61-79-list-digest Wednesday, April 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 135



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - freon for factoy AC
FTE 61-79 - Re: Make a web site.......2
FTE 61-79 - Re: Vacuum advance
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Vacuum advance
Re: FTE 61-79 - freon for factoy AC
FTE 61-79 - FREE 1999 53-72 F100 catalog
FTE 61-79 - Gas in the oil pan
FTE 61-79 - new exhaust system
FTE 61-79 - Goodbye vibration!
FTE 61-79 - driveshaft vibration
FTE 61-79 - Wondering about a 428
Re: FTE 61-79 - air compressor
Re: FTE 61-79 - Transmission mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wondering about a 428
Re: FTE 61-79 - FREE 1999 53-72 F100 catalog
Re: FTE 61-79 - Removing AC
Re: FTE 61-79 - FREE 1999 53-72 F100 catalog
FTE 61-79 - Re: Redline

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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 16:40:54 -0500
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - freon for factoy AC

I use the new stuff in truck and car. Works fine.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: commodore
To:
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 4:28 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - freon for factoy AC


> I am trying to getting my factory air in my 71 Ranger XLT and have seen
all
> the adds about AC systems. The quetion I have is with the price of R12
being
> so high have any of you converted to the new substutute. If so how does it
> work? I have also heard about useing propane as a substutute. Does this
> work? Thanks for the help
>
> Paul Grussing
> 71 Ranger XLT
> 67 Mustang convertable
>
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>


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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:59:43 -0400
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Make a web site.......2

Hey all,

Thanks to all who gave me feedback on my site. I went and redid the whole
thing. take a look, let me know.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www3.your-net.com/~pmbaker


Mike Baker
1978 Bronco Custom
1978 F-250 Custom 4x4

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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:11:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Vacuum advance

John asks:
> Appreciate your response. When you say I can check the vacuum advance by
> sucking on the hose, does that mean I just have it running, suck on the hose
> connected to the distributor. What should happen?

Well, first, you'll get this awful taste in your mouth, then as
you recoil in disgust, your hair will get caught in the fan, then,
as you try to get out of THAT one, you'll knock a wrench into the
fan . . .

Monitor the timing with your light while 'pulling a vacuum' on
the advance. You should be able to get 15-20 degrees (anyone
have a real number here?) advance at maximum. Leave the vacuum
on for a while to check for slow leaks. Also, make sure
the timing returns to normal after release. You'll notice the
idle speed increase, so the advance you measure will include
some mechanical advance. You can also do this with the distributor
open, just to check and make sure everything is moving and not
stuck.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:30:42 -0500
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Vacuum advance

Thanks. I think.
John

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Pat Brown
To:
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 5:11 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Vacuum advance


> John asks:
> > Appreciate your response. When you say I can check the vacuum advance by
> > sucking on the hose, does that mean I just have it running, suck on the
hose
> > connected to the distributor. What should happen?
>
> Well, first, you'll get this awful taste in your mouth, then as
> you recoil in disgust, your hair will get caught in the fan, then,
> as you try to get out of THAT one, you'll knock a wrench into the
> fan . . .
>
> Monitor the timing with your light while 'pulling a vacuum' on
> the advance. You should be able to get 15-20 degrees (anyone
> have a real number here?) advance at maximum. Leave the vacuum
> on for a while to check for slow leaks. Also, make sure
> the timing returns to normal after release. You'll notice the
> idle speed increase, so the advance you measure will include
> some mechanical advance. You can also do this with the distributor
> open, just to check and make sure everything is moving and not
> stuck.
> --
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:36:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - freon for factoy AC

> I am trying to getting my factory air in my 71 Ranger XLT and have seen all
> the adds about AC systems. The quetion I have is with the price of R12 being
> so high have any of you converted to the new substutute. If so how does it

R134 works good, however you need to be carefull with the installation.
The oils used with the new refrigerents are NOT compatible with freon,
and oil break down will cause compressor failure.

> work? I have also heard about useing propane as a substutute. Does this
> work? Thanks for the help

Propane has been banned for use in auto A/C in many states, due to
perceived safety risks and possible contamination of recycled R12
stocks. For other alternatives to R-12, check out George Gobel's
work at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.autofrost.com/
- --
Pat Brown , who has no connections to George or his products
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 19:28:49 -0400
From: "Ronald D. Miller"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FREE 1999 53-72 F100 catalog

Email me your address for a free copy of Auto Krafters' new 53-72 F-series
catalog just back from the printers. If you have purchased from us in the
last 12 monthes a copy is already on the way to you. Thanks, Ron Miller
akraft shentel.net www.auto krafters. com
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 20:00:25 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gas in the oil pan

My machinist told me that gas in the oil is not uncommon in older FE's. He
told me that you need to change the fuel pump immedaitely. I would not run
it until this is done and the oil is changed. If you don't, he said that
it will wear our your bearings quick!

Tim
352 F100 SWB
3-Speed Std w/OD and P/S
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 19:18:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: loustrk ix.netcom.com (louis sirio)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - new exhaust system

I'm about to replace the exhaust system in my 78-f250,
and I was thinking about installing stacks. Looking for
feedback from people who installed them and dealers they
used. any info. would help. Thanks again.
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 21:49:41 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Goodbye vibration!

Well, after pinpointing my drivetrain vibration to the wrong length
driveshaft, I got outside yesterday after work and changed over to the
longer one. The old driveshaft was shorter but it had a longer slip joint
which compensated for the difference in length. However, upon closer
examination of the longer slip joint (i.e. actually looking into it) I
discovered that it only has splines for the about the 1/3 of the length
closest to the driveshaft. While about half the slip joint was in the
transmission, the splined part was just barely engaging the output shaft on
the tranny...hence the vibration! My friend pointed out that I was probably
lucky that it just made contact. Otherwise I probably would have thought my
transmission was fried and replaced it with a new C6! Not necessarily a bad
thing to do but would have cost me a bit more to get that truck on the road.

A quick test drive with the new driveshaft reveals a truck that rides
smooth and vibration free! No longer feels like the truck is going to fly
apart when I'm whipping down the highway. :-) Course mucking around with
driveshafts and swapping U-joints left me scratching my head once again as
to what the proper U-joint for that truck is. I usually end up have to by
two U-joints for the bottom of the driveshaft to make one that has the
proper width with the proper size bearing cups...

Oh well, the price you pay for driving an Old Ford Truck...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4


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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 19:20:42 -0500
From: Gene Gardner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - driveshaft vibration

To the fella who thinks his driveshaft is too short, I measured mine and
it's 62 and a half inches. (I know I'm leaving myself wide open by saying
that but hey, I'm referring to my 70 F100 2WD.) This is from the middle of
the U-joints but remember, I had mine lengthened so it's not stock. Any
news on your vibration problem? (I feel a little guilty for getting us onto
the clutch chatter track ... )

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher
Hermosillo, Mexico
70 F100 (300 six, C-4?)

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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 22:02:03 -0500
From: Jerry Barr
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wondering about a 428

I am just curious about a 428. I have a slightly modified 390 in my 1970
F250 and would like to build up a 428. If I had one. Are they hard to
find, or is the 390 better? Please fill me in.

Thanks,

Jerry

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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 23:11:39 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - air compressor

bf goodrich mud terrain tires, i have a set on my truck, they were ok except
for one.
it wore out way quicker than the others, it was in the rear, i have a locker
in it so i know that one never spun more than the other. the right one is 50%
tread, the left one is 0% tread. i tried to talk to the tire store, they told
me kelly bought out bf goodrich and they wouldn't warranty the tire, i got so
much BS i finaly gave up.
the tires are several years old but not very many miles.

jeff grant
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 23:39:50 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Transmission mounts

>There is a cast bracket with two legs bolted somewhere
>between the transfer case and transmission. I think this
>only applies if you have a C6.
>The legs sit on two big cylindrical shaped rubber mounts
>that sit on top of the crossmember. There are no other
>attaching points for the motor/trans/transfer case. I don't
>suppose anyone knows where I can get a new set of
>these mounts?

This sounds a heck of a lot like how the NP435/NP208
bolts onto my '83 F150 ... You might want to have a look
at the salvage yards to determine if this setup will work for
you. If it looks compatible, you might be able to get this
new from the local Ford dealer or auto parts store.


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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 23:30:50 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wondering about a 428

428's are sort of hard to find, expect to pay premium price for even a
passenger car crank etc. i have seen several 390 blocks take the overbore
with no heating problems. two buddies of mine had 69 ford swb trucks, pretty
much the same except for color and engine, one had a .060 over bore 390, the
other was a 428, both automatics, both 3.50 posi rears. one night they drag
raced and the 390 outran the 428 everytime they ran. maybe it was tuning, but
the engines were built and tuned by the same person, from then on i respected
the 390. i thought 427 or 428's were the only real performers. of course i've
storys of the 66-67 390 fairlanes waxing 396 and 427 chevelles back in the
60's

jeff grant
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 23:35:33 EDT
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FREE 1999 53-72 F100 catalog

HEY RON, HOW ABOUT A NEW CATALOG ? SEND IT TO STEVE GARDNER 582 BAYWOOD DR.
NO. DUNEDIN, FLA. 34698-2007 THANKS
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 22:40:51 -0500
From: "Ted Stringfellow"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Removing AC

I did it with my 71 Torino with no problems. I hope it's the same case with
my 78 F150. I just took the AC compressor off mine also..

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rusty Nail
To: ford post
Date: Tuesday, April 20, 1999 8:29 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Removing AC


>Has anybody taken off a factory A/C. I took mine off and just disconnected
>the hoses. Does anybody know if this will effect the cooling system?
>
>thanks for the input
>rusty in kc
>77 400m
>--
>rnail mmgworldwide.com
>S.Rusty Nail
>816.472.5988 ext.183
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>

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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 01:12:23 EDT
From: Mikerenf aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FREE 1999 53-72 F100 catalog

ron miller please send me a catalog
thank you

mike renfro
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 22:26:39 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Redline

In a Bone stock engine.
In good condition.
With the engine under load.

The factory cam, Intake and Carb will strangle the engine causing you (or
the automatic) to shift before you reach the "Deadline". Say 6000 RPM
Maximum Peak. If you do rev a stock 351M/400 that high, all you are doing is
making noise; as the engine quit making any real power at about 4000/4500
RPM.
The actual Maximum Operational RPM is significantly lower being 3800-5000
RPM.
That said the Unloaded Redline RPM should be limited to a maximum of 2000
RPM.

Deadline. The RPM where you are damaging things; and run the vary real
possibility of a loud bang, followed by the sound of marbles being shaken in
a coffee can, which is followed by the whooshing sound of you wallet
deflating rapidly!-(

Maximum Operational RPM, is the RPM that you might hold for a short period
of time say a few minutes at the longest. In terms of numbers I like to set
this limit to a piston speed of 3200 FPS for stock components; on the 4"
stroke this works out to about 5000 RPM.

Maximum Operational RPM, is the fastest RPM that you should maintain for any
real length of time. I mean that the engine can be operated at this RPM for
up to 8 or 10 minutes; the engine had better be in good shape. My number on
this is 2800FPS for stock components, or in a 400 about 4500 RPM.

Unloaded Redline RPM. All engines are designed to operate under load. All of
the clearances are designed for the load. Free revving an engine places
loads that the engine components that they were not primarily designed for.
The difference between: Unloaded Redline RPM, and Maximum Peak RPM; is that
the first you do deliberately and the second you do accidentally. I know
people that love to sit and goose the throttle and think that they are real
"keen". I also know people that have had to rebuild their engine just
because they were too "keen" on being stupid!
Unloaded redline on stock components is 2000 RPM. Unless you are drag racing
and then you shouldn't be using stock components.
Notice that in NASCAR most engines let go as they enter the corner. Not
because they were over revved but because the driver lifts and the engine
loads are reduced and if it is a big lift they actually reverse; like when
we downshift and decelerate against the engine. Load changes and bang, your
in the wall!

I too am guilty of coaxing the occasional weenie Chevy truck into a little
street action, but really, ya only have to blip it to 2000 RPM to get em
hooked! Any more and they just slink off into the night BEFORE ya get a
chance to shut-em-down!

Of course I regularly saw 6000 RPM on a completely factory stock 400 short
block for 4 years before it let go one day when it accidentally went to 8000
RPM. I was lucky for a loooong time and I knew it at the time. It is a
testament to these engines that I could drive it that hard and have it live!

So simply put:
3200 FPS is the redline for any stock engine.
Add ARP Rod Bolts and you can gain some piece of mind and you can sustain
this speed; rather then avoid it.
Add a light weight forged piston and you can climb a little higher say 3500
FPS.
Race prep the rod and you can get up onto the 4000 FPS bracket.
Replace the rod with a good quality aftermarket race rod and you can climb
up some more but at this point you should be asking the component....


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