61-79-list-digest Tuesday, April 27 1999 Volume 03 : Number 142



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - my heater doesn't
FTE 61-79 - Damage to new radiator
FTE 61-79 - do-hickey
FTE 61-79 - rubbing block lube
FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze
Re: FTE 61-79 - FORD COWGIRL HERE!!
FTE 61-79 - speaking of rare 4x4 f250
[none]
Re: FTE 61-79 - This guy wants off--Ha!
Re: FTE 61-79 - my heater doesn't
Re: FTE 61-79 - my heater doesn't
Re: FTE 61-79 - 61-79-FTE Rusty Coolant
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:360FE Swap/Power Steering
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vibrtaion ?
FTE 61-79 - Re: P/S conversion - My Dilemma
Re: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze
Re: FTE 61-79 - '65 (or '66) wiring
Re: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze
FTE 61-79 - F-350 .. diesel or gas ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - F-350 .. diesel or gas ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - F-350 .. diesel or gas ?
FTE 61-79 - FE leak
FTE 61-79 - Radiator repair
FTE 61-79 - 66 Wiring Diagram
FTE 61-79 - are auto and manual trans mounts the same in a 71
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge Show, Information
FTE 61-79 - Tranny Code
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360
Re: FTE 61-79 - my heater doesn't
FTE 61-79 - P/S conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze
FTE 61-79 - 351m - 400 exhaust manifold
FTE 61-79 - Power Steering For Highboys

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 05:22:39 PDT
From: "eldon eversull"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - my heater doesn't

I suffered through the winter, but am now tackling the
problem of a non-functioning heater. I took it out and poured water
from a bottle through it, so it is not plugged. I connected it to the
hoses and ran Fred up to temperature, but the core stays cold. The
hoses are under pressure and have hot water in them (ask me how I know
this). I switched the hoses around, still cold heater core. I even
filled the core with water and connected the hoses (this experiment
made the water in the core green, but no heat).

I thought that maybe since I had added a coolant overflow thing, maybe
that was keeping the water from moving through the core, so
I disconnected it.

And, no it is not the diverter valve, as there is none, just hoses
direct to the core. Help, what am I overlooking?

Eldon, 1964 F100

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:33:33 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Damage to new radiator

>>I had a shop install a new R-134 a/c unit in my truck this last week. They
moved the radiator closer to the fan during this process. The fan was
positioned so close to the radiator that it hit the radiator during the
course of driving. The radiator is now damaged to the point of leaking. I
need your advise on what demands I need to make of this shop. The radiator
is a high efficiency, 4 row that I special ordered from U.S. Radiator. It is
only ~ 6 months old. I don't want a jimmy rig situation. Should I insist
that they pay for a replacement (entire radiator) or a new core? or would
there be a less drastic measure that would be just as good in the long run?
Any advise you can give me would be appreciated.
Thanks, Roberta with 1965 F-100, 240 6 cyl. & 3 speed manual.

Roberta,

If they broke it, they should fix it. A six month old radiator is still
well under warranty and should therefore be treated as a new one. You may
have to go through small claims court in the long run, but these guys owe
you a new radiator, not a patch job on this one. They also owe you a
realignment on the setup so the next one doesn't get chewed, too. Moving
the radiator closer to the fan probably shouldn't have been done anyway.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:46:30 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - do-hickey

>>Should I remove it or should I replace it? It's possible that I may someday
pull a boat. Also, if I removed it, what other problems would that cause.
Right now my brake lights don't come on and I've practically eliminated
everything else.

John K.

John,

I don't know. If it is only part of an old trailer system, I would try to
at least by pass it to see if it cures your problems. If you have an ohm
meter, see if you can test it for continuity and resistance. Check the
wires at either end to see if they are hot either all of the time or when
the brake pedal is depressed. If one side is hot only when the brakes are
depressed and the other side is never hot, bypass it. Unless you are going
to pull a really big boat with electric brakes on the trailer, you won't be
needing this sort of setup. It has nothing to do with the trailer lighting
system, just the brakes. If you do need trailer brakes, I would get a
system that I knew was on right and worked correctly.

Wish and company are most likely correct about it being the nuetral
safety/backup light switch, in which case it is unlikely to have any effect
on your brake lights. The problem is most likely either in the turn signal
switch or the brake light switch itself.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:45:57 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rubbing block lube

>>should some sort of lube or an anti-sieze be
used on the sliding surfaces between the caliper and caliper
support?

Joe,

I use wheel bearing grease applied sparingly with a forefinger. Chassis
grease will melt out easier. My favorite is the Alemite with Teflon in it.
I do the same for the rubbing blocks on shoes, too.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:48:11 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze

>> Amen, I believe there should be a small amount included with every set
>>of spark plugs that are sold!!!!!

Ted, Marko, and anyone else interested in anti-sieze:

No offense intended here, but a lot of people don't realize that there are
torque specs for spark plugs. Under torque and they will fall out. Over
torque and you widen the gap changing your ignition timing and spark
characteristics in the process. All plugs should be started by hand and
then screwed in with your fingers until they touch the seat. If you cannot
turn them by hand, the threads should be chased with the proper tap. I
guarantee that if you follow this procedure you can always get them out and
you will never cross thread one. You will also eliminate an often
overlooked tuneup problem. Two places where anti-sieze shouldn't be used
are spark plugs and lug nuts.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 05:48:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Dixon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FORD COWGIRL HERE!!

For anyone lookin' for the "PRCA, Ford" sticker, I
found it at a litle shop out side of Denver, CO. I
dont ermember the name of the place or even where the
place was, the ooonly thing I remember is that it was
north of Denver.





- ---cannandale netpointe.com wrote:
>
> your not the only guy around here in wranglers,
been in team roping with my
> cousin for about 5 years, just starting to get into
bronk riding... I
> havent seen that ford sticker that your talking
about, but I need one!
>
> cannandale
> '78 F250 4x4, 460
>
> At 10:40 AM 4/23/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >
> > Here is a sticker on the window of my '72 F250 it
> >reads "Ford, the offical truck of the PRCA (Pro
Rodeo
> >Cowboy Ass.)" and one that reads,"This Cowboy
Kicks."
> > that should tell a little about me.
> > I am 18 and from Iowa, I ride Bulls and Bronks,
and
> >I am also a member of the "Iowa Mud Busters Ass."
> > My 1972's with an attitudes, (stats', 1972 Ford
250
> >short box 4x4, rollbar, 6 KC Lites, brush gaurd,
12in
> >suspention lift, 4in body lift, Ruby Red and High
> >gloss Black, with a Tan Mustang painted behind bolth
> >rear wheel wells, and a 460ci with turbo charger.
> > I also have a 1972 Ford 250 sport custom 4x2,
> >primer gray, 6 KC Lites, brush gaurd, headach rack,
> >toolbox, AG bumper, and a 360ci under the hood
with a
> >rebuilt tranny with duce and a half, and Catipiller
> >gears.) And bolth trucks are always equipted with
mud.
> >Texas
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >---Bad4dFilly aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Howdy everybody! Some of ya may know me from the
> >"Offroad" list, but for
> >> those of ya that don't, allow me to introduce
> >myself! *Tippin my Stetson* My
> >> name is Lisa, I'm 16 I
live
> >in Southern California
> >> and I drive a big bad FORD! LOL I bought my first
> >vehicle last month....a
> >> automatic '77 Ford F-150 Ranger 4x4, it's a
> >standard cab short bed lifted 4"
> >> and currently on 33" tires
> >would like to get bigger tires
> >> on it soon, possibly 38"s> and it's Emerald green,
> >so I named her "Envy" =)
> >> I am unsure as to what size engine it has under
the
> >hood, I was under the
> >> impression it was a 400ci bored .030....so I
> >assumed that would make it a
> >> 403, but I have been told it would actually be a
> >408ci
> >> stock, 4.00 bore X 4.00 stroke make 402.12ci> and
> >that size engine bored .030
> >> comes out to 408.17ci. I don't know if thats
> >accurate, just what I've been
> >> told. So as you can see, I have a big engine, but
> >I'm not sure exactly HOW
> >> big it is! LOL Anyways, I LOVE driving it, it's SO
> >much fun! I haven't takin
> >> it 4xing yet, but I hope to soon! I do have a pic
> >of my truck if anyone would
> >> like to see it. I wanna see everyone's truck also!
> >Well, I guess that's about
> >> all, nice to meet y'all and talk to y'all soon!
> >Bye! =)
> >>
> >> *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
> >> *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
> >That's my license plate frame
> >> hehe
> >> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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> >>
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________
> >DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >Get your free yahoo.com address at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
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> >
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:21:02 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - speaking of rare 4x4 f250

>there is a guy here in town that has an unibody f250 4x4, i saw the truck
>briefly, a friend of mine knows the owner and he says the truck is an
>original 4x4. first of all i didn't think there was such a thing as a
unibody
>f250. and second of all i didn't think there was ever a 4x4 unibody f100 or
>250. what gives here? the truck may be for sale and the price maybe right,
it
>looks pretty tuff. i hope i can inspect it closer in the next few weeks.
>
My understanding of this situation is that there were F250 Unibodies, but
only in 2WD. I also think there were no 4x4 Unibodies. The Ford Red Book
says that the Unibody was available on F100 and F250, but was not available
on the F350. Unfortunately, they don't say whether or not 4x4 was a factor.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:29:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: [none]

Good Morning,

I am not sure how this might impact our groups, but I still found
it kind of intresting. The story was covered in news.com

===================================

Ford may drive into Net venture
By Reuters
Special to CNET News.com
April 26, 1999, 5:00 a.m. PT

Ford Motor is expected today to announce that it has formed a business
selling used auto parts through the Internet, an operation that would
serve as a clearinghouse for used auto parts, according to reports.

The auto giant, which on Friday announced it would unveil plans to launch
a new business today, is expected to discuss details about the new unit,
the Wall Street Journal reported today.

The thinking behind forming the new venture is that instead of auto parts
being dumped in junkyards and landfills where they become hard to
retrieve, Ford's new business would become a junkyard on the Internet, the
Journal said, sourcing one of the people familiar with the plans.

The new unit's likely customers would include insurance companies and
adjusters, collision repair companies and consumers seeking repair parts,
the newspaper said.

Under the system, customers could request a certain part online and the
Ford unit would express mail the part to them. In addition to Ford parts,
the unit is expected to sell parts for a wide variety of cars, the
newspaper said.

Story Copyright 1999 Reuters Limited. All rights reserved.




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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 06:35:14 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - This guy wants off--Ha!

Thanks for your message at 08:34 PM 4/24/99 EDT, DocrFate aol.com. Your
message was:
>Hi. Thank you for your mail, but I only needed one question answered about a
>Ford truck for a friend, and that has been answered. Now every day, I get
>tons of mail about Ford trucks. Could you please, tell me how to get off
this
>mailing list? Thank you very much.
It's called a List-serv and that's how it works. You're subscribed for
life. You didn't think that answer was free, did you...?


Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:36:31 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - my heater doesn't

In a message dated 4/26/99 8:28:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
eee64f100 hotmail.com writes:

> The hoses are under pressure and have hot water in them (ask me how I
know
> this). I switched the hoses around, still cold heater core.

Eldon:
Where do you have each of the hoses connected? There was a thread on
this issue sometime ago. Without any scientific data to support the next
statement, I will say that the core functions better when the hoses are
hooked up to the proper inlet and outlet. Which one is which you say? I
always label the one nearest the passenger side as the inlet. I run from
the water pump to the heater core inlet then from the outlet to the intake
port (or if you have a carb heater then to that connection). Get come
compressed air and blow through all of your hoses, the core and the intake
port to make sure it isn't plugged. Another issue that can be a problem is
an air lock; trapped air in the system which can prevent the flow of coolant.
I see you filled the core up at one point. Use a garden hose to pre-charge
the core and both hoses before you make the connections to the motor.

Last item: make sure your thermostat is the proper temp and working.
You will not have heat otherwise.

I hope this helps.


Stock Man
(a/k/a Thom B.)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:55:23 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - my heater doesn't

I took it out and poured water
>from a bottle through it, so it is not plugged. I connected it to the
>hoses and ran Fred up to temperature, but the core stays cold. The
>hoses are under pressure and have hot water in them (ask me how I know
>this). I switched the hoses around, still cold heater core. I even
>filled the core with water and connected the hoses (this experiment
>made the water in the core green, but no heat).
>

So the core is actually staying cold ... on some of the newer cars they
have had to put in restrictors to slow the coolant down was the reason I
heard, this way they actually get the heat out, otherwise it just flies
through the core and doesn't actually heat things up.

The hoses are getting warm ? Warm as in hot from the water inside, or warm
as in picking up heat from the compartment ? If you are bottoming out one
of the hoses (the intake one for instance), you could be blocking the flow
there so that they aren't letting enough through ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:57:40 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 61-79-FTE Rusty Coolant

> My heater core went out of my truck the other day ago and I started
>to fix it last night. Upon draining my coolant I noticed that it was
>slightly rusty in color.
> *Question*: Should my coolant be perfectly greenish-clear or is
>the noticable rust discoloration normal under these conditions?

It says you've got an FE, mine did/does the same thing (360 is out, 390's
not in yet so can't swear to it), but we had a mechanic tell us that the
casting for the FE left a lot of sand in the water jackets and that's what
was discoloring it. How bad is the discoloration you're getting, mine was
pretty bad, so we had the guy flush the system and things got better, then
the last few months before the 360 came out, I was replacing everything so
often it wasn't discoloring at all, so it either came out with the
radiator, or eventually did flush itself all out.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:58:26 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:360FE Swap/Power Steering

>also how can I tell if the 360 is an FE model
>

Uhm ... all 360's are FE models ...

Did I miss something on this question ?

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:02:10 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360

>This is the first time I have posted to so I apologies for any gaffes in
>advance. My problem is that I have a 1976 F-150 that won't pass
>California visual smog check (they would not put it on the machine even
>at the referee station). This year of truck should have an air pump but
>at some point the engine was apparently changed.

What makes you say this ? The fact that the station is telling you this?
I have a 76 390 that did not have an AIR pump on it, it had all the
brackets that it needed, and there was no spot for an AIR pump. It was my
understanding that the whole point behind the F150 was that it put the
truck over the requirement for the cats and air pump for that year.
Personally I've never seen an AIR pump on an FE. Doesn't meant they didn't
do it, just that I haven't seen it.

I don't know if the
>engine that is currently in the truck ever had an air pump. This one
>does have EGR and a charcoal canister.

My 73ish HAD this, doesn't now :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 10:01:12 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vibrtaion ?

>Noticeable at highway speeds. Only when I let off the throttle. Still there
>in neutral.
>
>Any ideas?

>'70 Mustang Grabber Sportsroof

Hmmm... have you checked the rear end ? Sounds like what happened when the
spider gear went out of my truck ... actually the spider gear froze and
took the ring and pinion out with it. My g.f.'s 'stang did the same thing
(7.5" rear on hers, D44 on mine)

If you still have it in neutral that means its somewhere after the D.S.,
maybe start with the wheels, have them balanced or rotate them to be sure
that's not it. Also be sure all the lug nuts are tight ... To check the
rear end you might put it in neutral, leave the rear wheels on the ground
and see how far you can twist the d.s. by hand ... if its quite a ways, or
quite a bit of slop, that points right to the rear gears.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:05:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: P/S conversion - My Dilemma

Sparky wrote:
>> If anyone wants more info on the power steering swap just drop me
>> an email.

J.S.H replied:
> I think there is enough interest to post to the list any info you
> would like to share on the conversion.It seems like quite a few of
> us have the power assist set-up.

I second this. Post it to the list. I am right in the middle of
deciding what to do about my steering. It is so loose it is unsafe
to drive at highway speeds. The assist stuff all seems to be
working and is not leaking too bad. I think I could get by with a
rebuilt box.

I was quoted $250 to rebuild my box. Another option is to try
rebuilding it myself. I am sure I can get the bearings, but where
do I find the seals? I skimmed through the Ford manual and it
looks like there are some shims used to adjust end play in the
worm gear. Are those available?

I was also quoted $1-1.2K by a well known shop to do the conversion
using a Saginaw box from a Dodge. I am not sure what the advantage
of this box is. The guy who would rebuild my box for $250 (steering
boxes are pretty much all he does) didn't think they were any easier
to find than the Ford integral ones. I don't really have the money
for this right now.

The final, and most appealing option is to take on the conversion
myself. The problem is, I am not feeling confident enough in my
ability to track down all the right parts, do the work on the frame,
shorten the coupler rod, etc. so the more information I can gather,
the better off I will be.

I am looking for some help. Anyone know of a good reason not to go
with one of these three? Does one option sound better than the
others?

Mark in Southwest Washington
www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4 (the one that needs steering work)
'74 F-250 Supercab
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:38:34 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze

A couple of things to add here. First, it's not always practical/possible to
reach all of the spark plugs with your fingers. Second, every good
professional mechanic I've ever talked to has used anti-seize when replacing
spark plugs in aluminum heads. Third, spark plugs are designed to stay in a
minimum of 30K miles and in newer vehicles up to 100K miles. That's a long
time for some of us and a lot of exposure to the kinds of situations where
rust/corrosion could lead to problems.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone
To: Ford Trucks 61-79
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 5:52 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze


>Ted, Marko, and anyone else interested in anti-sieze:
>
>No offense intended here, but a lot of people don't realize that there are
>torque specs for spark plugs. Under torque and they will fall out. Over
>torque and you widen the gap changing your ignition timing and spark
>characteristics in the process. All plugs should be started by hand and
>then screwed in with your fingers until they touch the seat. If you cannot
>turn them by hand, the threads should be chased with the proper tap. I
>guarantee that if you follow this procedure you can always get them out and
>you will never cross thread one. You will also eliminate an often
>overlooked tuneup problem. Two places where anti-sieze shouldn't be used
>are spark plugs and lug nuts.



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 11:52:58 EDT
From: Mikerenf aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '65 (or '66) wiring

I just ordered a wiring diagram book from ford-trucks.com browse there lit
section.
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 10:54:29 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze

>professional mechanic I've ever talked to has used anti-seize when replacing
>spark plugs in aluminum heads.

I think this is the key here, the aluminum heads with steel spark plugs
will cause the corrosion to be worse, especially in the combustion chamber
environment. I've actually heard to use the weak loc-tite on the spark
plugs to hold them in.

Third, spark plugs are designed to stay in a
>minimum of 30K miles and in newer vehicles up to 100K miles. That's a long
>time for some of us and a lot of exposure to the kinds of situations where
>rust/corrosion could lead to problems.
>
From what I've heard they really shouldn't be left in that long especially
if you're looking for the performance gains.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:01:34 -0500
From: "James Petty"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F-350 .. diesel or gas ?

I hope to buy a "pre-owned" F350 4X4 in 6 months ...
I'd like to see what people's thoughts are about the
best engine to have in a 2 ton is....

Gas mileage is important but so is noise level.

Thanks
James Petty
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:05:21 -0500
From: "James Petty"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F-350 .. diesel or gas ?

I should have reread my message ... a F350 is a 1 ton ... lol...
sorry ... I was not looking at what I was typing ..

thanks again..
James Petty

>>> "James Petty" 04/26 1:01 PM >>>
I hope to buy a "pre-owned" F350 4X4 in 6 months ...
I'd like to see what people's thoughts are about the
best engine to have in a 2 ton is....

Gas mileage is important but so is noise level.

Thanks
James Petty
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:17:51 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F-350 .. diesel or gas ?

>I hope to buy a "pre-owned" F350 4X4 in 6 months ...
>I'd like to see what people's thoughts are about the
>best engine to have in a 2 ton is....
>
>Gas mileage is important but so is noise level.

I guess it depends on what you're going to do with the truck ... if you use
it for hauling all the time and really need the towing capacity, I'd say go
for the diesel (also handy if you're on a farm/ranch and diesel is plentiful)

If you only tow occasionally, and you don't like the growl of a diesel,
then definitely go for the gas.

Its all gonna come down to personal taste in the end, some like gas, some
like diesel.

Situation and taste will be the final factors


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 11:24:56 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE leak

"I had my engine rebuilt, by a reputable engine shop, into a long
> block. I put on the non stock intake manifold and all of the trim. noticed that there is a little bit of and oil leak comming off of what
> appears to be from the left front intake to head seal. other than that
> every thing seems to be ok."


Fairly common problem on FE engine.The machine shop I deal with has a
syringe with a looong needle they use to squirt silicone into just such
a leak.I would imagine your machine shop would do the same.
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 15:16:52 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Radiator repair

"bertolin" said:
> I had a shop install a new R-134 a/c unit in my truck this last week.
> They moved the radiator closer to the fan during this process. The fan
> was positioned so close to the radiator that it hit the radiator during
> the course of driving. The radiator is now damaged to the point of
> leaking...
(snip)
> Should I insist that they pay for a replacement (entire radiator) or
> a new core? or would there be a less drastic measure that would be just
> as good in the long run?
==

To echo everyone's sentiments -- get the shop to pay for at least a core
replacement (if not an entire repalcement), and have it repaired by U.S
Radiator.

I had the original radiator on my '66 Club Wagon repaired in March. It was
repaired by the owner of an old time radiator shop, and he used high temp
plastic. He insisted that the plastic was as strong or stronger than any
other type of repair, and since I just wanted to keep the truck going, I
agreed to it. Well, the radiator blew open about 2 weeks ago. What a mess.
The radiator on the Club Wagon is a pain to remove since you have to take
out the engine box bracket it's mounted to and then drop it out the bottom.

Your radiator is brand new and any repair would look ugly in addition to
being of questionable strength. Good luck getting it taken care of.

- -don

- ---
Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon
Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:51:24 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Wiring Diagram

Sam,
Yes I have a wiring diagram for a 66 F100. E-mail me.

Tim
66 F100 SWB
352 w/OD and P/S
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 19:53:34 -0500
From: "commodore"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - are auto and manual trans mounts the same in a 71

I am changeing my 71 Ford truck from a 4-speed to an automatic and am
wondering if the transmition mounts are the same and in the same location
thanks in advance - Paul

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:45:56 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge Show, Information

Those of you who are interested in attending the 21st Annual
F100 Supernationals in Pigeon Forge Tennessee can join the
Ford Truck Enthusiasts email list for discussion, questions
answered and event information. This is a big event for our
group, last year we had about 30 people there (not including
spouses and families). This year we expect double that
number.

I believe the date for reservations at the two hotels we
had rooms reserved at has passed but there are lots of
lodging alternatives. We are going to have a Saturday
breakfast at the Alan Jackson Cafe and the Georgia LoRiders
(a Ford truck club based in Atlanta) has invited us to
attend their Saturday BBQ.

The show is from May 13-16. Last year there where over 800
trucks in the show from 48s through 98s. This year they are
limiting the newest trucks to 79s due to lack of space.

If you are interested in joining the email list for more
information on this event, send an email to majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the following in the body of the email:

subscribe pfgroup-list youremail address.com

^^^^^Replace the above with your email
address.

If you have trouble joining the email list, email me personally
(kpayne ford-trucks.com) and I'll add you.

Later,
Ken Payne
Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:58:54 -0400
From: William A Whited
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Code

I assume that this code means it is a C6 but just
wanted to check. On my 77 Flairside the tranny has
A
C6AP-70027-0
2
Stamped on the right side of it. The tranny code on the
side of the door is K. Also I can not find any markings
on the rear end. My axle code on the side of the door
is 46J with a GVWR 04900. When I turn the rear wheel
the other wheel goes in the opposite direction. Also
the play that I have seems to be in the diff, is there
anyway I can fix this? Realize I'm down here in GTMO
without a machine shop let alone any shadetree's that
know much more then me. I would like to be able to
rebuilt the tranny and rear axle before I get to the
states and then have the engine rebuilt when I get to
the states. TIA

- --
William A Whited
74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390
77 F100 CUSTOM FLAIRSIDE 302
79 F100 EXPLORER SUPERCAB 302 (PARTS TRUCK)
"IT DON'T GTMO BETTER THEN THIS, SEMPER FI"


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 18:51:06 -0700
From: Dennis Dellinger
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to identify the year of a Ford 360

William
The inspection station told me, the referee station told me, then I called Ford
gave them the VIN number and they said yes it came with an air pump.
Dennis Dellinger

William S Hart wrote:

> >This is the first time I have posted to so I apologies for any gaffes in
> >advance. My problem is that I have a 1976 F-150 that won't pass
> >California visual smog check (they would not put it on the machine even
> >at the referee station). This year of truck should have an air pump but
> >at some point the engine was apparently changed.
>
> What makes you say this ? The fact that the station is telling you this?
> I have a 76 390 that did not have an AIR pump on it, it had all the
> brackets that it needed, and there was no spot for an AIR pump. It was my
> understanding that the whole point behind the F150 was that it put the
> truck over the requirement for the cats and air pump for that year.
> Personally I've never seen an AIR pump on an FE. Doesn't meant they didn't
> do it, just that I haven't seen it.
>
> I don't know if the
> >engine that is currently in the truck ever had an air pump. This one
> >does have EGR and a charcoal canister.
>
> My 73ish HAD this, doesn't now :)
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:26:22 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - my heater doesn't

In a message dated 4/26/99 5:28:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
eee64f100 hotmail.com writes:


direct to the core. Help, what am I overlooking?
>>
Well, something is not right. (Da) There are 3 significant return flows to
the lo pressure side of the water pump. They are the heater, hoses, fittings
and any control valve, the thermostat, hoses, and radiator, and the by-pass
flow.
The fact that truck is not over heating means the water pump is working for
the thermostat and radiator path. The point of going through all of this is
to help me visualize the situation. So, something is probably blocking the
flow path to or from the heater, or there is such a large flow path that
there is not a significant pressure differential left to cause flow to the
heater path. (A missing thermostat could do that) However, with even a very
small flow path open the heater should have gotten hot after a while. I have
found the fittings on the intake manifold to be almost completely rusted full
on several engines I've disassembled. These fitting are usually made of steel
which rusts more readily than cast iron. If this were my truck I would check
both engine fittings where the hoses attach to make sure they are clear all
the way through. And I would verify that the thermostat is installed and
working. Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F250 4x4 460



























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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:54:12 -0700
From: sparky mail.island.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - P/S conversion

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 15:02:22 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
>"To anyone interested I completed the power assist to true power
>steering swap on my truck last night. What a difference :^) It wasnt that
>hard, the hardest part was using the cutting torch on my truck. I was so
happy >I went and swapped the 2v Holley for the 4v Holley off of my parts
truck.
>If anyone wants more info on the power steering swap just drop me an
>email."
>
>
>I think there is enough interest to post to the list any info you would
>like to share on the conversion.It seems like quite a few of us have
>the power assist set-up.

I am in the final stages of writing down the "instructions" and required
parts list. It is fairly long so maybe it would be better to email me
privately for a copy. I dont want to make the list too long and probably
not everyone cares about this conversion.
If the "List Mom" doesnt mind I will post it. It is going to be about 4
pages in Word Perfect.

Sparky
73F250 4x4
390FE 4v
"new and improved with power steering"




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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:58:12 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti-sieze

In a message dated 4/26/99 5:55:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:


are spark plugs and lug nuts.
>>
Amen on cast iron. One of my boys used anti-sieze on his plugs for an FE and
in the process got it on the plug insulator inside and out. Shorted out the
wires and new plugs. Took him all day to get it cleaned off. It took 6
months and another set of plugs before they quit backing out. But, I always
use a little bit on long threaded plugs in aluminum heads. This is where my
son got the wrong idea, from me of course. Aluminum heads are a totally
different animal, and I firmly believe it should to used here to keep me from
removing the head to the machine shop to change my plugs. (experience) I may
have done other things to enhance the galling like trying to remove the plugs
while still hot, but anti-sieze is now my insurance.
Burt Hill Kennewick Wa F250 4x4 460
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:12:01 -0600
From: mclough page.az.net (Michael Clough)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351m - 400 exhaust manifold

Hey all. I am in the process of building up my 400 engine and have found
that I need a passenger side exhaust manifold. I know that this would
normally be a wrecking yard part but unfortunately I live in Page, AZ
which is a very small town that is very far from any cities with....


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