61-79-list-digest Friday, January 1 1999 Volume 02 : Number 578



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Re: what does FE stand for anyway?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Cab/Bed Swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 Head Compatibility
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100
FTE 61-79 - Upper "grease cap" for dana 60 front anyone?
FTE 61-79 - RE: VIN Decoder
Re: FTE 61-79 - Factory lift
Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ball Joints
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100
FTE 61-79 - Cooling quandries and 4x4 welll problems.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dim dashlights.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100
FTE 61-79 - NP 205 breather
Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin
Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin
Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin
Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin
FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: Ford Truck Enthusiasts post
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100
FTE 61-79 - Re: removing a king pin
FTE 61-79 - Another Good Deal? 77 4X4 - $1200
FTE 61-79 - Change radius arm bushings on '77 2wd F250
FTE 61-79 - Heater Core Replacement on 77 F250 with A/C
FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest Dog Leggin some more
Re: FTE 61-79 - Change radius arm bushings on '77 2wd F250
FTE 61-79 - Ball Joints
Re: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 Head Compatibility
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 breather
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ball Joints

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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 06:41:26 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: what does FE stand for anyway?

In a message dated 12/31/98 12:17:47 a.m. Eastern Standard Time, SHill48337
writes:


www.wrljet.com/engines/fe.html. Where I chopped the following paragraph:
"From somewhat humble beginnings as the 352 in 1958, the Ford-Edsel family
evolved over more than a decade to give us such performers as the tri-power
406, the 427 introduced in March 1963, the 390 GT, and the 428 Cobra Jet
introduced in April 1968." This does not literally say, FE means Ford Edsel.
>>


yep---saw that reference on that page too. I love that site. Informative and
handy, simply great . I have a similar reference in a book titled "How to
rebuild your Big-Block Ford", by Steve Christ, published by HP Books (1983)
His book covers both FE and FT engines. The introductory sentence reads,
"Designed in the mid-'50s, the big-block Ford was introduced in 1958 for Ford,
Edsel and Thunderbird cars." I suspect that this is the source of the
reference on the FE page--don't know. I believe it to be correct
nevertheless. I would be interested in whatever other info you might
find---Thanks Burt.

--Thom B--
1967 F-250 4WD 390
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~Happy Holidays~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 07:12:06 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Cab/Bed Swap






Yes you will use the 4WD column and all of the wiring harnesses (if
original from factory) will be compatible (given the two trucks have the same
engine and accessories) and povided both vehicles are same series (ie 67-72 or
73-79) Also you will find that your cab's rear mounts are outside the frame-
rail on the 4WD while they are between the frame rails on the 2WD---No problem
though that a drill can't handle (Ford was also kind on this issue and stamped
the location where the alternate mounts would be. This should be obious when
you look at your floor pan. If your trucks are different series the swap can
still be done but simply presents a few more challenges. Hope this helps.

--Thom B--
1967 F-250 4WD 390
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~Happy Holidays~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 07:26:08 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 Head Compatibility

> ----------
> From: Tony Marino[SMTP:tony pscico.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 3:22 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 Head Compatibility
>
> First of all, I wanted to thank those of you who gave me information on my
> mismatched heads on my 429/460-
>
> I did some calling around to local junkyards, and ONLY ONE out of about 15
> junkyards had ANY heads, and the one who does has a SINGLE D2VE-AA head
> for
> $50 bucks.
>
$50 is a fair price. Expect to pay a bit more for the earlier heads.


> Is this compatible with my DOVE-C head? Are the rocker setup the same?
> Would they look identical, have the same size valves, and CC chambers?
>
1) Absolutely Not!!!
2) No. D2 heads are the first year for 8:1 +/- compression and pedestal
mount rockers.
3) They look similar at first glance, but upon close inspection you'll see
the difference in combustion chamber size and stud vs. pedestal mounted
rockers.


I used low compression D2 heads on my '69 block because I thought the high
compression heads wouldn't run on pump gas. Although my 429 makes good
power, I'm kickin myself in the ass now. Find another D1 or earlier head.


> Thanks again!
Good Luck.

> Tony
> tony pscico.com
>
>
Tracy

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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 05:16:48 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100

Earlier, someone wrote...
................
Hi, guys. I'm building a 390 for my 68 F100 2WD. I plan on using 428 CJ
heads on the engine, but just about every header I've seen listed says
they won't fit on these heads in a pickup. Has anyone had the same
problem and found an economical fix?...
................

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the 428, 390, and 360 heads the same
bolt pattern? Does the CJ have a different bolt pattern for the exhaust?
I've got a 69 F250 with a 390 4bbl (from a 64 T-bird) and the Hooker
Competition headers fit nicely. It can be a bit tricky to change the starter
motor with headers.

Danger

69 F250 CS 390 4bbl T18 Posi 3.55
69 F250 360 Auto 4.10



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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:19:28 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Upper "grease cap" for dana 60 front anyone?

Could anyone provide a source for a driver's side upper "grease cap"
(cylindrical protruding about 2-2.5" with a zerc grease fitting on top and
a rectangular bottom that bolts (4 bolts) to the driver's side) for a open
knuckle dana 60 front axle? Sorry, for the lack of technical terms, but I
don't have any manuals in front of me to better identify the part. Since
its not something that usually wears out, the parts store can't help. I've
yet to even see a dana 60 in a junk yard around me in years (if ever). I
believe some years may have had a turning arm for fore/aft style steering
that attached here, I definitely don't need that. But I'm really not an
expert myself, so not sure if a passenger side cap would also work?

Can anyone point me to a source for this particular item?

Thanks,
John


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:20:05 -0500
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: VIN Decoder

Check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.medicine.wisc.edu/~mrm/bronco/


Jon E. Purut
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/Chelley
one 64 F500, one 77 F150 and a pair of 65 F100's

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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:28:59 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Factory lift

>As far as I know there was no such thing as a Factory lift. No check box on
>the
>order sheet. No comment on the dealer sticker window. The 4x4 models were
>just
>built to stand higher.
>

Hmmm ... interesting ... a guy I knew/know has a 79 that he got and claimed
it had a factory lift on it, but they looked like the same lift blocks mine
had and I can't prove mine are aftermarket ... thanks for the info :)

Bill
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:23:12 -0500
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin

>We ended up use a accetylene torch and an air hammer.
>The air hammer came into the picture half way through the first pin. Made a
>big difference.

Yet another reason why I have to get myself an air compressor and some
attachments. I've eyed up those air chisels/hammers and wondered how good
they would work. But until I get my own yard to park dismantled trucks in,
I don't think I'll be rushing out to get any. I overstayed the welcome by
having my current truck sitting in the inlaws driveway for 2 years...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:40:32 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ball Joints

>The Chilton makes reference to a Special Ford Tool used to remove the
>ball joint. The picture supplied looks like a C-Clamp and perhaps some
>sockets used as a "cup". Is this the case or do I need to purchase a
>special tool?

We just used a big hammer, and some not so nice words ...

>Second Question: In the explaination for removing the spindle the
>manual says...Remove the wheel bearing locknut, lock ring, and adjusting
>nut using special tool T59T-1197-B.... Do I actually need this special
>tool or will other tools that are more common to most of our tool boxes
>work? If I need it, where do I get it? A parts store? Does it have a
>common name?

Spanner Wrench, most decent parts stores will have them, but they are
pricey ($25 I guess if you consider that pricey for a single purpose tool)
Also I was able to do mine the first time (takin apart anyway) with a
screwdriver and some patience...


>And finally, I have some experience with removing 4x4 hubs and front
>end components but mostly on J**ps. Is there anything I should be
>especially aware of on my 79'.

Dunno, never messed with a Jeep, well not the 4x4 part of it ... did a
radiator once .. but I don't think that counts.


Oh yea, I also have a friend who needs
>the same thing (balljoints) on his 80' F`150 4x4. Are they pretty much
>the same?

His will be a TTB, or independent front system, though the way a ball joint
works is the same, there will be some differences in the way things look
around it I think ... never messed with one though...


>70 Falcon 390FE
miles :)
>70 Mustang Sports In process of restoration.
Fastback, and not a Mach1 ???? Email me privately about this if you like


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:44:48 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100

> Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the 428, 390, and 360 heads the same
>bolt pattern? Does the CJ have a different bolt pattern for the exhaust?

Yes on both accounts, the CJ has something like 4bolts per port per side if
I remember right ...

Bill
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:56:08 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cooling quandries and 4x4 welll problems.

>Yes, I have an impressive command of thoroughly useless information.
>
Great, maybe you can help me out with this ...

Okay drivin along, heat gauge at the middle or low side of normal ... stop,
everything's fine. Start moving again, and almost immediately the gauge
does an end run for the H ... might sit there for a couple seconds then
makes an end run back to where it was... If I sit at the stoplight with
the truck in neutral and rev up to 1500 or so, then the gauge wiggles a
little bit, and doesn't do any major changes even when I let off to drop it
in gear and go again.

I've managed to control a leak in the radiator I had (stop leak isn't all
that bad), changed thermostats and water pumps. No change. I don't have
any antifreeze in the oil, no excessive white smoke from the rear (its less
than 0 here, so there's no such thing as a warm exhaust in my 20 min commute)

What have I missed ? I did freeze the radiator this winter ( I know I
know, just put it off one too many days), but it was acting a like this
before, i just wasn't watching the heat gauge as closely to know exactly
when it started looking warm.

Help with this would be great. I'm workin on a 390, but it'll probably be
3 or 4 weeks (maybe more) before I get that ready to go in, and I want to
be sure I'll still have a truck to drive while I'm waiting for the new
motor. I've toyed with the idea of new radiator and new heater core (and
hoses of course) when I put the new motor in, so there's no doubt about
that stuff.


Another, unrelated, problem I'm having is that when in 4, sometimes it
kicks out. The xfer case was rebuilt last year with a part time kit put in
it. It almost doesn't feel like its engaging all the way, and the linkage
is really sloppy. Does anyone make bushing kits, or repair kits for this
linkage ? Is there an easy way to adjust it? I've never seen reference to
adjusting it, but you must be able to, there's slots in the arms ...

Thanks

Bil
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:07:44 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dim dashlights.

My 76 crew has this prob also. They are bright enough to see, but not as
bright as my 79 Bronco. Its not really a prob for me, just noticed they are
a little dimmer. Rick


> I'm going to purchase a '74 F250 crew cab. The dash lights are VERY dim.
> What could cause this? Bad connections at the fuses? The fusebox looks
> exactly like my '65 and I had to replace it because the brake and blinker
> lights kept going out. Any help is appreciated.
>
>
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:27:26 PST
From: "Andy D"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100

>Yes on both accounts, the CJ has something like 4bolts per port per
side if
>I remember right ...

The 428CJ heads do have 4 bolt holes but only 2 are used at a time.
Ford did not want to spend the money on casting a new head for the FE
but the truck (360, 352) exaust manifold would not fit in all the cars
that got the 428CJ engine. To solve this ford redid the manifolds and
put 2 more bolts in to be used on the car manifolds.



Andy
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/7464
70 F-100,360 2v (soon to be 4v),C/6
56 F-600,272 2v (soon to be factory 4v),4speed
56 F-100 Bigwindow,223 1v,3speed


______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 11:40:58 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100

At 11:27 AM 12/31/98 , you wrote:
>>Yes on both accounts, the CJ has something like 4bolts per port per
>side if
>>I remember right ...
>
>The 428CJ heads do have 4 bolt holes but only 2 are used at a time.
>Ford did not want to spend the money on casting a new head for the FE
>but the truck (360, 352) exaust manifold would not fit in all the cars
>that got the 428CJ engine. To solve this ford redid the manifolds and
>put 2 more bolts in to be used on the car manifolds.
>

So then (and from looking at pictures at www.wrljet.com) it looks like you
can use the same headers or manifolds, just gonna have a couple extra
holes. Doesn't look like they are anwyhere to do any harm (ie leak) ...

might be able to tell by using your stock manifolds and making sure the all
line up, if so, then you don't have a problem.


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 11:42:45 -0600
From: Jim Henjum
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 breather

Is there anyone who has taken a NP 205 apart that can tell me if the
breather on the rear housing is treaded in or a press fit? For some
reason my breather is leaking oil a lot and I need to get it out. The
case is out of a late-'77 F250. Thanks!

Ross Henjum
1975 F250 4x4 460 NP435 NP205

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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:53:54 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin

>I want to take off the front spindle on my 79 ford truck. I removed coil,
>tie rod end etc etc, just the spindle left. I removed the bolt going thru
>pin to lock it in place. I put a deepwell socket against pin and beat it
>senseless....pin did not budge. I used a longer attachement so I could get
>more force...beat it senseless...pin did not budge.....I wd40'd the heck out
>of it for a few days....the pin will still not budge.......
>how do I beat it out ?

I beat on mine till I couldn't pick up the hammer anymore, then I
finally broke down and built a home made hydraulic press to get them
out without removing the I-beam. The press is made out of a couple
feet of heavy steel plate and a small hydraulic bottle jack.
You can find a drawing of it on my website. Follow the link to
the tech page...

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to
recognize a mistake when you make it again.
-- F. P. Jones


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:37:18 -0500
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin

> I beat on mine till I couldn't pick up the hammer anymore, then I
> finally broke down and built a home made hydraulic press to get them
> out without removing the I-beam. The press is made out of a couple
> feet of heavy steel plate and a small hydraulic bottle jack.
> You can find a drawing of it on my website. Follow the link to
> the tech page...
>
> Steve
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

I just checked out your page and after bit of thought I think I understand
the concept behind your press. I was having trouble visualizing how it
worked until I realized that the bottle jack must go inside the press, not
underneath it. I really wish I had seen this thing two years ago - would
have saved me a lot of work! This could come in real handy with my friends
truck though. I have my doubts that we will be able to unseize his king pin
by heating it up and pumping more grease into it. We'll definitely have to
consider building one of these presses! Question for you about it - do you
have to remove the ibeam from the truck or will the press fit over the
spindle? Also, is there anything special you should do when welding it
together to keep it from coming apart when you exert all that force on the
kingpins?



David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:17:20 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin

>> out without removing the I-beam. The press is made out of a couple
>> feet of heavy steel plate and a small hydraulic bottle jack.
>> You can find a drawing of it on my website. Follow the link to
>> the tech page...
>>
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty


>I just checked out your page and after bit of thought I think I understand
>the concept behind your press. I was having trouble visualizing how it
>worked until I realized that the bottle jack must go inside the press, not
>underneath it.

Yes, the jack goes inside the press. Set a short piece of steel bar,
a little smaller than the kingpin diameter on top of the jack and use
the jack to push the bar up against the bottom of the kingpin, forcing
the pin out the top thru the hole in the top plate of the press.

>I really wish I had seen this thing two years ago - would
>have saved me a lot of work! This could come in real handy with my friends
>truck though. I have my doubts that we will be able to unseize his king pin
>by heating it up and pumping more grease into it.

I heated and greased and pounded for most of a day before I finally
broke down and built the press. Some people have luck with the "heat and
beat" method, but mine didn't budge that way. The press slid them right
out.

> We'll definitely have to
>consider building one of these presses! Question for you about it - do you
>have to remove the ibeam from the truck or will the press fit over the
>spindle?

The press fits over the spindle without removing the I-beam.
I didn't want to remove the I-beams and drag them into the garage
to press them out, so I built the press to do them "in place".
I have a torch and a MIG welder, so it only took about an hour
to build the press. Much less time than removing the I-beams...

>Also, is there anything special you should do when welding it
>together to keep it from coming apart when you exert all that force on the
>kingpins?

Not really. I ground the surfaces to be welded until they were nice and
clean, then beveled the corners of the upright plates and welded them
to the top and bottom plates with several passes from my little SP100
MIG welder. I actually bent the top plate a little while getting one
pin out, but the welds held just fine.
The actual dimensions of the press may need to be adjusted a little
depending on the size of the jack you use, so get the jack first and
measure things up before you cut the steel...

The press is also handy for removing stubborn U-joints.

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to
recognize a mistake when you make it again.
-- F. P. Jones


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 17:04:18 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin

>
> I beat on mine till I couldn't pick up the hammer anymore, then I
> finally broke down and built a home made hydraulic press to get them
> out without removing the I-beam. The press is made out of a couple
> feet of heavy steel plate and a small hydraulic bottle jack.
> You can find a drawing of it on my website. Follow the link to
> the tech page...
>

Hmmmm.... alot like what I did to get it moving on mine (after
it started to budge, it came out with a hammer). I set the bottle
jack under the truck pressing on the kingpin and jacked the truck
up via the kingpin. I had a long cheater bar on the jack to
get me as far away from it as possible while my large brother
jumped up and down on the front bumper! I wouldn't recommend this
procedure to anyone though!

Ken Payne

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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 17:08:16 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: Ford Truck Enthusiasts post

Forwarded for lwblumjr juno.com
>
>
>This message wuz sent to you from Saraland, Alabama
>Located in Alabama 'bout halfway 'tween Chickasaw an' Creola on
>highway 43

>Yall kin lurn moe 'bout Saraland at my homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://floyd.terrell.net/

Floyd,

According to "Ford Trucks Since 1905", by James K. Wagner,
(Crestline Publishing),pages 332 and 333, the stock small
hubcaps for 1965 trucks are the flat looking caps with FORD
in block letters in black across the center. The caps also have
a ring around the outer edge with impressions that simulate the
teeth of a cog. (gear) The F-100 shown on page 332 is a Custom
Cab and has chromed hub caps. The F-250 shown on page
333 is a Custom Cab and has argent colored hub caps.
I hope that this helps.

Larry W. Blum, Jr.
Pensacola, Fl.


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 15:04:15 PST
From: "Andy D"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100

>>>Yes on both accounts, the CJ has something like 4bolts per port per
>>side if
>>>I remember right ...
>>
>>The 428CJ heads do have 4 bolt holes but only 2 are used at a time.
>>Ford did not want to spend the money on casting a new head for the FE
>>but the truck (360, 352) exaust manifold would not fit in all the cars
>>that got the 428CJ engine. To solve this ford redid the manifolds and
>>put 2 more bolts in to be used on the car manifolds.
>>
>
>So then (and from looking at pictures at www.wrljet.com) it looks like
you
>can use the same headers or manifolds, just gonna have a couple extra
>holes. Doesn't look like they are anwyhere to do any harm (ie leak)
...
>
>might be able to tell by using your stock manifolds and making sure the
all
>line up, if so, then you don't have a problem.

A friend of mine has a 72 F-100 4x4 with a 428cj, he is usind the stock
manifolds and has no problems with leaks.

Andy
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/7464
icq# 13179729
70 F-100,360 2v (soon to be 4v),C/6
56 F-600,272 2v (soon to be factory 4v),4speed
56 F-100 Bigwindow,223 1v,3speed


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 18:38:20 -0500
From: Daniel Maxwell
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: removing a king pin

When I worked in an alignment shop a few years ago I did a lot of king pins
on pick-ups. Put the jack stand under the axle, remove the brakes and stuff
and drive them out with an air hammer. Had to heat some, air hammer did
most. Need to be carefull of the threads at the top where the grease cap
screws on. Had an adjustable ream for the bushings, ream until pins fits
with no wobble, and then re-assemble.
- ------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 05:08:48 -0600
>From: "don"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - removing a king pin
>
>I want to take off the front spindle on my 79 ford truck. I removed coil,
>tie rod end etc etc, just the spindle left. I removed the bolt going thru
>pin to lock it in place. I put a deepwell socket against pin and beat it
>senseless....pin did not budge. I used a longer attachement so I could get
>more force...beat it senseless...pin did not budge.....I wd40'd the heck out
>of it for a few days....the pin will still not budge.......
>how do I beat it out ?
>
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 18:57:24 -0500
From: Matthew Hayduk
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Another Good Deal? 77 4X4 - $1200

Hi all, as you know I descided not to buy the 77 300 I6 that I looked at
due to a lack of power steering.

I recently just found a 1977 F100 4X4. It has a 351M, p/s, c6 (rebuilt 3
months ago), long bed and a good, solid body. NO rust holes and only
moderate surface rust in the bed. It has a star bust crack in the center
of the windshild, doesn't look bad, but any ideas on how much that would
cost if I had to replace it? I cranked the motor and it is QUIET, no
bearing or mechanical noise, plus it turned right over, no grinding or even
a hard start. Interior is in decent shape, nothing serious. It also has
36 inch tires and a 6 inch lift kit. This thing is HUGE!

4X4 Questions -- He said the front bushing with the 4X4 need replaced. He
said that the front drive would slip in and out if the truck was twisted
due to the 4X4 assembly moving to much?? Is this correct? Can anyone see
any problems or anything with this truck, especially with the 4 wheel
drive? I've never had a 4X4, but this could be a good time to start.

BTW, I'm broke right now, so I gotta buy something reliable if anything at
all. (will have to get a loan for this most likely unless I get some cash
for something!)

What do ya'll think? PS.. THanks for all the help and advice. Ya'll are
a really help group, as most ford people are. Thanks and happy new year!


Matthew Hayduk
matt plusweb.net ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com

94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
9.176 76.069 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
- - K&N FIPK
- - Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with no tailpipes
- - Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 17:52:44 -0600
From: Rick_Thompson dell.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Change radius arm bushings on '77 2wd F250

Can someone help with changing the radius arm bushings on my 77 F250. Can
you do this without removing the coil springs?





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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 18:01:27 -0600
From: Rick_Thompson dell.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Heater Core Replacement on 77 F250 with A/C

Anyone changed a heater core on a 77 truck with air conditioning? My shop
manual says its beyond the home mechanic.

Rick


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 19:16:16 EST
From: IRLobuck aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest Dog Leggin some more

To "myshop",
Thanks for your input but the dog-leg you referenced is not the same as the
dog leggin we have been talking about. Your knee-knocking dog-leg is actually
the protruding rear edge of the windshield frame. Your knee-knocker should not
be confused with "knock-kneed", a form of mild physical deformity, or
"knocked-up". That reminds me of a funny story about a girl that I went to
school with, but that's another story.
LOBUCK
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 16:30:43 PST
From: "Andy D"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Change radius arm bushings on '77 2wd F250

>Can someone help with changing the radius arm bushings on my 77 F250.
Can
>you do this without removing the coil springs?

When I did my 70 F-100 I pulled the whole I-beam out. It was easy with
2 people. If you do not remove the break lines (I didn't) make sure
they do not stretch (set the I-beam on a block).

Andy
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/7464
ICQ# 13179729
70 F-100,360 2v (soon to be 4v),C/6
56 F-600,272 2v (soon to be factory 4v),4speed
56 F-100 Bigwindow,223 1v,3speed


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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 21:10:10 -0500
From: Walter Ford
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ball Joints

> I have a 79 F150 4x4 that I believe needs new ball joints. My
>Haynes Ford Pick-Ups & Bronco 73-79 Repair manual does not even include
>a section on Ball Joints. My paper back Chilton's 65-86 Ford Pickups
>Repair manual includes a section but seems to lump certain parts for
>certain years together that really doesn't make a lot of sense and makes
>it difficlult to understand.

I very much agree with you.. those books seem to never have what you need
when you need it.. or the pages are too greasy to read :-)

>So, after all that, here are my questions...
>The Chilton makes reference to a Special Ford Tool used to remove the
>ball joint. The picture supplied looks like a C-Clamp and perhaps some
>sockets used as a "cup". Is this the case or do I need to purchase a
>special tool?

I personally made use of a chisel set and a 3 pound hammer.. it worked
relatively easily on my 78 f-150.

>Second Question: In the explaination for removing the spindle the
>manual says...Remove the wheel bearing locknut, lock ring, and adjusting
>nut using special tool T59T-1197-B.... Do I actually need this special
>tool or will other tools that are more common to most of our tool boxes
>work? If I need it, where do I get it? A parts store? Does it have a
>common name?

You need a hub locknot socket.. it fits onto a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. I
got mine at the local autoparts chain for 13 dollars, and I have used it
quite a few times.

>And finally, I have some experience with removing 4x4 hubs and front
>end components but mostly on J**ps. Is there anything I should be
>especially aware of on my 79'. Oh yea, I also have a friend who needs
>the same thing (balljoints) on his 80' F`150 4x4. Are they pretty much
>the same? Should I practice on his first? ;-) Thanks in advance for
>any help anyone might have to offer.

The hubs on the dana 44's ( i imagine that is what you have) are actually
pretty easy to work with. just remember how you took them off and remember
to use a light grease when you assemble them, or they wont work, and you
will have to start all over again.

And Last but not least, good luck!!!

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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 22:10:04 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 Head Compatibility

In a message dated 12/30/98 10:34:34 PM Pacific Standard Time,
JJJJJGRANT aol.com writes:


be
like the d3ve you have. >>

The above is correct, about the D2VE and D3VE being the same, this gives you
an option. If you can not come up with a D0VE compatible head.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 22:56:23 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers for a 68 F100

In a message dated 12/31/98 4:31:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
danger csolutions.net writes:


bolt pattern? Does the CJ have a different bolt pattern for the exhaust? >>

I do not know for sure about the 428 CJ. But, in building my 460 I thought it
would be neat to use 429 SCJ heads. What I discovered is the bolt pattern is
the same but the exhaust port width is at least 3/16 bigger around. This
prevents headers for the standard head from properly sealing. I called Hooker
Headers and they told me that any headers they had for 460s in 1972 trucks
would leak shortly after installation and they would not recommend their
headers for my truck and engine. They did put me in contact with outfits that
make custom headers for $100 a tube (Ahggg). I did find Dark Horse
Performance who quoted me $380 for chromed tri-ys that would fit my truck and
heads. I did not get them, but instead purchased a set of Trick Flow Street
heads patterned after the SCJ heads. Trick Flow adjusted the size of the
ports down to get maximum flow for street performance. The stock SCJ heads
have ports that are way oversized for normal driving. The smaller ports allow
me to use standard headers thus solving the sealing problem and getting even
more performance. Why tell you all of this when you have FE style CJ heads?
I suspect the road block you have run into is similar.
....


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