Re: FTE 61-79 - Shaking Truck

61-79-list-digest Tuesday, April 6 1999 Volume 03 : Number 117

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Shaking Truck
FTE 61-79 - Re: Projection 4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Holley or Edelbrock?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Clunk
FTE 61-79 - Fuel Injected FE
FTE 61-79 - K-B Pistons: Take Note before
FTE 61-79 - Fan extension
FTE 61-79 - SAE 50 trans oil
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants and Master Cylinders
FTE 61-79 - various updates
FTE 61-79 - 390 Flywheel
FTE 61-79 - Re: Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Flywheel
RE:FTE 61-79 - Many Questions from a Newbie
Re: FTE 61-79 - various updates
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fan extension
FTE 61-79 - Re:
FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical Problem - Coil Ballast?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical Problem - Coil Ballast?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 flywheel indexing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shaking Truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Flywheel
FTE 61-79 - 67 Front End Shims
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shaking Truck
FTE 61-79 - SWMBO, don't pull so tight, dear
FTE 61-79 - Deisels
FTE 61-79 - 65 wiring help
FTE 61-79 - Re: End Gapping
Re: FTE 61-79 - Electrical Problem - Coil Ballast?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 61 unibody tailgate
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Bending Tubing
FTE 61-79 - fast turn signal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Holley or Edelbrock?
FTE 61-79 - Core support comparison
FTE 61-79 - Big Block Fuel Injection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Core support comparison
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Rings
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Rings
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Clunk
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Rings
FTE 61-79 - Re: Ford!
FTE 61-79 - 74 restoration ? about fender and box fit
FTE 61-79 - Pro jection
FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 07:03:47 EDT
From: TBeeee

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shaking Truck

In a message dated 4/6/99 1:52:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
wnorowski

onebellevue.com writes:

> Since it stops when I let up, the guy that worked on it seems to think the
> driveshaft(s)?are out of balance. Seems logical.
Ted:
It might be a combination of problems if it is a very violent shake.
Most driveshaft balance problems I have seen usually result in a vibration
with a commensurate noise depending on the severity. I have also seen
situations where problems at a particular wheel gets transferred to other
driveline components, thus masking the true cause. Therefore, I would also
inspect your motor and tranny mounts, your tires/wheels and all of your wheel
bearings, including the pinion/diff. bearings. You can generally eliminate
tire/wheel problems by sequentially rotating them and test driving. Note any
changes when you do. I hope this helps.

Stock Man
(a/k/a Thom B.)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 07:02:12 -0400
From: Steve Schaefer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Projection 4

>
>
> What part of the country are you in ? Here in IA my g.f.'s father had one
> of those, he said it was just junk, and that every 10deg of temp drop he
> would have to re calibrate it, then when it got down below 30, it was just
> impossible to set right....
>
> I was looking at this as an option for my truck, but then got to thinking,
> does anyone know how hard it would be to use the SEFI off of a late model
> mustang ? Since they make stroker 302's that go up to something like 380
> ci, couldn't you just get a chip burned that told the motor it was a 394 or
> 400 or whatever displacement you have ? I know they also make
> reprogrammable computers for those where you just plug in your laptop ...
>
> Anyone have any thoughts on how easy/tough this would be to do ?
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>

Wish,
I am in N. PA. I will admit that I have to adjust the choke a little when it gets colder, but all that consists of is turning a dial on the end of the controller. As for using the Mustang SEFI, it can be done with some fabricating. If you take a look at my web site at the bottom here you will see I am controlling a 514 with the Mustang computer. The intake is the biggest part of this system. A single plane intake is the best type of intake to
start with.
If you have any other questions, just ask.
Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 04:14:27 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Holley or Edelbrock?

I Was using a loaner Holley till i converted to propane, and when it
came time to rebuild it i had so many hassles i will never buy holley
again. A few holley carbs (standard model 4050's and 4160's) are
different enough that they require special kits that are not normally
available, the aftermarket kits if installed improperly can permanently
damage the carb. For offroad use the holley needs to be modified to keep
from flooding / starving and spilling fuel. On a good note their are
plenty of trick parts for SOME models.

I found that the next time i will go for Edelbrock their are only 6
different 4 BBl's they all use the same kits, trick parts are easy to
find and if all else fails in a pinch you can use parts from som Carter
4bbl's.

I found very little improvement going from cast to alluminum both were
dual plain 4 BBl, In fact i found that my aluminum one rotted out where
it blocks the water passages. What I've found and been told is stick to
a dual plane for better low end torque. If you buy a dual with 4 holes
get the right 4 hole spacer.

Boon40

aol.com wrote:
>
> Friends,
> I have a 78 f-150 with a 70 model 460. I need to purchase a new carb.
> Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of these two carbs? I am happy with the
> power this engine produces. I just need to make it more efficient. It is a
> stock engine with L&L headers. I am running 73 model heads. (low compression)
> I also have a factory cast iron intake on it. A dove something or other. Will
> a new aluminum intake help the mileage? Let me know. Thanks for the help.
> Boon
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 07:35:33 -0400
From: William A Whited
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Clunk

Dennis Pearson wrote:

> Thanks for your message at 07:16 PM 4/5/99 -0500, William A Whited. Your
> message was:
>
> ... a chunk in the reared. What can it be?
>
> uh?
>
> No vibration or noises when you are shifting?

Well going from 2nd up I get a the engine revving up for a second and then
it shifts. Also there is a vibration in the right rear from about 35 mph
and up. I think the little rev up my have to do with the fact that I don't
have my vacuum lines hooked up right. I thought maybe U-joints but there is
no play when I try to turn it. TIA
- --
William A Whited
74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390
77 F100 CUSTOM FLAIRSIDE 302
79 F100 EXPLORER SUPERCAB 302 (PARTS TRUCK)
"IT DON'T GTMO BETTER THEN THIS, SEMPER FI"

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 06:33:16 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel Injected FE

> I was looking at this as an option for my truck, but then got to thinking,
> does anyone know how hard it would be to use the SEFI off of a late model
> mustang ? Since they make stroker 302's that go up to something like 380
> ci, couldn't you just get a chip burned that told the motor it was a 394 or
> 400 or whatever displacement you have ? I know they also make
> reprogrammable computers for those where you just plug in your laptop ...
>
> Anyone have any thoughts on how easy/tough this would be to do ?

The mass-air setup would adjust to the extra cubes without a special
chip. You wouldn't really want to fool with a speed-density anyway,
unless it was for a 460.(there's an idea)

I've considered taking the speed density setup out of a heavy-duty
emmissions 460 truck and adapting it to an FE, or even from a 351.
Getting the fuel delivery (injector points too)built and figuring out
what engine signals the system has to have to operate and getting them
into range would the biggest obstacles. The Ford computer is tough and
fairly forgiving, so that part isn't as daunting as other makes. We put
a low-mileage heavy duty emmissions '97 351 in a '90 F250 (with the
same-emissions, I bet that's the key) and the computer worked with it
just fine. You wouldn't have done that with a GM for sure!

The speed density is alot like an answering machine, it doesn't change
it's message, regardless of how you talk to it, mass-air on the other
hand is more like interactive voice-mail. It keeps going through it's
range of choices based on air-flow. For performance, mass-air is more
adaptable. It's a shame it wasn't offered more widely in trucks. I
don't think the 460 ever got it, did it?
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 06:51:46 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - K-B Pistons: Take Note before

> Gapping the rings means putting them in the bore they will be in when you
> install the piston, then using a feeler gauge to measure the gap at the end
> of the ring. You don't want them to touch because as they heat up they
> will expand and could potentially damage themselves or the piston or the
> cylinder. Seems like the how to book for FE's recommends .004"/ inch of
> bore, so if you've got a 4" bore you would gap it at .016" ...

The K-B pistons have to have the gap widened considerably, the top ring
is higher on the piston. On a 4.030 bore they reccommend .026 for a
normal street engine, amd .032 if you tow. On a .030 over 460 that would
be .0285 for a streeter, and .0351 for towing. Let me quote the K-B
reccommendation:

Special Notice on Top Ring End Gap

The Keith Black pistons unique thermal
conductivity, ring location and varied end use
requires special attention be paid to top ring end
gap. KB pistons make more HP by reflecting
heat energy back into the combustion process and, as a result,
the top ring runs hotter and requires additional end clearance.
Increasing ring end gap does not affect performance or oil
control because normal end gaps are realized at operating
temperatures. Failure to provide sufficient top ring end gap will cause
a portion of the top
ring land to break as the ring ends butt and lock tight in the cylinder.
The broken piece
may cause further piston or engine damage. Safe top ring end gaps can be
found by
multiplying the bore diameter by the appropriate ring end gap factor
from the clearance
chart. Example: 4" bore "Street Normally Aspirated" = 4" bore x .0065 =
.026 top ring
end gap. NOTE: Second ring end gaps do not need extra clearance. Dyno
and track testing
has shown that 34 degrees or less total ignition timing makes the best
HP and time.
Excessive spark advance, lean fuel mixture or too much compression for
the fuel and cam
used will make heat sufficient to butt piston rings with as much as
.060" ring end gap. The
entire top land can expand enough to contact the cylinder walls, when
close to melt down
temperatures are reached.

I've never put an engine together with that kind of ring-gap, but I'd be
afraid not to since they reccommend it so emphatically.
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 06:56:06 -0500
From: "James Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fan extension

Does anyone know if the cooling fan extension that is between the water
pump/pulley and the fan itself will interchange between different engine
families?

I have a 360, and recently added a cooling shroud (thanks Stu). The fan sits
very far forward in the shroud and under load, the engine can move just
enough to cause the blades to wang the shroud. The donor of this shroud
(thanks Stu) took one look and said "my fan (a 360 also) doesn't sit
anywhere near that far forward".

So, before I go off on a junkyard search, will any others than FE fit?
Anyone got one? we can correspond on length off-list.

Jim E.

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 07:23:27 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - SAE 50 trans oil

> Regarding the thread about tranny/transfer case/ diff lube. The manual I
> have recommends SAE 140W gear oil (Ford no. ESP-M2C83-C) for the 4 speed
> manual tranny (unsyncronized granny low/reverse) and NP205(?)transfer case.
> And SAE90W gear oil (Ford no. ESW-M2C105-A) for the diffs.
> Since I tend to follow manual recommendations closely when it comes to
> lubes for expensive parts that is what I put in when I got the truck last
> year. It is always hard to shift when it is cold, and I can never downshift
> into 2nd gear until I am almost at a standstill even when the oil is warm.
> If I change to the suggested 50W oil would it solve these annoyances
> without damaging anything? It seems like a big drop from 140wt to 50wt or
> even to 80/90wt, but from what I am reading here it has been done without
> problems. Is the Haynes Manual I have out to lunch? Thanks.

Looking in the Michell NSD, every year I see there from '65-'74 lists
SAE 50 engine oil for both trans amd T-case.

It really takes a load off of things.
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 07:32:00 -0700
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...

From: William S Hart
>Has any body put up a web-page about how to use the vaccuum gauge ? I'm
>fairly new at that, as I'd never heard or seen it done before, but it seems
>to be quite effective ... would anyone be interested in such a page if I
>threw it together ?
Good idea! How about including with the Technical Articles at FTE also
.

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 08:40:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants and Master Cylinders

> Regarding the thread about tranny/transfer case/ diff lube. The manual I
> have recommends SAE 140W gear oil (Ford no. ESP-M2C83-C) for the 4 speed
> manual tranny (unsyncronized granny low/reverse) and NP205(?)transfer case.
> [snip]
> Is the Haynes Manual I have out to lunch? Thanks.

Nope. The little owners' book that came with my '78 150 also recommends
140 wt for the 3spd and transfer case, with 90 wt in the differentials.
I followed the last thread on this one, and buried somewhere in it was
a reference to a few model years that recommended 50wt engine oil
rather than 140wt lube. I, too, figured there was a reason for
recommending that goop, but the trans sure shifts poorly when
it's cold out...

If anyone besides us is still following this one, was there ever an
answer as to _why_ Ford recommends 140wt lube?

- --sean
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 06:44:48 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - various updates

I have been re-reading my 79 Owner's Guide, a dangerous past time.

1. A while back we were discussing locking hood latches. The OG says they
were an option. Since my truck was sold new in the Houston area, I suspect
that the dealer ordered this option routinely regardless of the trim level.
Bryan K. probably knows what I mean.

2. There is no mention of the quick release tailgates we also discussed a
while back.

3. It says that "1979 model year vehicles built after January 1, 1979 will
be equipped with engines which have been certified as complying with 1979
Emission Standards. Certain 1979 vehicles built prior to that date may be
equipped with engines which have been certified as complying with 1978
Emission Standards." If memory serves me, Federal emission standards were
phased in during the 70s. I am almost certain that at least 1978 also
suffered similarly. Ox, this probably partly explains why you are having so
much trouble identifying what emissions equipment you are supposed to have.
If your Bronc was built early in the model year, it may have been built to
the prior year's emission specs.

4. I found my axle code. I ran it through the decoder on the web. It says I
have a 2.75 3750 lb Ford axle. That explains the lower rpm, the poor
performance when you punch it, and the mpg on the interstate.
My axle code is 13J. I chose 13 on the decoder. What is the J for?

5. Henry's build date is July 1979. I would think that this would make him
one of the last of the 79's. It is my understanding that the factories
retool for the next model year during late July and early August. I wonder
if the 13J axle is an 80 model.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 08:59:04 -0400
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 Flywheel

Ah, Spring! That time of year when a young man's fancy turns to thoughts of... motors!

I have just aquired a 390 core to rebuild at my leisure. I can't wait to tear into it. It's like unwrapping a box of chocolates. You never know what you are going to find. I bought Steve Christ's book, but I am sure I will have still to appeal to the wisdom of the list from time to time.

I have one question right off the bat. I did not get a flywheel with it. Would it be possible to have the machinist zero-balance the crank and the harmonic balancer, assemble the engine, then zero-balance the flywheel in the middle of the engine swap? Does the sum of three zero-balanced components equal a balanced assembly? Or... should I aquire a flywheel and have the assembly (externally) balanced like it is supposed to be? Anyone got a flywheel they'd like to part with?

Oh, I love the smell of degreaser in the morning!

Doss Halsey
'68 F-250 camper special 360 (soon to be 390)
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 06:08:40 PDT
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...

>would anyone be interested in such a page if I threw it together ?

I would use the page if it was setup. I've wanted to do it to mine but
I don't know enough about it yet.

Marty Colman
73 F100 390
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 08:24:12 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Flywheel

>I have just aquired a 390 core to rebuild at my leisure. I can't wait to
>tear into it. It's like unwrapping a box of chocolates. You never know what
>you are going to find. I bought Steve Christ's book, but I am sure I will
>have still to appeal to the wisdom of the list from time to time.
>
Its a good time too :) Just about got my old one out so I can finish up
the new one. If there wasn't so much hockey goin on I'd have been done
long ago ... be sure to check out my page on rebuilding it ...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/rebuild.html

not many pictures, but lots of text. Also it should be updated in the next
couple of days.

>I have one question right off the bat. I did not get a flywheel with it.
>Would it be possible to have the machinist zero-balance the crank and the
>harmonic balancer, assemble the engine, then zero-balance the flywheel in
>the middle of the engine swap? Does the sum of three zero-balanced
>components equal a balanced assembly? Or... should I aquire a flywheel and
>have the assembly (externally) balanced like it is supposed to be? Anyone
>got a flywheel they'd like to part with?
>
according to my machinist the sum does make a 0 balance IF they can get the
crank balanced. In my case he ended up using the harmonic balancer and the
flywheel to bring it all into balance. Its possible that your old one is
already balanced as it needs to be. Mine just required about 3 1/2 holes
... where they just dig the bit in a little, so it wasn't much. Same thing
with the harmonic balancer, though it needed more taken out than the
flywheel did.

Good luck, and feel free to ask away, if you want to email me directly too,
I'm open to that.

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 08:23:27 -0500
From: Don Yerhot
Subject: RE:FTE 61-79 - Many Questions from a Newbie

Snip
truck is
shot, Any Upgrades? I know I can get stock from Napa or where ever, but
are
there any kits to upgrade from points electronic ignition? maybe even
HEI?
(Brother in-law suggested that, just for the hell of it)>>

The easiest and most practical electronic ignition IMHO for your truck
is a Ford Duraspark from a 75 to 82
300 six. You should be able to buy the whole unit including distributor,
electronic box, coil, and wiring harness
for around $40-50 at your local junk yard. I bought a setup for my 351W
for $30.00 and that even included a good set of spark plug wires! 77 and
later are probably the best because I think that's the year they went to
the big dist. cap. (Less arcing) Good Luck!
Here's a web site that really helped me out.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html

DonY
65F250-351W-435NP
74F100-360-3onthetree

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 08:33:06 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - various updates

>I have been re-reading my 79 Owner's Guide, a dangerous past time.
>
But entertaining too !

>1. A while back we were discussing locking hood latches. The OG says they
>were an option. Since my truck was sold new in the Houston area, I suspect
>that the dealer ordered this option routinely regardless of the trim level.
>Bryan K. probably knows what I mean.
>

Wow, that would be a find ... I may look into something after I get the 390
in... no one would steal anything out of it, but just the piece of mind
that they won't beat it to death either.

>4. I found my axle code. I ran it through the decoder on the web. It says I
>have a 2.75 3750 lb Ford axle. That explains the lower rpm, the poor
>performance when you punch it, and the mpg on the interstate.
>My axle code is 13J. I chose 13 on the decoder. What is the J for?
>
I think the letter usually means its a posi- or rather trac-lok rear end.

>5. Henry's build date is July 1979. I would think that this would make him
>one of the last of the 79's. It is my understanding that the factories
>retool for the next model year during late July and early August. I wonder
>if the 13J axle is an 80 model.
>
Could be, have to check part numbers.

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 08:34:42 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fan extension

>Does anyone know if the cooling fan extension that is between the water
>pump/pulley and the fan itself will interchange between different engine
>families?
>

I think they are all the same, seems like I messed with this on my truck
when I first got it ... yeah the guy had an aftermarket fan extension on
there I think, so I put on one off of a 351/302 ... just be sure to measure
yours and figure out how long you really want it... I know of 2 sizes for
sure, maybe a third.... do you have a clutch style fan? that might make
quite a difference...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 08:36:46 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:

> How can I find out what gearing my rearend has in it? My truck is a
>'74 F100 XLT 2wd Ranger 390 C4 (3spd auto). I run 3,000rpm

70mph and
>2,000rpm

55mph. Any Info would be appreciated. Thanks alot.....
>

You can calculate this from someof the gear calculators around (try
www.corral.net I know they have one, we mayhave one linked off of the FTE
page too)

Or you can look for a tag on the rear end and read the numbers off, it
should have the ratio in there somewhere (without the . in the middle of it
so like 3 54) ....

Or you might be able to check your door tag/sticker and run the code
through one of the decoders ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 06:41:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical Problem - Coil Ballast?

wish wrote:
> I know you mentioned electrical work being done in the original post,
but
> have you checked the coil to be sure its not overheating ? sometimes
its
> the simple stuff ...

I pulled the truck off the road when it died on me and one of the
things I did was feel the coil with my hand. It actually felt
cold compared to the heat in the engine compartment. Is feeling
it by hand a good test for an overheated coil?

Mark in Southwest Washington
www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 06:42:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical Problem - Coil Ballast?

Dennis Pearson wrote:

> Do you have points & condenser still? This sounds exactly like what
> happened to me in a Torino I used to have. Ended up replacing the
> condenser, thanks to Terry, a mechanic friend (may he RIP).

Thanks, the motor came out of the 4X4 and I don't know it's
history. I have heard lots of people say you don't need to
replace the condenser during a tune up so maybe this is what
happened.

> Good luck. Electrical problems can be so much fun...

Tell me about it.

Mark in Southwest Washington
www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 08:45:00 -0700
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 flywheel indexing

Thanks Don,
Hmmmm.....I have three flywheels and two balancers. The part #'s on two of
the flywheels are different, can't remember if the balancers are the same.
Maybe I put the wrong one on 8^( How do I match them up?
Smeck,
79 F100
FTE "Brain Trust"

Don Said:

You can't index it wrong. Bolt spacing won't allow for that.

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 05:51:56 -0700
From: Brian Koss
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shaking Truck

> Since it stops when I let up, the guy that worked on it seems to think
>the >driveshaft(s)?are out of balance. Seems logical.

If the drive shafts are out of balance than it would shake whenever the
shafts are spinning and would get worse with increasing shaft rpm. If it
is torque related it is probably due to slop in the system causing a
misalignment.

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 08:54:12 -0500
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...

I'd appreciate it.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: William S Hart
To:
Sent: Monday, April 05, 1999 8:43 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...

> It seems to me there have been lots of people (newbies especially, so I
> don't hold this against anyone) who have asked for the "stock" timing,
plug
> gap, and points gap ... it also always seems that the answer is the same,
> except for a few rare cases ... (6deg, about .017 or .018, and about 35)
> But these mean nothing with an older worn engine with any unknowns.
>
> Has any body put up a web-page about how to use the vaccuum gauge ? I'm
> fairly new at that, as I'd never heard or seen it done before, but it
seems
> to be quite effective ... would anyone be interested in such a page if I
> threw it together ?
>
> Questions ?
> Comments?
> Threats ?
> Promises ?
>
>
> Thanks,
> wish
> 73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> 96 Mustang GT
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
>
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>

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 10:02:42 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Flywheel

Thanks for the thoughts on the shakin'. But like William says,

>
> . If there wasn't so much hockey goin on I'd have been done
> long ago ...

Amen to that!!!! GO WINGS!!!!!

Ted
Bellevue,OH

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 10:12:53 EDT
From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67 Front End Shims

Hey Alaska Tim,

I scanned that exploded view of the 67 front end, send me a message so I can
e-mail it to you....

CJ
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 09:43:47 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shaking Truck

Ted

Did they replace the u-joints? Had a 54 ford that would shake
you to death under a load from 35 to 55 mph.
Ran smooth as silk after replacing the u-joints.

At 01:45 AM 4/6/99 -0400, you wrote:
> I'm still here with a shaking truck. The center bearing
definitely needed replaced, but it didn't solve the problem. The only time
it does it is when it's in gear and moving. It stops when I let up on the
gas. Since it stops when I let up, the guy that worked on it seems to think
the driveshaft(s)?are out of balance. Seems logical.
> The only problem is finding someone around here that balances
driveshafts.This small town life does have its disadvantages. Any other
thoughts or suggestions are needed and greatly appreciated.
>
>
Ted
>
Bellevue,OH
>
'64 F-250
>
352 FE (transplant)
>
4-speed
>BDIJXS

aol.com wrote:
>
>> What ever happened to the guy that had his truck "shake violently" when he
>> really gassed it? Just curious what it was. Did it shake while parked in
>> neutral and the engine revved up?
>>
>> CJ
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>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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>

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 10:18:57 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - SWMBO, don't pull so tight, dear

My SWMBO has a favorite trick. When we walk across the parking lot after
departing my 79 Ford truck (FTE content) she hooks the shoulder strap to
her purse on my rear belt loop. I always know when I start getting strange
looks from passersby. She smiles and says, "He gets lost very easily."

>>Maybe "old people" would just be with an XYL (although I am not...YL all
the way...)
and XYL is eX Young Lady. Translated to English that's husband and wife.

- -John

jlagrone

juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 wiring help

Help!!! I was cleaning up the wiring under the dash of my 65 F100 and
noticed a problem. The wire connector from the steering column to the
main harness was not right (of five wires only four were connected).
Unfortunately the wires change color at the main harness so I cant just
match them up. There are seven wires that come from the steering column
(turn signal circuit) and I know where two go since they are connected to
a smaller connector. I need the combination that is for the larger, five
wire, connector.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 65 truck and can tell me how the
wires go? If you have a 65 can you look under the dash and let me know?

These are the colors at the main harness.
1. White / Blue Stripe
2. Lt Green / White Stripe
3. Lt Brown / Yellow Stripe
4. Red / Black Stripe
5. Yellow

These are the colors coming from the steering column.
1. Blue / Yellow Stripe
2. White / Blue Stripe
3. Blue
4. Green
5. Green / White Stripe

The two other colors I know where they go. They are;
6. Green / Brown Stripe
7. Orange / Blue Stripe

If anyone can help me out please email me directly at
JCPurut

worldnet.att.net since I am on digest mode and Juno only allows
one connection a day in my area.

Thanks
Jon E. Purut
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jcpurut
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/Chelley
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 09:31:28 -0700
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: End Gapping

Don Yerhot wrote, in part:

> If these gaps are too tight, either the rings will break or the piston lands
> will get damaged when the engine heats up.

Cylinder and ring "galling" is the main damage. The ring expands
'till the ends meet.
It has nowhere else to expand, but it keeps pushing outward as it
heats up.
It finally breaks through the oil film and you have metal-to-metal
contact. Next,
you're wondering why the brand-new engine is overheating so badly.
This method breaks the rings in QUICKLY, but badly. The engine will
never be right. Checking the end
gaps is a very important part of proper engine assembly.
- -M-
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 21:37:14 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Electrical Problem - Coil Ballast?

Mark wrote:
>
> This problem started as an occasional misfire. Now the motor
> completely dies after driving a few miles. If I let it sit
> for a minute, it will start again and run fine for a while.
>
> A while ago, I was repairing burned wires in the main wiring
> harness. I found the coil ballast resistor wire was broken.
> I tried to reconnect the two halves, but solder would not
> stick to this wire. I resorted to using a crimp connector
> which I am thinking may be my problem.

Crimp is the way to go. Just check out the inside of a toaster-
every connection to the heater (resistance) wire is rivited or
crimped.

> I measure 6V on the coil with the ignition on and motor not
> running. With the motor running it is 10V. When the motor
> stumbles I see this voltage drop. I don't know how to
> distinguish whether the voltage drops because the motor is
> stumbling, or the motor is stumbling because the voltage is
> dropping.

Your voltage readings seem to make sense. With the motor off
and the points CLOSED, the voltage would divide between the
coil and ballast resistance. In this case, it looks like those
two are equal, thus half the voltage in the middle. With motor
off and points OPEN, you would measure the full 12 volts on both
sides of the coil. Now, with the motor running, the points are
switching faster than your voltmeter can follow, so the reading
will fall somewhere in between these extremes depending on the
point dwell angle and the meter response time.

> Anyone have any suggestions on how I can verify where the
> problem is, or how to make a good connection on the broken
> resistor wire? How did the people who used resistance wire
> to shunt their ammeters make the connections?

Ammeter shunts are very low resistance (
typically made of copper.

> One thought I have is to wire 12V directly to the coil and
> see if the problem goes away. I would have to drive it for
> a while to make sure the problem is gone. Would this be
> very harmful to the ignition components?

You run the risk of overheating your coil, and perhaps some
extra wear on the point contacts. How about a switch, wired in
to bypass the ballast resistor, that you could throw while
driving. Wouldn't have to be pretty, just a trouble shooting aid.

And, I like Dennis' suggestion of the condenser. Pretty rare for
a failure, but I've seen two that caused symptoms like yours. One
was old, one was brand new :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 14:08:27 EDT
From: Rollie H Hunt
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 61 unibody tailgate

Thanks Ted for the info on the tailgate.
Sorry Dennis I wasn't aware that this was a rare item to be found . Btw I
am sure my friends jaw will hit the floor when he sees the price tag ,
just like mine did ! He will probably let this one go .
This unibody truck has jarred my memory a little . I was out riding
around several years ago on some little back roads here in N.C. and I saw
one of these trucks sitting in the front yard of a farmhouse. It was
obvious that it had been there a long time , tires were sunk into the
ground up to the wheel with weeds growing all up under it . There may be
a chance it is still there . I will go over that way soon . This was a
complete truck then , about seven years ago . What would a who;e truck
like that be worth , untouched and unrestored ?
Rollie .

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 15:16:35 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...

Amen! Additional content is always welcome.

Ken

Steve Schmeckpeper wrote:
>
> From: William S Hart
> >Has any body put up a web-page about how to use the vaccuum gauge ? I'm
> >fairly new at that, as I'd never heard or seen it done before, but it seems
> >to be quite effective ... would anyone be interested in such a page if I
> >threw it together ?
> Good idea! How about including with the Technical Articles at FTE also
> .
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 14:20:55 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tuning, Timing, Gapping ...

>Amen! Additional content is always welcome.
>
>Ken
>

Just to let everyone know, I have started such a page, pictures will be a
bit (wanna get the 390 runnin and use it for the pics :) but the text is
about half a page.

Ken, anything I can do to make it "FTE friendly" ?

I'm sure ken and or I will let you know when it is all completed and posted.

Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 15:39:07 -0400
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Bending Tubing

At 05:51 PM 3/31/99 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 3/31/99 4:07:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>johnpeck

visuallink.com writes:
>
>>
>> By the way does any have any tips on bending steel line for fuel or brake
>at
>> severe angles? The little tube bender I have doesn't seem to wanna work
>> without creasing the tube on the fuel line coming from the pump to the
>carb.
>> I hate having that restriction and am worried it may break.
>>
>There is no substitute for the right tools and patience. The hand benders
>like the one I have from K-D comes up short on the heavier diameter tubing
for
>real short-tight bends. You might consider having something custom bent for
>you if you don't want to spring for a more expensive bender. Try this place
>Classic Tube at www.classictube.com. They manufacture stainless brake lines
>for many vehicles and supply other custom steel lines. Maybe they can help
>you. Good luck.
>
>~~Thom B~~
>1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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>
>
You could always get some braided fuel line :) Also, they sale couplers at
your local hardware store that will put a 90 degree angle in it for you,
and then maybe you won't have to bend it as much. These couplers are about
$1...

The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 15:46:54 -0400
From: Brad Smith
Subject: FTE 61-79 - fast turn signal

I've got a 78 F150 4X4... The turn signals blink really fast. I have
ingored it for some time, but I'm ready to fix it. I checked all the
bulbs, and at least some of the wires, and even replaced the flasher, but
still, it blinks just as fast! ARGH! Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
Brad
78 F150 4X4 429

The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 15:54:16 -0400
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Holley or Edelbrock?

At 05:58 PM 4/1/99 EST, you wrote:
>Friends,
> I have a 78 f-150 with a 70 model 460. I need to purchase a new carb.
>Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of these two carbs? I am happy with the
>power this engine produces. I just need to make it more efficient. It is a
>stock engine with L&L headers. I am running 73 model heads. (low
compression)
>I also have a factory cast iron intake on it. A dove something or other.
Will
>a new aluminum intake help the mileage? Let me know. Thanks for the help.
> Boon
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>
>
I run a Holley, and I will be the first to tell you gas mileage ain't in
the equation... However, when they are running right, they run right if you
know what I mean.... I have had to replace two of them in the 4 years I've
had the truck, but one was because of a broken valve spring which caused
some major backfire action.... Anyway, Holley makes a good carb, but they
have problems too... I would guess and say the Edel. will give you better
effeciency (but not the power [My Opinion]). I'd look at running around a
750 on that truck though either way....

Brad
78 F150 4X4 429
The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 16:06:07 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Core support comparison

Dear list-- I'm going to stake my reputation on this next message---

Yesterday I took a core support for a '70 f-100 4x4 and a core support for
a '78 F-150 4x4 and got out the old tape measure and stood these two cores
side by side on the floor.

I DO BELIEVE THAT THEY ARE INTERCHANGEABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, that's what I said... Here's what I found--- The bends are the same,
the frame mounts are the same, the grill holes are the same, and aside from
ONE bolt hole on the inner fenders, I belive they bolt to the same place..

Headlight holes will have to be fabricated to the '78 core, but I am
unusure (as I didn't have one) if the headlight holes lined up for the
'73-77 core with the headlight brakets for the '67-72.. They may, I am not
sure. Now, the only subtle differences are these: The '78 core has a
circular indentation in the top where the hood spring rides-- there is no
hood spring pad on the '70 core-- Do you need it to put a '78 core in a
'70? I don't believe so. The hood latch mechanisms can be swapped. The
only other subtle difference is where the '70 has a sheet metal lip on the
upper rear portion of the core. I don't know the proper name for this
piece, but there are two little 90 degree pads tacked onto the '70 core
that this piece bolts too-- NOTHING that can't be fabbed by your average
shmoe onto a '78 core. One final difference which isn't a problem is the
radiator opening hole--- on the '78 and the '70 they are the same large
size-- experience has told me there are smaller openings for the '73-77
cores. On the 67-72 the radiator mounts on these "stands" that are welded
to the core, while the '73-79 era radiators mount directly to the core-- I
think you'll just have to purchase a radiator that is designed for the core
you will be running-- the gap from radiator to core and from fan to
radiator should not be affected at all. As FE's, and I-6's were offered
for both of these eras, I'm sure this won't be a problem finding the proper
radiator. This summer I'll probably go the route of trying this switch
for good, but until then, I say, yes, it can be done, and yes, quite
easily. These are my own observations, my own experience, and if anybody
goes out and spends money on one to find it won't fit, I'm SORRY!!!!!! 8-)

Happy truckin' people--

Tony Marino
tony

pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 15:36:06 CDT
From: "Shane Bevel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Big Block Fuel Injection

For anyone interested a friend of mine has a custom throttle body
injection system for a big block that will mount to a Holley pattern
intake. The system is similar to the Projection 4, but it uses normal
fuel rail injectors (four of them) and a reprogrammable Accel DFI
computer. Great system. I can't remember what he wants for it, but if
you are interested email me directly. Includes everything (including
wireing and fuel pump) needed to install it. Need to have access to a
laptop to program it initially.

Later,
Shane

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 15:44:31 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Core support comparison

>Headlight holes will have to be fabricated to the '78 core, but I am
>unusure (as I didn't have one) if the headlight holes lined up for the
>'73-77 core with the headlight brakets for the '67-72..

Well I'll be able to compare the 73-77 core directly soon if anyone
needs/wants that info. Thanks go to Tony for that one too .....

Great comparo Tony ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 16:40:35 -0400
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Rings

At 11:44 PM 4/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, ive just got my 460 back from the machine shop, they bored it .030
>over, ground and polished the crank, and put the rods on my new kb pistons
>(i love to brag), and got new cam bearings and freeze plugs in, all for
>$148. Now comes my part, putting it back togethor, i ordered a set of
>chrom-moly rings from summit, and need to put them in next. I've heard ppl
>talk about gapping the rings, what does that mean and how do you do it?
>The only rings ive been it was brigs & stratton, so...
>
>oh yea, if somebody had the complete pulley and bracket set up for a truck
>for a 460 (including a/c compressor york style)and are willing to sell,
>tell me, ive yet to find one..
>
>thanx,
>cannandale
>'78 F250 4x4, 460
>
>
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>
>
You don't have to gap the rings on a 4 cycle engine, because the rings
actually ride on a layer of oil, and spin. So, no matter where you put the
gaps, they are going to move. This is not the case for a 2-cycle, so maybe
thats what you saw, a 2 cycle Briggs???? Anyway, good luck...
BRAD
78 F150 4X4 429

The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 15:50:45 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Rings

>>
>You don't have to gap the rings on a 4 cycle engine, because the rings
>actually ride on a layer of oil, and spin. So, no matter where you put the
>gaps, they are going to move. This is not the case for a 2-cycle, so maybe
>thats what you saw, a 2 cycle Briggs???? Anyway, good luck...

Whoa, gapping the rings is much different than spacing them!!!! Gaps are
for the ends of the ring, so as someone else said, they don't cause galling
when the ends touch and the ring continues to expand. When this happens
the ring becomes larger than the bore and you can probably get some really
neato things happening in there... I would think this might be less of an
issue with the briggs because they generally would run cooler wouldn't they
? Maybe not, but at any rate the point is still the same, you NEED to gap
them, and to space them out correctly as well, with any luck they will spin
at the same speed (assuming you aren't driving a metro with only one
compression ring) and they will then maintain that spacing, or some
reasonable facsimile of it...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 16:53:00 -0400
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Clunk

At 07:16 PM 4/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm having a problem with my rear end on my 77
>Flairside 302 AT, when I put in Reverse and only
>reverse I hear a chunk in the reared. What can it be?
>TIA
>
>--
>William A Whited
>74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390
>77 F100 CUSTOM FLAIRSIDE 302
>79 F100 EXPLORER SUPERCAB 302 (PARTS TRUCK)
>"IT DON'T GTMO BETTER THEN THIS, SEMPER FI"
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
Id have to say it is probably the U-Joints... I'be had mine clunk with no
change in ride. Pull em out and check em, and if they aren't bad, with the
driveshaft out, jack the rear up, and turn the tire with a jerk. See if
you hear the noise. I suppose it could be an axle thats stripped a spline,
but most likely a U-Joint will solve your problems

The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 17:06:03 -0400
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Rings

At 04:40 PM 4/6/99 -0400, you wrote:
>At 11:44 PM 4/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Well, ive just got my 460 back from the machine shop, they bored it .030
>>over, ground and polished the crank, and put the rods on my new kb pistons
>>(i love to brag), and got new cam bearings and freeze plugs in, all for
>>$148. Now comes my part, putting it back togethor, i ordered a set of
>>chrom-moly rings from summit, and need to put them in next. I've heard ppl
>>talk about gapping the rings, what does that mean and how do you do it?
>>The only rings ive been it was brigs & stratton, so...
>>
>>oh yea, if somebody had the complete pulley and bracket set up for a truck
>>for a 460 (including a/c compressor york style)and are willing to sell,
>>tell me, ive yet to find one..
>>
>>thanx,
>>cannandale
>>'78 F250 4x4, 460
>>
>>
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>>
>You don't have to gap the rings on a 4 cycle engine, because the rings
>actually ride on a layer of oil, and spin. So, no matter where you put the
>gaps, they are going to move. This is not the case for a 2-cycle, so maybe
>thats what you saw, a 2 cycle Briggs???? Anyway, good luck...
>BRAD
>78 F150 4X4 429
>
>The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
>not...
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>
>
Please strike this from the record, I thought he was speaking of ring
staggering... My apologies....

Brad

The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 14:34:25 -0700
From: "Josh Assing"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Ford!

I've gotten a couple of these requests; so I thought I would post to
the list. I got the info while surfing for "ford vin decode" off
savvysearch. The URL:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/~jhuntley/documentation.html
was where I found the phone # for Ford's "Customer Assurance"
department, It was something to do with a resetoration of a Cobra.

Anyway; I called the # and asked for "more information than just
VIN decoding" The woman looked it up on her computer, and said
"That vehicle is too old; I'll have to hand this over to research. You
should hear back within 2 weeks" I thought that was the last I'd
have heard from them. A little over 1 week later, I got a letter from Ford
with the info of VIN Decoding, and what options were originally included.
They can't do dealer options, just factory.

Anyway; that # is: 800-392-3673
Follow the voice prompts carefully.
So; the service is free and the # is free.. How can you go wrong?....

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