61-79-list-digest Thursday, May 6 1999 Volume 03 : Number 153



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Re:'65 progress!! (alternator and ammeter)
FTE 61-79 - Cam ID ,stuck pistons
Re: FTE 61-79 - wanted 78-79 f250 4x4 ext cab/crew cab
FTE 61-79 - A/C air warming up
FTE 61-79 - Intro
FTE 61-79 - Sensoring
FTE 61-79 - AC Vent Temperatures
FTE 61-79 - A/C problems
FTE 61-79 - "78/'79 crewcab 4X4
FTE 61-79 - pto
Re: FTE 61-79 - AC Vent Temperatures
Re: FTE 61-79 - pto
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360
FTE 61-79 - questionable timing chain
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
FTE 61-79 - Dave R. Christens another M-Block
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
RE: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dave R. Christens another M-Block
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
RE: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sensoring
FTE 61-79 - RE: Cam ID
FTE 61-79 - 335 series intake manifold was: How to identify the year of a Ford 360
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dave R. Christens another M-Block
FTE 61-79 - Re: sagging springs
Re: FTE 61-79 - 335 series intake manifold was: How to identify the year of a Ford 360
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: sagging springs
FTE 61-79 - F5 in Maryland
FTE 61-79 - 1968 F100 cab mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dave R. Christens another M-Block
FTE 61-79 - Voltmeter or Ammeter??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine and Tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sensoring
FTE 61-79 - Whatsatruckworth?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1968 F100 cab mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - wanted 78-79 f250 4x4 ext cab/crew cab
Re: FTE 61-79 - "78/'79 crewcab 4X4
Re: FTE 61-79 - pto

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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 05:10:34 PDT
From: "eldon eversull"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:'65 progress!! (alternator and ammeter)

Sam wrote:
>>The amp gauge constantly reads slightly negative. this may be >>related to
>>our battery going dead all the time.
>>Could it be that the alt. isn't charging.

My battery was going dead all the time and I thought about the alternator,
but a friend told me that if the engine continued to run with the battery
disconnected, the alternator works. I have a knife switch on my battery to
stop the drain, so this was easy to check and yes, Fred kept running.

>>There are two wires going to the amp gauge, black , and black w/ >>green.
>>Does anybody know which wire goes where?

I don't know. I added an aftermarket amp gauge that had no instructions to
my one wire Delco Remy alternator. Hook the wires up one way and constant
discharge, switch the wires and charge, so that was my fix.

Jerry wrote:
>>I checked my handy dandy CAT Engine Installation & Service Handbook >>and
>>found that 1 Gallon US is equivalent to 231 Cubic inches. So the >>fuel
>>tank, with the dimensions of 29x11x12 would equal about 16.5 >>gal.

Thanks for the info.

I would like to hear how the addition of the fuel cell from a 1970 Mustang
works out for you, WEDIVE247 aol.com. TIA.
I have a hitch that would make the opening in the bumper hard to do. I kind
of like the hitch, I think it puts a little fear into all the H*ndas that
follow a little to closely.
Eldon, 1964 F100.


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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 07:24:04 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cam ID ,stuck pistons

> in big time, I managed to get one out and found C7AE-B
> con rods (427/428 yahoo)

The only difference between the 390/410/428 and 427 LR 428CJ & PI rods
are that the 390/410/428 rods have 3/8 bolts, and the 428CJ/427LR ones
have 13/32 bolts. Forging wise they are the same rod. Some of the
numbers match, but not all. Functionally they are the same. You can
resize 390 rods to fit the 13/32 bolts if you want. Believe me, alot of
over priced "CJ" rods have "materialized" from the core heap. Sad, but
true.

There were some 428SCJ's that used the same rod as the 427MR/HR. It was
the Lemans rod with a 7/16 tri-lobe capscrew. It was a tough rod, but
the poorer bolt metals available back then caused more than a few
failures when running over 7000 rpms. Now that the bolts have caught
up, these rods are still consided by many to be the top dog for FE
racing.

IMHO though, the Lemans rods are too valuable and should be saved for
restorations. The standard 390 rod with good bolts will give good
service for anything but all out racing, 6000-6500 rpms & 500 hp,
provided that sufficient oil is provided to the crank. If I needed more
than that I'd use aftermarket rods.

The cam is harder to identify. I couldn't find it in my catalogs, so
it's likely an older grind. It would be an RV cam, I'm guessing from the
252H12 designation.
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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 05:58:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - wanted 78-79 f250 4x4 ext cab/crew cab

Jeff

Is a 1977 F250 4x4 good enughf for you?
Texas


- -
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 09:13:47 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A/C air warming up

Bryan writes: >>However, after driving for about 5 or 10 minutes, the
temperature at the same vent begins to slowly increase. After about 20 or 25
minutes, the vent temperature will be in the low 50's! (Outside temp in the
upper 70s).

Sounds as if the evaporator is freezing up, or you have insufficient freon(?) in
the system to maintain a constant flow through the system. Do you also
experience a reduction in airflow volume as well as it being warm??? If the
volume of air coming out seems less forceful, it is probably freezing up, but if
the volume of air is good, just warm, then I suspect that the system has
insufficient freon(?) in it.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 08:09:32 -0500
From: "Corey Johnson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Intro

Just thought I'd say Hi. I have a '66 F100 Custom that I bought in '93,
drove for about 2 years till I could not afford the gas (5mpg) and
oil(1qt/wk) anymore.
Well last week I finished rebuilding that 352 and am awaiting my
insurance card so I can make it legal...
Boy does it sound like a beast now!

Any ways I am on the lookout for some parts and wiring tips and
anything else I might need.
I am by far not a real mechanic, but was raised by a certified GM man
that owned only Fords that I learned on...



'84 VF700C
'66 F100 Custom


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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 09:22:49 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sensoring

Pat B. writes: >>Oh, Oh, Azie. Hang on to your hat. Marko's coming, and he's
mumbling something about insufficient censoring of GM terms on this list .

It's tough getting O L D... Forget to do all kinds of things. Maybe Marko(and
others) will forgive me. P L E A S E Marko???

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 06:22:08 -0700
From: "Bryan Kirking"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AC Vent Temperatures

Yesterday before leaving work, I repositioned the capilary tube that goes to the thermostat control so that the tube sat farther into the coil. Since this, the unit does not ice at any of the places that I can check, but the vent temps are still creeping up to the low 50's (with 70 - 80 degree outside air temp).

Hasn't anybody else on the list ever measured their AC temps? If a few of ya'll are game, this would be an interesting little faq especially for the R12 vs R134a postings that come up about every 2 to 3 months.


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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 09:38:17 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A/C problems

Bryan writes: >>There was some ice along the bottom of the coil this morning.
There is a capillary tube attached to a rheostat that enters the coil about 2
inches above the bottom. Perhaps this is incorrectly positioned or not
functioning properly? I take it that ice on the coil fins is bad? As far as
the charge volume, I went by manufacturer's specs (hi side pressure = 2*ambient
temp + 15%. If anything, I expect I am below that.

Could be that the hi/low -pressure switch(at the expansion valve) is not
functioning properly also. (I forgot this earlier). It controlls the on/off
relationship of the compressor with the temperature setting. If it doesn't cut
the compressor off, then it will freeze up in the evaop coil, and if it leaves
the compressor off too long, it will not be cold enough in the evap coil. You
can test this by Jumpering across it with a small piece of wire. You might also
check to see if the compressor is really turning(clutch engaged) when the warm
air starts to come out after cold air. This would help to determine the
previous condition also. If it is still turning while getting warm air out the
duct, then check for icing of the return hose and the evap coil. If it is not
turning, then this indicates either a low charge of freon(?) or a defective
switch(at the expansion valve)..

Hope this helps.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 09:50:14 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - "78/'79 crewcab 4X4

Jeff Grant writes: >>i need to find a fairly nice and dependable 78-79
f250 4x4 king cab or crew cab, preferably in the southeast.

Yo Jeff.
Half the people in the Free World are looking for one of these. I've been on
the lookout for one for 5 or so years. Haven't had much luck. I've found a
few, but all were waaaay overpriced imho, for what they had. All were pretty
well beat up or rusted out or both.
Good luck, but if you happen to run across two of them, keep me in mind for the
one you don't choose, please.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 07:18:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Nick Jessee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pto

I have a 77 250 4x4 and i was wondering about a winch im between the
milemarker hydralic and a pto winch does anyone have any ideas where i
can find a pto winch and what are the pros/cons of a pto winch.......Im
a machinist so special parts/brackets are a piece of cake
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 09:24:12 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AC Vent Temperatures

>Hasn't anybody else on the list ever measured their AC temps? If a few of
>ya'll are game, this would be an interesting little faq especially for the
>R12 vs R134a postings that come up about every 2 to 3 months.
>

We had an Olds that we had a friend work on the A/C of ... we threw a
thermometer into the vent, it got down below 40, probably 36 to 38 I think
... it stayed there while he checked for leaks and everything ... no
problems with it ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 09:25:52 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - pto

>I have a 77 250 4x4 and i was wondering about a winch im between the
>milemarker hydralic and a pto winch does anyone have any ideas where i
>can find a pto winch and what are the pros/cons of a pto winch.......Im
>a machinist so special parts/brackets are a piece of cake

There was a discussion of this a while ago on the off-road list, you might
check the archives ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 07:30:49 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360

> >Yo Dennis:
>>
>>It started in the first year of production, 1970, on CA vehicles. Not
>sure when
>>it started elsewhere. I believe all OEM factory 351C intake manifolds
>have the
>>Thermactor provision. If it's blocked off, there'll be a big pipe
>threaded plug
>>(about an inch across the top) on top of the manifold, just in front of
>the #1
>>cylinder intake runner on the right front.

OK--I think I located it-passenger side of the manifold--plugged. I would
call it about an inch in diameter, maybe 3/4 " plug, slightly to the rear
of #1 plug. Now, originally this had a line that went to a pump. Is that
correct? I don't don't why this matters. I just like to know everything I
can about whatever engine I'm running...

I need to see a picture of an original. I had a '71 Torino with a 351C and
I don't recall it having that setup either...




Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 09:26:26 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - questionable timing chain

The easiest way to see if a timing chain is worn is to mark the balancer
at your timing mark with a white marker or crayon so you can see it at
high rpm. Rev the engine to 3000 rpm or so and watch the mark on the
balancer with a timing light. It should stay in the same spot and not
move around. My 390 had a high rpm miss/popping problem. After visiting
a good mechanic, I tried this and the mark would move about half an inch
either way. Tore it apart and found a really sloppy chain!
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 10:59:49 -0400
From: Rob Long
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79

Does anyone know what the distance between the front mounting brackets
for the shocks are on my 78 F250 ? Right now I have 19" and the shocks I
have are too long.... the store I bought them from said that the shock
was the correct shock because that was the only shock made for that
truck. They told me that I should have around 22" between the
brackets.... Does that sound right?


Rob
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Campus/4249


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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 10:15:05 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79

>Does anyone know what the distance between the front mounting brackets
>for the shocks are on my 78 F250 ? Right now I have 19" and the shocks I
>have are too long.... the store I bought them from said that the shock
>was the correct shock because that was the only shock made for that
>truck. They told me that I should have around 22" between the
>brackets.... Does that sound right?
>

Sounds like your front springs are sagging a bit to me ... has anyone done
an engine swap on this truck that might make the front sit lower ?
Otherwise could just be old springs ... might look and see how much "rake"
you have from front to rear, if the rear (empty), is sitting quite a bit
higher, then you've probably got tired springs...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:17:57 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dave R. Christens another M-Block

Well, this 78 resto is moving forward. Got the newly painted cab on a few
weeks ago and just fired up that new 400.....it idles so smooth I can't
believe it. For whatever reason, I've never gotten my 390 to run this smooth,
but it has a bunch of aftermarket stuff (must be a lesson in here somewhere,
eh Stock Man?).....Of course, Dave mumbles something like "well, that's just
how M-Blocks run"......

Anyway, these Ford longblocks (from the dealership) leave a few things out,
like a freeze plug in the front of the passenger side cylinder head that
connects to the exhaust port. When it first fired (D.R. had the timing set
right the first time) we kept trying to figure out what all the noise was. Of
course at that stage, you always wonder if you have a cracked cylinder head
or exhaust manifold or a bad rod or something....anyway, there was about a
1/2" diameter hole, just behind the alternator, that must be for some kind of
sensor or smog deal, anyway, Ford leaves it open (at least this rebuilder
did). Luckily, I had freeze plug to fit and once we got that in and then the
air out of the power steering, it just purrrrred......

There was also another plug left out. This was in the front of the block,
next to the water pump....but I had threaded in a small plug with plenty of
silicone.....

Next step is to get the doors and hood painted.....

CJ








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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 11:29:55 -0400
From: Rob Long
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79

I agree with you about the springs sagging.... there hasn't been any
engine swaps in it. It seems like the back is actually sagging also...
at least it looks like it. I think the bed mounts are bad too.
The front springs are setting level... I think they should be arching
up.... right?
I have made plans to get them re-arched and have a coulple new leaves
put in the hold the arch.
- --
Rob
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Campus/4249


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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:45:22 -0400
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79

> ----------
> From: Rob Long[SMTP:rob_long bigfoot.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:29 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
>
snip
> The front springs are setting level... I think they should be arching
> up.... right?
>
NO. Factory front springs should be flat.


> Rob
>
>
What makes you say that the shocks are too long?



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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 09:55:47 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dave R. Christens another M-Block

>There was also another plug left out.
>This was in the front of the block, next
>to the water pump....but I had threaded
>in a small plug with plenty of silicone.....

Yo Gang:

This is the dipstick hole for car M-blocks. All truck M-blocks (that I've seen)
have the dipstick going in through the oil pan. Apparently some rebuilders
leave this hole open and you have to close it yourself if you put the engine in
a truck.

I've never seen that exhaust port plug taken out (or left out) of a head before.
I've never seen any M-block smog system that would use that port, so I'm
mystified as to its purpose. It's not threaded either, as far as we could tell,
so it doesn't seem like a mounting boss. Good thing it wasn't left out of the
other head (where it would face to the rear of the engine).

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 11:57:40 -0400
From: Rob Long
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79

The shocks are too long because when I went to put them on.... the shock
was fully compressed and only had less than 1" travel distance.

- --
Rob
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Campus/4249


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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 11:20:01 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79

>I agree with you about the springs sagging.... there hasn't been any
>engine swaps in it. It seems like the back is actually sagging also...
>at least it looks like it. I think the bed mounts are bad too.
>The front springs are setting level... I think they should be arching
>up.... right?

Hmmm... I don't really know, I've seen a lot that are arched downward as
stock, supposedly eliminating some of the shock associated with popping the
spring over center I assume, but I'm not sure on that. The newer ones have
them level, but I think the older ones arch up, you'll have to look at some
others or talk with someone who has one. I only have coils on the front,
so I can't help here ... if you check out my homepage you can find a link
to the spring install I did on mine, it shows the before pics of how mine
looked. The other way to tell is if you hit the bump stops a lot ...
measure the distance between the stop and whatever it hits, seems like
pat's was around 2" and should have been 3 or 4 ... not positive on this,
but I think that's what they said ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 13:15:04 -0400
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79

> ----------
> From: Rob Long[SMTP:rob_long bigfoot.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:57 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79
>
> The shocks are too long because when I went to put them on.... the shock
> was fully compressed and only had less than 1" travel distance.
>
> --
> Rob
>
I think you have the wrong shocks. Try another parts house and/or brand of
shock.

Good luck
Tracy

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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 11:16:54 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sensoring

At 09:22 AM 05/05/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Pat B. writes: >>Oh, Oh, Azie. Hang on to your hat. Marko's coming, and he's
>mumbling something about insufficient censoring of GM terms on this list .
>
>It's tough getting O L D... Forget to do all kinds of things. Maybe
Marko(and
>others) will forgive me. P L E A S E Marko???
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>

Azie:

I have taken Stu off red alert, for now....

marko :^]

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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 13:40:13 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Cam ID

I looked in my Performance Automotive Warehouse catalog, (the best for
finding any part, all are listed), and the part number most resembles
Crower Cams. (another CC) the particular grind you have is not listed, but
judging from the nmber 252, and knowing that all crower cams intake
duration is the part number, I'd say you have a very mild 252 degree cam.
Adequate for up to 4500 rpm. If you want to reuse this cam, you will also
have to reuse the lifters.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:43:34 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 335 series intake manifold was: How to identify the year of a Ford 360

>Dennis Pearson
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360
>
>OK--I think I located it-passenger side of the
>manifold--plugged. I would call it about an
>inch in diameter, maybe 3/4 " plug, slightly
>to the rear of #1 plug.

Yo Dennis:

That's it. The hole itself is about 5/8" or maybe 3/4", if the plug has a hex
head, it's about 1" across.

> Now, originally this had a line that went to a
>pump. Is that correct?

The Thermactor (air pump) was mounted on the right side of the engine, usually
near the alternator. Attached to the Thermactor output port was a
vacuum-controlled diverter valve system. On the intake manifold, there was a
check valve on the end of a piece of pipe that threaded into the hole on the
manifold. A hose connected the diverter valve to the check valve.

The diverter valve "dumped" the Thermactor output when under closed throttle
operation (high vacuum signal), mostly to prevent the backfiring that would be
caused by injecting fresh air (O2) into an over-rich hot exhaust gas stream.
Thermactor air was dumped to the atmosphere under the hood, usually through some
type of small filter/muffler apparatus to reduce noise. The (one-way) check
valve attached to the manifold prevented exhaust gas from pushing back upstream
to the diverter valve while allowing air from the Thermactor to be pumped into
the air passage in the manifold.

Just to clarify this design, the Thermactor air passage in the 335 series intake
manifold is completely isolated from the intake runners. It does not put air
into the intake tract at all. Air pumped into the Thermactor passage in the
intake manifold goes into the air injection passages at the ends of the 335
series cylinder heads. The air injection passages in the cylinder heads go
through the heads from the intake side to the exhaust side and open into the
tops of the exhaust ports, just inside the exhaust manifold mating surface.

>I need to see a picture of an original. I had
>a '71 Torino with a 351C and I don't recall
>it having that setup either...

I have only seen this system on a couple 351Cs in Mustangs, and it was years
ago. I'm still not sure when the Ford started using the Thermactor system on
non-CA cars, but I would guess it would be 1972 or so, since that's when they
started retarding cam timing and dropping compression ratios to meet emissions
regs.

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 10:47:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dave R. Christens another M-Block

CJ wrote:
[Fired the new M-block!]
>
> Anyway, these Ford longblocks (from the dealership) leave a few things out,
> like a freeze plug in the front of the passenger side cylinder head that
> connects to the exhaust port. When it first fired (D.R. had the timing set
> right the first time) we kept trying to figure out what all the noise was. Of
> course at that stage, you always wonder if you have a cracked cylinder head
> or exhaust manifold or a bad rod or something....anyway, there was about a
> 1/2" diameter hole, just behind the alternator, that must be for some kind of
> sensor or smog deal, anyway, Ford leaves it open (at least this rebuilder
> did). Luckily, I had freeze plug to fit and once we got that in and then the
> air out of the power steering, it just purrrrred......

Too which Dave replied:

>I've never seen that exhaust port plug taken out (or left out) of a head
> before. I've never seen any M-block smog system that would use that port,
> so I'm mystified as to its purpose. It's not threaded either, as far as
> we could tell, so it doesn't seem like a mounting boss. Good thing it
> wasn't left out of the other head (where it would face to the rear of the
> engine).

On 460's, this is the air pump port, but IIRC they are at both ends
of the heads. I replaced a rather noisy plug :-) on my dads 78 F250,
as I recall the front of both heads are plugged, the rear ports are
connected together with a steel tube which then runs of to the
diverter, etc. The tube is held in with a small flange and single bolt.
- --
Pat Brown
Clear, Sunny, Warm, Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:00:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: sagging springs

wish writes:
> [Somebody's springs are sagging, shocks don't fit]
> >I agree with you about the springs sagging.... there hasn't been any
> >engine swaps in it. It seems like the back is actually sagging also...
> >at least it looks like it. I think the bed mounts are bad too.
> >The front springs are setting level... I think they should be arching
> >up.... right?
>
> Hmmm... I don't really know, I've seen a lot that are arched downward as
> stock, supposedly eliminating some of the shock associated with popping the
> spring over center I assume, but I'm not sure on that. The newer ones have
> them level, but I think the older ones arch up, you'll have to look at some
> others or talk with someone who has one. I only have coils on the front,
> so I can't help here ... if you check out my homepage you can find a link
> to the spring install I did on mine, it shows the before pics of how mine
> looked. The other way to tell is if you hit the bump stops a lot ...
> measure the distance between the stop and whatever it hits, seems like
> pat's was around 2" and should have been 3 or 4 ... not positive on this,
> but I think that's what they said ...
>

Well, if you're refering to my truck, yes. It has 2" clearance from
the I-beam to the bump stops. But, it's a 2WD, and I think you guys
are talkin 4WD here. Gene had 6", and was wonderin' why his TRUCK
was wandering so much (I wander were she's headed next . . )
- --
Pat Brown
I'm gettin a new yardstick in Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:10:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 335 series intake manifold was: How to identify the year of a Ford 360

Dave wrote:
[Bunch o' stuff snipped]

> Just to clarify this design, the Thermactor air passage in the 335 series
> intake
> manifold is completely isolated from the intake runners. It does not put air
> into the intake tract at all. Air pumped into the Thermactor passage in the
> intake manifold goes into the air injection passages at the ends of the 335
> series cylinder heads. The air injection passages in the cylinder heads go
> through the heads from the intake side to the exhaust side and open into the
> tops of the exhaust ports, just inside the exhaust manifold mating surface.
>
So, this setup avoids the external tube that the 460's use (I just wrote
about in another post). Could the "exhaust port freeze plug" on the 335
heads just be a remnant of a drilling operation on the heads? Rather
than hang tubes all over the exhaust manifold or heads, drill a long hole
from the end that wasn't or couldn't be cast in?
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 13:13:18 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: sagging springs

>Well, if you're refering to my truck, yes. It has 2" clearance from
>the I-beam to the bump stops. But, it's a 2WD, and I think you guys
>are talkin 4WD here. Gene had 6", and was wonderin' why his TRUCK
>was wandering so much (I wander were she's headed next . . )

Yeah 6" is probably a little much, though the bump stops shouldn't cause
this problem, they are an indicator that you might have a little bit too
much lift goin on ... I didn't remember if yours was 2 or 4, then I forgot
whether the original post was 2 or 4, the difference should still be very
little in the front I would think ... it may sit higher, but the spring
should still be allowed a similar amount of travel right ?


Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 11:41:16 -0700
From: "Terry Pendergrass"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F5 in Maryland

I saw this ad on http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://wwwheels.com and thought someone might be interested. There were several old Fords for sale that were pretty reasonably priced sounds like.
Terry


GREEN and BLACK w/ BROWN int. 8 CYLINDER 30,000mi. 4 SPD. Classic '50 Ford F5 (dually rated for 24Klbs. GTW)Recently rblt 302 (
miles), C6 Trans, New Brake MC, wired 12v, mahogany dash, VERY solid frame. Great summer project. 50 yrs. old and driveable! $1,500 Stock
No. (TERRY 301-847-5124 LAUREL, MD)


Free web-based email, anytime, anywhere!
ZDNet Mail - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.zdnetmail.com
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 19:01:59 -0400
From: Jim Knapper
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1968 F100 cab mounts

I've got a 68 F100 in pretty good shape except for a couple of areas
under the cab. the right front cab mount has a large hole (rust) that
isn't meant to be there, and the "crossmember" that goes from side to
side for the rear cab mounts (I think) is rusted out on both ends. Does
anyone know if there are parts available to fix these areas? Thanks.
Jim in Canada

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 19:43:48 -0400
From: Brent Cole
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dave R. Christens another M-Block

The hole which the steel tube runs is connected to the thermactor ports
inside the exhaust port on the 460s. Oddly I don't recall seeing them on my
m block. If they are the are disguised differently than my 460. Anyone
else know?

Brent

>On 460's, this is the air pump port, but IIRC they are at both ends
>of the heads. I replaced a rather noisy plug :-) on my dads 78 F250,
>as I recall the front of both heads are plugged, the rear ports are
>connected together with a steel tube which then runs of to the
>diverter, etc. The tube is held in with a small flange and single bolt.
>--
>Pat Brown
>Clear, Sunny, Warm, Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 20:23:50 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Voltmeter or Ammeter??

I decided yesterday that I was going to fix the factory oil pressure guage
and the temp guage and get rid of the aftermarket ones that the previous
owner installed. I located the wires, and they work just fine, I guess the
other guy just wanted aftermarket ones. Anyway, the charging guage, is it
an ammeter or voltmeter? Either way, it dosent do anything, and I want to
fix it, I looked it my Haynes manual (ACK!!), and found a ammeter, but
after looking at the truck, I see the main charging wire goign anywhere
near it. So, whats the best way to fix it? Or at least to see if it
works? Im trying to get all the factory stuff working again..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:47:54 EDT
From: JPatte5238 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine and Tranny

Thanks WEDIVE247 for the information on the truck. Somewhere alone the line
a V8 engine was slipped in. I was told that this one of the years that Ford
designed engine mounts that fit a V8 and L6 without changes. Is this true?

Thanks again
John Patterson

1965 V8 3sdp SWB with the original bullet hole in the front windshield.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 21:21:18 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sensoring

At 11:16 AM 5/5/99 -0600, you wrote:
>At 09:22 AM 05/05/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>Pat B. writes: >>Oh, Oh, Azie. Hang on to your hat. Marko's coming, and
he's
>>mumbling something about insufficient censoring of GM terms on this list
.
>>
>>It's tough getting O L D... Forget to do all kinds of things. Maybe
>Marko(and
>>others) will forgive me. P L E A S E Marko???
>>
>>Azie
>>Ardmore, Al.
>>
>
>Azie:
>
>I have taken Stu off red alert, for now....
>
>marko :^]

Marko,

Weapons grade Uranium has been a little bit expensive here lately so not to
worry. I usually don't go on
"silly boy tie alert" unless the thread continues for a day or two. Azie
does work for a company that supplied some good stuff to Ford like Dana
axles and transfer cases. I think my friend Azie is safe for a few days.
I will be certain to scold him at the Super Nats next weekend as he pulls
up in his Big Mercedes Benz 560 SL
to view the finest trucks built in the world. 8^)

BTW- Ted Freeman, this year I will be driving my Ford car to the show so NO
comments about me riding in my buddies G*C van like I did last year!!!!!

Ford content will include the fact that the fresh FE 360 short block was
placed on the engine stand this afternoon before all the thunderous weather
passed through with only minimal damage here in west Tennessee. Hopefully
within a few weeks we will have her painted, assembled and mated to the
NP435 and dropped in the frame. Then set the cab and bed on and start
building her the rest of the way. Man am I ever pumped!!!!
One door completely assembled and the other is on the rack ready to
go......if I can ever get the time!!!


Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

7 days to PF!!!!! wooohooo!!!!!!!

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:22:57 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Whatsatruckworth?

My neighbor has a Unibody that needs a new home.
The engine is original and shot.
The hood has rusted through in the usual spot (Front).
The Cab has cancer. the fenders and bed have it too!
None has perforated yet that I can see.
Truck is in Portland, Or.
What is a unibody in fairly rough condition worth?

TIA
Muel

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 22:44:59 -0600
From: richlars ibm.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1968 F100 cab mounts

I'm not sure about all areas, but I got some very good cab supports from JC
Whitney about ten years ago. Last I checked, they still carried them.

Jim Knapper wrote:

> I've got a 68 F100 in pretty good shape except for a couple of areas
> under the cab. the right front cab mount has a large hole (rust) that
> isn't meant to be there, and the "crossmember" that goes from side to
> side for the rear cab mounts (I think) is rusted out on both ends. Does
> anyone know if there are parts available to fix these areas? Thanks.....


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