61-79-list-digest Tuesday, November 3 1998 Volume 02 : Number 509



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - rocker questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 throwing oil
Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Problem!
FTE 61-79 - OD
FTE 61-79 - Oil consumption
FTE 61-79 - Pilot bearing/bushings
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pilot bearing/bushings
FTE 61-79 - P-Valve for disc brakes on 69F-250
FTE 61-79 - Re: New from Norway
RE: FTE 61-79 - I hate the sound of broken metal in a head!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!
FTE 61-79 - Quitting when warm.
FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
Re: FTE 61-79 - Quitting when warm.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
FTE 61-79 - FE leaking
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Garage in Minnesota
Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!
FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem
FTE 61-79 - I got a plug wire in hand, and I'm goin' to Electricladyland.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem
RE: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
RE: FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem
FTE 61-79 - Remove EGR from 5.8L?
Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!
FTE 61-79 - RE: NP435 install, 78 bronco
FTE 61-79 - seat
FTE 61-79 - 351m headers
Re: FTE 61-79 - I got a plug wire in hand, and I'm goi
FTE 61-79 - Re: 351m headers
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: NP435 install, 78 bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
FTE 61-79 - spark plug test
FTE 61-79 - Re: "Shunt" wire? Tech Artical
Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
FTE 61-79 - spark plug test
Re: FTE 61-79 - spark plug test
FTE 61-79 - The He-Man Header Haters Club
FTE 61-79 - Gears sticking
Re: FTE 61-79 - I got a plug wire in hand, and I'm goi
Re: FTE 61-79 - spark plug test

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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 04:25:33 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rocker questions

Ive been working on heads for about 15 years as a part time occupation.
My dear old dad (a retired machinist) bought valve / seat grinding
equipment
as a way to keep my busy in my mid teens (and out of his wallet). And
what your
describing is not uncommon. wear on the rocker or the shaft where they
meet, poor lubrication
as well as the valves never rotating are the most common reasons. If the
tips of the valve stems
are damaged (hardend exaust valves tips as they age can "work harden" to
the point where they become
brittle and chip) can also be a cause. But it is only a concern if the
rocker tip is badly warn.
These contact points are case hardend (only the first few thousands of
an inch in from the surface)
and once it has worn through they will wear alot quicker. the best way
to tell if it is still tough
is by using a fine file and if it doesnt leave a mark your fine. As a
cheat for my own and friends
engines i use a fine hone to remove the marks when i rebuild heads.

CLARE WATERMAN wrote:
>
> Hi gang-
>
> i was replacing my valve stem seals this weekend on my 71 f250 360 c6 on
> the recommendations of list members for my smoke at startup problem
> (thanks!!). When i pulled the rocker shaft on one side i noticed that
> the on two of the rockers (but none of the rest) there seemed to be a bit
> of wear at the face where the rocker contacts the tip of the valve stem.
> Any ideas as to what causes this uneven wear and whether its something i
> should be concerned with? The engine runs fine otherwise and it seems
> that the valve stem seals have GREATLY improved the smoke problem. alll
> that was left of the old ones was a few chunks of hard black crud!!!
>
> thanks for any and all pearls of wisdom,
>
> clare
>
> Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
> Department of Biology
> University of North Carolina
> Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280
>
> T: (919)-962-2354
> F: (919)-962-1625
>
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 04:31:20 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 throwing oil

Are you sure thats where it's coming from?
FE engine have poor oil return from the heads to the block especally
when they get old and gummy
making it easy to seep out a valve cover or under the front of the
intake.
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 04:38:36 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Problem!

sdelanty sonic.net wrote:
>
> >
> >>I have a 1978 F150 with a 351M. its an automatic and 4x4. I have had
> >problems
> >>with it quitting as I am going down the road.
>

Thinking about it.... It could by your ignition coil (not the pickup in
the distributor) I had one occasion of a failure of a coil when hot.
the problem there was it was in a boat.
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:46:35 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - OD

Bill Brox writes: >>If I want a 1976 F 100 or F 150 could I have an
overdrive then... ??? I mean, where overdrive an option in 1976,,, or
other years 1969 to 1979 ?

Where can I find info like this, do they have history books about these
things ?

The 3 speed with Elect OD was an option up until around '75. Was offered
in 2WD only. I have one in my garage, but do not have the relay and Elect
harness for it. It is a direct bolt in replacement for the standard 3
speed, except for the harness and relay stuff necessary to make it work.

I'm not sure where you would find the data as to exactly when this
transmission was no longer offered.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:55:37 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil consumption

Justin writes: >> Well, first of all, it sems that I lose about a quart of
oil a week. This engine is about 2 months old, after being professionally
rebuilt. The only leak that is visible is the oil pan screw. The truck
has normal oil pressure, but after is warms up, I can tap the throttle a
little and se some whitish/kind blue smoke. It sometimes smells a little
like oil, but I don't think this can possibly be.

A classic case of rings not seated. Probably used chrome rings and did not
do a really good job of honing the cylinder surfaces. Give it a few miles
more before you do anything drastic, as I feel it will eventually seat the
rings. You might try taking it on a couple of hundred miles trip and drive
the snot out of it - get it good and warm through and through and vary the
speed lots. Sometimes this helps. Sometimes it just takes time.

Good luck.

Azie


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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:32:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pilot bearing/bushings

Anyone have an opinion or experience with a pilot bearing as opposed to a
bushing? The 335 series has both but the bearing isn't really a bearing in the
normal sense in that there is no cage and the needles are not free to rotate
about the axis of the shaft but only about their own axis which seems a tad
silly to me but I opted for the bearing because it has an "O" ring seal and the
bushing does not. I packed the hole all the way full and pressed the clutch
alignment tool ($1.98 at autozone) in the bearing to squeeze out the excess
grease.

Tranny's in, new clutch ($68) and refaced flywheel ($25), throwout bearing
(??) and pilot bearing (??). Should have it on the road tonight :-) Cross your
fingers Rick, I'll let you know tomorrow if we're still friends (just kidding) :-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 05:55:43 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pilot bearing/bushings

It is not always best to pack the pilot full of grease, as things heat
up the grease expands and works out, It can spray onto the clutch assy,
and cause the chutch to chatter. It wont do any serious Harm though.

I Have never worried about what type of bearing i use unless its hi rpm
where i prefer roller bearings. The bushings are made from something
called oil-lite, a Pourous phospher bronze that is infused with oil by
putting it in a chamber sucking out all the air and replacing it with
oil. (unless you buy it as raw stock where your supposed to soak it
overnight just after making the part.) Knowing that have never cared as
to what i get from the parts Guy.

"Gary, 78 BBB" wrote:
>
> Anyone have an opinion or experience with a pilot bearing as opposed to a
> bushing? The 335 series has both but the bearing isn't really a bearing in the
> normal sense in that there is no cage and the needles are not free to rotate
> about the axis of the shaft but only about their own axis which seems a tad
> silly to me but I opted for the bearing because it has an "O" ring seal and the
> bushing does not. I packed the hole all the way full and pressed the clutch
> alignment tool ($1.98 at autozone) in the bearing to squeeze out the excess
> grease.
>
> Tranny's in, new clutch ($68) and refaced flywheel ($25), throwout bearing
> (??) and pilot bearing (??). Should have it on the road tonight :-) Cross your
> fingers Rick, I'll let you know tomorrow if we're still friends (just kidding) :-)
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 09:32:29 -0500
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - P-Valve for disc brakes on 69F-250

Hey Gang,I'm in the process of changeing my 69 camper special over to
disc brakes.I'm headed down to the local junk yard in search of
P-Valve,is there any way to tell if one is good or bad?Also what's a
fair price to pay?Thanks Mike
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:30:23 -0600
From: "Jamey Moss"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: New from Norway

Bryan Kirking wrote:
>
> Bill Brox [bill online.no] wrote:
>
> >Texas is maybe among the best states to find a pickup truck
>
>Texas is maybe the best state...
>
> > a rather dry
> > state, less rust, and there is a ro ro harbor (Galveston).
>
> Just be careful down around Houston, Galveston, Corpus Christi because the
> gulf salt somewhat accelerates rust (NOTHING LIKE THE MIDWEST). Up in
> the pan handle (Lubbock, Amarillo) there *may* be some road salt issues.
> Dallas/Ft Worth, San Antonio, Austin, Odessa, should all be good sources.
> If you buy way out in West Texas, you can enjoy driving through the Lone
> Star on the way to Galveston.

Yes, definitely be wary of old trucks from the gulf coast. You can find
some that are fine, but the moist, salty air down there takes its toll
on most old vehicles. The '72 F100 Ranger XLT that I used to have spent
most of it's life in far West Texas and never had a drop of rust. Then
we moved near Galveston and the bed rusted over in a matter of months.
The '67 F100 Ranger that I have now spent all of it's life near Dallas
before I bought it and brought it down to Austin, and it has only mild
surface rust under the bed that I'll be taking care of one of these days
(I'm in no major hurry because it's not going anywhere fast in this
climate). Well, it also has a little rust spot bubbling under the cheap
paint job that a previous owner put on there, but I'll take care of that too.

If you're going to be here a while and have an uncontrollable urge to
drive on really long straight roads, you could take a trip from Arizona,
through New Mexico and West Texas and look for trucks along the way.
When I was looking for another truck, I found that people around
Dallas/Ft. Worth, San Antonio, and Austin advertised the trucks in the
local papers and even on the internet and trading magazines, but the
folks way out in the country tended to just put a sign on the window of
the truck and leave it by their house or near the road. Of course,
being the impatient type I didn't wait to find one of those really great
deals out in the county, but since then I've seen some nice trucks for
sale out there.


Good luck with your search,

Jamey Moss http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.prismnet.com/~jamey/f100/
ra4001 email.sps.mot.com
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:39:41 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - I hate the sound of broken metal in a head!

Can you say valve job? Also once your get the intake manifold and heads off
take a real good look at the pistons to see if one has been chipped
/cracked.
John Gillespie

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:10:21 -0500
From: adam.hicks ppctx.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I hate the sound of broken metal in a head!


Oh how I love(d) my '77 F150 460cid... I was driving it down the
road a few days back, and something in the head decided to break.
I wish I knew more about it, but I can tell you the symptom and
maybe you can recommend an action...

When I now start the engine, it will run smooth for a random amount
of (short) time (15-30 seconds) then it makes a LOUD
CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK (about 5-10 times) then will pause
for a few seconds and do it again. I left the truck at a friends
house (where I was when this happened) so I can trailer it home.

The truck has the original manifold and carb, which I have been
researching on replacing anyways, so as it is now, I plan on having
the heads rebuilt (roller rockers? yes or no?), replacing the
intake manifold and carb. Is there anything else I should replace,
since the thing's going to be torn apart? I plan on ordering most
of the parts through Summit (as they seem to be the most
reasonable.) I'm hoping to spend
the Edelbrock head and $217 on the Holley 4 bbl carb. I'm figuring
about $200-$250 / head to rebuild.

Any of this sound crazy? This is my first time... I'm just trying
to do my homework before I make a move.

Thanks!!!
Adam Hicks
Ft. Worth, TX

'77 F150 460 Red/White/Red long bed single cab

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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:51:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!

From: sdelanty sonic.net
Date sent: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:28:12 -0800
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!

> Fine... this time I bent the forks back together and then got the MIG
> welder out and ran a nice bead between the forks right where they
> seperate.

> welds are. The factory setup is really weak and I can see why they fail.
> I don't think it can possibly fail there again now that it's welded up.

If you could see the press we used to test the welds on those "levers" you
would have more confidence in them but some do get out without the proper
welds, unfortunately. I've never seen this failure in a three pole, positive
engagement starter but I know it does happen.

Have you ever tried to maintain high quality spot welds in a production
environment? Pretty tricky sometimes. I can tell you many stories about that
lever line but ford would probably fire me so I'll just say that trying to make
good parts can be a real challenge sometimes :-) Even small differences in
the steel composition can make for a good day or a very bad day or an oil
leak on one of the machines before the welding operation which isn't caught
right away etc..

You guys who have never worked in a manufacturing environment might be
amazed to hear that making good parts is a constant battle against small,
seemingly insignificant variations in temp, humidity, machining coolant brand
or type, steel compostition, length of storage in tubs before welding and even
small changes in shop air line pressure etc.. You'd be amazed at how small a
thing can ruin a perfectly good day :-)

You will be happy to know however at the time we were producing these
starters they had a world wide reputation for being bullet proof and were
considered better in quality and service life than any others on the American
market at the time. We're hoping the new, gear type will earn the same
reputaion :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 11:29:05 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Quitting when warm.

Some one wrote: >>Check the pick up coil in the distributor. These are a
real pain because they fail after they are hot.

I've replaced several pickups that cured the problem you describe.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 11:39:08 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug

Someone writes: >>I haven't done the finger in the spark plug wire yet to
see if it is getting fire, can't find somebody to turn her over this early
in the morning, but will do it soon.

>>>You will also need somebody to videotape the whole thing.



Yes !!!!! Please video it!!!!!!!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:06:50 -0700
From: "Andrew W. Ford - Speaking For Myself"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Quitting when warm.

am14 chrysler.com wrote:

> Some one wrote: >>Check the pick up coil in the distributor. These are a
> real pain because they fail after they are hot.
>
> I've replaced several pickups that cured the problem you describe.

My lesson from the summer of 96: replace coil, stator (pickup-coil) and
ignition module
ALL AT ONCE!

I could write a 2 page dissertion on the events which led up to this conclusion,
but I think
the general idea of multiple parts replacements makes the point (yeah, the parts
were all
warranteed, but it was *me* stalled/broke down on the side of the road all
summer!)

Good Luck,
78 F150 Ranger 4x4 Supercab / 351M C6

- --
Andrew Ford (602)581-4499
forda agcs.com Si vis pacem, parabellum.
Above is *my* opinion, for theirs see below...
AG Communication Systems - Expand the power of your network.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.agcs.com



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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:08:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug

From: am14 chrysler.com
Date sent: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 11:39:08 -0500
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug

> Someone writes: >>I haven't done the finger in the spark plug wire yet to
> see if it is getting fire, can't find somebody to turn her over this early
> in the morning, but will do it soon.

My grand daddy used to........wet his fingers.... so he could tell just how
good the spark was on his tractors but they were only 10000 v or so. Just a
buzz to him :-) The hair would stand up on my head just standing next to
him when he did it but he didn't seem to notice any shock :-)

I'd like ot have videos of lots of neat things he did........one day he hooked
his hook (left hand missing) to his chain saw and proceeded to get the blade
pinched by the tree he was cutting down. He couldn't unhook due to the
hook not being hooked up so.........he just stepped calmly to the side while it
fell inches from his legs and pulled the saw out with a big grin on his face.
He was in his 70's then :-) One day while using a double edged ax he.........:-)



Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:14:18 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE leaking

The intake end seals are really bad about leaking too.

> First, are you sure the oil is coming from the distributor seal? My
> old 360 (God rest its soul) had so much blow-by that it blew oil from
> the breather on the valve cover (especially when on the highway).
> After a while the gaskets started to leak too (all that blow-by
> trying to escape). At first I thought the problem was a bad
> distributor seal, but I was wrong. If you notice oil coming
> from the breather (that is, if you have breathers on the valve
> covers) you might try a compression check.
> Second, did you install the seal properly? There is an 'up' side
> to the seal, but it is possible to install them upside down (which
> could lead to more leakage).
> Good luck
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 09:06:54 -0600
From: Rick Sullivan
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Garage in Minnesota

Anyone in the St. Paul Minneapolis area know of a garage
I can rent to store my '78 F250 SuperCab in for the
winter? I'd like to keep it looking like a Texas truck
instead of a Minnesota one.
Rick
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 11:11:59 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug

I wanna copy.........


At 11:39 AM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Someone writes: >>I haven't done the finger in the spark plug wire yet to
>see if it is getting fire, can't find somebody to turn her over this early
>in the morning, but will do it soon.
>
>>>>You will also need somebody to videotape the whole thing.
>
>
>
>Yes !!!!! Please video it!!!!!!!!!
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
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>

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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:24:01 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!

>> Fine... this time I bent the forks back together and then got the MIG
>> welder out and ran a nice bead between the forks right where they
>> seperate.
>
>> welds are. The factory setup is really weak and I can see why they fail.
>> I don't think it can possibly fail there again now that it's welded up.

>If you could see the press we used to test the welds on those "levers" you
>would have more confidence in them but some do get out without the proper
>welds, unfortunately. I've never seen this failure in a three pole, positive
>engagement starter but I know it does happen.
>
>Have you ever tried to maintain high quality spot welds in a production
>environment? Pretty tricky sometimes. I can tell you many stories about that
>lever line but ford would probably fire me so I'll just say that trying to
make
>good parts can be a real challenge sometimes :-)



Nah, you misunderstand. It wasn't the *weld* that failed. The arm bent
just below the bottom weld.
It's not a poor quality weld, it's a poor quality design. If they'd added
a 3rd spot weld as close to the end of the fork as possible it would be
fine. (or even put one of the two existing welds in the right place)
As it was, the stock welds were in almost exactly the perfect place to
do the *least* possible amount of good. One needs to be moved nearer to
the end of the arm where all the force is, so that force has the least
amount of leverage to bend the metal.

Now that I know what those things look like in there, I'll definately
be pulling the nose off all new or rebuilt Ford starters I install so
I can fix that problem before it happens...

If you get a chance to talk to the folks on the lever-line, give 'em an
attaboy for making nice quality spot welds, but ask them to please put
the welds where they could do some good!


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to
recognize a mistake when you make it again.
-- F. P. Jones


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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:05:13 -0700
From: BJ Tiemessen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem

I have a '79 F-250 and for the last month have had only front brakes. I
knew there was a leak in the line somewhere to the rear breaks (new
master cylender and rear slaves) but couldn't find it. I would fill the
reservoir for the rear brakes and after driving around the block the
reservoir was empty. after bleeding the bakes, or they just appeared to
be bled, I used almost a whole bottle of brake fluid and finaly found
where my leak was. I have dual tanks and the line runs inside the frame
rail between the tank, and that is where the leak is. When I inspected
further I found that this section of the line had been replaced twice
already, because who ever replaced it the last two times had left the
old lines still in there. The problem is that this area is packed full
of dirt. When I replace the lines it will be just a matter of time
untill the new line will rust out again. Is there anything that I can
do to keep this area from getting packed full of dirt and mud? Does
anyone have any ideas?

Thankx,
BJ

Fort Collins, CO '79 F-250

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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:31:48 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I got a plug wire in hand, and I'm goin' to Electricladyland.

One thing to remember with high voltage, is that it isn't the voltage
that will kill you, it's the amperage. Amperage can vary pretty widely
according to atmospheric conditions, the amperage capacity of the
circuit (huge in a secondary ignition) and the ground condition you find
yourself in. Standing on damp ground in leather shoes makes you fine
conductor (let's see like a #000000000 gauge wire) and will allow
amperage to build enough to blow your socks off.

Get a set of pliers made for pulling plug wires, wear rubber soles, and
be on a dry surface, this will make it reasonably safe. You can still
get a shock, but you wont be as good a conductor as before.

> ROFLOL,,,,,,, have been laughing a lot of the "finger in the spark plug
> wire" test.
> Oh dear, you really gave me a good laugh.
>
> Never seen a person speaks so natural about putting his finger in a high
> voltage output....... either you don't know what you are up to, or you
> belong to those who can withstand a lot of voltage.... I am afraid I
> suspect the later to be true.
>
> At school they told about a teacher who held his fingers over a 220 volts
> output, and of course some of the students thought there was no voltage and
> got the surprice of the day trying to do the same.
>
> Larry, some people can do that sort of stuff......
>
> The coil voltage won't hurt you unless you have a weak heart. But NEVER do
> this in a high energy output.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:33:45 -0800
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug

Put me down for a copy too! But seriously, a $9 starter switch is one of
the best investments I've made for my toolbox. Drastically reduces the need
to find someone to "turn her over".

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Schmiedekamp
> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 9:12 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
>
>
> I wanna copy.........
>
>
> At 11:39 AM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >Someone writes: >>I haven't done the finger in the spark plug wire yet
> to
> >see if it is getting fire, can't find somebody to turn her over this
> early
> >in the morning, but will do it soon.
> >
> >>>>You will also need somebody to videotape the whole thing.
> >
> >
> >
> >Yes !!!!! Please video it!!!!!!!!!
> >
> >Azie
> >Ardmore, Al.
> >
> >
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:45:09 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem

>I have a '79 F-250 and for the last month have had only front brakes. I
>knew there was a leak in the line somewhere to the rear breaks (new
>master cylender and rear slaves) but couldn't find it. I would fill the
>reservoir for the rear brakes and after driving around the block the
>reservoir was empty. after bleeding the bakes, or they just appeared to
>be bled, I used almost a whole bottle of brake fluid and finaly found
>where my leak was. I have dual tanks and the line runs inside the frame
>rail between the tank, and that is where the leak is. When I inspected
>further I found that this section of the line had been replaced twice
>already, because who ever replaced it the last two times had left the
>old lines still in there. The problem is that this area is packed full
>of dirt. When I replace the lines it will be just a matter of time
>untill the new line will rust out again. Is there anything that I can
>do to keep this area from getting packed full of dirt and mud? Does
>anyone have any ideas?


You could run the line in stainless steel. No more rust problems...


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to
recognize a mistake when you make it again.
-- F. P. Jones


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 11:50:50 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug

Also unless you really get off on this mathod, I just use my timing lite

which clips onto the wire itself. If it flashes you got spark.




At 09:33 AM 11/3/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Put me down for a copy too! But seriously, a $9 starter switch is one of
>the best investments I've made for my toolbox. Drastically reduces the need
>to find someone to "turn her over".
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Larry Schmiedekamp
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 9:12 AM
>> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
>>
>>
>> I wanna copy.........
>>
>>
>> At 11:39 AM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>> >Someone writes: >>I haven't done the finger in the spark plug wire yet
>> to
>> >see if it is getting fire, can't find somebody to turn her over this
>> early
>> >in the morning, but will do it soon.
>> >
>> >>>>You will also need somebody to videotape the whole thing.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Yes !!!!! Please video it!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>> >Azie
>> >Ardmore, Al.
>> >
>> >
>> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>> >
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:56:29 -0800
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem

I once had a similar problem on an old Ch***. When I replaced the brake
line, I flared one end. Before I flared the other end, I slipped a length
of fuel line over the tubing. I shot a bit of silicone in the ends to seal
it and then flared the other end. It didn't stop mud from getting up there,
but the line didn't rust!

Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ Tiemessen
> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 9:05 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem
>
> I have a '79 F-250 and for the last month have had only front brakes. I
> knew there was a leak in the line somewhere to the rear breaks (new
> master cylender and rear slaves) but couldn't find it. I would fill the
> reservoir for the rear brakes and after driving around the block the
> reservoir was empty. after bleeding the bakes, or they just appeared to
> be bled, I used almost a whole bottle of brake fluid and finaly found
> where my leak was. I have dual tanks and the line runs inside the frame
> rail between the tank, and that is where the leak is. When I inspected
> further I found that this section of the line had been replaced twice
> already, because who ever replaced it the last two times had left the
> old lines still in there. The problem is that this area is packed full
> of dirt. When I replace the lines it will be just a matter of time
> untill the new line will rust out again. Is there anything that I can
> do to keep this area from getting packed full of dirt and mud? Does
> anyone have any ideas?
>
> Thankx,
> BJ
>
> Fort Collins, CO '79 F-250
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:11:39 -0500
From: "John Kosche"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Remove EGR from 5.8L?

I'm installing a 5.8L from an '89 pickup in a '62 Falcon Clubwagon. I
thought everything was under control till I found that the engine housing
will not let me install the EGR valve on the intake plenum.. Several
solutions have poped into my head..

Throw the EGR valve away and block off the ports...
Remote mount the EGR valve..
Find someone to burn a new chip that will elimenate the EGR... This is my
favorite of the three but none of the commercial aftermarket chip producers
will do anything to circumvent smog devices... ANY IDEAS???

john

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 11:46:48 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 break line problem

See if you can get a gas line hose larger then the break line and

slip it over the trouble area and clamp each end.




At 10:05 AM 11/3/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I have a '79 F-250 and for the last month have had only front brakes. I
>knew there was a leak in the line somewhere to the rear breaks (new
>master cylender and rear slaves) but couldn't find it. I would fill the
>reservoir for the rear brakes and after driving around the block the
>reservoir was empty. after bleeding the bakes, or they just appeared to
>be bled, I used almost a whole bottle of brake fluid and finaly found
>where my leak was. I have dual tanks and the line runs inside the frame
>rail between the tank, and that is where the leak is. When I inspected
>further I found that this section of the line had been replaced twice
>already, because who ever replaced it the last two times had left the
>old lines still in there. The problem is that this area is packed full
>of dirt. When I replace the lines it will be just a matter of time
>untill the new line will rust out again. Is there anything that I can
>do to keep this area from getting packed full of dirt and mud? Does
>anyone have any ideas?
>
>Thankx,
>BJ
>
>Fort Collins, CO '79 F-250
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:21:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!

From: sdelanty sonic.net
Date sent: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:24:01 -0800
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!

> If you get a chance to talk to the folks on the lever-line, give 'em an
> attaboy for making nice quality spot welds, but ask them to please put
> the welds where they could do some good!

Somebody else owns that starter now but if they didn't I couldn't get an
engineer to listen to me anyway, they haven't for 33 years, why would they
start now? That design did change over the years so there may be more than
one lever design floating around, not sure.

The ones I've inspected were pretty stout so I wouldn't have thought this
was possible. I used to put them in the starter on the assy line at one point in
my long and illustrious career. When I came into the tool room I ground the
die sections that cut the slots and trimmed the ends of the lever arms along
with the other die parts. They were made in two steps, formed and blanked
and then punched and trimmed. That trim die was a pain because the setup
man kept putting shims under stuff to "keep the line running".........long story
:-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:20:39 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: NP435 install, 78 bronco

Hi Gary.

As you noted:
"Anyway the stupid bolts in the top of the cross member (this one mounts to
both top and bottom of the frame) are "under" the sheet metal of the floor
with no access so you have to slide a 9/16 open end in there to hold it
while you "attempt" to get the nuts off with a long extension and
Ujoint..........not fun :-( Then you have to push the bolts out of the way
so you can move the cross member but remember the floor is in the way :-("

If this gets to you in time and for everyone else.
There is a K/Member mod that makes life much easier and has stood the test;
well at least my test for the last 12 years.
Cut that sucker into three pieces!
Seriously make a cut at about a 45 angle at about the center of the radius
where it rolls up vertical on both sides; but below the side braces. This
cut will become the center of your new joint. Next make 4 more cuts trimming
off enough material for the thickness of the end plates that you are going
to weld in. In my case I used 1/4" steel plates, so I trimmed off the
equivalent of 1/4" from both sides of my original cut. Or if you are brave
you could just cut a 1/2" section out in the first place. Then you fashion
up your 1/4"(?) plates (mine ended up being oval in shape and drill and tap
them so that there are at least 3ea. 3/8" bolts holding the plates together.
I placed two bolts in through holes on the outside and the tapped hole in
the center where it essentially becomes a blind hole when assembled. I
welded heavy a heavy nut to the back side of this center hole giving me more
thread engagement just because. Did I mention that you need to be test
fitting this thing at every step? Once you have everything tacked and bolted
and it fits; weld it solid. Paint it. Bolt it in using Gr.8 fasteners and
face the bolts up through the frame not like the factory down. I "Loctited"
all of the fasteners holding the K/member to the frame as I never intend to
take it out again, nor have I had to in the last 12 years; the Trans-T/C has
been out 5 times for clutches and such. There have been no adverse reactions
anyplace else caused by this modification. I do put in new Gr.8 fasteners
each time that I take this joint apart and I do Loctite them, though I use
the removable stuff here.
This modification took me about 4 hours to do and has saved about 3 hours
every time I have had to pull the gearboxes; as you simply unbolt everything
(except the Trans mount), pull the top off the Trans; slide the Gearboxes
back far enough to clear the Bell Housing and drop em.
I don't have your hoist so I just stick my engine hoist in through the
passenger door hook up my chain and lower away. Almost makes it easy!-)
I leave the piece of K/Member attached because if I set the Trans down on my
floor jack with the cup of the jack in the recess of the K/Member it
balances quite nicely. Bonus!!

Chris
79 Bronco


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:42:31 -0500 (EST)
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - seat

Hey guys/gals if any of you come across a 40/20/40 seat while searching
the yards that came in the 94 to 97 ford trucks please E-Mail me where
and how much.
I have been searching for the last year and 1/2 with no results . I want
to put it in my 70 F100 .prefer Red or Maroon but will consider Black or
Dark Grey . Thanks

Randy
1970 F100 2WD
1978 F150 2WD
1977 F250 4WD

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 12:55:05 -0600
From: Shawn
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351m headers

Hola again,

I just scored myself a 351m to replace the tired one that's currently in
my truck.
2yr old rebuild with a brand new distributor, performer 400 intake and
6mo old 600fm edelbrock carb and an erson cam. (anyone used these cams
before?) for the paltry
sum of $420. w00! I even get the alternator and ignition box :) I was
just looking for some advise on a good set of headers that will work in
my 68 F100 2WD.

Any advise is appreciated
TIA
Shawn Donkin

'68 F100

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 14:04:16 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I got a plug wire in hand, and I'm goi

.0001 ampers can kill. Voltage dosent mean a thing, I got hit by a
capacitor that was rated over a million volts, felt like an electric fence..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460


At 12:36 PM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>One thing to remember with high voltage, is that it isn't the voltage
>that will kill you, it's the amperage. Amperage can vary pretty widely
>according to atmospheric conditions, the amperage capacity of the
>circuit (huge in a secondary ignition) and the ground condition you find
>yourself in. Standing on damp ground in leather shoes makes you fine
>conductor (let's see like a #000000000 gauge wire) and will allow
>amperage to build enough to blow your socks off.
>
>Get a set of pliers made for pulling plug wires, wear rubber soles, and
>be on a dry surface, this will make it reasonably safe. You can still
>get a shock, but you wont be as good a conductor as before.
>
>> ROFLOL,,,,,,, have been laughing a lot of the "finger in the spark plug
>> wire" test.
>> Oh dear, you really gave me a good laugh.
>>
>> Never seen a person speaks so natural about putting his finger in a high
>> voltage output....... either you don't know what you are up to, or you
>> belong to those who can withstand a lot of voltage.... I am afraid I
>> suspect the later to be true.
>>
>> At school they told about a teacher who held his fingers over a 220 volts
>> output, and of course some of the students thought there was no voltage and
>> got the surprice of the day trying to do the same.
>>
>> Larry, some people can do that sort of stuff......
>>
>> The coil voltage won't hurt you unless you have a weak heart. But NEVER do
>> this in a high energy output.
>--
>Come on over to my Back Porch
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
>Ballinger
>ballingr ldd.net
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 13:05:24 -0600
From: Shawn
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351m headers

B.T.W, i am also thinking about switching from my 3.25 gears with something
numerically higher. Any thoughts on that i would also be appreciated also.

I wrote:

> Hola again,
>
> I just scored myself a 351m to replace the tired one that's currently in
> my truck.
> 2yr old rebuild with a brand new distributor, performer 400 intake and
> 6mo old 600fm edelbrock carb and an erson cam. (anyone used these cams
> before?) for the paltry
> sum of $420. w00! I even get the alternator and ignition box :) I was
> just looking for some advise on a good set of headers that will work in
> my 68 F100 2WD.
>
> Any advise is appreciated
> TIA
> Shawn Donkin
>
> '68 F100



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:20:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: NP435 install, 78 bronco

From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: NP435 install, 78 bronco
Date sent: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:20:39 -0800

> If this gets to you in time and for everyone else.
> There is a K/Member mod that makes life much easier and has stood the
> test; well at least my test for the last 12 years. Cut that sucker into

Without cutting anything I can aleviate quite a bit of frustration just by
tacking 4 nuts to the top of the frame so I don't have to hold anythng when I
take the bolts out. Thanks for the idea :-) I like the structural integrety this
style cross member gives the frame so don't want to cut it but I will tack the
nuts to the frame I think.

With the engine hoist located to the front and facing rear ward I have much
more room to work too so when I pulled every thing I was working from the
rear but when I put it all back in I'm working from the front so I can stand
behind the tranny without tripping all over the jack :-) Next time I do this job
it will take half as long for sure :-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:25:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke

Well....
The pcv is working, and an connected, although it does not seal VERy well
to the rocker arm cover....I've got around 1500 miles on the engine since
rebuild, and the smoke is very slight, and not really noticeable most of
the time. In fact, most of the time it is not even present,so I really
don't know...

>
> How about the pcv valve and such is it hooked up? Also how many miles since
> the rebuild some ring sets take awhile to get seated and you will see some
> slight oil smoke until they do.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Justin Farcas
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 3:24 PM
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
>
>
> >Yeah, most of those I figured could be it, but you know, it seems real odd
> >for it to be that, since it was a newly rebuilt engine. It's odd,
> >because it doesn't happen all the time, and hte only time I do see
> >whitish smoke is when I tap the throttle real low, when it's about 1000
> >rpm's, nothing. Internal engine probs are a definite possibility, but
> >it's just odd because This engine has not been run hard or anything....
> >Could it have anything to do with not sucking in enough air from the air
> >cleaner? Thanks for your help....
> >
> > Justin
> >
> >
> >> > From:
> >
> > Justin
> >Farcas > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
> >> Date sent: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 12:03:20 -0500 (EST)
> >>
> >> > week. This engine is about 2 months old, after being professionally
> >> > rebuilt. The only leak that is visible is the oil pan screw. The
> truck
> >> > has normal oil pressure, but after is warms up, I can tap the throttle
> a
> >> > little and se some whitish/kind blue smoke.
> >>
> >> Poor hone job, incorrect cylinder to piston match, broken ring, bad or
> >> missing valve stem seals or poor guide refurbishing.... but if it looks
> like oil
> >> and smells like oil then.............:-( Rnn, don't walk, back to the
> builder and
> >> show him what you have. If he's honest he will help you, otherwise you
> have
> >> my sympathy and now know why I learned to do everything myself :-(
> >>
> >>
> >> Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
> >> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >>
> >
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


- --



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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:44:02 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - spark plug test

Larry,

Bryan says to e-mail your spark plug wires to him in Houston and he'll do
the finger test for you.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:21:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: "Shunt" wire? Tech Artical

Paul wrote:

> Wayne wrote:
> I have searched the archives to no avail about the "shunt wire" to get the
> AMP
> guage to work on my 1979 Bronco. I really would like to know what my
> alternator is doing using the stock gauges. If possible.....could someone
> do
> a TECH article on it? Thanks In Advance!! Wayne Grabley
>
> I believe "Tom Hogan" - List Member is talking about doing this. He
> apparently has experience with exactly what you are talking about.
>
> Tom? You out there?

Tom checked out last week, he is transferring from the left to the
right coast, probably driving even as we type:-)

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:27:07 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug

Just curious...how exactly did he lose his hand?

- ----------
> From: Gary, 78 BBB
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Checking fire at plug
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 4:08 AM
>
>
> I'd like ot have videos of lots of neat things he did........one day he
hooked
> his hook (left hand missing) to his chain saw and proceeded to get the
blade
> pinched by the tree he was cutting down. He couldn't unhook due to the
> hook not being hooked up so.........he just stepped calmly to the side
while it
> fell inches from his legs and pulled the saw out with a big grin on his
face.
> He was in his 70's then :-) One day while using a double edged ax
he.........:-)
>

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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:48:09 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - spark plug test

John LaGrone [jlagrone ford-trucks.com]
>Bryan says to e-mail your spark plug wires to him in Houston and he'll do
>the finger test for you.

Sure there are less "pure" ways like timing lights, but you don't get a FEEL for
the voltage. I like to put fingers in two consecutive wires, that way I tell when
there's a 2 or 3 volt difference between them. Not to mention that having hair
like Don King keeps the headliner from falling....

BTW, I whole heartedly agree that a remote starter swtich is a great
investment.


All those FE Push rods are straight and intact!
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 14:51:53 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - spark plug test

John

Do you think I should send them to him as an attachment or directly

in the Email?






At 01:44 PM 11/3/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Larry,
>
>Bryan says to e-mail your spark plug wires to him in Houston and he'll do
>the finger test for you.
>
>
>-John
>
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!
>
>
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>

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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 14:17:43 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - The He-Man Header Haters Club

FE's get hurt pretty bad when running iron exhaust manifolds (unless you
have a set of HP manifolds, let's see is that high performance or high
price? I can't remember which). They are just plain crummy when it comes
to higher speed flow. The only place they flow better is below 2000
rpms where their scavenging effect is in full swing, beyond
that the restriction is killing you.

Azie is right that in most truck applications they work just fine.
That's
because the 750-2500 rpm range is what gets you under way, and where you
spend almost all of your time pulling. But if you have low gears, you
blow right through that range 10 feet after you let in the clutch and
goes up much too quick as you go for the other gears. Normal range
gears and
lower rpms, you likely would do better with iron manifolds, especially
with the
compromises you have to make to make headers fit.

Headers are a PITA. On mine, like Steve's you have to pull the
passenger side one to get at the starter. Unless you "persuade" the
tubes a little, they'll be a 1/2in. from your starter. This causes
premature failure due to overheating the windings. They always, I don't
care what you do, leak when cold. This sometimes causes
drivability problems during warm up, because you start off dead lean,
then over rich when they suddenly seal up. Setting up a choke to work
perfectly under all conditions can be a challenge.

I hate them with a passion, but since I have 4.56 gears and 32 inch tall
tires (roughly the same as a 3.73 set with normal size tires) I spend
more time over 2500 rpms than most and can see quite a difference with
headers in my
application. I've considered going back to iron, but one look at the
manifolds changes my mind. Stomp your feet and hold your breath, but on
an FE that's going to spend much time over 2000 rpms and be expected to
give it's best you have to live with headers. Other engines seem less
effected since they have a freer flowing manifold design.

Tuning for headers can include speeding up your advance curve and
richening the carb. I've had FE's that wouldn't tolerate manifold
vacuam advance go to needing it to make the same manifold vacuam at
idle after switching to headers. This indicates a lower efficiency at
low speed of the end of the exhaust- beginning of the intake transition
(overlap state) where the scavenging exhaust actually creates a draw on
the intake port as the intake valve opens. If your exhaust port goes
dead, unburned gasses stay in the cylinder or actually push back up the
intake tract polluting (leaning out) the next incoming charge. This is
called reversion.


This phenomenon is due to having good port flow, but with lower velocity
at low speed, charcteristic of larger ports, and a weaker scavenging
signal of the header at lower speeds. It seems that more spark advance
"props" it up until the exhaust pulse's get "in-tune" and start
scavenging. That can tell you alot on what effect changing exhaust pulse
amplitude can have on low rpm applications. Of coarse again, once you
pull into the operating range of the exhaust, the lack of restriction
increases the efficiency of the stroke by a great degree from that point
on, since the scavenging effect goes much higher in the rpm range. This
makes the engine capable of burning more fuel and it will benefit from
richening the mixture.

Other Ford engines don't have as much trouble adapting at low speed
since their ports are more restricted and their manifolds are freer
breathing. The bottom line is that headers will wake an FE up, big
time.

But I still hate 'em


> I had headers on my 360, and like you got tired of the mess (hung down
too
> far) and changing gaskets, so I switched ... yikes, talk about a loss of
> power. It still sounds good, but it lost a ton of umph. I never had a
lot
> down low (steep gears will suck that up quick), but it seemed to affect
the
> whole range, and really limited how many revs I can get when I do want
top
> end. I recently added a 4V (was 2V) and that helped a bit, but I think
the
> combo would be a very very strong engine.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:52:26 -0600
From: Jim Pitcock
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gears sticking

Have lately been having problems trying to shift from 1st to 2nd gear.
Often sticks in nuetral.

I have a 65 F-100 240 with 3 on the tree and standard transmission
(stamped "A"). Some folks have told me this is very common and
something I'll have to live with. Have tried to find replacements for
the shifting linkage bushings but to no avail.

Any suggestions or recommendations?

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 14:54:23 -0700
From: "Andrew W. Ford - Speaking For Myself"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I got a plug wire in hand, and I'm goi

Dayton Boyd wrote:

> .0001 ampers can kill. Voltage dosent mean a thing, I got hit by a
> capacitor that was rated over a million volts, felt like an electric fence..

Uh, not to pick nits, but .001 ampers (1mA) is the threshold of sensation.
20-75mA is usually gosh-dern-unfriendly! but rarely life-threatening.
75-100mA can be fatal
100-200mA, if through the heart, is almost always fatal.
As you progress above 200mA, burns and severe post-shock spasms can be fatal.

I don't offhand remember what the range is, but you're better off from
200 - 250 or 300? mA than between 100 & 200.At 12:36 PM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:

> Someone wrote:
> >One thing to remember with high voltage, is that it isn't the voltage
> >that will kill you, it's the amperage. Amperage can vary pretty widely
> >according to atmospheric conditions, the amperage capacity of the
> >circuit (huge in a secondary ignition) and the ground condition you find
> >yourself in. Standing on damp ground in leather shoes makes you fine

Speaking both theoritcally AND from experience! The rubber tires (assuming
she's sitting on the tires) are a pretty good insulator.

The most common point of ground is the metal on the truck. UNFORTUNATELY
I once happened to find a cracked spark-plug wire while the only part of my
body on the truck was just below my belt. $#!$# !$#! $ $#! $# $# !$ PAINFUL!

Note: that I survived this does not make it safe - there's definitely enough
power
in the ignition system to put 100-200mA through your body.

The most dangerous position would be one hand on the wire and the other resting
on a firm, metal ground - this put's the path of the current through your heart.

> >conductor (let's see like a #000000000 gauge wire) and will allow
> >amperage to build enough to blow your socks off.
> >
> >Get a set of pliers made for pulling plug wires, wear rubber soles, and
> >be on a dry surface, this will make it reasonably safe. You can still
> >get a shock, but you wont be as good a conductor as before.

And DON'T lean against any part of the truck vaugely resembling metal!

> >> Never seen a person speaks so natural about putting his finger in a high
> >> voltage output....... either you don't know what you are up to, or you
> >> belong to those who can withstand a lot of voltage.... I am afraid I
> >> suspect the later to be true.

I DO NOT recommend this to ANYONE. But.... There have been a couple
of situations were I've deliberately (a)worn rubber shoes, (b) made sure the
vehicle was on its tires, and (c) placed an elbow [palm facing up and situated
to remain clear of any moving parts!] on a solid ground, and (d) touched the
wire with the back of my hand [fingers clench AWAY from the wire].
It is one H*ll of a shock - one tends to dance and hop around even with one....


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