61-79-list-digest Tuesday, November 3 1998 Volume 02 : Number 508



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco
FTE 61-79 - Brakes, proportioning valve
Re: FTE 61-79 - welders
FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Problem!
Re: FTE 61-79 - eliminate carrier bearing?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers vs. Exhaust Manifolds
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 435
Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Problem!
FTE 61-79 - rocker questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers vs. Exhaust Manifolds
FTE 61-79 - NP 435 5 speed
Re: FTE 61-79 - New from Norway.
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco
RE: FTE 61-79 - Newbie
RE: FTE 61-79 - Newbie
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco
FTE 61-79 - Overdrive
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 Won't start(Clicking gone)
Re: FTE 61-79 - New from Norway.
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 throwing oil
FTE 61-79 - Re: 360 throwing oil
FTE 61-79 - trans question
FTE 61-79 - Fort Worth-Dallas area list members???
FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
Re: FTE 61-79 - 430
FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
Re: FTE 61-79 - 430
FTE 61-79 - '83 CFI
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 Won't start(Clicking gone)
FTE 61-79 - Texas and rust
FTE 61-79 - hood latch
FTE 61-79 - New from Norwa
Re: FTE 61-79 - New from Norwa
FTE 61-79 - NP435 5 speed
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 Won't start(Clicking gone)
RE: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967
Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Problem!
FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!
Re: FTE 61-79 - where are casting numbers on 351C?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
FTE 61-79 - I hate the sound of broken metal in a head!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
Re: FTE 61-79 - I hate the sound of broken metal in a head!
Re: FTE 61-79 - split vote opinion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fort Worth-Dallas area list members???
FTE 61-79 - Thanks

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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 06:42:21 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco

Well, I have a whole tool box drawer full of nuts and bolts, hope I can
remember where they all go :-) I got my tranny out now and on the bench
and Rick's tranny is on the jack (makeshift add on to my engine hoist) but I
still have to get the bell housing off and replace the throw out bearing and
pilot bearing. Went pretty smooth except for the cross member. The most
convenient spot to set the hoist on is the radius arm backet which is also
attached to the cross member and the weight squeezes the brackets together
so the cross member can't by pushed out so I had to drop it down on my tall
jack stand to take the weight off the front hoist arms (if you think I did this
wihout some trepedation, think again!) Problem is the ears won't line up
with anything else so I always use the brackets but in this case I needed to
find another way to lift it. Anyway the stupid bolts in the top of the cross
member (this one mounts to both top and bottom of the frame) are "under"
the sheet metal of the floor with no access so you have to slide a 9/16 open
end in there to hold it while you "attempt" to get the nuts off with a long
extension and Ujoint..........not fun :-( Then you have to push the bolts out
of the way so you can move the cross member but remember the floor is in
the way :-(

Had to remove the seat so I could pull up the carpet since the last owner put
the carpet over the shifter boots. If I put that old rotten carpet back down
(temporarily to keep the noise down) the boots will be on top and maybe
even the tranny cover. Sure make things nice to be able to pull the tranny
cover to get to things. That's the way a truck should be IMHO :-)

On the bright side my tranny has some ominous crunching and rattling in it
when you turn the imput or output shafts where Rick's is Smoooooth :-)
The homemade tranny jack is definitely an improvement over strong arming
and the lift makes life more fun. I'm hoping to have it back together tonight
but probably won't have time to button it all the way up till tomorrow.

BTW, the bolts that hold the bell housing on are kind of small, there are only
4 and the bellhousing to the engine bolts appear to be smaller than those on
my 460 (I thought they were the same) but I'll know tonight when I take it
off, maybe it's just the head size that's different. Seems odd that a solid,
manual tranny which take a lot more shock than the auto would have more,
rather than less bolts in it.



Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 06:48:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, proportioning valve

Tell me I didn't just send several redundant posts....just realized I grabbed
one of my composit addresses and added another one to boot, sorry about
that.

I have the original proportioning valve in but it is suspect as to proper
operation so all my efforts have yielded no new data I can rely on :-( I
gravity bled, pressure pedal to a full bottle bled and traditional bled and I do
have brakes but they feel essentially just as they did before so all my
conjecture was a pipe dream :-( Fortunately I will have this truck till I die and
eventually I will have BRAKES :-) Perhaps a booster out of a big
truck.......rats, they have air brakes :-( Maybe air brakes?

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 07:40:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - welders

Date sent: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 12:35:53 -0600
Subject: FTE 61-79 - welders
From: jedolson juno.com (JOHN E DOLSON)

> Soon I will be needing to do some welding on my 1976 f150, floor pans, cab
> mounts, door post, bed floor.....ect. My question is, what type of welder
> will I need? what amp rating? I own a 225 amp lincoln arc welder, will
> this work? Any other advice you have that pertains to this type of welding
> would be appreciated.

If you plan to do more of this later on you should invest in a light duty wire
(MIG) welder for sheet metal. You can use 6013 x 1/16 rod and do some
stuff but it's very messy and very hard to do without burning holes. You can
use a torch but it warps the steel as soon as the flame touches it.
Progressive spot welding with a wire welder is the only technique I've had
any luck with so far and I highly recommend it. Get a Eastwood catalog for
more ideas about sheet metal work.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 08:06:12 -0500
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Problem!


>I have a 1978 F150 with a 351M. its an automatic and 4x4. I have had
problems
>with it quitting as I am going down the road. I rebuilt the carburetor

Scott, before replacing the Duraspark module, try cleaning every connection
that
is ignition related. It worked for me, I had the same problem, hit a
pothole and
truck died, then it started right up and kept on going 'til next bump...
Tommy


Check the pick up coil in the distributor. These are a real pain because
they fail after they are hot. You cannot start the vehicle until it cools
off. (Also happened while under power with same results.) First time this
happened to me was back in 84 on my 79 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT. Because it
was still under warranty The Ford/Mercury dealer it was purchased it at
tried to trouble shoot the problem, with no luck because they would try the
vehicle cold and see no problem.

I went to pick up the vehicle and it would not work. Talk about an
embarrassed service manager! It is not the first thing most mechanics will
look at, so if you don't know how to check it yourself mention this to your
favorite mechanic/gear-head friend and see what they think.

It is not that difficult to check. I believe that if you do a continuity
check across the coil when it is cold it will appear fine. Take a shop
light and heat it up for a while, (30 minutes should be enough), and try it
again. Most of the time a failure will show "open", however I have seen it
once where there was still some "flow" even with this check.

Good luck


Later,

"Paul"


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 08:23:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - eliminate carrier bearing?

From: BDIJXS aol.com
Date sent: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 19:56:17 EST
Subject: FTE 61-79 - eliminate carrier bearing?

> Since I'm swapping in a 205 for my little Dana 20 (or 21, can never
> remember) and have to modify the drivelines anyway, why not just skip the
> carrier bearing setup and make it the one-driveshaft setup?

Remember, long drive shafts have to be "fat".

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 08:25:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers vs. Exhaust Manifolds

From: BDIJXS aol.com
Date sent: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 19:38:17 EST
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Headers vs. Exhaust Manifolds

> people as to whether they think the headers really make THAT much
> difference in the low (less than 3000 RPM) range....its just that the
> stock manifold are so simple and take up so much less room than the
> headers....

I can't see any difference in mine but I didn't tune for headers and expect my
enigne is not running up to snuff due to this so they may if you tune for
them, not sure.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 08:48:00 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 435

Eric Donaldson wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> What OX says makes sense, but Chilton's said re NP 433,435,540,541
> Series 4 speed and 5 speed:
> "NOTE: the transmissions, although both 4 speed and 5 speed, are
> basically the same in construction. The 4 speed transmission is actually
> a 5 speed with the second speed gear and second speed synchronizer inner
> ring removed from the mainshaft and replaced by a spacer."

OK, I pulled out my Chiltons which has a veiw of the top of trans with
shift fork/rails/cover off. There may be enough space for another gear
between first and second (err..3rd ?), but I don't see enough space to
put in another synchronizer assy. The 3/4 synchronizer assy is different
than the second gear synch. assy, so possibly the 3/4 synch. assy is
used when the "real" second gear is added. I don't really have a problem
with the drop from first to second. If I wanted another gear, it would
be an even deeper first or an overdrive at which case I could regear
accordingly.

OX
> However, this is not shown in the drawing, and no drawing of the
> rumoured 5 speed is shown for comparison. I have yet to see the inside
> of mine, so I don't have much to add.
> What do you think?
>
> Eric.
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 05:45:24 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Problem!

In the distibutor the leads from the pickup coil to the grommet
can break without any signs, from the movement of the breaker plate
causing intermittent problems. Try manually moving the plate with engine
warmed up using the vac advance and a little suction.

It could also be a faulty ignition switch but that usually only happens
with chevys.

"Mr. Paul R. Boudreault" wrote:
>
>
> >I have a 1978 F150 with a 351M. its an automatic and 4x4. I have had
> problems
> >with it quitting as I am going down the road. I rebuilt the carburetor
>
>
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:10:16 -0500 (EST)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rocker questions

Hi gang-

i was replacing my valve stem seals this weekend on my 71 f250 360 c6 on
the recommendations of list members for my smoke at startup problem
(thanks!!). When i pulled the rocker shaft on one side i noticed that
the on two of the rockers (but none of the rest) there seemed to be a bit
of wear at the face where the rocker contacts the tip of the valve stem.
Any ideas as to what causes this uneven wear and whether its something i
should be concerned with? The engine runs fine otherwise and it seems
that the valve stem seals have GREATLY improved the smoke problem. alll
that was left of the old ones was a few chunks of hard black crud!!!

thanks for any and all pearls of wisdom,

clare

Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 08:19:59 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers vs. Exhaust Manifolds

>Just trying to catch up on my lists here after being in China for about 10
>days. Thought some here might be interested to know that Ford seems to be
>selling cars there, particularly something called a "Transit"....a mid-sized
>mini van....
>
Interesting lookin suckers aren't they ?



>Anyway, I've been running headers on my 4x4 for many years, and am thinking
>about switching back to stock exhaust manifolds and dual exhaust while
>installing the 428 engine. I was hoping to get a quick idea from people as to
>whether they think the headers really make THAT much difference in the low
>(less than 3000 RPM) range....its just that the stock manifold are so simple
>and take up so much less room than the headers....
>
I had headers on my 360, and like you got tired of the mess (hung down too
far) and changing gaskets, so I switched ... yikes, talk about a loss of
power. It still sounds good, but it lost a ton of umph. I never had a lot
down low (steep gears will suck that up quick), but it seemed to affect the
whole range, and really limited how many revs I can get when I do want top
end. I recently added a 4V (was 2V) and that helped a bit, but I think the
combo would be a very very strong engine.

Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:39:27 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP 435 5 speed

Eric Donaldson writes: >>Also,the '71 Chilton's says the 435 is a 5 speed
with second gear removed. Can I easily add a gear to the 4 speed? Any
experts out there?

Don't believe everything you read in Chiltons. I can't say for sure that
the NP 435 was not intended to be a 5 speed, but I don't believe there is
any way to easily (read Cheaply) to convert it to a 5 speed. I would think
if it were true, then there would be a lot of 5 speed NP 435's around, and
I've never seen one.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 08:40:48 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New from Norway.

>Im Donny Mason from TEXAS MR.Bill Brox I think a unibody truck is a
>truck with the body and the bed in one solid peace. If any of y'all
>know any thing about fixing a power stiring leak on a '77 F100 and
>some advise on rebildin a 351C

Well for the 351C, Mustang Monthly did an article a while back on this
(build up too ..), if you have any mustang buddies they might have copies
of this ... They were makin some great power. The first issue though the
company doing the rebuild forgot the cam retainer plate (is that the right
name?) anyway the cam slipped forward, chipped a lobe and some other nifty
things to the lifters ...



Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 09:49:44 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco

> Anyway the stupid bolts in the top of the cross
> member (this one mounts to both top and bottom of the frame) are "under"
> the sheet metal of the floor with no access so you have to slide a 9/16 open
> end in there to hold it while you "attempt" to get the nuts off with a long
> extension and Ujoint..........not fun :-( Then you have to push the bolts out
> of the way so you can move the cross member but remember the floor is in
> the way :-(


You have sagging bodymounts and or rotted frame/frame standoffs. When
I fix my standoff's and put in new body mounts, I had plenty of
clearance for those bolts. I had to pry up body sheet metal previous to
this, what a pain. I have a 2" body lift now and I love all the extra
clearance to work on stuff. I can even reach transfer case shifter
sitting under truck. Body lifts are awsome.

OX
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 08:34:00 -0600
From: Doug_Brodie oxy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Newbie

Hey Tommy. Welcome. Try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thriftynickel.com/index.html That's where
I found mine after looking in Trader online for several weeks with no luck.


--Original Message-----
I'm searching the Trader online almost daily but still no sign of a
1967-1972 stepside
with V8, auto and 4WD, don't tell me it's a hopeless chase I'm on...(not
that it would surprise me:) )
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 08:34:00 -0600
From: Doug_Brodie oxy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Newbie

Hey Tommy. Welcome. Try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thriftynickel.com/index.html That's where
I found mine after looking in Trader online for several weeks with no luck.


--Original Message-----
I'm searching the Trader online almost daily but still no sign of a
1967-1972 stepside
with V8, auto and 4WD, don't tell me it's a hopeless chase I'm on...(not
that it would surprise me:) )
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 10:06:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco

From: luxjo thecore.com
Date sent: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 09:49:44 -0500
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco

> You have sagging bodymounts and or rotted frame/frame standoffs. When I
> fix my standoff's and put in new body mounts, I had plenty of clearance
> for those bolts. I had to pry up body sheet metal previous to this, what a
> pain. I have a 2" body lift now and I love all the extra clearance to work
> on stuff. I can even reach transfer case shifter sitting under truck. Body
> lifts are awsome.

I've had them and agree for the purpose of getting at stuff but a body lift still
won't make getting the danged cross member out much easier. The exhuast
pipe occupied the exact space the cross member needed to slide out easily
and the xfer case bracket interfered on the other side. I eventually used my
inimitatable "grab the dang thing and pull as hard as you can and if that don't
work look for a longer pry bar cuz this turkey is coming out I don't care
what I break....." method and it got so scared of the face I was making it just
came right out :-)

I'm very concerned I may have to use the same method to get it back in :-(
I'm cutting some sheet metal over the bolts too so next time.........and there
will be a next time......I can at least pop the bolts out :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:07:44 +0100
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overdrive

Hi all,

If I want a 1976 F 100 or F 150 could I have an overdrive then... ??? I
mean, where overdrive an option in 1976,,, or other years 1969 to 1979 ?

Where can I find info like this, do they have history books about these
things ?


Bill Brox





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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 09:16:56 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 Won't start(Clicking gone)

William

Check how many amps your starter is pulling. I had a 63 f100 doing this.

Replaced battery and regulator and still would crank and try to fire but

wouldn't start and battery would run down.

The starter was pulling to many amps making the coil weak.


You where joking about the finger in spark plug test? RIGHT

At 05:10 AM 10/31/98 PST, you wrote:
>thanks to everybody that offered help with my clicking 302. It was a
>almost dead battery. I tried to jump it, I can get it to turn over but
>right before she fires up it is like the starter locks up on me and
>stops it. I haven't replaced the battery yet, because it takes awhile
>to get them here, also I'm heading stateside Tues and wanted to get her
>fired up and get any parts that I need to get while I am there.
>It is a 79 and has the Spark Modulator on the driver's side, the
>seleniod and a what looks like a tin box with Soild State Electronics on
>it with some wiring in and out on the Passenger side and what I think is
>the ignition coil(yellow clyinder thingy with one big wire leading to
>the dist cab and 2 little wires on each side). I haven't done the
>finger in the spark plug wire yet to see if it is getting fire, can't
>find somebody to turn her over this early in the morning, but will do it
>soon. I just think that she may be getting fire because she about goes
>and the starter seems to stop it. Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>
>74 F100 RANGER SUPER CAB 390
>79 F150 EXPLORER SUPER CAB 302
>"IT DON'T GTMO BETTER THEN THIS, SEMPER FI"
>
>
>______________________________________________________
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>

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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 07:24:47 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New from Norway.

Thanks for your message at 02:18 PM 11/1/98 -0800, Donald Mason. Your
message was:
>Donny Mason
>How'dy list
>Im Donny Mason from TEXAS MR.Bill Brox I think a unibody truck is a
>truck with the body and the bed in one solid peace. If any of y'all
>know any thing about fixing a power stiring leak on a '77 F100 and
>some advise on rebildin a 351C
>"Donny Mason"
>
>
>---Bill Brox wrote:
>>
>> Hello list,
>>
>> My name is Bill Brox, and I lives in Norway.
>>
I can't help it! I just have to comment on how cosmopolitan, how
international , how eclectic, how diverse this FTE list is. Where else
could I be communicating with people from Norway and Texas (two of my
favorite countries) at the same time!

Dennis from Kenewick, ancestors in Sweden and an ex- in Texas...


1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 10:27:48 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> From: luxjo thecore.com
> Date sent: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 09:49:44 -0500
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP435 install, 78 bronco

> I've had them and agree for the purpose of getting at stuff but a body lift still
> won't make getting the danged cross member out much easier.

With 2" body lift, cross member does not have to come out. Transfer
falls off and tranny comes though the floor, straight up!! It's tight,
but it fits. Need to remove seats/carpet, but I think thats easier than
removing that cross member.;-)

OX
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 09:26:38 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 throwing oil

At 10:57 AM 11/1/98 , you wrote:
>I've got a '74 F100 with a 360 that throws oil from the distributor opening
>while I am on the highway. I pulled the dist and replaced the seal, but it
>still leaks. It seems to have "normal" oil pressure (high midrange cold
>and midrange hot). It doesn't seem to be causing any problems othr than
>making a mess. 1) Is this a real problem? 2)Any suggestions?


No help here, but if you find something out, lemme know !


Just my 2cents

Bill

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'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 11:08:15 -0500
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 360 throwing oil

Marty,
First, are you sure the oil is coming from the distributor seal? My
old 360 (God rest its soul) had so much blow-by that it blew oil from
the breather on the valve cover (especially when on the highway).
After a while the gaskets started to leak too (all that blow-by
trying to escape). At first I thought the problem was a bad
distributor seal, but I was wrong. If you notice oil coming
from the breather (that is, if you have breathers on the valve
covers) you might try a compression check.
Second, did you install the seal properly? There is an 'up' side
to the seal, but it is possible to install them upside down (which
could lead to more leakage).
Good luck

Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 08:12:53 PST
From: "Miguel Quijada"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - trans question

I have a question on rebuilding my trans. i have a manual tranny 3-speed
with a granny gear. i have a 4x4 . i was wondering what a fair price
would be to rebuild it and replace the clutch at the same time?

Miguel Quijada
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.asu.edu/~chonr11
miguel_quijada hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 10:23:25 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fort Worth-Dallas area list members???

Bill Adams [wladams beau.lib.la.us] wrote:

>Anybody out there from around Dallas?

Well, Houston is about 4 - 5 hours. By Texas standards, that's "around".

There is a good looking bone yard north of Dallas (about 50 mi S of oklahoma)
on I-35-W. I think its called grand prix classics or something like that. I haven't
stopped, but going by on the highway at 80 I thought I saw quite a few old
trucks...
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 12:03:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke

Ok, I've got a few questions about my exhaust and oil probs on my 79 F150
460 4bbl. Well, first of all, it sems that I lose about a quart of oil a
week. This engine is about 2 months old, after being professionally
rebuilt. The only leak that is visible is the oil pan screw. The truck
has normal oil pressure, but after is warms up, I can tap the throttle a
little and se some whitish/kind blue smoke. It sometimes smells a little
like oil, but I don't think this can possibly be. This engine has no
other probs other than that. I need to also replace the air filter,
which is now too small. If anyone has any answers to what might be
causing this oil leak or consumption I would appreciate it.


Thanks,

Justin Farcas --



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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 09:18:55 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 430

Thanks for your message at 12:06 AM 11/2/98 EST, JJJJJGRANT aol.com. Your
message was:
>this sounds like the ultra rare mustang i thought i had found, it was a 69 gt
>coupe with a "R" engine code which made it super rare anyway. i thought it
may
>have been some kind of ford experimental car, i didn't recognize the engine,
>it had exhaust ports like a fe. anyway i had an old ford racer to take a look
>at it, and he said it was a 462 lincoln engine, it was the first and last one
>of those i saw.

And this was factory stock? Cool...


1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:22:41 -0600
From: sjacobi fd9ns01.okladot.state.ok.us
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967

>> We have a '67 F100 that we would like to add A/C to.
>> ........... '68 has a control panel that will require cutting the
dash,
>>which we don't want to do. > Was the '67 available with A/C originally?
>>Does someone make a kit that looks OE? What about the rubber floor mat,
>>does anyone repro it? Thanks for any advice or suggestions.
>> Rich Southerland


> 68-72 F Series all had the same location for either heater controls or
A/C
>control in the center of the dash. Not sure about 67, but it may be the
>same as 68. Anyway, my 69 heater panel was removed and replace with a
>factory control lever panel from a 72 with AC and it was an exact
>bolt-in....same nuts holding the panel to the dash even. You shouldn't
>have to cut anything in the dash. Exactly what location do you want to
cut

>Jerry
>1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW AC
>1970 F100 (ret)

The '67 heat/vent controls ARE different from the '68-'72 controls.

Steve




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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 12:32:21 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke

From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
Date sent: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 12:03:20 -0500 (EST)

> week. This engine is about 2 months old, after being professionally
> rebuilt. The only leak that is visible is the oil pan screw. The truck
> has normal oil pressure, but after is warms up, I can tap the throttle a
> little and se some whitish/kind blue smoke.

Poor hone job, incorrect cylinder to piston match, broken ring, bad or
missing valve stem seals or poor guide refurbishing.... but if it looks like oil
and smells like oil then.............:-( Rnn, don't walk, back to the builder and
show him what you have. If he's honest he will help you, otherwise you have
my sympathy and now know why I learned to do everything myself :-(


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 11:34:25 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 430

At 11:18 AM 11/2/98 , you wrote:
>Thanks for your message at 12:06 AM 11/2/98 EST, JJJJJGRANT aol.com. Your
>message was:
>>this sounds like the ultra rare mustang i thought i had found, it was a 69 gt
>>coupe with a "R" engine code which made it super rare anyway. i thought it
>may
>>have been some kind of ford experimental car, i didn't recognize the engine,
>>it had exhaust ports like a fe. anyway i had an old ford racer to take a look
>>at it, and he said it was a 462 lincoln engine, it was the first and last one
>>of those i saw.
>
>And this was factory stock? Cool...
>
>

I doubt it, factory stock for an R code 69 is a 428 CJ with Ram Air (ie
shaker hood scoop). The rare part is A) its a 69 GT, the last year for
them B) its a coupe with GT option C) its a coupe with the GT and 428CJ.
The only thing to make it possibly more rare would be the Drag Pak or
Locker Rear end which adds and oil cooler and beefed up lower end to the
428 making it a Super Cobra Jet ....

All this makes it really rare, as for desirable ... well that's your call,
if you like the coupe, then its desirable, and I'm sure whether you like it
or not, someone wants it so its worth mega bucks in original form.

Sorry for the ramble, just thought I'd try and clear some stuff up, maybe I
made it worse though, who knows.


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 10:45:21 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '83 CFI

>From: ballingr ldd.net (_ Ballinger)
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - '83 CFI
>
>The '83's had a CFI setup with an EEC-III computer.
>One way you know for sure is most of them have a
>Bosch regulator integral with the throttle body, amd
>a Baro-Map sensor on the passenger side fender
>well.
>
>Some '81's and '82's had a variable-venturi
>feed-back carb, but I've never seen one on an '83.
>
Yo Gary & Bill, et al:

I'd concur w/ Bill. AFAIK, after 1983, the only Crown Vics w/ carburetors
were the 5.8 (351W) police cars (or Canadian-only 5.8 trailer towing pkg.)
using the variable venturi feedback carb.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:24:42 -0600
From: sjacobi fd9ns01.okladot.state.ok.us
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967

>I know in 1967 you could get Dealer installed Air///I took A unit
>out of a 67 it had the heater controls like an early Bronco ...
>It has the fan and A/c controls on the unit itself.....

>Joe


Indeed, I have factory air in my '67, but it is a below dash unit

Steve


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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 09:26:56 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 Won't start(Clicking gone)

Thanks for your message at 09:16 AM 11/2/98 -0600, Larry Schmiedekamp. Your
message was:
> >You where joking about the finger in spark plug test? RIGHT
>
I haven't done the
>>finger in the spark plug wire yet to see if it is getting fire, can't
>>find somebody to turn her over this early in the morning, but will do it
>>soon.

You will also need somebody to videotape the whole thing...



1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:47:21 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Texas and rust

Bill Brox,

Welcome to the FTE family. Being from Texas, I thought you might like to
know that it is a very big place with varying climate. If you find a truck
native to Dallas, you should be in good shape as far as rust goes. If you
are negotiating for a truck, be sure to find out if it has spent any of its
life on the coast of Texas. There is plenty of salty air and numerous
chemical plants around Houston. Most of the people who live there either
buy new cars or come inland to buy used ones. Arizona is probably the
driest part of the country and famous for rust free trucks, but alas it has
no where near the population of Texas, so the selection won't be nearly so
big.

Good luck on your truck hunt, after all the thrill of the hunt is one of
the best parts.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:28:19 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hood latch

I messed around with the hood latch spring over the weekend. I tried to
bend the spring. No luck there. I couldn't undo in 5 minutes what mother
nature had done in 19 years. So I thought about someone's post regarding
welding on a 1 inch sleeve. Out come the adjustable pliers (alias Channel
Locks) and I proceed to redo the landing area. A little pull and a little
tug and before you know it my landing area is at a little bit different
slant than it was. The spring no longer slides off in between the radiator
and the frame. The hood sure is hard to shut. I do not slam hoods BTW. My
method is to gently engage the first latch then press with palms down about
halfway between the centerline of the hood and the fenders along the front
downturn. The same method is a necessity on a 55 Buick unless you want to
replace hood and hinges along with refinishing the top of the fenders. Slam
the hood on an early to mid-70s Caddy and it takes 3 men and a boy to get
it open again. Anyway, so far, so good.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:22:05 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New from Norwa

Bill Brox [bill online.no] wrote:

>Texas is maybe among the best states to find a pickup truck

Texas is maybe the best state...

> a rather dry
>state, less rust, and there is a ro ro harbor (Galveston).

Just be careful down around Houston, Galveston, Corpus Christi because the
gulf salt somewhat accelerates rust (NOTHING LIKE THE MIDWEST). Up in
the pan handle (Lubbock, Amarillo) there *may* be some road salt issues.
Dallas/Ft Worth, San Antonio, Austin, Odessa, should all be good sources. If
you buy way out in West Texas, you can enjoy driving through the Lone Star on
the way to Galveston.

You may also want to consider Arizona as they are especially dry and I hear
they have a nice abundance of old trucks.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 10:18:38 -0800
From: "sam weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New from Norwa

>>Texas is maybe among the best states to find a pickup truck
>
>Texas is maybe the best state...
>

You've never been to Alaska... The Greatland...

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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 12:27:40 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP435 5 speed

William Ballinger writes: >> Azie usually knows alot about tranny's, I'd
bet he'd know.

Thanks for the compliment, but I got caught up on this one. I've already
posted to the fact that I've never seen a NP 5 speed that resembled the
NP435. Sorry to dissappoint you. I am aware of the very late model NV
3500/4500 series 5 speeds, but they don't compare.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 19:40:33 +0100
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 Won't start(Clicking gone)

ROFLOL,,,,,,, have been laughing a lot of the "finger in the spark plug
wire" test.
Oh dear, you really gave me a good laugh.

Never seen a person speaks so natural about putting his finger in a high
voltage output....... either you don't know what you are up to, or you
belong to those who can withstand a lot of voltage.... I am afraid I
suspect the later to be true.

At school they told about a teacher who held his fingers over a 220 volts
output, and of course some of the students thought there was no voltage and
got the surprice of the day trying to do the same.

Larry, some people can do that sort of stuff......

The coil voltage won't hurt you unless you have a weak heart. But NEVER do
this in a high energy output.


Bill




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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:02:08 -0800
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967

Thank you for all the suggestions and such. Here is where we are at:
Found a complete system in a '68 F250. Appears to be "factory" although I
don't know if it is a dealer A/C unit. The blower motor, evaporator,heater
core, ect are in a large assembly that has two bolts that go through the
firewall and 2 bolts in the dash that hold the assy. in place. The assy.
connects to the passengers fresh air intake. It has 2 hoses that connect to
the defroster vents in the dash as well as 2 vents under the dash (contained
in the assembly). The blower motor fills the area where the glovebox was
(the door is still there and operational) so a glovebox is included in the
part of the assembly that protrudes under dash. The only apparent problem
is control cables. The '68-72 uses a sliding lever type control, while my
'67 uses push-pull control for operation. I do not want to cut my dash! It
looks like I should be able to use my existing knobs (possibly add one for
A/C control-I do have a extra hole where the cargo light switch would go (if
I had one). I was hoping someone had been there-done that. I will be
ditching the compressor for a new one immediately. Thanks for the tips so
far....
Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> From: sjacobi fd9ns01.okladot.state.ok.us
> Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 9:25 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967
>
>
>
> >I know in 1967 you could get Dealer installed Air///I took A unit
> >out of a 67 it had the heater controls like an early Bronco ...
> >It has the fan and A/c controls on the unit itself.....
>
> >Joe
>
>
> Indeed, I have factory air in my '67, but it is a below dash unit
>
> Steve
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:28:14 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark Problem!

>
>>I have a 1978 F150 with a 351M. its an automatic and 4x4. I have had
>problems
>>with it quitting as I am going down the road.


>Check the pick up coil in the distributor. These are a real pain because
>they fail after they are hot. You cannot start the vehicle until it cools
>off.

Yes, I recently replaced one for a friend that had just this problem.
It would just die without warning sometimes, usually when hot.
Bad pickup coil...

>It is not that difficult to check. I believe that if you do a continuity
>check across the coil when it is cold it will appear fine. Take a shop
>light and heat it up for a while, (30 minutes should be enough), and try it
>again. Most of the time a failure will show "open", however I have seen it
>once where there was still some "flow" even with this check.

The resistance varies quit a bit between coils, but they are usually
550-750 ohms from the purple wire to the orange wire. Anything much
outside the 550-750 range is proabably suspicious. Should be infinite
resistance from either the orange or purple wire to the black wire.
If you've got any continuity from black wire to the other wires, you've
got a coil shorted to ground.

Check the coil when it's gooda nd hot, that's when they're most likely
to fail.
I like the shop light or heat lamp idea to warm it up...


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to
recognize a mistake when you make it again.
-- F. P. Jones


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:28:12 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hey! You guys jinxed my starter!


Hey youse guys...

Well, I caught a little bit of a thread about starter bendix problems
several weeks ago, and shortly after that the starter on my F100 died.
The starter would spin over, but it wouldn't engage the flywheel. It
would work about 1 time in 5, and the rest of the times it would just
spin and grind. Not nice...

Sigh... It's really a pain to remove the starter on my 390, because
the passenger side header has to come off first. Not much fun.
Fortunately I never-seize *everything* when it goes together, so it came
apart with no major problems.

Once I got the starter out, I disected it and found the problem.
The forks on the actuating arm thingy had spread out enough that they
had let go of the little tabs on the bendix and couldn't shove it
forward anymore.
This was a *brand new* starter (not rebuilt) about 43,000 miles ago
and since the bushings, commutator, and brushes still looked excellent
I opted to repair it rather than replace it. I couldn't see anything
else damaged, or any particular reason why the forks should have spread,
so I bent the forks back together again, lubed up the bushings and put
it back together.
It worked fine for about a week and then one morning I went to start it
and got that nasty grinding noise again for my reward. Arrrgggh!
(That's one of the noises I made, not the one it made)

Pull the damned headers and starter *again*! This time is less fun than
the first time, because this time I get the added joy of feeling *really*
stoopid for not getting it fixed the first time.
Got the starter apart, and sure enough the forks were spread out again.
They bent near the bottom of the fork, just above a couple spot welds
that hold the two pieces of stamped steel together. The metal is kinda
narrow down at that end of the fork and it's kinda wimpy for the job.

Fine... this time I bent the forks back together and then got the MIG
welder out and ran a nice bead between the forks right where they
seperate. It holds the 2 pieces together closer to the end, so there's
less leverage for the forces that try to spread it, plus it's now welded
in an area where the metal is much stouter than where the factory spot
welds are. The factory setup is really weak and I can see why they fail.
I don't think it can possibly fail there again now that it's welded up.

If I ever have to replace a starter, I'll certainly pull it apart and
weld it up *before* I put it in to eleiminate that ugly problem
before it can be a problem...


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to
recognize a mistake when you make it again.
-- F. P. Jones


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 12:32:55 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - where are casting numbers on 351C?

>From: Bill Adams
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - where are casting numbers on 351C?
>
>Just got the 351C pulled out of the old junker
>it was in, now I need to know where to look for
>casting numbers so I can more positively
>identify this engine.

Yo Bill:

Engine block casting numbers for 335 series engines (351C/351M/400) are on
the right side, under the last two cylinders (beside where the starter
mounts). Cylinder head casting numbers for the 351C are on the bottom of
the head, just below the intake ports. (You have to remove the heads from
the block to find 351C head casting numbers.) M-block (351M/400) head
casting numbers are on the top of the head, under the valve covers.

If your block casting number starts w/ D0 or D2, you have a 351C block. If
your block casting number starts w/ D1, D3, D4, D5, D7, or D8, you have an
M-block.

Casting numbers for 351C blocks are: D0AZ-D, D0AE-G, D0AE-J, D2AE-CA

Casting numbers for M-blocks (351M/400) are: D1AE-A, D1AE-AC, D1AE-A2C,
D3AE-B, D4AE-B2A, D5AZ, D7TE-A2B, D8.

Good luck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 16:12:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke

Yeah, most of those I figured could be it, but you know, it seems real odd
for it to be that, since it was a newly rebuilt engine. It's odd,
because it doesn't happen all the time, and hte only time I do see
whitish smoke is when I tap the throttle real low, when it's about 1000
rpm's, nothing. Internal engine probs are a definite possibility, but
it's just odd because This engine has not been run hard or anything....
Could it have anything to do with not sucking in enough air from the air
cleaner? Thanks for your help....

Justin


> > From:

Justin
Farcas > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
> Date sent: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 12:03:20 -0500 (EST)
>
> > week. This engine is about 2 months old, after being professionally
> > rebuilt. The only leak that is visible is the oil pan screw. The truck
> > has normal oil pressure, but after is warms up, I can tap the throttle a
> > little and se some whitish/kind blue smoke.
>
> Poor hone job, incorrect cylinder to piston match, broken ring, bad or
> missing valve stem seals or poor guide refurbishing.... but if it looks like oil
> and smells like oil then.............:-( Rnn, don't walk, back to the builder and
> show him what you have. If he's honest he will help you, otherwise you have
> my sympathy and now know why I learned to do everything myself :-(
>
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


- --



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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:10:21 -0500
From: adam.hicks ppctx.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I hate the sound of broken metal in a head!


Oh how I love(d) my '77 F150 460cid... I was driving it down the
road a few days back, and something in the head decided to break.
I wish I knew more about it, but I can tell you the symptom and
maybe you can recommend an action...

When I now start the engine, it will run smooth for a random amount
of (short) time (15-30 seconds) then it makes a LOUD
CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK (about 5-10 times) then will pause
for a few seconds and do it again. I left the truck at a friends
house (where I was when this happened) so I can trailer it home.

The truck has the original manifold and carb, which I have been
researching on replacing anyways, so as it is now, I plan on having
the heads rebuilt (roller rockers? yes or no?), replacing the
intake manifold and carb. Is there anything else I should replace,
since the thing's going to be torn apart? I plan on ordering most
of the parts through Summit (as they seem to be the most
reasonable.) I'm hoping to spend
the Edelbrock head and $217 on the Holley 4 bbl carb. I'm figuring
about $200-$250 / head to rebuild.

Any of this sound crazy? This is my first time... I'm just trying
to do my homework before I make a move.

Thanks!!!
Adam Hicks
Ft. Worth, TX

'77 F150 460 Red/White/Red long bed single cab
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:06:20 -0600
From: "Dennis V Witthuhn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke

How about the pcv valve and such is it hooked up? Also how many miles since
the rebuild some ring sets take awhile to get seated and you will see some
slight oil smoke until they do.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Justin Farcas
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke


>Yeah, most of those I figured could be it, but you know, it seems real odd
>for it to be that, since it was a newly rebuilt engine. It's odd,
>because it doesn't happen all the time, and hte only time I do see
>whitish smoke is when I tap the throttle real low, when it's about 1000
>rpm's, nothing. Internal engine probs are a definite possibility, but
>it's just odd because This engine has not been run hard or anything....
>Could it have anything to do with not sucking in enough air from the air
>cleaner? Thanks for your help....
>
> Justin
>
>
>> > From:
>
> Justin
>Farcas > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil/Smoke
>> Date sent: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 12:03:20 -0500 (EST)
>>
>> > week. This engine is about 2 months old, after being professionally
>> > rebuilt. The only leak that is visible is the oil pan screw. The
truck
>> > has normal oil pressure, but after is warms up, I can tap the throttle
a
>> > little and se some whitish/kind blue smoke.
>>
>> Poor hone job, incorrect cylinder to piston match, broken ring, bad or
>> missing valve stem seals or poor guide refurbishing.... but if it looks
like oil
>> and smells like oil then.............:-( Rnn, don't walk, back to the
builder and
>> show him what you have. If he's honest he will help you, otherwise you
have
>> my sympathy and now know why I learned to do everything myself :-(
>>
>>
>> Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>
>
>--
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:09:40 -0600
From: "Dennis V Witthuhn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I hate the sound of broken metal in a head!

sounds like a vavle problem my 79 with a 400m did that and after
replacing a couple bent pushrods the rockers and the cam and lifters, turned
out to be a bad valve guide.
- -----Original Message-----
From: adam.hicks ppctx.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 5:31 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I hate the sound of broken metal in a head!


>
> Oh how I love(d) my '77 F150 460cid... I was driving it down the
> road a few days back, and something in the head decided to break.
> I wish I knew more about it, but I can tell you the symptom and
> maybe you can recommend an action...
>
> When I now start the engine, it will run smooth for a random amount
> of (short) time (15-30 seconds) then it makes a LOUD
> CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK (about 5-10 times) then will pause
> for a few seconds and do it again. I left the truck at a friends
> house (where I was when this happened) so I can trailer it home.
>
> The truck has the original manifold and carb, which I have been
> researching on replacing anyways, so as it is now, I plan on having
> the heads rebuilt (roller rockers? yes or no?), replacing the
> intake manifold and carb. Is there anything else I should replace,
> since the thing's going to be torn apart? I plan on ordering most
> of the parts through Summit (as they seem to be the most
> reasonable.) I'm hoping to spend
> the Edelbrock head and $217 on the Holley 4 bbl carb. I'm figuring
> about $200-$250 / head to rebuild.
>
> Any of this sound crazy? This is my first time... I'm just trying
> to do my homework before I make a move.
>
> Thanks!!!
> Adam Hicks
> Ft. Worth, TX
>
> '77 F150 460 Red/White/Red long bed single cab
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 21:40:05 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - split vote opinion

Forwarded for: Don

I currently s*bscribe to 2 ford lists and as you can see by the date below
i am trying to catch up to reading this list..as Gary sez....if you WANT to
you can sunscribe to all the lists. as far as filtering messages via
headers....how many times do people NOT switch subject header and talk
about somthing else???
I have had many times were i was just ready to uns*bscribe because i can't
keep up with all the posts and pre '73 has no interest for me as my rigs
are 78 F250 and 79 bronco. IF i could keep up with the bronco and 73-79
list then i might think about adding other lists.
a hearty PLEASE split the lists..
THANKS for the great work Ken!
Don
At 09:04 PM 10/26/98 -0500, you wrote:

>Gary, 78 BBB [gpeters3 ford.com]
>
>>Perhaps but if you want all the info then you s*bscribe to all three. Those
>>who only want to see info on their own truck can have less mail traffic and
>>>will in that case be more active and more likely to stay on the list.
>

>Bottom line. I'm voting NO SPLIT!
>
>Now back to our regularly scheduled discussion.
>Bryan Kirking
>66 Step Side
>352 4 speed
>Houston, Texas
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html....

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