FTE 61-79 - Steering column to long

61-79-list-digest Tuesday, November 24 1998 Volume 02 : Number 532

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Steering column to long
FTE 61-79 - glove box, 65 F100
FTE 61-79 - rattling windows
FTE 61-79 - fire wall holes
FTE 61-79 - C6 Long tailshaft
FTE 61-79 - Co worker
FTE 61-79 - spark plugs
Re: FTE 61-79 - rattling windows
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 w/ 302 - Cooling Trouble
FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 - Vibration while coasting.
FTE 61-79 - rag joint
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re Timing chain altenative
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: F 250 plus
FTE 61-79 - 4 wheel discs
FTE 61-79 - 70-72 F-350 for sale
FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Knob
FTE 61-79 - radiator/overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - dash lights
FTE 61-79 - Short tailshaft C6
FTE 61-79 - Cargo light for '69
FTE 61-79 - Too COOOOOL
FTE 61-79 - overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - glove box, 65 F100
FTE 61-79 - PCV
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Knob
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 - Vibration while coasting.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cargo light for '69
Re: FTE 61-79 - PCV
Re: FTE 61-79 - PCV
RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - fire wall holes
RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - rattling windows
RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - Steering column to long
RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - 300 cooling
RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!
FTE 61-79 - 460 Misc. Parts Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum switch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re Timing chain altenative
FTE 61-79 - Used Auto Parts On-line
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rebuild on 400M
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351 2-V to 4-V?
Re: FTE 61-79 - rattling windows
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 - Vibration while coasting.
Re: FTE 61-79 - overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - rattling windows
Re: FTE 61-79 - glove box, 65 F100
FTE 61-79 - Water Leak, 292 V8
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 - Vibration while coasting.

=======================================================================

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 04:42:48 -0600
From: "myshop"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering column to long

My 65 F100 has a steering column from some other vehicle and it sticks out
way to far, it's really close to my body. It's an automatic but the person
before me put the shifter on the floor. It's really a hard thing to go from
park to drive. The clicks are so close to each other that many times I'll
miss 'D' and go into '2' and not know it. Also, if one of my children are in
the truck it's an easy thing to just lightly touch the floor shifter and
It'll shift into 'R' or 'N'...dangerous thing!

What I would like to do is to get a steering column from another F100 that
was an automatic and hook up the linkages so that my automatic shifter is on
the column and not on the floor. Is this a hard thing to do? I found a
couple of yards that have some F100's and one of the trucks has the column
but I think it was a manual shifter, I'm not sure.

Any help here would greatly be appreciated...

+
+AL+

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 04:48:50 -0600
From: "myshop"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - glove box, 65 F100

My 1965 F100 glove box (and probably many other years and models) is
basically made out of paper board. I found another one at the local yard but
I thought I could make one out of sheet metal or something. It's seems very
fragile and cheap.

Does any one know of stronger replacement glove boxes or has any one else
made one of these themselves?

Any response would be greatly appreciated...

+
+AL+

PS: Did every one live in the snow and wear 'gloves' when the glove box was
invented?

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 04:51:33 -0600
From: "myshop"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rattling windows

My 65 F100 windows rattle a lot. The rubber is worn out in them and the
doors. Some one told me that it's a pretty hard job to replace that
stuff...is that true?

+
+AL+

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 04:55:56 -0600
From: "myshop"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - fire wall holes

My 65 F100 has a few holes that were cut into the fire wall. These holes
were apparently for a different type heater and there are a few other small
bolt holes that I would like to patch up also.

What is an easy way to patch up the holes so that cold air and loud engine
noise don't get into the cab.

+
+AL+

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:39:04 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C6 Long tailshaft

Shawn Donkin; I'm on digest mode and did not get your message until this
morning, so I missed the weekend for you. Sorry. If your truck was
originally equipped with a small bblock V8 of the 6 cyl I think your towers
ore in the rearward location. If you are installing a bigblock I think you
have to move these towers to the forward holes. This is as I understand
it. I have never gone through this, so I can't be sure. I hope you get it
resolved, and have a smoothe ride.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:46:33 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Co worker

Matt Cozad.. Where you located??? Contact me direct, if you can during
the day only. I work from 06:30 - 03:15 CST. Don't have access in the
evenings.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 07:59:02 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - spark plugs

Does anyone have any experience with the Bosch Platinum 4+ spark plugs?
There is a full page ad on page 151 of the december7 issue of Fortune
magazine. The picture looks like a new twist on the old surface gap plugs
from 25 years ago. Is this really an innovation or just more hype on an old
scam?

- -John

jlagrone

air.on.ca)

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:08:40 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 - Vibration while coasting.

Hmmm, first the cooling system and now a nasty vibration...my nerves are
just about shot from breaking in this new truck...

Anyhow, I took my first ride out to the inlaw's house and had my truck
going almost to the posted limit on the highway - 90kph/50mph. The truck
seemed to run all right though I think my vacuum advance might not be from
a truck but a car with a similar weight. The major problem is that when I
have the truck above 60kph/35-40mph, when I take my foot off the throttle
and let the truck coast, I get some wicked vibration. I am suspecting wheel
alignment as I swapped the entire front end to replace a seized kingpin and
I also changed both rear leaf springs.So it is pretty likely that things
are a little out of whack. I'm getting an alignment done even if that isn't
the source of vibration - no sense getting all new tires put on - I'll be
rotating every week to get them to wear evenly!

Does this vibration seem like suspension related or should I be looking at
my tranny, driveshaft or gears?

David Wadson (wadsond

air.on.ca)

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:07:52 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rag joint

To all of those who replied:

Thanks for the feedback. What I was identifying in my mind is what you
described as the rag joint. I guess they are cheaper to build and install
than a u-joint. Lots of vehicles have them besides Fords.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:20:08 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re Timing chain altenative

I had a buddy that put a Pete Jackson gear drive in his 302 in his truck.
It works just fine like it says, but its the noiseiest thing I have ever
heard, there is this constant whine from the front of the engine, Its
pretty loud. There is no need for anybody to have a gear drive except for
racing, where you basically put an engine though hell.

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 09:38 PM 11/20/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>In timing sets, I really believe the double roller types are worth the
>extra cost because they will "stretch" less than a conventional plate-type
>chain. When the chain elongates, the cam timing becomes more retarded,
>which weakens your low rpm power.
>
>
>Hi everybody.
>
>Anyone tried one of those "Gear Drives" like the ones from "Summit"? I
>think I going to try one when I put the 79 Bronco back together.
>
>Opinions?
>
>Later,
>
>"Paul"
>
>
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>

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:23:59 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: F 250 plus

Let it me put i this way. It would take a heck of alot more to break a
Dana 60 than most people think. It may be a 3/4 ton axle, but they can
take alot..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 01:37 AM 11/20/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>On Thu, 19 Nov 1998, Dennis Pearson wrote:
>>
>> When I was crawling under my recently acquired '66 F250, checking wires and
>> realizing I didn't have the second gas tank--just the cap and gooseneck
>> into space, I suddenly noticed the suspension. It looks like my wife's
>> grandfather (May he RIP) installed double rear leaf springs. I could
>> tell it was a fairly recent modification, since the U-bolts were pretty
>> clean and new looking.
>>
>> What kind of tonnage rating is an F-250 with double leaf springs have? Is
>> it comparable to an F350 (1 ton)? It is not a burning question. I'm just
>> always curious about whatever I have...
>
>I have a '66 F-250 with some extra leaves too. We have thrown about 2
>ton on it, no problems. This one has a dump bed inside the regular one
>and a second channel iron frame under the dump bed so the frame is
>pretty well beefed. I'd worry most about the axle, it's only a Dana 60,
>which is genearally rated as a 3/4 ton axle. The 70 would make me feel
>more comfortable.
>
>It sure rides way nicer after you get about 1500 pounds on it, though.
>
>Birken
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>

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:24:05 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4 wheel discs

Yo Paul,

You are right, of course. I try to resist the biggest, best, newest,
brightest urges also, but, hey, I'm only human and weak in the flesh. A son
in college helps squash those urges, too.

- -John

jlagrone

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 70-72 F-350 for sale

On my way to work, I drove past what looked like a 70-72 F-350 with a nice
flat/dump bed (the bed was raised) for sale....looked like the cab/clip was is
good condition. If anyone is interested, I'll stop and get the details....this
is in Boulder, Colorado.

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:48:15 EST
From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Knob

Still haven't found a shifting knob for an NP 205.....

I'm hoping somebody here has a spare one laying around!!!!!

Thanks,

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:41:40 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - radiator/overheating

David,

You definitely have a coolant flow problem. IMHO, you can't have too large
of a radiator. You can always cover up part of the air flow area like
truckers do if you really think you have too much air flow. It sounds to me
like you have a piece of gasket material or RTV floating around in your
water jacket. Is it possible that the lower hose is kinked? I am not sure
about Fords, but on Ch

s it is possible to put the head gaskets on wrong
stopping up your water galleries in the heads. The guages all register OK,
but the heads will get HOT fast causing damage.

You also said that you had a new water pump. Some 302 applications with
serpentine belt setups have water pumps that turn counter clockwise. Did a
counter man somewhere sell you the wrong water pump? To the uninformed a
302 is a 302. Not.

Thermostats do stick closed sometimes. They are also bad off of the shelf
sometime. Did you test it in ye olde pan of boiling water before
installation? Don't be insulted here, but I don't know how much experience
you have, you didn't put it in upside down? I have seen this error, too.

Good luck!!

- -John

jlagrone

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Short tailshaft C6

Birken writes: >>I have a 2wd C6 I am building to go behind a 429 in my
'61 F-100 4wd. I was wondering if it would be possible to find a shorter
tailshaft while I have got the thing apart. It is too long now to fit in
front of the divorce mount transfer case w/o either putting a bit of a rake
on the motor or moving the bellhousing to motor location a bit forward to
keep that little driveshaft's angles correct. Either are viable options
but I'd like to make it more "normal" so I can hang lots of doodads on the
front of the motor and use a modern style t-case later. Any ideas?

The '77's and previous years F250's & F350"s 4X4's all had divorced
transfer cases. You can get the tailshaft housing and tailshaft from one
of these, If you can find one. I've torn several of the '75's thru '77's
down and I know that these had what you are looking for. They aren't
plentiful in these parts of the country in the salvage yards, but I see one
occasionally.

Good hunting

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:35:41 -0600
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cargo light for '69

Can anyone tell me;
1. Where was the cargo switch located on a '69?
2. On 67-72 trucks with a spare tire holder mounted inside the bed (holds
tire vertical - styleside), does anyone have one installed that they can
measure to location of for me, and tell me if it is a bolt-in bracket, etc.
etc.?
3. On '69 genre, when they came (such as camper special) with auxillary fuel
tank, where was it located, and was it's filler neck in a flush-mount door
arrangement like later trucks?

Jim E.

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:41:23 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Too COOOOOL

David Wadson writes: >>Even after driving around for an hour, the lower
rad hose stays cool, interior heater has moderate to lukewarm heat (not the
toasty hot I expected from the new heater core), and the temperature gauge
stays between 180 and 200.

I'm inclined to dispel the idea of the bad thermostat - it's pretty much
brand new and seems unlikely to have gone within 3 hours and now be
functioning again. A friend figures my rad is too big for the truck or my
water pump isn't working but it's brand new and an unlikely candidate. I'm
thinking the rad size might be a good possibility.

Anyone have any ideas or possible solutions and if the rad is too big, what
can I do short of getting a different rad,

You don't need a smaller radiator. You can have a radiator the size of
Lake Erie, and you should still be able to get HOT air from the heater and
your engines temperature should stabilize at the temperature determined by
the t'stat. Go get a new t'stat. Even new things go bad.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:40:29 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - overheating

David,

After reading the rest of your posts and other list members' suggestions,
first I apologize for suggesting that the thermostat was in backwards.
Second, if the new thermostat doesn't cure the problem, I think that you
have coolant flow problems in the head area. It sounds like the water pump
is circulating coolant but not picking up heat. Steam pressure is building
somewhere (the clunk). Since most heat comes from the heads due to
combustion, I would look for bad or improperly installed head gaskets. I
know it's a bummer.

- -John

jlagrone

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - glove box, 65 F100

I've never made one, but here is a trick passed on to me by the pioneer of
jumping trucks, my dad. Seems his Glovebox was ripped apart by something on
there that was pretty heavy. He took it out, and after a brief visit to the
paint and body shop for some supplies, he wrapped that thing in fiberglass.
Being a bodyman has its advantages, but its really not that hard. I did mine
after I went out with a box of shotgun shells in there. Tore that sucker
loose real quick. That thing is so strong now I don't think I'll ever have a
problem with it.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:00:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE 61-79 - PCV

Simple question: would a faulty PCV or PCV hose cause my 460 to burn oil?

-Justin Farcas

79 FORD F150 4x4 - 460 bbl -

- --

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:38:43 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Knob

Jeff, we must be on the same wavelength or something- I have an extra knob
for ya! Send me private e-mail where to ship it- This *is* used condition
(but still nice) mind you!

Tony
tony

pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 09:48 AM 11/23/98 EST, you wrote:
>Still haven't found a shifting knob for an NP 205.....
>
>I'm hoping somebody here has a spare one laying around!!!!!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Colorado Jeff
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>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:43:38 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 - Vibration while coasting.

Dave-

Just a quick 2 cents-

I know I get a wicked vibration while coasting at those speeds in my truck
when I have a rear universal go bad in the driveshaft. (my driveshaft is
almost a 15deg. angle, replacing U-joints is a regular 6month thing! 8-))

Tony
tony

pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 09:08 AM 11/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hmmm, first the cooling system and now a nasty vibration...my nerves are
>just about shot from breaking in this new truck...
>
>Anyhow, I took my first ride out to the inlaw's house and had my truck
>going almost to the posted limit on the highway - 90kph/50mph. The truck
>seemed to run all right though I think my vacuum advance might not be from
>a truck but a car with a similar weight. The major problem is that when I
>have the truck above 60kph/35-40mph, when I take my foot off the throttle
>and let the truck coast, I get some wicked vibration. I am suspecting wheel
>alignment as I swapped the entire front end to replace a seized kingpin and
>I also changed both rear leaf springs.So it is pretty likely that things
>are a little out of whack. I'm getting an alignment done even if that isn't
>the source of vibration - no sense getting all new tires put on - I'll be
>rotating every week to get them to wear evenly!
>
>Does this vibration seem like suspension related or should I be looking at
>my tranny, driveshaft or gears?
>
>
>David Wadson (wadsond

air.on.ca)
>
>
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>
>
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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:46:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cargo light for '69

Jim asked:
> 1. Where was the cargo switch located on a '69?

On my '68 F-100, the lamp switch was mounted on the dash, to the left
of the lighter socket. It was an illuminated switch, with a chrome,
lettered ('CARGO') bezel. When turned on, the entire end of the knob
lit up bright red, so you wouldn't leave it on accidentally.

IIRC, there is another version which mounts in the upper left corner
of the cab, behind the driver?

While my '68 had a nice in-dash cargo lamp switch, the emergency flasher
switch was mounted below the dash, on a cheesy cardboard looking panel.
(Whoops! we need one of these in here quick!).

A few weeks back, I was at pick-n-pull looking for a bracket for
another project. I spotted a couple new trucks (New?:-), so I walked
over to check them out. One 70-ish F-250 had a cargo lamp, which I
have been looking for. The in-dash switch was dangling under the dash,
I found the chrome bezel laying in the gravel. I pulled the switch,
the wiring harness, and the lamp assembly. When I got to the check
out, the guy couldn't find "Cargo Lamp" on the computer, so he
charged me for a dome light. $1.99, plus tax. Very Cool:-)

> 2. On 67-72 trucks with a spare tire holder mounted inside the bed (holds
> tire vertical - styleside), does anyone have one installed that they can
> measure to location of for me, and tell me if it is a bolt-in bracket, etc.
> etc.?
> 3. On '69 genre, when they came (such as camper special) with auxillary fuel
> tank, where was it located, and was it's filler neck in a flush-mount door
> arrangement like later trucks?
>
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:58:25 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PCV

Simple answer: Yes

- ----------
> From: Justin Farcas
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - PCV
> Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 9:00 AM
>
> Simple question: would a faulty PCV or PCV hose cause my 460 to burn oil?
>
> -Justin Farcas
>

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:47:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PCV

Thanks bud....
>
> Simple answer: Yes
>
> ----------
> > From: Justin Farcas
> > To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: FTE 61-79 - PCV
> > Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 9:00 AM
> >
> > Simple question: would a faulty PCV or PCV hose cause my 460 to burn oil?
> >
> > -Justin Farcas
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

- --

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:47:50 -0800
From: Jim Pliss
Subject: RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - fire wall holes

I use some of the foaming caned insulation you can buy in the hardware
store brand name is called STUFF but there are some no name brands work
well also takes only a few minutes to get hard but ban be removed with a
screwdriver and it is also sound deadening.

- -----Original Message-----
From: myshop [SMTP:myshop

ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, November 23, 1998 2:56 AM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - fire wall holes

My 65 F100 has a few holes that were cut into the fire wall. These holes
were apparently for a different type heater and there are a few other small
bolt holes that I would like to patch up also.

What is an easy way to patch up the holes so that cold air and loud engine
noise don't get into the cab.

+
+AL+

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:49:20 -0800
From: Jim Pliss
Subject: RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - rattling windows

Definetly some work but it pays off pretty good. JC Whitney is a good source for these at least the last time I looked.

- -----Original Message-----
From: myshop [SMTP:myshop

ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, November 23, 1998 2:52 AM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - rattling windows

My 65 F100 windows rattle a lot. The rubber is worn out in them and the
doors. Some one told me that it's a pretty hard job to replace that
stuff...is that true?

+
+AL+

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:53:17 -0800
From: Jim Pliss
Subject: RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - Steering column to long

I believe that the 65 auto is a rare occurance. Has somebody changed Engine
and or tranny? A floor shifter is easier to install and usually easier to
setup. A good floor shifter will have a reverse lock out so reverse would
not be a problem. B&M makes floor shifters just for trucks with autos. I
would look into one of these.

- -----Original Message-----
From: myshop [SMTP:myshop

ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, November 23, 1998 2:43 AM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - Steering column to long

My 65 F100 has a steering column from some other vehicle and it sticks out
way to far, it's really close to my body. It's an automatic but the person
before me put the shifter on the floor. It's really a hard thing to go from
park to drive. The clicks are so close to each other that many times I'll
miss 'D' and go into '2' and not know it. Also, if one of my children are
in
the truck it's an easy thing to just lightly touch the floor shifter and
It'll shift into 'R' or 'N'...dangerous thing!

What I would like to do is to get a steering column from another F100 that
was an automatic and hook up the linkages so that my automatic shifter is
on
the column and not on the floor. Is this a hard thing to do? I found a
couple of yards that have some F100's and one of the trucks has the column
but I think it was a manual shifter, I'm not sure.

Any help here would greatly be appreciated...

+
+AL+

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:22:01 -0800
From: Jim Pliss
Subject: RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - 300 cooling

We use a piece of card borad over part of the radiator. Works good and is real cheap. I always like free fixes with out a lot of work

- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Jones [SMTP:twistedhand

hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 1998 7:28 PM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - 300 cooling

> I have a truck with Ford 300 6 cylinder, that has headers and an
> aluminum intake manifold. This truck never quite warms up and is
always
> on the low end of the temperature gauge.>
> Living in Minnesota and driving to Canada often, I would like to get
the
> engine producing more heat. I had thought of removing the fan for the
> winter, perhaps replacing it with an electronic fan on a thermostat.>

I put a winter front on my '85 f-150 300-6. It restricts the air flow to
the rad enough to help keep things warm. It also helps to keep salt and
crud off the rad. You could also put a warmer thermostat in during the
winter months..I did that when i had an '86 f150/302

Don Jones Northern Ont Canada

1970 f-250 4x4
1985 f-150 sc

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:34:43 -0800
From: Jim Pliss
Subject: RE: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!

I am interested in this motor please email me at jpliss

airolite.com
I am in marietta OH and might be interested

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kenny Realph [SMTP:krealph

hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 1998 2:31 PM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: (Archive Copy) FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!

Hey everybody,
I have a friend with a 351C in his back yard it was in good condition about
3or 4 years ago but now frozen. I don't know if it has all accessories but
he was going to take it to scrap yard. told him to wait and I would see if
any one was interested on the mailing list. I know they are becoming rare to
find and I wouldn't like to know that another was lost forever without
trying to find a home for it. I live in Columbus OH.

Kenny Realph
krealph

hotmail.com

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:57:24 -0500
From: frenz.6

osu.edu (Dale Frenz)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 Misc. Parts Needed

Anybody out there have a tired-old 460 in need of a rebuild that I can
pirate parts from? OR do you just happen to have some 460 parts that were
suppose to go in your Rustang that never made it because you bought a
shiney new Mustang? ANYWAY, I need 460 parts.....everything....head bolts,
automatic flywheel, oil pan (truck style), aluminum intake, your 17 year
old sister....wait....no, some 429CJ heads would be nice.....anyway you get
the point. Let me know what you have.

Thanks,
Dale Frenz
frenz.6

osu.edu

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:41:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum switch

Jim wrote:
> Pat Brown expounded:
>
> >You guys have this all wrong, It's a California smog thing. They
> >found that smog increases on friday and saturday nights, when all
> >thoses trucks were out cruising main st. So, the vacuum advance
> >got plumbed through the light switch, disconnecting it when the
> >lights were on. NOX was reduced, the EPA was happy, and it took
> >over twenty years for us to figure it out.
>
> Pat,
> I gather you must have time on your hands in the evenings while waiting for
> someone go give you servicable D****n parts. Either that or the excess
> roughage of the granola-laden CA diet combined with the solids of smog have
> altered the the dielectric content of synaptic fluid to cause misfiring ant
> the nerve junctions.
>

Well, OK. So I forgot the smiley. But, have you ever worked on a mid-
70's California car? They had more vacuum-operated alphabet-soup labeled
thingies on them than anybody knew what to do with. They had more miles
of vacuum tubing than the factory could even hope to properly document-
Anybody ever tried to re-tube one that someone had messed with? I rest
my case :-)

Besides, I like granola. There's nuttin wrong with my synapses synapses
synapses synapses synapses synapses synapses synnnnphzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzt

- --
Pat Brown
The heart of granola country - Sebastopol, California

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:42:32 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re Timing chain altenative

>From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re Timing chain altenative
>
>Anyone tried one of those "Gear Drives" like the ones
>from "Summit"? I think I going to try one when I put the
>79 Bronco back together.

Yo Paul:

Gear drives are intended for racing applications to maintain timing
stability and accuracy at very high rpm operation. Gear drive systems
consume more engine power than chains. Unlike a chain, though, the gear
drive system will not elongate or "stretch" as it wears.

I have not heard about the long-term reliability of gear drive systems. If
it needed to be replaced every 50-75K miles, I'd say you're better off w/ a
good double roller chain that will last at least that long, rob less power
from the engine, and cost about 1/4 as much as the gear drive.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:06:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Used Auto Parts On-line

I recently found a web site www.autop.com, which allows you to input a
part description and forwards your request to dozens of salvage yards
across the country. They respond by e-mail. That sure beats trecking
from yard to yard looking for hard to find parts.

I just entered two requests, I'm anxious to see if I get any response.

Has anyone tried this or another service like this?

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:13:14 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rebuild on 400M

>From: "Eric Guin"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rebuild on 400M
>
>I just bought a complete 400M from a friend
>snip
>Where can i get brand name flat top pistons from?

Yo Eric:

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but nobody makes a flat top piston for
the 400 (AFAIK). As an alternative, you can adapt Cleveland-type (351C)
pistons to the 400. The Cleveland pistons and 400 pistons have a
compatible compression height, but different wrist pin sizes. You have to
bush the rods to fit the smaller wrist pins for the Cleveland pistons and
groove the Cleveland pistons to accept wrist pin locks. Fortunately, there
are dozens of aftermarket piston designs for Cleveland engines, so you can
get almost any compression ratio you want.

>What kind of manifold/carb/cam selection works
>best with 400M's, keeping in mind i use this truck
>for off roading and highway purposes.

It depends.... What kind of off road activities do you want to do? (Mud
running is a lot different application than rock crawling.) What axle gear
ratio do you use? What kind of transmission do you have? What kind of rpm
range do you want the engine to work in? What kind of highway purposes do
you have in mind? (Towing 7500# of horses over 11K ft mountain passes is a
lot different application than commuting unladen 50 miles one-way on rural
freeways.)

Edelbrock and Weiand make aluminum intake manifolds for M-block engines.
Both are reputed to flow better than stock, and both accommodate either 2V
or 4V carburetors. Edelbrock offers an EGR version of their manifold, so
if you need emissions legality, they're the only game in town. Edelbrock
also offers a decent variety of adapters and spacers for both EGR and
non-EGR applications.

If you go with one of the aftermarket aluminum manifolds, you can use
almost any square-bore 4V carburetor. I'm partial to Carters and
Edelbrocks, but some people like Holleys.

Proper cam selection is one of the most important things you can do when
you build an engine. The M-block benefits from a good cam more than a lot
of other engines because that was always a weak point in its factory
specification. To select the proper cam, though, you need to know how you
want to use the engine and where you want it to make its power. Like I
said, it depends....

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:20:48 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351 2-V to 4-V?

>From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351 2-V to 4-V?
>
>the pre 72 351 c 2v heads should flow a little better
>and give a little more compression.

Yo Jeff:

What are the exact differences in pre-72 351C 2V heads and later 351C 2V
heads? How can you identify the pre-72 351C 2V heads?

The only advantage I know of in early 351C 2V heads is the quality of the
castings is a little better than some later M-block heads. With better
castings, the 351C heads lend themselves to some moderate port work w/ less
risk of grinding into the water passages.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:37:36 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rattling windows

>The "anti-rattlers" on my 66 are held in by little metal clips. These are
>the felt/trim pieces along the bottom of the window. Taking them out was
>easy enough, and I think putting them in is just pushing until till they
>click. I think you can get a pair of new anti rattlers for about $30 from
>LMC truck. The channel that goes along the rear and top or the channel
>that goes down the back of the vent window may be a different story, I
>tried to remove part of one from a bone yard and finally lost patience...

The front edge of the rubber that goes down the back edge of the vent
window is moulded to lock into the metal track. The hardest part of
removing it at the scrap yard is finding when that still has soft rubber -
they usually go hard and brittle and when you try to pull them out they
crack. When you find a good one, putting it in is a matter of rolling the
window down and sliding it in. They are kind of snug along the window but I
found it easier if you roll the window part way up and push down on the new
rubber as you roll the window down. The window helps pull it down into the
door. Also, you'll probably have to take off the doorskin to make sure
there are no old chunks still in the channel.

David Wadson - wadsond

air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100 w/ 302 & C4

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:01:13 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 - Vibration while coasting.

>I know I get a wicked vibration while coasting at those speeds in my truck
>when I have a rear universal go bad in the driveshaft. (my driveshaft is
>almost a 15deg. angle, replacing U-joints is a regular 6month thing! 8-))

Geez, I've barely had the engine running for 6 months let only been driving
the truck that long! I was talking to a mechanic at the shop where I'm
getting the alignment done and he figures it sound more like drivetrain
than suspension. Guess I'll be checking the U-joints and hoping it's them
not something more serious...

David Wadson - wadsond

air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100 w/ 302 & C4

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:59:06 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - overheating

>After reading the rest of your posts and other list members' suggestions,
>first I apologize for suggesting that the thermostat was in backwards.
>Second, if the new thermostat doesn't cure the problem, I think that you
>have coolant flow problems in the head area. It sounds like the water pump
>is circulating coolant but not picking up heat. Steam pressure is building
>somewhere (the clunk). Since most heat comes from the heads due to
>combustion, I would look for bad or improperly installed head gaskets. I
>know it's a bummer.

Don't sweat it..my buddy who is fairly experienced with driving an old Ford
truck somehow managed to install his front brake pads in backwards. Yep,
metal backing to the rotor! Made one heck of an awful scraping noise when
he took it for that first test drive. It was amazing how deep it scored
that rotor. :-)

Back to my cooling system, I'm 99.99% sure that I installed it the right
way. I might kick myself shortly for not testing it in the pan of water
beforehand. What this about putting it in upside down? I know there is a
front and a back but I didn't realize there was a top and bottom way of
installing it. To be on the safe side I went to ye old Ford dealership and
got a 192 degree Motorcraft thermostat and checked it in the pan of water.
It works great and I notice there is a little metal ball bearing thinger on
it. I don't recall the non-Ford one I put into the engine having one - do
you know what it's for?

Lower rad hose isn't kinked - plus it's a two hose splice job to fit
properly. Why is "stock" never "stock"? The water pump is a regular V-belt
one - no fancy serpentine belts or anything. I'll give the pump the quick
engine crank test when I remove the thermostat housing. According to on of
my manuals if I spew coolant all over the driveway my pump works. :-)

Me no like that coolant restriction in the heads possibility! I was darn
careful when I got to that part - I had the heads professionally rebuilt
(as a first-time engine rebuilder I wasn't ready for doing those...) so I
made sure to install them properly.

Right now I'm having no overheating problems, so I'm pretty sure the
trouble we had at the garage on Saturday was remnants of ice in the rad.
Perhaps I have a good vaporlock through my heater core now and that's why I
have no interior heat. The top of the rad gets plenty hot but by the time
it gets to the lower hose, it's cool or warm at best. As for the rad now,
I'll be throwing a piece of carboard in front of it if I still run really
cool after changing the thermostat. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, if you
don't have the fan shroud, the engine will run a little warmer. Or is it
cooler...

David Wadson - wadsond

air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100 w/ 302 & C4

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:03:32 -0600
From: Floyd Terrell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rattling windows

Bryan Kirking wrote:

> At 04:51 AM 11/23/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >My 65 F100 windows rattle a lot. The rubber is worn out in them and the
> >doors. Some one told me that it's a pretty hard job to replace that
> >stuff...is that true?
>
> The "anti-rattlers" on my 66 are held in by little metal clips. These are
> the felt/trim pieces along the bottom of the window. Taking them out was
> easy enough, and I think putting them in is just pushing until till they
> click. I think you can get a pair of new anti rattlers for about $30 from
> LMC truck. The channel that goes along the rear and top or the channel
> that goes down the back of the vent window may be a different story, I
> tried to remove part of one from a bone yard and finally lost patience...
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Same problem with my '65. The upright behind the vent window is part of the
vent window assembly. The balance of the felt/metal anti-rattle is avalable
from J.C. Whitney.

Floyd

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:24:48 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - glove box, 65 F100

I made an exact replica out of alluminum, 1/16 thick, it was easy to bend,
using common tools. Tne i just drilled holes as needed and and popped in
pop rivets, works great..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 11:12 AM 11/23/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I've never made one, but here is a trick passed on to me by the pioneer of
>jumping trucks, my dad. Seems his Glovebox was ripped apart by something on
>there that was pretty heavy. He took it out, and after a brief visit to the
>paint and body shop for some supplies, he wrapped that thing in fiberglass.
>Being a bodyman has its advantages, but its really not that hard. I did mine
>after I went out with a box of shotgun shells in there. Tore that sucker
>loose real quick. That thing is so strong now I don't think I'll ever have a
>problem with it.
>
>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350 "Tweety"
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