61-79-list-digest Friday, April 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 145



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Vendor Request
FTE 61-79 - RE: Anti-Seize
FTE 61-79 - Re: How much is to much?
Re: FTE 61-79 - HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance
FTE 61-79 - Steering gear box
FTE 61-79 - Explorer package, was: truck info
FTE 61-79 - Re: Parts Vendor Request
FTE 61-79 - Parts Vendor Request
FTE 61-79 - Factory or other limited slip for dana 60 rear
Re: FTE 61-79 - HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH? Not Much.
FTE 61-79 - Re: Colors and being A.R.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Enughf is too much
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Colors and being A.R.
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Anti-Seize
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Anti-Seize
FTE 61-79 - Since we're talking about engine colors
FTE 61-79 - Re: Parts Vendor Request
Re: FTE 61-79 - Since we're talking about engine colors
FTE 61-79 - Re: Vendor Request
FTE 61-79 - Ford Truck vendors
FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze
FTE 61-79 - rusty colored coolant
FTE 61-79 - Power assist question
FTE 61-79 - EGR
Re: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze
FTE 61-79 - R-12 substitutes
FTE 61-79 - Part Needed
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Bondo on your valve covers ???
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Bondo on your valve covers ???
FTE 61-79 - 429 PI
FTE 61-79 - PRCA mudflaps
FTE 61-79 - Tool box
Re: FTE 61-79 - Since we're talking about engine colors
FTE 61-79 - RE: anti sieze
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance
FTE 61-79 - Sliding rear window for 73 -86
Re: FTE 61-79 - HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH? Not Much.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: How much is to much?
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Vendor Request
FTE 61-79 - re: 61 tailgate
FTE 61-79 - Gen. FORD vs. Reproduction??
FTE 61-79 - engine wires
FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD TRANNY
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine wires
FTE 61-79 - Point ignition
Re: FTE 61-79 - Part Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - EGR

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:33:09 -0400
From: "Gayland Crutchfield"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Vendor Request

Wow Bob...you're in for a treat!
Here are a few sites to check out...plus pick up a copy
of "Hemmings Motor News" and "Classic Trucks" and
order some catalogs.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ford-obsolete-parts.com/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.macsautoparts.com/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vintage-ford.com/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/index.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bobdrake.com/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.f100.com/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.socalpickups.com/

..plus do some searches on altavista.com (+trucks +F-100 +parts) etc.
...make sure to get catalogs for '61 to '79 parts.....a ton of stuff out
there for the
'48 through '56 guys and gals......not as much for my '59.....but a good bit
for your truck
and my '79.
Now get some catalogs and enjoy
Crutch '59 F-100, '79 F-150




>
> Does anyone on the list know of any vendor(s) in the country who sell
>specialized parts, such as tail and signal light lenses, door weatherstrip,
>etc. for Ford trucks in our age range here. I have a 72 F-100 in need of
>lenses and door weatherstrip, among other things, and am trying to avoid
>going to my friendly, helpful, price gouging Ford dealer to order the
parts.
>Any info would be greatly appreciated..........Bob
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>

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:02:02 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Anti-Seize

> As my previous tirades have well represented, about the only piece of
> aluminum I will tolerate on an engine is an intake manifold/injection
> manifold, carb, and a thermostat housing, maybe pistons. Aluminum is good
> for making beverage containers, not engine components. My not so humble
> opinion gained from owning aluminum engines. I am sure there are lots of
> list members who disagree. I can live with that. If we all agreed with each
> other all the time, I'd leave as soon as I finished throwing up :-).

The aluminum content of the newer engines, combined with the 100,000
miles without lifting the hood mentality really kills me. People don't
realize how relatively fragile this stuff can be, and how badly it needs
cooling system maintenence. A lot of times you won't even realize it
got hot, and come up with a blown head gasket. Ford has made a fortune
replacing head gaskets on the aluminum head 3.8, they always seem to
fail from 70,000 to 100,000 miles. Brethren, this ought not so to be.
I'd say if this engine had a new thermostat and coolant every 40,000 or
once a year or 18 months, it would live. The aluminum is causing a
corrosive reaction to the degenerating coolant, eating at the head
gasket, and cooling less efficiently(chemically). As the temperature
gradually rises into a higher operating range, it warps a head. But no,
they are supposed to go 100,000 miles without lifting the hood right?
They don't tell people that that doesn't include the cooling system, and
they won't because how better to have people break their cars. A guy
will spend $2000 dollars at 70,000 miles to fix a blown head gasket,
then within 6 months trade in for a new one, because "it can't be
trusted anymore" making the dealership another $3000. Not much
incentive to do the right thing, is there?

"Properly torqued" is a better term, I agree.
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 18:33:09 -0600
From: "James Draughn"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: How much is to much?

Howdy again y'all! Well, my question this time is: How much is too much? I
just got 2 specialty horns for my truck that I am installing tomorrow
a wolf whistle and the other has a bunch of different animal sounds,
melodies
etc.> and I am really wanting to get a small blacklight inside the cab, a CB
radio, offroad lights on my sportbar etc.
ain't made of money LOL> all of which use power and I am wondering how this
all will affect my battery, alternator or overall power load etc. Will too
many accessories overload my system? How can I prevent this? Not go
accessory
crazy? LOL Thanks y'all..any help would be appreciated!


You should be ok as long as you are not running all of the equipment at the
same time for a very long time. The way the charging works is that whenever
the battery drops below a certain voltage the alternator will start to
charge the battery. When manufacturers build there cars they are usually
rated to run everything stock all at the same time. For instance the
heater, lights, cig lighter... it all needs to run at the same time. So for
your answer to your question, I would say to much is about 8 18" subs being
pushed by 8000 watts:) Seriously I have had my one amp that puts out
around 600 Watts which was nothing to the charging system on all the cars I
have owned, including (sad to say) a voltswagon Scirroco. Now if a weenie
Voltswagon charging system could handle 1000 watts total (I din't have just
one amp:))Then I think just about any Ford could handle whatever you could
throw at it. One word of advice. Buy a seperate fuse block and make sure
that you fuse all your add ons. I would do this by running around 8ga wire
from the battery to a relay. The relay would be actuated by a seperate
toggle switch that you install (Don't want all your acces on all the time).
If you really want to do a good job fuse each seperate acces that you
install with its own fuse (on the same aftermarket fusebox that you
installed). Anyway, if you have any more questions just let me know. By
the way, if you where to add a second battery all you would really suscseed
in is giving your alternator even more stress, all the alternator see's is
another power hungry component that needs power. You could buy a high
output alternator that puts out over 100 amps, but isint really nessesarry,
unless like I said you are running 8000 watts of power. Hope this helps

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 05:36:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH?

the other accessorys won't cause too much pull or
strain in the battery or electral systom if they are
properly installed but the second you were to turn on
the Off Road lights your battery would be dead as a
door nail and you would have to drive at Highway
speed for a while for the alternator to catch up.
I remidee this problem by adding a second altrenator
and battery for my off road/ work lights.
TEXAS


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:14:43 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance

At 04:45 AM 4/29/99 , you wrote:
>I was just curious how a machine shop goes about balancing an engine like an
>FE. Can somebody briefly explain the process? Is $165 a fair price?
>
Well the 428's and 410's are externally balanced, so they may need the
crank damper and fly wheel. They actually needed it for my 390 as well.
My understanding is that they weigh all the pistons and rods to be sure
those are close, and put them together so they will balance each other out,
then they spin up the crank to be sure it is balanced, removing material
where necessary to make it balance out. Mine needed the flywheel to be
drilled a little and the balancer as well. The charge on my receipt (had
to dig it out this morning for something else, aren't you lucky :) shows a
list price of 160.93, but a charge of only 128.75. Go figure.

Hope this helps

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:15:54 -0400
From: "Parsons, Raymond"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering gear box

I need to know if a 70-73 manual gearbox is a direct replacement for a 67.
Thanks,
Ray
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:28:44 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Explorer package, was: truck info

>Does anyone have the following info ?: I have a 1979 F-250 Supercab. It
says F->250 custom on both sides on the fenders, it also has the word
'custom ' on the >glove box door, and it says 'Explorer' on both sides on
the rear of the bed. What >do CUSTOM and EXPLORER signify? Thank you in
advance.
>
The "Explorer" packages were specially grouped options, a forerunner to the
"Special Value Packages" that Ford and every other manufacturer uses now to
cut down on the combinations of vehicles they have to make. There was
usually 3 different levels, Explorer Package "A", "B", and "C". The
Explorer package was in addition to the trucks trim level (trim level
mostly refers to the seat covering, door panels, and carpet or mats on the
floor, although other options were included in upgraded trim levels, such
as "light group" or "convenience group"), that's why you have a truck
labeled both Custom and Explorer. Your truck has either package "A" or "B"
because package "C" included Ranger trim. In '79, trim levels were Custom,
Ranger, Ranger XLT, and Ranger XLT Lariat.

You would probably have to run down some period literature to find out what
exactly each Explorer package contained.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:01:25 -0600
From: "Jamey Moss"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Parts Vendor Request

Bob wrote:
> Does anyone on the list know of any vendor(s) in the country who
sell
> specialized parts, such as tail and signal light lenses, door
weatherstrip,
> etc. for Ford trucks in our age range here. I have a 72 F-100 in need
of
> lenses and door weatherstrip, among other things, and am trying to
avoid
> going to my friendly, helpful, price gouging Ford dealer to order the
parts.
> Any info would be greatly appreciated..........Bob

I've assembled a few links to the various parts suppliers for 67-72 Ford
trucks that I've found. The full list can be found at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.prismnet.com/~jamey/f100/links.html If you find any other
ones, please let me know what I'm missing. FWIW, I purchased my door
weatherstripping and vent window gaskets from Dennis Carpenter
Reproductions (really good quality), and their catalog has step-by-step
instructions with pictures for installing all the gaskets.

Jamey
ra4001 email.sps.mot.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.prismnet.com/~jamey/f100/


- --



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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:57:04 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Parts Vendor Request

Try Autokrafters (800) 228 7346.

Don't buy the weatherstrip from JCW, mine all cracked and was falling apart
within a year. You'll have to spend about $75-$100 for a good set of door
weatherstrip....

JCW does have a great thing with those plastic fender liners they
sell....sure keeps things clean, especially the inside of those 67-72 front
fenders that are notorious for rusting out at the bottom just in front of the
door....

CJ
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:57:11 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Factory or other limited slip for dana 60 rear

Hey Ox-Man,

I have the Dana "Power Lok" setup in my 60, and it is indeed
rebuildable...just put in a new set of clutches. Dana also has something
called a "Trak Lok" which is a less aggressive model.....I have this in the
front 44.

The Power Lok I have came out of a 69 F-100 Dana 60-2 (5-lug, semi-floating)
and fit right into the 72 Dana 60 full floater housing....except, the axles I
had were 16 spline and the Power Lok was 30 spline (or something close to
this). After a big search through junkyards and my Dana supplier, I ended up
with a set of Moser axles, that weren't much more than the new Dana units....

Now comes the trouble, if I remember, seems like the Power Loks cost about
$450....which was interesting, because the Trak Lok was closer to $180 (this
is the entire carrier, etc. for the 44).

Just check your 4x4 magazines, seems like there are about 10 people selling
every brand of limited slip. I found the most effective way is to write down
exactly what you are looking for and fax it to them. Its real nice to compare
written quotes....

CJ



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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:12:52 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH? Not Much.

Thanks for your message at 01:01 AM 4/29/99 EDT, Bad4dFilly aol.com. Your
message was:
>Howdy again y'all! Well, my question this time is: How much is too much? I
>just got 2 specialty horns for my truck that I am installing tomorrow
>a wolf whistle and the other has a bunch of different animal sounds,
melodies
>etc.> and I am really wanting to get a small blacklight inside the cab, a CB
>radio, offroad lights on my sportbar etc.
>ain't made of money LOL> all of which use power and I am wondering how this
>all will affect my battery, alternator or overall power load etc. Will too
>many accessories overload my system? How can I prevent this? Not go
accessory
>crazy? LOL Thanks y'all..any help would be appreciated!

Of course the more stuff you put on (and have turned on), the more load you
are putting on your electrical system. Consider relays, switches, etc...My
father fried his headlight switch from having too many running lights.

Sounds like you are trying for meretricious beauty...


Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:43:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Colors and being A.R.

wish wrote:
> I was also thinkin of puttin a satin finish black on the pulleys and
> brackets ... any suggestions ?

If you are looking for a high temp paint, I used Rustoleum Barbeque
Black on my radiator and fan shroud. It looks more satin than flat.
Heck I may just clean up my BBQ and paint it too. Nah.

> The motor should look pretty good, lets just hope it runs as good!
> I've got chrome valve covers and oilpan, everything else (not mentioned
> above) is the darker ford blue, ...

Sounds good. I wish I used the dark blue on mine. At the time I was
thinking I wanted the original color. Also on chrome valve covers, I
looked high and low for aluminum ones for FE's. Couldn't find them
anywhere so I got the Motorsport chrome. Looks like PAW has finned
aluminum covers that say COBRA on them. Polished or black. Darn!
My chrome ones are rusting already.

Mark in Southwest Washington
www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:44:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Enughf is too much

You would think that an alternator could take
anything that you could through at it bub once I
turned on my 6 800,000 Candel Watt KC Lites the
battery went from new to nill, Amplefiers doesn't
pull as much juice as OFF ROAD lites do and if you
plan to use the lights I would suggest investing in a
beefed up or second alternator and a second battery
for your lighting accessorys.

Texas
1972 F250 4x4 toy
1972 F250 4x2 work truck




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:48:52 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Colors and being A.R.

>If you are looking for a high temp paint, I used Rustoleum Barbeque
>Black on my radiator and fan shroud. It looks more satin than flat.
>Heck I may just clean up my BBQ and paint it too. Nah.
>
Hey good idea, I'm runnin errands over lunch I'll pick some of that up!


>Sounds good. I wish I used the dark blue on mine. At the time I was
>thinking I wanted the original color.

I debated that (staying "stock"), but then look at all the different years
of the truck, what would "stock" be anyway ??? 'Course yours might
actually be just one truck, or mostly one, mine's like 4 ....

Also on chrome valve covers, I
>looked high and low for aluminum ones for FE's. Couldn't find them
>anywhere so I got the Motorsport chrome. Looks like PAW has finned
>aluminum covers that say COBRA on them. Polished or black. Darn!
>My chrome ones are rusting already.
>
Check the 'stang stuff, you can find them all over the place, Tony Branda
has some that say LeMans on them, others that say Cobra or Cobra 428 I
think .... lots of different ones. But look at the price on them! Like
$130 or so for the pair ... seemed steep to me, but then I don't NEED
aluminum either :) Course I didn't NEED chrome, but it looks good :) Mine
are the factory ones with the square around the Power By Ford type, kinda
unique I think since everyone else has the "script" Power By Ford on their
chrome ones ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:04:21 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Anti-Seize

Actually they claim that you won't need to tune it up for 100K. They don't
say that the vehicle is "maintenance free". All of the recommended services
still apply it's just that the spark plugs supposedly don't need replacing
for 100K. However, you are right about the "mentality" aspect of their
advertising. It is sort of deceptive since the only thing they have changed
is the plug replacement intervals and in some cases the coolant replacement
intervals. All of the filters and LOFs remain the same.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: William L. Ballinger
To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 5:03 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Anti-Seize



>The aluminum content of the newer engines, combined with the 100,000
>miles without lifting the hood mentality really kills me.


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:10:40 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Anti-Seize

>Actually they claim that you won't need to tune it up for 100K. They don't
>say that the vehicle is "maintenance free".


Have you guys seen the ad for the foreign car that claims you can
"practically" weld the hood shut ... all I keep thinkin is "Man I hope
that headlight doesn't burn out, cause you have to do that through the hood
on those ...." You know other stuff will go wrong, but just all the
complications that are introduced ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 11:00:19 -0400
From: David Henderson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Since we're talking about engine colors

Since we're talking about engine colors, here's what mine is going to look
like. I dipped all of the covers (except the aluminum timing cover) and then
removed all latent rust (the engine I'm restoring had been out in a friend's
yard. It was free...what can I say) and then primer-ed them. I first painted
the "Power by Ford" script on the valve cover the dark Ford blue, taped that up
and then painted the rest of it a satin flat black. All of the other covers
and water pump are the same satin flat black. This weekend I'm going to do the
same thing I did to the valve covers to my new 4bbl. intake from Clifford, paint
the "Clifford" part dark Ford blue and the rest satin flat black (remember, I'm
doing a 300 I6). The block and head will be the dark Ford red.

As for an update on the engine rebuild status. I got the crank back from the
machinist today. Going to take the block and head over to a different
machinist who supposedly bores each cylinder to fit individual pistons this
coming Saturday morning. I still do not have all of the head kit from Clifford
in yet and should receive my headers from them early next week. Looks like in
two weeks I should be able to put everything back together.

Thanks!!

Dave H
1979 F250 4x4 300 I6 (soon to be a "torque-monster")

- --
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 11:28:21 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Parts Vendor Request

Bob asked:
> Does anyone on the list know of any vendor(s) in the country who sell
> specialized parts, such as tail and signal light lenses, door
> weatherstrip, etc. for Ford trucks in our age range here.

I was at the Carlisle, PA show last week, and I picked up a catalog from
"Midwest Early Ford". The catalog is for 1961-72 Ford Truck and is labeled
"$4.00", but it was free at the show. It's a good catalog with plenty to
look at, but I haven't ordered anything yet. They also had lots of parts
for the earlier Ford trucks, too, if anyone needs those.

Midwest Early Ford, (800) 543-5035.

- -don

- ---
Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon
Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:19:47 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Since we're talking about engine colors

>Since we're talking about engine colors, here's what mine is going to look
>like. I dipped all of the covers (except the aluminum timing cover) and then
>removed all latent rust (the engine I'm restoring had been out in a friend's
>yard. It was free...what can I say) and then primer-ed them. I first painted
>the "Power by Ford" script on the valve cover the dark Ford blue, taped
that up
>and then painted the rest of it a satin flat black. All of the other covers
>and water pump are the same satin flat black. This weekend I'm going to
do the
>same thing I did to the valve covers to my new 4bbl. intake from Clifford,
>paint
>the "Clifford" part dark Ford blue and the rest satin flat black
(remember, I'm
>doing a 300 I6). The block and head will be the dark Ford red.
>

Wow, that's gotta be a wicked combination! sure to turn a few heads I'll
bet!


>As for an update on the engine rebuild status. I got the crank back from the
>machinist today. Going to take the block and head over to a different
>machinist who supposedly bores each cylinder to fit individual pistons this
>coming Saturday morning. I still do not have all of the head kit from
Clifford
>in yet and should receive my headers from them early next week. Looks like in
>two weeks I should be able to put everything back together.
>
Good luck with things, I know I have been saying just another month for the
last 3 ... 'course it took longer to get it out of the shop than I'd
thought ... hey with fewer cylinders you should be able to get done in
3/4ths the time right ? :)

Keep us updated, I deifinitely want to see pics of this one!


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 11:31:07 -0400
From: "Tim Green"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Vendor Request

> Does anyone on the list know of any vendor(s) in the country who sell
>specialized parts, such as tail and signal light lenses, door weatherstrip,
>etc. for Ford trucks in our age range here. I have a 72 F-100 in need of
>lenses and door weatherstrip,

Two of the best are:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ in Charlotte, NC 800-476-9653

and

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.macsautoparts.com/ in Lockport, NY 800-777-0948

- -Tim

www.ctel.net/~oldfords
66 F-100 428 P.I. (Screaming Yellow Zonker)
87 F150 4.9
55 Mainline 289 (The Flivver)
87 Mustang 2.3
81 Mustang 2.3

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 12:27:02 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ford Truck vendors

I forgot to mention my favorite catalog parts vendor -- Mac's, in NY. They
only carry Ford parts, and they have *14* different catalogs for different
Ford vehciles. There is a Ford P/U (49-72) catalog, and all catalogs are
FREE. They use Ford part numbers, so finding things is easy. I've always
had good service through them as I order fairly often for my Falcons. They
are they only company I know of that has a separate first generation
Econoline catalog.

MAC's (800) 777 - 0948

- -don

- ---
Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon
Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:45:19 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze

>>Would you leave by, say, hopping in your V*ga and driving away???

marko,

I did own a V*ga back in the mid 70s. It made several trips on a tow hook.
I take it that you have a good idea of where I got my distaste for aluminum
engine components. I also owned a Grand Am, a Cutlass Calais, several
HT4100 Cadillacs both rear drive and front drive. They all had one thing in
common. They were continuously needing attention in the engine compartment
and all required special cooling additives to pamper the aluminum heads and
blocks. They leaked coolant in various places. The V*ga used as much oil as
it did gasoline. The Cadillacs were under powered and over priced and three
of them left me stranded away from home. The 4th one never stranded me but
the warning lights periodically would light up like a shuttle launch
control panel. No one in the state of Texas could fix them and plenty
tried. Like my signature line says, Dearborn IRON............

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 11:24:02 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rusty colored coolant

Josh,

I thought of something else that may be causing your rusty colored coolant.
If someone put some stop leak in the system somewhere along the line, it
may be slowly dissolving now and would look very much like rust. It may
have had some rust trapped in its clot even. Since your engine is new, what
about your radiator. If it is new and/or freshly flushed and vatted, then
just dismiss this as the errant ramblings of an old ******* (fill in the
blank).

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:37:23 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power assist question

This is a question for all you power assist experts.
I own a 74 250 4X4 and the power assist only seems to work when I turn
left, and not when I turn right. Would the problem lie in the cylinder
ram itself or in the control valve.

p.s maybe i'll just have to perform the swap!!

Thanks
Kirk Baillie
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 12:38:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford76 webtv.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - EGR

Besides making my truck run like crap is a bad egr bad for my engine?

Julia

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 11:40:56 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze

>I did own a V*ga back in the mid 70s. It made several trips on a tow hook.
>I take it that you have a good idea of where I got my distaste for aluminum
>engine components. I also owned a Grand Am, a Cutlass Calais, several
>HT4100 Cadillacs both rear drive and front drive.


Wow, no offense but you picked all the winners didn't you ? I suppose the
Gutless was a Quad 4 as well ? From what I hear the Neon could be your
next car...

I think most of the problem with this approach is the aluminum head on a
steel block ... different expansion rates can't be good for the gaskets ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 12:12:03 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - R-12 substitutes

Well gang,

I have read what I can about R-12 substitutes. Can anyone give me the quick
and dirty low down on propane? Quantities needed? Special equipment for
servicing? Let your unwanted brother-in-law who smokes check the service
valves for leaks? TIA.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 13:20:12 -0400
From: "Graves, Greg"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Part Needed

Hi Everyone,

I posted this request on the classifieds the other day, but I wanted to ask
here also in case not everybody reads the classifieds on a regular basis. I
need a complete choke cable assembly for a '67 F100/350. The previous owner
cut part of mine off so it's now useless. Didn't know if anyone that has
done a swap to a carb. w/ automatic choke might still have the old choke
cable. E-mail privately if you want to.

Thanks in advance

Greg Graves
Facilities Services
UNC-Chapel Hill
GGraves fac.unc.edu

1967 F350 Stake Bed
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 14:22:13 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Bondo on your valve covers ???

>Can I use Bondo to fill any of the small dents in the
>valve covers? I have beat them out the best I can.
>Has anyone tried this? Will it take the heat of the
>engine compartment? How about the Bondo with
>fiber glass? Any help would be appreciated.

umm ... bondo ??
I don't think it would stand up very well to the repeated
thermal expansion/contraction as you run the engine
up to temperature and let it cool while yer not driving ..
You might try grinding the paint off to the bare metal
and filling the dents and dings with some good no-lead
solder, and sandin them smooth. Paint over it with
some good high-temp engine paint, and if ya did a
good solder and sand job, it would be hard to tell that
they ever were dinged up.
[ WARNING: sounds easier than it actually is ..]
JB Weld might be an option, too, but I have not actually
noted its tolerance for repeated thermal shock.


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 13:25:45 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Bondo on your valve covers ???

>JB Weld might be an option, too, but I have not actually
>noted its tolerance for repeated thermal shock.
>
Dad saw a reputable machine shop use the stuff to repair a head once ...
not a combustion chamber crack, but an external one of some sort ... anyway
if they trust it to stay in during those heat cycles ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 15:05:05 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 429 PI

Elliott writes: >>for a fellow that acquired, and then decided not to use, a
429 police
interceptor. Price unknown, it has not been rebuilt, if someone is
interested, email me and I will give the machinists phone number. It is in
middle TN.

I'd like the phone # fir whoever has this engine. IF it has the correct head
castring #'s, then I would definately be interested.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.(90 miles south of Nashtown, Tn)


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 12:06:38 PDT
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - PRCA mudflaps

I tried to get some info from the tack shop that I've ordered the
mudflaps from in the past. The owner/operator is out of town for the
rest of the week, I'll have to check back the beginning of next
week. So it'll be a few days. But I let you know what I find out.

Marty

_______________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 15:58:41 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tool box

Stoney writes: >>I've been told that the tool box in the passenger side of the
bed was on the Ranger models in the mid to late '70's.

My '74 F150 Ranger 4X4 had this option.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 14:25:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Since we're talking about engine colors

Wish wrote:
> >two weeks I should be able to put everything back together.
> >
> Good luck with things, I know I have been saying just another month for the
> last 3 ... 'course it took longer to get it out of the shop than I'd
> thought ... hey with fewer cylinders you should be able to get done in
> 3/4ths the time right ? :)

My last (foreign) six cyl took the idiot about 1 mo / hole. I now
support a new machinist, and had thoughts about moving to the
other coast to support Jim & Stu's favorite, and I really
wouldn't care what color the valves springs he wants to use:-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 14:40:14 -0700
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: anti sieze

Howdy folks,

Regarding anti sieze - ever since I broke two sockets and a ratchet, bent a
breaker bar, and eventually broke the lug stud off on my folks car back in
the seventies trying to get a stuck lug nut off, I have always put a small
bit of heavy grease (wheel bearing is best) on each stud as I put the nuts
back on. I've never had another stuck one. I have also never had one come
loose. Another practice I have is if anyone (another shop or whatever) puts
the lugs on with an impact wrench, I loosen all nuts back home and re torque
by hand so I can get the #$% #$ things off out in the middle of nowhere.

Also I have never used anti sieze on sparkplug, just be careful of
crossthreading, stripping, and over tightening.

Tom
Reno,NV
62 F113 4x4
97 FXD
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 14:54:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance

Someone asked:
> >I was just curious how a machine shop goes about balancing an engine like an
> >FE. Can somebody briefly explain the process? Is $165 a fair price?
> >

Pistons are matched (weight) +/- a gram or two, as are the rods
(total rod weight, along with big end and small end weight). All
of this is done by grinding or milling on non-critical spots. A
weight representing the piston/rod combo weight is then placed
on each crank throw (Can't think of the name of this thing, CRS!),
and the crank is spin balanced. The flywheel, clutch pressure
plate, and harmonic balancer (crank pully) are then neutral
balanced individually, usually by drilling holes around the
perimeter. 'Neutral balance' means that if the part is suspended
from its center point, it will lie flat and not tip to one side.
If the engine is 'externally balanced (some FEs are), then the
crank, flywheel, and pully are balanced as an assembly. This
is the case when there isn't enough mass in the crank counter
weights to properly balance the crank by itself.

$165 sounds about right.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 15:20:42 -0700
From: "Terry Pendergrass"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sliding rear window for 73 -86

I seen this listing on http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auction.fairmarket.com and thought some of you might be interested.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.fairmarket.com/Scripts/ListingInfo.asp?LotNo=138119&SiteCatNo=8

It's listed for $39

Terry
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://pages.hotbot.com/fan/65fordf100/index.html


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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 19:17:24 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH? Not Much.

well besides that, it just gets flat out confusing, unless you buy colro
coded wire, but who does.. I all kinds of electrical stuff on the 78 f150
i used to have, it drove me nutz...

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 10:18 AM 4/29/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Thanks for your message at 01:01 AM 4/29/99 EDT, Bad4dFilly aol.com. Your
>message was:
>>Howdy again y'all! Well, my question this time is: How much is too much? I
>>just got 2 specialty horns for my truck that I am installing tomorrow

>>a wolf whistle and the other has a bunch of different animal sounds,
>melodies
>>etc.> and I am really wanting to get a small blacklight inside the cab, a
CB
>>radio, offroad lights on my sportbar etc.
>>ain't made of money LOL> all of which use power and I am wondering how this
>>all will affect my battery, alternator or overall power load etc. Will too
>>many accessories overload my system? How can I prevent this? Not go
>accessory
>>crazy? LOL Thanks y'all..any help would be appreciated!
>
>Of course the more stuff you put on (and have turned on), the more load you
>are putting on your electrical system. Consider relays, switches, etc...My
>father fried his headlight switch from having too many running lights.
>
>Sounds like you are trying for meretricious beauty...
>
>
>Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA
>
>1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
>1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
>1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
> I shortened this to only FT's
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 16:18:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance

I wrote:

[Balance details snipped]

> $165 sounds about right.

One thing to ask is to make sure detailed records are either
kept by the machine shop, or given to you. That way if anything
ugly happens during assembly, the job can possibly be repeated
on a new individual part without having to re-balance the entire
engine. It's been known to happen :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 16:46:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: How much is to much?

Someone wrote:
> Howdy again y'all! Well, my question this time is: How much is too much? I
> just got 2 specialty horns for my truck that I am installing tomorrow
> a wolf whistle and the other has a bunch of different animal sounds,
> melodies
> etc.> and I am really wanting to get a small blacklight inside the cab, a CB
> radio, offroad lights on my sportbar etc.
> ain't made of money LOL> all of which use power and I am wondering how this
> all will affect my battery, alternator or overall power load etc. Will too
> many accessories overload my system? How can I prevent this? Not go
> accessory crazy? LOL Thanks y'all..any help would be appreciated!

Well, most of those 'accesories' don't use power all the time,
just fuse each individually, and don't overload existing existing
switches with the extra current (use relays). If you're really
worried, install a good voltmeter and learn how to use it to keep
an eye on your battery.

James replied:
> [Big snip] Seriously I have had my one amp that puts out
> around 600 Watts which was nothing to the charging system on all the cars I
> have owned, including (sad to say) a voltswagon Scirroco. Now if a weenie
> Voltswagon charging system could handle 1000 watts total (I din't have just
> one amp:))Then I think just about any Ford could handle whatever you could
> [remainder snipped]

Well, stereo wattages have been know to be slightly inflated:-).
Lets see, 600 watts at twelve volts is, hmmm, 50 amps. Just for
grins, check out the fuse on that stereo. I'll bet it's no more
than about 15 amps, which, at 100% efficiency, is about 90 watts
per channel. A 15 amp fuse will eventually blow at a continuous
15 amp level, so they are derated to about 80%, or about 12 amps.
That's more like 72 watts/channel, again at 100% efficiency. Now,
your kilowatt stereo may have been able to put out a kilowatt,
but it would be, at best, a peak power rating, and it can't do
that for very long (think milli-seconds).

Typical HD truck alternators are about 50-60 amps (600-700 watts),
100 to 120 amp alternators are available, but at quite a premium.
Motorola alternators (used on some Scirrocos, like the one I used
to own) put out about 30-40 amps. I would imagine the Bosch built
alternators rest are similar.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 20:01:57 -0400
From: "stevegoins"
Subject: Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts Vendor Request

I've found autokrafters( www.auto krafters. com ) and Dennis Pearson
Reproductions( www.dennispearson.com)
to both be reliable for weatherstrip,gaskets seals and those other hard to
find small but nagging things.

steve
63 F-100




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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 20:13:48 -0400
From: "stevegoins"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re: 61 tailgate

hey brian,

the years you are looking for are 60-65 (HELP on this one guys ?) depending
on style (Uni-body or standard) and bed style step-side or standard.

The bad news is that these had a nasty habit of rusting out from the inside
at the bottom on out. By the time you discovered it , TOO LATE !!.

If you are lucky enough to find one in good shape in the mid-Atlantic area
expect to pay out of the nose and your first born too . $500.00 or more.

If you find a second one lemme know.

Steve
63 F-100



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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 21:38:21 -0400
From: "Gayland Crutchfield"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gen. FORD vs. Reproduction??

Just curious as to experiences in purchasing genuine FORD parts
vs. reproductions. Example:I'm looking at chrome headlamp doors
for '79 F-150...in (AutoKrafters) catalog the genuine's are
$68.95 and the repro's are $22.95. Are the genuine's that much
better? Any advice out there??
Crutch 59F-100 & 79F-150

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 23:07:54 EDT
From: Mouse2Mann aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine wires

I've been cleaning, repairing, fixing, stuff on my 62 Unibody 235 and I
noticed that the condensor or capacitors' wire is broke off , also the wire
from the bottom of the distributor is not attatched to anything. The truck
starts and runs well, but where are these wire supposed to go. As long as I
asking questions. When I redid my brakes one of the linings on the rear shoes
is thicker than the other. Did I get the right linings? Mouse2Mann aol.com
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 23:18:01 EDT
From: JefriHansn aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 79 F-150 4WD TRANNY

Anybody out there in or around the North Chicago/Great Lakes Naval
Base know where a guy can get a new or rebuilt NP435 tranny? I've searched
the world over and thought I had found one, I saved my pennies and ........
they went outta buisness (Cherry Hill Automotive in Mundeline - or at least
thier phone's been disconnected - not a good sign). I found a used one in
the bone yard today - went to look at it, been sitt'n, opened, in the dirt
"since about 95". Guy actually wanted 250 bucks for all that rust. Told him
he could keep "want'n".
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 23:49:27 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance

this is how i used to do it. weigh all the pistons with the pins, drill the
heavier pistons until they all weigh the same as the lightest one. weigh the
large end of the rod, grind off material from cap till they weigh the same,
next weigh the whole rod, then grind the small end until they all weigh the
same, weigh the rings, brgs etc, work out the formula ( can't remember how).
the crank with the balancer, flywheel, and weights to similate the rod and
piston weights is turned in a balancing machine, then the counter balancers
are drilled till you get a vibration free assembly, similar to balancing a
tire. 165.00 is a good price, some don't think its worth the expense on
street engines, but i do. the winston cup cars might last 250 miles if they
were not balanced.
did i leave out anything? its been a long time since i did any balancing.
jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 23:57:57 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Balance

good point, i had to refer back to our records from time to time.
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 22:57:50 -0500
From: "Ted Stringfellow"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine wires

The condensor is largely a noise filter. How does your radio sound? Not
sure about the distributor wire.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mouse2Mann aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 10:13 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine wires


>I've been cleaning, repairing, fixing, stuff on my 62 Unibody 235 and I
>noticed that the condensor or capacitors' wire is broke off , also the
wire
>from the bottom of the distributor is not attatched to anything. The truck
>starts and runs well, but where are these wire supposed to go. As long as
I
>asking questions. When I redid my brakes one of the linings on the rear
shoes
>is thicker than the other. Did I get the right linings? Mouse2Mann aol.com
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>

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 21:24:51 -0700
From: bill dunn
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Point ignition

Was reading a while back about a discussion on what the function of the
capacitor (condenser) was in a point ignition and the conclusion was not
totally correct. I am a little behind on reading the posts so if
someone has already covered this subject pleas accept my apologies for
taking up space on the list, if it has been covered maybe ken can delete
it.

I have had no formal training in auto mechanics (just work on my own
stuff, and sometimes the wife's and kids and dogs and cats stuff) so if
someone who has finds an error please correct it for the list.

In the post the writer made the statement "I think the capacitor is used
to increase the voltage for the plugs" or something of that nature, I do
not have the post for the exact statement. The writer is partially
correct but not in the way I think he was thinking.

The point ignition system has been with us for a long time and is really
pretty basic, and not a whole lot of parts to the system, the points,
plugs, some wires, a distributor, and of course the coil and a
capacitor.

A little basics: The coil or to be correct is a auto transformer, that
is a transformer that uses three wires instead of four for operation.
It is a step up transformer of course stepping up the voltage from 6vdc
to over 25000vdc depending on the application. Yes that is correct most
point systems use only six volts for the ignition, 12 to start the
engine but six to run, thus the purpose of the step down resistor or
resistor wire. As you all know a transformer cannot pass dc current but
must be a form of ac, thus the reason for the points. Earlier I
mentioned the transformer only has three leads for operation, one of
which goes to the plugs, one going to the points, and the third lead,
which is battery voltage and the common lead for both the primary and
secondary windings.

To create the output voltage for the plugs you must first charge up the
primary winding using the 6 volts from the system. The power comes form
the bat to the common terminal on the coil, through the primary winding
and out to the points. When the points are closed the circuit is
completed through ground and the primary windings become saturated, and
creates the primary magnetic field, but at this point nothing else
happens, remember I said a transformer cannot pass DC current, only a
form of AC. It is only when the points open and the primary field
collapses the voltage is induced into the secondary winding creating the
high voltage for the plugs. It is this building up and collapsing of
the magnetic field that creates the output, not the DC current.

Now the function of the capacitor in this whole operation is to prevent
arcing of the points when they open. Any time the points are closed the
capacitor will discharge through them to ground. If the capacitor was
not in the circuit when the points opened, you would get a arc across
the points allowing some of the voltage across the primary to bleed off
and reducing the high voltage output. The purpose of the capacitor is
to prevent this arc and keep the primary E as high as possible. As soon
as the points begin to open the capacitor charges and instead of the
current arcing across the points and being reduced, it can maintain
itself at a full charge. Also at this same time the field begins to
collapse and we get a spark.

I am sure some of you will state that the purpose of the capacitor is to
reduce radio noise. That is a by product of the capacitor, but not its
main function. Any time you have anything arcing it in effect becomes a
transmitter and this noise can be picked up by most radios, the
capacitor prevents the arc, thus preventing the points from becoming a
transmitter......

So you can see the writer was partially correct in his statement "it
increased the voltage to the plugs" but it does it by preventing the
arc, not by adding to the overall field of the primary winding.

Bill
Boise Idaho

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 23:14:08 -0500
From: "Ted Stringfellow"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Part Needed

If you don't have luck, you might try modifying a lawn mower throttle cable.
I remember trying that on one of my Fords back in the 70s.....


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