61-79-list-digest Sunday, October 18 1998 Volume 02 : Number 491



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Work, Lists and decisions......
Re: FTE 61-79 - '75 F100
FTE 61-79 - Re: Removing Paint from Chrome Dash
FTE 61-79 - Re: Volunteer Alien Abductions
FTE 61-79 - Revised FE Valve Adjustment Procedures
FTE 61-79 - Removing Paint from Chrome Dash/ Last year FMX?
FTE 61-79 - aux fuel tank not working
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Web site updates
Re: FTE 61-79 - A/C compressor
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: A/C compressor

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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 07:19:44 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Work, Lists and decisions......

Date sent: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 21:20:10 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Work, Lists and decisions......

> Forwarded for: "Gary, 78 BBB"
>
> Well gang(s), I'm going to be uns*bscribing soon to work on a new data

Darn, still can't remember to use the asky :-(

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 07:31:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '75 F100

Date sent: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 19:03:22 -0500
From: "Philip D. Glickstein"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '75 F100

> encountered an electrcal problem I can't solve. The truck was running
> fine and just died. I checked the fule, got it... air, getting it...
> fire, none!

When working on any ford dura spark system ALWAYS CHECK THE
PLUGS FIRST!!! The big rubber plugs on the module and the dizzy are
prone to losing contact when they age. Unplug them, fill the holes with
silicone grease (electrical dielectric type) and plug them back in........several
times to clean the corrosion off the pins.

Let us know what happens. In my experience the coil, module and dizzy are
the last place to look :-)

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 08:33:40 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Removing Paint from Chrome Dash

>On my '61, the dash section with the speedometer in it is painted white
>with a few parts left bare to let the chrome show through.

>My question is, how to do this without hurting the chrome underneath?
>Also, how can I clean up the sections that are currently unpainted,
>because they are showing some little rust spots.

Many ways to clean paint on something like this, and not hurt the chrome.
Some simple paint strippers are brake fluid and carb cleaner. Most versions
of these will strip paint in a heart-beat with minimum soak time or elbow
grease.
As far as cleaning up the chrome, any decent autoparts-store variety of
chrome polish will do nicely. You might wish to go to the trouble of
spending a little time with a small buffing pad on a Dremel tool for a piece
like this.

Jim E.



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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 08:50:21 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Volunteer Alien Abductions

From: Bill Ballinger
>Now, now, Deacon, just settle down. We aren't sure it's really Stu who
>said all of this. I think that aliens have abducted him and put a very
>sick, twisted clone in his place. This happens alot in Tennessee.

Hey, HEy HEY!!!! I take exception with the aspersions you cast on our
indigenous subculture!!! As a fellow (buzzz-nnkk) Tennessean, in Stu's
paternal absence I must (whirr-click) step to the defensive plate in his
stead. The incidence of alien abduction in this state has been
(brrrreeeen-niknik-clack) highly exagerated by the media, most of them
northerners that cannot tell (vrrrsss-ptppp) kudzu from a mutating seed pod.
If Stu was exhibiting unusual behaviour it was (bzzzznik) most likely the
effects of proximity to the accelerating hormonal dementia of the humanoid
maternal/spousal unit. He will be fully functional after a standard
regeneration cycle.

Azie. Please do not cut the seed pods off the southward moving Kudzu. We
would not like that.......

Jim E.



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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 13:16:35 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Revised FE Valve Adjustment Procedures

I dug out a Mitchell National Service Data manual that covers all years
of the FE. I have the reccomended procedures for loading and unloading
the rocker shafts, and checking the valve adjustment. They are a little
different (and more detailed, I used to just go by the valve positions
after I indexed it to #1) from the way I learned and shared with you the
other day, but this way is likely better and alot less trouble. I am
writing this from my own interpretation so that I don't violate any
copyrights.

Rocker Shaft Unload and Preload.

It is very important that the shaft be properly unloaded and reloaded or
your lifter preload will not be right, and even worse you could bend the
shaft.

Bring up #1 on compression to TDC, and go another 45 degrees around on
the damper to the "XX" mark. Loosen the passenger side bank shaft bolts
from rear to front 2 turns at a time until loose. (one refinement would
be to go out 1/2 at a time for the first couple, to three passes) Now
the drvers side bank is a little different, I've always done it the same
as the pass side, but the reason I've probably not hurt anything is
because I've only loosened the bolts a 1/2 turn at a time instead of 2.
Anyhow, on the drivers side loosen the bolts from front to rear 2 turns
at a time. Same as before a couple of 1/2 turn passes at first won't
hurt a thing.

To reload, bring the damper back to # 1 TDC, and reverse the procedure
for each bank. Go down 2 turns at time until you reach the specified
torque value. (I think it's 40 lbs.ft, but I didn't look it up) I'd do
that a little different though, I think as you got down to the short
rows, it would be better to go down 1/2 turn at a time.

To check the valve clearance, get the engine warmed up, (I think that
new lifters cold would be the same as long as you haven't pumped them
up) and bring the crank to #1 TDC compression. Check 1,3,7,8 intakes and
1,4,5,8 exhausts by pressing down the rocker arm until the lifter bleeds
down.(one at a time as you're checking them of course, the oil must be
hot, or the lifter not run before or you won't be able to bleed it all
the way down) Clearance should be between .100 to .200 for all but the
'65 to '67 352. The 352 is .050 to .150. If it isn't, then a longer
pushrod is necessary. My feeling is that on anything but the 352 .125 to
.150 should be the upper limit, and .100 to .125 on the 352. This
would assume that the lifter is capable of holding pressure, and if you
are turning the engine hard enough to cause hard pump-up you're using
anti-pump lifters. If one goes down when you compress them, alot easier
than the others then it will need replacing. Turn the engine 360
degrees and bring up #6 TDC and check #2,4,5,6 intakes and 2,3,6,7
exhausts in the same way to the same specs.

The thing that makes this way better is that it's alot less turning of
the engine, and you don't need a dial indicator. Also, you don't have
to know your lift specs. The way I first described is also a good way
that I learned from a little guy dirt-track racer years ago who ran the
hot CJ hydraulic cam because he couldn't afford the solid stuff. He
stayed under 6500 rpms and did just fine. But, I'm doing it the other
way from now on.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 11:19:04 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Removing Paint from Chrome Dash/ Last year FMX?

I don't think paint remover or carb.cleaner will hurt the chrome.

Parted out a 67 T-bird with a FMX in it.
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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 15:35:22 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - aux fuel tank not working

Les Hogan wrote:
>The aux tank gauge has never worked. When driving on the aux tank the
>truck works fine below 35 mph. At higher speeds the motor gets starved for
>fuel after about 5 minutes, so you switch back to the main. Seems like a
>clogged vent line. yet even though there is a charcoal cannister, there are
>no connections to it or lines routed from the tanks to the right frame side
>where they could go to the cannister.

I think the rubber fuel line can get soft and collapse under suction pressure too.

Just a thought,

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net

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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 17:36:44 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Web site updates

1. Clifford Performance added to Misc. Vehicles sites in links section.
2. Pictorial additions:
1950 F1
1953 F100
1959 F100
1967 F100
1977 F150
1979 F150
1983 F150
1985 F150
1987 F150 XLT
1998 F150 XL
1998 Ranger
1999 F250 SD
1999 F250 SD
3. Hydraulic Clutch Troubleshooting added to articles section.

Later,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 22:36:41 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A/C compressor

Is it running a A/C or running as a air pump, it seems like the vent would
let the oil into the lines if it was sitting on its side if it was running
as a air pump. But either way, thanks! You are the first person to tell
me that..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 01:27 AM 10/16/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>My 74 F-350 w/ 460 has the York compressor. It's laying on its side right
>above the power steering pump.
>
>Darrell Duggan aka JUMPINFORD AOL.com
>74 F-350 RangerXLT Super Camper Special "Tweety"
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>


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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 22:38:02 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: A/C compressor

Does it mount on the side of the power steering pump? If so, I would love
to buy the bracketry...

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 02:49 AM 10/16/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>On Thu, 15 Oct 1998, am14 chrysler.com wrote:
>>
>> Dayton B. writes: >>Does anybody know a place I can get some brackets to
>> mount the good old York compressor on my '78 F250. Its got a '73 Lincoln
>> cont 460 in it, with all the orginal mounting hardware, except the AC. Did
>> that year lincoln run a diffrent type of compressor, because i sure cant
>> find one.
>>
>> I'm not absolutely positive of this but I think all the 460's had the round
>> (GM) compressors. The very early 429's may have had the old York, and this
>> would be where to look if you wanted the York bracketry. All my 460's have
>> had the round type anyway, and I have them from '69 to late 70's.
>
>I bought a '72 429 with most accessories still intact and it had a York
>compressor. I might consider selling the bracketry, I still have it
>all. I took it apart so long ago it will be a wonder if I can remember
>any of it...
>
>Birken
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