61-79-list-digest Thursday, October 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 502



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Weatherstripping
FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust Manifold Removal on FE
RE: FTE 61-79 - split vote opinion
FTE 61-79 - ID plate and wiring diagram
FTE 61-79 - ID Plate and Wiring Diagram
FTE 61-79 - sb hotrod
FTE 61-79 - 360/390 redline
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 redline
FTE 61-79 - 360 Ex Manifolds.
FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly
Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly
RE: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly
FTE 61-79 - 240/300 intake manifold options.
FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly
Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembl
FTE 61-79 - More power
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?
FTE 61-79 - '67 A/C conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - More power
FTE 61-79 - Brake booster???67-72?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly
Re: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust Manifold Removal on FE
FTE 61-79 - Steering column levers (& differences on export f100s)
FTE 61-79 - Got the springs!
FTE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Sway Bars
FTE 61-79 - CUSTOM TRANNY- MOUNT ? ?
FTE 61-79 - VOTE FOR NEW LIST
FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967
FTE 61-79 - HOLLEY CARB 2nd-DAIRY PROBLEM
FTE 61-79 - 2WD Body lift...
RE: FTE 61-79 - Steering column levers (& differences on export f100s)
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD Body lift...
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: SoCal Pickups
FTE 61-79 - Voting
FTE 61-79 - Broken Exhaust Bolt
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967
FTE 61-79 - FE Exhaust manifold removal
FTE 61-79 - seats from 98 f550
FTE 61-79 - power valve steering updated
FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust Manifold Removal on FE

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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 07:20:49 -0600
From: "Martin Carter"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Weatherstripping

I'm looking for door weatherstrip and window channel (the felt stuff that
the window slides in) for a '74 F100. My local Ford dealer dows stock the
parts BUT the total for two doors and their windows (not even the vents) is
over $280. I'd like new rubber for the ND winter, but I can buy a REALLY
nice coat for that. Has anyone come across a better (cheaper) source?
TIA
Marty

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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:01:46 -0600
From: "Jamey Moss"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust Manifold Removal on FE

John Strauss wrote:

> I must replace the exhaust manifold gaskets and one manifold on my 1968
> with 360 FE engine. I know these engines are bad about breaking off
> exhaust bolts in the head. Can anyone offer advice as to how best to
> prevent this from happening? I am looking for any tips you can offer to
> get these bolts, which I am pretty sure have not been out since the Ford
> boys put them in at the factory, out of the head in one piece. TIA.

Another thing I've heard is to get the engine to operating temperature
before trying to loosen them, but I didn't have that luxury on the one I
just tore down. I sprayed penetrating lubricant on them for several
days, then used a long breaker bar, and proceeded to snap a few off.
Then I gave up on the breaker bar and tried the impact wrench on the
rest and they all came out no problem.

Of the ones that broke off, three of them were flush with the head and
will need to be removed by the machine shop, and two of them had enough
sticking out that a pipe wrench got them out (after more penetrating
oil).


Good luck,

Jamey
ra4001 email.sps.mot.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.prismnet.com/~jamey/f100/
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:26:01 -0500
From: "Kenny Realph"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - split vote opinion

I Agree with what Bryan wrote, I'm voting no split also.

Kenny Realph
1966 F100 240I 1v
E-Mail: krealph hotmail.com


Gary wrote

>Perhaps but if you want all the info then you s*bscribe to all three.
Those
>who only want to see info on their own truck can have less mail traffic and
>>will in that case be more active and more likely to stay on the list.

Bryan wrote

I have slowly learned as a member of the list that just because something
doesn't seem
to apply directly to my truck, the content is most often helpful.
Especially discussions of
mods from any year, while they don't specifically apply, often help me to
think about what
will be involve if I can do such a mod on my truck. A case in point is
electronic ignition. I
didn't realize that I could upgrade my points system to EI until I followed
some of the
posts for an older series truck. Now I realize there is a limit to this, I
wouldn't want to
spend a lot of time reading about 90's truck content cause I think thats a
little to far
removed, but a "series" above and below my truck series seems pretty
reasonable.

Additionally, as FE parts become harder to find, it is very helpful to know
that I can look
in early 70's trucks to get engine parts for my 66. Case in point, I
recently found all the
brackets and pulleys I needed for an AC retrofit from a 70's truck. This
was after
literally, months of trying to find something from a late 60's car or truck.
This is
something I may have never known if the list stopped at 66.

Yes, there is a lot of mail. But I don't think its that hard to delete
messages from threads
that I don't have an interest in. My email will even sort by subject, I can
then select all
messages under a subject and deleted them with one key stroke.

Bottom line. I'm voting NO SPLIT!




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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:50:27 -0500
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ID plate and wiring diagram

Hey, folks.

I am getting ready to do some major tearing down and putting back together of my '68 F-250 Camper Special. Restore might be too strong a word, but we'll see how it turns out. I have been collecting a few parts. Thanks to John Strauss for those elusive front fender marker lights. I have a couple of questions for the list.

1. Location of the ID plate? My Chilton's says driver's side cowl under the hood. No luck. Not even an outline of where something used to be. Somewhere else I should look? Inner fenders have been replaced. Did my truck have a sordid past that she's not telling me about?

2. I am thinking about a rebuilt long block from one of the many rebuilders. How important is a number match on the engine? Do I forever shoot my chances at the concours d'elegance? But, then again, if I wanted a concours truck, this is probably not the one I'd start with.

3. It has the stock steel wheels. I have always thought a wheel upgrade would improve the appearance greatly. Any suggestions? What was available from Ford in '68?

Thanks in advance.

Doss
'68 F-250 Camper Special, Ranger trim
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:00:59 -0500
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ID Plate and Wiring Diagram

Sorry, I forgot to ask the question about the wiring diagram. I would like to troubleshoot the ammeter, but I don't know where it is supposed to attach to out under the hood. Anyone have a wiring diagram or a partial to get me started that they would be willing to fax or mail?

Thanks,

Doss
'68 F-250 Camper Special, Ranger Trim
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:20:11 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - sb hotrod

Bill Ballinger wrote:

>It's really sad that in '70 Ford finally built what I always wanted, a
real bread and butter factory small-block hot rod, but they only did it
for a year or two AFAIK.

Bill,

Ford wasn't the only one who quit. The 1970 model year was the last for all
premium leaded fuel engines. Starting in the 1971 model year, all passenger
cars and light trucks were required to be able to burn low lead gasoline.
Compression ratios, HP, performance, and everything else dropped but price.
If you find two engines from any manufacturer that are identical except for
one being made in 1970 and the other in 1971, the 70 will outperform the 71
in every category. Your tax dollars at work. You can thank the US Congress
for this one. It wasn't Ford's fault.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:06:23 -0700
From: dan & Cheryl Ledford
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 redline

Anybody know the approximate redline for FE360/390 engines?

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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:17:03 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390 redline

At 09:06 AM 10/28/98 , you wrote:
>Anybody know the approximate redline for FE360/390 engines?
>
Probably around 6000 ... Seems like max power was rated (for the Mustangs
anyway) at 5250, so as long as your gears aren't too far apart you
shouldn't need more than that. Seems like people we talkin about bent
pushrods if you went too far over 6 ...

Boy do they sound interesting at that rev too :)


Bill
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:27:14 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (_ Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 Ex Manifolds.

The top bolts are the problem, the bottom ones should be OK. You're
probably going to break one or two anyway, but here's how I do it.

For a week or two before you plan to pull it, spray Liquid Wrench on the
top bolts on both sides. (front and back)Also spray the heads on the
bottom ones. Do this every day for at least a week, preferably two.
This works especially well if you drive it everyday, because it will
cause the juice to penetrate even better.

When it comes time to break them loose, be patient. Warm up the engine
to operating temp, and use leather gloves. Take a hammer and hit the
bolt bosses a few good licks each. Get a good tight socket or box end
wrench on the bolt and put torque on it as if to tighten it, then
reverse and loosen, like rocking your truck out of a snowbank. If you
feel the head stretch you're usually screwed. It's a 3/8 in bolt so
about 30-40 lbs ft should be all it can take, less if it's been
stretched before. If you put more on it, it will break. That's why you
have to be patient and take it up to about 30 lbs ft forward and back
(along with a few hammer blows on the boss) until it frees up. If it
doesn't free up this way go on to the next bolt. Don't get frustrated
with it and break it off.

After getting all of the top bolts out that will come out, you'll have
to get a torch and heat the bolt boss up and try it again. It is
strongly reccomended to pull the head and do it on the bench. This can
be very dangerous and in some cases impossible to do in-chassis. If you
are well experienced with a torch and feel confident that it can be done
with absolute safety, then read on. If not, you must pull the head.

Get everything that can get hurt out of the way, cover the carb with
something (non-flammable) substantial enough to stop the passage of all
fumes, and clean the whole head area and nearby to be sure there's
nothing to flame up. Power steering fluid, trans fluid, brake fluid
will all burn, if you can't get all of it off and isolate your angle of
flame sufficiently, forget it, and pull the head. Pull the battery and
get it far away. If you're on the same bank as the fuel pump, pull it
off along with sufficient supply line to be sure it is far enough away
(at least 3 ft from any accidental angle of the torch), and block it off
with a good tight plug. Let it sit over night to allow all fumes to be
evacuated.

I ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE DUE TO THE
USE OF THIS PROCEDURE IN-CHASSIS. I STRONGLY RECCOMEND PULLING THE HEAD
AND PERFORMING THE PROCEDURE IN A SAFE, FLAMMABLE-FUME FREE AREA. I've
only outlined the in-chassis procedure to point out the risks involved,
and what marginal safeguards MAY in some cases make the procedure
feasible for an experienced operator.

- -> I must replace the exhaust manifold gaskets and one manifold on my
1968
> with 360 FE engine. I know these engines are bad about breaking off
> exhaust bolts in the head. Can anyone offer advice as to how best to
> prevent this from happening? I am looking for any tips you can offer to
> get these bolts, which I am pretty sure have not been out since the Ford
> boys put them in at the factory, out of the head in one piece. TIA.
- -
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:50:19 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly

Hi everyone, I own a 76 F100 and would like to know if it is possible to
swap the grill and head light assembly (round head lights) with another
model years grill and head light assembly that has rectangular head
lights. If pssible what year would be the best to go for on appearence
wise.

Thanks
Kirk Baillie
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:12:30 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly

At 09:50 PM 10/28/98 , you wrote:
>Hi everyone, I own a 76 F100 and would like to know if it is possible to
>swap the grill and head light assembly (round head lights) with another
>model years grill and head light assembly that has rectangular head
>lights. If pssible what year would be the best to go for on appearence
>wise.
>
I have a 73 Cab with a 79 grille in it, everything seems to work fine, its
kind of expensive though, so unless you really really want the square
lights or are in need of a grille badly ....

If you want to see it, check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/truck/truck.html


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:15:47 -0800
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly

In my humble opinion, I like the looks of the '79 best. Correct me if I'm
wrong...
'78 and '79 are the only ones with rectangular headlamps.
Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kirk Baillie
> Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 1998 7:50 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly
>
> Hi everyone, I own a 76 F100 and would like to know if it is possible to
> swap the grill and head light assembly (round head lights) with another
> model years grill and head light assembly that has rectangular head
> lights. If pssible what year would be the best to go for on appearence
> wise.
>
> Thanks
> Kirk Baillie
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:17:15 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 240/300 intake manifold options.

I've been reading and participating in the list for a while now in
preparation of restoring/rebuilding my 66F100. I have been seeing on the
list references about changing the intake manifold on the 240/300 from the
1-barrel to a 2 or 4 barrel. What are we talking about? If this is a
viable upgrade for the straight 6 I want to know more about it.

John Gillespie
San Diego
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:07:12 -0500
From: "Jay Grover"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?

Anyone have any tips for re-installing the shift lever into a T18 4-speed?
I don't have any idea what gear the trans is in right now, either.
Yep, I know I should have paid attention when I pulled it out. I guess I
was preoccupied with how I was going to put the trans back in by myself!
(those things are monsters even without the bellhousing!)

TIA, Jay

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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 13:53:39 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly

If you want to go with square headlights, then go with a '78 or '79. But
the front assemblies will work from a '73 or '74 ford (cant remember
which), though '79. If you get it from a '78, look around, half the year
was round, and the other holf square.. :)

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4 460

At 11:01 AM 10/28/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Hi everyone, I own a 76 F100 and would like to know if it is possible to
>swap the grill and head light assembly (round head lights) with another
>model years grill and head light assembly that has rectangular head
>lights. If pssible what year would be the best to go for on appearence
>wise.
>
>Thanks
>Kirk Baillie
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>


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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 13:55:19 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembl

Its not that exspensive. Even for bran spanking new ones from JC whitney,
on my '78 I was going to move to round headlights, I just like the looks
better. There not too exspensive.. :)

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 11:31 AM 10/28/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>At 09:50 PM 10/28/98 , you wrote:
>>Hi everyone, I own a 76 F100 and would like to know if it is possible to
>>swap the grill and head light assembly (round head lights) with another
>>model years grill and head light assembly that has rectangular head
>>lights. If pssible what year would be the best to go for on appearence
>>wise.
>>
>I have a 73 Cab with a 79 grille in it, everything seems to work fine, its
>kind of expensive though, so unless you really really want the square
>lights or are in need of a grille badly ....
>
>If you want to see it, check out
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/truck/truck.html
>
>
>Just my 2cents
>
>Bill
>
>Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
>'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
>'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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>


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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 13:43:37 -0600
From: "Eric Washburn"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More power

Hi. I have a 67 F100 Custom Cab. I was wondering how I can get more power
out of my 240 that has been bored 60 over with a 1bbl Autolite. Any help
would be appreciated.


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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 15:25:47 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tips for reinstalling shift lever?

Jay Grover wrote:
>
> Anyone have any tips for re-installing the shift lever into a T18 4-speed?
> I don't have any idea what gear the trans is in right now, either.

Take a flashlight and shine it down in there. You will easily be able
to tell what part of the shift gates are where. You can put the shifter
in and move whatever gear you need to, to get it back to nuetral. After
you get all three gates lined up, then you can put the shifter in with
the spring and the shifter pin.

OX
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 14:26:56 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '67 A/C conversion

Southerland, Rich [rsouther alldata.com] wrote:

>>This is my first post, so I hope I'm doing it right.

So far, so good.

>>We have a '67 F100 that we would like to add A/C to

Does someone make a kit that looks OE?

A/C kits are available from a varitey of places including Carolina Classics, Old
Air Products, and Vintage Air. New, indash A/C and heating kits run
about $1000. Underdash kits are considerable cheaper and are generally OE
for 67, although your application may be different. (Although I, personally, do
not like the thougtht of the box hanging below my dash taking up valuable leg
space).

If you are using old parts, don't forget that you will most likely be getting an R12
system.

>> What about the rubber floor mat, does anyone repro it?
I think several places do. Follow the links from FTE, the places I suggested,
and any others you can find and order some cataloges. Not only will you find a
mat, but lots of other parts you didn't realize you needed :-)


Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:57:36 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More power

Eric Washburn wrote:
>
> Hi. I have a 67 F100 Custom Cab. I was wondering how I can get more power
> out of my 240 that has been bored 60 over with a 1bbl Autolite. Any help
> would be appreciated.

A 2 or 4 bbl intake would be nice and a cam! I know next question where
to get them. Try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.racerwalsh.com
If you can't turn anything up with them let me know
Chris
94 Lightning
#381
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:41:49 -0500
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake booster???67-72?

While my truck is apart I want to do a power brake swap..
I have the dana 44 for upfront but my question is which booster
to use????I know the faq says 73-79..But are there differnt
length push rods from year to year????I know my manual rod in the 68 now
is adjustable but if i remember right the rod from the booster to the
pedal is not????If you have done this in a 4x4 67-72 truck I would like
to hear from you
Joe
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:58:21 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Swapping out grill and H.L assembly

Kirk-

I have a '78 with round headlights that I wrecked and bought a complete
grill setup out of a junkyard from a '73 to put on my truck, in which I
used the 76-77 amber turnsignals on. The only problem you will run into at
all is the headlight mounts that go to your core support. On '78 and '79
the headlights mounted higher on the core support with a different stlye
brackets which I had to drill holes lower to fit the ones from the '73.
You will have to do the exact opposite- You will need the mounts from a '78
or '79 (either round or square headlight model) and the only thing that
determines the type of headlight is the cups that goes in those mounts. (I
don't think those are too expensive from ford) With those new mounts you
will have to drill holes in your '76 core support opposite that I did.

My suggestion to you is to find a late '78 or '79 with the headlights you
are looking for in a junkyard and buy the headlight cups and mounting
brackets off of that core (or if yours is in bad shape, just the whole
thing) and do it that way. You will also get a larger opening for the
radiator with that too anyway! (added bonus))

(I recently went back to the '78 grill with round headlights. (which I
personally like the best!))

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 09:50 PM 10/28/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi everyone, I own a 76 F100 and would like to know if it is possible to
>swap the grill and head light assembly (round head lights) with another
>model years grill and head light assembly that has rectangular head
>lights. If pssible what year would be the best to go for on appearence
>wise.
>
>Thanks
>Kirk Baillie
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 15:02:41 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust Manifold Removal on FE

Another suggestion for stubborn bolts.
Apply a GOOD penetrating solution (WD-40 is not)
and get a hammer. Whoe there! Use the hammer
to get a small vibration going. Find and keep a rhythm,
apply some more good stuff. The vibration sets up
a harmonic vibration that allows the penetrant solution
to weep through the small openings better. Two parts
will have a slightly different harmonic, further breaking
the bond between them.

Best if applied over a period of time.
Apply penetrant, vibrate, let it sit, try removing, repeat.


Jeff
** Adapt ** Improvise ** Overcome **
'64 F100 CrewCab

** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **
At 10:20 AM 10/27/98 , someone wrote:
>I must replace the exhaust manifold gaskets and one manifold on my 1968
>with 360 FE engine. I know these engines are bad about breaking off
>exhaust bolts in the head. Can anyone offer advice as to how best to
>prevent this from happening? I am looking for any tips you can offer to
>get these bolts, which I am pretty sure have not been out since the Ford
>boys put them in at the factory, out of the head in one piece. TIA.

Bill responded:
I would suggest soaking them at least overnight with your favorite
penetrating oil. In addition a 6 point socket is definitely in order,
along with a lot of patience and strength. If you pull smooth and even
then things will go better, "popping" the bolt loose in any way will risk
fracture and breakage. Seems like I broke two of them off when I was
pulling mine off the first time (those were headers that had only been on a
couple of years too).
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:13:05 +1100
From: Simon
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering column levers (& differences on export f100s)

Howdy,

I'm in the process of repairing a '76 F100 I've just bought and will soon
be taking apart the steering column to change the ignition lock. While I'm
at it, I thought I might pay some attention to the levers on the column.
Both levers - gear and blinkers - are a bit loose and the blinker lever
does not auto-return or disengage itself after the steering wheel is turned
around a corner.

The truck is currently having its transmission rebuilt which I hope will
tighten the gear lever, however my main question is regarding the blinker
lever: do the blinkers in a '76 F100 auto-disengage? If so, then what part
will I need to replace to fix this? If not, is there a part I can mount in
the steering column to achieve this?

One thing I forgot to mention: it's an export F100 (I'm Australian so its
right-hand drive) and I don't know if there were any particular
modifications made to the standard setup for export. If anyone knows if
there were modifications introduced into F100s for export, could they let
me know so I can correctly describe the vehicle to US-based enthusiasts in
future? I prevail upon your wisdom, o list, in these matters.

Regards
- -Simon

||end transmission

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 15:11:18 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Got the springs!

Spent a productive couple of hours at the
wrecking yard this morning. Snagged the
front and rear springs off a '64 F100 longbed.

The U-bolts on the front were the biggest pain,
loads of time spent on these. Had to drive the
rear bolts out of the front springs. Front on front
came out easily.

The rear of the rear came off easily too. The front
of the rear was strange. Dad was on one side, & I
on the other. His comments "Well if the bolt doesn't
come off, we can just remove the bracket, a couple
of bolts are already loose". I looked at my side and
thought he was nuts! This bracket had rivets. At
some point in the trucks life the one bracket had been
replaced and bolted on! So that's what we did, remove
the whole bracket, I didn't need it, but now I have a spare.

The frame had a crack half way through on one side
and a welded up crack on the other. Lots of bondo
becoming evident, time to say goodbye to this one.
Overall the cab is still in good shape with a coupla
small holes in the floor (not rust).

The front grill, though primered, is in great shape,
ran out of time to get it. Anyone in the Sacramento
area need one? Drop me a line & I'll snitch on it's
location.

Now to clean 'em up, get parts/bushings etc, and
on to removing the springs from my truck!

Jeff
** Adapt ** Improvise ** Overcome **
'64 F100 CrewCab
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 18:28:09 EST
From: NUTCH11 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - exhaust manifold remove/ajackson

am wondering if running the engine getting it warm would help in removal of
exhaust manifolds on 360 fe????
the other thing, something about rewriting an allen jackson song??
who is allen jackson
thanks
nutch
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:11:25 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Sway Bars

i have a set of factory sway bars off of a 1978 f250 4x4, anyone interested?

jeff grant
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:11:22 -0500
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - CUSTOM TRANNY- MOUNT ? ?

Jerry writes: > I could also reuse the tranny mount on the AOD I put
in.
(C-6 w/OD)

I sure would be interested in one of these myself... Where'd you get
it???

Azie - -
The mount is not that hard to find. You should be able to find it most
anywhere. Although I reused my original mount from the T-18, I found
replacements at Pep Boys and NAPA. They practically fit most every model
of the older Ford cars and Trucks. I'm surprised with all of the work you
have done that you would have a problem with this. Let me know if you need
any more info !

Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW AC
1970 F100 (ret)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:16:29 -0500
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - VOTE FOR NEW LIST



>I'm going to suggest to Jason that we ought to have a 78/79 list and a
80 and up list and a "Big Brother" list and "Emissions" list and EFI list
and a Jerry
> list..........well, maybe not a Jerry list but..................:-)
>
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

Hey.......dont be so quick to be negative there, Garre. Hell........I'd
vote for it ! ! ! !

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:27:08 -0500
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967

> This is my first post, so I hope I'm doing it right.
* * * * Looks fantastic so far ! ! ! * * * * *

> We have a '67 F100 that we would like to add A/C to.
........... '68 has a control panel that will require cutting the dash,
which we don't want to do. > Was the '67 available with A/C originally?
Does someone make a kit that looks OE? What about the rubber floor mat,
does anyone repro it? Thanks for any advice or suggestions.
>

> Rich Southerland
68-72 F Series all had the same location for either heater controls or A/C
control in the center of the dash. Not sure about 67, but it may be the
same as 68. Anyway, my 69 heater panel was removed and replace with a
factory control lever panel from a 72 with AC and it was an exact
bolt-in....same nuts holding the panel to the dash even. You shouldn't
have to cut anything in the dash. Exactly what location do you want to cut
?
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW AC
1970 F100 (ret)


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:35:08 -0500
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - HOLLEY CARB 2nd-DAIRY PROBLEM

Thanks for the info supplied by yoos fellow Holley guys.
It is now readily apparent that the secondaries are just not working. No
sound, no rush of power, WOT, etc.
......and its not like I didn't get to know the feel and the sounds
intimately. Ive got a 15 gallon fillup receipt to prove the experiments !
Question is now, where does the diapraghm gets its vac signal to open
up ?
(The linkage unlocks OK at part throttle so it must be a vac thing, huh ?)
What is the next thing to look for ?

Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW AC
1970 F100 (ret)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:05:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2WD Body lift...

Has anybody out there tried putting a 2" or 3" body lift on their
2WD 73-79 Ford truck? I'm thinking about doing it to my truck for looks
and am wondering about what things I'm liable to encounter. I understand
that I can get away with a 2" kit easily. i.e. no modifications to
steering columns or shift linkages. I'd like to add a 3" kit, but I get
the feeling that I'm liable to have problems with the steering column and
the shift linkage. Can anybody recommend any brands? Thanks. BTW, my
truck is a 77 SUpercab shortbed... it's a 1/2 ton model. Thanks.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. Jenkins Food for thought: John Milton
djenkins honors.unr.edu wrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Program wife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno _Regained_...

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:17:35 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Steering column levers (& differences on export f100s)

Forwarded for: "Southerland, Rich"

There is a plastic piece in the column that cancels the turn signals, called
a c*ncel cam. They are available at most good auto parts stores and cost
about $12. The column does not have to come apart to change the lock (I
think). My E150 van had a hole in the column under the cylinder. To replace
the cylinder, I turned the key to "ON" and pushed a small screwdriver into
the hole, which releases a pin that holds the cylinder in. Took less than 5
mins. Have no idea how the RHD will change things.

Hope this helps.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon
> Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 1998 3:13 PM
> To: 'F100'
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering column levers (& differences on export
> f100s)
>
> Howdy,
>
> I'm in the process of repairing a '76 F100 I've just bought and will soon
> be taking apart the steering column to change the ignition lock. While I'm
>
> at it, I thought I might pay some attention to the levers on the column.
> Both levers - gear and blinkers - are a bit loose and the blinker lever
> does not auto-return or disengage itself after the steering wheel is
> turned
> around a corner.
>
> The truck is currently having its transmission rebuilt which I hope will
> tighten the gear lever, however my main question is regarding the blinker
> lever: do the blinkers in a '76 F100 auto-disengage? If so, then what part
>
> will I need to replace to fix this? If not, is there a part I can mount in
>
> the steering column to achieve this?
>
> One thing I forgot to mention: it's an export F100 (I'm Australian so its
> right-hand drive) and I don't know if there were any particular
> modifications made to the standard setup for export. If anyone knows if
>> there were modifications introduced into F100s for export, could they let
> me know so I can correctly describe the vehicle to US-based enthusiasts in
>
> future? I prevail upon your wisdom, o list, in these matters.
>
> Regards
> -Simon
>
> ||end transmission
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 18:46:02 -0800
From: Jason Eaton
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2WD Body lift...

The 65 I have has a 3" body lift on it. It was rather tricky to get the
steering column properly lined up. We ended up getting another piece of
metal that was about the same size as the plate which holds the column
against the fireall. We cut holes it and used it as a adapter to allow
the old bracket to bolted up easily.

The only other problems caused by it were the bumper/frame alignment
issues.
You need to raise the bumpers up about 2-3".

Hope that helps.

Daniel H. Jenkins wrote:
>
> Has anybody out there tried putting a 2" or 3" body lift on their
> 2WD 73-79 Ford truck? I'm thinking about doing it to my truck for looks
> and am wondering about what things I'm liable to encounter. I understand
> that I can get away with a 2" kit easily. i.e. no modifications to
> steering columns or shift linkages. I'd like to add a 3" kit, but I get
> the feeling that I'm liable to have problems with the steering column and
> the shift linkage. Can anybody recommend any brands? Thanks. BTW, my
> truck is a 77 SUpercab shortbed... it's a 1/2 ton model. Thanks.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Daniel H. Jenkins Food for thought: John Milton
> djenkins honors.unr.edu wrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
> Honors Program wife died he wrote _Paradise_
> University of Nevada, Reno _Regained_...
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
Jason Eaton CyberSource Corporation
Phone: (408)260-6044 Senior Software Engineer
jeaton cybersource.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cybersource.com
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:49:01 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: SoCal Pickups

Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts list members:

We have a new advertiser on our web site. Since the beginning,
our practice with web site advertisers has been to make a brief
announcement for 2 days (this is day 1 of 2). Please show your
appreciation to SoCal Pick-Ups for helping to support the web
site and the lists by checking them out (this is a temporary page
until they have their site up):

http://www.ford-trucks.com/socal.html

"SoCal Pick-Ups started over 25 years ago as the first restoration
parts business to focus soley on the 53-56 F-100's. Now, SoCal
is now under new ownership. With this new ownership there has
come a renewed emphasis in making sure SoCal is THE place to go
to get the help you need to successfully create the F-100 of
your dreams.

SoCal has made changes in all areas of their operation in order
to bring the best possible service to those rebuilding 1948-1966
F-100's. They have a new catalogue that is updated monthly with
new products, a new customer oriented computer system that keeps
track of every item ever purchased by a customer to enhance their
ability to provide personalized service, and even a few new
employees dedicated to making you successful with your truck
project."

We would like to you to let them know you heard about them via
the Ford Truck Enthusiasts group.

Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program...

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:51:47 -0600
From: Albert Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Voting

Digesters: Next week is voting. If we want to keep driving our
old and unusual vehicles we had better pay attention to a little
politics. My state has pretty much followed the line I would like with
regard to older vehicles but some of the Greenie crap is creeping in. It
seems to me that the canidates indorsed by the National Rifle Assn. are
also sensitive to our problems. I am not trying to tell anyone how to
vote where you live but please take a good look at some of these people
before you vote. Boxer in Calif. and Schumer in NY come to mind. There
are enough of us to make a difference if we get out and vote and educate
people that most of us are not wild hot rodders. Any comments are
appreciated.

Al
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:28:29 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Broken Exhaust Bolt

When I took off my passenger side manifold about 2 monts ago to change the
gasket, I broke a bolt off pretty much flush with the head. Now I need to
take them off again, change the studs and put in doughnuts. Whats the best
way to get that bolt out while they are tore all apart? Could I heat the
head up, then ezy-out it? Or will it just have to be drilled and
re-tapped? Thanx.. :)

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460


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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:43:29 -0500
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADDING A/C TO 1967

I know in 1967 you could get Dealer installed Air///I took A unit
out of a 67 it had the heater controls like an early Bronco ...
It has the fan and A/c controls on the unit itself.....
Joe
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:18:20 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Exhaust manifold removal

I changed a manifold on my truck this summer. I tried the penetrating
oil trick, soaked the top bolts daily for a week before i tried to
loosen them.
Anyway........final tally was 2 broken 14mm sockets...2 broken bolts
that had to be drilled...a handfull of busted drill bits...lots of new
four letter words.
I finally put it together leaving one bolt out. it seems to be holding
for now.
I did put lots of anti-seize on the new bolts *just in case*

Don Jones
'70 f-250 4x4 "FORDZILLA"
'85 f150 supercab *still* FORSALE

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 23:17:49 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - seats from 98 f550

i may have access to a couple of bench seats out of 98 f550 pickups, probably
around 300.00, they are nice, but they are gray in color.

jeff grant
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:49:18 -0500 (EST)
From: metalheaddude webtv.net (Paul Drozdowski)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power valve steering updated

if you have a power valve steering set up and want to update it. there
is a ad on WWW.DDTRUCKPARTS .COM ,go to (truck talk) click on it . go
down the page to the power steering ad that is dated 10/10/98 click on
it .it will seem like nothing happened but go down to the bottom of the
page and the ad is there.I hope this can help many of you out there with
the steering problem.








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