61-79-list-digest Thursday, November 12 1998 Volume 02 : Number 520



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Sheet Metal HELP!!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - kingpins' 65 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - starter problems -- solution
RE: FTE 61-79 - Please help! need my truck back on the road!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tis the season (for carb pre-heat)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sheet Metal HELP!!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lines
Re: FTE 61-79 - kingpins' 65 F100
FTE 61-79 - Seal Kits for power steering

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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 07:10:05 -0500
From: "Rogers"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sheet Metal HELP!!!

I think that there is someone out in FTE-land who has replaced (or had
replaced) the floorpans in his vehicle. I took it upon myself to order
replacement sheetmetal floorpans for my '70 F100. Got the parts a couple of
weeks ago and took a second look under the truck this week to see how many
hours of work I was in for. It looks as if the floorpan is an actual
stressed member and if I had just cut the old out and welded the new in (my
initial plan), that I would likely have to deal somehow with several hundred
pounds? of sheet metal cab laying on the frame. It looks as if the floor
pan is welded to the cab support mounts. Has ANYONE done this repair?? Am
I a little overzealous in assuming this is a DIY project? If not, what is a
reasonable cost to have this done by a professional?

Also, I've searched in vain for the aluminum strip that mounts to the front
of the hood of 68-72 Ford F100s. This is the long piece that goes along
the very front edge of the hood all the way across and slides into an end
cap on each side. I've got MAC's and Dennis Carpenter catalogs and have seen
every piece BUT this one.


Thanks in Advance,
Rogers B. Morris, Jr.
1970 Ford F100 "Getting Ready for Woodward Dream Cruise '99"
rbmii msn.com




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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 04:42:10 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - kingpins' 65 F100

From: Gary, 78 BBB
>Pressing is the best way by quite a margin in every respect. Pounding,
>heating, prying all take a toll on the alignment and structural
>integrity of the I beam and connected components.

Applying heat (within reason) shouldn't diminish the I beam's
integrity. The way to align them is heat and bend the I beams.
I use propane, an O/A torch is ok but care needs to be taken with
heat. Carpenters use hammers and a press isn't that hard to improvise so
don't beat on it with a ball peen. Clean it first saves time and money.
I agree with removing the I beam and replacing bushings, grommets
and other related hardware at the same time as the kingpins. Why go
through this again, replacing one thing at a time.
The key reason for kingpin failure is lack of maintenance. Grease
will harden and clog the grease fitting. So even if it's been greased,
it may not get to where it's needed. After reading about this problem a
couple years ago on this list I discovered I had this problem on my '73
F100. I heated the area with my propane torch which melted the old
grease and I was able to push out the old grease with a grease gun.
There was no harm to the kingpin. I was one of the lucky ones.
The thing about heating parts is you don't want it to change the
properties of the metal, just free the part by expanding an O.D. or
loosening dried junk. Getting stuff red hot is not good but hot will
cool to it's original state. Heating or freezing close tolerant parts
puts less strain on the materials than cold pressing them in or out. It
must be done correctly or damage can occur.

Deacon
deconblu earthlink.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================




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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 05:02:48 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - starter problems -- solution

From: Jamey Moss
>It's embarrassing learning a lesson like this in front of hundreds of
>laughing Ford truck fans on the internet,

Who's laughing? Asking before jumping into it, saved you from
unnecessary damage. Everyone who likes fixing things has escalated minor
repairs to need a new one, many times. It goes with the territory.
Design Engineers love hiding bolts for some reason. I bet there's a
bonus for them if it's found a part's replaced do to their hidden bolt.
;]

Deacon
deconblu earthlink.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================




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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 07:45:42 -0600
From: Shawn Donkin
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Please help! need my truck back on the road!

I have all the brackets except one of the ps ones still connected to the
new
engine so that shouldn't be a problem
i found a c6 tranny after calling just about every place in the phone
book
(trans shops, junk yards etc) while visiting a friend today.
looks like i'll have to give my old tranny + $175..oh well, so much for
keeping the 351c/c4 for a possible rebuild into a small(er)
vehicle :( Maybe I'll just sell the 351c and use the money to purchase
a
truck i found while also talking with my friend
(76F100 with built 390/c6 for $200-$300 ..possible distributor went bad
and
the truck died.) we'll see. As far as the mount towers go,
can i just take them off a truck that comes with a 351m/400 or 460? dont

know if they'll fit my truck(68) where did you get yours from?

Thanks for your help,
Shawn
'68 F100 2WD 351c/c4
In with the new--->351m/c6 ( Cant Wait! )


>----------
>From: Arlene Mason
>Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 1998 2:29 PM
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Please help! need my truck back on the
road!
>
>
>We swapped a 351C and FMX for a 400M and a C6, we did change the motor
>mounts and towers. The driveline did not need any modifacation, it
>all fit just fine. The exhaust was perfect (of course we have headers
>and re-used the 351C heads). The only trouble we had was that inch to
>inch and a half difference in deck height, we needed to change all of
>the brackets for the p/s and the alternator, etc. (and the
>transmission - we hadn't planned on that not fitting). However, when
>it was all done, the truck purrs!!! You will be happy with it once it
>is on it's feet again!
>
>Arlene
>'77 F100 - 400/C6

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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 09:48:09 -0500 (EST)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tis the season (for carb pre-heat)

> vacuum operated dookie in the snout to control a warm air flap. When
> engine vacuum is high, it closes off the main air inlet, and opens the
> air inlet port that comes off the heat stove so it gets nice warm air
> into the carb at light load. When manifold is lower (when You romp it),
> the flap closes the warm air port and opens the main air inlet so it
> only sucks cool air when you're looking for power...
> There's also a thermostatic vacuum thingy in the air cleaner housing
> that shuts off the vacuum supply to the flap when the air temps are
> high.

Steve,

Can you describe where the vacuum connections go for one of these?
I picked up a stock airbox from a junkyard and am not sure where to
bring in the vacuum connection. I'm assuming the thermostatic
control is the metal thingy with two nipples, so vacuum goes
to that first, then from there to one of the plastic doohickies
on the side of the air cleaner, then from there to the snout
controller. Or do I just go straight from the thermostat out
to the snout?

Hmm, while I'm at it, does it matter which side of the thermostatic
vacuum thingy is input and which is output? If you've already
run into this kind of stuff, it might save me a lot of guesswork...

Thanks,

- --sean

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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 08:53:22 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sheet Metal HELP!!!

>I think that there is someone out in FTE-land who has replaced (or had
>replaced) the floorpans in his vehicle. I took it upon myself to order
>replacement sheetmetal floorpans for my '70 F100. Got the parts a couple of
>weeks ago and took a second look under the truck this week to see how many
>hours of work I was in for. It looks as if the floorpan is an actual
>stressed member and if I had just cut the old out and welded the new in (my
>initial plan), that I would likely have to deal somehow with several hundred
>pounds? of sheet metal cab laying on the frame. It looks as if the floor
>pan is welded to the cab support mounts. Has ANYONE done this repair?? Am
>I a little overzealous in assuming this is a DIY project? If not, what is a
>reasonable cost to have this done by a professional?

Well I had mine replaced last spring. Since I don't know how to weld
(*ducks from all the flying objects and amazed gasps*) I took it to a shop,
I had to buy the parts and it ended up costing me about 2500 for new floors
welded in, also got new cab supports, and new ... well that little piece
where the door lines up and holds the hinge ...can't remember what its
called. This may seem expensive, but the guy who did it did an excellent
job. You could dance a jig on these things and they wouldn't even bounce
as far as I can tell. It made things so much nicer ... no more cab
bouncing over the washboards and hitting the frame.

Anyway for your questions, you are correct as far as I can tell that if you
remove the floor boards the cab is going to sink onto the frame, since the
front cab supports are welded to the floorboard. Like I said I didn't
actually do the work, but that's how things looked to me. Maybe I got
screwed because it cost so much, but please don't tell me, I love the job
they did and they were really really nice about the whole thing, not to
mention they came in exactly at their estimate! How many times does that
happen?

Anyway hope this helps, if you want any more info lemme know I might be
able to provide some ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 10:20:45 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lines

Phazelag aol.com wrote:
>
> I just had the same problem with my 78 F-150 that had been modified with
> 3/4ton axles and twin piston caliper brakes. The guy who did this
> modification (old Owner) had installed the brake lines with the large
> reservoir in to the rear and this is wrong. A mechanic figured it out for me
> after I couldnt. He switched the lines (large reservoir to the front) and the
> brakes are now fine. Hope this helps Scott

The reason the original owner had a problem is that the fitting sizes
are reversed from half ton to 3/4 ton. I imagine the factory did this on
purpose to keep from installing the incorrect MC. If you want a real big
MC (bore), try an 86 Mustang SVO. It's a drop in for 78 1/2 tons,
fitting size and all. For info

78- 1/2 ton-3/4 ton 2WD-MC bore 1.000
78 3/4 ton 4WD to 1 ton-MC bore 1.0625
86 Mustang SVO -MC bore 1.125

SVO MC is cheap and alum too (oooh!!, weight savings :-))

OX
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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 07:44:53 PST
From: "b hp"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - kingpins' 65 F100

To help in the kingpin removal I used an acetylene cutting torch setup
(any torch head will work) I donít think that you can achieve the heat
needed with propane. I only heated the I-beam portion on both sides of
the assembly where it meets the pin. This is the only place itís going
to really stick, as it has metal to metal contact and nothing pivots at
that point. Once the metal was cherry red..out came Mr. Big Hammer and
brute force & ignorance take over (have a friend hold the drift with
vise grips). I wouldnít try to chill anything around the pin area, the
beam is cast and any quenching will cause major problems down the line.
It will make them brittle and prone to failure. Adding lube a month or
so before hand will help with the bushings not the pin itself, if you
have the bronze bushing they will have to be pressed in. the nylon
variety will cook away when you heat up the casting.

>>If you can get some chunks of steel plate, and have access to a welder
(or someone
>>with a welder...) you can make a simple small kingpin press that
presses the pins out
>>using a small hydraulic jack, and do it without removing the I-beam.

That sounds excellent, the thought of removing the I-beams was not one I
was looking forward to. Fortunately I didnít have to. I donít think
there is any one prescribed method for this job. Itís the kind of
operation you might only do once or twice and after that you will avoid
your friends when they ask for your help with their kingpins.

Bruce, Ď65 Mercury F-100 (M-100?)


______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 10:18:49 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Seal Kits for power steering

I'm replacing my power steering gear box in my 74 f350 390 2wd 4sp.

Picked up one at my local wrecking yard. It works good, but has a little
fluid stain on upper end. My parts shop said they sold a uppeer seal kit
and a lower
seal kit. Question is, has anyone replace or used a seal kit?

Can a layman do this without having springs and bearings fly everywhere's.

Also, how would you check the pump to see if its doing its job?

The gear box in the truck leaks so bad now and when I bought it, that I
have never felt power assistance while steering even when I add fluid.

Not to draw this out, I remember a discussion earlier about turn radius.
Just in case the gear box was turned in removing and handling from the
wrecking yard. I read where there was 4 revolutions from side to center or
was it 4 revolution from side to side.

My wheels will be stright when taking the old one off. So I'm hoping to have....


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