61-79-list-digest Monday, November 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 531



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Re inside runners which hold the glass inside the 79 Bronco tailgate.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Emission Equip
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!
FTE 61-79 - 400 Ford Rebuild
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 running really rough
FTE 61-79 - Tilting columns
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1999 F-100 Supernationals, Pigeon Forge
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 w/ 302 - Cooling Trouble
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 w/ 302 - Cooling Trouble
FTE 61-79 - 64 F100, 223 six parts needed (and master cylinder tip)
FTE 61-79 - 300 cooling
FTE 61-79 - Cool running 300 6
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!
FTE 61-79 - Air filters/housings
RE: FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!
FTE 61-79 - Need Parts
FTE 61-79 - dash lights

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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 06:49:39 -0500
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re inside runners which hold the glass inside the 79 Bronco tailgate.

Hi Everyone.

Anyone know where I can get a pair of these runners? They guide the glass
as it goes in and out of the tailgate on the 79 Bronco. It goes without
saying that FORD ain't got them anymore. I haven't seen them in any of the
parts books for aftermarket I have either.

Looks like used is my only option, (aside from making them myself, which I
would rather not).

If anyone can help let me know.

Thanks

"Paul"


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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 07:56:40 -0700
From: "Syber"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Emission Equip

Yes, I have a 351M.
This would be great, and a real life saver. Emissions are due this month,
but I do have a one month grace period to comply.. I've been sweating this,
because there are absolutely none to be found in this area.. I've called all
bone yards within a 100 mile area...

Paul Fogle,
Aka Syber

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Eric Guin
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 1998 9:37 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Emission Equip

Hey syber, my truck has all of that too. (soon to be replaced w/ a fresh
good-ol 400M with a non egr manifold.) I have a friend with a 79
ranchero sitting around that has a 400M, maybe i can buy the equiptment
off him, i would sell it to you at cost. I will write back and let you
know how much he wants. dont worry i will make sure it is identical to
the bronco setup. I have a 79 too. You do have a 351 or 400M, right?
AZ Eric
'79 Bronco custom, 400M, 195,000 miles(starting to hear some piston slap
=^[ )

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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 09:32:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Donald Mason
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!

Hay all
I would love to have that "but" isn't thare alwase one? Any way I
don't know how to get it hear other than by UPS & I don't like to use
them any way I live in Texas so forget the idea of driving. If you of
another way email me at donny_mason yahoo.com
Thanks Donny Mason
77' F100


- ---Kenny Realph wrote:
>
> Hey everybody,
> I have a friend with a 351C in his back yard it was in good
condition about
> 3or 4 years ago but now frozen. I don't know if it has all
accessories but
> he was going to take it to scrap yard. told him to wait and I would
see if
> any one was interested on the mailing list. I know they are becoming
rare to
> find and I wouldn't like to know that another was lost forever without
> trying to find a home for it. I live in Columbus OH.
>
> Kenny Realph
> krealph hotmail.com
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 11:38:00 -0800
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400 Ford Rebuild

Eric: I had the same combination as you I used a Lunati Hi 271 Cam and
an Edelbrock performer with a 390 carb[Holley]. Would pull down a
building. I used several carbs before setteling on the 390 much better
response and off road but a tad slow at top end. Your application may
be different. hth


Al
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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 10:37:13 PST
From: "WILLIAM WHITED"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 running really rough

I have that 302 that I couldn't get started, finally after changeing the
starter(gear was all chewed up) and replacing the battery she was
running really rough, think the timing is off or just plain missing.
Haven't had time to fix that problem yet, now she is grinding the
starter gear again. When I replaced the starter the flywheel looked
fine, she is leaking oil really bad, but is it possible that I'm getting
a bad angle with the starter? I haven't pulle dthe new one off yet, but
I am going today. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance

74 F100 RANGER SUPER CAB 390
79 F150 EXPLORER SUPER CAB 302
"IT DON'T GTMO BETTER THEN THIS SEMPER FI"

>I have a 302 in my 79 F150, it is running extremely rough, I thinkj the
>timing is off. How can I change or check the timing? I know this is
>propably simple, but I'm stuck right now without any manuals or
>anything
>right now. I'm trying to get it running alot smoother. TIA

Here's what I remember from my few timing sessions.

1. Disconnect the vacuum advance
2. Hook the light up to the #1 cylinder.
3. (optional) clean the timing marks off and use chaulk (or liquid
paper)
to mark your "set point". For a 352 I think its 8 degrees, I don't know
about a 302.
4. Start it up and shoot the light, try to keep the light "straight on"
the
marks, in other words, do not point light from a wierd angle.
5. If timing is off, shut off the engine and loosen the distribtur nut
(i think
its a 9/16) enough to turn the distributor body. Start the motor up
again
and slightly rotate the distributor until you get your mark.
6. Reconnect your vacuum advance.


Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas





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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 08:31:24 -0500
From: "Rogers"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tilting columns

Since the list has been discussing rag joints and the such for a couple of
days, I'd like to subtract 2 additional cents from it. Has anyone installed
a tilt steering column from another vehicle into their 1969-72 truck? What
vehicle did it come from? Is there a Ford truck with a decent column that
won't require MAJOR surgery? I'd like to know which vehicle in the junk
yard is a likely donor as far as shaft lengths, mounts, diameter, etc.. I
know someone else has tried this. Waiting for your infinite wisdom.

By the way, thanks to all of the gentlemen (Stu, Leray, Daniel) who replied
off-line to my floorpan replacement/Sheetmetal HELP!! note! This surgery is
going great, though a little slower than planned, but I'll be driving a
"new" old truck come summer time.

Thanks
Regards,
Rogers B. Morris, Jr..
rbmii msn.com




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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 15:16:31 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1999 F-100 Supernationals, Pigeon Forge

The 21st annual F-100 Supernations, in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee,
is scheduled for May 13-16, 1999 at the Grand Hotel.

This show features both old and new trucks and is the largest
show of its kind. Last year, over 800 trucks were registered
in the show. Ford Truck Enthusiasts had very good attendance,
especially since it was our first year. We had 32 people (not
including spouses) from our group there. Already we are nearly
double the size we were in April of 98. We're hoping to have
over 100 people attend in 1999.

As many of you may know, several of us are trying to incorporate
a non-profit Ford truck club. We hope to have this together
by the show. Regardless of whether or not this happens by then,
we'd like to put together a committee to plan for the event.

If you would like to be part of the planning, and/or you plan to
attend the show, you can be on this committee by sending an
email to majordomo ford-trucks.com with the following in the
body of the email:

subscribe pfgroup-list ford-trucks.com

This is the only way to subscribe.

Full information about the show will appear on the web site events
guide this evening.

Regards,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 09:52:44 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 w/ 302 - Cooling Trouble

Maybe I will change the thermostat to be on the safe side and go with a
temperature. It's bugging me that I was driving around last night, warmer
than the night before, and the truck wouldn't overheat again. Before I
change the thermostat, I'm going to check my coolant temperature with a
thermometer as the truck warms up. Unless my shop manual is wrong, I
should get a sudden increase in temperature in the rad once the thermostat
opens and the hot coolant from the block flows into the rad. Apparently I
can also check the water pump by removing the thermostat and momentarily
cranking the engine. Course if I do that I might as well change the
thermostat while I'm at it. :-)

As to serpentine belts and reverse rotation water pumps...I have a stock
302 with V-belts in the truck. As I drove a 79 F100 Short Box with an
oil-leaking 300 i6 into the ground, I was rebuilding a 78 F100 pretty much
from the frame up. A kingpin was seized and after attempting to change it
we settled for swapping the front axles, with radius arms, springs and
steering linkage stilled attached, from an F150 into it. Worked rather well
but I really should get an alignment done before I buy new tires :-). As a
first-time learning experience, I rebuilt the 302 changing the rings and
bearings but not getting it overbored. I stayed with the original pistons
and cam rather then invest a lot of money and parts into a first-time
rebuild. I completely redid the brakes - new steels lines, cables, hoses,
everything - she stops great! The only old parts on the engine are the
alternator and power steering pump (I can parallel park again!). I also
went with the headers I got with the engine, rather than stock manifolds.
The only component I expect to have trouble with is the C4 tranny - you
never know what kind of condition a used tranny might be in.

So after two years of working on it (well, probably about 6 months of work
spread out over 2 years...) it was rather nerve racking to have all that
pressure building up in the cooling system. But I'll definitely look into
my thermostat operation...I intend to treat this truck with more respect
than the last...


David Wadson (wadsond air.on.ca)


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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 19:05:37 -0800
From: "jeffd"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 w/ 302 - Cooling Trouble

Haven't read all your posts but you might want to get a block checker.
My early bronco used to overheat at irregular times due to head gaskets
leaking to the cooling port about an inch away from the cylinder. If the
fluid changes any shade from the original blue you have a leak.

Good luck
Jeff

- ----------
> From: David Wadson
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F100 w/ 302 - Cooling Trouble
> Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 5:52 AM
>
> Maybe I will change the thermostat to be on the safe side and go with a
> temperature. It's bugging me that I was driving around last night, warmer
> than the night before, and the truck wouldn't overheat again. Before I
> change the thermostat, I'm going to check my coolant temperature with a
> thermometer as the truck warms up. Unless my shop manual is wrong, I
> should get a sudden increase in temperature in the rad once the
thermostat
> opens and the hot coolant from the block flows into the rad. Apparently I
> can also check the water pump by removing the thermostat and momentarily
> cranking the engine. Course if I do that I might as well change the
> thermostat while I'm at it. :-)
>
> As to serpentine belts and reverse rotation water pumps...I have a stock
> 302 with V-belts in the truck. As I drove a 79 F100 Short Box with an
> oil-leaking 300 i6 into the ground, I was rebuilding a 78 F100 pretty
much
> from the frame up. A kingpin was seized and after attempting to change it
> we settled for swapping the front axles, with radius arms, springs and
> steering linkage stilled attached, from an F150 into it. Worked rather
well
> but I really should get an alignment done before I buy new tires :-). As
a
> first-time learning experience, I rebuilt the 302 changing the rings and
> bearings but not getting it overbored. I stayed with the original pistons
> and cam rather then invest a lot of money and parts into a first-time
> rebuild. I completely redid the brakes - new steels lines, cables, hoses,
> everything - she stops great! The only old parts on the engine are the
> alternator and power steering pump (I can parallel park again!). I also
> went with the headers I got with the engine, rather than stock manifolds.
> The only component I expect to have trouble with is the C4 tranny - you
> never know what kind of condition a used tranny might be in.
>
> So after two years of working on it (well, probably about 6 months of
work
> spread out over 2 years...) it was rather nerve racking to have all that
> pressure building up in the cooling system. But I'll definitely look into
> my thermostat operation...I intend to treat this truck with more respect
> than the last...
>
>
> David Wadson (wadsond air.on.ca)
>
>
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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 18:55:01 PST
From: "Park Hunter"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 64 F100, 223 six parts needed (and master cylinder tip)

I just replaced the worn-out carb on my '64 F100, 223 ci six, with a new
rebuilt unit. Unfortunately, the old one was a Ford one-barrel carb and
the new one is a Holley one-barrel unit. A few parts don't interchange
easily. I'm McGyvering the thing together temporarily, but if anyone has
the following on their parts pile I'd be much obliged for info on cost,
postage, etc...

AIR CLEANER (ford unit's opening is slightly smaller than holley's so it
won't fit the new carb. An old oil bath unit is fine; otherwise I'll
probably scour junkyards for a paper element-type that will fit.)
THROTTLE LINKAGE or just a clip (a small flat plate connects the ball
joint on the throttle linkage with the ball joint on the carb linkage;
sliding spring clips hold the balls in place. The holley's ball was
larger, so I drilled out the hole in the plate. Unfortunately, the
larger diameter ball broke the spring retaining clip, which is all I
really need.)
FUEL LINE (fuel intake is in a different place on the Holley. While I'm
making a new fuel line, I'd really rather have a stock line running the
proper route around the front of the engine.

Here's a hot tip for anyone looking for a master cylinder -- I got a
rebuilt unit for my '64 with manual brakes from Big A parts for $18! The
rebuild kit at NAPA was $16, fer cryin' out loud. Of course, Big A had
to ship the master cylinder from a warehouse in Oklahoma to Indiana, so
there's probably a very limited quantity on these things.

Thanks in advance for any help...

Park

===========================================================
M. Park Hunter, Information Systems Coordinator
Metropolitan School District of Warren County
1222 South St. Rd. 263, West Lebanon, IN 47991
765/893-4525 (phone) 765/893-8354 (fax)
phunter_msdwc hotmail.com
"To err is human. To really screw up, you need a computer!"
===========================================================


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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 19:28:01 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 cooling

> I have a truck with Ford 300 6 cylinder, that has headers and an
> aluminum intake manifold. This truck never quite warms up and is
always
> on the low end of the temperature gauge.>
> Living in Minnesota and driving to Canada often, I would like to get
the
> engine producing more heat. I had thought of removing the fan for the
> winter, perhaps replacing it with an electronic fan on a thermostat.>

I put a winter front on my '85 f-150 300-6. It restricts the air flow to
the rad enough to help keep things warm. It also helps to keep salt and
crud off the rad. You could also put a warmer thermostat in during the
winter months..I did that when i had an '86 f150/302


Don Jones Northern Ont Canada

1970 f-250 4x4
1985 f-150 sc

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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:00:45 -0500
From: "Bob"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cool running 300 6

Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cool running 300 6
you wrote

I have a truck with Ford 300 6 cylinder, that has headers and an
aluminum intake manifold. This truck never quite warms up and is always
on the low end of the temperature gauge.

Living in Minnesota and driving to Canada often, I would like to get the
engine producing more heat. I had thought of removing the fan for the
winter, perhaps replacing it with an electronic fan on a thermostat.

Is there a good junkyard source for an electric fan that I could put in
my truck? Or should I just remove the fan and run without one at all?

Neal

Neal

Instead of going to the trouble of fighting fans & thermostats during cold
weather to get heat inside the cab of your tuck, put a piece of cardboard
to block the airflow through the radiator. I don't know if you have ever
noticed the big (as in semi's) trucks during the winter They have a cover
over their grill that they can open somewhat to adjust the amount of cold
air flowing through the radiator. I have used this in my truck for years.
A 195 degree thermostat & a piece of cardboard works well for me...But I
must admit I live in warm sunny central Florida :o)

Bob
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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:23:51 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!

if you play your cards right you can get it by truck for 50-60 dollars.

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Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:48:05 -0800
From: "Douglas W. Hack"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Air filters/housings

> Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 15:41:14 -0600
> From: William S Hart
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Air filter ??'s
> ...someone had mentioned that the shape of the base was
> important for the carb air flow. Is that unique for each engine, or does
> every engine pretty much need the same thing ?

The base of the air-cleaner should give a nice smooth flow pattern to
the air flowing over it. Obviously the flat shallow air-cleaners that
fit under stock hoods have to change the flow of air 90 degrees in a
relatively tight turn. A good base will curve up and then down into the
carb throat in such a way as to keep the flowing air molecules from
separating from the surface of the base, thereby reducing turbulance and
air friction at the entrance to the carb and increasing maximum flow.
Some carbs are shaped differently (better) at the entrance to the throat
and while the principles stay the same, there are probably minor
differences that make certain bases a better match for certain carbs.

I like K&N filters. You clean, re-oil and reuse them - in the long run
they are cheaper, clean the air better, and usually flow more air. I
once bought a K&N cleaner&filter for a two-barrel Weber (not on a
truck). At the same time I bought a special flow base for the K&N that
actually fit around and over the entry throat flanges, cleaning up the
flow considerably. But that engine had a radical cam, special valve
train, and was set up for high RPM's where the extra flow made a
difference.

I think most trucks aren't spending much time screaming at really high
RPM's, therefore maximum flow shouldn't be a limiting factor. There is
probably much more to be gained in usable torque and horsepower from a
closed air-cleaner of appropriate size to which a cool-air induction
system is attached than from an after-market "drag-style" open element
cleaner. The cooler air taken from in front of the radiator bulkhead is
denser than that under the hood just above the engine. I'm very
satisfied with my stock 78 air cleaner. In the Winter the exhaust stove
preheater helps on cold startups. Not that stock systems are tuned for
it, but the right length and shape of snorkel can actually create an
induction ramming effect, filling the cylinders better for more torque
at a specific RPM. For some Saturday night action in town there's a
couple of really old, cheap tricks -- either turn the lid of the air
cleaner over and bolt it back on or just use a filter that's higher than
stock, turning your no-longer-closed air cleaner into a partially open
element design.

But if you've got a hot engine, and dual high-flow exhaust, there is
nothing like the sound of the air being sucked into an open-element
cleaner when you open it up. Practical? Who cares, it's fun!

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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 00:04:05 -0500
From: "Kenny Realph"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 351C for sale!!

I'm going to be out of town for a few days, but keep your comments coming
about how to ship or if your interested in buying.

Kenny Realph


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Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:17:52 -0800
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Need Parts

Vanners: I need both rubber caskets/seals from around the rear door
glass with opening windows for a 78 Ford Van. is there a source for
these new or does anybody have a serviceable set of old ones they would
part with? TIA

Al
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Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 04:32:06 -0600
From: "myshop"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dash lights

Hi,

My name is Al and I've been off and on with the list for a while now. Seems
every morning I seep through around 20 to 40 messages in the 61-79 list. I'm
really learning a lot from it all and saving some pretty good messages.

I have a 1965 F100 and my dash lights don't light up. When my high beams are....


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