61-79-list-digest Tuesday, December 1 1998 Volume 02 : Number 540



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - Cooling, vibration and wheel alignment
Re: FTE 61-79 - painting yourself
FTE 61-79 - Diesel Air Cleaner/35" tires
FTE 61-79 - Motor mounts for 4X4 '79 460
FTE 61-79 - Bellhousing and Motormounts
FTE 61-79 - 360-390 help Please!
FTE 61-79 - steering box rebuild
FTE 61-79 - Front end to low
FTE 61-79 - Obsolete part needed!
FTE 61-79 - welding body panels?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Ack! Electrical Problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - welding body panels?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Larger Than stock oil pan for 79 351M
FTE 61-79 - cab mount question
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mount question
FTE 61-79 - Breaker-less points system
Re: FTE 61-79 - Breaker-less points system
FTE 61-79 - Rear Differential Questions - Help!
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mount question
Re: FTE 61-79 - F-100 Steering wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear Differential Questions - Help!
FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 semi-float 5 lug
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear Differential Questions - Help!
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360-390
FTE 61-79 - Dana-60 fulltime front axle to partime conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Ack! Electrical Problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360-390

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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:28:23 EST
From: CCSSportz aol.com
Subject: Re: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - Cooling, vibration and wheel alignment

In a message dated 11/30/98 2:56:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jpliss airolite.com writes:


it to do?
>>

It's not worth it -- go to a boneyard and get a used one. I found one for my
'79 F-150 4x4 for 50 bucks hoses and all..........Before I could call dibs, he
sold it.......
So the search becan again after calling around several places, I found one
that was 85 bucks, good deal - bought it. Too bad I founf my problem not to be
the box!!!!!! Luckily I got him to refund me the $$.......
Just look as ye shall find.

- -Shawn
79 F-150 4x4, 351M - " 'ZILLA "
Cambridge, NY
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:35:13 EST
From: CCSSportz aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - painting yourself

In a message dated 11/30/98 3:27:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, jlagrone ford-
trucks.com writes:



**I'll probably end up painting myself more than the truck actually, but I
have a few different ideas.
In the pictorial - 73 - 79 there is a F-250 named southern most 4 play - I
like that paint scheme, I also like black/hunter green, and Purple, or the
combo of purple/yellow.


I may be off base here, but I think you are going to have a real tough time
finding 16.5 rims to fit your F150. Most 16.5's that I have run across are
8 lug. Do you have 5 or 6 lug? Split rims are easy to spot. >>


I was told I could get 5 Lug 16.5's ...................

Yeah, I'm a 5 lugger...........

Yeah on the splitties too - they are TRASH with a capital T, and that rhymes
with P, and they stand for POOP!!!


- -Shawn
79 F-150 4x4, 351M - " 'ZILLA "
Cambridge, NY
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:07:54 -0800
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diesel Air Cleaner/35" tires

" Is that the filter element size? wow, that's pretty big.
What's the filter number?"

"What's the diameter of the filter housing?"

The housing is 5"x15" Not sure what filter #.He's running a
K&N 5x14 maybe.

"Can i build up the springs
? Will this cause it not to handle as well as before ? Any ideas ? Also
i am thinking of puting 35" tires on it. It has 33" tires on it now and
there seams to be lots of room under the fenders . Will this cause the
gear ratio to be to high to go PLAYING off road i was told it has 411
gears in it ".

I added 2 (1 short 1 long)leafs to the front springs of my 76 F-250
leveled it out and I don't notice any difference in ride.
I had to trim the front of my front fenders a little to fit 35s on my
Highboy so you will probably have to do some trimming on your 77.
I don't notice any difference off road with the bigger tires as far as
gearing is concerned,and I like having the cruise RPMs a little lower on
the highway(I have 4;10 gears)I'm happy with the BFGs I have on it
now.Not too big but they fill up the fenders nicely and if I make it any
higher it won't fit in my garage.
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:22:54 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor mounts for 4X4 '79 460

Dale Frenz writes>>Hello everybody. I need a set of motor mounts to install
a 460 in my '79 F-150 Supercab 4x4. It currently has a 351M. If you have
the mounts or just any advice in general, please let me know. Also, I
assume the 4x4 mounts are different than a 2 wheel drives'? Yes?

2X4 and 4X4 use different mounts. FOMOCO did not offer the 460 in 4X4
until the '80's, so L&L of Dallas, Tx. furnishes them for around
$100.00/set. I've bought 2 sets. I made my 1st couple of sets, but I'd
rather pay the price and get some decent looking ones that were made for
that purpose.

I do not have the Ph# but they advertise in nearly all truck Magazines.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:43:32 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bellhousing and Motormounts

Jim Pliss writes: >> No it will not just bolt up you will
have to get a new bell housing for the 460. I do not believe ford has these
any more and so are far and few between and so are also expensive. Motor
Mounts are I believe still made by ford so those will not be hard to get.
Botl right to the frame.

Not meaning to ruffel any feathers, BUTTTTTTTT..

I've used the 351M/400 bellhousing/clutch/starter/pressure plate on at
least 4 different 460's with no problems. The flywheel will not work, but
the rest will. (get it from a 360 or 390)
Would you also furnish me with the FOMOCO P/N for the motormounts??? My
parts Guru's all say the 460 was only offered in 2X4, and they 'ain't the
same'!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al..


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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:42:52 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360-390 help Please!

Hey Justin,

You need the book by Steve Christ called something like "Rebuilding Big Block
Ford Engines". It has all the casting numbers.....you should be able to pick
it up at any big book store or a local speed shop....cost is somewhere around
$15. Its really worth it, just for that cross-referencing chapter alone....

Hope you got what you paid for!

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:49:57 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - steering box rebuild

David Wadson writes>>Anyways, can you buy rebuild kits for steering boxes
and if so, how hard is it to do?

Never rebuilt one myself, but just a month or so ago someone on this list
said that the kits were available from the FOMOCO parts counter if it is a
Bendix unit. If it is a Ford unit it is not available, so he said.

Also said it was fairly straight forward and simple.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:43:05 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front end to low

Hi Randy,

Since you aren't supposed to put blocks under front springs, you will probably
have to build them up. The best way would be to install a new set that has a
lift built into them, say 1 or 2 inches. A local spring house should be able
to do this...might cost you around $400 though...

Why not try contacting a spring house and see what they say? Maybe there are
"add-a-leaf" kits available. I'll be doing the same on my 76 F-250 4x4 soon,
so let me know what you find out. By the way, is yours a 77 or a 77-1/2? The
77's will have the hydraulic ram in front of the axle to steer, but the 77-1/2
will have a one-piece steering box....

Also, you can stop by a plumbing shop and pick up some of that black pipe
insulation and slide it over both shifter levers. This won't cure the rattling
completely, but it sure helps! You should also be able to relatively easily
remove the transfer case shifter knob, I think there is a little teflon washer
somewhere in that assembly that might need to be replaced.....

Good Luck,

Colorado Jeff

I would skip the 35" tires.....but I'm getting kind of old I guess. I just
went down a size from 33" to 31", and like them quite a bit better. It just
steers better and is a lot less hard on all the mechanical parts.....but I
know how it is....you gotta get what you want!








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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:42:58 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Obsolete part needed!

OK Jason (busted in Montana),

Let me get this straight. Is this "bolt" actually on top of the spring tower,
facing the back of the truck? If so, these are "stock" parts at many good auto
parts stores. I've replaced them before and will bolt right in with a new nut.

I like the Sawsall approach!

Good Luck!

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:04:37 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - welding body panels?

Looking for some quick advise. Anyone here welding in a replacement rust
repair panel? I'm curious if tacking in a sheet metal strip, say 1" wide,
behind the length of the weld would help with the butt weld of the panels....

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:26:12 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Ack! Electrical Problem

Jim wrote:
>> 2. What should be connected to the STA terminal? It has a centering ring
>> similar to the ones on BAT and FLD like a rubber plug once mounted to it,
>> but I do not have one (remember that a new terminal had been replaced on
>> black/red).

Pat replied:
>The stator terminal on the alternator provides feedback to the voltage
>regulator that the alternator has 'started'. Remember, that alternators
>do not have any residual magnetism to start generating current with.
>Looking at the schematic, the "I" (Ignition) terminal provides close
>to full field voltage through the charge light (or, in our case, probably
>a low resistance connection only) when the key is turned on. The charge
>indicator is lit (if present), if burned out the 15 ohm resistor
>provides this current path.


Heeheehee. I'll throw this tidbit out for amusement... Altho that
schematic (for a '67 Galaxie) shows a 15 ohm resistor across the
idiot light bulb, most of the Ford vehicles I've worked on do not
have it!
That means that if the bulb burns out, then the alternator won't charge...!

Don't even ask how long it took to figure that one out the first time.. )-:
Trucks that have ammeters instead of idiot lights must have a resistor
somewhere to replace the light bulb. Or do ammeter equipped F-trucks
also have an idiot light?

Anyway, the moral of my story is that if the charging system doesn't
work, and you can't find out why, then check to make sure the idiot light
isn't burned out...

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to
recognize a mistake when you make it again.
-- F. P. Jones


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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:31:56 EST
From: CCSSportz aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - welding body panels?

In a message dated 11/30/98 6:16:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, BDIJXS aol.com
writes:


repair panel? I'm curious if tacking in a sheet metal strip, say 1" wide,
behind the length of the weld would help with the butt weld of the panels....
>>

I'm going to rivet and undercoat the back side -------- for my
floorboards..........
That was the advice I got - Plus I'm taking the electronic rust inhibitor of
my mom's '93 Ford Conversion Van and putting it in my pickup to stop current
rust, and prevent future rust for forming. I got lucky - I found it on the van
(no cost to take it), They sell for around 300 bucks in a few catalogs I've
seen them in.

- -Shawn
79 F-150 4x4, 351M - " 'ZILLA "
Cambridge, NY
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 19:46:41 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Larger Than stock oil pan for 79 351M

Forwarded for: "Dave Resch"

>From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Larger Than stock oil pan for 79 351M - Where do you
g*t one?
>
>Does anyone know where you can get a larger
>capacity oil pan for the 351M (79 Bronco).
>
>Or do you have to cut and wield up a home made one?

Yo Paul:

Seems like Milodon and Canton both make them, but I'm not sure if they have
the correct sump location for your Bronco application. I would suggest
calling one of the mail order speed shops (Summit, Jegs, or PAW) and asking
their tech folks about it.

Good luck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)



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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:19:49 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cab mount question

Has anyone bought a cab mount kit (like from Energy Suspension) for the 73-79
F-series? I'm curious if the rubber bushings come complete with the metal
inserts, or if you are supposed to try and use the old metal parts....

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:54:46 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mount question

BDIJXS aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought a cab mount kit (like from Energy Suspension) for the 73-79
> F-series? I'm curious if the rubber bushings come complete with the metal
> inserts, or if you are supposed to try and use the old metal parts....
>
> Colorado Jeff

They are a use the old metal parts kit. I did this on a 77. After you remove
the cab you will have to use a bolt to hammer out the metal inserts. The nut is
part of the lower half and when the two pieces are put together one is crushed
inside the other half.


- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon
ICQ# 19575234

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 19:04:15 PST
From: "b hp"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Breaker-less points system

Has anyone installed a breaker-less points system for a 65 F-100 |6
240..? If so any names that stand out...someone suggested Pertronix. I
am using my truck for 120 mile trips every weekend and the timing is
starting too need much attention for my liking. Someone told me that
this was a flaw of these engines and that they were hard to keep
timed..I didnít buy it. I had a Chevy with a 230 |6 that only needed
adjusting about twice a year. I can't see too much difference between
the two setups. So Iím a little stumped. Electronic ignition maybe the
way to go. Any thoughts?

I found some fairly useful general information in this older bookÖ"Fix
your Ford" Ford V8 - |6 1977-66 ISBN 0-87006-226-3 12345-77 by: Bill
Toboldt published 1977

Bruce
1965 F-100 |6 240 (M-100??) Mercury 2WD P/U


______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:12:43 -0600 (CST)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Breaker-less points system

Bruce,

=09I installed a Petronix electronic ignition system and coil in my
63 with a 292 V-8. I have not had any problems with it at all since I put
in nine months ago. If you have any detailed questions please do not
hesitate to contact me.

=09=09=09=09=09Jesus "Chuy" Cardoso
=09=09=09=09=0963 F100 LWB Flareside



On Mon, 30 Nov 1998, b hp wrote:

> Has anyone installed a breaker-less points system for a 65 F-100 |6 =20
> 240..? If so any names that stand out...someone suggested Pertronix. I=20
> am using my truck for 120 mile trips every weekend and the timing is=20
> starting too need much attention for my liking. Someone told me that=20
> this was a flaw of these engines and that they were hard to keep=20
> timed..I didn=92t buy it. I had a Chevy with a 230 |6 that only needed=20
> adjusting about twice a year. I can't see too much difference between=20
> the two setups. So I=92m a little stumped. Electronic ignition maybe the=
=20
> way to go. Any thoughts?
>=20
> I found some fairly useful general information in this older book=85"Fix=
=20
> your Ford" Ford V8 - |6 1977-66 ISBN 0-87006-226-3 12345-77 by: Bill=
=20
> Toboldt published 1977
>=20
> Bruce
> 1965 F-100 |6 240 (M-100??) Mercury 2WD P/U
>=20
>=20
> ______________________________________________________
> > =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.h=
tml
>=20

|-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^|
=09Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
=09Graduate Research Assistant
=09Power System Automation Lab
=09Department of Electrical Engineering =20
=09Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-3128 =20
=09 =20
=09w: 409.845.4623, fax: 409.845.6259, h: 409.775.0737
=09e-mail: cardoso tamu.edu, jesus_cardoso email.com =
=20
=09url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso =20
|-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^| =20

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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 19:18:20 -0800 (PST)
From: m frank
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear Differential Questions - Help!

I've got a '71 F100 4x4. When I bought it, the differentials didn't
match. The front has the original Dana 44 4.11 and the rear has a 3.25.

I bought a set of 3.50 rear ends out of a '76 F100. I tried to
install the rear end yesterday and found that the axle housing was
almost 5 inches longer than the existing! The leaf spring attach
points are the same way. When I pulled the axles out, they were 33
spline. I spent 8 hours just to bleed my brakes!

Can anyone tell me what I have and what will work in a '71? I am
interested in getting the four wheel drive working. I might consider
a 4.11 for the rear at this point. Will it fit in the existing
housing? Should I just part out the truck and start over? Inquiring
minds want to know.

Thanks,
Michael and the Teal Terror




==
If you can't fix it with duct tape, it's not broke.



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:01:15 EST
From: CCSSportz aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab mount question

In a message dated 11/30/98 8:33:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, BDIJXS aol.com
writes:


73-79
F-series? I'm curious if the rubber bushings come complete with the metal
inserts, or if you are supposed to try and use the old metal parts.... >>

I saw a nice looking complete set from JC Whitney today in the
catalog...........

- -Shawn
79 F-150 4x4, 351M - " 'ZILLA "
Cambridge, NY
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:11:07 -0500 (EST)
From: jdklaers mailhost.magicnet.net (PredFan)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F-100 Steering wheels

>I have a 71 Ford Ranger, But I don't have the mesurements, but I know
>Ford had two different size wheels. One for the plane jane and one for
>a packaged deals.
>

Thanks for the reply. I now have the right steering wheel. It's the one
with the single bar accross and has the rubber horn pad in it.

Unfortunately that has not solved my problem.

Thanks
John


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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:32:42 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear Differential Questions - Help!

maybe someone else can answer your rear end question, but i have a set of 3.50
gears for the front that i want to sell if you or any one else is interested
i'll take 50.00
for the ring and pinion or 100.00 with the carrier, these came out of my
truck, the gears are in ec, approximately 70,000 miles on it, i installed
4.09's and a trak lok in my truck.

jeff grant
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:42:50 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 semi-float 5 lug

Hi all

Can anyone tell me what years had this axle?

OX
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Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:45:47 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear Differential Questions - Help!

m frank wrote:
>
> I've got a '71 F100 4x4. When I bought it, the differentials didn't
> match. The front has the original Dana 44 4.11 and the rear has a 3.25.
>
> I bought a set of 3.50 rear ends out of a '76 F100. I tried to
> install the rear end yesterday and found that the axle housing was
> almost 5 inches longer than the existing! The leaf spring attach
> points are the same way.

Sure it was a 76?, late 77, 78 changed leaf spring location and springs
became wider (3" vs 2.5")

When I pulled the axles out, they were 33
> spline.

Is rear a full floater?


OX
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Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 00:03:52 -0500
From: Lord_Xaenon
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360-390

At 02:34 PM 11/30/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I was told that the only way to tell the difference between a 390 and a 360
is the length of the push rods and the crank. If I get the casting # off
the push rods this should tell me if I have a 390 or 360. Is this right?
Even if the casting # off of the crank shows to be for a 360 (which it does)
it could have been destroked to work in a 390. Is this correct? Which
means that the push rods are the only thing left to tell the difference.
Correct?

Sorry to say this, big guy, but....

If it is a casting number for a 360, it is a 360....there was no "Destroking"
involved, as the 360 and 390 use identical cylinder blocks. In fact, the 360
was a destroked 390 in the first place, for all practical purposes. The 360
has
a 3.5 inch stroke, the 390 has a 3.78 inch stroke, and the 360 used longer rods
to make up the difference. You could NOT use a 360 crankshaft to make a
390, nor
could you use a 390 crankshaft to make a 360 (well, I suppose it's remotely
possible, but why would you want to?).

Bottom line, if the crank has a casting number for a 360, and the guy you
bought
it from told you it was a 390, then I'd say you got screwed. I don't mean
to sound
like an a**hole, but I don't honestly know of an easier way to say it.

If you want to double-check, measure the length down the bore with the
piston at
BDC, then rotate the engine and measure again with the piston at TDC. The
difference
between those two measurements will give you your answer. Be as accurate as
you can
be; the difference between a 360 and a 390 is only about a quarter inch.

3.5 inches=360, 3.78 inches=390.

I really hope you find out that you got a 390. I'd love to be proven wrong
here.






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Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 00:14:13 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana-60 fulltime front axle to partime conversion

Hey OX! Not to change the subject and all-- BUT!!!

Mr. Colorado Jeff told me to talk to you (and might as well drop the
newsgroup this question also) --

My 78 F-250 4x4 that I'm putting the 460, spicer-24, and NP-435 in *WAS*
originally a full-time transfer case setup. The front axle is an open
knuckle, Dana-60 with the full-time 4x4 hubs and dual piston disk brakes.
For the setup I'm going to be running I DEFINITLY want to convert the front
end to have lockouts. I prefer the look of the large (external drive)
lockout setup, but if easier, would go the small lockout (internal) design
like on the 1/2 tons. What are my options for converting this axle? Can
I buy a conversion kit? Do I need a donor axle? Will Dana-44 HD axle
parts work? Anybody got what I need sitting in their shed/barn/garage?
Any help guys is always appreciated-- Thanks!

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 02:59:58 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Ack! Electrical Problem

Jim wrote:
> > Well, I have run into an electrical problem with mine and could
> > use some assistance:
> >
> > Model - '69 F-100, 360, AT, 'orange' alternator?, solid-state
> > replacement regulator (less than 6 mos old), wiring stock
> > (some repair splices) except
> >
> > Background - Sat. PM the truck acted as if battery was low
> > and would not

Too which I replied:

[A whole lot of 'stuff' about alternators and regulators]

Well, before I actually start to cram my foot in my mouth, I
thought I might reply again. It's hard to hold your foot in
your mouth and type at the same time . . .

What I typed is very true - for a '67 Galaxie with an idiot
light. But, we all know that for the vintage trucks Jim and
I have (69 and 70), there is no idiot light. So, with that
in mind, I went out with a flashlight and checked mine out.
My truck is a 70 F250, 360, T-18 4 speed. I replaced the
alternator, according to my records, exactly one year ago due
to a very noisy bearing. Although my wiring is basically stock,
I did splice a dual battery isolator into the main charge line
(Alternator to Battery) 11 years ago when I first bought the
truck. The regulator appears to be solid state, I haven't
changed it in the time I have owned this truck.

The following wires are connected to the regulator:
"I" : No connection (Idiot light circuit)
"A" : Yellow
"S" : Green / Red stripe
"F" : Orange
GROUNDED (regulator frame), a Black/orange-stripe wire.

I suspect that the regulator "S" wire (Green/Red) runs off to
the ignition switch, but without a real schematic I'll say
that is an educated guess on my part. This would provide a
path to both turn the regulator on by activating the field
relay with the ignition switch, and circuit isolation when
the key is off.

At the alternator, the following appear (the back of the alt
is against the head, I was looking thru a mirror) to be hooked
up:

GRD: No connection
Ground: Black-Orange stripe. This is an unlabled connection.
BAT: Big fat black wire. SPlices into Black/Yellow (infamous
ammeter shunt?), and Yellow (To "A" regulator terminal?).
FLD: Orange wire (To regulator "F" terminal?)
STA: Nothing! Nada! No connection! Doesn't go anywhere!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Note that there are two ground connections, only one labled.
The unlabled at first look appeared to be isolated, upon
closer inspection I realized that it had a plastic wire loom
holder bolted to it, with the black/orange wire on top of that.

Now, I have a foot to go chew on . . .

- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 23:54:58 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360-390

Justin wrote:
> I was told that the only way to tell the difference between a 390
> and a 360 is the length of the push rods and the crank.
> If I get the casting # off the push rods this should tell me if
> I have a 390 or 360. Is this right?

The push rods come in different lengths, will fit any FE engine,
and don't have casting numbers. I assume you mean connecting rods,....


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