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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, October 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 486



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering
Re: FTE 61-79 - Flamin' FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Engines, some thoughts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent pushrods
FTE 61-79 - Step Side Bed
Re: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums
Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering
FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods
FTE 61-79 - M*PAR
FTE 61-79 - rust
FTE 61-79 - Qjet
Re: FTE 61-79 - '74 F100 with 360 and clueless owner
Re: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums
Re: FTE 61-79 - Qjet
FTE 61-79 - Carter Web Site Address
FTE 61-79 - steering gear box
RE: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums
FTE 61-79 - RE: RUST!?!?!?!?!? AAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!
FTE 61-79 - Final carb question (really)
FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?
Re: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods
Re: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust
FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?
Re: FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods
Re: FTE 61-79 - Final carb question (really)
Re: FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?
FTE 61-79 - Re: steering gear box
Re: FTE 61-79 - '74 F100 with 360 and clueless owner

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:00:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering

From: "ben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power steering
Date sent: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:42:57 -0500

> I can believe that. But, is it supposed to ooze out of the top of the
> pump? This is what really confuses me. How am I supposed to the add fluid
> when every time I do it spills back out?

Don't open the pump when engine is running or it will splash out, fill it with
engine off. To get all the air out, jack it up and set on jack stands so tires are
off the ground. Fill to dip stick level, replace cap and turn steering wheel
from lock to lock several times (with engine off) but do it very slowly or oil
will be pushed out the cap for some reason that I still don't fully understand
but it does so just do it slowly with engine off. Check level and do it agian
untill the level doesn't change anymore. This is the only way to get all the air
out of "certain" types of ford pumps. I got this tip from the flyer that comes
with the rebuilt pump, tried it and it worked. I was ready to take the pump
back for a refund til I tried this.

You know how you can tell an old ford without seeing it?.........power
steering pump noise :-(

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:08:28 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Flamin' FE

Date sent: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 12:37:24 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flamin' FE

> "One of the reasons FE's have valley pans it to catch the push rods when
> they bend and fall out "
>
> " Ha! So you've never been flamed before? Take that!
> WWWHHHHHRRRFFFF C'mon FEnatics, let's git 'im!!!!! "

Don't think I ever answered this............I am well acquainted with fending off
the flames. When you're 52 years old you are set in your ways and irritate a
lot of people but at 52 you don't care anymore :-) Now about that EFI
stuff.........:-)

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:16:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Engines, some thoughts

Date sent: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 23:29:32 -0700
From: Jason Topor
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Engines, some thoughts

> 1. Be careful when bead or sand blasting any intake manafold with a
> baffle pan attached to its underneath. Sand and beads can get caught
> between the manifold and the pan and work lose during operation.

Ford baffles/shields can be easily removed by prying the brads out and then
the manifold can be properly cleaned and the shield reinstalled with new
brads. If a hole is damaged it can be tapped with a 1/4-20 tap and a screw
locktighted in (red locktite). I find the valley pan intake gaskets work well so
the shield is not needed in that case. If it has a shield the valley pan should
not be necessary and the intake gaskets will be cheaper in that case.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:23:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent pushrods

From: am14 chrysler.com
Date sent: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 16:04:21 -0400
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bent pushrods

> Fairlanes and the '68 thru '70 428 CJ's were quite famous for bending
> pushrods. They were cammed for more than the springs would accept in
> factory stock configuration.

So, Azie, can I take my flame suit off now? :-) Sheesh! I was just kidding
even though it was apparently more true than even I thought :-) I vaguely
remember some old stories about it but have never experienced it myself.
Now burned up 335's with seized oil pumps is a whole nuther smoke :-) I
know you're familiar with the chrysler rocker arm problems too right? They
used to have a cast rocker in the late 60's/early 70's that was troublesome as
I recall?

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:03:53 -0400
From: Barry
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Step Side Bed

I am almost ready to install the wood on my 1965 Step Side bed that I
have just finished priming. Will be painting it in the next couple of
weeks. My problem is that the bed had a steel plate welded over the wood
bed. When I removed the steel plate I found that the wood was rotted and
all but completely gone. Does anyone know where I can get the hole
location dimensions for the bed to frame mounting bolts. I plan to
purchase oak boards and do the wood work my self. Any and all help would
be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Barry
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:52:49 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums

At 12:49 AM 10/14/98 , you wrote:
>This is my first posting to this sight, so please excuse my ignorance.
>I picked up a fixer upper "73 F-150" that had been sitting in a field for
>several years. It needs break work badly (frozen calipers, leaking lines
>and the right rear brake has a blown wheel cylinder).
> I'm in a quandry, I haven't done any break work for years. How the heck
>do you get the drum off. The Chilton's Manual I have says to remove the
>three retaining bolts that hold the drum on. I can't find these bolts. The
>rear brakes are not frozen and I have moved the shoes all the way in so they
>are not binding.
>
>I feel kind of stupid, I just can't figure out how to get them off. Any
>help out there?
>

On the Drum brakes on the rear, you should just remove the wheel, maybe
adjust the shoes in a bit, and pull the drum clear. If your truck has been
sitting for a while, its possible that its rusted to the axle and needs
some persuading. Oh yeah, all of this is assuming Ford 9", not sure how
the Dana rear ends work. I think the nuts they are talking about are the
ones that come from the factory, but if you've ever actually had any work
done on them, they are probably long gone as most people will discard them
and just use the wheel to hold the drum on.

As for the front rotor's, well my truck's 4x4 and drum's all around, so I
have to pull the wheel bearings and front hub for mine to come off, if you
have a 4x2 I would imagine that there's a way to pull the rotor without
pulling all the bearings, but I've never worked on one, so I can't tell you
for sure

Hope this helps

Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:26:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering

Gary wrote:
You know how you can tell an old ford without seeing it?.........power
steering pump noise :-(

Power Steering? That's for softies. Keep it manual steering and manual tranny. Helps keep SWMBO from
wanting to drive the baby.


Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:29:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods

As my former machinists would say, here is a GREEN question,
If one were to replace the pushrods (or say rebuild their engine and put the old rods back in without noting
which rod went into which hole) would this require readjustment of the valves for proper operation?



Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:44:51 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods

>As my former machinists would say, here is a GREEN question,
>If one were to replace the pushrods (or say rebuild their engine and put
the old rods back in without noting
>which rod went into which hole) would this require readjustment of the
valves for proper operation?
>
>
Probably, if you can, how are your rocker's set up ? Some (most? started
a war last time I said that) Ford's with hydraulic lifters can't be
adjusted, I suppose you could shim all the pedestals on certain models, but
generally you just torque it down.


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:50:13 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - M*PAR

High Plains Richard writes: >> Turn the ignition switch like this: =
within 5 seconds. Look at your check engine light, it
should start flashing. For example: pause
flash> long pause etc. This would be a code of 23. I believe a code of 55
is end codes (but could be wrong, I've never actually owned anything new
enought to have this option). Check it out and see if it works. You can
send the codes to me (I'm in digest mode so you might just want to respond
directly, especially since this isn't really Ford related). And I can post
them to the MoPar list and get them decoded for you.

Dead on! I can be contacted "AM14 Chrysler.com" and would be happy to
decode them for you. Don't own a jeep, but own several M*OPARS.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:46:27 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rust

Doug,

What kind of rust? (Besides iron oxide, that much is obvious) Perferations?
Surface rust? If it is bad rust and you want to permanently kill it, get
some Naval Jelly. This is low concentratio Hydrocloric Acid (HCl) so be
careful with it. When it is applied to rust, it chemically reacts with the
iron oxide. If you have a lot of loose flakes, remove them before applying.
It has directions, just follow what the bottle says. You may have to go to
a body repair supply shop or marine (boats) dealer to find it. I think the
last time I bought some it was Duro brand and I found it in WalMart.

Boy you really have to be careful about how you word stuff these days.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, no more evidence of the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:34:08 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Qjet

Thank you John Strauss. Most of the bashing done to Qjets is done by people
who don't understand them. As with most mechanical devices, they have their
quircks. I have run several Quadrajets when they shouldn't have been
working at all. Although they all say Quadrajet on the side, there are a
lot and I mean a lot of variations. If you don't know the difference, it is
very easy to put a universal kit in and use the wrong gasket or put the
right gasket in upside down.

I can say the same about any automatic choke system, too. If all the pieces
are there and functioning and the person knows how to set it up correctly,
nothing beats an automatic choke.

There lies the real problem. We should never condemn what we don't
understand. When we cease to be confused, we generally have ceased to think.

(Stepping off of soap box, buttoning asbestos overcoat. I have a spare, Gary)


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, no more evidence of the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:19:43 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '74 F100 with 360 and clueless owner

Marty

One of the tubes goes to your manuel choke, bring warm/hot air to
expand the spring in the choke unit to open the choke. Drill the
hole clean in the manifold. Clean out the tube and you may have enough
to stick back in the hold. Else replace it. Unless you have change the
choke to electric.

I can't remember what the other tube works with. But it needs to be addressed

also.






At 08:29 PM 10/13/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Thanks to all who helped with tune-up specs. While fiddling with The Beast
> I discovered that: 1) there are two tubes that run from the passenger side
>exhaust manifold to the carb, and 2) both of these tubes are rusted through
>and haning in free space. She runs fine. The question: Do I need to worry
>about these? And assuming the answer is yes (FOMOCO doesn't use many
>useless parts), how would I go about reattaching them? The tubes are
>corroded through right at the manifold. Sorry about the long post.
>Thanks!
>Marty
>Home for the Mechanically Inept
>Minot, ND
>
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>

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:28:00 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums

Gary

>From what I remember you just remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off.
Behind the drum is a rubber grombit (sp) you remove and with a brake tool
you turn a star wheel inside to pull the brake shoes inward away from the
drum. Once thats done you might be lucky enough to pull the drum off.
If not the drum is rusted to the axel. In which case you take a shop hammer
and GENTLY tap around the inside of the lug bolts to break loose the rust.




Good Luck and Patiences

Larry





At 12:49 AM 10/14/98 -0500, you wrote:
>This is my first posting to this sight, so please excuse my ignorance.
>I picked up a fixer upper "73 F-150" that had been sitting in a field for
>several years. It needs break work badly (frozen calipers, leaking lines
>and the right rear brake has a blown wheel cylinder).
> I'm in a quandry, I haven't done any break work for years. How the heck
>do you get the drum off. The Chilton's Manual I have says to remove the
>three retaining bolts that hold the drum on. I can't find these bolts. The
>rear brakes are not frozen and I have moved the shoes all the way in so they
>are not binding.
>
>I feel kind of stupid, I just can't figure out how to get them off. Any
>help out there?
>
>Gary S.
>
>glsenior tri-lakes.net
>
>
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>

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 10:30:36 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Qjet

Date sent: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:34:08 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Qjet

> been working at all. Although they all say Quadrajet on the side, there
> are a lot and I mean a lot of variations. If you don't know the

> (Stepping off of soap box, buttoning asbestos overcoat. I have a spare,
> Gary)

Does anyone know if the Edlebrock versions of the Qjet are any good? Has
anyone tried the Offy 360 degree manifold with one? This is on my list of
things to add to my next 460 build.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 10:55:04 -0400
From: "Graves, Greg"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Carter Web Site Address

Jason,

Been looking for the Carter website since I read your post. No luck. Do
you happen to know their web address?

Greg Graves
Facility Services
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill
Chapel Hill, NC 27599-1800

1967 F-350 Stake bed
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:54:06 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: FTE 61-79 - steering gear box

Saw an Email from this list stating that a caddy gear box might be used
to replace a ford gear box. Is this a joke. I never saw a responds.

I need to replace my power steer gear box in my 1974 f350. All the ones

I've found in the junk yards seem to be in worse shape then mind. Might

have better luck finding one from another breed.

By the way, would a manuel steering box from a 1974 f250 mount in the f350

without any mod's. ie. steering column length or pitman arm length?

. TIA
Larry


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 10:23:00 -0500
From: Doug_Brodie oxy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums

There probably were three flimsy little keeper thingies on the wheel studs that
hold the drum on. Those are most likely long gone. I think I remember that the
drum is a tight fit over the center of the axle end. This area some(most) times
develops some rust and is the dickens to get off. What I had to do was spray
some WD-40 or similar stuff on it and let it sit for a while(over night?).
Then, like Larry said, use a shop hammer and rattle the thing a little. You may
have to grow a couple of extra hands and use them to pry out on the drum from
behind as you tap on the axle center only enough to set up some vibration to
help out. If it still won't come loose, your next step will be to heat the
center of the drum. Be careful here though. Too much heat will ruin some
stuff. Just use good judgement. If the drum is hanging up on the brake shoes,
you will be able to pry the drum out enough to see it move away from it's seat
at the axle center. In that case, you will need mucho patience and to keep
working at the adjuster. You may need to spray it down and let it soak. Good
luck!

Doug in Texas
'79 F250 Supercab 4X4 C6

- -----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums


At 12:49 AM 10/14/98 -0500, you wrote:
>This is my first posting to this sight, so please excuse my ignorance.
>I picked up a fixer upper "73 F-150" that had been sitting in a field for
>several years. It needs break work badly (frozen calipers, leaking lines
>and the right rear brake has a blown wheel cylinder).
> I'm in a quandry, I haven't done any break work for years. How the heck
>do you get the drum off. The Chilton's Manual I have says to remove the
>three retaining bolts that hold the drum on. I can't find these bolts. The
>rear brakes are not frozen and I have moved the shoes all the way in so they
>are not binding.
>
>I feel kind of stupid, I just can't figure out how to get them off. Any
>help out there?
>
>Gary S.
>
>glsenior tri-lakes.net
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:40:28 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: RUST!?!?!?!?!? AAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!

Doug said:

I am now faced with the task of removing the rust that has developed along
the drip edge that runs along the cab above the side windows and then down
behind the rear side window (it's a super cab). Does anybody have any good
suggestions on how to handle this problem and eliminate it perminently? I'm
a do-it-myselfer when I can be so I would be interested in any helpful
information. Thanks!

Doug in Texas
'79 F250 4X4 Supercab 400 C6

- ------------------------------
Doug,
I had a similar problem on my 76 super cab. When I had mine rebuilt the
body shop suggested cutting out the rear window frames and replacing them
with fresh metal. Later they chickened out (had a really bad experience
with them. Got the feeling that they were greasing me pretty badly) and
just treated the rust. They explained it to me but I don't really
understand what they did. They mentioned something about heating it up with
a torch and removing the drip rails, using a torch to treat the rust (???
like I said I don't trust them). I've had the truck 3 years now since the
work and there is no sign that the rust is returning.

Question for the list. Can I remove the drip rails entirely and not have a
problem with water getting into the cab?

Tom H.
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 11:50:44 -0400
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Final carb question (really)

Hey Guys,This AM I located a Autolite 4 off a 460.the guy said it's in
pretty rough shape and needs a going through and would let me ave it for
$50.00.Is this the way to go or should I keep looking?Thanks again to
all. Mike
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:00:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?

I own a 79 Ford F250 with a 460 bbl, and I am having some trouble with
keeping it tuned right. When it's cold, it stalls easily without it
idling around 500 rpm's, and sometimes when it's warm, it revs up and
down, like it's not getting enough fuel. Anyone have some tips for
tuning it up, and keeping it running straight? THanks.....



-Justin Farcas







--


MOTHER, TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO WALK MY WAY
TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO HEAR MY WORDS
WHAT THEY MEAN, WHAT THEY SAY
MOTHER

MOTHER
CAN YOU KEEP THEM IN THE DARK FOR LIFE
CAN YOU HIDE THEM FROM THE WAITING WORLD
OH MOTHER

FATHER
GONNA TAKE YOUR DAUGHTER OUT TONIGHT
GONNA SHOW HER MY WORLD
OH FATHER

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:05:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums

From: "Gary Semelka Sr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums
Date sent: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 00:49:39 -0500

> do you get the drum off. The Chilton's Manual I have says to remove the
> three retaining bolts that hold the drum on. I can't find these bolts.
> The rear brakes are not frozen and I have moved the shoes all the way in
> so they are not binding.

The spring clips that were on there were in place to keep the drums on the
hubs during assy in the factory and nothing more, the lug nuts hold the drum
in place once the wheel is installed. I have seen some drums held on with flat
head screws but don't recall the vintage. These are not necessary either since
the holes in the drum match the lugs very closely and the lugs and nuts are
doing virtually all the work.

The reason they won't come off is due to a very tight fit on the center hub
and the shape of the drum at that location which will bind at the slightest
provocation. Rust adds to the problem but they will defy efforts to get them
off quite often when brand new due to the bind thing. I use a dead blow or
rubber hammer to firmly whack the outside face of the drum near the
periphery all around to "walk" the center hole off the hub. You can pull and
pry till you break the drum and still not get it off because it is "binding" not
rusted on. When you eventually get it off, clean up the inside of the center
hole with sand paper and scrape the boss on the hubs with a sharp screw
driver so you get all the way back into the corners and put anti-seize on the
hub when you put it back on. Next time it will come off with your hands or
just a few light taps with the rubber hammer but remember the bind principle
and work with it, not rust. Trust me, the surface area of the inside of that
hole and the boss on the hub is so small that rust could not, by itself, make it
that hard to get off, think about it :-)

In my infinite wisdom, when I was learing these things, I have used a torch,
prybars, 4# sledge hammers and a lot of not so nice words only to have the
stupid thing fall off by itself with just a tap in exactly the right spot. I have
litterally broken them off out of frustration but this knowledge has saved me
a lot of grief since I learned what was really happening. If you don't believe
me, wiggle the drum and watch the center hub area for movement. It
probably moves but still won't come off. If rust were the culprit, once you
get movement it would come right off, right?

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:19:40 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods

From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Date sent: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:29:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods

> As my former machinists would say, here is a GREEN question,
> If one were to replace the pushrods (or say rebuild their engine and put
> the old rods back in without noting which rod went into which hole) would
> this require readjustment of the valves for proper operation?

Depends on the setup. Solids would need adjustment in any case since
every time you break down the heads you change the relationships but
hydraulics are much more tolerant and most newer ones have no adjustment
at all. If I were building an engine I had never seen before I would measure
the push rods to be certain they were all the same type and length. Some
have differnt ends on them and have to go in a certain way too.

If you are using original lifters, pushrods and rockers then you should put
them back in the same location on the engine to prevent excessive wear. If
you are installing new lifters you should still put rockers and pushrods back
in the same place due to the "set" worn into the rockers for the same reason
and in fact this is a good rule to follow with every part in the engine except
for bolts which don't matter since they don't "wear". Even gallery plugs can
be a problem since the fit can vary. I've found pipe plugs vary enough that
you can have one go almost through a hole befor it gets tight and others bind
up before they're in far enough for example. When I did my 460 I put screw
in casting plugs in and had to fit each one to a specific hole to get them to
come tight just flush with the block. When I take them out they will have to
be marked so they get back in the same spot.

Never, ever reuse lifters with a new cam but new lifters can be used on an old
cam in a pinch. I once mixed the followers up on a 2.3 liter over head cam
engine and ate the cam in less than two weeks, totally flat on several lobes
and if I hear you laughing Bill I'm comin after you...........:-)

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 22:28:22 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust

> *shrug* I can picture it, but the name is escaping me .... maybe this'll
> help someone else ...
>
They are made by dynomax and are called Turbo tubes
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:12:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?

Justin Farcas wrote:
own a 79 Ford F250 with a 460 bbl, and I am having some trouble with
keeping it tuned right. When it's cold, it stalls easily without it
idling around 500 rpm's, and sometimes when it's warm, it revs up and
down, like it's not getting enough fuel. Anyone have some tips for
tuning it up, and keeping it running straight? THanks.....

1. Choke

2. Little valve on the driver side exhaust in my 352 is supposed to pump heat from exhaust to intake
manifold when cold. I don't know if 460's have them, but you may want to investigate

3. The intermitten oscillation when warm sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

good luck.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:16:10 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?

From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?
Date sent: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:00:49 -0400 (EDT)

> I own a 79 Ford F250 with a 460 bbl, and I am having some trouble with
> keeping it tuned right. When it's cold, it stalls easily without it
> idling around 500 rpm's, and sometimes when it's warm, it revs up and
> down, like it's not getting enough fuel. Anyone have some tips for
> tuning it up, and keeping it running straight? THanks.....

What carb do you have? I have the Motor Craft spreadbore and after
rebuilding it and adjusting the electric choke it works very well. 460's like to
run rich, unlike chevys which according to Smoky like to run lean.........:-)

I have never flooded a 460 but often can't get enough gas to it to make it run
:-) That of course isn't really true, one good backfire on a cold morning with
a Holley carb has put me off the road for many minutes trying to get it
cleaned out but with the spread bore it has never given me any trouble :-)

You may have a fuel pressure problem too due to a faulty pump but if you
don't have any trouble at speed and it idles once warmed up then you can
rule this out. Surging at speed is a good sign that you are running lean too.

Timing could be an issue too but not likely in this case unless you are also
haveing problems at other speeds and conditions etc..

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:22:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent Push Rods

The knowledgable and still smoldering from FE thread Gary wrote:
(reguarding pushrods)

>Depends on the setup. Solids would need adjustment in any case since
>every time you break down the heads you change the relationships but
>hydraulics are much more tolerant and most newer ones have no adjustment
>at all. If I were building an engine I had never seen before I would measure
>the push rods to be certain they were all the same type and length. Some
>have differnt ends on them and have to go in a certain way too.

Sometimes I feel like I'm 1 to 2 weeks behind the list. I did not pay attention to my push rods (the manual
never said so....) so I just put them in however. Even though the engine seems to be running ok, I can
already see I'm gonna be in bed at night wondering what's going on inside that (God bless it) FE.

Ok so I should check my lifter type. Quiet honestly, I don't know if its hydraulic or solid. Guess I better not
through away those grimey rebuild clothes just yet....

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:43:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Final carb question (really)

Date sent: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 11:50:44 -0400
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Final carb question (really)

> Hey Guys,This AM I located a Autolite 4 off a 460.the guy said it's in
> pretty rough shape and needs a going through and would let me ave it for
> $50.00.Is this the way to go or should I keep looking?Thanks again to all.

Depends on exactly "which" autolite carb it is. The boys will let you know
but I believe it's the 2150 in 2V and 4100 in 4V that they like. The others are
here and there. Wait for comfirmation before you buy, $50 is a lot for a beat
up used carb.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:48:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?

I have an Edelbrock carb, I didn't put it in it, it was installed when I
bought it about a month ago. I had to install and inline fuel filter
yesterday because I couldn't fine one to fit the carb. I think that it's
running a bit rich, there's a hint of white smoke coming from one of hte
pipes.

> > From:

Justin Farcas
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - FUEL/SPARKS/TIMING?
> Date sent: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 12:00:49 -0400 (EDT)
>
> > I own a 79 Ford F250 with a 460 bbl, and I am having some trouble with
> > keeping it tuned right. When it's cold, it stalls easily without it
> > idling around 500 rpm's, and sometimes when it's warm, it revs up and
> > down, like it's not getting enough fuel. Anyone have some tips for
> > tuning it up, and keeping it running straight? THanks.....
>
> What carb do you have? I have the Motor Craft spreadbore and after
> rebuilding it and adjusting the electric choke it works very well. 460's like to
> run rich, unlike chevys which according to Smoky like to run lean.........:-)
>
> I have never flooded a 460 but often can't get enough gas to it to make it run
> :-) That of course isn't really true, one good backfire on a cold morning with
> a Holley carb has put me off the road for many minutes trying to get it
> cleaned out but with the spread bore it has never given me any trouble :-)
>
> You may have a fuel pressure problem too due to a faulty pump but if you
> don't have any trouble at speed and it idles once warmed up then you can
> rule this out. Surging at speed is a good sign that you are running lean too.
>
> Timing could be an issue too but not likely in this case unless you are also
> haveing problems at other speeds and conditions etc..
>
> A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
> Dad keeps the best part :-)
>
> -- Gary --
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


- --


MOTHER, TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO WALK MY WAY
TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO HEAR MY WORDS
WHAT THEY MEAN, WHAT THEY SAY
MOTHER

MOTHER
CAN YOU KEEP THEM IN THE DARK FOR LIFE
CAN YOU HIDE THEM FROM THE WAITING WORLD
OH MOTHER

FATHER
GONNA TAKE YOUR DAUGHTER OUT TONIGHT
GONNA SHOW HER MY WORLD
OH FATHER

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 10:59:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering gear box

Larry asked:

> Saw an Email from this list stating that a caddy gear box might be used
> to replace a ford gear box. Is this a joke. I never saw a responds.
> I need to replace my power steer gear box in my 1974 f350. All the ones
> I've found in the junk yards seem to be in worse shape then mind. Might
> have better luck finding one from another breed.

I've seen rebuilt boves for around $300. Try autokrafters (link from
fte web site).

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auto krafters. com /

> By the way, would a manuel steering box from a 1974 f250 mount in the f350
> without any mod's. ie. steering column length or pitman arm length?

250/350 use same steering box, but the column length is different between
manual or power steering boxes. Actually, the overall steering shaft length
is different for Manual or power steering, the column (housing) length is
different depending on transmission auto / manual on floor /manual on column.

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 11:11:53 -0700....


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