61-79-list-digest Wednesday, November 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 510



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Lifter noise
Re: FTE 61-79 - I got a plug wire in hand, and I'm goi
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: "Shunt" wire? Tech Artical
FTE 61-79 - Locker or not to locker?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Gears sticking
Re: FTE 61-79 - The He-Man Header Haters Club
Re: FTE 61-79 - The He-Man Header Haters Club
Re: FTE 61-79 - spark plug test
FTE 61-79 - exhaust manifold
FTE 61-79 - He-man Header Haters
FTE 61-79 - Replacing the pickup.
FTE 61-79 - Re: Bent Starter Forks
Re: FTE 61-79 - 430
Re: FTE 61-79 - 430
Re: FTE 61-79 - 430
FTE 61-79 - Solutions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Locker or not to locker?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 engine swap?
FTE 61-79 - Start Me Up...
FTE 61-79 - Baby, what a lovely grille you got....
Re: FTE 61-79 - Gears sticking

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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:34:47 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Lifter noise

Sounds like a sticking or worn out lifter (bleeding down)to me.

- -> When I now start the engine, it will run smooth for a random
amount
> of (short) time (15-30 seconds) then it makes a LOUD
> CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK (about 5-10 times) then will pause
> for a few seconds and do it again. I left the truck at a friends
> house (where I was when this happened) so I can trailer it home.
- -
Come on over to my Back Porch
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Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:31:55 +0100
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I got a plug wire in hand, and I'm goi

Sorry I answered this post.... it got out of hand...... far, far out of
hand.

I will explain to the original poster rather to the list.....


Sorry again...


Bill Brox





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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:57:23 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: "Shunt" wire? Tech Artical

>> Wayne wrote:
>> I have searched the archives to no avail about the "shunt wire" to get the
>> AMP
>> guage to work on my 1979 Bronco. I really would like to know what my
>> alternator is doing using the stock gauges. If possible.....could someone


O.K, I guess it's time to do the shunt math again.
I wish I'd saved all the posts from the last time we went thru this...

The problem with the stock gauge is that the stock shunt wire has too
low of a resistance, so the gauge barely moves unless LOTS of current
is flowing.

The gauge itself has an internal resistance of about 0.166 ohms, and
takes about 1.5 amps to drive it to full scale.

In order for the gauge to read full scale at 50 amps, you'll need a
shunt resistance of 0.00515 ohms.
#8 stranded copper wire has a resistance of about 0.0006528 ohms per foot,
so 8 feet of #8 wire would have about the correct resistance for the
shunt. Remember that all the charging current goes thru the shunt, so
you want to make sure that the wire is nicely routed so it can't get in
any trouble and cause a fire under the dash.

If I was going to modify the shunt on the stock gauge, I'd probably
wrap the shunt wire around something to make a nice compact coil out
of it and mount it on the firewall in the engine compartment to keep
it out from under the dash. Then I would extend the wires on the gauge
so they could connect to the shunt in the engine compartment. That
keeps the high current stuff out from under the dash.

If you have to use 6 feet of #14 wire to connect the gauge to the shunt,
then that adds .0157 ohms of resistance to the gauge circuit, (#14 stranded
copper wire has a resistance of 0.002624 ohms/foot) which means the shunt
value would actually need to be increased to .00564 ohms, or about 8.7 feet
of #8 stranded copper wire to make it read full scale at 50 amps...
Since all the resistances involved are very low, you need to be sure that
all connections from the gauge to the shunt are perfect. Solder them, don't
use crimp connectors to connect them.

It would have been nice if Ford would have just done it correctly from
the factory...


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to
recognize a mistake when you make it again.
-- F. P. Jones


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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 19:58:02 -0500
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Locker or not to locker?

Hi guys.

Well I just took the rear diff out today, and with a couple of days all that
will be left is a bare bones frame. Anyway right now I have "open" or
conventional diffs both front and rear. (31 inch GSA Goodyear tires, 3.5
ratio Ford nine inch rear, 3.5 ratio Dana 44 (reverse) front) I figure
since I am here anyway I would change the gear ratio to 3.73 and put either
Lockers, (Gearless locker in the front), or trak-lock components in.

My big question is - what is recommended. I like to do serious 4-wheeling
but the Bronco has to be "streetable" also. Maybe a locker in the rear, and
a "trak" in the front? Etc....

Any input would be appreciated.

Alternative 2.

Just swap out both front and rear for Dana 60's.

Note I also need to change the Carrier housing as the one on the diff is
pretty badly corroded. Any one that I should be looking for? (1979 Ford
Bronco.)

Thanks in advance,

"Paul"



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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:05:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Donald Mason
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Gears sticking

Hay Jim I had the same problim with my '66 Mustang and I might be
wrong but I only dismised it as "my R.P.M.s are to high for 2nd gear.
I hope I'm not wrong but I might be

Donny
you wrote
- ---Jim Pitcock wrote:
>
> Have lately been having problems trying to shift from 1st to 2nd gear.
> Often sticks in nuetral.
>
> I have a 65 F-100 240 with 3 on the tree and standard transmission
> (stamped "A"). Some folks have told me this is very common and
> something I'll have to live with. Have tried to find replacements for
> the shifting linkage bushings but to no avail.
>
> Any suggestions or recommendations?
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 17:48:21 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The He-Man Header Haters Club

I just got done reading Ballinger's dissertation on headers and it just
doesn't give me hope.

I had finally decided that the headers have to go (390), now I'm not sure.
My problems are with leaks and drive shaft clearance.

All of the headers that I have seen are the full length. Does anyone make a
shorty header for the FE series? Would a shorty header offer a compromise
between performance and fitment?

Should I spend the $ for custom header? Should I go stock? What to do? What
to do?

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon
ICQ# 19575234

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 20:49:18 -0500
From: "The Freeman Family"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The He-Man Header Haters Club

Why not ask Stan at Stan's headers? He's been helpful to me and seems
willing to answer my questions. I don't have his URL handy. Maybe someone
else has it handy? I currently run headers on my FE and havn't had any
leakage problems. Starter problems..Yes. I don't know if this helps or
not, but may be another resource to check with.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Grossman
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 8:47 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The He-Man Header Haters Club


>
>
>
>I just got done reading Ballinger's dissertation on headers and it just
>doesn't give me hope.
>
>I had finally decided that the headers have to go (390), now I'm not sure.
>My problems are with leaks and drive shaft clearance.
>
>All of the headers that I have seen are the full length. Does anyone make
a
>shorty header for the FE series? Would a shorty header offer a compromise
>between performance and fitment?
>
>Should I spend the $ for custom header? Should I go stock? What to do?
What
>to do?
>
>--
>Don Grossman
>duckdon pacific.net
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon
>ICQ# 19575234
>
>63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 17:59:14 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - spark plug test

Thanks for your message at 02:48 PM 11/3/98 -0600, bkirking bcm.tmc.edu.
Your message was:

OK kids, remember these stunts are being done by trained professional
mechanics. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!

>>Bryan says to e-mail your spark plug wires to him in Houston and he'll do
>>the finger test for you.
>
>Sure there are less "pure" ways like timing lights, but you don't get a
FEEL for
>the voltage. I like to put fingers in two consecutive wires, that way I
tell when
>there's a 2 or 3 volt difference between them. Not to mention that having
hair
>like Don King keeps the headliner from falling....
>
>BTW, I whole heartedly agree that a remote starter swtich is a great
>investment.
>

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 19:42:06 -0700
From: "bertolin"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - exhaust manifold

> How do I go about finding hairline cracks???

Floyd, with the exception of the exhaust manifold that ended up on my truck,
there were hairline cracks on all the exhaust manifolds I looked at. You can
see them if you look at it closely. I ended up with an exhaust manifold that
came off an early 70's industrial van. ? whether this one was "industrial
strength" and therefore less prone to cracking.
Roberta



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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 18:48:20 -0800
From: Eric Donaldson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - He-man Header Haters

The headers on my '75 F250 leaked and looked terrible, but they stayed
on until I failed the smog test for lacking manifold heat. I replaced
them with the original manifolds , 21/2" pipes and Walker 'turbos'.
Power remained about the same, as far as I could tell, and was a
pleasure to use, without that horrible racket coming through the
firewall.

Eric

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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 18:56:08 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Replacing the pickup.

- ->Subject: FTE 61-79 - Quitting when warm.
- ->
- ->Some one wrote: >>Check the pick up coil in the distributor. These
are ->a real pain because they fail after they are hot.
- ->I've replaced several pickups that cured the problem you describe.

- ->Azie
- ->Ardmore, Al.

You replace the whole truck! WOW!
Do you at least keep the Radiator cap?

Chris
79 Bronco


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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 02:10:39 -0800
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Bent Starter Forks

Steve Delanty wrote:

> Now that I know what those things look like in there, I'll definately
> be pulling the nose off all new or rebuilt Ford starters I install so
> I can fix that problem before it happens...

Steve, You wanna draw up a quick sketch and use your new scanner to post it to your home
page so that we can get a better idea of what the problem is? It's something I'll be
looking at the next time the starter is off.

- -Marv-

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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 23:00:24 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 430

sorry i didn't finish the story: someone butchered up this super rare mustang
to put this engine in, just because it had lots of cubic inches,
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 23:07:01 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 430

one more reply on this post, i did buy the car.

jeff grant
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 23:05:45 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 430

i guess it was misleading, due to the fact that i didn't finish the story,
some nut yanked the cj stuff out for this boat anchor of an engine, i can't
imagine why anyone would want more power than a 428cj with a four speed and
4:30 gears.

jeff grant
griffin, ga.
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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 21:30:03 -0700
From: Gene Gardner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Solutions

Azie asked me to post the results to my problem with clutch chatter several
months ago, so here's a testimonial to how this list has helped guys like
me (non-mechanics with very little money). On my '70 F100:
- -- Clutch chatter: followed group advice, solved stubborn recurring problem
by (a) putting in a new (not rebuilt) clutch, (b) resurfacing flywheel, (c)
replacing throwout, etc., (d) balancing clutch kit with flywheel, and (e)
adding longer threaded adjuster arm to linkage (was stripped at end,
couldn't adjust to full length). It's been fine for almost 2 months now
(knock, knock) ...
- -- Front end wander and wobble: big improvement, (a) tightened worm gear on
gearbox (but not TOO tight), (b) replaced kingpins (luckily, came out
relatively easily by heating with torch), went with brass, and (c) replaced
rubber bushings on the arms that run back to the cab from the spindles (not
the cab mounts, what the hell are they?). Still has side to side rocking at
highway speed; my mechanic here in Mexico says I probably need new front
coil springs. By the way, labor here is about 2-3 times cheaper! I paid
$120 for the clutch work, and $75 for the front end work, both including
all new parts. That last price also included:
- -- Solving intermittant jerking from faulty fuel flow: (a) replaced filter
(even I knew that), (b) cleaned pickup screen in tank, (c) flushed tank,
and (d) replaced rotting rubber hoses in fuel line and filler tube (because
"even a pinhole can suck in air", like someone said).
- -- Replacing leaking rear axle seal, plus rear brake shoes and slave
cylinder on 1 side, and rear wheel bearings.

My mechanic here is both competent and honest (and reasonable!), but the
key to everything was having my list of ideas and info that I got over the
last year from this list. Summarized -- thanks, Ken, thanks fellas.

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher
Hermosillo, Mexico (by way of West Texas)


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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 23:28:14 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Locker or not to locker?

a nine inch built correctly is as strong as a dana 60, use a "N" case, daytona
pinion support, detroit locker and 31 spline axles. and install a trak lok in
the front. this is the set up i'm running in my pulling truck (78 f150) all
the competitors in my class are pulling f250's and 3/4 ton chevy's. i normaly
finish 1st or 2nd and i'm about the only one that has never broke a driveline
part, maybe i've just been lucky.
of course the dana 60 front and rear would be nice. i'm just cheap

jeff grant
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:45:14 -0800
From: Rob Bryan
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 engine swap?

The only difference between the 240 and 300 is the stroke length. So you
could pull the crank, pistons, and rods from a 240, put in the same parts
from a 300 and it is the exact same thing as an engine that started out as
a 300. So if your 240 bites the big one, do replace it with a 300!!!! The
block, manifolds, etc etc are the same. You might need to put a bigger jet
in the carb though to feed the 60 ci/1 liter bigger appitite of the 300.

Rob

At 11:49 AM -0500 10/31/98, Doug Roach wrote:
>By some bizarre coincidence, a subscriber named Doug asked this morning
>about 240/300 compatibility.
>This week, my '67 -240 dropped a valve and after diligent inspection by
>a mechanic I trust, the verdict is put a bullet in this tired old block
>and swap it out. The recommendation was to find out if the manifolds
>from my 240 are the same bolt pattern as a 300. IF that's the case, he
>suggests putting in a 300 which he claims are readily available.
>Not being sharp enough in auto mechanics to perform this function
>myself, I have determined to turn to the list for advice and
>information. I will then take that information around town to do the
>grunt work of locating the new short block and then removing the old
>240. They and the truck will then be towed to the guy who's going to do
>the install.
>This is all in an effort to save a few scheckels. Can I get away with
>doing this swap for five hundred dollars or so? Or is that totally
>unrealistic? Should I consider a junk-yard block or rebuilt?
>The transmission (three on the tree) has an i.d. plate that is totally
>illegible. The plate on the door shows the tranny to be a "C". I think
>that's a Ford - not a Warner. Does this make a difference with the
>engine swap? The truck has no power steering, no a/c, no electronic
>ignition and a Ford one barrel carb with an oil bath air cleaner. Would
>it be wise to change any of these "assets" at the time I repower?
>
>Are there other options to get my beloved '67 (daily driver) back on the
>road? My Boy Scout Troop really needs this thing back in the pink for an
>event in early December.
>Any advice, suggestions, help, are most gratefully accepted.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Roach
>Miami
>mailto:djroach ix.netcom.com
>
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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 02:00:09 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Start Me Up...

Steve likely knows all of this, but I'm going to share my experience
with Ford starters.

>From looking at a Mitchell Interchange manual, the FE can use the same
starter as some six-cylinder applications. It might be that a six
application may have a lighter duty fork. If it's a rebuilt, once the
core gets to a rebuilder, who knows what you have, or what they
replaced. Or what the starter(or components) application was that it
keyed to.

The starter may be rebuilt, but that fork may have 500,000 miles on it.
The drive could have locked in at one time and got the fork pistol hot
and made it lose it's temper. (this could be what happened to yours, or
maybe the headers got to it?) Also, some of your "new" starters on the
market are made from Ford rejected, or substandard imported components.
Don't be surprised if you go through a couple of those before you get a
good one.

I've had a failure similar to yours myself. I got a fork from one of my
"builders" and solved the problem. Most of my failures though on the FE
have been due to breaking the tail housing around the rear bushing.

I don't know what kind you have, original, new, or rebuilt. From my
experience, replacement starters "new" or rebuilt have been trouble. If
you can salvage your original before it's totally worn out and renew
it(and by renew I mean replace all of the worn stuff that can destroy it
down the road) IMHO you're better off. Your weld-repair sounds like just
what the doctor ordered.

> > If you get a chance to talk to the folks on the lever-line, give 'em an
> > attaboy for making nice quality spot welds, but ask them to please put
> > the welds where they could do some good!
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
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Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 02:13:28 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Baby, what a lovely grille you got....

The first thing I do when working on my truck is put on some clothes, I
highly reccommend it. It's Ok to love your truck, but some things
require a little bit of tempering... :-)

> The most common point of ground is the metal on the truck. UNFORTUNATELY
> I once happened to find a cracked spark-plug wire while the only part of my
> body on the truck was just below my belt. $#!$# !$#! $ $#! $# $# !$
> PAINFUL!
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
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Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 01:16:03 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Gears sticking

My sugestion is to find someone with a small lathe and some tough nylon.
I was maintaining a 67 merc F-250 untill the tranny went (wanna rebuild
it myself but no time). A 76 F-150 with a Three speed and my current
Project a 74 F-250 4x4 crew cab. And i Have access to the equipment so i
make all my own bushings and hard rubber bits, using a standard white
nylon.

Their are alot of hidden machine shops in peoples garages and with
measurements or part samples anything like that can be made usually so....

---

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