61-79-list-digest Monday, May 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 150



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Engine and Tranny
FTE 61-79 - Good Times Van
FTE 61-79 - alternator
Re: FTE 61-79 - Joke
FTE 61-79 - Bumper Protection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Windshield seals
FTE 61-79 - I have heat
FTE 61-79 - gas tanks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tach terminal on 360 with electronic ignition
FTE 61-79 - Re: Rotunda
FTE 61-79 - Sick FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - bed classifications
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360
FTE 61-79 - 76 Ammeter Failure. Should be how do I fix one of the few flubs Ford made.
RE:FTE 61-79 - appology/Cam choice
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box Driver's Side ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine wires
FTE 61-79 - Re: researching trucks
FTE 61-79 - Barry Renfro's 300 I6
FTE 61-79 - Fw: F250 power steering
Re: FTE 61-79 - Windshield seals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Barry Renfro's 300 I6
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box Driver's Side ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box Driver's Side ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - alternator
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bumper Protection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box Driver's Side ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360
FTE 61-79 - EGR
FTE 61-79 - toolbox
FTE 61-79 - killer stereos
Re: FTE 61-79 - killer stereos
FTE 61-79 - Another Texas Truck emerges!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Another Texas Truck emerges!
Re: FTE 61-79 - bed classifications
Re: FTE 61-79 - bed classifications and PF
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine and Tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - gas tanks
Re: FTE 61-79 - toolbox
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360
Re: FTE 61-79 - proper spelling
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360

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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 07:05:08 EDT
From: JPatte5238 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine and Tranny

Hi,
I recently purchased a 1965 F100 truck. The engine and tranny in the truck
are not original to my understanding. Does anybody know what size the motor
and tranny would be from the numbers?

Transmission #'s are HEF CH
037115 Both of these #'s were on a
silver tag.

Engine #'s are 7M18
C80E-6015-A Located next to the starter.

Thank You
John Patterson
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 07:02:27 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Good Times Van

Thanks guys for your ideas on removing the engine. I got it out yesterday
with no problems. I was able to make the engine hoist work by removing
the hoist wheels which made it lower. Then I jacked up the front of the
van and placed 4x4 posts horizontally under the front tires. The front
end was then high enough to properly lift the engine. I separated the
engine from the transmission and once it was free I just rolled the van
back away from the engine. Worked great.

Thanks Again
Jon E. Purut
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jcpurut
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/Chelley
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 07:15:13 -0400
From: "Upchurch, Jason"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - alternator

This is my 1st posting so please bear w/ me.
I need help- my alternator light will not go off in my 65 F-100. The alternator and voltage regulator are both new and working right. I have a wire though. This wire is right at the voltage regulator and is dangling freely. When I put my meter on this wire it has a voltage of 7 volts, DC. Please help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 04:48:24 -0700
From: Tim Neasham
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Joke

At 07:57 AM 4/30/99 , you wrote:
>I know this is off topic, but I thought it was funny.

>"In that case, let it read, "Billy Bob died - 1963 Pick-up for sale"

Should have wrote it as, "Billy Bob died - 1963 Ford Truck for sale"
You would have maintained content that way.


Tim Neasham
Benton City, Washington
'74 & '76 F-250
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 07:25:13 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bumper Protection

>
> I got out and was starting to shake my head in that "I'm not gonna want to
> see this" motion until I actually saw the back of my truck. Nothing knocked
> off, cracked, crunched or anything...just a slight bend in the bumper! Oh
> yeah, little bits of headlight wear mashed into it too! :-) The other guy
> didn't fair so well...crushed grill, smashed headlight, fender buckled out,
> etc., etc. :-) Back at the police station filling out the accident forms I
> had to fight to keep a big goofy grin off my face - didn't think the poor
> sap that rear-ended me would appreciate a smug attitude from me.
>
> I keep getting told that I should get a new truck but after that incident,
> I'm happy to be driving an old truck. Rock solid! Hehehe...best part is the
> guy lives about 8 blocks from me so I can drive by whenever I need a good
> laugh...

Just another good reason to keep your trailer hitch in all the time. You
gotta protect your bumper you know. Mine's a 4 inch wide by 1 inch
thick piece of steel going into a piece of 4 inch square tubing, set at
about beer can mid-radiator height. As soon as they impale themselves
you can move forward a few inches(especially if you are on a downgrade)
to "set the hook" Truthfully, I have mellowed a little on this step
through the years.

At least now I take off the ball.
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 07:58:53 -0700
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Windshield seals

Darrell, Try some Visqueen plastic between the speaker and the door. It's a
cheep fix for the wet speakers ;^) Also......I too would like to get a
Carpenter Catalog.
Smeck,
79 F100
FTE "Brain Trust"

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Windshield seals


> This talk about rubber has got me wonderin. Where can I get this
Carpenter
> catalouge? I need the seals for the doors, everything but the wing, which
> surprisingly is in great shape. Im gettin tired of wet speakers and that
> annoying rattle. Not to mention the crash when you shut the door. Thanks
> folks.
>
> Darrell Duggan
> 74 F-350 "Tweety"
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>

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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 06:01:49 PDT
From: "eldon eversull"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I have heat

My heater is fixed, thanks to all of your responses. I took both hoses off
of the engine Friday and ran water from a garden hose through them to
evacuate the air from the heater core. But after driving for a while, still
no heat.

Saturday the cooling system burped as water was drawn from the radiator
overflow tank and now there is heat in the heater. Thanks again.

Eldon, 1964 F100


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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 06:14:03 PDT
From: "eldon eversull"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - gas tanks

I searched the archives and found that someone on the older trucks list had
added a rear gas tank, but has anyone done this in a 1961-64? I looked at a
gas tank Friday for a 1986 Isuzu pup, but it looks really small and was $75.
The dimensions are right though, 29"w x 11" across and about 12" tall. They
didn't know the capacity, but I would guess 12 to 14 gallons. I called an
Isuzu dealer and they want $65 for the sending unit. They said the capacity
was 83L, but that works out to about 22 gallons I think.

I've called MTS about plastic tanks, but nothing for the size of 29x15x8 is
available. So, has anyone added a rear tank for a 1961-64 styleside, SWB?
Thanks.

Eldon, 1964 F100.


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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:20:37 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box

At 10:12 PM 4/30/99 , you wrote:
>All this talk about tool boxes has got me thinkin. Id love to put one on my
>truck, but ceing the F-350, thats where the spare tire is. Im thinkin maybe
>I could put it on the drivers side. Anyone out there done this?? Lemm know.
> Thanks.
>
According to the "Red Book" the toolboxes were available from 64? (can't
remember that one now) til '76 (the book only goes to 77 and doesn't show
them avaialble that year) ... and were on either the right or the left
side, so there shouldn't be any problem switching which side its on ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:29:04 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tach terminal on 360 with electronic ignition

>Yes, tach terminal is the same as minus (ground) side of the ign. coil.

True, but take a peek at the subject line ... he's got elec. ignition,
though it should still hook up the same right ?

>Each time the points are closing it will be like ground, and when they open
>it will give 12 volts.

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:30:31 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rotunda

>In the AutoKrafters catalog there is a "Rotunda" compass listed. Anybody
>know if this is something that was available from the factory in the 60's?

These things are showing up on 'stangs once in a while too, I think they
were considered "dealer installed options", that is if you ordered one, the
dealer would actually put it on. Not sure they ever left the factory with
one installe, but I bet a few left the dealer with them installed... sounds
like something you'd find on a "Camper Special"


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:31:41 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sick FE

>
> My 428 runs like the timing is retarded (It's not)or the firing order is
> wrong(It's not).Sounds "flat" no power,sick,like it has the flu.
> AFB has fresh rebuild,has new plugs,cap,wires,rotor,#150 compression on
> all 8,no vacum leaks,dist.does not seem sloppy&has good gear.dist gear
> on cam looks fine,advances as it should and timing does not vary.
> I'm thinking flat cam,bad timing chain,or possibly bad Unilite unit in
> Mallory Dist.From what I understand Unilite either works or not, no 1/2
> way with them.
> If the chain was bad wouldn't the timing be all over the place?Is there
> another way to test chain?Is there any way to test a flat cam,besides a
> dial indicator off the cam lobe?

You can check your timing chain by pulling the distributor cap and
rotor, and turning the shaft back and forth. You'll feel the advance
weights, that's the springy part of the travel. Anything beyond that is
slack in the timing set. If you can move it much you need to replace
the timing set.

A flat cam will usually show up in a compression test. A flat intake
lobe will feed less air, so you wont build pressure as well as the other
cylinders. A flat exhaust lobe is harder to detect, but in most cases
will cause the cylinder pressure to remain higher during the overlap
period showing up as a higher value on the gauge and causing reversion.
Is your carb sooty looking? FE's aren't usually hard on cams, I've
never run across one even with 200,000 miles that had a bad cam. I
suppose if you had never changed your oil, or ran it three quarts low it
might hurt one, but your rods and mains would have taken a beating too.
If your compression is good, and even all around, the valvetrain is
likely doing ok.
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:38:01 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - bed classifications

>how come most people refer to bed types as style sides and flare sides
>???

Because if you look, after about 64 or 5 they are Stylesides and step sides
... according to most of the literature I've read mine's called a
styleside, didn't think they were changing it for today's terms but maybe
they are ...

>call me old fashioned but I myself, refer to
>those as fleet side and step sides!!!!

fleet side ? that's diggin back a ways isn't it ? :)


>your flare side didnt come out until mid -90's and were one peice
>construction...
>some have referred to this when they have 61 to 79 trucks and it really
>bugs me.... If I recall step sides had removable
>fenders . Basically FORD came up with those flashy name to appeal to the

Actually I think now the Flare Side is Ford and the Step Side is the Chevy
version ... I don't think it really refers to the fenders anymore. Also
think they have become pretty much interchangeable (flair/step)

>yuppie crowd . But please dont get mad but it just doesnt sound right to
>me
>SORRY

Just out of curiosity do you call Mach I Mustang's "sportsroof" or
"fastback" ? They were considered a sportsroof from the factory...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:45:05 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360

At 07:13 PM 5/2/99 , you wrote:
>Hi Deacon
>I live in Palm Desert, that's about 20 miles From Palm Springs. I would be
>happy to buy the pump and all it's attendant plumbing and brackets. The only
>problem as Steve pointed out earlier is that the heads must be the correct
>ones to hook the pump into. (A short aside: Steve thanks for the suggestion
>but I can't find the casting number. where do I look?). The next problem may
>be the intake manifold on some Ford engines the AIR pump was plumbed into
>the the intake (as on my brother in-law's 77 F-350).

I might be able to help here a little bit ... I have a 4V that has the EGR
hole in it, unfortunately I don't have the base for it where the EGR valve
mounts ... maybe someone out there has one that they don't know what to do
with ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 06:42:12 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 76 Ammeter Failure. Should be how do I fix one of the few flubs Ford made.

Here's Jim's windup...... and the pitch.......
- --------------------
I'd like to fix the stock ammeter in my '76 highboy. It hasn't worked
in the 12 years I've had the truck. Everyone I've talked to says that
they never work. Is there a common failure mode that someone has
figured out how to fix?

The ammeter itself responds to voltage put across it and the charging
system works fine. I have the wiring diagram for the truck, but I can't
trace the circiut through the firewall.

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks,

Jim

CRACK .... its a long drive to deep center field..... it's going going.....

Actually Jim, I went throug this same thing when I joined the list. I have
had 2 1976 pickups and neither of them had a working ammeter. Look in some
of the archives from around June of the first year. As near as I can tell
the problem was related to a vendor quality issue. The basic design is
correct but if there is a variation in the internal resistance of the meter
from the initial design then the system won't work. Let me back up. The
design is a meter with an external shunt located in the wiring harness for
the alternator. This design prevents needing to route all of the charging
current into the passenger compartment and back to the battery. The long
route would be expensive and possibly dangerous to have all of the current
inside the dash.

The fix is to remove the harness and unwrap it. Locate the shunt - a huge
piece of black wire - and add more resistance to it - in the form of a
longer piece of wire. You don't need much resistance - less than you can
buy in an standard resistor and it needs to be able to carry a large amount
of current. As I remember about a 10 foot piece of 8 guage wire is about
right. I am planning on writing this up for the web site. Tonight might be
a good time. I'll send you a copy.

About that wiring diagram. Could I get a copy?

Tom H.

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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:53:17 -0500
From: Don Yerhot
Subject: RE:FTE 61-79 - appology/Cam choice

I had real good luck with a Crane Maximum Velocity RV cam on my 300/6.
Summit sales them for around $95.00. Didn't have any problems whatsoever
passing emissions with it either.(It was in a 82 F150) The only PITA was
trying to get the gear off the old cam, it's pressed on real tight,
ended up having to get a replacement gear from the dealer. Thanks for
the tip on the oil of wintergreen...where would I be able to buy it?

DonY
65F250-351W-435NP
74F100-351W-Ford 3 Speed


Subject: FTE 61-79 - appology

I'm new, my first post was about as informative as how long is a piece
of
string. I have a '69 F-100 w/ a 300, 3 on tree, what iI would like is
recommendations for a cam. RV or something else. I've got about 3K on
the
engine, are all the different mfg's about the same on cam shafts? One
thing
that works on frozen exhaust nuts is oil of wintergreen,
used to use it on aircraft (recip) exhaust systems, works real good.>>



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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:57:29 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick FE

>You can check your timing chain by pulling the distributor cap and
>rotor, and turning the shaft back and forth. You'll feel the advance
>weights, that's the springy part of the travel. Anything beyond that is
>slack in the timing set. If you can move it much you need to replace
>the timing set.
>

Won't this most likely just check the teeth on the cam and dist ? or do
you actually have enough leverage to rotate the cam back and forth like
this ? I read on Mike's page a great way to do this is to use a "breaker
bar" and socket on the crank bolt and turn that back and forth while
watching the rotor, that should give you play in the chain right ? how
ever far you move the breaker bar is how much play you have ... dunno the
limits on this one ....
check :

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www3.your-net.com/~pmbaker/mcbcarb.htm

Have you double checked to be sure nothing's jumped anywhere ? Should show
up when you test the timing chain if that's off (be sure the dots all line
up)....the other possibility is putting the dist in in a shifted position,
ie missing the tooth you were aiming for. I did this once, got it
advanced, thing was a bugger to start, once it did you had to hold about
1500 revs ... I ended up getting it advanced (20+ deg), its possible you
got yours retarded ....


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:59:18 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box Driver's Side ?

>Mine also came from a '65. I was going to put it on the driver's side
>but it won't fit. Glad I figured it out before I cut the hole. The left
>side of the box is not as deep to avoid the mounting hardware for the
>leaf springs.

Hmmmm.... aren't there springs on both sides of the truck ? Guess I never
really looked under mine, but that would imply that the frame isn't
centered either wouldn't it ?

Just curious ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:06:54 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine wires

At 08:41 PM 4/30/99 , you wrote:
>yes, there is suppost to be a thicker brake on i believe the front on the
>passengers, and the back on the drivers, it has to do with which side is
>really being used to do most of the braking. Im not sure im right on which
>side is which..

Which side is doing most of the breaking ?? Wouldn't it be a front versus
rear thing ?


When I redid my brakes one of the linings on the rear
>shoes
>>is thicker than the other. Did I get the right linings? Mouse2Mann aol.com

Do you mean one on each side, or one pair was thicker than the others ?
Generally there is a primary and a secondary for each side, one of these
(the primary which is usually the front one) will be smaller (shorter pad)
than the other, this is because of the way it work, its "self acutating"
that is, as it starts to grab the drum, its pulled into the drum because of
the way its rotating. As a result this shoe provides more braking per inch
than the other, so the other will be longer to apply a similar overall
braking power.

Hope this makes some sense and answers your question a little... if it is
way off lemme know.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:03:44 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: researching trucks

Morgan said:
> I was wondering if you guys could maybe suggest a good truck for
> me for under $5000. What I was looking for was something with a
> classic feel ...(snip)

I'll stay away from that question. Everyone has their own personal
preference. My best answer would be to look at all the styles to see which
ones appeal to you visually, then get as many catalogs as you can to see
what specialty parts are available. Most of the hardware under the hood is
available in one form or another, but you might pull you hair out trying to
find a solid replacement fender (as an example) for some models.

I personally like the simplicity and size of a straight 6 engine to a V8.


> Also my parents said in cars made previous to the early 70s a
> additive is needed to fill up the truck with regular gas, is
> this true?

What they are talking about is lead. Cars from the 60s were designed to run
on leaded gasoline. You can't buy leaded gasoline anymore. The question of
whether lead is needed for your old car always comes up on the auto
newsgroups.

The general consenus is -- NO, you don't need it.

Some will tell you that you do need it. The reasoning is that the lead
conditions and protects the valve seats from heat. The reality is that it
doesn't matter much. There's usually so much muck in an old engine that
very little new damage is being done.

However, when you have an engine rebuilt, you should spend the extra money
to have hardened valve seats installed. This will keep your new engine safe
and solid.

You can buy lead additive in most auto parts stores, but it adds up in cost
in the long run, is of questionable help, and is highly poisonous.

- -don

- ---
Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon
Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters


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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:00:11 -0400
From: David Henderson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Barry Renfro's 300 I6

Barry:

I cannot tell you about performance yet, but he cam I bought was the 264 degree
hydraulic cam from Clifford Performance (http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cliffordperformance.com)
for $168.00. It's a bit pricey compared to others I've seen and does not come
with bearings. I'll post more info on performance after the break-in period's
over.

Bill:

I talked with the machinist who is doing the bore over on my block this
Saturday. He assured that he would be done in about a week and a half (Judging
by the number of engines ahead of me, 2, he should be able to make it). To be
more specific on the bore over, it's 0.040 over.

I'll also try to update my web page with pic's of the rebuild. I need to get
some film in my wife's camera first, though.

Thanks!!

Dave H

- --
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:16:51 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fw: F250 power steering

- -----Original Message-----
From: Marius Louwrens
To: bbeyer pacifier.com
Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 4:13 AM
Subject: F250 power steering


>I have a F250 '76 4x4 RHD fitted with a 351 Cleveland and C4 auto box. The
>South African built units came without power steering. I use the vehicle
>mainly for fishing trips etc.
>I recently suffered a stroke and do not have enough strength left now to
>maneuver the 4x4 around in off-road conditions.
>I wish to obtain a power steering kit for the F250, but this is not
>available in South Africa. Do you have any contact for me where I may
>enquire about kits ?
>Your help will be appreciated !
>
>Thanks
>
>Marius Louwrens
>


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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 11:43:52 -0400
From: William A Whited
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Windshield seals

Here's their web site, you can get the catalog through it.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/

William A Whited
74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390
77 F100 CUSTOM FLAIRSIDE 302
79 F100 EXPLORER SUPERCAB 302 (PARTS TRUCK)
"IT DON'T GTMO BETTER THEN THIS, SEMPER FI"

Steve Schmeckpeper wrote:

> Darrell, Try some Visqueen plastic between the speaker and the door. It's a
> cheep fix for the wet speakers ;^) Also......I too would like to get a
> Carpenter Catalog.
> Smeck,
> 79 F100
> FTE "Brain Trust"
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
>
> > This talk about rubber has got me wonderin. Where can I get this
> Carpenter
> > catalouge? I need the seals for the doors, everything but the wing, which
> > surprisingly is in great shape. Im gettin tired of wet speakers and that
> > annoying rattle. Not to mention the crash when you shut the door. Thanks
> > folks.
> >
> > Darrell Duggan
> > 74 F-350 "Tweety"

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 10:47:12 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Barry Renfro's 300 I6

>Bill:
>
>I talked with the machinist who is doing the bore over on my block this
>Saturday. He assured that he would be done in about a week and a half
(Judging
>by the number of engines ahead of me, 2, he should be able to make it). To be
>more specific on the bore over, it's 0.040 over.
>
>I'll also try to update my web page with pic's of the rebuild. I need to get
>some film in my wife's camera first, though.
>
I know how the film thing goes, I've still got 6 or 7 pics left to take I
think, then within a week I should have them up on the page ...
I know how you feel with the motor thing too, I was told a couple weeks and
there were a couple motors a head of me, he was trying to do all three at
once, well in stages so he didn't have to tear down and setup the same
machine over and over ... so when one of them ran into a problem, they all
waited ... we'll just hope for the best in your case ... and definitely
keep me updated :)


Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:30:26 -0700
From: "Terry Pendergrass"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box Driver's Side ?

I have one on my '65 F100 and I think what he was saying is that inside the toolbox there is a 4"X4"X4" (approx)indentation(for lack of a better word) inside the toolbox. Probably to clear the springs.

Terry
'65 "Toolbox Installed ;-)" F100
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://pages.hotbot.com/fan/65fordf100/index.html
- --

On Mon, 03 May 1999 08:59:18 William S Hart wrote:
>>Mine also came from a '65. I was going to put it on the driver's side
>>but it won't fit. Glad I figured it out before I cut the hole. The left
>>side of the box is not as deep to avoid the mounting hardware for the
>>leaf springs.
>
>Hmmmm.... aren't there springs on both sides of the truck ? Guess I never
>really looked under mine, but that would imply that the frame isn't
>centered either wouldn't it ?
>
>Just curious ...
>
>
>Just my 2cents
>
>wish
>
>Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
>'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
>'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 11:37:24 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box Driver's Side ?

At 11:30 AM 5/3/99 , you wrote:
> I have one on my '65 F100 and I think what he was saying is that inside the
>toolbox there is a 4"X4"X4" (approx)indentation(for lack of a better word)
>inside the toolbox. Probably to clear the springs.
>
OHHHH!!! So the box has a "dent" in it to clear the shackles and if you
turn it around its facing the wrong way ... * a light comes on and a fuse
blows *

That makes much more sense ... thanks for clearing that up.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:30:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - alternator

Hi Jason,

> This is my 1st posting so please bear w/ me.

Welcome aboard!

> I need help- my alternator light will not go off in my 65 F-100.
> The alternator and voltage regulator are both new and working right.

So, it sounds like your alternator is charging, but the light
stays on? Does it stay on all the time (key on/key off?).

> I have a wire though. This wire is right at the voltage regulator
> and is dangling freely. When I put my meter on this wire it has a
> voltage of 7 volts, DC. Please help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hmmm, I'm thinking Stator wire, but, just to be sure . . .
What color wire? Do all the regulator terminals have wires on them?
And, while you're answering all these, you might as well fill us
in on what happened originally (leading you to install new alt/reg)

Here is a diagram to help you out (Thanks Steve!):

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/fordchrg.jpg

- --
Pat Brown
Cloudy, Cool, Drizzly, Sebastopol, California
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:07:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bumper Protection

Bill writes:

> [David's bumper-bender snipped]

Glad to hear your OK, David!

> Just another good reason to keep your trailer hitch in all the time. You
> gotta protect your bumper you know. Mine's a 4 inch wide by 1 inch
> thick piece of steel going into a piece of 4 inch square tubing, set at
> about beer can mid-radiator height. As soon as they impale themselves
> you can move forward a few inches(especially if you are on a downgrade)
> to "set the hook" Truthfully, I have mellowed a little on this step
> through the years.

But, Bill,

I've been known to leave my hitch in on occasion, but it seems like
whenever I do I get reminded - with a big bruise on my shin! Ouch!
Man, those suckers hurt!
- --
Pat Brown
No bruises today in Sebastopol, California (knock-knock)
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 11:18:45 -0700
From: "Terry Pendergrass"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tool box Driver's Side ?

Would somebody please turn that light back off, I'm trying to sleep.;-)
- --

On Mon, 03 May 1999 11:37:24 William S Hart wrote:
>At 11:30 AM 5/3/99 , you wrote:
>> I have one on my '65 F100 and I think what he was saying is that inside the
>>toolbox there is a 4"X4"X4" (approx)indentation(for lack of a better word)
>>inside the toolbox. Probably to clear the springs.
>>
>OHHHH!!! So the box has a "dent" in it to clear the shackles and if you
>turn it around its facing the wrong way ... * a light comes on and a fuse
>blows *
>
>That makes much more sense ... thanks for clearing that up.
>
>
>Just my 2cents
>
>wish
>
>Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
>'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
>'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:52:15 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360

Sorry for taking so long to reply but we had a house fire the day
after Thanksgiving so we are staying a motel and I had to drive over to
the house to see how the air was hooked up. Once again Brother Steve is
correctamundo. The air injection manifold attaches to the head just
before the exhaust manifold flange. It may be possible to have the
bosses drilled and pressed into your exhaust manifolds. It would work
but I'm not sure the Smog Nazi's will allow it. I wouldn't have a
problem trading heads if you need to. there is no connections going to
the intake manifold so you shouldn't have to change it. The pump
attaches on the right side above the alternator and to the water pump.
The control valve has no bracket, it just hangs there. The system's
complete so you only need to come up with the holes. :]
After the fire things were looking a little dim. Though our
insurance covered everything, it was going to take time. It looked like
Christmas was going to be canceled for us this year. We were grateful no
one was hurt, but no presents for the kids to open Christmas morning was
weighing heavy on my wife and me. What you have after a fire is what you
managed to have on when you got out. Until it happened to us it never
accrued to me what happened to people after a fire. If you don't want to
wear the same underwear the next day, you need to go shopping, brush
your teeth, go shopping, wash your hands,,, go shopping. Sound bad so
far? Now add, my wallet is on the dresser, with my I.D., ATM, credit
card, life. Things that were easy just yesterday become extremely
difficult in a flash (yes, pun intended). Everything you have can now
fit in an ashtray (another one).
Christmas was great do to the generosity of my friends here on FTE.
My very good friend Stu took up a collection and we received over
$700.00 that helped us through a very tough time. If these parts can
help you, they're yours. Helping another list member is a way for me to
say thank you for the help this list has given me.

Later!

Deacon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/
================================================================
'76 F350 FE360 C6 \ '73 F100 302 C4
'66 Mustang 289 C4 \ '89 Aerostar Who cares!
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm


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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:19:46 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - EGR

To add to the confusion I'll add my $.07, to wit:

EGR valves came along with lower compression ratios and higher thermostat
temps, all in the name of lower emissions. Believe it or not, gasoline
vapor is so volatile that it will ignite without a spark at lower
compression and a typical air to fuel mix. Did you ever here of a 58 Ford
having a deiseling problem? Nope, another low compression high heat side
effect. The entire purpose of the EGR valve is exactly what its name
implies, Exhaust Gas Recurculation. By reburning the exhaust gas, you
reduce undesirable emissions. My theory is that if you block off the EGR
and drop to a 180 degree thermostat, you won't do any damage. This is
theory and not backed by experience or research. BTW, blocking the EGR
violates federal law.

Makes perfect sense to me, Dave.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:20:14 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - toolbox

Darrell,

That's where a lot of us have a gas tank filler. I think that's one reason
they didn't put one on the left side in later years. Also it would be a
safety hazard. I can see some dope sueing Ford because they needed tools
while helping someone broke down in a Ch#vy and getting run over because
they were on the traffic side.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:20:44 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - killer stereos

I've tried to avoid this thread but I can't any longer. A stereo power
rating will say something like this:

50 watts total with less than 15% total harmonic distortion from 10 to
15,000 khz RMS.

That's four parameters:
1. rated watts
2. % distortion
3. frequency range
4. method of calculation

The wattage is usally first in real big letters. The other stuff is usually
in real little letters. In reality, the last three are a better indicator
of performance than wattage. I would much prefer a wider frequency response
and lower distortion. Actually if you knew how to run the numbers you will
find a lot of items listed as 100 watts have such a high distortion rate
and narrow frequency response band that the usable power is down around 10
or 12 watts. I used to sell stereos. We sold a 30 watt system that had less
than .1% (yes that is one tenth) thd from 10 hz to 25000 khz RMS. That was
one killer system. I still own two of them. Pioneer.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:43:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - killer stereos

John Observes:
> I've tried to avoid this thread but I can't any longer. A stereo power
> rating will say something like this:
>
> 50 watts total with less than 15% total harmonic distortion from 10 to
> 15,000 khz RMS.
>
> That's four parameters:
> 1. rated watts
> 2. % distortion
> 3. frequency range
> 4. method of calculation
>
> The wattage is usally first in real big letters. The other stuff is usually
> in real little letters. In reality, the last three are a better indicator

[Remainder snipped]

Yep. And, it seems, the bigger the first number is, the less likely
the remainders are even listed.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:45:30 -0500
From: "Darryl Wright"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Another Texas Truck emerges!

Just bought an ancient Ford truck to drive around the lovely Denton, Texas
and haul my nags on occasion. This truck was found *way* out in east Texas
by my mechanic, Ron at All-Tech in Dallas. Thanks, Ron!
My *new* truck is a 1976 F-250 SuperCab Ranger XLT, with a 460. The
humongous custom step-and-tow bumper makes this character a real Texas rig.
And it's in the Indio Tan/Copper Metallic scheme that mimics the very Texas
dust. Very handsome! This truck hides my real identity as a displaced
Yankee. I now fit seamlessly into the Texas subculture. All I need now is
either big hair or a big hat.
Had to do a little stuff to it initially to get it roadworthy after sitting
for a *few* years -- new battery, fresh filter elements, etc. But, except
for switching out a few
blown lightbulbs and cleaning up some electrical contacts, hey! this crate
is hauling! Were the mud daubers standard or optional on the '76? ;-) Was in
total shock to see a twenty-something truck with so little rust! Still have
the New England mentality working here.
Yes, it's true that it sits at a red light and says "quart, quart, quart" as
it idles, but what the heck! For such a low initial investment ($500), I can
burn a *lot* of gas before I get anywhere near the amount spent on a vehicle
with a payment book!
And -- here we go! -- the a/c works! Cold as a meat locker!
Now I'm seeking the rear seat for my truck, if anyone knows where one might
be hiding. Probably out somewhere else in east Texas . . . or west Texas.
Big state. Lots of old trucks.
Have been enjoying this list and learning from the listers since we signed
on -- seems
like a great bunch of people hang around those old Ford trucks!
BTW, my husband and I found *radial* tires for the 16.5" wheels at (get
this) Pep Boys! ~$60 a piece. I'm sure that this is no great news to the
"old timers." ;-) Darryl tried to get me to swap out the 16.5" wheels for
16s, but no doing! I want the *original* equipment wheels. You can tell
where this whole conversation is going, can't you?
I did allow PPUH (that's Poor Put Upon Husband) to retrofit a decent radio
and new speakers into the beloved vehicle. Gotta have my noise! (Thanks for
the tip about lining the back of the speakers -- the previous speaker cones
were completely dissolved!)
Nancy Wright
Denton, Texas
'76 F-250 Ranger XLT, 460
3 Arabian mares, 1 patient husband, 1 Pembroke Welsh corgi E;-P

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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:01:03 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick FE

In a message dated 5/3/99 1:32:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
F428 ford-trucks.com writes:


wrong(It's not).Sounds "flat" no power,sick,like it has the flu. >>

A good way to get an idea of the condition of the timing chain is to remove
distributor cap, rotate the CRANK by hand in the normal direction until the
timing mark is at TDC. Then slowly move the crank backwards until the
distributor just starts to move. Now you can read how many degrees of
overall slop is in the chain and sprockets. If it is greater than 10 degrees
it is a candidate for replacement according to Ford. I frequently do this
when trouble shooting various vehicles and have found engines running with
overall total of 35 degrees of slop. Remember this overall slop must be
divided by 2 to find out how retarded your cam has been running. Something
blocking the exhaust system can make it run sick also. Is vacuum advance
working? Picking up on a severly flat cam can easily be verified visually
after removing the valve covers. One that is just starting to go flat is
much more work, dial indicator on push rod side of rocker arm (slightly worn
lobes usually do not cause noticable decrease in performance unless you
running the engine at max load. Also, I have never seen a cam go flat on all
lobes equally. You have very good compression, so the general health should
not be too bad. Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:06:35 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Another Texas Truck emerges!

>My *new* truck is a 1976 F-250 SuperCab Ranger XLT, with a 460. The
>humongous custom step-and-tow bumper makes this character a real Texas rig.
>And it's in the Indio Tan/Copper Metallic scheme that mimics the very Texas
>dust. Very handsome! This truck hides my real identity as a displaced
>Yankee. I now fit seamlessly into the Texas subculture. All I need now is
>either big hair or a big hat.

Sounds like a great lookin truck. Unless you're ... uh...vertically
challenged, or have worn seat springs, you're not gonna like either the
hair or the hat ... I STILL have problems hittin my head if I'm not payin
attention when I get in the truck, and I thought it was just the 'stangs
that I had problems with. (I'm only 6'3")

>Had to do a little stuff to it initially to get it roadworthy after sitting
>for a *few* years -- new battery, fresh filter elements, etc. But, except
>for switching out a few
>blown lightbulbs and cleaning up some electrical contacts, hey! this crate
>is hauling!
Sounds like it cleaned up and ran nicely, I've seen ch*vy's sit over the
winter and have more trouble startin than that ... the Fords always started
on the second crank, the G*'s, you could never tell when they would start
... Unless Dad was starting them, then none of them would start.

Were the mud daubers standard or optional on the '76? ;-)

They could be had in place of the bumble-bee's, mice, or the elusive
wood-chuck ...


>Yes, it's true that it sits at a red light and says "quart, quart, quart" as
>it idles, but what the heck! For such a low initial investment ($500), I can
>burn a *lot* of gas before I get anywhere near the amount spent on a vehicle
>with a payment book!

I try and tell some of my friends that, and they never understand ... I
guess interest doesn't mean what it used to ..

>And -- here we go! -- the a/c works! Cold as a meat locker!

Wow, after a "few" years it still works, that's great ... I was amazed when
it worked after sitting all winter in my 96!

>and new speakers into the beloved vehicle. Gotta have my noise! (Thanks for
>the tip about lining the back of the speakers -- the previous speaker cones
>were completely dissolved!)

Hmmm...did I miss this tip ? Anyone care to pass it on again ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 14:27:32 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - bed classifications

At 01:33 PM 02/05/99 -0700, you wrote:
>From: John Pajak
>> Fleetside and Stepside are Chevrolet terms!! The horror!
>>
>> Styleside and Flareside are good, honest, Ford terms!
>

Hey! Watch that spelling! In order, that would be:

Fl*etside, St*pside, and Ch*vrolet or, if you prefer, Junk.

Marko (Stu don't you agree?)

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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:57:16 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - bed classifications and PF

>>From: John Pajak
>>> Fleetside and Stepside are Chevrolet terms!! The horror!
>>>
>>> Styleside and Flareside are good, honest, Ford terms!
>>
>
>Hey! Watch that spelling! In order, that would be:
>
>Fl*etside, St*pside, and Ch*vrolet or, if you prefer, Junk.
>
>Marko (Stu don't you agree?)

Yes Marko, I do agree! AND STRONGLY too!! It's a good thing someone took
care of it quickly becasue I had the nuclear reactors in the pre-firing
phase for that one! We have soooo many new people on the list it takes a
little time to educate them on the finer points of Henry Ford's
terminology.

BTW- Deacon and Marko, will we be seeing you fellers at *The Meca* in
Pigeon Forge, Tennessee this year?

8^)

Stu
Still Nukin' GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:17:33 EDT
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine and Tranny

YOU CAN TELL WHATS STOCK FROM THE VIN # . TRY GIVING THIS TO US AND I'M SURE
SOMEONE CAN TELL YOU THE STOCK ENGINE SIZE ..........
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:26:49 EDT
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - gas tanks

I'M IN THE PROCESS OF INSTALLING A FUEL CELL FROM A 1970 MUSTANG. RUN THE
FILLER NECK TO THE BACK OF THE LICENSE PLATE, CUT A HOLE IN THE BUMPER , AND
GET A HINGED PLATE HOLDER FROM THE BONE YARD . NEEDLESS TO SAY THE SPARE TIRE
CARRIER HAS TO GO..........
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:41:18 EDT
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - toolbox

GREAT POINT !
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 14:54:30 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360

>I live in Palm Desert, that's about 20 miles From Palm Springs. I would be
>happy to buy the pump and all it's attendant plumbing and brackets. The only
>problem as Steve pointed out earlier is that the heads must be the correct
>ones to hook the pump into. (A short aside: Steve thanks for the suggestion
>but I can't find the casting number. where do I look?).

Look for the head casting # between the 2 center spark plugs.
You'll probably have to pull the spark plug boots off first to see them.

> The next problem may
>be the intake manifold on some Ford engines the AIR pump was plumbed into
>the the intake (as on my brother in-law's 77 F-350).

Ehh??? I've never seen a thermactor system plumbed into the intake.
That wouldn't do any good... The only thing that goes to the intake
manifold should be a small vacuum hose that picks up manifold vacuum
to run the thermactor control valve. Perhaps what you saw on your brother
in laws truck was EGR? THAT plumbs into the intake manifold.
You shouldn't need any special manifold to put thermactor pump on an FE,
only the right heads.

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

"There are no stupid questions... just stupid people."

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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 16:14:34 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - proper spelling

At 03:57 PM 03/05/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>>From: John Pajak
>>>> Fleetside and Stepside are Chevrolet terms!! The horror!
>>>>
>>>> Styleside and Flareside are good, honest, Ford terms!
>>>
>>
>>Hey! Watch that spelling! In order, that would be:
>>
>>Fl*etside, St*pside, and Ch*vrolet or, if you prefer, Junk.
>>
>>Marko (Stu don't you agree?)
>
>Yes Marko, I do agree! AND STRONGLY too!! It's a good thing someone took
>care of it quickly becasue I had the nuclear reactors in the pre-firing
>phase for that one! We have soooo many new people on the list it takes a
>little time to educate them on the finer points of Henry Ford's
>terminology.
>
Okay you guys, I just read my 160 messages from last week and I have
noticed a rather serious problem with the spelling. Any list old-timer
like Azie, myself, Deacon, CJ, Stu, or Steve D, or (oops there's lots of
others, Bill B, Don N, Ken of course, I could go on....) can tell you, but
befor you incur their Cobra Venom (like that Ford content, Ken?) or, even
worse, Stu's Marauding, Cyclonic, Super-Duty Nuclear Nightmare (sorry that
was a bit tenuous but all the same) here's the spelling lesson:

N*on, Chr*sler (or excuse me, should I say D*imlerChr*sler, D*dge, Ch*vy,
GarageMan'sCompanion or GMJunk, or GMJ for short, V*ga, etc.

You get the picture. Please watch your spelling.

Using profanities such as Bl*zer or J*mmy or worse, S-1*, C-1*, S*b*rb*n,
or God forbid Y*kon, except in VERY EXCEPTIONAL circumstances or in
sentences such as "That poor so-and-so, bought himself a Bl*zer and it
broke down into a million pieces. I guess you get what you deserve" will
result in a howling chorus of boos, not to mention a Meteoric shower of
flames, from the likes of me and Stu.

I do give full marks for correct spelling like "Gutless", "FireChicken",
and "Goat".



marko :^]

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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 02:43:50 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360

Steve wrote:
> > The next problem may
> >be the intake manifold on some Ford engines the AIR pump was
> >plumbed into
> >the the intake (as on my brother in-law's 77 F-350).
>
> Ehh??? I've never seen a thermactor system plumbed into the....


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