Re: FTE 61-79 - Deacon's Appetite For Fellow List Members

61-79-list-digest Monday, November 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 516

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Deacon's Appetite For Fellow List Members
Re: FTE 61-79 - Door and Window seals
FTE 61-79 - Clutch Release Lever "Bearing"
Re: FTE 61-79 - Door and Window seals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Clutch Release Lever "Bearing"
Re: FTE 61-79 - Deacon's Appetite For Fellow List Members
FTE 61-79 - Cab mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - gear ratios in 4x4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Block Casting # help!
FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 front
FTE 61-79 - 3" wide spring pads
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP540 5-speeds transmission info! :))
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 front
Re: FTE 61-79 - Block Casting # help!
FTE 61-79 - AOD
Re: FTE 61-79 - Block Casting # help!
FTE 61-79 - FE Rods
Re: FTE 61-79 - 3" wide spring pads
FTE 61-79 - Doors and stuff like that.
FTE 61-79 - Help with Ibeam bushings needed
FTE 61-79 - pinion seal
FTE 61-79 - Different ratio geasrs in 4X4
FTE 61-79 - Seat belt kit for '65 F100
FTE 61-79 - Rattle
FTE 61-79 - FE Rocker Shafts Breaking
FTE 61-79 - Here I is!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Different ratio geasrs in 4X4
FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel
FTE 61-79 - Jim's belly
FTE 61-79 - Seat belt kit for '65 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear Sump Oil Pan
RE: FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel
FTE 61-79 - AOD tranny for 400 engine
FTE 61-79 - Re: 1976 Bed
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Need help !
FTE 61-79 - Calling All Quick-Fix experts!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Calling All Quick-Fix experts!
FTE 61-79 - Water Pump, Thermosat, etc sealants?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Seat belt kit for '65 F100
FTE 61-79 - Re:Brake Bleeding
re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79 list split vote
re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79 list split vote
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79 list split vote
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79 list split vote
Re: FTE 61-79 - Block Casting # help!
FTE 61-79 - RE: FE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel
FTE 61-79 - Electric fans
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: FE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel
FTE 61-79 - 351W dieseling

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 06:33:35 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Deacon's Appetite For Fellow List Members

From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Deacon's Appetite For Fellow List Members
Date sent: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 15:45:22 -0800

> Ack ack ack ack. Ack ack ack ack.
>
> {Do not be afraid. We are your friends.}

Welcome back Jim :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 05:16:42 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door and Window seals

My 2 cents worth: I just purchased window seals from Autokrafters for
my '61 F-100, they were of higher quality than the ones I bought from
Ford in 1982.

Blaine

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
> Date sent: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 13:18:40 EST
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Saturday?
>
> > >
> >
> > I'm considering buying mine from them. How much were they? And after they
> > get there, lemme know what you think of the quality. I may end up just
> > going to the dealer, but.....
>
> Door and window (complete kit), 2 each was $79 total on my card. I'll let
> you guys know how they fit etc.. I think Jason on the bronco list used them
> and was pretty happy with them.
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 07:31:01 -0500
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clutch Release Lever "Bearing"

Hi everybody.

I have a question about the clutch release "Bearing" s shown the 1979 Ford
Light Truck "Body, Chassis, & Electrical" Manual.

This bearing "lives" between the forks of the clutch release lever. Mine
has some impression on it and possibly some light scoring. (It is a seal
bearing and going by feel I think it has this.)

Question # 1. Is this bearing still available from Ford, and/or are there
replacement aftermarket ones available? Are there "heavier duty" ones
available? (I like "Heavy Duty"! Grunt, grunt.)

Question # 2. I also need to replace the "rubber boot" which goes around
the release lever where it enters the bell housing. Same goes for it.
(Available?) (Note it could be reused but it does have a small rip in it.)
The manual calls it a "shield".

Any help on this would be appreciated!

Thanks,

"Paul"

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 07:58:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door and Window seals

Date sent: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 05:16:42 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door and Window seals

> My 2 cents worth: I just purchased window seals from Autokrafters for my
> '61 F-100, they were of higher quality than the ones I bought from Ford in
> 1982.

Yeah, it was one of those spur of the moment things. My wife misplaced a
stack of catalogs somewhere and all I could find was an old JC Whitney
catalog so that's who I called. I really should try to support our sponsors I
guess.

When I finally get to it I will have a library set up in the barn along with a
phone so my stuff won't dissappear on me. I have their catalog along with
Dennis Carpenter's somewhere.........

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 06:16:22 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Clutch Release Lever "Bearing"

From: Mr. Paul R. Boudreault
>I have a question about the clutch release "Bearing" s shown the 1979
Ford
>Light Truck "Body, Chassis, & Electrical" Manual.
>
>This bearing "lives" between the forks of the clutch release lever.
Mine
>has some impression on it and possibly some light scoring. (It is a
seal
>bearing and going by feel I think it has this.)

A throw-out bearing lives in a violent atmosphere and make have some
scars from it and still be serviceable. If it makes noise when
depressing the clutch, it's bad. As for their availability, you can find
them in just about every auto parts store. It's best to change them at
the same time as a clutch.

>Question # 2. I also need to replace the "rubber boot" which goes
around
>the release lever where it enters the bell housing. Same goes for it.
>(Available?) (Note it could be reused but it does have a small rip in
it.)
>The manual calls it a "shield".

May be less common but available, I'm sure. I would also feel
comfortable repairing the old one. It's up to you.

This is only MHO and not professional advice. They come next. :)

Deacon
deconblu

earthlink.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 09:27:22 -0500
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cab mounts

I need cab mounts in my 1968 F-250. I bought a set and I am getting ready to put them in. I could use a little advice. I plan to take the whole front clip off (for other reasons) to get at them nicely. I suppose from the looks of the things, you weld a bead across the straight seam at the top. The bottom looks like it could bolt on to the floor pan. They are the big piece of sheet metal, entomb the whole mess type. The original mounts have a flange around them perhaps 9" tall and 5" wide. Does anyone make a replacement mount that just fits and welds to this flange? i.e. cut the old mount out and weld the new one in? It seems to make sense to me. If not, why not?

Doss
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 08:53:41 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - gear ratios in 4x4

>> I have a question concerning gear ratios in my 4 wheel drive. If I put
>> 3.50:1 in the back, and 4.11:1 in the front, will I be able to drive it in
>> 4 wheel drive on the road?
>
>Yes. For a very short distance. If you put gearing like that in there, it
>will cause the front tires to rotate at a different speed that the back
>tires. If you are on hard pack when this happens, the difference in speed
>will cause things to start binding up inside. I don't know which part would
>go first, but you could destroy your transfer case, drivelines(U joints), and
>the differentials.
>
>On the other hand, if you put different size tires on your truck, then you
>could get away with this without a problem. With different size tires on the
>front axle and the rear, it will even out the difference in the gearing. I'm
>not sure which end would need the taller tires, or how much taller they would
>have to be, but I'm sure one of the other guys on the list knows the math and
>could tell you. It would probably be a lot easier to get matching gears
>though. It would definitely look better.
>

Looking better is true, you'd have to put the larger tires on the FRONT to
get it to even out. With the 411's you'd end up with the front tires going
waaayyy slower than the rears, and in my opinion this would make it
uncontrollable on anything with any sort of grip ... you could however sit
and do donuts all day ....

Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 09:05:28 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Block Casting # help!

At 04:18 PM 11/7/98 , you wrote:
>Ya, i saw that page after i posted to the group .sorry it looks like it's a
>351c and not a
>351m like i was told.Same valve covers but smallblock bolt pattern.. the
>junkyard mught be willing to do a trade with my c4 for a FMX tranny that they
>have.. any comments on this tranny? ..is it a good trade?
>

c4 to FMX, most people would say you're losing money on that trade, but
we've got several FMX's behind 351W's and haven't had any problems with
them. I think the one in our Cougar (hopped up quite a bit) is starting to
go, but its been raced and who knows what else, we haven't rebuilt it in
the 6 years or whatever that we've owned it.

Hope this helps a little.

Bill
Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 10:30:59 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 front

Yo OX !!!!

>> Hey OX. What about Dana 60s for the front? Are there any around your
area and if there are how cheap (expensive) are they? I'm looking for one,
maybe two, with disc brakes. If I have a choice of gears I'd prefer
3.5s.

Put me down for one also...solid front axle, that is ...provided the price
is right & pumpkin on the drivers side of course....
I, too, prefer a 3.50 but will accept any ratio - 3.73 would be 2nd choice.
Where are you located???

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 10:35:56 -0500
From: luxjo

thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 3" wide spring pads

Hey all

Hope everyone had a fine weekend.

I have been trying to find new spring pads for my rear axle. Part of
my "block spitting" ( I spit my 4 inch rear blocks right out of the
truck 4 wheelin last weekend, what a mess) problem seems to stem from
rounded spring pads. They are not horrible, but have about 1/16 inch
play (rocking front to back) when a flat lift block is placed on them. I
have only found 2.5 inch wide spring pads, sold from local 4WD shop
under Mopar name and in Summit catalog from competition engineering.
Anyone have a source for the factory type spring pads. I called Ford and
they are discontinued from 83 on down. Will later model stuff work?? Did
all dana 60/61 axles use 3 inch axle tubes??

OX
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 10:42:10 -0500
From: luxjo

thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP540 5-speeds transmission info! :))

NP 540 wrote:
>

> >> 6 bolts hold the front face of this transmission to the bellhousing

Only 4 on NP435 or T-18.

> >> 2 top holes: 9 inches center to center (have ears) and 1 3/8 from
> >> top of front face, 1 1/16 diameter.

You mean 1-1/16 dia bolts? That huge compared to stock trans.

OX
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 10:45:15 -0500
From: luxjo

thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 front

am14

chrysler.com wrote:
>
> Yo OX !!!!
>
> >> Hey OX. What about Dana 60s for the front? Are there any around your
> area and if there are how cheap (expensive) are they? I'm looking for one,
> maybe two, with disc brakes. If I have a choice of gears I'd prefer
> 3.5s.
>
> Put me down for one also...solid front axle, that is ...provided the price
> is right & pumpkin on the drivers side of course....
> I, too, prefer a 3.50 but will accept any ratio - 3.73 would be 2nd choice.
> Where are you located???
>

I'm in central Jersey and the guy I got mine from had 3 or 4 left. I
think he gets 600$, but may be willing to take 500$. I think he has 2
3.5? and one 4.10.

OX
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 09:51:29 -0600
From: Shawn Donkin
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Block Casting # help!

Actually, they want my c4 with a 7 mo rebuild and & $75 .. i didn't think that
was a worthy trade. Currently looking to find myself a c6

Shawn

William S Hart wrote:

> At 04:18 PM 11/7/98 , you wrote:
> >Ya, i saw that page after i posted to the group .sorry it looks like it's a
> >351c and not a
> >351m like i was told.Same valve covers but smallblock bolt pattern.. the
> >junkyard mught be willing to do a trade with my c4 for a FMX tranny that they
> >have.. any comments on this tranny? ..is it a good trade?
> >
>
> c4 to FMX, most people would say you're losing money on that trade, but
> we've got several FMX's behind 351W's and haven't had any problems with
> them. I think the one in our Cougar (hopped up quite a bit) is starting to
> go, but its been raced and who knows what else, we haven't rebuilt it in
> the 6 years or whatever that we've owned it.
>
> Hope this helps a little.
>
> Bill
> Just my 2cents
>
> Bill
>
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 10:59:37 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AOD

Doug Brodie writes: >>Which of the later AOD tranys will bolt up to my '79
400?

The 460 and the 351M/400 carry the same bolt pattern - Engine to
Bellhousing, so your choices are limited. Also the later AOD that fits
bolt pattern wise, has an "electronic box" that tells it when to shift
instead of the conventional hydraulic valve body and governor. Someone
says there is a company that makes this "electronic box" that will allow us
to use the later tranny, but so far I haven't been able to come up with a
company name nor price for it.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 10:00:54 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Block Casting # help!

At 09:51 AM 11/9/98 , you wrote:
>Actually, they want my c4 with a 7 mo rebuild and & $75 .. i didn't think that
>was a worthy trade. Currently looking to find myself a c6
>
>Shawn
>
If it was even up trading, with neither tranny having been rebuilt recently
I'd have had to think about it, but there are so many more parts available
for the C4, that the question is gone when the money is involved (for me
anyway) ...

Good luck with the C6, you needed it for a small block right ? Those are a
little tough to come by from what I've heard ...

Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:11:24 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Rods

Bill Hart writes: >>but don't the rods have to be a different length for
all three engines

Rods are the same length on the 390/406/410/427/428 (I think). The 332/352
had a different rod length (and I just learned this through this list).
The difference in height is made up by moving the wrist pin location in the
piston. No known problems with the piston skirt/rod interference you speak
of. Go to your local FOMOCO parts Guru and have him look up the pistons in
a 1967 410 Mercury and also a 1967 390 Mercury and see if the P/N's aren't
different. Also have him look up the rods. Rod P/N's will be the same,
but the pistons will be different.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:36:43 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 3" wide spring pads

From: luxjo

thecore.com
Date sent: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 10:35:56 -0500
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 3" wide spring pads

> I have been trying to find new spring pads for my rear axle.

You mean the bracket that's welded to the tubes? If you mean the angled,
cast block, not the tube brackets, I made my own out of some 3" flat stock.
I cut two sides to the angle I needed for the drive shaft and welded two flat
pieces top and bottom and drilled the locator holes in them. I still have them.
I believe they gave me about 4" of lift, not sure but if you really want
something strong and will make it yourself I suggest you make the top and
bottom long enough and wide enough to drill holes for the U bolts so there is
no way they can spit themselves out. If necessary you can relieve them in
the center where the spirng rests to allow more motion for the spring but
since the spring will be on top it shouldn't matter. You could even get more
elaborate and fit them to the pads with the sides extended to mate with the
tubes and run the U bolts inside the two sides for even more strength.

Don't ask me to draw it up here but if you give me your fax number I'll fax
you a sketch of what I made and also what I'm suggesting here :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 10:58:35 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Doors and stuff like that.

Paul,

When I did the repairs to Henry this summer, I ran into the same question
regarding parts certification. For a part to be certified, it not only has
to fit within certain tolerances, but also has to meet corrosion resistance
standards. The body shops that did my estimates would not reveal their
sources, but that was one of the criteria for replacement parts before the
insurance company would pay. I decided that I would invest the time to find
suitable used parts. My logic was that if it was original, then it had to
meet the requirements. I also got a door and fender for about what the
fender alone would cost new. I realize that northern climates prohibit this
strategy for the most part. When you get your new body parts, try to be
sure that they meet the replacement part certification standards. Any
decent insurance agent should be able to fill you in on what the specifics
are or direct you to someone who can.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:07:23 -0600
From: sjacobi

fd9ns01.okladot.state.ok.us
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Help with Ibeam bushings needed

Has anyone out there ever tried changing the Bushings on the I-Beams on
your trucks? How hard is it? How do you get the I-Beam to slide of the
frame mount? Should I pay someone to do this? Help needed.
Garry Bowling
1967 F100 Longbed (christine)

This is a relatively easy procedure. It takes a lot of jacking and
maneuvering with jack stands, though. I highly recommend that you

replace your radius arm bushings while you're at it. I also recommend
going with polyurethane bushings. Have fun!

Steve

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 12:12:30 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pinion seal

Don Grossman writes: >>I'm sorry I thought it was a Dana 60 for some
reason. I have not had a 9" center section apart so I can't help with that
one

Yo Don!!! Gary is off out there in left field someplace all by himself.
It was a Dana 60 in question. Besides the yoke of all 9"'ers I've been in
comes off the pinion shaft. Remove the nut/washer and it just slides off.
Same as any other rear end I've been in.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 12:29:55 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Different ratio geasrs in 4X4

Cooter writes: >>I have a question concerning gear ratios in my 4 wheel
drive. If I put 3.50:1 in the back, and 4.11:1 in the front, will I be
able to drive it in 4 wheel drive on the road?

Not very far. It will bind and its like some one locked your brakes. If
you have enough horsepower up front, you can break something easily.
Differences in ratios must be very slight, with the front being the lower
numerically - (IE 4.10 front 4.11 rear - 3.50 front 3.55 rear. Reason for
this is that the front takes longer path in in a curve.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 11:08:19 -0700
From: Jim & Becky White
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Seat belt kit for '65 F100

Guys,

I have just signed on to the list this week after picking up a '65 2wd
F100. The truck is in very good running condition and my first order of
business is to install some seat belts so I can take my 16 month old son
with me while I'm running errands.

I know some of the purists out there are probably cringing at the
thought of tampering with the cab in this way; but for myself one of the
biggest reasons I have for getting into an older pickup now is the time
I spent with my Dad and his various pickups growing up.

Could someone please point me in the right direction for a seat belt kit
for this truck. I know they were offered in the '65 because they are
referenced in my owner's manual; but I believe they only made it into
the custom cab's, and this is a standard model. A 3-point setup would
be ideal but I would be satisfied with lap belts if that's the only
practical avenue.

I've already gleamed a lot off this thread in just a few short days!!

Thanks in advance for the help,

Jim White
65 F100 / 300ci S6 / 4spd
white

micron.net /Boise, ID

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 13:09:10 -0500
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rattle

Justin Farcas writes: >>I heard a rattling near the transfer case, I
looked under an inspected, finding a ratttle front driveshaft. Can this be
tightened, or is it just worn out? ANd if it is worn out....hard to fix or
not?

Can you be a bit more specific as to exactly where your looseness is??? At
one end??? In the middle (the splined slip portion)??

Anything can either be repaired or replaced, but we need a bit more
information.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:08:52 EST
From: DWNissen

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Rocker Shafts Breaking

Hi Guys,
I am a new subscriber and really enjoy reading the info that I see. I have a
problem that has been plagueing me here. I have an 66 F-100 with a 390. My
friend and I have reciently pulled the engine and replaced the cam with an
Edelbrock Performer Plus cam. The performance increase is just what I was
looking for but now I am constantly breaking rocker shafts on the number 1
cylinder. This just happened again as I came home for lunch today. Also
bending rods in the process, but only on number 1 cylinder. Any ideas? Thanks
for any help.

Dennis Nissen
66 F-100, 390 ci, 3 spd.
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 13:12:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Here I is!

>Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 10:11:51 -0600
>From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Deacon's Appetite For Fellow List Members
>
>It's like I told you months ago, he's picking us off one by one. Who
>knows who might be next, Steve's been suffering from a bad back.
>Coincedence? You gotta wonder.
>
> Marko cheated, he found a Marauder complete with 410 :-). But Azie,
> I think your memory is better than mine, I kind of remember him
> discussing his piston selection here, a long time ago. Speaking
> of Marko, where is he? And Stu, for that matter.
>

Hi Brother Ballinger,

Deacon has had me held captive in his basement.......feeding me this funny
medication
and these herbs with goats milk etc.
chanting something about Hare' Krishna and ringing these little finger cymbols
blah blah blah..........Quite relaxing actually. I get 5 minutes per day
online.

I've Been lurking. My life is way too hectic for me to participate much. I
have a very different schedule than last year so participation on the list
is very much diminished
over last year when it was convenient to be active. Babies (3 under the age
of 3 including my 2 week old!!), truck restos, etc.....
They take up a lot of time form the normal day to day activites in life.
Someday it will slow down, 'bout the time I die!

Take care and hollar at me sometime.

stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 13:37:36 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Different ratio geasrs in 4X4

>Not very far. It will bind and its like some one locked your brakes. If
>you have enough horsepower up front, you can break something easily.
>Differences in ratios must be very slight, with the front being the lower
>numerically - (IE 4.10 front 4.11 rear - 3.50 front 3.55 rear. Reason for
>this is that the front takes longer path in in a curve.
>
Not to argue moot points, since I agree with you as far as what ratios
should be in which end of the truck, but I always thought they put the
lower (numerically) gear in front for better stability in loose stuff ...
ie the front will drag the rear more than the rear pushes, helping keep the
front in front ... but maybe as you say this is most noticeable when you
are turning, so it will be obvious when you try to turn ...

Anyway, just wanted to see if there was a more detailed explanation of this ...

Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:51:55 -0500 (EST)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel

Hey again...

All this talk about cranky (no pun intended) starters has reminded
me of a post I've been meaning to make:

My '78 150 is missing quite a few teeth off its flywheel. At least, I
figure that's the case--when the starter misses/grinds, I can get the
vehicle to start by rotating the crank a bit and then trying again with
the key.

The local junque yarde has quite a few 300-I6 flywheels, and all of them
are missing teeth! Did Ford have problems with these puppies? One fellow
said I can get a new-in-the-box gear for the flywheel for something like
6 bucks, though I still have to pull the existing flywheel to get to it...

Which leads me to the bigger question--how tough a job is it to get the
flywheel out of there for someone without an engine hoist or tranny jack?
I _do_ have a basic floor jack and cinder blocks...

I'm assuming that I either have to pull the engine or the trans/transfer
case assembly. This is a manual trans, 4WD, btw.

Thanks,

- --sean
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 13:56:25 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Jim's belly

>Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 06:16:48 -0600
>From: "J Elliott"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - - 1968 F-250 steering column
>
>original:
>>I have a 1968 F-250 w/4 speed floor shift and power steering.****I would
>like to install a later model column w/tilt wheel.Anybody out there
>performed this swap?***Any information will be appreciated.
>
>I have no answer, but a similar question - I have been thinking about a
>tilt-wheel column for my 69 F-100 2w power steering. Anybody done this one
>to share some pointers? I woul actually like the column a couple of inches
>shorter than the original to get a little more room in the cab, the current
>wheel position is a bit close for my arms.
>
>Jim E.

Okay Jim, You are not being very truthful with the list members. Just
because you are
a little pudgy (like me) you think you can blame it on your arms and
steering wheel.......ha.........Tell you what, you pick up those valve
covers for me if they are nice and can be cleaned up to look REALLY great
and I won't tell anyone exactly how much you weigh! Email me off list to
discuss if convenient.

stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:17:43 -0600
From: sjacobi

fd9ns01.okladot.state.ok.us
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Seat belt kit for '65 F100

>Guys,

>I have just signed on to the list this week after picking up a '65 2wd
>business is to install some seat belts so I can take my 16 month old son
>with me while I'm running errands.

>I know some of the purists out there are probably cringing at the
>thought of tampering with the cab in this way; but for myself one of the
>biggest reasons I have for getting into an older pickup now is the time
>I spent with my Dad and his various pickups growing up.

>Could someone please point me in the right direction for a seat belt kit
>for this truck. I know they were offered in the '65 because they are
>referenced in my owner's manual; but I believe they only made it into
>the custom cab's, and this is a standard model. A 3-point setup would
>be ideal but I would be satisfied with lap belts if that's the only
>practical avenue.

>I've already gleamed a lot off this thread in just a few short days!!

>Thanks in advance for the help,

>Jim White
>65 F100 / 300ci S6 / 4spd
>white

micron.net /Boise, ID

Although many on this list will advocate going to the boneyard to pull a
set, I didn't find
any there that had webbing that wasn't in really bad shape. I got a set
for my '67 pickup
from Juliano's. This included three point harnesses for passenger and
driver and a lap
belt in the middle. The whole setup was about $200 which is pretty pricey,
but the hardware
included in the kit was top notch. They have a web site at
www.julianos.com. A friend of
mine ordered a similar set from G.E.M. for slightly less.

On my cab pillars there were two locations for the three point harnesses to
go. They were
plugged with rubber gromets. Simply snip these off and you are ready to
go.

Hope this helps-

Steve Jacobi

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 13:48:31 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear Sump Oil Pan

>From: Dan Lee
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear Sump Oil Pan
>
>I have another question about 'M' blocks. Will a
>PS pump and bracket from a 'M' block fit an
>early Cleveland.

Yo Dan:

Maybe, but probably not.

All the M-block PS brackets I have seen attach to the water pump bolts at
one end and to the front of the cylinder head at the other end. Since the
351C and M-block have different deck heights, the distance from the water
pump to the cylinder head would be different.

If you found an early enough M-block bracket (say 1971 to 1974, when 351C
and M-block production overlapped), it might have two holes for mounting to
either cylinder head. Maybe?

You might be able to adapt an M-block bracket by drilling a hole that lined
up w/ the tapped hole on the front of a Cleveland head.

The PS pump would work if it matched the mounting bracket for a Cleveland
and had the right pulley position to work w/ a drive belt from the
Cleveland crank. Maybe??

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:59:14 -0500
From: "Jay Grover"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel

Hi Sean,
I just replaced my clutch about two weeks ago.
My '73 F250 (2wd) had enough clearance that I didn't even have to jack the
truck up.
It helps a great deal if you have a floor jack with a large saddle (gives
you a lot more surface area to balance the transmission on).
Pulling the trans was a breeze. It helps if you have an extra set of hands
to balance it when you pull it out, though. Definately drain the trans
before pulling (believe me, I had no intention of letting it tip over!).
Putting it back in was kind of tricky (I had to do this by myself, major
bummer!). I ended up lashing some pieces of 2x4 to the bottom/sides trans
with one of those ratcheting tie-down straps (T-18 won't balance very nicely
when sitting flat). Extra hands would have really been useful during this
stage.
Getting main drive gear threaded through the throwout bearing (without
knocking it off the lever) and into the clutch requires patience and
detirmination.
The removable hump in the cab is a godsend. You can see everything from
above and get some bolts removed/installed from above.
All this leads to my question: Am I crazy or do I remember seeing a trans
adapter advertised somewhere for the large saddle floor jacks? I checked in
ALL of the stores (NAPA, Western Auto, etc), and none of them had one. I
don't change transmissions very often, but I think this would definately be
worth the price.
PS: Sean, if you want anymore gory details that I might be able to help
with, let me know. I don't want to bore everyone else with the minutia.

> Which leads me to the bigger question--how tough a job is it to get the
> flywheel out of there for someone without an engine hoist or tranny jack?
> I _do_ have a basic floor jack and cinder blocks...
>
> I'm assuming that I either have to pull the engine or the trans/transfer
> case assembly. This is a manual trans, 4WD, btw.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --sean
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:01:31 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AOD tranny for 400 engine

>From: "Brodie, Doug"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Various topics.
>
>various snips
>
>I'm also interested in getting some "longer legs"
>for a '79 F250 4X4. I can't decide whether I want
>to go with higher gears or try to find and adapt
>an AOD trany. The truck has a 400. Which of the
>later AOD tranys will bolt up to my '79 400? One
>that is behind a 351C/M? 460? Any information
>that anyone could supply would be appreciated.

Yo Doug:

The 351C uses a different (small block) bell housing bolt pattern, and it
was discontinued after the 1974 model year.

The 351M/400 were discontinued after the 1982 model year and neither was
ever equipped with an AOD tranny.

The 400 uses the same bell housing bolt pattern as the 460 big block. The
only AOD tranny Ford installed on the big block was the E4OD, which is an
electronic overdrive offspring of the C6. The E4OD requires an electronic
control module; it does not just work off engine vacuum and kickdown levers
like the old automatics. To install one in your truck would probably
require (at least) a different tranny mount/crossmember and new drive
shafts to accommodate the different length of the tranny.

Seems like I read somewhere recently that an aftermarket outfit was making
E4OD controllers for just your type of application (i.e., non-electronic
controlled engine).

Hope this helps.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 16:01:11 EST
From: FORDTRKNUT

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1976 Bed

I bought a bed from Desert Valley Auto Parts for $800.00 plus $400.00 for
shipping. They are located in Arizona and I live in New Jersey. The bed was
rustfree and hardly any dents too!!! It was worth every penny that I spent to
get it. I have a 1979 F-350 4x4 with dual gas tanks & passenger side toolbox.
They said that they had a 1976 dual tank & side cargo box. They sent me
pictures and it looked good....don't know if they still have it though???
Here's there web address!!! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dvap.com/index.html
Happy Hunting!!!! Wayne Grabley
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 15:07:18 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Need help !

Ugh, finally got my truck back on the day it snowed (great timing here
...). Drivin it around, comin off of stop signs/lights it seemed to have
even less torque than it normally does (360 4v). Then from a couple of
them it wouldn't rev at all, it just sort of sputtered for a minute, then
take off like nothing was really wrong.

This morning on the way to work it just died comin off of a stopsign like
that, and wouldn't start. Upon inspection the points were not doing so
well, so I hiked it back to the house ('bout a mile), grabbed the stang and
came on in to work. Over lunch I went back with a friend and put the new
points in (gapped, then use a dwell to set them), tried to start it, but
nothin .. it acted like it was trying a little, so I loosened the dist. and
moved it around until it finally ran on over half of the cylinders (5 or 6
at least).

I got it home and put it on the timing light ... it ran great at an idle
with 30 or 40 degrees advance (vacuum was hooked up, but I have less than
15 mm hg under "normal" conditions)... but pull it back under 10deg and
you'd swear it was going to die, not to mention NO power whatsoever.

This is a really worn 360 (hence my search for a 410 for those of you
who've been following along at home) that I would really like to last for
another month or so ... Anyway what do ya'll think it is anyway ?

Feel free to email me off the list too, I just really want to get this
thing so I can drive it again before the next round of snow hits ...

Thanks
Bill
wish

iastate.edu

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 16:08:59 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Calling All Quick-Fix experts!

Hey All-

Gonna' make this short and sweet hopefully- My buddy has a cracked exhaust
manifold on his 351m. I know we could probably remove it and weld it, but
I would like to know if there are any of those quick weld products
available that would withstand the heat of the exhaust manifold. I've used
JB-weld on it and it turned to goo, I used some stuff by permatex called
"cold-weld" and that stuff flaked off. Any suggestions or hints? I'm
fully aware that this is the wrong way to really solve a problem, but the
manifold bolts would probably break and he isn't willing to go through the
hassle of that happening.
Any help appreciated as always!

Tony Marino
tony

pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 15:17:11 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Calling All Quick-Fix experts!

>Gonna' make this short and sweet hopefully- My buddy has a cracked exhaust
>manifold on his 351m. I know we could probably remove it and weld it, but
>I would like to know if there are any of those quick weld products
>available that would withstand the heat of the exhaust manifold. I've used
>JB-weld on it and it turned to goo, I used some stuff by permatex called
>"cold-weld" and that stuff flaked off. Any suggestions or hints? I'm
>fully aware that this is the wrong way to really solve a problem, but the
>manifold bolts would probably break and he isn't willing to go through the
>hassle of that happening.

Hmmm...seems like Dad got some stuff from a local muffler shop that they
recommended for his rotted manifolds ( '57 Olds with original manifolds on
it ... talk about fun ... ) I don't remember the name of the stuff, but
you might check with some of the shops around you and see if they have any
suggestions ...

Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:38:59 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver

Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Water Pump, Thermosat, etc sealants?

Background:
'64 F100 CrewCab, 292 V8 Auto trans
Waterpump leaking.

I've got the old water pump off the truck, but
I had to remove the radiator to get the it off,
and the rad needs to have a bracket brazed back on.
Looks like it has been loose awhile.

I went ahead and removed the theromostat housing
to replace the Tstat while I'm there, just because.

I have the paper gaskets for the thermostat housing,
waterpump, and fitting on top of the Tstat housing.

The fitting on top of the Tstat housing is a small two bolt
flange with a 5/8" tube apparently press fit in place.
The Tstat housing has a similar tube fit in place.
I have new tubes to install in these locations.
I'll have to push out the old tubes and install the new.

I hadn't thought of it before (remember I'm new to
working on this part of my truck), but do any of these
need any sealant? If so, what kind is appropriate?
What about the thermostat itself?

Please cc pmail, as I'm on digest and would like to know
tonight before I start re-assembly tomorrow morning.

Should I install a radiator overflow tank for this engine?

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 17:03:31 -0700
From: Jim & Becky White
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Seat belt kit for '65 F100

Steve,

Thanks for the info on Julian's. I went to their site and the hardware looks
very nice. I will definately order their oversized mounting plates/brackets
regardless of whether I go with a new kit or something I salvage from a yard.
If you're going to wear the belts, you might as well be confident your not
going to pull the mounting nut & bolt right through the cab if you do get in
an accident.

Thanks,

Jim White
65 F100 / 300ci S6 / 4spd
white

micron.net /Boise, ID

>
> >first order of business is to install some seat belts so I can take my 16
> month old son
> >with me while I'm running errands.
>

> I got a set for my '67 pickup from Juliano's. This included three point
> harnesses for passenger and
> driver and a lap belt in the middle. The whole setup was about $200 which is
> pretty pricey, but the hardware included in the kit was top notch. They have
> a web site at www.julianos.com. A friend of mine ordered a similar set from
> G.E.M. for slightly less.
>

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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 1956 13:27:39 +0000
From: mdennis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Brake Bleeding

I was bleeding the brakes on my 79 F150 4x4 this afternoon. They are a
little spongy and never seemed quite right, needing more pressure than I
thought was typical. I wanted to r eplace the brake fluid and so I
started with the front drivers side as per the directions on my new
vacuum bleeder. I was surprised that the large reservoir in the master
cylinder was the one being drained. I thought I read somewhere, or
maybe I just assumed, the large reservoir was for the rear wheels since
there seems to be a need for more volume to the rear. I looked in my
Chilton manual however it didn't explain this and the picture was of
poor quality. A look at the master cylinder does seem to indicate it
may have been replaced at some point since the brake lines had some very
"unfactory" bends. Could someone email me with information of whether
this is correct as is or do I need to change the lines on the master
cylinder. I would greatly appreciate it.
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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 20:39:54 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79 list split vote

Forwarded for: "tboy's mail"

Ken,
so one vote makes a difference eh????
I s*bscribe to the digest and it's alot of stuff to wade through when all
I'm really looking for is stuff related to my 66 f100 longbed....
maybe someday the list will split.... until then I'll put my wading boots
back on...
Tommy
p.s. this is a great list, don't get me wrong...

>> Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 09:52:14 -0500
>> From: Ken Payne
>> Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79-list split
>>
>> If you haven't voted on the 61-79 list split, today is the
>> last day to do so. If you think your vote doesn't count,
>> think again. One vote **can** make a difference. As of
>> 5 minutes ago:
>>
>> In favor of split: 70
>> Against: 71
>> Don't care: 11
>>
>> This is going to be a close one..... The voting center
>> is linked off the main page on the web site.
>>
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com/
>>
>> Ken Payne
>> Admin
>> (PS. Don't think about cheating on the vote. I'm going
>> to remove such votes.)
>_________________________________________________________

>Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 22:52:22 -0500
>From: Ken Payne
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79 list split vote
>
>The vote for splitting the 61-79 list into two groups has expired.
>The split won by 1 vote. However, this is too close (1%) for me
>to justify splitting it up. If we can get 4-5% in a future vote,
I'll split the list. Personally I'm in favor of splitting it now,
>but its just too close of a vote. If the amount of mail is a
>problem, switch to digest mode.
>
>Ken Payne
>CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>http://www.ford-trucks.com
>

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Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 20:47:56 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79 list split vote

At 08:39 PM 11/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Forwarded for: "tboy's mail"
>
>Ken,
>so one vote makes a difference eh????
>I s*bscribe to the digest and it's alot of stuff to wade through when all
>I'm really looking for is stuff related to my 66 f100 longbed....
>maybe someday the list will split.... until then I'll put my wading boots
>back on...
> Tommy
>p.s. this is a great list, don't get me wrong...
>

FYI, there were cheaters on this vote. Since my IP logs don't give me
an accurate way to remove cheats, I couldn't let such a close margin
pass.

Why don't you just say I'm full of it instead of just implying it? I
didn't see you volunteer to help out around here so I really don't
want to hear you whine about it.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 18:16:42 -0800
From: "jeffd"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel

Harbor Freight sells a trans adapter for floor jacks, not the greatest
quality but worked for me

- ----------
> From: Jay Grover
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel
> Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:59 PM
>
> Hi Sean,
> I just replaced my clutch about two weeks ago.
> My '73 F250 (2wd) had enough clearance that I didn't even have to jack
the
> truck up.
> It helps a great deal if you have a floor jack with a large saddle (gives
> you a lot more surface area to balance the transmission on).
> Pulling the trans was a breeze. It helps if you have an extra set of
hands
> to balance it when you pull it out, though. Definately drain the trans
> before pulling (believe me, I had no intention of letting it tip over!).
> Putting it back in was kind of tricky (I had to do this by myself, major
> bummer!). I ended up lashing some pieces of 2x4 to the bottom/sides
trans
> with one of those ratcheting tie-down straps (T-18 won't balance very
nicely
> when sitting flat). Extra hands would have really been useful during
this
> stage.
> Getting main drive gear threaded through the throwout bearing (without
> knocking it off the lever) and into the clutch requires patience and
> detirmination.
> The removable hump in the cab is a godsend. You can see everything from
> above and get some bolts removed/installed from above.
> All this leads to my question: Am I crazy or do I remember seeing a
trans
> adapter advertised somewhere for the large saddle floor jacks? I checked
in
> ALL of the stores (NAPA, Western Auto, etc), and none of them had one. I
> don't change transmissions very often, but I think this would definately
be
> worth the price.
> PS: Sean, if you want anymore gory details that I might be able to help
> with, let me know. I don't want to bore everyone else with the minutia.
>
> > Which leads me to the bigger question--how tough a job is it to get the
> > flywheel out of there for someone without an engine hoist or tranny
jack?
> > I _do_ have a basic floor jack and cinder blocks...
> >
> > I'm assuming that I either have to pull the engine or the
trans/transfer
> > case assembly. This is a manual trans, 4WD, btw.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --sean
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 18:21:33 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79 list split vote

>Why don't you just say I'm full of it instead of just implying it? I
>didn't see you volunteer to help out around here so I really don't
>want to hear you whine about it.

Bravo Ken! Nothing against Tommy's opinion on a list split but I
believe it about time you tell it like it is. You pay for this list and
run it the way you see fit. I for one am thankful you let us have an
input on these matters and find it ungrateful when people whine when the
decision doesn't go their way. Even when it's me whining!

Keep up the good work bro!

Deacon
deconblu

earthlink.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/

Hey Deacon,

Good to have you back here. Hows the truck doing? Are you
still doing the model car/truck thing?

I have a question for you.... I'm running my truck with an
electric fan and the normal fan. I recall that you are (or
were) running an electric setup all by itself. Now that
some time has passed, how has it held up? If you haven't
been stranded by it, I'll do the same to my 67.

Ken

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 20:50:45 -0600
From: Shawn Donkin
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Block Casting # help!

Actually it's for a 351m. Thats the engine i bought that i assumed was the same as
the one in my truck before i figured out it was a cleveland instead of an 'M'
block. So i'm not sure if i need to change the engine mount towers and engine
mounts
to accomidate the 351m. I definitely dont feel like putting the 351c back together
since it's quite tired and leaky.

Shawn Donkin
'68 F100 351c/c4 -- Soon to be 351m/c6 hopefully if all goes well :)

William S Hart wrote:

> At 09:51 AM 11/9/98 , you wrote:
> >Actually, they want my c4 with a 7 mo rebuild and & $75 .. i didn't think that
> >was a worthy trade. Currently looking to find myself a c6
> >
> >Shawn
> >
> If it was even up trading, with neither tranny having been rebuilt recently
> I'd have had to think about it, but there are so many more parts available
> for the C4, that the question is gone when the money is involved (for me
> anyway) ...
>
> Good luck with the C6, you needed it for a small block right ? Those are a
> little tough to come by from what I've heard ...
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> Bill
>
> Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 19:31:41 -0800
From: "pat green"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: FE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel

does harbor freight have a web sight?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list

ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of jeffd
> Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 6:17 PM
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel
>
>
> Harbor Freight sells a trans adapter for floor jacks, not the greatest
> quality but worked for me
>
> ----------
> > From: Jay Grover
> > To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Starter and Flywheel
> > Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:59 PM
> >
> > Hi Sean,
> > I just replaced my clutch about two weeks ago.
> > My '73 F250 (2wd) had enough clearance that I didn't even have to jack
> the
> > truck up.
> > It helps a great deal if you have a floor jack with a large
> saddle (gives
> > you a lot more surface area to balance the transmission on).
> > Pulling the trans was a breeze. It helps if you have an extra set of
> hands
> > to balance it when you pull it out, though. Definately drain the trans
> > before pulling (believe me, I had no intention of letting it tip over!).
> > Putting it back in was kind of tricky (I had to do this by myself, major
> > bummer!). I ended up lashing some pieces of 2x4 to the bottom/sides
> trans
> > with one of those ratcheting tie-down straps (T-18 won't balance very
> nicely
> > when sitting flat). Extra hands would have really been useful during
> this
> > stage.
> > Getting main drive gear threaded through the throwout bearing (without
> > knocking it off the lever) and into the clutch requires patience and
> > detirmination.
> > The removable hump in the cab is a godsend. You can see everything from
> > above and get some bolts removed/installed from above.
> > All this leads to my question: Am I crazy or do I remember seeing a
> trans
> > adapter advertised somewhere for the large saddle floor jacks?
> I checked
> in
> > ALL of the stores (NAPA, Western Auto, etc), and none of them
> had one. I
> > don't change transmissions very often, but I think this would definately
> be
> > worth the price.
> > PS: Sean, if you want anymore gory details that I might be able to help
> > with, let me know. I don't want to bore everyone else with the minutia.
> >
> > > Which leads me to the bigger question--how tough a job is it
> to get the
> > > flywheel out of there for someone without an engine hoist or tranny
> jack?
> > > I _do_ have a basic floor jack and cinder blocks...
> > >
> > > I'm assuming that I either have to pull the engine or the
> trans/transfer
> > > case assembly. This is a manual trans, 4WD, btw.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > --sean
> > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> > >
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 19:52:37 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Electric fans

From: Ken Payne
>Good to have you back here. Hows the truck doing? Are you
>still doing the model car/truck thing?

Thanks bro, it's good to be back. The trucks doing great now that I've
got the power steering pump to quit leaking. The RC truck is a kick in
the butt. It runs into too much money though. :[

>I have a question for you.... I'm running my truck with an
>electric fan and the normal fan. I recall that you are (or....

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