you describe what this
gross 1/16 inch deep wear pattern looks like. Looking at the distributor
gear is the wear even from top to bottom; is there more wear at the top or
bottom; or is the wear pretty much in the middle and is that wear deeper in
the middle?? Does the wear go in toward the root of the distributor gear
teeth or is it out close to the outer edge of the teeth. Is the distributor
gear wear area smooth, pitted, or gouged? The question on where the wear is
could disclose an alignment problem. If the wear area is gouged and grooved
then the metal is actually melting (galling) on the surface, due to too much
force being applied. (something not turning freely). I suppose lack of oil
could do the same.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F250 4x4 460
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 22:51:23 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 distributor problem

If this is the case, shimming up the distributor would take care of the
problem. Parts stores sell shims for C$%# "s, but I'm not sure where you
can find some for your 460.
Jason
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 22:59:58 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 Distributor problem

SHill48337 aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 5/7/99 5:26:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kendrick mddc.com
> writes:
>
>
> > inch into the gear. >>
> This distributor is designed to have the gear run on the block as a thrust
> bearing. The primary thrust is created by clockwise rotation of the cam gear
> thrusting the distributor gear down. If the gear is sitting on the block as
> it should and the shaft is in the hole in the block the alignment with the
> cam gear will be proper. The distributor shaft being just a little too short
> could hold the gear up and the resulting misalignment could cause excessive
> wear. Is there anything on the block or distributor housing that would
> prevent the housing from going in and seating firming. Should only be one
> gasket. Another quick check would be to ensure there is up and down movement
> of the distributor shaft in the housing, should not exceed .035". If all of
> the above is no concern let's look for clues. Can you describe what this
> gross 1/16 inch deep wear pattern looks like. Looking at the distributor
> gear is the wear even from top to bottom; is there more wear at the top or
> bottom; or is the wear pretty much in the middle and is that wear deeper in
> the middle?? Does the wear go in toward the root of the distributor gear
> teeth or is it out close to the outer edge of the teeth. Is the distributor
> gear wear area smooth, pitted, or gouged? The question on where the wear is
> could disclose an alignment problem. If the wear area is gouged and grooved
> then the metal is actually melting (galling) on the surface, due to too much
> force being applied. (something not turning freely). I suppose lack of oil
> could do the same.
> Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F250 4x4 460
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
Burt, how right you are! I completely forgot about the block as a thrust
surface! Still, if the heads or deck has been surfaced, the distributor
might need shimed.
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 00:36:30 EDT
From: JefriHansn aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD 429cu/NP435

I've written about this before and got some great responses - most
turns out were right on the nose - even tough I suspected it but didn't want
to beleave it. That was my terrible vibration at 2000rpm, which smoothed at
about 2200. Hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd, had to come to a complete stop to
down shift from 3rd to 2nd. Finally got around to pulling the transfer case
(NP205) and tranny out yesterday. Looking at the clutch, it was obviously a
good 3/32 - 1/8 inch off center. I took the front of the tranny off to look
at the input shaft bearing (as someone suggested was gone) - "looks" fine.
There is however "some" sloop in the shaft at the forward end. Guy at the
shop I'm doing this at says this is normal. I'm not so sure. The teeth on
the input shaft gear come up to a sharp point and are obviously worn, unlike
all the others that come up to a flat point.
Another thing that I found was - This thing has no pilot bearing - at
least not like one I've ever seen before. The one in my "86 T-Bird is a
needle bearing. This thing is just a round piece of brass looking metal -
that fits over the input shaft WITH ABOUT A 1/16 - 3/32" OF PLAY ALL THE WAY
AROUND! NEITHER the input shaft end, nor the "pilot bearing" have any signs
of wear. This has me perplexed. The guy I bought this truck from said he
had a dickens of a time finding a flywheel/clutch combination to match this
motor (from a 68 T-Bird) to this tranny, via a L&L bellhousing. Ended up
with NAPA parts.
I'm wondering if he didn't get something wrong, or if the bearing
just wore out long ago and the input shaft bearing has just finally gave out
holding the clutch up.
I suspose some of you would, but you wouldn't beleave the things I
found taking this all apart. I thought I had given the truck a good once,
twice over with all I've had to do to it since I bought it. But I hadn't.
It always seemed to have some flex in the frame whenever I would start.
Looked the frame over - no cracks or missing bolts - no missing bolts, but
the four holding the top of the transmission cross member to the frame....

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