Ford Truck Enthusiasts Email List Archives

















61-79-list-digest Thursday, October 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 487



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums
FTE 61-79 - Spreadbore ?s
FTE 61-79 - Gauges
FTE 61-79 - 61-79-list- Carter Web Site Address
FTE 61-79 - lifters and pushrods
FTE 61-79 - air conditioner brackets
FTE 61-79 - 61-79-list-FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?
Re: FTE 61-79 - lifters and pushrods
FTE 61-79 - air conditioner brackets
FTE 61-79 - lifters and pushrods
FTE 61-79 - re:RUST ARGH!!!!!!!
FTE 61-79 - Rear disk brakes
FTE 61-79 - Re: Spreadbore ?s
FTE 61-79 - vavle trouble
FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble
FTE 61-79 - newbie questions-60's truck
FTE 61-79 - 1961 Ford Pickup
FTE 61-79 - Another Carb question(s)
FTE 61-79 - AC Compressor Mounting Hardware
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble
Re: FTE 61-79 - Carter Web Site Address
FTE 61-79 - fan shroud
FTE 61-79 - Re: newbie questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble
FTE 61-79 - Caddie Steering Box/ Quarajets

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:05:00 -0500
From: Doug_Brodie oxy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums

Yup!!! I concur!!! Gary's explanation is dead on target!! Sorry if I misled
anyone.

Doug

- -----Original Message-----
From: "Gary Semelka Sr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums
Date sent: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 00:49:39 -0500


The reason they won't come off is due to a very tight fit on the center hub
and the shape of the drum at that location which will bind at the slightest
provocation. Rust adds to the problem but they will defy efforts to get them
off quite often when brand new due to the bind thing.
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:01:51 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Spreadbore ?s

Yo Gang:

There was some talk a couple days ago about Q-jets being OEM on some
'68-'71 Fords and I wanted to pass on a tidbit about something I ran across
in the boneyard yesterday. I saw a '76 Lincoln Mk IV that had a 429/460 w/
a cast iron factory spreadbore 4V manifold on it. There was no carb, and I
don't know what carb it was set up for, but those secondaries were some
mighty big honkers! The manifold casting number was D6AE-nnnn-A3A. Was
there another spreadbore (Holley or Motorcraft/Autolite) used on later big
blocks?

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:16:16 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gauges

I have had good luck the W/Sun tach. Autometer gauge set-up I'm
running We also have good luck w/ the S/W products in the equip. at
work.
My Autometers have black background white numerals and orange/red?
pointers and they are very easy to read night or day
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:53:06 -0600
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 61-79-list- Carter Web Site Address

>Been looking for the Carter website since I read your post. No luck. =
>Do you happen to know their web address?

Greg, I don't think that Carter is in business anymore. I think they were =
bought out by Edelbrock, which is why Edelbrock spreadbore, vacuum =
secondary carbs look almost exactly like a ThermoQuad without the phenolic =
resin bowl. I could be wrong on this too (I'm sure somebody will let me =
know if I am), but isn't the Edelbrock AFB (Aluminum Four Barrel) just an =
aluminum version of the old WCFB (Will Carter Four Barrel)??

High Plains Richard
'72 F-100
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 14:55:30 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - lifters and pushrods

I seem to be putting my big foot in a lot lately.

Brian,
Quit worrying about your pushrods being in the wrong place. I think you
grabbed one too many live spark plug wires. No, really, things will more
than likely be OK. It is better to put them back where they were, but not
required.

Now about adjusting lifters. If your rockers are on a shaft, you have
hydraulic lifters and no adjustment, so the question of adjusting if you
swap the pushrods around is pointless. If you have rockers on studs, then
you have to loosen them to get the pushrods out and you have to re-adjust
them when you put it all back together regardless of whether you use new
pushrods, old pushrods in the same place or old pushrods mixed up. Again,
the question of re-adjustment has only one answer.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, no more evidence of the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:03:07 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - air conditioner brackets

I visited the boneyard and got a replacement air conditioner bracket. Guess
what? FoMoCo automobiles have a larger compressor than pickups and a better
bracket system. My bracket that broke is the same, but there is an extra
triangular brace on the bottom that I don't have (didn't have). I may have
to go back and get another shelf for the compressor to sit on, too. I have
given up on converting to the A6 system for now. The PS pump and brackets
are different, the water pump is different and the air conditioning system
itself is different. Oh well, another bubble burst.

BTW, SWMBO will barely get in Henry, let alone attempt to drive him. Last
time she did, back in1990, he lost all braking capability. Luckily, she
wasn't going very fast.



- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, no more evidence of the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 14:17:38 -0600
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 61-79-list-FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?

>I have an Edelbrock carb, I didn't put it in it, it was installed when I
>bought it about a month ago. I had to install and inline fuel filter
>yesterday because I couldn't fine one to fit the carb. I think that it's
>running a bit rich, there's a hint of white smoke coming from one of hte
>pipes. =20

Just to clarify, white smoke doesn't come from running rich. If you are =
running rich the smoke will be black. My experience says that white is =
usually condensation or water. I don't know where you live (as in is it =
getting cold there?) but have you ran some "heat" through your fuel =
system? Since you haven't had the truck that long, it wouldn't be a bad =
idea. =20

High Plains Richard=20
'72 F-100
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:30:29 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - lifters and pushrods

>Now about adjusting lifters. If your rockers are on a shaft, you have
>hydraulic lifters and no adjustment, so the question of adjusting if you
>swap the pushrods around is pointless. If you have rockers on studs, then
>you have to loosen them to get the pushrods out and you have to re-adjust
>them when you put it all back together regardless of whether you use new
>pushrods, old pushrods in the same place or old pushrods mixed up. Again,
>the question of re-adjustment has only one answer.
>
Seems like we had this discussion once, but some of them that are on studs
don't need adjusted either ( I offer the 69 351W as an example, Dad tried
adjusting them and cracked a couple of the nuts because they're just
torqued down like those on a rocker shaft). I would suggest checking a
motor manual, they are usually pretty accurate, or maybe someone knows. My
360 was on a shaft, are all hydraulic FE's like this, or just some ?


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 16:08:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - air conditioner brackets

John LaGrone wrote:
> visited the boneyard and got a replacement air conditioner bracket.
...
>given up on converting to the A6 system for now. The PS pump and
>brackets
>are different, the water pump is different and the air conditioning system
>itself is different. Oh well, another bubble burst.

I can sympathize with AC bracket troubles. I ordered a bracket for my
retrofit AC and am still unsure if its the right one, or how to find out. I can't
feel too sorry for you though, 351's are a dime a dozen. Try doing it for
and FE!!
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 16:12:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - lifters and pushrods

John LaGrone wrote:
>grabbed one too many live spark plug wires. No, really, things will more
>than likely be OK. It is better to put them back where they were, but not
>required.
>
>Now about adjusting lifters. If your rockers are on a shaft, you have
>hydraulic lifters and no adjustment, so the question of adjusting if you
>swap

I have not grabbbbbbbbbbbbbed to many live wires,
my hair always stands up lllllllllllllike this ==(8^0
and I happen to like my nnnnnnnnnew ssssssssttuttttttter......

My rockers are on a shaft, and I am right now ceasing and desisting any
more worrying. Well, at least most of the worrying. Ok Ok, after I have a
few of Texas finest crafted adult beverages I'll quit worrying.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 17:28:16 EDT
From: "Jamie Stone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re:RUST ARGH!!!!!!!

Doug,


Alot of the solution depends on how rust much there is, and what you're
willing to do to take care of it. If it's just minor surface rust all
you'll have to do is: 1. Sand the area down to bare metal(80 grit paper)
making sure to remove all traces of rust. If the metal is pitted at all,
you may want to use a wire brush attachment in a drill. 2. Prime the
area with a good rust preventive primer. Make sure it is meant for bare
metal. Eastwood carries a few in spray cans, it's expensive($8.00) but
well worth it. Use a fairly heavy coat. 3. Sand the area again this time
with 220 grit paper. If the primer didn't fill the pits, use a glazing
putty(3M makes a few great ones). 4. Sand the area with 220 grit again
using a sanding block. Sand in diagonal directions and make sure to use
even pressure. 5. The area should be ready to paint. Plasti-kote makes a
line of spray paints designed to math the existing color of your
vehicle.(assuming your truck is still it's original color or you know
what the paint code is for the vehicle)

If the rust has eaten a hole through the metal I'd recommend you take it
to a REPUTABLE body shop. Avoid Maco I've seen quite a few bad
situations made worse by these shade tree apes. If any of this is
confusing, most libraries carry a few books on autobody/restoration.


Good luck!

Jamie
'70 F-100 short bed
'78 Yamaha RD400

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 17:35:26 EDT
From: "Jamie Stone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear disk brakes

I can't recall who it was, but SOMEONE wanted info on rear drum-to-disk
brake conversions. The Sept/Oct Summit racing catalog lists a kit for
the Ford 9 inch rear end. Their # is 1-800-230-3030.

Jamie
70 F-100 shortbed
78 Yamaha RD400

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 14:36:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Spreadbore ?s

Dave asked:
> Yo Gang:
>
> There was some talk a couple days ago about Q-jets being OEM on some
> '68-'71 Fords and I wanted to pass on a tidbit about something I ran across
> in the boneyard yesterday. I saw a '76 Lincoln Mk IV that had a 429/460 w/
> a cast iron factory spreadbore 4V manifold on it. There was no carb, and I
> don't know what carb it was set up for, but those secondaries were some
> mighty big honkers! The manifold casting number was D6AE-nnnn-A3A. Was
> there another spreadbore (Holley or Motorcraft/Autolite) used on later big
> blocks?
>

Yup. I've got one sitting on a 460 (mid-70ish) in my driveway. It's a
ford carb, Gary can (and will:-) fill in the details. Unfortunately,
someone broke one of the idle adjust circuits on mine (mixture screw
over--tightened, breaking through into throttle bore). Anyone have any
ideas on how I can fix it? Anyone in N. California need a 460/c6 complete
with all accessories? I was going to put this in my '70 F-250, but I've
decided I love my FE too much :-)

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 18:14:10 EDT
From: Dugnla aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - vavle trouble

can anybody tell me why my vavles rattle?
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 16:20:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble

Dugnla aol.com wrote:

> can anybody tell me why my vavles rattle?

Most Likely. But help us out a little first. What kind of engine? How many
miles? What kind of rattle, and when? Oil changed / checked recently? :-)

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 21:08:35 -0500
From: "kingster"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble

First check to see if you have oil pressure, oil level, and if all is okay
there then replace your lifters.

Kingster
- -----Original Message-----
From: Pat Brown
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, October 14, 1998 6:39 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble


> Dugnla aol.com wrote:
>
>> can anybody tell me why my vavles rattle?
>
>Most Likely. But help us out a little first. What kind of engine? How many
>miles? What kind of rattle, and when? Oil changed / checked recently? :-)
>
>Pat Brown
>Sebastopol, California
>
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 19:20:42 -0700
From: "bertolin"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - newbie questions-60's truck

> I've always loved 60's era Ford trucks... probably as a result of growing
> up in Texas, but I've only owned later models.
> Now I'm looking into buying a 60's era truck and I have lots of questions
for those of you in the know.
> Some of these questions will, I'm sure, sound boneheaded, but I am
> starting at zero and want to get educated before I dive in. I've never
> owned a vintage car (unless you consider a Ford Falcon vintage), so
> here's my list of totally subjective newbie questions:
> 1. If you could own only one 60's era Ford truck and you were planning on
> driving that truck regularly, which would you recommend?
> 2. Which model year (if any) is the most reliable?
> 3. Compared to modern trucks, how safe are these vehicles (ie... would
> you drive your kid around in one)?
> 4. When these trucks break how difficult is it to find parts? (LA)
> 5. Does anyone know where one would begin to look for these trucks in
> Southern California (LA)?
> 6. What is a fair price for 1964/65 F100 in good working order?
> 7. How hard is it to find trucks of this vintage in good working order?
> 8. Were trucks of this era equipped with automatic transmission (for my
> girlfriend)? If so, are these more difficult to find?
> 10. Is there anything else vital I should know?

I have a 1965 custom cab long bed that I love to drive. I don't have any
crash experiences with this truck but my guess is that it would fair better
than most of the newer vehicles driving around with the heavier sheet metal
etc. My truck has seat belts in it although shoulder belts would be nice and
of course no air bags. I guess it would depend on the type of wreck. I have
several parts catalogs that seem to have most everything that's not
available locally...doubt you would have any problem finding any parts. My
truck has the 3 speed manual but the owner's manual indicates that there was
a "cruis-o-matic" auto transmission...not sure how reliable or prevalent
this transmission was. Here is Southern Arizona, there are quite a few of
these trucks running around. From what I've seen, a daily driver runs ~
$1500.00 on the average, paying more for a really nice one. This is my first
manual transmission experience and I drive it with ease so if auto tranny
not available, I'm sure your girlfriend could handle a manual transmission.
The lack of power steering is what I have the most difficulty with. I can't
speak to the emissions situation in L.A. but here in Arizona, this vintage
truck is exempt from any of the smog/emissions testing. I like this truck so
much that I've had thoughts about selling my 1998 Japanese car. Hope this
helps. Roberta in Tucson, Arizona


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 22:10:30 EDT
From: FKVail aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1961 Ford Pickup

I just bought a 1961 P/U and am looking for advice on a number of items. I'm
not a Ford fan from way back (though I did have a '72 4WD some years ago) so
if anyone could educate me on the unibody and any do's or don'ts if I were to
restore this beauty, I'd like to hear any opinions offered.

Specific questions:
This P/U has a V8, possibly a swap, but it is old 'cause it's got a generator.
How can I tell what engine I have?
Any tips/advice on upgrading to an alternator?
She was originally two tone, torquoise and white. Where can I find a photo
for the lines of each color? It's in primer gray now.
Source of a wiring diagram? I see that "ford-trucks" diagrams start at 1963.
Any recommendations on parts suppliers?
Any other advice, pitfalls, etc?
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 21:29:07 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Another Carb question(s)

Okay,

So based on the recent posts about carbs I have a few questions of my own.
First off I have a stock '79 460 with the Ford (made by Holly) four barrel.
I have been told that this is a slightly redesigned carb to meet Ford specs
and that in many respects is a better carb then the original Holly it was
based on. Here is my set of questions. My truck (F250 Crew Cab) is running
rich. The Cat stinks like nuts when you come to a stop from highway speed.
I have tried to lean it out with the idle mixture screws and this helped
some but not enough. I know I am wasting gas and possibly ozone. How can I
adjust this thing to make it work better? Do I need to rebuild it? It has
115,000 miles on it. I also have a slight bog when you whack the throttle
all the way, then is picks up and goes fairly well. I have 3.54 gears in
the back and a fresh rebuild on the C-6. When I stomp on it good from a
dead stop I can't spin the tires unless they are on sand. Seems like I
should be able, to with even a beatup old 460, which mine is not it seems to
be in good shape! Should I swap out to some other carb? Give me some ideas
please!

Thanks,
- -B

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 22:39:00 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AC Compressor Mounting Hardware

Does anybody know a place I can get some brackets to mount the good old
York compressor on my '78 F250. Its got a '73 Lincoln cont 460 in it,
with all the orginal mounting hardware, except the AC. Did that year
lincoln run a diffrent type of compressor, because i sure cant find one.
Or, im just unlucky... :)

Another question, I recently posted about my rear-end leaking, the hub
seals and the pinion, I was told to un-clog the vent, it was clogged, so
I cleaned it out, hubs quit leaking, but pinion still leaks, its had 3
new seals overall, havent switched it since I un-clogged the vent
though, could it leaking as long as it has make mess up the seal
somehow??

Thanks,
Dayton B.
'78 F250 4x4, 460

Nose?! Thats not what I think...


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 23:08:19 EDT
From: Dugnla aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble

the vavles rattle when the truck reaches cruising speed what ever speed limit
maybe. it didnt start until after i changed the vac adv dia cause the old one
had died long before i bought the truck. if i disconnect and plug the vac adv
line then the rattle goes away put the truck runs like crap. the timing and
point gap have been checked. i keep the oil level checked and fullcause the
vavle covers leak and dont want to run it low of oil. any ideas?

dug
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:54:59 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Carter Web Site Address

Carter was bought by Federal Mogul in 1988. The URL is:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.federalmogul.com/replpart/fuelsystem.htm

- ----------
> From: Graves, Greg

> Been looking for the Carter website since I read your post. No luck. Do
> you happen to know their web address?
>

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 22:39:50 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - fan shroud

Does anybody know when Ford started putting fan shrouds on pickups? Mine is
a '67 and I don't think it ever came with one. With my new motor, I'm
pretty sure I'll be needing one.

TIA

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 23:37:15 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: newbie questions

On Tue, 13 Oct 1998, Raul Gutierrez wrote:
>
> I've always loved 60's era Ford trucks... probably as a result of growing
> up in Texas, but I've only owned later models.
>
> Now I'm looking into buying a 60's era truck and I have lots of questions
> for those of you in the know.
>
> Some of these questions will, I'm sure, sound boneheaded, but I am
> starting at zero and want to get educated before I dive in. I've never
> owned a vintage car (unless you consider a Ford Falcon vintage), so
> here's my list of totally subjective newbie questions:
>
> 1. If you could own only one 60's era Ford truck and you were planning on
> driving that truck regularly, which would you recommend?

By '60s era I assume you mean '61-'66. This is the most stylish cab
IMO. The truck I would most like for cruising would be a '66 F-100 long
box with a high performance 352 (you could stick a 390 in) and C6 auto.
I also really like the styling of a '61 unibody F-100.

> 2. Which model year (if any) is the most reliable?

I'm not sure if any are more reliable but the ones from the later years
definitely have more modern gear. If I had an auto transmission I would
stay away from the "FMX", some think it unreliable and it has little
parts support nowadays. The C6 is very strong. I'm not positive but I
believe all FMXs would have had an iron case while all C6s would have an
aluminum one.

> 3. Compared to modern trucks, how safe are these vehicles (ie... would
> you drive your kid around in one)?

They are extremely safe, being constructed with lots of iron and steel.

> 4. When these trucks break how difficult is it to find parts? (LA)

With the newer ones they would be more available than older ones, I find
a lot must be ordered but I only have to wait one day.

> 5. Does anyone know where one would begin to look for these trucks in
> Southern California (LA)?
>
> 6. What is a fair price for 1964/65 F100 in good working order?
>
> 7. How hard is it to find trucks of this vintage in good working order?

These are all very subjective. Try to find one in good to excellent
mechanical shape, though.

> 8. Were trucks of this era equipped with automatic transmission (for my
> girlfriend)? If so, are these more difficult to find?

Some were but I have never seen one so I assume they are pretty rare.
The standard is a typical "truck" tranny, four on the floor with granny
low. I would stay away from a 3 speed if you want V8 power.

> 10. Is there anything else vital I should know?

Ford trucks are better than Chevys.

Birken
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 00:11:21 -0700
From: "Doug Neely"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble

Is the vac advance an adjustable one? If so you may have to
retard it, to adjust it use a 1/16" (Ithink) allen key and insert it
in the hole where the vacuum line goes on turning it clockwise
will retard the amount of advance it gives the distributor. If this
doesn't work you may have weak springs on the mechanical
advance. To check the amount of advance you're getting
hook up a timing light and tach and rev the engine in 500
RPM increments with the vacuum disconnected and record your
readings, then hook up the vacuum and do the same. weak spings on the
advance plate (mechanical) will show as all the advance
coming in early (1500 rpm) . BTW is the vacuum advance
hooked to ported or manifold vacuum ? I've found Fords don"t
like manifold vacuum (flame suit on) and tend to clatter when
running it.

Cheers,
Doug

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dugnla aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, October 14, 1998 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve trouble


>the vavles rattle when the truck reaches cruising speed what ever speed
limit
>maybe. it didnt start until after i changed the vac adv dia cause the old
one
>had died long before i bought the truck. if i disconnect and plug the vac....


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