61-79-list-digest Thursday, October 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 503



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - C6 W/AOD or a manual 5spd
FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves
FTE 61-79 - TE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust Manifold Removal on FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Sway Bars
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Sway Bars
FTE 61-79 - Engine rebuild Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - TE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves
FTE 61-79 - Window felts
RE: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
FTE 61-79 - Low Compression
FTE 61-79 - Redline for FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - HOLLEY CARB 2nd-DAIRY PROBLEM
Re: FTE 61-79 - TE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine rebuild Question
FTE 61-79 - C-6 AOD
FTE 61-79 - hood latch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Broken Exhaust Bolt
FTE 61-79 - truck body swap
FTE 61-79 - Re: nomex/Uniboby Big Window?
FTE 61-79 - ignition switch cores
FTE 61-79 - exhaust bolts
Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 W/AOD or a manual 5spd
FTE 61-79 - 5.0, 83, feed back carb or EFI??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - exhaust bolts
Re: FTE 61-79 - hood latch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - 5.0, 83, feed back carb or EFI??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine rebuild Question
FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Cap Orientation
FTE 61-79 - Re Weatherstripping
FTE 61-79 - Politics/76 turn signal
FTE 61-79 - Weatherstripping
Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly
Re: FTE 61-79 - hood latch
FTE 61-79 - Fwd: For all of us wrench tuners or GEARHEADS
FTE 61-79 - 302 Clicking
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 Clicking

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 07:07:13 -0600
From: David John
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C6 W/AOD or a manual 5spd

- - Jerry writes: > I could also reuse the tranny mount on the AOD
- -put
- -in.
- - (C-6 w/OD)
- -
- - I sure would be interested in one of these myself... Where'd you get
- - it???
- -
- - Azie - -
- - The mount is not that hard to find. You should be able to find
- -it most
- -anywhere. Although I reused my original mount from the T-18, I found
- -replacements at Pep Boys and NAPA. They practically fit most every
- -model
- -of the older Ford cars and Trucks. I'm surprised with all of the work
- -you
- -have done that you would have a problem with this. Let me know if you
- -need
- -any more info !

- -Jerry


Jerry and the rest of list,

I can't speak for Azie (I don't think anyone can), but I'm more
interested in the c6 with AOD, what did you get it out of and how did
you get it bolted up? How is the overdrive activated, is it only by
vacuum or is electronic.

Does anyone know if it is possible to put in a more modern auto with
overdrive in a 79 4x4 with a 460 (which has casting year of '81)?

Will it bolt up to the 205 transfer case, or is the transfer case
different?

How about the 5 speeds out of newer (late 80's) 1 tons, again will they
bolt up to the motor and or transfer case?

I'm looking for a little better fuel economy, along with less RPMS while
ripping down the freeway.
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:32:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves

Well gang(s) after 52 years I finally got a chance to take my proportioning
valve apart and also peruse the service manual for the break down schematic
etc. and have a few bits of insight to share :-)

The discussions of retention kanootin valves for the front disc brakes have
basically gone over my head and fell on the floor somewhere in the back of
my closet but I'm taking a whole new interest in the notion since I discoverd
this thing actually exists and is really simple and easy to understand. The
proportioning valve on the 78 vintage (perhaps many others) has three basic
jobs to do:

1..The rear brake has one inlet and one outlet which are "moderated" by a
"proportioning" valve which basically causes a "balloon" affect to occur
when brake is applied in that it allows the fluid "space" to expand slighly but
reaches a point of no more give at which point you can apply full pressure
but apparently this is enough to let the front brakes work a bit harder and
softens the application of the rear brakes while still allowing full activation at
some point.

2..The front brake has a "kanootin" valve that allows three inlets to it from
the same direction but separate. The center one is the MC inlet and the other
two each go to one caliper. It is basically a "disk" valve which covers all
three holes and pressure from any one of them will lift it and allow flow to
the other two holes so the center is the inlet and the other two are outlets to
the wheels. By varying the spring pressure you vary the resistance to fluid
being pushed back from the calipers to the MC but it is not a "Check Valve"
as I originally thought, it simply resists the back flow so that the pistons are
not "easily" pushed back and therefore stay close to the rotor and give a
much better pedal feel or firmer pedal on the first push. Without this valve
in the system you have to pump the brake to get more pedal. Don't ask how
I know this :-(

The pull pin only relieves this resistance which should not restrict normal
bleeding techniques but may trap air bubbles in the valve if it is not pulled all
the way out when bleeding. It should also pretty much prevent "gravity"
bleeding of the calipers if not pulled out if I understand it's operation
correctly.

3..There is a spool valve or sealed pin with a detent in it's middle which
connects the first two items and if one looses pressure the pin or valve is
pushed toward that side and the detent pushes up a brass pin which makes
contact with the electrical pins to the brake warning light. The design should
allow normal operation to re-center it but a few quick, hard pumps may be
necessary to do this. There is no physical, external way to access this valve
and the schematic does not show any springs on it. If nothing else works
you could probablly take it off and bang it on the bench to cause the pin to
shift. On mine there was no return spring on the contact pin but I may have
dropped it when taking it apart, not sure. Seems like it would need one
though so I may put one on before I put it all back together.

On the bronco, 4wd, there are two wheel flex lines and only one "axle" flex
line so one of the front wheel outlets is plugged at the factory but still there
and usable. My next quest will be to obtain an additional Superlift flex hose
from RTC and run separate lines to the proportioning valve to allow each
caliper to act within it's own free play space which should have a good effect
on the pedal feel. Having only one will be an improvement but separatating
them further should render even more improvement. I'll let you guys know
how the experiment goes :-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:03:51 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - TE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson

NUTCH11 aol.com wrote:
who is allen jackson

Country and Western Singer. Very popular in that venue. Wrote a song called
"Crazy bout a Mercury" and has been used by Ford as "Crazy bout a Ford
Truck".

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:06:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?

From: "Jay Grover"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
Date sent: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:07:12 -0500

> Anyone have any tips for re-installing the shift lever into a T18 4-speed?
> I don't have any idea what gear the trans is in right now, either. Yep, I
> know I should have paid attention when I pulled it out. I guess I was
> preoccupied with how I was going to put the trans back in by myself!
> (those things are monsters even without the bellhousing!)

If it's at all like the Np 435 then you have a ball shaped tip on the end that
engages the shifting forks and a semi ball it rides on in the top of the tranny
with a cup that you press down and rotate to lock in place. The lever can
only go where it's supposed to on the np435 so it's a no brainer, when it
drops in it's in the right place :-) I found that the spring was easier to over
come with the tranny in 4th gear and easily put it together with my fingers
where in neutral I couldn't even get close due to spring pressure. I just
shifted into each gear while watching the position of the cap and noticed it
dropped a tad in 4th so tried it.

Hope this helps.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:18:32 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> From: "Jay Grover"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
> Date sent: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:07:12 -0500
>
> > Anyone have any tips for re-installing the shift lever into a T18 4-speed?
> > I don't have any idea what gear the trans is in right now, either. Yep, I
> > know I should have paid attention when I pulled it out. I guess I was
> > preoccupied with how I was going to put the trans back in by myself!
> > (those things are monsters even without the bellhousing!)
>
> If it's at all like the Np 435 then you have a ball shaped tip on the end that
> engages the shifting forks and a semi ball it rides on in the top of the tranny
> with a cup that you press down and rotate to lock in place.

It's close to NP435, but instead of pushing down and roatating, you
have to put shifter in, slide smal pin inside of top of tranny cover (to
keep shifter from rotating, and then screw on top which is threaded.

The lever can
> only go where it's supposed to on the np435 so it's a no brainer, when it
> drops in it's in the right place :-)


With the T-18, you can actually get the shifter in without it being in
any gate, especially if you had it in a gear before you put the shifter
in.

OX
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:20:17 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust Manifold Removal on FE

_ Ballinger [ballingr ldd.net] wrote:
>> Get a good tight socket or box end
>>wrench on the bolt and put torque on it

If you are using a socket, it is also good practice to use as short a distance
between the bolt heand and socket as possible. In other words, don't use deep
sockets or extensions or drive adaptors. This helps prevent applying wierd
shear forces or out of plane moments to the bolt head.

If possible, I suppose it would be better to use a T handle wrench (like a tire
iron) so that the forces would cancel each other and only the torque needed to
turn the bolt is applied. But I dont think theres any way to get a T handle into
the space needed to remove the exhaust manifold bolts. That is probably why
Gary has good luck with an impact wrench.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:31:06 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>

> 2..The front brake has a "kanootin" valve that allows three inlets to it from
> the same direction but separate. The center one is the MC inlet and the other
> two each go to one caliper. It is basically a "disk" valve which covers all
> three holes and pressure from any one of them will lift it and allow flow to
> the other two holes so the center is the inlet and the other two are outlets to
> the wheels. By varying the spring pressure you vary the resistance to fluid
> being pushed back from the calipers to the MC but it is not a "Check Valve"
> as I originally thought, it simply resists the back flow so that the pistons are
> not "easily" pushed back and therefore stay close to the rotor and give a
> much better pedal feel or firmer pedal on the first push. Without this valve
> in the system you have to pump the brake to get more pedal. Don't ask how
> I know this :-(

I'm glad I didn't follow your lead then and tube the front disc
straight off the MC with the adj prop valve for the rear ;-).
Interesting how the Ford Motorsport rear disk kit I got for my Capri
says right in the instructions to gut the prop valve and use the adj
rear prop valve they give you. The only thing I gutted was the center
part (spool valve) so I wonder if the "disk" (or something like it) is
still in there.

The place I bought my rear disks for the Bronc said the stock prop
valve had a small residual pressure check in the rear lines and to leave
that alone to allow the rear discs to keep contact with the rotors.


> The pull pin only relieves this resistance which should not restrict normal
> bleeding techniques but may trap air bubbles in the valve if it is not pulled all
> the way out when bleeding.


Hmmm..... I have never pulled this out when bleeding thinking it was
mainly just to open up the passage a tad more. Maybe I'll try it.

It should also pretty much prevent "gravity"
> bleeding of the calipers if not pulled out if I understand it's operation
> correctly.

Not on mine, I can gravity bleed all day without touching it.

> 3..There is a spool valve or sealed pin with a detent in it's middle which
> connects the first two items and if one looses pressure the pin or valve is
> pushed toward that side and the detent pushes up a brass pin which makes
> contact with the electrical pins to the brake warning light. The design should
> allow normal operation to re-center it but a few quick, hard pumps may be
> necessary to do this. There is no physical, external way to access this valve
> and the schematic does not show any springs on it. If nothing else works
> you could probablly take it off and bang it on the bench to cause the pin to
> shift. On mine there was no return spring on the contact pin but I may have
> dropped it when taking it apart, not sure. Seems like it would need one
> though so I may put one on before I put it all back together.
>
> On the bronco, 4wd, there are two wheel flex lines and only one "axle" flex
> line so one of the front wheel outlets is plugged at the factory but still there
> and usable. My next quest will be to obtain an additional Superlift flex hose
> from RTC and run separate lines to the proportioning valve to allow each
> caliper to act within it's own free play space which should have a good effect
> on the pedal feel. Having only one will be an improvement but separatating
> them further should render even more improvement. I'll let you guys know
> how the experiment goes :-)

Guess I'm not following this part since your running back to the same
spot anyway, unless you think the single line is a restriction of some
sort vs having 2 lines from the prop valve.

OX
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:17:00 -0600
From: Doug_Brodie oxy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Sway Bars

Yo Jeff! Can you tell me about how the sway bars are mounted on the truck? Is
your mounting hardware included with the bars? I've got a '79 F250 4X4 Supercab
that I plan to eventually get a bed camper for. Did you replace your sway bars
or simply remove them? How did it affect the handling?
Thanks a bunch.
Doug
Midland, TX
Doug_Brodie OXY.com



- -----Original Message-----

i have a set of factory sway bars off of a 1978 f250 4x4, anyone interested?

jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:17:00 -0600
From: Doug_Brodie oxy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Sway Bars

Yo Jeff! Can you tell me about how the sway bars are mounted on the truck? Is
your mounting hardware included with the bars? I've got a '79 F250 4X4 Supercab
that I plan to eventually get a bed camper for. Did you replace your sway bars
or simply remove them? How did it affect the handling?
Thanks a bunch.
Doug
Midland, TX
Doug_Brodie OXY.com



- -----Original Message-----

i have a set of factory sway bars off of a 1978 f250 4x4, anyone interested?

jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:39:05 -0500
From: "Matthew R. Schwartz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine rebuild Question

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE031F.F83A6A80
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have run into a problem with my 460 rebuild..at least I think I have. =
I got a engine kit from PAW. I installed the new crank and main bearings =
without difficulty. The crank easily turned by hand smoothly 360 degrees =
and thrust was good. Then I installed the new piston/ ring set. =
Compression rings were checked for gap and all checked well above .010 =
and less the .020 at 3/4 cylinder depth. The pistons were installed with =
no hangs in the piston travel down the cylinder to the final =
installation depth, although some seemed a bit tighter then others by =
the pressure needed to push the piston down. Now with the pistons and =
rods and crank installed, I cannot turn the engine over with the heads =
removed. I am about to remove the piston/rod set from the crank to start =
over and investigate.

Is this prudent, or is there something else I should check prior to =
disassembly?=20

Thanks!

- ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE031F.F83A6A80
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>



I have run into a problem with my 460 rebuild..at =
least I=20
think I have. I got a engine kit from PAW. I installed the new crank and =
main=20
bearings without difficulty. The crank easily turned by hand smoothly =
360=20
degrees and thrust was good. Then I installed the new piston/ ring set.=20
Compression rings were checked for gap and all checked well above .010 =
and less=20
the .020 at 3/4 cylinder depth. The pistons were installed with no hangs =
in the=20
piston travel down the cylinder to the final installation depth, =
although some=20
seemed a bit tighter then others by the pressure needed to push the =
piston=20
down.  Now with the pistons and rods and crank installed, I cannot =
turn the=20
engine over with the heads removed. I am about to remove the piston/rod =
set from=20
the crank to start over and investigate.
 
Is this prudent, or is there something else I should =
check=20
prior to disassembly?
 
Thanks!

- ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE031F.F83A6A80--

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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 06:38:14 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - TE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson

Thanks for your message at 08:03 AM 10/29/98 -0600, bkirking bcm.tmc.edu.
Your message was:
>NUTCH11 aol.com wrote:
>who is allen jackson
>
>Country and Western Singer. Very popular in that venue. Wrote a song
called
>"Crazy bout a Mercury" and has been used by Ford as "Crazy bout a Ford
>Truck".

Actually he didn't write it. It was done previously ( and I believe
written by) Steve Miller. I have a copy of the tape in my 1962 Unibody w/
big window and 351C (FTE content).
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:51:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?

From: luxjo thecore.com
Date sent: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:18:32 -0500
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?

> With the T-18, you can actually get the shifter in without it being in
> any gate, especially if you had it in a gear before you put the shifter
> in.

WAY NOT COOL! I see why the Np435 has so many admirers. The one I
got from Rick has a curlycue shifter that comes out at a different angle and
won't work on my truck without some major surgery but my shifter fit right
in and has exactly the same size and shape below the cap but the new one
has this neat second part that allows for "O" rings to "pad" the shifting
which I wanted to try out. I may make the necessary changes and give it a
try. It's actually the same forging as mine but they cut off part of the end,
cut two "O" ring grooves in it and made a separate part to fit over the end,
held in with a roll pin. Looks like a nice idea, have to check it out one day :-)

Mine is just a solid chunk of iron all the way through. Apparently the "head"
or semi ball it rotates around is upset in a cold header of some kind and it an
integral part of the shifter.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:53:48 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves

>On the bronco, 4wd, there are two wheel flex lines and only one "axle" flex
>line so one of the front wheel outlets is plugged at the factory but still
>there
>and usable. My next quest will be to obtain an additional Superlift flex
hose
>from RTC and run separate lines to the proportioning valve to allow each
>caliper to act within it's own free play space which should have a good
effect
>on the pedal feel. Having only one will be an improvement but separatating
>them further should render even more improvement. I'll let you guys know
>how the experiment goes :-)
>
>
I think I understand what you're saying here, but I'm not sure your logic
is quite right ... by adding flex lines (rubber hoses I assume) you'll
actually introduce a bit of elasticity into the system, which may make the
pedal feel worse. Rubber acts like ... well a rubber hose when you step on
the brakes, it will allow the hose to balloon a little bit and therefore
allow some sponginess in the pedals. As with all hydraulic system's, it is
recommended to use the pipe as far as possible and use as little rubber
hose to reduce the amount of flex they introduce. If however you're
talking about stainless braided lines, well that's another story ....


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:50:51 -0600
From: Albert Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Window felts

mARTIN: tRY j>c> wHITNEY i GOT SOME FOR ABOUT 30 BUCKS. fwiw

aL
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:44:13 -0500
From: "Jay Grover"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?

Thanks for all the tips, guys. After I got the shift gates all lined up, it
was breeze. What I didn't realize was that the little shifter pin (that
keeps the shifter from rotating) was MIA. After freaking out for about ten
minutes trying to figure out where I could get (or make) a new one, I calmly
started looking around. I lifted up the board that I had been laying on in
the driveway, and there it was. If anyone needs any spare luck, give me a
call!
In the T18, there are *many* different ways to get the shifter in, without
it being correct (mainly weird angles to the north and south of the gates)!
Ford isn't kidding when they say "extremely low 1st gear" in the T18. I
scaled my wheel chocks from off idle (forgot to move them in the ecstacy of
getting the truck to move again!).
Now, on to the donut gasket on the passenger's side exhaust. I've been
following the rusty bolt thread, so I'm armed and dangerous :-)

Jay

>
> Jay Grover wrote:
> >
> > Anyone have any tips for re-installing the shift lever into a
> T18 4-speed?
> > I don't have any idea what gear the trans is in right now, either.
>
> Take a flashlight and shine it down in there. You will easily be able
> to tell what part of the shift gates are where. You can put the shifter
> in and move whatever gear you need to, to get it back to nuetral. After
> you get all three gates lined up, then you can put the shifter in with
> the spring and the shifter pin.

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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:45:10 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Low Compression

John La G. writes: >>Starting in the 1971 model year, all passenger
cars and light trucks were required to be able to burn low lead gasoline.

I thought that was beginning with the '72 MY - not '71.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:49:34 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Redline for FE

Dan writes: >>Anybody know the approximate redline for FE360/390 engines?


Most will top out around 5500 RPMs if they are not GT or CJ. Some a bit
lower. The hydraulic lifters/cams in most FE's are such that around
5000-5500RPM's they kind of go flat - reach their limit - or however you
want to put it. That is one of the wonderful longevity advantages of the
FE. It kind of takes care of you not overrevving it.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:50:33 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves

Date sent: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:53:48 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves

> I think I understand what you're saying here, but I'm not sure your logic
> is quite right ... by adding flex lines (rubber hoses I assume) you'll
> actually introduce a bit of elasticity into the system,

I've heard this and believed it for a while but I'm not convinced any more that
the "flex" is significant. I have stock rubber hose on the PU and the brakes
feel like stepping on a cement block and the bronco with stainless braided
lines feels like stepping on one of those burning bags someone left on the
front porch on Holloween night.............:-(

It's all relative I suppose but the teflon lined braided hose has such a small
diameter that it easily matches the strength of the largest steel lines in the
system so is seldom the weak link IMHO :-) They may offer better life and
slightly better stiffness over the stock rubber lines but I don't believe the
average guy can tell the difference. Rubber lines are braid reinforced too
but you can't see it.


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:55:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - HOLLEY CARB 2nd-DAIRY PROBLEM

From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - HOLLEY CARB 2nd-DAIRY PROBLEM
Date sent: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:35:08 -0500

> Question is now, where does the diapraghm gets its vac signal to open
> up ? (The linkage unlocks OK at part throttle so it must be a vac thing,
> huh ?) What is the next thing to look for ?

Internally and there are seals between that can leak and cause it not to get the
signal so you may want to open it up and make sure the parts are sealing.
The diaphram needs to be in good condition also. If there are any cracks or
pinholes it won't work.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 07:56:26 -0800
From: "sam weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - TE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson

he didn't write it though.
I know Steve miller recorded it years ago.
-srw
- -----Original Message-----
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
Date: Thursday, October 29, 1998 6:09 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - TE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson


>NUTCH11 aol.com wrote:
>who is allen jackson
>
>Country and Western Singer. Very popular in that venue. Wrote a song
called
>"Crazy bout a Mercury" and has been used by Ford as "Crazy bout a Ford
>Truck".
>
>Bryan Kirking
>66 Step Side
>352 4 speed
>Houston, Texas
>
>
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>

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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:01:43 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?

Jay Grover wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the tips, guys. After I got the shift gates all lined up, it
> was breeze. What I didn't realize was that the little shifter pin (that
> keeps the shifter from rotating) was MIA. After freaking out for about ten
> minutes trying to figure out where I could get (or make) a new one,

I didn't have one, but my local Ford dealer actually did. I ordered 4
more, so I should be set for life :-)

I calmly
> started looking around. I lifted up the board that I had been laying on in
> the driveway, and there it was. If anyone needs any spare luck, give me a
> call!
> In the T18, there are *many* different ways to get the shifter in, without
> it being correct (mainly weird angles to the north and south of the gates)!
> Ford isn't kidding when they say "extremely low 1st gear" in the T18.
6.32 in the T-18. I had to give up some gear when my 435 crapped out.
The 435 is 6.68 first. Either way, very "creepy" ;-)

OX
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:02:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine rebuild Question

From: "Matthew R. Schwartz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine rebuild Question
Date sent: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:39:05 -0500

> needed to push the piston down. Now with the pistons and rods and crank
> installed, I cannot turn the engine over with the heads removed. I am
> about to remove the piston/rod set from the crank to start over and
> investigate.

If you mean by hand, you won't be able to but if you mean with a standard
1/2" breaker bar on the nose bolt then you may have a problem. You should
be able to turn it with a breaker bar, fairly easily but it will resist any effort to
turn it by hand without some leverage. There's a lot of friction in the
cylinders and it's supposed to be that way on a fresh engine.

With vibration damper in place or flywheel you should be able to get some
movement by hand but the easiest way is to install the damper bolt and use a
breaker bar. With this set up it should move fairly easily, maybe 20-30 ft/lbs
of effort.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:03:42 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 AOD

Jerry writes: >> Jerry writes: > I could also reuse the tranny mount on
the AOD I put in. (C-6 w/OD)

I sure would be interested in one of these myself... Where'd you get
it???

Azie - -
The mount is not that hard to find. You should be able to find it
most anywhere.



YO Jerry: I was being a smart alec..... I wand a C6 w/OD - not the mount.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:04:00 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hood latch

Well, gang, Henry has developed a new trick. When I shut the hood, some how
the spring that is supposed to bounce it open slides off of its perch and
jams down between the radiator and the frame. I have the area padded so
there is no danger of puncturing my new radiator. (I can hear SWMBO now:
You have a hole where? In the new radiator?) Has anyone run across and
solved this problem already or am I on the Enterprise again?


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:10:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Broken Exhaust Bolt

Date sent: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:28:29 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Broken Exhaust Bolt

> best way to get that bolt out while they are tore all apart? Could I heat
> the head up, then ezy-out it? Or will it just have to be drilled and
> re-tapped? Thanx.. :)

You can try "prick punching" it out with a sharp narrow center punch and
light ball peen hammer but this requires some patience and if it broke due to
the threads rather than some other factor you won't be able to budge it this
way.

Drilling will require carefully centering the drill on the bolt, not it's apparent
center but it's real center and step drilling untill some threads are begining to
show. At this point you can take that same punch and carefully "pick" the
threads out without damage if you have centered the hole well. I used to do
this for a living and had about 50% success depending on the shape of the
part I was working on and how well I could set it up for a straight hole etc..
With good centering and straighness I had almost no failures this way.

In any case the more care you take in drilling it out the more likely you will be
able to either get it out without damage or be able to use a helicoil in it which
is a better choice than tapping to a larger size or plugging and tapping.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:18:18 EST
From: DR11AGON aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - truck body swap

Hey,
I own a 1978 f150 supercab 4x4. The body and bed are trash, i want to find
out if i can mount the body and bed off of a 1980 or later f150 supercab on my
frame. Any info would be helpful.
Thanx
Derek
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Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 14:14:28 -0600
From: Bill Adams
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: nomex/Uniboby Big Window?

I'm just kinda wondering how to tell a _big window_ from a _little
Window_?

>I have one (short box) and the only other one I have seen (besides photos)
>was long box. I've never run across numbers indicating how many were made.
> If anyone has those numbers, I too would be interested in them. I have
>read they are very rare and people around here (Kennewick, WA) tell me that
>they are rare, but who knows?
>
>I just know I really like mine and will someday give it the paint job it
>deserves...
>1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C



Bill Adams
1966 F-100 Custom Cab, 352 V8, PS, AC, Long bed
1961 F-100 Unibody, 223 and a three on the tree!

The WoodButcher's Shop
"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/6640"

,.-----__
_ ,:::://///,:::-.
_| ~~. /:''/////// `` ::`;/|/
\, *_} /' ( Ford ) :://'`\
\( .' , |||||| `/( e \
-===~__-'\____ ```\_____/~`-._ `.
~~ ~~ `~-'
**************************************************************

**************************************************************


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:32:19 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ignition switch cores

Minor note: Before you attempt to replace an ignition switch core, please
disconnect the battery.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:36:04 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - exhaust bolts

I know no one ever intends to keep pulling their manifolds a bunch of
times, but....... What if you replaced the bolts with studs, then put on
nuts and lock washers? The penetrating oil could get to the nut real well
no matter how long it had been there. Just a thought.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:54:52 EST
From: A4T1RAT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 W/AOD or a manual 5spd

Yes many of these swaps are poss. you can use a E4OD or maybe the ZF 5
speed most of the trannys that were avail form Ford you can bolt a NP-205 to.
there is a company that makes a computer for the E4OD to go into any
car ruck...I can hear you guys now E4OD ! that trans sucks ! well there are
ways to make it work well .the trans is basicly a C6 with a Allison od. and
its the only trans for a 460 ,I have one in my 91 F-350 4x4 and the truck has
a blower 40" tires and I tow a 30' trailer with it about 8000 lbs and after
the mods I have had no problems it runs great and will chirp second if I get
on it . anyway hope this helps
Rat
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:56:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 5.0, 83, feed back carb or EFI??

What kind of intake system might I expect on an 83 crown vic with 5.0??
My ...........frie........budd...........well you know......has one and no choke
plate but it has an electric choke cap on it??? He says it's throttle body
injection, I say feed back carb??

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:30:43 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves

>I've heard this and believed it for a while but I'm not convinced any more
>that
>the "flex" is significant. I have stock rubber hose on the PU and the brakes
>feel like stepping on a cement block and the bronco with stainless braided
>lines feels like stepping on one of those burning bags someone left on the
>front porch on Holloween night.............:-(
>
I wasn't real convinced either, til I was driving our tempo ... thought
they seemed a little spongy, but all the air was out of the lines....next
day my sister blew the old line out ... it had a weak spot in it and that
was causing it. Generally you're probably right, Joe average isn't going
to notice it (she didn't until she flew over the curb).

Warning to everyone with older vehicles from this incident, CHECK THE HOSES
REGULARLY! I replaced 4 this summer alone. Dad said he's never touched
one and he's been working on cars a lot longer than I have (duh there I
suppose). Anyway seems like the rubber got cheaper over the years or
something changed (the cars were 87 and 89, so not that old)


As for the Bronco not having the stiff brakes, have you checked the MC and
made sure all the air is out of all the lines ? I can't stand spongy
brakes, and I HATE the new ABS Ford has, you press down till it engages,
then it drops the pedal another inch ... I know you're not supposed to pump
abs, but what's your reaction when the pedal drops suddenly ?


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 12:39:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - exhaust bolts

Date sent: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:36:04 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - exhaust bolts

> I know no one ever intends to keep pulling their manifolds a bunch of
> times, but....... What if you replaced the bolts with studs, then put on
> nuts and lock washers? The penetrating oil could get to the nut real well
> no matter how long it had been there. Just a thought.

It's going to get warm in here but...........studs are ALWAYS BETTER!
BTW, if you go to the trouble of taking it apart and don't use anti-seize when
you put it back together then you DESERVE all the agrivation :-) If, OTOH,
you do use anti-seize religeously you will be the guy everyone else askes for
help because you won't EVER have any trouble with your stuff and they will
worship you because only gods can have it that easy :-)

You are absolutely right, nuts are a lot easier to get off under any
circumstances and studs are a lot easier to get out than flush broken bolts
any day :-) (assuming you used anti-seize on them of course :-))

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 12:48:17 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - hood latch

Date sent: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:04:00 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hood latch

> so there is no danger of puncturing my new radiator. (I can hear SWMBO
> now: You have a hole where? In the new radiator?) Has anyone run across
> and solved this problem already or am I on the Enterprise again?

Yup, I took an old dana 44 axle seal guide and welded it to the radiator
support where the spring hits. The cup shape of the seal snout is sufficient
to force the spring to stay in line. There was a small lip there initially, now
it's about 1" higher :-)


Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 12:53:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves

Date sent: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:30:43 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes, performance and Proportioning valves

> I wasn't real convinced either, til I was driving our tempo ... thought
> they seemed a little spongy, but all the air was out of the lines....next
> day my sister blew the old line out

Well I was comparing new lines not new stainless to old rubber :-)

> then it drops the pedal another inch ... I know you're not supposed to
> pump abs, but what's your reaction when the pedal drops suddenly ?

I don't know, mine goes to the floor anyway........no place for it to drop to :-)



Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:35:59 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 5.0, 83, feed back carb or EFI??

At 05:56 AM 10/29/98 , you wrote:
>What kind of intake system might I expect on an 83 crown vic with 5.0??
>My ...........frie........budd...........well you know......has one and no
>choke
>plate but it has an electric choke cap on it??? He says it's throttle body
>injection, I say feed back carb??
>

If it says Electronic Fuel Injection on the side of the car its probably
throttle body ... Seems like my g'ma's old crown vic was the same way ...
might have even been the same year.

Personally not a big fan of TBI, but I'd guess thats what he has ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:10:26 -0800
From: Jason Eaton
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine rebuild Question

Make sure you didn't mix the connecting rod caps. This would cause
this much tightness.

> Matthew R. Schwartz wrote:
>
> I have run into a problem with my 460 rebuild..at least I think I
> have. I got a engine kit from PAW. I installed the new crank and main
> bearings without difficulty. The crank easily turned by hand smoothly
> 360 degrees and thrust was good. Then I installed the new piston/ ring
> set. Compression rings were checked for gap and all checked well above
> .010 and less the .020 at 3/4 cylinder depth. The pistons were
> installed with no hangs in the piston travel down the cylinder to the
> final installation depth, although some seemed a bit tighter then
> others by the pressure needed to push the piston down. Now with the
> pistons and rods and crank installed, I cannot turn the engine over
> with the heads removed. I am about to remove the piston/rod set from
> the crank to start over and investigate.
>
> Is this prudent, or is there something else I should check prior to
> disassembly?
>
> Thanks!

- --
Jason Eaton CyberSource Corporation
Phone: (408)260-6044 Senior Software Engineer
jeaton cybersource.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cybersource.com
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 12:10:57 -0500
From: "Matthew R. Schwartz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Connecting Rod Cap Orientation

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0060_01BE0335.2F85CB00
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Am I correct in assuming that cap orientation should be that the cap =
bearing notch should be on the same side of the connecting rod bearing =
notch?

- ------=_NextPart_000_0060_01BE0335.2F85CB00
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>



Am I correct in assuming that cap orientation should =
be that=20
the cap bearing notch should be on the same side of the connecting rod =
bearing=20
notch?

- ------=_NextPart_000_0060_01BE0335.2F85CB00--

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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:32:18 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re Weatherstripping

"Martin Carter" Wrote:
I'm looking for door weatherstrip and window channel (the felt stuff that
the window slides in) for a '74 F100.
Has anyone come across a better (cheaper) source?
TIA
Marty
============================
Marty,
Get an Auto Krafters catalog, they advertize on the web page.

>From their catalog

Door weatherstrip (gasket around outside edge of door seals door to cab)
99.95/pr
Beltline Weatherstrip (inside and outside seal at bottom of window)
49.95/pr
Door glass run weatherstrip (felt seal from top front corner of window
across top of window and down back edge) 24.95/EA
Divison bar run weatherstrip (felt seal from top front corner of window
straight down front of glass next to vent) 24.95/pr

No, I don't work for them, but I have found their catalog to be a great
source of the seals and other hard to find stuff we need to restore our
trucks. They also list the Ford part numbers when available.

Tom H.
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:37:19 -0800
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Politics/76 turn signal

"we had better pay attention to a little politics
Any comments are appreciated."

Let's not go there,this list seems like the only place around
where I don't have to see/hear politcal ads,debate or other B.S.
I have not missed a election since I've been eligible to vote and
I'm interested in politics,but not here at FTE.

"My E150 van had a hole in the column under the cylinder. To replace
the cylinder, I turned the key to "ON" and pushed a small screwdriver
into
the hole, which releases a pin that holds the cylinder in."
A van must have a different column than a F series .On my 76F-250 you
have
to pull the steering wheel and replace the turn signal switch to get the
turn
signals to c*ncel.
To replace switch
1 Pull Steering wheel 2 Using a small screwdriver,wire etc. unclip
each wire
from plug at bottom of column 3 Tie a piece of bailing wire to all
the wires
at bottom of column 4 remove switch 5 Tie wires from new switch to
bailing wire
and pull into column 6 plug wires into plug 7 install switch and
wheel
Wheel MUST be centered exactly for signals to c*ncel
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 12:54:13 -0500
From: "Rogers"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Weatherstripping

Marty, I would check w/Mac's Antique auto parts, Dennis Carpenter
Reproductions, and JCWhitney. This is where I got my rear window molding,
door channel kits, and door weather-stripping respectively for my
1970 F100. I think that they have kits for your vintage.

Websites are: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.macsautoparts.com/ ,
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ and
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.edmund.com/edweb/JCWhitney/catalog.html

I hope this helps.

Rogers Morris, Jr
'70 F100 (Stripped, waiting for paint, floor pans, new interior, new rubber,
and wheels)

I'm looking for door weather-strip and window channel (the felt stuff that
the window slides in) for a '74 F100. My local Ford dealer dows stock the
parts BUT the total for two doors and their windows (not even the vents) is
over $280. I'd like new rubber for the ND winter, but I can buy a REALLY
nice coat for that. Has anyone come across a better (cheaper) source?
TIA
Marty



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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 12:18:46 -0600
From: Rick Sullivan
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly

>If you want to go with square headlights, then go with a '78 or '79.
>But the front assemblies will work from a '73 or '74 ford (cant >remember which), though '79. If you get it from a '78, look around, >half the year was round, and the other holf square.. :)

In '78 all F series models had the square headlights except for the
base Custom model which had round. In '79 the Custom also got the
square headlights except with argent trim around them instead of
the chrome the Rangers and up had.
Rick
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 16:03:42 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - hood latch

> Well, I've been there and done that. I just fiddle with the
>spring until I got it to work again!! The spring is held on, if I recall
>right, with a screw and a little tab. I had to bend my spring a little
>bit (or maybe I rotated it) to get it to work. If that doesn't work, just
>try getting a new one out of a boneyard. Good luck and let me know how it
>goes!! CYA.
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Daniel H. Jenkins Food for thought: John Milton
>djenkins honors.unr.edu wrote _Paradise_Lost_;
>When his
>Honors Program wife died he wrote _Paradise_
>University of Nevada, Reno _Regained_...

Thanks. I'll mess with it this weekend sometime.

- -John

Sorry, I had to send this to the list, too. I am having connection problems
this pm. JL

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 17:08:44 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: For all of us wrench tuners or GEARHEADS

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Here you go guys, Tasteful Funnies

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From: FLR150 aol.com
Return-path:
To: blevins1 itexas.net, JUMPINFORD aol.com, cduncan hfm.com, DREWLTIME aol.com,
sidney1 CLDS.NET, cheaplx hotmail.com, SOHC351 aol.com,
Musttanguy aol.com, Psycohtic1 aol.com
Subject: For all of us wrench tuners or GEARHEADS
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 13:34:21 EST
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"You might be a racer if ..."

You take your helmet along when you go to buy new eyeglasses

You feel compelled on a road trip to beat your previous best time.

You are happiest when your street car's tires are worn to racing depth
(wear bars showing).

When something falls off of your car, you wonder how much weight you just
saved.

When you hear 'overcooked it,' instead of food you think 'off the track.'

You change engine oil every other week.

You sometimes hear little noises from your passengers when you get on the
throttle right after turning in.

You thoroughly enjoy showing the tailgater behind how to drive around a
highway offramp.

Your racing budget is one of the big three mortgage, car
payments/maintenance, dating.

Your email address refers to your race car rather than to you.

You walk proper lines through the grocery store.

You've paid $4.00 a gallon for gas without complaining.

You buy new parts because you don't know where you put the spares.

You bought a race car before buying a house.

You bought a race car before buying furniture for the new house.

You're looking for a tow vehicle and still haven't bought furniture!

You find that you need a new house because you've outgrown your garage and
the neighbors are threatening violence if you park one more vehicle on the
street or in the front yard.

The requirements you give your real estate agent are (in order of
importance):
1) 8 car climate controlled garage with an attached shop.
2) Outside parking for a motorhome, a crew cab dually, a
28'enclosed trailer and a 34' 5th wheel.
3) 3 phase 220 V outlets in the garage for your welder.
4) A grease pit.
5) Convenient to a hazardous waste disposal site.
6) Deaf neighbors.
7) Across the street from a paint and body shop.
8) Some sort of house with a working toilet and shower on
the property somewhere or hookups for the motorhome.

You measure all family acquisitions in terms of the number of race tires
that could have been purchased.

You know well that Orthodontic work is the equivalent of
three sets of tires

You sit in your race car in a dark garage and make engine noises and
shift, while waiting for your motor to get back from the machine shop.

You look at the purchase of tools as a long term investment.

Your garage holds more cars than your house has bedrooms.
You have enough spare parts to build another car.

More than one racer supply house recognizes your voice and greets you by
name when you call.

You have car parts in your cubicle at work.

You think the last line of the Star Spangled Banner is: "Racers,start your
engines!"

If you can't remember when you last worked on weekdays
and rested on weekends.

You're registered for wedding gifts at Summit Racing Equipment.

Your Christmas list begins with another set of Dunlop slicks and Wiseco
pistons
(and your 'significant other' knows what these are).

After your answer to "What did you do this weekend?" the next question is
always: "And you do this for fun? Right?"

You have a separate drawer for 'garage clothes'.

Your reading material in your bathroom consists of car parts and racing
supply catalogs, several books written by famous drivers, every book Keith
Black has ever written, and 400 car magazines, none of which have
centerfolds.

People know you by your race number and car color.

People know you by your "off"s."

You talk to other cars on the road, calling them by the
manufacturer name.

Your first date involves asking her to crew for you.

Your criteria for selecting a significant other include
auto repair skills. Air tools optional.

Your friends don't recognize you without a helmet and driving gloves.

Your family remembers your hair color as "grease."

You plan your wedding around the race schedule.

You astound the clerk at Sears by bringing in a snapped
breaker bar every other week or so.

You remember the dates and details of every race you've ever been in, but
can't remember your phone number.

Your family brings the couch into the garage so they can
spend some time with you.

You complain when cars in front of you on highway offramps don't stay on
the line, causing your exit speed to drop.

A neighbor asks if you have any oil, to which you query,
"Synthetic or organic?" and they reply, "Vegetable or corn."

You give out Summit Racing's number when a friend asks
for the best hardware store.

You refer to the corner down the street from your house as "Turn One."

You look at the fire hydrant at that corner and see an
apex marker.


You always late apex the intersection and try to pass a few cars coming
out.

Everywhere you go, you try to find the fastest line through the turn.


You will gladly pay up to $8 for a quart of engine oil.

You've ever tried to convince your wife you needed that flow bench to fix
the air filter on her station wagon.

You save broken car parts as " momentos."


You've found your lawnmower runs pretty good on 108 octane gas (but doesn't
particularly care for alcohol).

The local tire shop won't honor the treadlife warranty on any car you've
been within 50 yards of...

The shop manager at your local car dealer mutters "dear Lord" under his
breath after he sees the size of your exhaust piping.

The local police and state Highway Patrol have a picture of your car taped
to their dashboard.

You spend more time polishing your exhaust tip every day than you do
bathing.

Instead of pictures in your wallet, you have timeslips.

White smoke coming out from under your tires is a common sight.

You consider the redline a "conservative suggestion" and the rev limiter "a
fun limiter"

You spend more on insurance premiums than on food.

Your idea of a good time is sitting around figuring out
gear ratios and the ideal final drive ratio for given situations.

You have racing shops programmed on your speed dialer.

You own five cars and only one of them is street legal.

....


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