61-79-list-digest Saturday, November 7 1998 Volume 02 : Number 513



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - - 1968 F-250 steering column
Re: FTE 61-79 - toe-in -
RE: FTE 61-79 - - 1966 F-100 steering column
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79-list split
FTE 61-79 - 390/410 Help
FTE 61-79 - Frame measurements
FTE 61-79 - Re: Tilt steering transplant
FTE 61-79 - Various topics.
FTE 61-79 - 360/390
FTE 61-79 - pinion seal
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390
Re: FTE 61-79 - pinion seal
FTE 61-79 - Re: pinion seal
FTE 61-79 - Re: 360/390
FTE 61-79 - Various topics.
FTE 61-79 - Re: Spot Weld Drawing
FTE 61-79 - shorty headers
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390/410 Help
FTE 61-79 - need a catalog
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390/410 help
FTE 61-79 - Bush Pilot
FTE 61-79 - He-Man Header Haters Club...Reprise
FTE 61-79 - 390 Help
FTE 61-79 - 410 Query
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vent windows

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 06:16:48 -0600
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - - 1968 F-250 steering column

original:
>I have a 1968 F-250 w/4 speed floor shift and power steering.****I would
like to install a later model column w/tilt wheel.Anybody out there
performed this swap?***Any information will be appreciated.

I have no answer, but a similar question - I have been thinking about a
tilt-wheel column for my 69 F-100 2w power steering. Anybody done this one
to share some pointers? I woul actually like the column a couple of inches
shorter than the original to get a little more room in the cab, the current
wheel position is a bit close for my arms.

Jim E.



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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 08:22:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - toe-in -

From: "b hp"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - toe-in -
Date sent: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 09:38:02 PDT

> recently replaced the fiber steering washer and tie rods. I then set the
> toe-in to 3/8 does anyone have the correct # for the toe-in setting.

Ok, gang, excuse me if I'm attacking a dead horse here, these posts are
pretty old but I don't remember seeing answers to them so here goes:

Toe should be nearly zero on a 4wd but still positive as in a 2wd, that is front
of tires closer than back but only by about 1/32 - 1/8" at the most. 3/8 is
way too much. Camber is a wide spec on fords but should be kept to a
minimum too if you want your tires to hold up. Caster is pretty forgiving but
can cause what I call "head shake" if too severe. 4 wheelers run into this
when they get too caried away with "C" bushing caster adjustments.

Remember that toe only trys to make the tires exactly parallel under way so is
there to take up any mush or slack in the steering linkage. Full time front
wheel drive vehicles have "toe out" rather than "in" for this reason. The
older and more beat up your linkage is the more toe you should use but you
still have to be carefull not to get carried away. Toe is probably the hardest
aspect on tire wear with camber running a close second. When the linkage is
loose enough to require more than normal toe to correct the tires when under
way you should repair it.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 08:55:53 -0500
From: "Kenny Realph"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - - 1966 F-100 steering column

original:
>I have a 1968 F-250 w/4 speed floor shift and power steering.****I would
>erformed this swap?***Any information will be appreciated.

>I have no answer, but a similar question - I have been thinking about a
>tilt-wheel column for my 69 F-100 2w power steering. Anybody done this one
>to share some pointers? I woul actually like the column a couple of inches
>shorter than the original to get a little more room in the cab, the current
>wheel position is a bit close for my arms.

>Jim E.

I have no answer either, but along the same train of thought I know I've
seen some old trucks in magazines with Cadilac steering columns (tilt, and
telescoping). Don't know how hard it is to install, but I would be willing
to try on my truck if anyone would like to donate one to me!!! One place
that might be worth the trouble of calling would be SoCal Pickups, their ad
says They will help you see what you see in it. They are in all the Truck
Mags.


Kenny Realph
1966 F100 240I 1v
E-Mail: krealph hotmail.com


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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 09:52:14 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 61-79-list split

If you haven't voted on the 61-79 list split, today is the
last day to do so. If you think your vote doesn't count,
think again. One vote **can** make a difference. As of
5 minutes ago:

In favor of split: 70
Against: 71
Don't care: 11

This is going to be a close one..... The voting center
is linked off the main page on the web site.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/

Ken Payne
Admin
(PS. Don't think about cheating on the vote. I'm going
to remove such votes.)



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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 09:55:17 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390/410 Help

The 410 piston's pin bore is .100 higher on the piston, and uses the
same rod length as the 390. These pistons should be available in cast,
forged might be a problem to find. The 410 is externally balanced, so
the flywheel and damper have to be weighted for this. Azie suggested
once that you can borrow someone else's 410 flexplate or flywheel and
have a 390 one balanced to the same spec. It sounds like a great idea,
and I suspect that a 410 damper is still available from Ford.

- -> >Can't help you with most of this ... I also have a 360 and am
looking to
> >upgrade. I found a running one (burning oil though) for $150, and I'm
> >thinkin of building it to a 410 or 390, anyone help me out with what parts
> >I need for that ? They're all the same bore, and the local parts shop
> said
> >a 410 and 390 listed the same pistons ... true ? false ? anyone ?
>
>
> My understanding is that the 410 is a 390 with the 428 crank/stroke. The
> bore should be the same, but the rods would be different. I'm sure that
> there's someone who knows more about this than I do, since this is where I
> got my information...
- -
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 12:39:00 -0500
From: Earl Capps
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Frame measurements

I am looking for the measurements of a mid '70s frame that will handle a
429/460 engine and an 8ft bed.
Does anyone have this info handy or do you know where I could get it?
... short of getting a shop manual for that year.

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 10:00:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Tilt steering transplant

Jim wrote:
> Mike wrote::
> >I have a 1968 F-250 w/4 speed floor shift and power steering.****I would
> like to install a later model column w/tilt wheel.Anybody out there
> performed this swap?***Any information will be appreciated.
>
> I have no answer, but a similar question - I have been thinking about a
> tilt-wheel column for my 69 F-100 2w power steering. Anybody done this one
> to share some pointers? I woul actually like the column a couple of inches

Jim, Mike - I think that Tom (Hogan?) wrote a piece on doing a swap
like this, you may want to try digging through the archives. Or, wait
until Tom gets settled in Maine and re-subscribes.

Jim, I have a D*ts*n question for you, If you could e-mail me off
list I would appreciate it.

Pat Brown or
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 12:10:43 -0800
From: "Brodie, Doug"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Various topics.

I'm in digest so some of this may be very late.

RE: From OX "Problem is Dana 60's are way to cheap (60$) in my area. Most
come with
4.10 gears and are in good shape (don't even need new bearings)."

Hey OX. What about Dana 60s for the front? Are there any around your area
and if there are how cheap (expensive) are they? I'm looking for one, maybe
two, with disc brakes. If I have a choice of gears I'd prefer 3.5s.

RE: Finger in plug wire - I think the guy signed off with Simper Fi - A
Marine(?) wouldn't care about such trivial maters as voltage or current.

RE: Shunt - Isn't there someone out there who makes a variable resistor? I
vaguely recall something about that one time. I think the brand was
Clarostat or something like that. Could this be a possible solution?

Hey Mr. Jacobi!!
Tell us about your truck and headers. What truck/motor do you have and what
type/brand are the headers?

List
I'm needing some advise concerning the vent(wing?) windows on my '79. The
right side one doesn't seal good due to what looks like a worn out latch
thingy. I can wedge a nickel in under it and it quits making so much wind
noise going down the road. What is the best fix for this? Can I
get/replace the latch or the part that it fits through? Or would I be better
off just looking for a whole replacement window?

I'm also interested in getting some "longer legs" for a '79 F250 4X4. I
can't decide whether I want to go with higher gears or try to find and
adapt an AOD trany. The truck has a 400. Which of the later AOD tranys
will bolt up to my '79 400? One that is behind a 351C/M? 460? Any
information that anyone could supply would be appreciated.

Hope I don't sound too much like a dummy. Thanks to everyone on the list,
I've learned a lot of stuff I can use in the near future. This is a great
site!!! Keep up the good work!!!!

Doug Brodie
Midland, Texas
Doug_Brodie OXY.com
'79 F250 4X4 Supercab 400 C6 (needs a name!! {:~)


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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:17:50 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360/390

You guys contemplating making a 410 from one of the lesser displacement
FE's (360/390)need to know that the pistons are the same diameter, but not
the same P/N. the rods are the same (I think) therefore the wrist pin
location in the piston has to be in a different location to keep from
pushiong the piston out the top of the block and into the
head!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is fairly easy to make the 410, but there has to be some precautions in
piston selection.

Yo Marko ! ! ! ! You just did this !! Clue these guys in.as it is
still fresh in your young memory...

Azie
Ardmore, Al


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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:24:36 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pinion seal

Cannondale writes: >>Do they make a repair sleve that could go over it
like for a dampaner? I guess that would fix it if there is such thing??
:)

Why not just put a new pinion seal in it - Remove the yoke and there it is.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 14:34:24 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390

>You guys contemplating making a 410 from one of the lesser displacement
>FE's (360/390)need to know that the pistons are the same diameter, but not
>the same P/N. the rods are the same (I think) therefore the wrist pin
>location in the piston has to be in a different location to keep from
>pushiong the piston out the top of the block and into the
>head!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
Azie, thanks for the reminder, but don't the rods have to be a different
length for all three engines ? Otherwise wouldn't the skirt hit at the
bottom on some engines an the piston fly out the top on others? Maybe I'm
just off here though ... I know the guy at the parts store was looking at
the book and it said that the pistons were the same for the 410 and 390 ...
and if you change the rod this could be true right ? If not, guess I'm not
gettin the pistons from them huh ? Am I missing something here (besides an
engine to start with) ?


>It is fairly easy to make the 410, but there has to be some precautions in
>piston selection.
>
This is exactly what I want to know and am most worried about. I've never
done much with the bottom of an engine (took one apart on a tractor once
for a lab, but that was just one, there were others to look at the time ...


>Yo Marko ! ! ! ! You just did this !! Clue these guys in.as it is
>still fresh in your young memory...
>


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 12:54:00 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - pinion seal

am14 chrysler.com wrote:

> Cannondale writes: >>Do they make a repair sleve that could go over it
> like for a dampaner? I guess that would fix it if there is such thing??
> :)
>
> Why not just put a new pinion seal in it - Remove the yoke and there it is.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.

What I think he is saying is the the yoke is groved where the sealing surface
is so that it is chewing up the new seals. There should be a speedy sleve
(sp?) that you could use. JB weld the groved surface first and then slip the
sleve on. Better yet pick up a new yoke.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon
ICQ# 19575234

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 13:06:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: pinion seal

Azie wrote:
> Cannondale writes: >>Do they make a repair sleve that could go over it
> like for a dampaner? I guess that would fix it if there is such thing??
> :)
>
> Why not just put a new pinion seal in it - Remove the yoke and there it is.
>

Cannondale was refering to my post about placing sleeves on a shaft to
repair damage to the seal surface. I had a friend fix a leaky timing
cover on a t*y*t* truck, rather than replace the damper at over $120.
A few weeks ago, I had a sleeve placed on the crankshaft of my daughter's
280ZX, the one-piece rear main seal had worn a groove in the crank.

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 13:12:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 360/390

Azie wrote:

> You guys contemplating making a 410 from one of the lesser displacement
> FE's (360/390)need to know that the pistons are the same diameter, but not
> the same P/N. the rods are the same (I think) therefore the wrist pin
> location in the piston has to be in a different location to keep from
> pushiong the piston out the top of the block and into the
> head!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> It is fairly easy to make the 410, but there has to be some precautions in
> piston selection.
>
> Yo Marko ! ! ! ! You just did this !! Clue these guys in.as it is
> still fresh in your young memory...
>

Marko cheated, he found a Marauder complete with 410 :-). But Azie,
I think your memory is better than mine, I kind of remember him
discussing his piston selection here, a long time ago. Speaking
of Marko, where is he? And Stu, for that matter. Deacon, what have
you done to them ?

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:52:11 -0600
From: sjacobi fd9ns01.okladot.state.ok.us
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Various topics.

Doug Brodie
Midland, Texas
Doug_Brodie OXY.com
'79 F250 4X4 Supercab 400 C6 (needs a name!! {:~)

wrote:

>>Hey Mr. Jacobi!!
>>Tell us about your truck and headers. What truck/motor do you have and
what
>>type/brand are the headers?

I bought the truck with the mods already done: It's a '67 Camper Special
with a 460 and C-6 tranny. The previous owner says the engine came out of
a '77.
The best I can tell about the headers are that a friend claims they are
Hookers. All I know is that they are very well built. The mounting plate
steel where it bolts to the head is very thick. The only bad thing about
them are that they hang fairly low, although with 3" pipes and the
necessity of having to route the exhaust to the passenger side due to the
aux gas tank, somethings going to hang. The starter came out easily after
I found that the way to get it out was to take the front of the starter up,
dropping the drive gear end down.

Hope this helps.

Steve Jacobi





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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 02:02:51 -0800
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Spot Weld Drawing

> Steve Delanty wrote:
> I sat up for a while and drew up a picture of the lever that
> bent in my starter motor and where I welded it to make it stronger.
> If anybody cares, go here to see it:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/starterfix

Nice job, Steve. Looks like you took some time drawing it, and it looks real professional, not to mention the fact that it makes your previous discussion real easy to understand.

Thanks for lending comprendo.

- -Marv-

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 20:09:12 EST
From: NUTCH11 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - shorty headers

hi

someone on the list was looking for shorty headers for a truck, i can't recall
what motor, i think 360-390. there is a place called ford powertrain
applications
in wash state phone 253-848-9503. they sell a shorty header for fe motors.
i've never seen their work , but they do make them for some applications.
thanks

john
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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 21:00:59 -0500
From: "The Freeman Family"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390/410 Help

Let me get this straight. Even though the bore is the same as the 390
piston the 410 piston has a higher pin bore. I assume that means that true
410 rods are .100 longer to compensate for the loss of compression. Which
means that the 390 rod/piston combo will work but to get the benefit of the
added torque that the 410 delivers by having a longer rod (I believe Steve
taught me that one), you would need to use the 410 rods/pinstons. That
means true 410 rods with 390 pistons could be disasterous by .100 and 390
rods with 410 pistons would mean a loss of desired compression.

These are all guesses based on what I've read. Has anyone measured the rod
length of the 390 and 410? How do they compare?

Azie makes a good point if the above is true in making a good piston/rod
selection.

I'm intrested in hearing more. I have a 360 sitting on the bench waiting
for me. This spring I'd like to tell you my 410 is sitting in my truck
waiting on me ;-)
- -----Original Message-----
From: William L. Ballinger
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 11:53 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390/410 Help


>The 410 piston's pin bore is .100 higher on the piston, and uses the
>same rod length as the 390. These pistons should be available in cast,
>forged might be a problem to find. The 410 is externally balanced, so
>the flywheel and damper have to be weighted for this. Azie suggested
>once that you can borrow someone else's 410 flexplate or flywheel and
>have a 390 one balanced to the same spec. It sounds like a great idea,
>and I suspect that a 410 damper is still available from Ford.
>
>-> >Can't help you with most of this ... I also have a 360 and am
>looking to
>> >upgrade. I found a running one (burning oil though) for $150, and I'm
>> >thinkin of building it to a 410 or 390, anyone help me out with what
parts
>> >I need for that ? They're all the same bore, and the local parts shop
>> said
>> >a 410 and 390 listed the same pistons ... true ? false ? anyone ?
>>
>>
>> My understanding is that the 410 is a 390 with the 428 crank/stroke. The
>> bore should be the same, but the rods would be different. I'm sure that
>> there's someone who knows more about this than I do, since this is where
I
>> got my information...
>-
>Come on over to my Back Porch
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
>Ballinger
>ballingr ldd.net
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>


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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 19:12:01 -0800
From: Steve
Subject: FTE 61-79 - need a catalog

I have a 71 F250 that I am embarking on a long and expensive
restoration. I need side molding and logo pieces(Camper Special) to put
on after a fresh paint job. I also need 2 more hub caps, an antenae and
some interior pieces like light covers and switches etc.
Is there a catalog that has this stuff for my 71 Ford??????/

Love Big Blue

Steve

Marv Miller wrote:
>
> > Steve Delanty wrote:
> > I sat up for a while and drew up a picture of the lever that
> > bent in my starter motor and where I welded it to make it stronger.
> > If anybody cares, go here to see it:
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/starterfix
>
> Nice job, Steve. Looks like you took some time drawing it, and it looks real professional, not to mention the fact that it makes your previous discussion real easy to understand.
>
> Thanks for lending comprendo.
>
> -Marv-
>
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Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 00:53:31 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390/410 help

I have read with interest your discussions in this area, as I had a 1967 Park
Lane in the early 70's. I exchanged the 410 for a 1970 429 with 10.5
compression, the 429 ran circles around the 410. Go to
wrljet.com/engines/fe.html, have seen this web site referenced by FTE members
in the past, and you will find a matrix showing the components that make up
the various FE engines and some that Ford never made. Additionally there is
discussion of the engines. This is what it states about the crank, "410 and
428 engines are externally balanced. Due to different piston weights, there
are actually four different 428 crankshafts. One used for normal 428, 428
Police Interceptor, and 428 CJ before 12/26/69. One for 428 CJ after that
date, and two for 428 Super Cobra Jet before and after that date. All other FE
engines utilize an internally balanced crankshaft. High performance 390 and
406 engines have grooved main bearing journals for improved oiling." Good
Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick, Wa 1972 F250 4x4 Hi-Boy
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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 23:32:56 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bush Pilot

I would tend to stay with what the trans came with, one or the other, as
there may be a subtle difference in how the imput shaft is machined and
tempered. I don't know this to be true, but I suspect that it could be
why that they aren't shown in the interchange manual at my local library
as directly interchangable.

> The point of a bearing instead of a bushing is for performace
> applications to help release drag on the pilot end of the input shaft to
> improve shifting performance. This is seldom a consideration for the way
> most of us use trucks. Now, in a D****n *-car (which we do not talk about),
> which is frequently driven, ahem, enthusiastically, it can be of some
> debatable benefit, and, yes, I will use a bearing. At a cost differential
> of
> about $2 compared to a bushing, I figure, 'what the heck'.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 00:17:31 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - He-Man Header Haters Club...Reprise

Saving money and convenience of service is an important consideration.
Most trucks won't be revved high enough to make a difference.

As I said before, on an FE, above 3500 rpms headers really make a lot
more power. I'd bet more like 30 to 40 hp, if you're cammed and carbed
(and have good enough oiling) to go up to 5500-6000 rpms. From a dyno
test article I read quite a few years back in magazine testing Hooker
headers, a GT 390 (built to what would have been factory rated at 330 hp
was capable of 370 hp and 415 lbs. ft of torque. Those numbers impressed
me, since the GT is a very mild engine. The hp band was relatively flat
to almost 6000. (they scattered it on the dyno, from oiling trouble)
Most all FE headers copy the Hooker design. As I said before, it
depends on your gearing and how hard you drive it. My 4.56's eat up
rpms pretty quickly.

I've taken mine out a few times to see what all of my piston noise is
worth, and that engine will flat hump all the way to 6000 rpms. After I
get my '65 352 heads on it will probably get up around that test
engine's territory. Or I'll scatter it too.

Has anyone got an oil restrictor kit they want to sell that I can put in
when I swap my heads?

As much as I hate headers, it's hard to go back.

> Oh yeah, money. They *start* at $750. Quite the chunk of change. For me it
> came down to the horsepower per dollar. I figured 10-15 HP for $750 and put
> stock manifolds on my truck.
- --
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 01:08:37 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 Help

People put 4 bbl intakes on 360's so you can't really go by that.
You'll have to measure the stroke to be sure. That's tough with the
heads on, but you can use a piece of dowel and mark it at TDC and BDC
and measure between the marks. There's 1/4 inch difference in stroke.

The most desirable blocks are '65-'70 passenger car blocks. These bores
are TOUGH. I've seen them with over 100,000 miles and still not need
boring. (I'd replace the pistons even if I didn't bore) These cranks are
also the best of the breed. You can also use the factory replacement
cast piston made for the regular fuel version and get 9.5 to 1
compression out of it. The truck engines of this vintage (up to '72)
are good too if you can find one that hasn't been pulling a bull-dozer
around for a living. Later blocks are a little more problematic.
Quality control was a little off, and some of them gave trouble. I
don't think they had as much nickel in them either. Earlier pre-'65
blocks don't fit the later style mounts.

The best bread and butter heads are the on the '61 to '65 352/390, they
are a lot like a 428CJ head in many functional aspects. The '61 solid
lifter 375 hp 390 High Performance used these heads with some small
valve bowl detail differences. (easily duplicated with a dremel tool I'm
sure if you had some detailed pictures of a set) In '66 the exhaust
port was recontoured into a less effecient lower exiting shape. The
next best are the '66-'70 heads. There were two combustion chamber
designs, a squared off one like the '61-65 heads and the 428CJ, and a
rounded cornered one. I've yet to figure out why there are two designs,
because I've seen both on everything, regular fuel or premium. car or
truck. I've even seen them mixed on the same engine, a '74 truck
engine.

If you want to stay with an iron intake, the '65 T-bird intake, or the
'66-'70 Galaxie intakes are good. (but very heavy) I can't see much
differece between the different years intakes, but these are considered
by many to be the best.

I'm not sure when they stopped making them, but I think the 390 stopped
in cars in '70, and trucks in '74. The 360 I believe survived into
early '77, but I'm not absolutely certain.




> I have a 69 Ford F-100 truck with a 360 motor. I am looking for a 390
> motor to replace it with. I found a couple and the people that have them
> but they don't seem to know if they are really a 390 or 360 motor. They
> are basing there knowledge on what the manifolds looks like and hay its got
> a 4 barrel intake so it's got to be a 390 because 360's didn't come out
> with 4 barrel intakes. Can someone tell me if there is anyway to tell the
> difference between the two motors without tarring it down? Also, what year
> model did Ford stop making 390 motors. One more thing, Can you tell the
> difference between a HP 390 and stock 390?
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 01:13:18 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 410 Query

Whereabouts is it? I live in Southeast Missouri.

> Where do you live and how much would you pay for a 66 Parklane with what
> looks like a very good ( no smoke, etc.) 401 complete with tranny, etc.
> Actually the car is almost too good to part out...
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
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