61-79-list-digest Tuesday, December 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 575



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Calling all 429/460 Head experts!
FTE 61-79 - cold weather and brake fluid
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cold starting and Web page
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 to 360 Swap...
Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 F100 for $950, Good deal?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cold weather starting
FTE 61-79 - Tires and Wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest "Dog Leggin"
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:california emissions -alaska Cold start
Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 F100 for $950, Good deal?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest "Dog Leggin"
FTE 61-79 - 16" wheels for F150
Re: FTE 61-79 - 16" wheels for F150
FTE 61-79 - RE-Calling all 429/460 Head experts!
FTE 61-79 - 1971 crewcab
RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold starting and Web page
Re: FTE 61-79 - Calling all 429/460 Head experts!
Re: FTE 61-79 - HOLLEY VACUUM PROBLEM
Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 F100 for $950, Good deal?
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's
FTE 61-79 - Silver linings are golden

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 07:19:44 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Calling all 429/460 Head experts!

In a message dated 12/28/98 5:52:38 a.m. Eastern Standard Time, Tony writes:


have an extra passenger side DOVE-C head for me that they would be willing
to part with? HELP!!! 8-) >>

I'm no head expert but I have observed over time a funny thing about V-8's:
it is that the heads are machined so that they will work on either side (no
left or right)!!!
They should match though---someone should be able to tell you if these heads
are compatible with each other. Good luck.

--Thom B--
1967 F-250 4WD 390
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~Happy Holidays~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Free stuff is great---you always end up paying though.....
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 05:07:13 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cold weather and brake fluid

>>Funny thing is the brake fluid... It will freeze, or at least get
>>realthick.

The thing with brake fluid is that its designed to absorb water, even
from the air in an opened container. Brake fluid by itself will not
freeze in any temps normally found on the planet. But it will freeze if
it gets enough water in it.
My snowmobile uses DOT-3 brake fluid. The owners manual recommends that
if brake fluid needs to be added, to use fluid only from a new, sealed
container, and then to discard any unused portion.

Don Jones
85 f-150 supercab
70 f-250 4x4 ~Fordzilla~

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 07:32:25 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cold starting and Web page

>I think I solved my cold weather starting problem.

Great to hear it was just the choke, and nothing major ... (always fussin
with chokes around here ... too rich in the summer, too lean in the winter
...) Where're you located geographically ? You mentioned you might switch
to a 4V if you could find a manifold. I've got an extra from a 76ish 390.
I am however located in central Iowa, so it is a ways from most of you
guys. If anyone wants/needs it, lemme know, maybe we can work something
out ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 08:06:02 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 to 360 Swap...

>that, but to do it I had to pull the exhaust manifold. Snapped 3 of 4
>manifold bolts on the top side. Damn! Oh well, drilled those out,
>re-tapped the holes to take a 7/16ths instead of the 3/8ths. Bigger is
>better, right?

Something Dad and I used for way too long, when I snapped a bolt on my 360
we were able to use a small C-clamp (really small) and just use that to
clamp the top of the manifold/header to the head ... worked great for a
year or so, til we pulled the heads and had them fixed...



Next, I moved over to the drivers side. Got the donut
>on, slid the collector into the manifold, and.... The flange is a
>different size than on the manifold. Grrrr.... I wasn't able to pull
>the casting numbers off the manifold on the drivers side, so here's a
>POOR drawing.
>It's got multiple ribs on the "outside", and has a dip down in the
>middle that points down to the collector. It's bolted onto the head
>just fine, and I can't see any evidence of modifications to it. Now, on
>the '74 360 that I pulled off of it, the exhaust manifold is straight
>and smooth. No ribs, or dips. The casting number on the '74 manifold
>is D2TE9431AA.

This sounds like the differences I noticed when pulling apart a 76 390 and
comparing with a 74 360. Seems like it was a 74 or 5 part number on the
390 manifold. One other thing, there was a "choke valve" in the exhaust on
the driver's side of my 360 ... would that be the difference you noticed in
size ? Seems like the manifold wasn't beveled for the doughnut there
either, that it was just flat and mated with the valve directly, then the
valve was beveled ... I can check tonight holding the manifolds next to
each other and see if this looks like what you described ...


So I've got a few choices as I see it. Cut and weld on
>a new flange to fit the manifold that's on the motor now.

Seems reasonable ...

Pull the
>manifold off, and put mine from the '74 on (well, I'll have to find a
>new one, since I discovered when I pulled the '74 manifold off to clean
>it, that it's cracked.)

Hmmm... depends how plentiful the Fe's are around you ... don't think it
would be a problem around here ...

Third, leave the truck sitting, and re-build
>the 360 I pulled out (maybe convert it to a 390.. :)

Seems like you'd have the same problem though ... since you'd still need a
good driver's side manifold ...


Or finally, buy a
>stick of dynamite and blow the truck up, and go buy a Ch*&y. Just
>kidding....

I should hope ... then you'd have to leave this list ...

So. After all that, can anyone tell me what the manifold
>that is on the motor now is, and what would ya'll recommend? Thanks.

If you want me to get any information tonight when i get home, let me know
so I can get it writ down ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 06:58:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Arlene Mason
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 F100 for $950, Good deal?

OOO, OOOO, That's a good truck. In my opinion (of course, I have a '77
f100 :). If it runs you're way ahead of the game.

Arlene
'77 F100 - 400/C6

- ---Matthew Hayduk wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Merry Christmas! I have a chance to buy a 1977 F100 Custom Short
Bed with
> a 300 I6 with an automatic for $950. (Am gonna try to get it for
900). Is
> it worth this amount and are their any problems anyone can forsee?
>
> Specs:
>
> MOTOR--
> New Alternator, new battery, new carb, new positive and ground cables,
> motor looks/sounds good, no bearing or internal noise, just needs
washed
> real well. Exhaust manifold has a small crack (excuse for a 3
webber carb
> setup! :-)) and the tail pipe is gone after the very rusted muffler.
>
> TRANNY--
> Haven't driven it yet, but put it in/out of gear and other than a
bit of a
> jerk when it enguages into reverse, it fells ok. Anything I should
check?
>
> INTERIOR/EXTERIOR-
>
> Inter is ok. AM only radio, but it works. Seat is ok, everything
inside
> is decent for a 25+ year old truck. The bottom of both doors is
rusted in
> the corner a hold on the driver side and just a hint on the pass.
Bed has
> some small dents and a lot of scratches, but nothing serious.
>
> Can anyone think of anything else to look at or inspect or any
reason not
> to buy this truck. I want to use it as a driver and restor it in
the process.
>
> Thanks all and MERRY CHRISTMAS!
>
>
> Matthew Hayduk
> matt plusweb.net ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com
>
> 94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
> 9.176 76.069 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
> - K&N FIPK
> - Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with no tailpipes
> - Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 07:33:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Arlene Mason
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cold weather starting

It's not just FE's that have this trouble. My 400 is the same way. It
was having some choke trouble to boot... This made the first cold day
(last Monday) a real pain. Then, (please don't shoot me, it was my
fault) the radiator froze, and froze the water pump. But, luckily,
since we didn't have much water in it due to a terrible leak, nothing
else was damaged. - Now, I have the leak fixed and anti-freeze in the
radiator. I also, have the choke sort of fixed, temporarily. After the
first of the year, I want to get a 4 barrel carb and hopefully that
will fix the choke problem for good. As far as starting on a cold
morning, and keeping it going, we found last year that if we put a
piece of cardboard in front of the radiator it kept it warm enough to
at least let it keep running when the engine warmed up. Well, this
worked for me.

Arlene
77 F100 - 400/c6



- ---Andy D wrote:
>
> I have a 1970 F-100 with a 360 and C/6. When the temp is below 50
> outside it is hard to keep running until it warms up. I start it
and it
> starts fine but when I go to move (after letting it run for a minute
or
> two) it it chugs and dies. Then it will not restart for a day or
so.
> It acts like it is flooding out. I have all heater stuff (plate
between
> carb and manifold) in place except the tin that goes on the exhaust
to
> the air cleaner. Anyone have any ideas? I was always told the FEs
did
> not like cold weather but I didn't think it would be this bad.
>
> Andy
> 72 F-100
> 70 F-100
> 56 F-600
> 56 F-100
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:46:14 EST
From: Brett86gt aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Wheels

List,

I have a quick question. I'm looking to replace the tires (dry rotted) and/or
wheels on my newly acquired 74 F250 2WD. It currently has 16.5 in. 8 lug
rims. Will 16 in. rims fit? Also, what should I expect to pay for 16.5 x
8.75 tires? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Brett
74 F250 Ranger Supercab -"Propane Fueled"
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:59:10 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Wheels

>I have a quick question. I'm looking to replace the tires (dry rotted) and/or
>wheels on my newly acquired 74 F250 2WD. It currently has 16.5 in. 8 lug
>rims. Will 16 in. rims fit? Also, what should I expect to pay for 16.5 x
>8.75 tires? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

A good place to check on tire prices is : www.tirerack.com


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:25:36 -0800
From: "jeffd"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest "Dog Leggin"

I like your analogy, to bad the rest of the citizens can't figure this
out. Can we make an alignment rack for bad politicians?

Jeff
- ----------
> From: IRLobuck aol.com
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest "Dog Leggin"
> Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998 11:23 AM
>
> Jeff,
> Just because we Texans call it crawfishin doesn't necessarily mean it has
> anything to do with movement of crawfish. It probably has more to do
with
> politics, and let me give you an example. Recently the President was
asked
> some very tough questions, under oath. His response was to start
> "crawfishin", (side stepping the intent of the question while still
moving
> ahead with an answer). Your truck can be straightened out with a little
work,
> but unfortunately it appears that our president is intent on staying
crooked
> forever. Good luck to us all.
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:23:01 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:california emissions -alaska Cold start

hankg mtaonline.net wrote:
>
Anchorage and
> Fairbanks have emission test programs. anchorage goes back to 1968 for
> underhood and tail pipe. they also have a limit you have to spend for
> non compliance ( I read as fine!) cars that are not driven from
> november to march can be exempted since the history of epa violations
> are generally between those dates motorhomes, wild street rods, etc.

A good site for state by state emission requirements is at.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.covacvag.com/state.htm

OX
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:10:48 -0800
From: "jeffd"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 F100 for $950, Good deal?

Basically the same way. Lift the tire off the ground and place your hands
at 3 and 9, try to move the tire in and out. Feel for slop. Also do this at
12 and 6. Radius arm bushing are a visual inspection, look for oil and
tranny fluid coating. This will degrade the rubber. Look for cracks in the
rubber.

Jeff

- ----------
> From: Ed Mulligan
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 F100 for $950, Good deal?
> Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998 10:08 AM
>
> As someone looking to purchase his first pickup, how would I check these?
> Same as checking balljoints on a car?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ed
>
> At 09:07 AM 12/26/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >>> >Check the King pins, wheel bearings, radius arm bushings and have
> >>someone
>
>
> Ed & Laura Mulligan mulligan fullnet.net
> VISIT THE FLATHEAD FORD V-8 SITE - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.fullnet.net/mulligan/
> '92 5.0 LX I love the sound of Flowmasters in the morning!
> '98 Contour SE - Black/tinted - Darth Vader Jr., your car is ready.
> "Sometimes it is better to light a flamethrower than to curse the
darkness."
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:16:27 -0600
From: "Oscar Johnson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Wheels

Brett,

I don't know about the 16 inch wheels, but I have 16.5 X 9.50 Load Range
E Goodyear Workhorse Radials on my 1971 F250; cost me about $110 per tire
mounted and balanced with a service agreement.

Regards,
O.T. Johnson
Prattville, AL
1971 F250 Ranger XLT Camper Special 360 C6


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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:16:18 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest "Dog Leggin"

In a message dated 12/28/98 10:15:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, jeffd cari.net
writes:

>

How bout a Hangmans Noose?

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:06:44 -0700
From: Jason & Vedra Cajune
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 16" wheels for F150

I've got a 76' F150 with 15" wheels. I have a set of nearly new 235/75 16" Toyo Z's
which I'd like to put on it. I've been told by a wholesale wheel outlet that the only
16" stock wheels for this year of Ford had eight holes. Anybody know for sure if this
is true? It means I have to go with after market wheels and the rest of my truck is
stock. Any suggestions? I really don't like the standard white spoke wheels.

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:20:46 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 16" wheels for F150

Jason & Vedra Cajune wrote:
>
> I've got a 76' F150 with 15" wheels. I have a set of nearly new 235/75 16" Toyo Z's
> which I'd like to put on it. I've been told by a wholesale wheel outlet that the only
> 16" stock wheels for this year of Ford had eight holes. Anybody know for sure if this
> is true? It means I have to go with after market wheels and the rest of my truck is
> stock. Any suggestions? I really don't like the standard white spoke wheels.
>

My friend has 16.5 X 8, 5 lug white wheels on the front of his 79
Bronco. They came on the truck, so he does not know who made them. I
called around, but could not locate them anywhere. Not sure if they
make/made them 16" also. I imagine 16" wheels would be pretty easy to
find, as the low rider crowd loves the big wheel look and the 5 lug
pattern was std right up until 97.


OX
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:06:32 -0600
From: "Darkside"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE-Calling all 429/460 Head experts!

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:11:42 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Calling all 429/460 Head experts!

Hey all!

Today I was bored, so I decided to crack open the 429/460 (still not
sure
which it is!) that I had got for free helping a friend out. The
engine is
whole, and I know it ran because I drove the truck it was in. A while
back
I had posted that I got the head number off of it and it was a DOVE-C.
Well, here's the problem!
I took off the valve cover on one side and saw inside for the first
time-
it was beautiful and clean! I couldn't believe it. So I pulled the
exhaust manifold off of that side also (which all bolts came out
really
easy) and pulled the head to find the block also in beautiful shape.
Then
I went and took the valve cover off the other side and found different
rockers!!! after a little more investigation I found rusted old
numbers
that I *think* are "D3VE-A2A" on that head! I have two different
heads on
my free motor!! Now, I don't know anything about V8's, so somebody is
going to have to enlighten me on my options. Are these the same CC
chambers? The DOVE-C head has stud mounts for the rockers, but the
other
head has this "keyway" type groove cut into where the studs *would*
mount,
but the rocker bolts directly into the head in this hole, rather than
onto
the stud like the DOVE-C head. It looks to my "little brain" that I
could
machine the keyway type groove sides down flat and just put a stud in
that
head also just like the other one!? Is this a possibility? Does
anybody
have an extra passenger side DOVE-C head for me that they would be
willing
to part with? HELP!!! 8-)

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony


Tony,
What you have is two different year model heads, one is a 92cc, and
the other is around 74cc's. If possible, try to find another DOVE
head. All 429/460 heads are the same I.E. (left and right) so either
side is the same. If you assemble the motor with the different
chambers (D3VE and DOVE), I can almost guarantee you'll have tuning
problems you won't be able to fix. There's an easy way to tell what
you have (429/460), just look at the crank, on the front of the first
counter weight there will be a small BUMP, about 1/2 high and 3" long,
if It's a 460, If not, It's a 429. I have several different sets of
heads, just Email me.

Curts Customs
curtscustm wwisp.com


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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 19:20:34 EST
From: RodCarlton aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1971 crewcab

HEY TIM BOMEN IS THE CREWCAB STILL IN THE AREA ICOULD USE A CAB THE ONE I
HAVE HAS SUPER BAD RUST 71 F-350 RODCARLTON AOL.COM 71 CREWCAB 72 F-100
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 19:34:52 -0500
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold starting and Web page

Email me privately, I'm interested.

coolestdude usa.net

Ken

If anyone wants/needs it, lemme know, maybe we can work something
> out ...

> Just my 2cents
>
> Bill

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 21:51:16 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Calling all 429/460 Head experts!

Tony,

Sounds like someone did a number on this engine, probably went to the wrecking
yard and got a head. As you know the DOVE-C is a 1970 or 71 head with the
75cc combustion chambers. The D3VE A2A is a 1973 or 74 head with 91cc
combustion chambers. I have been doing this for a few years and the only way
I know of to verify that the engine is a 460 or 429, assuming you do not have
or do not trust the tag or decal on the valve cover, is to look at the casting
number on the crank shaft. It is located on the side of the forward most
throw. If it is a 429 it will be 4U or 4UA, in either case it is a 429. The
460 has a few more choices, basically anything with a Y in it is a 460, such
as: 2Y, 2YA, 2YAB, 2YABC, or 3Y. The 3Y is 1979 and up.
If you find 460 cast into the block somewhere it does not mean it is a 460
there is no difference in a 429 or 460 block. You might want to look at the
build date on the block, assuming this engine has same lower end install that
it came with, it might give a clue as to the pistons used. This number is
stamped on the front upper right hand corner of the block in an area that is
machined flat just for this stamp. Just below the head and next to the timing
chain cover. For example the engine I built up for my 1972 says 3-M4 W,
translated the 3 is for 1973, M is for the 12th month the letter I is not used
therefore M is the 12th letter of the alphabet, and 4 is the day of the month.
In other words December 4, 1973 was the factory build date of my engine. This
is good info to make decisions as to block deck height type of pistons and so
forth. As for the difference in the rocker arms it does not matter much which
type you use, unless you are going for high RPM 5500 and up. In which case I
would not use either of them, get some roller tips. Summit sells rocker arm
stud conversion kits for the heads that have the stamped steel rockers and
bolts. One thing for sure do not continue to run the heads with the vastly
different combustion chamber sizes. I can not imagine any good coming from
this. Once you figure out what you have and where you are going please ask
more questions. I think you have very good potential at hand. Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 22:18:26 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - HOLLEY VACUUM PROBLEM

6 inches of vacuum is not right for the conditions you described, (No Duh).
Do not hit me for asking but, is it possible that you are measuring the vacuum
on a spark port on the carb and not the true manifold vacuum that the power
valve operates on? I guess what I am saying is unless something is pulling
the engine down, (heavy load, steep up hill, or a major problem with the
camshaft), then 6 inches is not likely. I have to be at least one third
throttle at low RPM to drop this low. Under your described conditions at 50 I
need to have half throttle get this low. Try a different vacuum port. I may
be wrong, please keep us posted as I think this is very unusual.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 23:01:32 -0500
From: Matthew Hayduk
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 77 F100 for $950, Good deal?

At 06:58 AM 12/28/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
>OOO, OOOO, That's a good truck. In my opinion (of course, I have a '77
>f100 :). If it runs you're way ahead of the game.


It doesn't have power stearing and well, that is just a SOB to drive
everyday...


Matthew Hayduk
matt plusweb.net ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com

94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
9.176 76.069 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
- - K&N FIPK
- - Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with no tailpipes
- - Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 23:28:08 -0500
From: Mark Heidotting
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's

Christopher Denson wrote:
>
> Hey you all,
> I hope everyone is enjoying their Christmas! Well there's been
> discussion in my neck of woods about FE's actually being Y-blocks (not
> to be confused with 292,312 family) because of their shape. I always
> thought FE's were V-8's. Can one of you FE experts enlighten me?

Actually, the FE is both. The general design characteristic
of having a skirt around the crankshaft makes it a "Y-block"
design, so called because if you look at the bare block from
the front it has a sort of "Y" shape. Engines like the V8
Chevrolet (big and small block) don't have that skirt; their
blocks end at the crank centerline. The Ford small block,
Cleveland, and Lima engines are like that, too, as is the
small block Chrysler.

The new Modular V8s from Ford have the old deep-skirted design;
it was (is) tough and dependable and can withstand gobs of abuse.
Ford used to build other Y-block designs, too. There was the old
Lincoln-Mercury V8 (1952-1957, 317/341/368), the Ford OHV V8 (1954-1964,
239/256/272/292/312), and the MEL V8 (1958-1968, 383/410/430/462).

Oh, and by the way, Ford isn't the only one who used that design
feature. Mopar used it in their B/RB engines, including the Hemi.

Of course, these are all V8s, because the cylinder bore centerlines
converge at the crank centerline at ninety degrees to each other and
forty-five degrees to horizontal, making a V. What makes one a Y or
not is that skirt or lack thereof.

> Also when I top off my tanks on a hot day, or a long trip, the gas comes
> back out the caps. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there anyway to
> fix this? It's not good for the new paint job.

That's because the gasoline is being taken from a relatively cool
environment (an underground tank) and being placed in an environment
that's warmer, causing it to expand. If you top the tank off at a
fillup,
you aren't leaving enough room in the tank for the gasoline to expand,
and the result is it will be forced out the gas filler neck. There
isn't
really anything you can do about it but just not fill it up all the
way.
Run the pump until it clicks off by itself, then just round it up to the
next twenty five cents or so. If it still gives you a problem, I'd just
start pumping only ten or fifteen dollars into it when it drops to a 1/4
tank.

Hope that helps....

Mark

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Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 00:13:20 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Silver linings are golden

To everyone
We would like to thank everyone for a very marry Christmas. It was
going to be a blue Christmas. Though our kids presents hadn't been
touched by the fire we weren't allowed to take them. No lights or tree
to decorate our home. We conceded to the thought this Christmas was
going to pass us by. A trip to the post office and an envelope proved to
us God doesn't forget.
I opened the envelope and my eyes filled with tears. Teddi (my wife)
asked what it was. I handed it to her and she could only gasp, putting....


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