Ford Truck Enthusiasts Email List Archives

















61-79-list-digest Wednesday, October 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 485



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Flamin' FE
FTE 61-79 - Fuel switching valve
FTE 61-79 - Elect fuel switching valve
FTE 61-79 - power steering
FTE 61-79 - Starting problems after truck has sat for a week.
FTE 61-79 - Bent pushrods
FTE 61-79 - Ref Starter Problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems after truck has sat for a week.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems after truck has sat for a week.
FTE 61-79 - Q-jet reliability
Re: FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem
FTE 61-79 - Tach Location for '61
FTE 61-79 - newbie questions
FTE 61-79 - RUST!?!?!?!?!? AAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!
FTE 61-79 - HO 351M
FTE 61-79 - '74 F100 with 360 and clueless owner
FTE 61-79 - 2" Lift
FTE 61-79 - Re: Carter fixes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rallye Pack Source Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Tweety Flies!
Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering
Re: FTE 61-79 - 71 Engine Question
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: T-shirt design vote
FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums
FTE 61-79 - Next 360 4bbl question
FTE 61-79 - FE Engines, some thoughts

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 12:37:24 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flamin' FE

"One of the reasons FE's have valley pans it to catch the push rods when
they bend and fall out "

" Ha! So you've never been flamed before? Take that!
WWWHHHHHRRRFFFF C'mon FEnatics, let's git 'im!!!!! "

I'll have say it again,if you don't like FEs don't buy one but don't bad
mouth them.

" Grab a chill pill etc."
"Gary was only kidding, man. etc"
"We have fun on this list at each other's expense but since most of us
know
it's just in fun we don't get upset."

Whose upset?
All Fords are OK in my book tho I might be a tad sensitive about my
favorites.
If my FE ever wears out I might just put a 385 in my truck.
May all your pushrods remain as Henry made
them. (whirlbang ching
whooosh: sound of flamethrower being reloaded W/ less caustic ammmo)
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:45:18 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel switching valve

Dennis Witthuhn writes: >>i have a 79 with the factory dual tanks you
have the switch so the next question is do you have the valve that goes
with it. it should be located under the drivers side on the inside of the
frame near the drivers door

My '77's (4X4's) and my '79 2wd (all F-250's or F-350) have it located on
the crossmember just in front of the rear mounted tank. My '76 4X4 F-150
had it located where you state.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:50:30 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Elect fuel switching valve

Lee Crammer writes: >>replace the manual valve with an electric valve
(also available through Ford as well as J.C Whitney and your local parts
store, I'm sure).

I've found that Motor Home sales outlets with a parts franchise is an
excellent place to get these aftermarket types. Lots cheaper than FOMOCO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:42:57 -0500
From: "ben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power steering

>ok what is happening is you have air in the fluid not a problem its
>supposed to look that way. it takes some time for all the air in the
fluid
>to go away

I can believe that. But, is it supposed to ooze out of the top of the pump?
This is what really confuses me. How am I supposed to the add fluid when
every time I do it spills back out?

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:08:38 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems after truck has sat for a week.

Hi gang.

I have a 74 F250 with a 390, 4bbl holley. I left the truck parked last
week. Saturday, I pulled the air cleaner off, and used my hand to open the
throttle before I tried to start the truck. Well it appears all of the gas
in the carb either drained out or evaporated, because I did not see, or
smell any gas in the carb after opening the throttle, watching to see what
the automatic choke did. I got in the truck and tried to start it with the
air cleaner still off, and the choke closed. After about 45 seconds of
cranking the engine sputtered and then quit. After another 15 seconds of
cranking the engine, and multiple accelerator pedal mashes, the truck
finally started. The engine did not show any signs of being flooded either.

Is it possible for the gas in the carb to drain back out? Is it possible
for the gas in the carb to evaporate out in a week. Or is something else
happening??

Thanks
Keith Srb

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 16:04:21 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bent pushrods

JHS writes: >>I've had FEs for 20 years and never bent a pushrod or done
any other damage and I have reved the #$% out of them.

I've bent many. Kept spares all the time. You get past 7000 on the FE and
you are in danger of bending them, and if you're neck and neck with brand X
you're trying your best not to let him get to the lights before you, you
can sometimes get too many R's for the "ideal" setup you thought you were
happy with. That doesn't make the FE a bad engine, but it does put the
driver on the edge of being careless sometimes, and asking more of the
current setup in his FE than it was built for. The '66 and '67 GT Fairlanes
and the '68 thru '70 428 CJ's were quite famous for bending pushrods. They
were cammed for more than the springs would accept in factory stock
configuration.

Been there - done that.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 16:29:25 -0400
From: "Bob"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ref Starter Problems

Just catching up on my mail, and this caught my eye, and perhaps for once I
may be able to help someone as I have been down this road.....When the
starter went on my 78 400, I went down to my friendly One Stop auto parts
store and bought a starter (first mistake, I shouldn't have been so cheap)
proceded to climb under the beast and after much kind words for Henry got
the old one out.....lo & behold they gave me the wrong starter. Back i go
I& the kid says gotta be the right one, thats what the computer says....So
I get my money back & go to the local NAPA store & guess what??? Not only
does the counter guy give me the right starter, but asks if I need
shims???? SHIMS I say, those are only for Ch#$%y's, I have a FORD!!!!
There are shims for these starters, they are shaped like circle with 2 tabs
on them to hold them, and about the thickness of a flat washer and slip
over the nose of the starter. Yup Yup, put the starter in with out the
shim spun it over a couple of times, pulled it back out and you could see
where the face of the bendix was riding against the ring gear. Put in two
shims & have not had any trouble since. The guy I bought the truck from
told me when the starter goes out I would probably go through two or three
before I got one to hold up... Hope this is not too late & helps
someone...BTW the motormite # is 72236 and its about $7.50
>(snip)
>
>>The bendix on these will woek fine when they are brand new, first
installed.
>>The motor cranks vigorously and starts on the first rotation. Eventually
>>the starter will make a horrible "grunge" noise which I identify as the
>>bendix failing to align into the flywheel. eventually the "grunge "
noise
>>stops and the starter just whines. 2 "new " starters go back to their
parts
>>stores tomorrow. both bendixes will easily rotate back with minor
pressure.
>>
>This may be a gross oversimplification but if the bendix is the failure
>point, have you tried going to some sort of heavy-duty bendix meant for
>engines with high compression or something of the like? Does Summit have
>such a thing?
>
>>I have inspected the flywheel with a flashlight rotating the crank and
see
>>no significant wear and no chipped teeth. the current motor was a long
>>block instal done in `90l, I think the shop would have noticed if it was
>>the wrong flywheel.
>>
>I would think that a flywheel problem would cause the starter to bind due
>to the shaft being forced sideways against the bushings until it wore them

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:40:10 -0500
From: "Dennis Witthuhn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering

is it just sitting when the fluid oozes out or are you turning the wheel?
if there is a lot of air in the system and you turn the wheel it will ooze
out unless you turn it very slowly. and i do mean slowly hope this helps
- -----Original Message-----
From: ben
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 2:58 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power steering


>>ok what is happening is you have air in the fluid not a problem its
>>supposed to look that way. it takes some time for all the air in the
>fluid
>>to go away
>
>I can believe that. But, is it supposed to ooze out of the top of the pump?
>This is what really confuses me. How am I supposed to the add fluid when
>every time I do it spills back out?
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 16:42:28 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems after truck has sat for a week.

It most likely drained out into the manifold, into a cylinder, past the
rings and into your oil.

Common for a Holley with a bad float. (REALLY bad when you are facing down
hill, and get a siphon thing going for a couple of weeks!)


- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Srb
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 3:59 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems after truck has sat for a week.


>Hi gang.
>
>I have a 74 F250 with a 390, 4bbl holley. I left the truck parked last
>week. Saturday, I pulled the air cleaner off, and used my hand to open the
>throttle before I tried to start the truck. Well it appears all of the gas
>in the carb either drained out or evaporated, because I did not see, or
>smell any gas in the carb after opening the throttle, watching to see what
>the automatic choke did. I got in the truck and tried to start it with the
>air cleaner still off, and the choke closed. After about 45 seconds of
>cranking the engine sputtered and then quit. After another 15 seconds of
>cranking the engine, and multiple accelerator pedal mashes, the truck
>finally started. The engine did not show any signs of being flooded either.
>
>Is it possible for the gas in the carb to drain back out? Is it possible
>for the gas in the carb to evaporate out in a week. Or is something else
>happening??
>
>Thanks
>Keith Srb
>
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:42:08 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems after truck has sat for a week.

>
>Is it possible for the gas in the carb to drain back out? Is it possible
>for the gas in the carb to evaporate out in a week. Or is something else
>happening??
>

I've found its fairly normal for vehicles to "lose their prime" or have all
the gas drain out of the fuel bowl. This can occur for a couple of
reasons, the most obvious is that the one-way valve that stops fuel from
leaking back is bad, this valve is usually either the fuel pump itself, or
a part of it. Just something I've noticed too, our Ford's seem to keep
just enough that if you can catch them when they first fire, you'll get
most of the gas pumped up to them in time to keep them running on the next
try, the Ch*vy's however seem to need cranking and cranking before they
will start the first time.


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:55:10 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Q-jet reliability

(snip)

>They are known for unreliability.
>

(snip)

Man, you are putting me in a position to have to vehemently defend a GM
product, but I disagree most strenuously. Rochesters hold up better than
anything I have ever used. I once used a Q-jet on a 4 cylinder Datsun
motor because the heavy vibration had already shook a Weber and a Carter to
pieces. I had to disable the secondaries obviously but it ran better than
the Hitachi that came from the factory on it.

I think I can say without fear of flame GM as a whole is mostly junk, but
their offshoots such as Rochester and Frigidaire make some really great
components.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 17:12:37 -0400
From: "Jay Grover"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem

Thanks for the info, Gary. I knew you'd come through for me :-)

Can somebody measure that little "doohicky" that goes between the throwout
lever and the threaded rod for me? The one I have is made from a piece of
unthreaded tubing welded to an airtool fitting. It does the job just fine,
but I'm not sure if its overall length is correct (i.e. am I really getting
the full travel from the linkage that I need). Please don't go and tear
apart your perfectly good clutch linkage to measure this for me! If someone
just happens to have one of them lying around though, I'd appreciate the
effort.
I just can't wait to see what other "innovations" the previous owner made to
this truck :-) !
If the engine didn't run so damned good, I'd probably have a bunch of parts
for sale!

Jay

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary, 78 BBB
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem


>From: "Jay Grover"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem
>Date sent: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:33:30 -0400
>
>> I've got a strange clutch problem with my 1973 F-250 camper special (360,
>> T-18 4 speed). I've adjusted the clutch linkage out as far as possible,
>> but I can still not get the clutch to disengage.
>
>If you are using stock clutch pedal and bell crank then you should be able
to
>adjust the linkage till there is no free play at which point it should be
very
>easy to disengage. If you can't get that much adjustment either the disk
is
>worn beyond limits or you have the wrong linkage or after adjusting that
way
>it won't disengage then any or all of the throw out arm, bearing or clutch
>pressure plate fingers or diaphram is damaged.
>
>When you get it apart you should easily be able to discern which it is. A
>worn belcrank pivot can cause this too but would have to be pretty sloppy.
>
>Usually, but not always, the linkage is such that when you run out of free
>play and the clutch won't disengage completely you need to replace the disk
>and pressure plate and resurface the flywheel. Shade trees will replace
the
>disk only and get away with it for a while but it's not recommended.
Springs
>get weak from fatigue and heat and pressure plates warp. If you don't mind
>the extra work of tearing it down fairly often then it could work out for
you
>but I would replace the whole deal and resurface the flywheel.
>
>A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
>Dad keeps the best part :-)
>
>-- Gary --
>
>
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:23:03 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tach Location for '61

Well, I hate to say it but since I am going to start driving my '61 I
need to butcher up the dash to put in some gauges. Inside those two big
round circle things beside the speedometer I would like to put a tach
and an oil pressure gauge. For laughs I might put an oil temperature
gauge and a vacuum gauge down in the lower corners, a 2" will fit there.

Is there any reason I should put the tach or oil pressure on one side or
the other? There is plenty of room behind both sides.

On a different note, what kind of gauges do you folks like? I am
looking here in P.A.W. at some Auto Meter gauges that are black and
white numbers with a red pointer and they seem like the ones to match my
stock gauges. I also see some VDO gauges but they seem to have a white
pointer. I seem to recall someone a while back discussing red paint
used to touch up stock pointers, does anyone recall?

I would also like to know what you think on P.A.W., their prices seem
almost higher than if I just drove somewhere and bought the parts O.T.C.

Thanks,
Birken
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 18:49:56 -0400
From: Raul Gutierrez
Subject: FTE 61-79 - newbie questions

I've always loved 60's era Ford trucks... probably as a result of growing
up in Texas, but I've only owned later models.

Now I'm looking into buying a 60's era truck and I have lots of questions
for those of you in the know.

Some of these questions will, I'm sure, sound boneheaded, but I am
starting at zero and want to get educated before I dive in. I've never
owned a vintage car (unless you consider a Ford Falcon vintage), so
here's my list of totally subjective newbie questions:

1. If you could own only one 60's era Ford truck and you were planning on
driving that truck regularly, which would you recommend?

2. Which model year (if any) is the most reliable?

3. Compared to modern trucks, how safe are these vehicles (ie... would
you drive your kid around in one)?

4. When these trucks break how difficult is it to find parts? (LA)

5. Does anyone know where one would begin to look for these trucks in
Southern California (LA)?

6. What is a fair price for 1964/65 F100 in good working order?

7. How hard is it to find trucks of this vintage in good working order?

8. Were trucks of this era equipped with automatic transmission (for my
girlfriend)? If so, are these more difficult to find?

10. Is there anything else vital I should know?

Feel free to help/flame me privately.

Thanks in advance.

raul
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 16:01:31 -0700
From: "Brodie, Doug"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RUST!?!?!?!?!? AAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!

I am now faced with the task of removing the rust that has developed along
the drip edge that runs along the cab above the side windows and then down
behind the rear side window (it's a super cab). Does anybody have any good
suggestions on how to handle this problem and eliminate it perminently? I'm
a do-it-myselfer when I can be so I would be interested in any helpful
information. Thanks!

Doug in Texas
'79 F250 4X4 Supercab 400 C6
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 20:07:06 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - HO 351M

>I am running 10.8 to 1 compression, (milled heads, and
>custom pistons, etc...). The biggest starter Ford used, (Delco Remy?) was
- ------snip----------
>"Paul"
>Mr. Paul R. Boudreault
>Retired RCAF/CAF
>79 Bronco, 351M, 4BB, 4-speed manual, Body and suspension being
>restored/rebuilt?

Paul,
This is interesting stuff! Tell us some more about your 351M. How much did
you cut the heads? Flat top pistons? What octane gas do you have to have
at 10.8:1? I'm interested in any details you care to share with the list.
I'm currently planning and saving $$$$ to build a replacement for my stock
351M, I'm leaning toward finding a 400 though.
later,
dale c
'79 351M, f-150

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 20:29:20 -0500
From: "Martin Carter"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '74 F100 with 360 and clueless owner

Thanks to all who helped with tune-up specs. While fiddling with The Beast
I discovered that: 1) there are two tubes that run from the passenger side
exhaust manifold to the carb, and 2) both of these tubes are rusted through
and haning in free space. She runs fine. The question: Do I need to worry
about these? And assuming the answer is yes (FOMOCO doesn't use many
useless parts), how would I go about reattaching them? The tubes are
corroded through right at the manifold. Sorry about the long post.
Thanks!
Marty
Home for the Mechanically Inept
Minot, ND

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 19:09:23 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2" Lift

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 00:30:42 -0400
From: "Robert C. Owens"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2wd lift kits?

Any one know of a source for 2wd lift kits for 73-79 F-150s' ?

Both Superlift (my Preference) and Rancho make this lift.
I'd recommend that you replace all the rubber in the suspension with Poly
Urethane Including all of the rear spring bushings. If you tend to carry a
load then use the "Add-a-leaf" otherwise the 2 inch blocks will not upset
the suspension too much.

Chris
79 Bronco


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 19:40:22 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Carter fixes

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:05:23 -0500
From: Mike Masse
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Carter fixes

I just put a Carter on my 351M for this very reason and for bounces it
works a million times better then the Holley did. I was on a very steep
rock hill yesterday though, and it kept flooding and killing just like
the Holley used to. Is there anything I can do to the Carter to help it
not flood out as easily on a hill??

-Mike
'78 Bronco

Lower the float level from the stock setting. Do this 1/32 maximum steps at
a time until the side hill problem goes away (it will up to 45 side tilt;
ok it had a cable, ok, two on it). Then go out and run it at WOT for long
enough to verify that you have not lowered the float level to the point
where you are running the engine out of fuel; Indicated by the engine
starting to miss on the top end. Do not run it long in the miss condition as
you can melt the engine down rather quickly! So if you think that you feel
it miss... get out of it!. Then raise the setting by 1/64 increments until
you find the compromise you need and can live with.
Best way to do this is to use an O2 sensor and have someone else watch it.
I have run this Carb 1/8-3/16 under the recommended setting, and yes it
will run 45!
For serious trail work I have a set of numbers that I have written on the
inside of the Air Cleaner that I use on my toy that will allow the engine to
keep on running long after the EFI boyz have chickened out! Of course I'll
have to create new numbers after the new engine finds its home. Oh well!)
that's the fun part!

Happy tuning:-)
Chris
79 Bronco






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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 00:01:47 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rallye Pack Source Needed

even the repops are EXPENSIVE
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 21:17:38 PDT
From: "Eric Guin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Tweety Flies!

- ----Original Message Follows----
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 12:26:35 -0700
From: Vogt Family
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Tweety Flies!
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

On Mon, 12 Oct 1998, "Eric Guin" wrote:



> I have a 4x4 and am getting ready to build a new
engine
> for it( i am thinking 351 cleveland or a windsor, any suggestions?)
Does
> any one know where i can find one of these "Q-jet" carbs?
> They sound pretty good, thx for the help.


Thanks for all of the help, I got some good opinions on carbs. thanks
again.

Arizona Eric
'79 Ford Bronco custom, 400M


______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 23:18:29 -0500
From: "Ted Stringfellow"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering

Are you sure you're not overfilling it. I had a similar problem after I
replaced my power steering gearbox, but teflon tape stopped the leak in the
gearbox. After that I had a little overflow from the power steering pump,
but it hasn't spurted fluid since.

- -----Original Message-----
From: ben
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 2:58 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power steering


>>ok what is happening is you have air in the fluid not a problem its
>>supposed to look that way. it takes some time for all the air in the
>fluid
>>to go away
>
>I can believe that. But, is it supposed to ooze out of the top of the pump?
>This is what really confuses me. How am I supposed to the add fluid when
>every time I do it spills back out?
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 23:09:16 -0500
From: "Ted Stringfellow"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 71 Engine Question

- -----Original Message-----
From: William S Hart
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 71 Engine Question


>At 03:39 PM 10/10/98 , you wrote:
>>Heard of a 71 F-100 in my neck of the woods at a decent price (i.e. 302
>>engine is junk). Small blocks are easy to come by but what concerns me
>>is that it is a 302 (auto). I didn't think they even had 289s in that
>>vintage.
>>
>>Anyone know what engine(s) were available for that year? I don't want to
>>travel a couple of hours to look at something that somebody has cobbled
>>up.


My father had a 68 Fairlane, a 71 Torino 500, and a 73 Gran Torino, all of
which had 302 engines.


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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 00:29:30 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: T-shirt design vote

We have 7 entries for the t-shirt contest on the web
site. You can view them at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/tshirt.html

Be patient, it will take a while to load them all. Some
of the designs are rough sketches. The concept is as
important as the design.

The top of this page will have a link to our voting
center. The vote lasts two weeks. All runner-ups will
receive a token of our appreciation in a few days after
the vote via the postal service. If you sent an entry
in, please email me at kpayne mindspring.com your
mailing address.

First prize is the prize pack mentioned last month. Its too
late for me to look it up what 1st prize is so I'll announce
that tomorrow.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 00:49:39 -0500
From: "Gary Semelka Sr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '73 F-150 Rear Break Drums

This is my first posting to this sight, so please excuse my ignorance.
I picked up a fixer upper "73 F-150" that had been sitting in a field for
several years. It needs break work badly (frozen calipers, leaking lines
and the right rear brake has a blown wheel cylinder).
I'm in a quandry, I haven't done any break work for years. How the heck
do you get the drum off. The Chilton's Manual I have says to remove the
three retaining bolts that hold the drum on. I can't find these bolts. The
rear brakes are not frozen and I have moved the shoes all the way in so they
are not binding.

I feel kind of stupid, I just can't figure out how to get them off. Any
help out there?

Gary S.

glsenior tri-lakes.net


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 23:15:34 -0700
From: Jason Topor
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Next 360 4bbl question

Mike:

I have 2 390s and both have Carter AFB (around the 635 cfm range). Both
run great. The nice thing about a Carter is you can change the Jets and
Metering Rods (metering rods function like a power valve in a Holley) in
about 10 minutes. Also I have had to remove a small piece of dirt which
was causing my needle to stay open and flood the engine. The process
took about 7 minutes. You don't have to replace the bowel gaskets when
changing the jets (unlike a Holley). Holley will give you better....


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