61-79-list-digest Tuesday, December 8 1998 Volume 02 : Number 552



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor gear oiling on a 460
FTE 61-79 - Man Fixes '69 Ammeter Without Altering Shunt!
FTE 61-79 - 71 to 72 model seat differences
Re: FTE 61-79 - Idiot Lights
FTE 61-79 - Dynomax Headers - James?
FTE 61-79 - 6spd Superduty Transmission
FTE 61-79 - pinion seal
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Distributor gear oiling on a 460
FTE 61-79 - brake lines and tools
FTE 61-79 - F-150 Seat covers
FTE 61-79 - Re: Dynomax Headers - James?
FTE 61-79 - power steering - 69 F-100
FTE 61-79 - 74 F250
Re: FTE 61-79 - M series flat tops
FTE 61-79 - Big 15" tires
FTE 61-79 - tranny tunnel
Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor gear oiling on a 460
FTE 61-79 - Pistons & info
Re: FTE 61-79 - M series flat tops
FTE 61-79 - FE390 flywheel wanted
Re: FTE 61-79 - 6 cylinder engine in 64 F100
FTE 61-79 - Engine Parts Source
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Chat
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sprayliner
Re: FTE 61-79 - Serpentine Belt Conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Serpentine Belt Conversion
FTE 61-79 - Ford 4x4 article
Re: FTE 61-79 - water pump
Re: FTE 61-79 - 71 to 72 model seat differences
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Line Flaring Tool
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Re closed Tranny? and added : Manual Locator.........
FTE 61-79 - Re:List Questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - 71 to 72 model seat differences
Re: FTE 61-79 - Serpentine Belt Conversion
FTE 61-79 - Re: Pinion seal
FTE 61-79 - Plastic Bedliner WARNING
FTE 61-79 - Bedliners, wooden
FTE 61-79 - Anti-theft Devices
Re: FTE 61-79 - Anti-theft Devices
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE390 flywheel wanted
Re: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250

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Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 08:09:52 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor gear oiling on a 460

I think it would be hard to stop oil lubrication to the gear to
>the point of causing severe wear without other parts suffering also. One
>thing that might help, depending on the type of oil you are currently using,
>is a low weight such as 5W30, even 0W30, or a synthetic as they move easier
>than petroleum and would work the pump less and provide excellent protection
>for your engine. I use a synthetic just for the increase in gas mileage.


A friend of mine is having a similar problem with a 351W he built. It only
ran for about 15 minutes or so, then sheared the gear...replaced it ... 40
min. later, sheared gear. Now the one on his cam is shot too, he also
pulled the cam, and what a mess. The cam has some really neat profiles
now....each cylinder being different of course ... and the lifters are ..
well not exactly flat anymore ... its not pretty. Anyway if you find out
what's happening with this 460, please let us know, he really wants to get
his car going ...

Thanks
Bill
*****************************************************************************
* William S. Hart * Phone: (515) 294-3296 *
*Computer Lab Support Specialist * Mail: 291 Durham Center *
* 219 Durham Center * Fax : (515) 294-1717 *
* Ames, Iowa 50011-2251 * email : wish iastate.edu *
*****************************************************************************
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:22:41 -0600
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Man Fixes '69 Ammeter Without Altering Shunt!

Yes! That's Right! I now have a working ammeter in my '69 F-100 and I did
nothing to change the shunt!

How did I do this?

I have not a clue. Chuckle. When repairing the smoked wire from my
recent mishap (thanks again to all who replied) I unwrapped a fair amount
of the harness looking towards fixing the ammeter shunt at the same time. A
couple of observations-tips:
The wiring colors on the '69 do not match the color codes of any of the
schematics that have been sent to me, particularly in the charging circuit.
Some do, some don't. Noodle away.
The connectors (number of and number of leads per) do not match the
description in Tom Hogan's write-up from the archives. Noodle away.
If I have deciphered it all correctly, The black with yellow striped wire is
supposed to be the shunt. It attaches to the lead from the solenoid to
ammeter, about 5 inches from the ammeter. Black with Yellow, large black
from solenoid, and two different gauges of yellow are all molded together in
a round plug hidden in the harness. The other iend of Black with yellow,
along with the green with red, and two yellows are then molded into a 4
prong plug that connects to the wiring harness. ALL of these wires have
continuity to the ignition switch. (Yes Steve, I do own a multi-meter, three
in fact).
Another red and yellow from the wiring harness attach directly to the
positive (battery) terminal of the solenoid, on the same post with the
battery lead, and the heavy gauge black that runs from the solenoid to
(eventually) ammeter. Tracing this black, it goes from the solenoid, down
the harness towards the next wrapped Y-junction, then takes off towards the
regulator, is doubled back on itself at the radiator and runs all the way
back to the aforementioned bundled connection with black/yellow and 2
yellows near the alternator. This got me to wondering if THIS wire was
supposed to function as shunt, with it's extra runs etc. It would also be a
connection that could be read as matching schematics (remember, shunt and
solenoid to bat are in parallel).
As I reassembled all of this (including new dash bulbs and a good
underdash brush and vacuum), was pondering the feasibility of just
disconnecting the black at the solenoid post and (without the truck running)
clipping wires in between it and the solenoid to see if it would function as
an increased resistance shunt, rather than splicing anything. I hooked
everything up, and lo and behold, without even doing this, THE AMMETER
WORKED!
The only change in wiring path was moving the black/orange wire
(regulator case ground) from the GRD terminal of the Alternator to the
unmarked case ground terminal, which is as shown in schematics. Could it be
that so many of these trucks do not have working ammeters because of that
one wire not being connected correctly? I doubt it.
I have a suspicion that what makes the difference is the pattern of
connecting all the leads at the solenoid post. We have all had those moments
of "now, let's see, was that washer between these, or on top of these". It
is possible that despite logic, altering the connections at this post could
change resistance from the black to the red-and-yellow-wire connector that
also attaches there, increasing the resistance of the shunt sufficiently to
allow the ammeter to work. Mine is very limited in normal range of movement,
about a needle's width of discharge with the headlights on, engine not
running, etc. This is normal in my experience for factory ammeters, and
judging by the archives means absolute minimal resistance increase.

Wish I knew the absolute truth. Subject tabled for explanation. (Do I hear
gears turning in Steve's head?)

Jim E.



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Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 08:23:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 71 to 72 model seat differences

I have been tearing apart SWMBO grandfather's '72 effie the last few days
and when I snatched the seat out, I noticed it does not flip forward like
the '71 model I have. A few months back I pondered buying a '72 LWB while
the '71 was being restored, I noticed the same thing. Just curious if
others have noticed this difference. Anyone with an original seat from a 71
or 72 that doesn't work as I have described?? Anyone have a reason why the
seats changed at the end of 71??

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

I firmly believe Humpty Dumpty was pushed.......

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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 06:46:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Arlene Mason
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Idiot Lights

My '77 F-100 has all of the gauges, oil pressure, ammeter, temp, and
of course gas. And from what I have gathered, there were certain ones
that did. I know in the 60's that was what the Custom was. (Tell ya
how I know, my Grandfather's truck was a '65 F-100, 6 cyl. and had
idiot lights. My dad's truck was a '66 F-100, 8 cyl. Custom, with
gauges. Dad never missed an opportunity to emphasize the IDIOT in
idiot lights, just to make Grandpa angry.)

Arlene
'77 F-100, 400/C6


- ---"J.S.H." wrote:
>
> ">>The 250 has ammeter and oil pressure gauges, the 100 has idiot
> lights. I have the correct senders on the motor but will the
> wiring harness be the same so I can just swap clusters?
>
> "No. Wiring harnesses and connectors at the clusters are different."
>
> 100% correct.
> Went through this with my 76.It's a real SOB to convert to gauges and
> when you finally get it done you have gauges that are inaccurate at
> best.I would keep the idiot lights and install aftermarket gauges
>
>
> I vote 65-79 list.
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 06:46:20 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dynomax Headers - James?

Way back in October, "James A. Doty" wrote:

> I'm running a 351W with an Edelbrock 600cmf 4 barrel carb,
> and dual plane manafold. I'm also using Dynomax exhaust
> headers and a Flowmaster Muffler



> The exhaust headers are ceramic coated and although I
> know it's really too early to tell (They've been installed
> for only a couple of months.) they still look real good.

I put the non-coated Dynomax headers in my F-250 thinking that
the motor was eventually going into a 4X4 and I would have to
get new headers anyway. Turns out I was right and am now in
search of some good headers.

I called Stan's but it looks like he does not offer ceramic
coating (even though Performance Coatings is right near him).
He offered to sell me the headers bare metal for $25 off the
price. Saving $25 off a $350 set of headers just to spend
another couple hundred or so on Ceramic is getting a little
high.

I looked at the Doug Thorley Tri-Y's and it appears they
only come in Chrome also.

So now I am thinking about coated Dynomax headers. They run
about $200 at Summit. I was pleasantly surprized at the
quality of this inexpensive header. The flange seal was
made by building up some material around the ports and then
milling them flat. I had no installation problems and I
don't have any leaks. I am using those sintered metal
header gaskets and tighten them now and then.

So if James, or anyone else who has Dynomax coated headers,
reads this,

How are your headers doing? When you got them did it look
like they did a good job with the coating? Could you tell
if the insides of the tubes were coated well?

Mark
'74 F-250 Supercab
'74 F-100 4X4
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 06:48:48 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 6spd Superduty Transmission

Sorry if this has been discussed before. As a new member, I did
skim through all the archives and saved lots of good information
that interested me. Since I wasn't thinking about this at the
time, I would have glossed right over it.

A buddy of mine's truck has an FE, 4sp manual, and NP205. He
has been drooling over the new 6spd. transmissions in the Super
Duty's. Apparently they have a granny low and overdrive. Has
anyone looked into doing this conversion? Anyone familiar
enough with the transmission to know if it is something worth
persuing?

Mark
'74 F-250 Supercab
'74 F-100 4X4
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:56:15 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pinion seal

Hey Drew,

Replacing the seal in the Dana 60 is a snap.....just pull the yoke out, pop
out the old seal, tap in the new one, and put the yoke back in. The seal rides
against the yoke. Be sure to take the old seal with you to the parts house,
seems like Dana had a couple of different pinion shaft diameters....at least
there are always two included in the kits I've gotten in the past.... Since
you aren't changing anything inside, no need to worry about "inch-pound and
shim" stuff......you might replace the pinion nut while you are at it....but
its probably not necessary....

Good Luck!

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 07:58:31 -0700
From: Mike Orendorf
Subject: Subject: FTE 61-79 - Distributor gear oiling on a 460



I'm having a problem with my new 460. It's just eaten 2 distributor gears,
and I'm wondering if it;s getting enough oil.
I have a sumit cam, ford motorsports high volume oil pump, in a 79 460 block.
I have 70-75lbs of oil pressure at idle cold, and 60-65 lbs at idle once it
has gone 12 miles some of it highway. I personally looked at the cam bearings
after I had them replaced and they were all lined up right.

Anyone have any suggestions? >>

I run a high volume oil pump in my 460 and have had no problems, but when I got the
Distributor, (Mallory Unilite) I was informed that there are two types of gear
ratios where the distributor and camshaft mesh. You might have the wrong gears on
your dis. and its being eaten up because of that. My understanding is also that the
gear on the distributor is made of softer metal on purpose so if something goes bad,
its your distributor, not your cam (which is harder to take out)

- - Mike

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Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 08:56:55 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake lines and tools

>Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:08:49 EST
>From: BDIJXS aol.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake Line Flaring Tool
>
>Does anyone have a good brake line double flare kit? If so, where did you get
>it? I bought one at the parts house to get me by, but its pretty Mickey....now
>looking for a good one....
>
>Colorado Jeff

Jeff,

When you get done with your brother-in-laws truck, I'll let you come
on over to do my new brake lines. :) Please Share this info if with me if
someone replies privately as I need a good brake line flaring tool/kit also.

BTW- Did you get that t case shifter knob from that *no good* Tony Marino
guy?? Recent college grads ain't worth a flip are they! he he he he ;^P

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu
Humpty Dumpty was pushed!

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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:41:38 -0500
From: pdesanto Cinergy.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F-150 Seat covers

Hi all, anybody know where a guy can find a replacement seat cover for a
Ford truck seat ? One that goes on the way the factory covers do,( FIT ) not
a "slip over" unit from Wal-mart. The only ones I've seen that look even
close are from Whitney. Anybody had any luck with those ? Or any others ?
Thanx............Email me direct if you want.
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Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 08:08:34 -0800
From: "James A. Doty"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dynomax Headers - James?

draco pacifier.com wrote:
>
> Way back in October, "James A. Doty" wrote:
>
> > I'm running a 351W with an Edelbrock 600cmf 4 barrel carb,
> > and dual plane manafold. I'm also using Dynomax exhaust
> > headers and a Flowmaster Muffler

> How are your headers doing? When you got them did it look
> like they did a good job with the coating? Could you tell
> if the insides of the tubes were coated well?

Hi there:

My headers are still holding up quite nicely. I'm very pleased
with them.

The ceramic coating was on the inside and outside and although
I can't see the inside anymore the outside still looks good.

We'll see what winter does to them.
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:07:24 -0600
From: juredd - Justin Reddell
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power steering - 69 F-100

I spent about 5 hours over the weekend trying to make my new power steering gear (not really new just new to me) work with my old 3 speed on the fly column. Well it didn't work. I wanted to keep the shifter out of the floor so I attempted replacing the center core piece (don't know the correct term) with a shorter one out of an automatic steering column that had power steering on it. Instead of it being to long, it is too short. I have tried everything I know of to make this work besides cutting my old column off and I am afraid that, that will mess up my shifter arms. Anybody have any ideas? Did power steering come out in 3 speed on the column trucks or just automatics or floor shifters. If not It will save me valuable time looking for one.


Thanks for the time,
Justin
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:12:34 EST
From: Brett86gt aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250

New to the list and Ford Pickups,

I have a few questions. How rare is a 1974 F250 Supercab longbed w/ Ranger
package and 460 V8? I inherited it from my Grandfather, who purchased it new
in 74. At which time he converted it to run on Propane (owned Propane Co.).
This truck is an Auto and has cloth insert seats, jumpseats in back, AM/FM
Radio, Ford Deluxe Topper and is all original. Body is in good shape except
for rust on tailgate and read corner of bed. Any ideas on its value (has what
I guess is 144,000)? Does anyone know if an engine run exclusively on
Propane have any advantages over one on Gas? i.e cleaner Any info on Propane
automobiles is appreciated. My other car is an 86 Fiero GT, a wee bit
smaller.

Thanks,

Brett
Tallahassee FL
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:21:35 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M series flat tops

>From: Steve & Rockette Leitch
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M series flat tops
>
>400 pistons are available forged, TRW # L2414F, but I
>think they're for a stock style rebuilt......

Yo Bill & Steve:

I was told by a Fed. Mogul rep that the TRW L2414F forged piston (400) was
designed for "stock" compression, which would be about 8.4:1 w/ the stock
M-block 78.4cc head. The TRW L2466F forged piston (351M) is designed for
8.6:1 compression, again based on the stock M-block head. Fed. Mogul also
offers a stock compression (8.0:1) forged 351M piston, TRW L2436F.

351M pistons are not interchangeable w/ 400 pistons because the 351M uses
the same connecting rod w/ 0.50" shorter stroke. To make up the difference
in stroke using the same rods, the 351M piston has a taller compression
height (distance from pin center to piston top) to get the piston top high
enough in the cylinder.

When the 400 was introduced in 1971, it came w/ a flat top piston rated for
9.0:1 compression, but I have not been able to find a major piston
manufacturer that still makes an OEM replacement for the 1971 flat top 400
piston.

>M-block rod = 6.580, 0.025 short, no wonder they
>make a noce amount of torque.......

With a 4.00" crankshaft stroke, the 400 M-block also has the longest stroke
of any Ford V8 engine, another contributor to high torque.

>I may not be an M-Block Devotee, But I do have a
>great deat of respect for Henry's Red-headded
>step child.......

I was thinking of making a comment about you being a "closet" M-block
devotee and about how I was thinking of organizing an M-Block Pride parade
in San Francisco, but never mind....

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 12:32:40 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Big 15" tires

Ox,

I am pretty sure that you said several of your four wheeling pals were
running 35" tires on 5 lug 15" wheels without any problems. If you say it
works, that's enough for me.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 12:38:21 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - tranny tunnel

Just an FYI gang,

SWMBO gave me some floor mats for Christmas and even let me have them
already. The two mats are identical. The one on the left side has about 6
inches total side to side that it doesn't cover. The one on the right
covers the floor from the door to the tunnel. In other words, the tunnel
isn't in the middle of the truck! Just in case any of you guys who are
replacing floor pans didn't measure.

BTW, the mats say: Ford The Best Never Rest. But we knew that already.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:50:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Distributor gear oiling on a 460

Matt writes:

> I'm having a problem with my new 460. It's just eaten 2 distributor gears,
> and I'm wondering if it;s getting enough oil.
> I have a sumit cam, ford motorsports high volume oil pump, in a 79 460 block.

Well, how 'new'? Ground crank, new bearings, etc? What weight/type oil?
Where are you located (temperature?).

> I have 70-75lbs of oil pressure at idle cold, and 60-65 lbs at idle once it
> has gone 12 miles some of it highway. I personally looked at the cam bearings
> after I had them replaced and they were all lined up right.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions?

I'll guess :-). You have a high volume oil pump in a stock engine. It's
working very hard to hold the bypass valve open at 60-65 psi. With new
bearings and standard clearences, a stock pump should work just fine.
Now, if you set the bearing clearances on the loose side for racing,
then you need a high volume pump.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 12:16:37 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pistons & info

Yo Fellow FTE Gearheads:

While looking for more M-block piston options (the Holy Grail) I came
across some nifty technical articles about piston design and high
performance at the KB Silv-o-lite web page. Check out the "Technical
Stuff" links at the following URL: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kb-silvolite.com/1toc.htm

I am not affiliated w/ united Engine and Machine Company in any way, but I
am a satisfied user of some of their products.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:43:16 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M series flat tops

Dave Resch wrote:

> I was told by a Fed. Mogul rep that the TRW L2414F forged piston (400) was
> designed for "stock" compression, which would be about 8.4:1 w/ the stock
> M-block 78.4cc head.

Dave

If you remember we were talking about cams and V/P clearance a while
back. Hopefully, I'll be doing my 400 build this winter. I'd like to get
it up to 9.0:1 and was wondering about having the heads shaved. Would
this be enough to increase comp that much. Also, how would shaving the
head play into the max .490 cam lift you said I could og before I would
need new valve springs? One final question, what do you think of cams
rated off idle or 500 RPM to 4500 RPM. This truck, at this point, only
sees severe off-road duty (deep mud) and driving back and forth to the
trails

Thanks in advance

OX
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 12:49:53 -0800 (PST)
From: TheFORDMAN webtv.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE390 flywheel wanted

hey all,
i'm in need of a flywheel w/ good ring gear mine is eating up starters
.my engine is a
390 501 casting manual trans unit. any help would be greatly
appreciated. i'm not
very rich man,
thanks in advance
Eric
75 Ford F100 4x4




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Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 16:36:38 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 6 cylinder engine in 64 F100

I'm pretty sure the first 300 was available in '70

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 01:37 AM 12/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Can anyone advise which 6 cylinder engines were available for the 1964
>model year. Also when was the 300 six first introduced?
>Thanks Greg
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>
>
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:52:37 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Parts Source

I've seen a few people looking for FE engine parts like stock 4-barrel
manifolds, Tri-Powers, etc. I found a place in Denver that has a bunch of
things like this. The name it Blue Oval Performance Engineering (303)
762-8298. He had several cast iron exhaust headers also.....he just finished
building a 427 cammer for somebody, but I just missed seeing it..

Colorado Jeff
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:00:35 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Chat

The registration email problems with the chat have been
corrected. If you've already registered, you'll have to
register again.

If you use AOL, you cannot use the chat at this point.
AOL's browser is brain damaged and will not talk through
ports other than 80 and 8080. The chat client requires use
of ports 3334-3336. Please don't complain to me about it,
it's AOL's fault. I know of no other ISP that has this
problem. I'm working on a telnet version of the chat, but
I cannot promise that it will work with AOL. If it means
alot to you, switch providers.

Also, the chat may or may not function behind a firewall,
depending on whether ports 3334-3336 are filtered out.

Other than the email problems (which have been corrected),
this chat server has been rock solid and will not be
replaced. I have neither the time nor money to invest in
another server. I've already spent nearly 40 hours in
the last month on the chat problems.

If your browser doesn't work, try upgrading it to the
latest version since the upgrades for Netscape and
Internet Explorer are free. I cannot solve browser Java
implementation problems. Numerous bugs exist in earlier
implementations of Java that have been corrected.

I've talked to many people, both chat server admins and
the chat users on their systems, about this server and
99% of the responses were positive.

Ken Payne
Admin

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 16:13:09 -0500
From: "Clare Waterman-Storer, Ph.D."
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sprayliner

I too am interested in spray in liners- this was very helpful info. however the
website you put in http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.speedliner.com is not for a truck liner, but for
some company called digital press. do you have the correct url or if not do
youknow of any dealers in the central north carolina area that i could get some
product info from?

thanks,

clare

Phazelag aol.com wrote:

> I used to have a drop in liner in my truck. I hated it. It rubbed off the
> paint in my truck and then rusted underneath. I went looking for a spray-in
> and ended up owning a spray-liner business. I dont have the business anymore
> because I am in the military and had to move but I still have the equipment if
> you live in Tenn I can give you a deal. But anyway I prefer any spray-liner
> over no liner or a drop-in. Yes you have to ready for a permanant liner. I
> have removed them before but it will take half a day. Ther is no damage to
> the bed though. The fast way is to use a blow torch over it lightly until it
> starts seperate or the bond weekens. Unless you are doing a comlete stack
> restoration. I dont know why you woud want to. These liners provide
> protection thats unbeatable and look great. You should be leary of Rhino and
> some others. They will fade in the sun after a year and get a white spot in
> the middle. Dont use paint type spray-ins either, its just tough paint that
> is scratchy and it too will fade and has to grinded out ruining your bed.
> These liners are expensive so find someone who has been doing it a while.
> Just because its a large name brand doesnt mean the guy spraying it is good.
> It took me several screw-ups before I got good. it is an art. theyll so no
> its perfect every time but its not. you have to practice getting an even coat.
> I spray the "Speedliner Brand" you can find a dealer near you at
> www.speedliner.com. Anything plastic or paint will fade eventually but
> speeedliners will not fade any faster the your paint, it got the highest UV
> protection. They can custom color match your paint. The color match only
> cost them for a pint of matched pigment so ask for that reciept if they try to
> charge you more than $50 for the match. If your truck is metallic see if they
> have a factory color that will look good in your bed or go with black. The
> factory colors dont cost them any more than black does. There is a Kevlar
> Option for strength but its not significant and its not as smooth as without
> kevlar. Mine without has never been marked and I slide heavy metel objects on
> it all the time. Its not bullet proof though you can cut it with a razor, its
> hard to tear it. The Kevlar Option only cost the dealer $3 per bag and thats
> one per gallon. Usually four or five on a standard truck. Thats a total of
> $15 and I used to charge $50 for the Kevlar Option. If you do tear it you can
> glue it back down and the dealer shouldnt charge you to fix it if you go to
> him on a day when he is already spraying your color or its convieniant for
> him. Speadliner repairs dont look like a patch job. Rhino and Line-X repairs
> do look like a patch job. If your rhino has faded you can get it top coated
> by speedliner and it will be stronger and look better. I Know this is allot,
> but its allot of money. About $350 for a 6 foot bed. $450 for an 8 foot.
> Over the rails should not cost extra either. Good luck
> Phazelag
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:45:38 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Serpentine Belt Conversion

Thanks!

I've looked at 4 wrecking yards since the last email, and have found
nothing. How much you want for it?

oh yea, is the A/C cluth any diffrent with that pulley than a regular? If
so, i would like to get the cluth from ya too..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 07:21 PM 11/29/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I've got a york compressor with the serpentine style pulley on it. It came
>off of an 80 Merc cougar with a 302. If you cant find one, lemme know and
>I'll yank this pulley off for ya. Just lemme know.
>
>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350 "Tweety"
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:52:55 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Serpentine Belt Conversion

Oh yea, one other thing, do you know how the bracketry was set up on the
engine? The bracket I have know has a little idler pulley for the
compressor. I didnt get a diffrent bracket, but I assume I will have to.
If not, is the idler pulley also serpentine, if so, how? Because I know
that the they would not line up correctly with the rest..

thanx,
cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 07:21 PM 11/29/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I've got a york compressor with the serpentine style pulley on it. It came
>off of an 80 Merc cougar with a 302. If you cant find one, lemme know and
>I'll yank this pulley off for ya. Just lemme know.
>
>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350 "Tweety"
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:28:42 -0500
From: "Harvey, Blaine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ford 4x4 article

The January 99 4Wheel and Off-Road mag has an article on parts and
building of 67-79 4x4 F100-150 and 78-79 Bronchos. I didn't get deeply
into it, only scanned it briefly at the "this is not a library" newstand
but it looks like it would be of interest to 4x4 owners.

> ---
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 23:30:37 -0500
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - water pump

>Serpentine-belt water pumps are reverse rotation. If you put a
>reverse-rotation
>pump on an engine requiring a standard-rotation pump (or vice-versa), the pump
>will not work and overheating is usually the result.

I finally got out there today and swapped my heater hoses around to see
what difference it would make. I had heat most of the time while I was
driving around but it did go cool on me a couple of times. I'm getting a
feeling that I might have something clogging up the heater core and switch
the hoses around worked most of it lose. When I installed the rad into the
truck in the summer, I had just straight water in it for a number of weeks
until we had the engine fired up and we knew we had no leaks. There was no
sense in throwing antifreeze in it right away just to end up draining it
out. It was a good idea because my block heater ended up leaking and had to
be reinstalled. When we went to drain some of the water out and add
antifreeze, I noticed soft, round egg-like balls sitting in the top of the
rad. There wasn't a whole lot there but there might have been more down
inside the rad. While I had the truck sitting with water in it, I'm pretty
sure the rad cap wasn't on most of the time. I had the hood installed at
that point and never thought that perhaps some kind of insect might lay
eggs in my rad. Engine heat hasn't seemed to have broken down those round
egg things so I'm not sure what happened to all of them...probably in my
heater core.

But, at least the truck is not overheating anymore and I have a proper
antifreeze mix so that I don't have to worry about it freezing again. I can
handle the lukewarm air from the heater except when the windshield has
fogged up. It's my fiance, who'll be griping about cold feet when she's
home for the holidays. :-)



David Wadson (wadsond air.on.ca)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:05:18 -0800
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 71 to 72 model seat differences

I don't know about 71, but my 72 seat flips forward, at least the top half does.

Mike in Seattle

Stu Varner wrote:

> I have been tearing apart SWMBO grandfather's '72 effie the last few days
> and when I snatched the seat out, I noticed it does not flip forward like
> the '71 model I have. A few months back I pondered buying a '72 LWB while
> the '71 was being restored, I noticed the same thing. Just curious if
> others have noticed this difference. Anyone with an original seat from a 71
> or 72 that doesn't work as I have described?? Anyone have a reason why the
> seats changed at the end of 71??
>
> Stu
> Nuke GM!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu
>
> I firmly believe Humpty Dumpty was pushed.......
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:07:10 EST
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Line Flaring Tool

In a message dated 12/6/98 9:18:57 PM Central Standard Time, stoney ford-
trucks.com writes:

> You can usually get you local Ace hardware to flare the end of your line
> for free.
Be sure it is DOUBLE flared!
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:55:39 -0500
From: Lord_Xaenon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Re closed Tranny? and added : Manual Locator.........

At 12:18 AM 11/30/98 EST, you wrote:

>The one I have has the numbers (8576) 26662 on the cover, and the book itself
>is gray, and has a tan/brown F-150 XLT (80's style) in the center.
>The one I have has 28 pages of exhaust system diagrams (cover all different
>years for each specific vehicle) And also has a complete 66 page section
>devoted completely to Emission controls. That section covers Air Pollution,



Thanks for the info. I just wanted to know if the book was actually worth
searching for. Specifically, I wanted to know if it was any better than
the Haynes I bought and found to be totally worthless.

It sounds like what I'm looking for; I can probably order it through the
local Waldenbooks or some similar channel. Thanks again for the response
and the
info - it is greatly appreciated.

Mark.

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:16:42 EST
From: Phazelag aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:List Questions

I have read every list digest for about 2 and 1/2 months now and I see allot
of emails like
" its kind of like littering; it doesn't take much time for each of to be more
considerate, and if we all do it, it will make a big difference."

I dont know if this is private mail or is thier something I can do to make the
list better. I have seen discussion about the list split and yes the list is
long but I dont mind. I have also seen discussion on problems with replies
but some of us might be guilty and have no idea what your talking about
because the replies posted on the list dont say. the just mention a problem
I would be happy to make a change to help out. PHAZELAG
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:40:55 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 71 to 72 model seat differences

As I recall, the seats are stationary if the truck has a cab fuel tank. Those
with the tank under the bed had moveable seats.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:35:59 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Serpentine Belt Conversion

I'll rip that Pully and clutch off tomorrow or Wed. Depends on the work
schedule. As Far as I know Serpentines only have one idler pulley that is
either adjustable, or spring loaded to keep tension on the belt. I don't
remember which this on had as I just tore everything off I didn't need. Only
saved the AC compressor on a whim. If you could send me an E-mail privately
with your address I will Get that shipped off to ya, all I ask is you
reimburse me for the shipping, the rest is a X-mas gift.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:45:13 -0600
From: Brett McCoy
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Pinion seal


>From: Drew Beatty
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - pinion seal
>
>I have a leaky pinion seal on my Dana 60 semi-floating diff. I don't know
>what's involved in fixing this. Is it as simple as pulling the old one out
>and pounding a new one in, or is it a shim and inch-pound torque wrench
>deal??


Drew,

I had mine fixed not that long ago on my '79 full floating Dana 60. The seal
may be only half the problem. After many miles the seal/yoke grinds out some
of the material that is needed for the seal to seat properly. There is a
sleeve kit that is fairly cheap to fix it. Then just reinstall the seal and
yoke, put on a new lock nut and your all set.

- -B

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:58:34 -0700
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Plastic Bedliner WARNING

A warning about plastic bedliners.

The static buildup from the PUMPING of
gas into a plastic gas container in the bed
of a plastic bedliner can cause a spark
and ignite. Newspaper article where I get
gas prominently posted concerning this
subject.

Fill plastic gas containers on the ground.

I would shy away from even carrying a plastic
container of gas in a plastic bedliner.

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab


Get your FREE Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mailcity.lycos.com
Get your PERSONALIZED START PAGE at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.lycos.com
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 21:06:42 -0700
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bedliners, wooden

I made a wooden bedliner for my truck.
A few pieces of used political signage
(paint side in) and viola, a 4 foot tall completely
removeable container. Removeable rear wall
with so when I get home I can shovel the
compost out easily. Whole thing sits on the
open rear end in the front yard as a play
house for the kids when not in use.
I've carried a full yard of manure in there.

Did this AFTER I broke a rear wheel bearing
with a full load of turkey manure!
Can you say paint remover!?

Luckily I found a (short lived) 24 auto
repair shop and they worked on it overnight
so I could get the load out. They worked
HARD and deserved every penny, still working
on it when I got there at 7am (dropped it at 6pm).

With my 5 1/2 foot bed, I also carry a spare
piece of plywood and cover the roof, since the
shovel on the loader is longer than my bed.

As originally made, it came apart into 5 separate
pieces with only nails loosely inserted into predrilled
holes to hold it together. I eventually jsut screwed
the box together, but it worked well for a few years.
Warping made things difficult to fit together.

The rear panel has a hinge halfway up, and opens
at the bottom to allow removal after opening tailgate.

With it being 4 ft tall, I can stuff an amazing amount of brush
and tree trimmings in there, just stomp it down.

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab


Get your FREE Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mailcity.lycos.com
Get your PERSONALIZED START PAGE at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.lycos.com
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 21:11:35 -0700
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Anti-theft Devices

On another vehicle email list there was similar discussion.
(yeah, VW's, you all knew that anyway)

One of niftiest ones I found was this one.

It killed the ignition and set off an inside 90db
alarm when the brake lights came on!

Imagine driving away, hitting brakes, loud alarm
aimed at head comes on & vehicle stops running!
Alarm too loud to hear that the engine has stopped,
and vehicle now in prominent location, with alarm
going off. Time to bail.

And best of all, here's the plans to DIY:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.harry-the-planet.demon.co.uk/alarm.html

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab


Get your FREE Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mailcity.lycos.com
Get your PERSONALIZED START PAGE at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.lycos.com
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 00:17:48 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Anti-theft Devices

It killed the ignition and set off an inside 90db alarm when the brake lights
came on!

I like it I like it I like it!!!! I just might try that one.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 22:39:31 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE390 flywheel wanted

Isnt the ring gear pressed onto the flywheel? If so all you need to do
is buy a ring gear and have it put on. (Unless you can heat the gear up
untill its hot enough to drop on)

TheFORDMAN webtv.net wrote:
>
> hey all,
> i'm in need of a flywheel w/ good ring gear mine is eating up starters
> .my engine is a
> 390 501 casting manual trans unit. any help would be greatly
> appreciated. i'm not
> very rich man,
> thanks in advance
> Eric
> 75 Ford F100 4x4
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 22:50:58 -0800
From: John Lord
....


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