61-79-list-digest Tuesday, November 17 1998 Volume 02 : Number 525



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Re: dana 44 & 60 installation set up tip-OOPS revised
Re: FTE 61-79 - COUPLING ASSEMBLY 79 F-250 4X4
Re: FTE 61-79 - No spark
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 running really rough
FTE 61-79 - WHEELS - QUOINED BOLT HOLES
FTE 61-79 - 78 460 and mounts in a 76?
FTE 61-79 - re Steering shaft solution!?
RE: FTE 61-79 - 78 460 and mounts in a 76?
FTE 61-79 - Track arm alignment.
Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ Heads
FTE 61-79 - re:tranny mounts
FTE 61-79 - Adding P/S to '68 F100

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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 19:20:21 -0800
From: hankg mtaonline.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: dana 44 & 60 installation set up tip-OOPS revised

hankg mtaonline.net wrote:
Should have said with a book and some tools: dial indicator, foot pound
torque wrench, inch pound torque wrench (dial type or beam type) and the
bearings honed out. different bearings for 44, 60 ,70. first thing to
set up is the pinion depth. Little numbers on the gear end of the pinion
shaft normally ecthed in like +2, -1 or 0 . With these numbers and the
proper chart you change the pinion depth shim stack located under the
inner pinion bearing cup. then drive the cup back in with the revised
shim stack. If the pinion markings are not there or you are starting
with a bare housing you would need a pinion depth gauge to find your
reference point. then after the pinion depth is set the next setting is
the pinion bearing preload. this is changed by the little shims by the
outer pinion bearing. This is what you need the dial inch pound torque
wrench for is to measure the force it takes to turn the assembled pinion
and bearings and yoke. Don't install your pinion seal until all settings
are correct, including backlash , carrier brg preload, and gear wear
patterns. This way you may have to remove your yoke again but the up
side to waiting is you will only have to buy one pinion seal if for
some reason you have to remove all the guts again. I've never been able
to remove one without messing it up some.
> Since the shims setup on the inside of the carrier bearings to adjust the backlash and preload of bearings one way to accomplish this if you plan to do several in your lifetime is to buy new side bearings without races and hone the id of the
> bearing out so it will slip on the carrier easily( by hand) . slip the carrier in and out and since your bearings don't require pressing 1)remove the side play in the carrier to housing by placing shims on one side or another while maintaining some gearlash(backlash).2) after side play is gone switch shims from side to side to get the correct backlash, 3) then add ,about three thousandths .003 to each side to set the brg preload. The trick is to honing out the bearing is to grab a snickers bar because you will be there a while. But once you have done this you will be able to set one up in no time. follow the guidelines in the manual and with the proper tools and mechanical knowledge. you should be able to work your way through it. First timers should probably pull the axle housing out for an easier and more pleasant experience. but after one you would probably be able to do it in place. Be advised that different ratio dana gears can require different carriers. genera!
l rule is under 3.91 (3.73, 3.54 and smaller # use the same, and over 3.91 (4.09, 4.10 4.56) and larger # use the same. Stay away from ring gear spacers.

If you want a locker for a non posi rear end I have had a good
experience with the Powertrax locker. most cases it cost around $300
plus shipping and doesn't require the carrier to be removed from the
vehicle unless you have a two piece carrier. I installed one in a
c-clip rear axle and it took about 1 1/2 hours including replacing the
axle seals. dealer pricing on a posi carrier was $700 and then the shim
headache was some thing I didn't have to deal with. hank
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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 19:28:04 -0800
From: "jeffd"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - COUPLING ASSEMBLY 79 F-250 4X4

check with a gear/drive line supply house or call John Border Parts in
San Diego, Ca. Great shop for gears, transmission gears, u-joints and other
stuff.

Jeff

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> From: b clark
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - COUPLING ASSEMBLY 79 F-250 4X4
> Date: Monday, November 16, 1998 8:21 AM
>
> any body familiar with ford steering? the shaft that connects the
> steering sector with the colum shaft, it has a bad u-joint. the ford
> dealer only sells the whole shaft, and it's priced outrageously.
> anybody have a better idea. any info would be helpful. thanks
> bill clark
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >
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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 22:31:04 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - No spark

Pat,
You say that the oil pumps on 400's have a habit of seizing up? I find this
interesting as I helped a friend just recently troubleshoot and repair a
seized oil pump on his 79 F-250 400. Yeah, it started out with a broken
distributor gear. I was able to determine the cause was excess pipe compound
on the threads of the sump pickup pipe where it joins the oil pump body.
After removing the rotor with a lot blows from a soft dead blow hammer I found
a small amount of foreign material jamming the surface of one of the lobes.
At first it appeared it was a very small black chunk of metal. I am one of
these people who has to know where is came from. So, after I drove it off the
surface with a hammer and screwdriver, thought I would keep it from getting
lost by putting it on strong magnet. I was taken back when it would not
stick, and then examined it much closer. I discovered it could be shaped with
enough force while using a screwdriver blade. Then I looked at the
disassembled pump and noted pipe compound forced out near the end of the pipe
inside the pump body, it had formed several little lumps. They had been there
since 1979, or so I think, I went on and attacked the lumps with a
screwdriver and sure enough they could still be formed and shaped.
Additionally, they could be broken free without a whole lot of effort.
Therefore I believe one of these broke off and caused the pump to seize.
Question, why would anyone much less Ford use something like pipe compound on
a lube oil system??? This is definitely not a good practice. If anyone has
more information on this I would like to know more.
Thanks Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 19:56:49 PST
From: "WILLIAM WHITED"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 running really rough

My 79 is not in the greatest shape, the weather and salt air down here
in GTMO is not the greatest. I got the truck for a great price and it
is another project for me.

74 F100 RANGER SUPER CAB 390
79 F150 EXPLORER SUPER CAB 302
"IT DON'T GTMO BETTER THEN THIS SEMPER FI"


______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 23:01:40 -0500
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - WHEELS - QUOINED BOLT HOLES

OK.......so maybe its not spelled right, but we're talking here about the
every-other-bolt hole tapered and punch-pressed wheel for most 350s or Dana
70 duallies.

Question: - - - on the rear axle, how does the inside rear wheel center
itself on the hub.....does it use the beveled hole, or the punch-pressed
riser-hole?

I'm having trouble finding new quoined wheels and was wondering if I could
use a non-quoined wheel and have a taper installed by a machine shop.
(Piece of pie !) This would work fine for the outer wheel, but Im not
sure how the inside wheel mounts (never had it off)

Anyone done this before ? ? ? Could there be a thing like a flared
bushing that slips over the stud for this very purpose ? ? ?

Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW AC
1970 F100 (ret)





Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 23:12:46 -0500
From: "Matthew Schwartz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 460 and mounts in a 76?

I am about to spend some money on a 1976 F250 "Explorer Package" =
Supercab 2WD. My question is can the motor mounts and accompaning 460 be =
transplanted into the 1976 frame?


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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 23:31:11 -0500
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re Steering shaft solution!?

any body familiar with ford steering? the shaft that connects the
steering sector with the colum shaft, it has a bad u-joint. the ford
dealer only sells the whole shaft, and it's priced outrageously.
anybody have a better idea. any info would be helpful. thanks
bill clark


Hi Bill.

For the price you might want to check out "Flaming River" or similar type
aftermaket suppliers. (You will find adds in any of the 4X "Rags".)

They make a better replacement shaft which gets rid of the Rag joint. (From
what I understand this is a weak point.)

No I haven't done this, (yet). But from what I understand this is a good
fix.

If the Dealer ones are that expensive and you end up spending that kind of
"coin" anyway you might as well get the best!

Later,

"Paul"

Flaming River at www.flamingriver.com



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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 21:36:37 -0700
From: Randy Collins
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 78 460 and mounts in a 76?


I am about to spend some money on a 1976 F250 "Explorer Package" = Supercab
2WD. My question is can the motor mounts and accompaning 460 be =
transplanted into the 1976 frame?

I pulled a 460 C-6 from a 1975 2WD Super Cab and installed it in a 1977
standard cab 2WD. Everything fit just fine...so yes!


Later,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
460 SUPER COBRA JET



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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 23:38:00 -0500
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Track arm alignment.


The one hassle I had was the front shock bracket on the driver's side that
also provides the tracking arm pivot. I found one from a Bronco, then had a
3"
to 4" piece welded on and a new hole drilled for the track arm. You'll want
to
do this so the axle doesn't "pull over" to the left with the lift kit....



Hi Jeff.

Glad to hear from ya!

Refer track arm bracket - I think I will be going with the Superlift
Adjustable track arm.

I think it should work, but if it don't then I will do what you said.

Thanks

About the rad arms - Someone else is sending me a set in Jan. I am not sure
if they have the Quad shock bracket but if they don't then Tough Country
sell a stock factory shock mount kit for the 79 Bronco.

Later,

"Paul"


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Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 23:40:33 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ Heads

Dale Frenz writes: >> some 429CJ heads would be nice

It has been my experience that using CJ or SCJ heads on a truck creates
problems. Such as obtaining headers that fit both the truck and the heads.
The exhaust ports are considerably larger than stock and the use of a set of
headers designed for stock heads develops leaks very easily. I spoke with
people at Hooker, and they would not recommend any of their header due to past
experience. I did find a source short of going to custom made headers at $100
per tube. Dark Horse Performance at www.moueads.com/dhorse.htm can provide
them for less than $400. I agree the PI heads would probably be better.
Thanks Burt Hill Kennewick Wa 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 00:05:12 PST
From: "bill comstock"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re:tranny mounts

I must agree that the easiest way to mount your tranny is to find
crossmember off late 70's, my change from c-4 to fmx was done this way.
The tranny length was the same but the mount holes were ~2" different on
spacing from tailpiece end. My crossmember has three holes on each side
with the center of crossmember offset forward. All i did was flip it
180 degrees and it lined up perfectly. I used the center hole on the
sides, guess you could gain another inch by using the forward most one,
that is if your tranny is that long. The driveshaft was another story.
Good luck

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Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 04:54:33 -0600
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Adding P/S to '68 F100

Thanks to all who replied to my oil pressure question. Now, onto adding
power steering. My truck is a '68 F100 4x2 SWB with upper-body-building
manual steering which scares my fiancee out of driving it. Anyway, I seem
to remember the setup from my old '67 sported a gearbox from something like
a '71. The steering column also looked to be a bit shorter than the
current one (column shifter). I'm figuring that I'll be needing another
crank pulley as well; it's a 360 with a smog pump and an alternator. Am I
to understand that the power gearbox will need to be mounted somewhere
besides where the manual box currently resides? I thought I read in a
recent post that it moved somewhere else on the frame bit I could be wrong;
my eyes tire...
bigric mail.utexas.edu, bigric ....

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