61-79-list-digest Sunday, April 18 1999 Volume 03 : Number 131



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Horsepower
FTE 61-79 - 352 Heads
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveshaft vibration, clutch chatter and front spring height
Re: FTE 61-79 - Horsepower
FTE 61-79 - Texas Events
FTE 61-79 - Re:FTE 61-79 64 f100 223 6 cyl engine color
FTE 61-79 - FE P/S
FTE 61-79 - under bed tank for 72 F100 4wd
FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help
Re: FTE 61-79 - Horsepower
Re: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help
RE: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help
FTE 61-79 - 223 engine color
Re: FTE 61-79 - Horsepower
FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help
Re: FTE 61-79 - 64 f100 223 6 cyc engine paint color?
Re: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help
FTE 61-79 - 9" pinion seal
FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Conversions

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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 07:48:52 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Horsepower

> Loose dirt/gravel-steep-backward I'm thinking of duallies instead of a
> locker-----These where all tips!!! Of course its a traction problem!!!!
> Can someone else please answer my posts or did I sign up to the wrong
> list?

Phillip, please have a little respect for your fellow list member. I
too took the "duals" in your initial message to mean exhausts, and took
the addition of the locker to be a seperate solution.

The addition of dual wheels won't do as much for your traction as you
might think, the main purpose for duallys is increased load rating and
providing the extra margin of safety of a back up tire in case of
failure. If you get in mud and get it packed tight between the wheels,
it will bog you down to where the tires can't throw the mud off,
effectively becomiong a big heavy slick tire. The best trucks I've used
in the woods were wearing 7.00 X 16 6 ply General Mud Grips. They
likely don't even make them any more. You could kill a squirrel in a
sweet gum tree with the mud balls they'd throw.

The locker is the best investment, though I've noticed that a couple of
my Fords would pull both wheels in low gear if you backed up (or spun
them slowly the equivilent of 15 feet or more)I don't have any idea why,
but that was quite handy with a load of wood on and a bag of out of
season squirrels I killed from my last stuck.(really Mr. Game Warden, my
truck done it...)
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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 08:29:41 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 352 Heads

> hi
>
> this might be obvious but ,,, 352 and most 390's used smaller valves (exhaust
> were very small) you might be better with bigger valves than the higher
> compresion
> you might get from 352 heads.


I've found the exhaust side of any FE (2.03 int 1.56 exh) to be entirely
adequate for any thing but all out racing. Stock, towing, or street
performance. If you put headers on an FE and a little more cam you will
see what I mean. They are strong! I prefer the early style '61-'65
heads, because the exhaust ports are a little better, but the later ones
are good too. There was a head that had smaller intake ports, 68-70
regular fuel 3902V I think, but from '66-'70 the exhaust side didn't
change much except for the thermactor head, and I've never fooled around
with them.

Compare an FE head to a 351W and you can't help but see why. For a
352/360/390(though bigger valves would be good in a 390 for over 5000
rpm operation) the stock valves and ports yield very good flow
especially for a truck application. Torque and throttle response are
the key for a truck, and Ford did a good job of low-lift air flow design
on the FE intake and heads. The exhaust manifold guys should be taken
to the wood shed though, from my experience the single most effective
modification to an FE is headers. They pump up everything, and then
when you add a little bigger cam, and 9.0 to 1 or better compression(the
passenger car engines make 9.5 to 1 CR)you've got a recipe for a good
economocally sensible street performance engine. In a 390, around
350-375 hp and 425 lbs ft. torque. And it's all below 5500 rpms, you
don't even need forged pistons, or aftermarket rods. I like that.
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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:22:53 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveshaft vibration, clutch chatter and front spring height

At 06:45 PM 07/03/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>I think I figured out what is causing my drivetrain vibration and it's
>>probably not my rear axle or diff. The driveshaft I picked up for the truck
>>is probably about 2 or 3 inches too short!
>
>Been there, done that -- yesterday, to be exact. My driveshaft (70 F100,
>manual 2WD ) was a couple inches too short, had the driveshaft lengthened
>and re-balanced. I can measure the new length later if you still need it.
>Slip yolk teeth were still OK, luckily. Also had some end-play in the pivot
>arm for the clutch adjusting rod (the part that moves the rod back and
>forth when you push the pedal). Those 2 corrections seemed to have
>eliminated about 85% of the clutch chatter problem I wrote about last year
>(see archives). The rest of the chatter -- mostly in reverse -- I'm going
>to attribute to the design of the clutch, the infamous 3-finger Chatterbox
>that Marko so aptly named. Get a diaphram-type clutch, my friends!

No kidding. You can buy an 11" LUK so cheap there's no reason to continue
giving your poor truck the Finger.

>
>I promised Azie I'd tell the list if I ever got rid of the chatter (after 2
>new clutches, flywheel balanced/turned, pilot bearings, etc. etc.) -- so,
>even though I've only had one test drive, here's hoping I have slain the
>beast. Re front springs (I was the original poster), the new ones I just
>put on the front got rid of most of the highway sway and generally improved
>the ride; also sits level now. Clearance between spring return bumper and
>frame is now 3 inches on driver's side, 2 inches on passenger (still a
>little sag, but I really have to quit being so anal). Need to put real
>truck tires on next: Pat Brown once said that using radials from a car
>caused sway and squishiness.

On my 2wd pickup I run Dunlop Rover RV 31x10.5's. They look good, go thru
anything, don't cut, and the extra height sure is nice on the highway.

>Aside from that, I think I'm finally ready for the road next month -- maybe
>I'll be able to say hello over coffee or a cold one to some of you folks on
>my way up from Old Mexico to Chicago ( to check out new teaching jobs
>stateside). Going from Arizona to Texas, then up through Missouri. Sorry to
>be so long-winded ...
>
>Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher
>Hermosillo, Mexico
>70 F-100 (300 six, C-4?)
>
If you make it all the way to Canada let us know...


marko

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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:27:24 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Horsepower

At 07:48 AM 17/04/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> Loose dirt/gravel-steep-backward I'm thinking of duallies instead of a
>> locker--

Duh, if you put dual exhausts on your truck I'm sure you'll need some kind
of locker too, or an alarm, or something. It'll sound so good somebody
will want to steal it.


marko (strikes again!)

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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:31:40 -0500
From: Michael Ray Jones
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Texas Events

Jeremy:

Fun Ford Weekend is May 1 & 2 at Houston Raceway Park (East of Houston).

You'll see more Mustangs there than anything but there is racing, shows
and a swap meet. It'll be a great way to see how fast your Ford will
run.

From: Jeremy Stiffler
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Texas Shows/Events?

Hello. Does anyone know of any good events in Texas this summer that I
should look into going to? I'm just interested in browsing, looking,
and
shopping.
Thanks,

Jeremy L. S.
1973 F-100 Ranger XLT "The Green Bandit"
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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 08:38:13 -0700
From: "Jacques and Barbara DeKalb"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:FTE 61-79 64 f100 223 6 cyl engine color


the




Bill,
I have a 223 engine from a '64 F-100. The color is a dark shade of Ford
blue, darker than any of the other engines I have and darker than the Krylon
#1909 engine paint I use. Maybe some of the other guys on the list have a
name for the darker Ford blue. Hope this is of some help.
Jacques
Bend, Ore.




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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:29:01 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE P/S

"My first concern would be for brackets and pulleys - Can you get
brackets to mount the ham can on an FE (390)?"

My 76 f-250 4x4 came with the newer style pump on a FE.
It's got a 2 piece bracket assy.1 piece bolts to engine,1 piece
bolts to pump and then the 2 brackets bolt together.
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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:30:44 -0700
From: "Josh Assing"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - under bed tank for 72 F100 4wd

the truck I bought a while ago really needs a 2nd tank; so that I
can actually drive somewhere w/o refilling so often.

I got a used one that was off of a 71 F250 long bed; but it won't fit.
so now I'm looking for info one what trucks I can get a secondary
tank that will fit.

Thanks!

- -josh
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 14:16:44 -0700
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help

Hey group,

anybody have any info on adding dealer installed A/C to a 68 truck
I have the unit but no info on it..My 68 shop manual does not cover it.?
I see it does not lose the glove box with this unit and you keep
your heater intact..Anybody familiar with this?
Joe
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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 17:10:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: FORDVAN4x4 webtv.net (Philip MacLaren)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Horsepower

- --WebTV-Mail-1144844771-5903
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I am signing off this list after this post you guys are not all there.

Philip MacLaren
Father
Ford Owner
Fabulous
Fabricator


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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:27:24 -0600
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Horsepower
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At 07:48 AM 17/04/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> Loose dirt/gravel-steep-backward I'm thinking of duallies instead of a
>> locker--

Duh, if you put dual exhausts on your truck I'm sure you'll need some kind
of locker too, or an alarm, or something. It'll sound so good somebody
will want to steal it.


marko (strikes again!)

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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:43:52 -0500
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help

I put one in my '67 last summer but it was from Old Air Products. Works
pretty good but that doesn't help you. One word of advice: PATIENCE!


- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Friday, April 16, 1999 4:16 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help


> Hey group,
>
> anybody have any info on adding dealer installed A/C to a 68 truck
> I have the unit but no info on it..My 68 shop manual does not cover it.?
> I see it does not lose the glove box with this unit and you keep
> your heater intact..Anybody familiar with this?
> Joe
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 17:37:45 -0600
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help

I saw one in the junkyard the other day, it was all there still too, and
this place was the elcheapo pull a part kind of place...

Its called u-pick-a-part and its just west of Peoria Street on 33rd in
Denver. Sorry, dont have the number...


I put one in my '67 last summer but it was from Old Air Products. Works
pretty good but that doesn't help you. One word of advice: PATIENCE!


- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Friday, April 16, 1999 4:16 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help


> Hey group,
>
> anybody have any info on adding dealer installed A/C to a 68 truck
> I have the unit but no info on it..My 68 shop manual does not cover it.?
> I see it does not lose the glove box with this unit and you keep
> your heater intact..Anybody familiar with this?
> Joe
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 20:01:26 -0400
From: "stevegoins"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 223 engine color

On my 63 F-100 the valve cover is ford orange/red and the block seems to be
the same altho i,m not sure under all thr accumulated crud from 36 years.
I'm pretty sure this is the original paint but I dont know if its the same
in 64. Anyone else ?????

BTW , the resurrection (not a full restore but a salvage from the dead) has
gone well. The "old truck" is running fine and beginning to pull looks on
the road. I've been reading the list but not responding much.

If anyone is interested in all the details I have kept a detailed log and
lots of pictures and will continue to do so.Also have shop manuals 61 thru
64 if questions.

Steve
63 F-100



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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:28:33 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Horsepower

At 05:10 PM 4/17/99 -0400, Philip MacLaren wrote:
> I am signing off this list after this post you guys are not all there.
>
>Philip MacLaren
>Father
>Ford Owner
>Fabulous
>Fabricator
>

I've taken care of it for you and made sure you can't
come back. Nothing worse than cutting someone down
then running for the hills.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com



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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 20:20:18 -0700
From: Eric
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help

I have a '68 dealer-installed "hang-on" system that I removed from
the donor. However, it might be different from yours - the evaporator
housing resides in the passenger footwell and the switches and (only)
outlet are just under the centre of the dash.
If yours is similar I might be able to help.
Eric

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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:54:05 -0700
From: "Willie & Bonnie Moore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 64 f100 223 6 cyc engine paint color?

hey I didn't say anything the other day because I'm not positive but I had
59 that I think was stock and it was red, I'd hate to be wrong, so i'd keep
checking!

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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:19:22 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dealer installed A/c Help

Joe, dreaming about summer, writes:
>
> Hey group,
>
> anybody have any info on adding dealer installed A/C to a 68
> truck I have the unit but no info on it..My 68 shop manual
> does not cover it.?
> I see it does not lose the glove box with this unit and you keep
> your heater intact..Anybody familiar with this?

My '68 had a factory/dealer installed AC. It replaced the original
heater, control panel, and glove box. The glove box was still
present, but only big enough for, well, a pair of gloves. A second
glove box was built into the unit, which hangs well below the dash.

The control panel looked just like the slider heater control, but
added the A/C positions. There was also a second slider on the unit
to switch from heat to A/C.

I have one of these units sitting in my workshop, to be installed
in my F250. Stu pulled one off his current truck, which someone
else on the list picked up and installed.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 23:43:24 PDT
From: "steve potratz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" pinion seal







Art:

It is a realitively easy job to change the seal. Just unbolt the yoke, slip it out along with the crush washer, and any shims. Pry the seal out and tap in a new one. However; the problem is to determine how much preload to set when you retorque the yoke nut. I have gotten away with the factory spec torque(I'll have to look around to see if I can find it somewhere). If you buy a bunch of the crushable washers you can trial and error based on the diff howl. Another question is why is the seal leaking. Often the first place to look is the breather-that goofy hose hanging from the dif. connected to the frame with a clip. If the breather is plugged then pressure builds in the dif. forcing gear lube past the seal. If the yoke has a groove worn in it you will have to have it turned and sleeved or find a different one.

Steve

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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 00:05:26 PDT
From: "steve potratz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Conversions






Tige

You can try to find late 70s integral ps and modify the parts to fit. Another method. The 70 F250 4wd I used to have had a Dodge box which was built by Saginaw.(which also built some of the Ford boxes).
The box had a cage around it and bolted to the outboard side of the frame. The crank arm fit by extending the threaded ball joint out. The long steering shaft uses the same parts for Ford and others. By the way if anyone is having problems with the knuckles and sliders all worn out in the flex joints in the steering shafts (there are no Ford serviced replacement parts for this) they are the same parts currently used on the two ton and larger GM trucks. This includes the rubber dust boots, ujoints, neoprene blocks and everything.....


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