Ford Truck Enthusiasts Email List Archives

















61-79-list-digest Tuesday, October 13 1998 Volume 02 : Number 484



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Re - Starter Problems.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Flywheel interchange
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cure for carb backfire
Re: FTE 61-79 - Carter fixes
FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem
[none]
FTE 61-79 - RE: exhaust
Re: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cure for carb backfire
FTE 61-79 - What Engine to use?!
FTE 61-79 - Tweety Flies!
FTE 61-79 - smoke
FTE 61-79 - This and that
FTE 61-79 - Carter fixes
FTE 61-79 - Q-Jets
FTE 61-79 - Rebuildable Q-jets
Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 SWB
FTE 61-79 - Rallye Pack Source Needed
FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet carb
Re: FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rallye Pack Source Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet carb
Re: FTE 61-79 - Test valves with Compression test?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 > 351C transfer
Re: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet carb
FTE 61-79 - on board air again
FTE 61-79 - FE Intake
RE: FTE 61-79 - 240 > 351C transfer
FTE 61-79 - Next 360 4bbl question
FTE 61-79 - Re: Tweety Flies!

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:02:40 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re - Starter Problems.

From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re - Starter Problems.
Date sent: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 22:07:47 GMT

> The starter in my 400 just died this past week; you're saying I should
> replace it with a 460 starter, right? Are "they" gonna give me a hard time
> at the parts place when I trade in a slightly different core? Tia Rob '78

I did it but I asked them first and they said OK. Don't try to just stick it in
the box, most places check the box. You can use either starter on the 400
but I'm partial to the 4 pole. The 3 pole will burn up on the 460 eventually. I
buned up 2 before I went to the 4 pole.

You can also use the new starter on it, just order the 460 starter for a late
model truck but you have to jump a few terminals to make it work correctly.
I've been told it's a much better starter for modified engines etc.. I may be
looking into this myself since they are also smaller so clear things like
headers better than the old style. If you are not planning on getting a 460 or
modifying the 400 to more compression etc, then the old ones are good
enough.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:14:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Flywheel interchange

Date sent: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 15:26:14 -0400
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flywheel interchange
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)

> Speaking of flywheels. Can I use a 302 11" flywheel on a 351C. The reason
> I am asking is that I have a 351C flywheel that is balanced to my '72
> 351HO. I do not want to use it on the '74 351C 2V that I am building. I
> have a 302 flywheel laying around the shop and would like to have it
> balanced to match the '74 351C flexplate.

If they fit, balance it the only real issue. Clevelands are externally balanced,
302's are internally balanced.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:18:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cure for carb backfire

From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Date sent: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:46:09 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cure for carb backfire

> by lots of exhaust noise. The engine continued to run fine, so I kept
> going thinking that I had just trashed my rebuild. After getting to work,
> I looked underneath and and the muffler was blown wide open along its
> seam.

Brian, check your ignition wiring to make sure you don't have an
intermittant/loose connection somewhere. Old wires will corrod from the
inside with no external signs except for a little green spot where the copper
corrosion bleeds through the insulation. A poorly tuned carb or improper
timing that allows the engine to run well should not cause this but an
interrupted ignition will..........for sure :-(

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:30:43 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Carter fixes

You can use the edelbrock off-road needles . They are spring loaded, and
should go in the Carter. Check the summit and Jegs catalogs.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Masse
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 3:06 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Carter fixes


>Deacon wrote:
>>
>> From: Darrell Duggan
>> >problems. Seems the Holley 750 DP doesn't like to be bounced, as it
>> would
>> >flood and die if I didn't have it wide open. Oh well, just another
>> reason to
>> >convert to Holley Pro-Jection.
>>
>
>> Anyway the Holley is the wrong carb for what your doing. Try using an
>> Edelbrock or a Carter and I think you'll be much happier.
>
>I just put a Carter on my 351M for this very reason and for bounces it
>works a million times better then the Holley did. I was on a very steep
>rock hill yesterday though, and it kept flooding and killing just like
>the Holley used to. Is there anything I can do to the Carter to help it
>not flood out as easily on a hill??
>
> -Mike
> '78 Bronco
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:33:30 -0400
From: "Jay Grover"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem

Hi everybody,
I've got a strange clutch problem with my 1973 F-250 camper special (360,
T-18 4 speed). I've adjusted the clutch linkage out as far as possible, but
I can still not get the clutch to disengage. I've had clutches break before
and burn up, but I've never seen this.
The guy I bought the truck from gave me a homemade adjuster (the part that
fits between the throwout bearing arm and the threaded linkage rod. The
piece is about 5 inches long and seems to give enough movement at the
throwout bearing arm. I'm unsure though if this is long enough, as I don't
have a picture of the original clutch linkage or an original part.
Anyone like to hazard a guess? I'm tearing it down now to replace the
clutch, but I'd still like to understand what is happening.

TIA, Jay
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glasscity.net/users/jcg


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:10:04 -0400
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: [none]

Note: in many cases those who are being told that there are "heavy duty"
> and normal duty Ford starters are being mislead if it is factory. All
> have the same basic specs.

Not quite........there is a 4 pole which should be used on the 460 or 429
and I
use it on all my big block (335 and 385) engines. This is the same starter
in
every respect except it has a solenoid bendix system rather than positive
engagement type with the lever and moveable pole. The 4 pole has more
torque and a lower amp load so runs the 460 easier and is easier on the
battery. The frame, armature and fields are all the same stuff, just a
different
way to engage the bendix and the solid field pole allows for closer
tolerances
between the armature and poles for better torque.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- - -- Gary --

Err, ah, you are correct.

Just talked to dad on the weekend, (Canadian thanksgiving here), and he was
telling me that I was just a tad confused. (He is a retired Ford Electrical
Engineer at their Car and Truck plants in OAKVILLE Ontario.) He said the
same thing you stated. He looked up the part numbers that had been screwed
up and found that they were actually for a 300 CID six. In this case the
correct starter did have a different spec, but that was because it was not
the right starter. He suggested a "heavier" solenoid, (bendix?) for the
unit, and to make sure it parted out correctly. If you are using an engine
that has been modified with better/greater compression it could be a factor
here.

Sorry about the mix up. It seems that in my particular case it was a
printing error in the shop's manual, (alternator rebuilders manual, not
Ford's) that caused me the grief. It was about seven years ago. However,
if you have been given the wrong starter in your vehicle it could account
for this problem. I am running 10.8 to 1 compression, (milled heads, and
custom pistons, etc...). The biggest starter Ford used, (Delco Remy?) was
really for the Diesel engines in their commercial vehicles though. It is
Huge! Do not think that would work.

Bucked rivets in the truck plant in OAKVILLE for a summer job back in 1976,
(putting on the front disc brakes on the F-150 and F-250's, and "No" they
weren't recalled! But maybe they should have been?) ;>) Saw a lot of big
engines go into some of those beasts but didn't SEE any visible difference
in starters. Therefore, I am not sure 100% if they could just bolt in
without any mods, but if you put a 460/429-gas starter in it might work. I
did. (At least I think it was a 429/460 starter, had it for an extremely
long time under my bench in a box, etc...). Had no problem for the last six
or so years. Even after H.O. rebuild.

Hope this clarifies what I was talking about. Again sorry if I mixed anyone
up.

(Especially my dad, who I think, must have got ulcers raising me!) (No he
is not on this list, but he just got Internet access where he lives. (Very
rural, old telephone company.) Anyway I am going to try to see if might be
interested in this sort of thing. He is just a fountain of useful knowledge
about some of these questions. Many times coming to the same conclusions as
to what eventually appears to be the correct solution to the problem stated
on the list.)

"Paul"

Mr. Paul R. Boudreault
Retired RCAF/CAF

79 Bronco, 351M, 4BB, 4-speed manual, Body and suspension being
restored/rebuilt?
(Dad has one too! Since new, Ranger XLT, 351M, auto, fully loaded heavy duty
everything, well kept, and restored recently, stock. Probably why I love
them so!)

Sorry again for the confusion!

(I think I'm beginning to become accustomed to the taste of crow!) ;>)


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:10:04 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: exhaust

>I have a 78 F250 Supercab from Texas, it has dual exhaust with
glasspacks
and then
>approx 4' tubes which seem to be randomly crimped. The sound is really
great,
>anyone have any idea what the crimped tubes are?

There's a picture of something like what you describe in the
Summit catalog, called the "Thrush Turbo Tube". The caption sez "Exhaust
performance just for trucks". The "Special 'pinched' design allows
cross-flow between tuning chambers". So they say, anyway...

lordjanusz juno.com

"Unbreakable toys are good for breaking other toys"

___________________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:16:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration

William S Hart [wish iastate.edu] wrote:

You might also try setting the points with a
dwell meter instead of a feeler gauge. I checked my Cougar owner's manual
and it says to set any points with more than an hour usage on them with a
dwell meter, I got an okay one for about $30 at the local parts store,
they have some cheaper ones too.

Bill, I guess the FoMoCo people really meant it when they said no to use a feeler gauge. I put a new set of
points on last night (and check gap with feeler) and the truck seems to be running good.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:18:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cure for carb backfire

Gary wrote:
Brian, check your ignition wiring to make sure you don't have an
intermittant/loose connection somewhere. Old wires will corrod from the
inside with no external signs except for a little green spot where the copper
corrosion bleeds through the insulation. A poorly tuned carb or improper
timing that allows the engine to run well should not cause this but an
interrupted ignition will..........for sure :-(

I did this during the carb back fire phase and couldn't find anything amiss. Last night I put on a new set of
breaker points and so far, the thing is running well (keeping my fingers crossed). If I have more problems,
I'm going to just replace all the plug wires.

I guess there really is something to setting all these little things correctly....
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:20:52 -0400
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - What Engine to use?!

I have a 4x4 and am getting ready to build a new engine
>for it( I am thinking 351 Cleveland or a Windsor, any suggestions?)

All the engines made by Ford would be great. It all depends on what you
want.

460 comes to mind. :)

What about a 427 SOHC, Dual quad with (factory/Dealer?) tunnel ram?

Just dreaming again! Drool! ;>)

"Paul"

Mr. Paul R. Boudreault
Retired RCAF/CAF

79 Bronco, 351M, 4 BB, 4-speed manual, Body and suspension being
restored/rebuilt?




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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:28:06 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tweety Flies!

>any one know where i can find one of these "quadrasuck" carbs?
>They sound pretty good, thx for the help.
>
Hey! That's Quadrajunk to you, pal! :-)

And it is, hands down, the best carb of any size and description ever made.
If you have to use an adaptor, do it, it will still be the best carb going
and they are just about indestructible under harsh conditions. Fuel slosh
control is top notch if you get a later (~1977-on) one with the plastic
bowl insert.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:20:17 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - smoke

John,

Causes of rich fuel mixture, in order of most common amd easily checked, are:
1. extremely dirty air cleaner
2. choke butterfly not fully open after warm up
3. too large of jets in the carb
4. worn out needle and seat allowing fuel to overflow into the manifold
5. wrong heat range spark plug or just plain old worn out spark plugs.
Actually, any ignition components allowing a weak spark would exhibit the
same symptom.
6. a combination of any or all of the above.

You might also look at your spark plugs. If they are black and oily or have
hard crud on them, you are burniong oil. If they are black but dry, then
you are probably running rich. If you are burning enough oil to smoke, then
you are probbaly changing spark plugs quite often.

I believe oil smoke is bluish rather than white. It stinks like oil, too.
Rich mix smoke will smell like unburnt gasoline.

Again, I assume that you do not have smog equipment. Hope this helps.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, no more evidence of the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:26:25 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - This and that

Sorry Deacon, slight error. Quadrajets came on a lot of GM V8s, but no
where near all. They were first installed in the late sixties, probably 68.
Before the Qjet, GM used a 4jet which was not spread bore and was otherwise
vastly different. Beginning in 81 when smog computers came along, the Qjet
gained electronic components. So actually, you want to look for one off of
a model year between 68 and 80. I suggest getting one from about the same
size displacement as what you are going to install on. For instance, if the
Qjet was on a 350 and you put it on a 460, the jets are going to be all
wrong. This assumes of course that no one has played with the innards. I
put a Qjet from a 455 Buick on a 350 Chevy once. It really brought that 350
to life. My boneyard man said I could have a truckload for $50 apiece.

On serpentine belt setups:
If you use a serpentine belt such as in the 5.0 Fords, you will have to
change water pumps and fans. Because of the way the belt runs, these turn
backwards from other engines. My Lincoln has two of the multi-groove
v-belts which are often mistaken for the serpentine system. IMHO, this
would be an easier conversion for older FoMoCo engines. The water pump deal
might make the serpentine conversion impossible.

JCW doors:
I don't know about the quality, but I know that they are bare as in no
hardware. If you have a broken door handle, etc. figure this in too. A
bunch of that stuff is riveted in and is a challenge to get off and back
on. Been there, recently. Also, check out their shipping policy. It costs
about $60 to ship one door. Also, when I pulled my wing glass, it was
severely rusted underneath. My boneyard door had a good one. Remember,
don't try to reuse the bolts that hold the hinges to the door.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, no more evidence of the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 10:08:42 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Carter fixes

Hey Mike,

Is the Carter the same as a Weber and the same as an Edelbrock? Seems like
someone told me this....

If so, you can get a spring-loaded needle valve from Edelbrock...might help
this problem. I think I found mine in the Jeg's catalog. Another thing that
sometimes happens on steep hills is that the fuel spills out of the air inlet
tube for the fuel bowl (at least it did on my old Holleys). You can add a
couple inches of fuel line to this tube to help cut down on this possibility.

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:48:25 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Q-Jets

> Or a Quadrasuck...heh, heh, heh...You're right. Holleys don't like to
> go up, down, side hill or basically move from a standing position. For
> a carbuetor for my 4x4 I am strongly considering a Quadrasuck. They
> have monster secondaries and small primaries which causes both better
> gas mileage and hesitation on acceleration, but they flow ~800+ CFM and
> they sure don't mind tipping. I had my Chebby on a side hill so steep I
> thought I might roll, gas was spilling out of the cap, but that carb was
> idling happily away.

I've had great experience with Q-Jets myself, I really don't see a good
reason to run anything else unless I were planning to turn an engine
over 6000 rpm's alot. The float bowl is just a little small for that and
will starve out. I have a an '81 GMC feedback style carb on my '65 that
could have a partition cut out to one of the solenoid wells that ajoins
the bowl that would increase the bowl volume by a third, but I haven't
needed to so I haven't done it.

I heard people cuss them, but I'll tell you my opinion. For everyday
drivability and clean running there's nothing short of fuel injection
that can beat them. Now if I plan to go to the strip I'd go for the
biggest fattest Holley that doesn't wash out the rings. Two different
worlds.

I've done OK with Carters too. But it's been awhile since I've seen a
used one that didn't have a precious Mopar number applying to it. $200
for a rebuildable core? Maybe the Edelbrocks will begin to show up
used, though from what I've seen of them, they aren't quite what the
Carters were. Could be a few factors though that aren't the carb's
fault, who knows?

I've still got a whole shelf of rebuildable Q-Jets to choose from, and
kits are cheap.


- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:57:36 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rebuildable Q-jets

> I have a 4x4 and am getting ready to build a new engine
> for it( i am thinking 351 cleveland or a windsor, any suggestions?) Does
> any one know where i can find one of these "quadrasuck" carbs?
> They sound pretty good, thx for the help.

Go to the boneyards and look for an electric choke Q-jet. They usually
came on early eighties trucks. You should be able to get one for
$20-$40, then write down the application number on the side and find a
kit for it. NAPA has Echlin kits reasonably priced.

Good Luck.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:02:08 -0700
From: "sam weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 SWB

Do you think we could drive it back up to the Seattle area?
-srw

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Samuel
To:
Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 9:02 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 SWB


>There is a 65' SWB for sale next door.
>6Cyl, 3spd.
>Basically straight; dent in left side of the bed in-front of the wheel
well.
>"New clutch, T/out Brng." So say da sign.
>Looks like new exhaust too.
>Runs ok didn't see any smoke.
>Needs paint!
>White spoke wheels and good tires.
>I asked and the guy wants "$600 or so" but the sign says best offer.
>This truck needs TLC and a Twin Turbo 427 Cammer-C6 and tubs in the back
>covering some 20" wide Mickey's.
>Please come get this toy and give it a good home...
>Somebody get this truck away from me!!!
>Chris.
>
>Oh-ya; it's in Portland, Oregon.
>
>
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>

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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 11:44:56 EDT
From: LeeCraner aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rallye Pack Source Needed

After much head scratching on where to put a tach and clock in my 73 F 250, I
saw a great solution at a swap meet last Sunday. There was a '72 F 250 with
the steering column mounted tach and clock cluster from an early Mustang. It
seemed a practical and good looking solution that avoided any permanent damage
to the truck.

Does anyone know of a source for these gauges or dual gauge steering column
mounted housings, ala the 1965/66 Mustang? I imagine that originals are
probably expensive, but for my purposes a repro unit would be fine.

Lee
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:57:01 -0700
From: Eric Donaldson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet carb

Friends:
I've heard that a Q-jet can be found on top of a '71 429CJ. If true,
that Ford part number would really impress us Ford people.

Eric
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 11:58:23 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem

From: "Jay Grover"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Weird clutch problem
Date sent: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:33:30 -0400

> I've got a strange clutch problem with my 1973 F-250 camper special (360,
> T-18 4 speed). I've adjusted the clutch linkage out as far as possible,
> but I can still not get the clutch to disengage.

If you are using stock clutch pedal and bell crank then you should be able to
adjust the linkage till there is no free play at which point it should be very
easy to disengage. If you can't get that much adjustment either the disk is
worn beyond limits or you have the wrong linkage or after adjusting that way
it won't disengage then any or all of the throw out arm, bearing or clutch
pressure plate fingers or diaphram is damaged.

When you get it apart you should easily be able to discern which it is. A
worn belcrank pivot can cause this too but would have to be pretty sloppy.

Usually, but not always, the linkage is such that when you run out of free
play and the clutch won't disengage completely you need to replace the disk
and pressure plate and resurface the flywheel. Shade trees will replace the
disk only and get away with it for a while but it's not recommended. Springs
get weak from fatigue and heat and pressure plates warp. If you don't mind
the extra work of tearing it down fairly often then it could work out for you
but I would replace the whole deal and resurface the flywheel.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 11:09:10 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rallye Pack Source Needed

>After much head scratching on where to put a tach and clock in my 73 F 250, I
>saw a great solution at a swap meet last Sunday. There was a '72 F 250 with
>the steering column mounted tach and clock cluster from an early Mustang. It
>seemed a practical and good looking solution that avoided any permanent
damage
>to the truck.
>
>Does anyone know of a source for these gauges or dual gauge steering column
>mounted housings, ala the 1965/66 Mustang? I imagine that originals are
>probably expensive, but for my purposes a repro unit would be fine.
>

The really expensive one's have "eyebrows" over them, and are original part
numbers. However there are repro's available, I'd suggest checking with
AutoKrafters, and/or picking up a Mustang Mag .. I left mine at home today,
so I can't help you out. Seems like there's another place that specializes
in repro early mustang parts, but I can't think of the name right now, they
usually have a goodsized ad in Mustang Monthly....Branda, haven't done a
websearch to see if they're out here yet, but they might be.


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:04:33 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet carb

Date sent: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:57:01 -0700
From: Eric Donaldson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet carb

> Friends:
> I've heard that a Q-jet can be found on top of a '71 429CJ. If true,
> that Ford part number would really impress us Ford people.

68-71 Torino or Tbird as I recall. Only application I've run across. Found
that in an air filter cross referance or something like that.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:40:02 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Test valves with Compression test?

From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Date sent: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:50:10 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Test valves with Compression test?

> Will compression test tell if the valves are bad? In trying to diagnosis
> the backfiring, I ran the compression test and all cylinders look good.
> But if the valves (esp valve lash?) are slightly off, will it show up on
> the compression test?

In my experience the valves have to be pretty bad to cause serious loss of
compresson but can still backfire through the carb since all it takes is a small
spark to ignite the charge in the manifold. If you are getting "after fire" in the
exhaust system it could be electrical or bad carb adjustment or timing but
burned exhaust valves usually cause a ticking sound in the manifold area but
seldom cause after fire unless coupled with some other problem or the valves
are nearly gone in which case you should also be having trouble starting it
and the compression test would definitely show a problem.

I once had two clover leafed exhuast valves and the engine became hard to
start but didn't after fire as I recall. One day it just refused to start and the
other two cylinders had decent valves in them. Apparently the disruption
from the two bad ones and lack of the two cylinders was enough to keep it
from getting enough momentum to start. Keep in mind that both of these
valves had enough room in the clover leaves to stick a wooden pencil in the
gaps and it still fired!

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:57:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 > 351C transfer

From: "Kenny Realph"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 240 > 351C transfer
Date sent: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:02:05 -0400

> be involved in changing to a 351C and if it would be feasible to do so.
> I'm not even sure what all is on this 351 i.e. carb and various
> accessories.

Depends on what you have in there now. 351C, 351W and 302 all take the
same mounts and trannys and heads are interchangeable with some
machining but all three blocks are different. The 351C, 4V in a truck is not
much fun unless you set it up as a dragster but the 351W has many
advantages over it even in that situation with after market heads etc.. All
351's have virtually the same economy potential but the windsor probably
has the advantage there and of course the 302 should be even better,
properly set up but a 5000# brick requires X amount of fuel to push it down
the road at speed regardless so you will find little difference between engines
in the same truck which is one reason I always put 460's in mine :-)

> Is the 351C a big block? or is that the Windsor? is its gas
> mileage good or should I say better than mine (10-13MPG). Any info would
> be better than what I have now. Thanks.

351C is the forrunner to the 351M/400 or 335 series engine which is by
definition a small block due to the tranny flange but in reality is more like a
big block in size and weight and the later versions are still small blocks due
to bore spacing even though they acquired a big block tranny flange in the
351M/400 configuration which is compatible with the 429/460 or 385 series
transmisisons.

The 351W is considered a small block and runs in the same classes as the
350 chevy, shares many 302 parts and is a superior engine to the 335 series
for building hot engines due to design and parts availability etc.. It shares the
tranny flange with the 351C, 302, and I6 ford engines.


A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 11:16:37 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet carb

For those interested there's a feature on QJet tweaking in the November
issue of Petersens 4 Wheel & Off Road magazine. It deals with a unit off a
Ch*vy small block but most of the info is very generic.

- ----------

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:22:16 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - on board air again

hey all.

Got my compressor in last night. Since I did not originally have air,
I had to add the bracket, the idler/bracket, and change the pully on the
crank damp/pully. For some reason, I forgot to get the pully when I
pulled a complete AC system from a yard. I had a 69 351W sitting there
in the bed of my F-250 donor and it sure looked the same. Sure enough,
it was exactly what I needed. So, I bolted it all up, got a new belt and
fired her up. Soon as I powered up the clutch the comp spewed oil all
over the fan shroud and rad support. I'm not sure how long the oil is
gonna last, but it seemed to stop spewing after running a couple
seconds. It seems to shoot oil for a spell after the clutch engages, but
seems to be decreasing in the amount of oil it spews each time. I'm
hoping it just had a lot of oil inside the cyl due to me having the comp
upside down. I picked up an inline filter with a drain on it.

How do you get oil back in to the compressor?

I bought a 50'-3/8 line and cut it in half. I ran one part down the
frame and into the back of the truck. The other half I put quick disc
fittings on to use with air tools/chuck. I still have to figure out how
to adapt to old sears compressor tank I have, but I should have on board
air by this weekend. I really want this working as I have to change my
tires out in the woods twice this weekend.



OX
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 14:19:22 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Intake

Mike Elmer writes: >>Their is a spout 5" tall on the front that looks to
be a place to add oil my 2bbl manifold dosn't have that you add oil through
the valve cover,b)Their is a oil deflector on the bottom,the manifold was
in the weather for far to long upside down.

I may be too late but here goes. You have a manifold off an FE previous to
1962. Nothing wrong with them, just added the oil there instead of through
the rocker covers. If you have the late rocker covers, you can plug this
"pipe" with a "freeze plug" of the same diameter, and all will be well.
(the "pipe" is merely pressed down in the intake, and you might could
remove it completely and put a "freeze plug" directly in the intake, but it
won't hurt to leave it there.)

The pan on the bottom is not necessary - preferred but not necessary.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:04:32 -0400
From: "Kenny Realph"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 240 > 351C transfer

That answers my question. I Think I will leave the 240I6 in and change to a
2v instead of the 1V thats on it or if I come across a 302 maybe I'll use
that. Thanx

Kenny Realph
Service Engineer
Jobin Yvon, Emission
Midwest Office

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Gary, 78 BBB
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 9:57 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 > 351C transfer


From: "Kenny Realph"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 240 > 351C transfer
Date sent: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:02:05 -0400

> be involved in changing to a 351C and if it would be feasible to do so.
> I'm not even sure what all is on this 351 i.e. carb and various
> accessories.

Depends on what you have in there now. 351C, 351W and 302 all take the
same mounts and trannys and heads are interchangeable with some
machining but all three blocks are different. The 351C, 4V in a truck is
not
much fun unless you set it up as a dragster but the 351W has many
advantages over it even in that situation with after market heads etc.. All
351's have virtually the same economy potential but the windsor probably
has the advantage there and of course the 302 should be even better,
properly set up but a 5000# brick requires X amount of fuel to push it down
the road at speed regardless so you will find little difference between
engines
in the same truck which is one reason I always put 460's in mine :-)

> Is the 351C a big block? or is that the Windsor? is its gas
> mileage good or should I say better than mine (10-13MPG). Any info would
> be better than what I have now. Thanks.

351C is the forrunner to the 351M/400 or 335 series engine which is by
definition a small block due to the tranny flange but in reality is more
like a
big block in size and weight and the later versions are still small blocks
due
to bore spacing even though they acquired a big block tranny flange in the
351M/400 configuration which is compatible with the 429/460 or 385 series
transmisisons.

The 351W is considered a small block and runs in the same classes as the
350 chevy, shares many 302 parts and is a superior engine to the 335 series
for building hot engines due to design and parts availability etc.. It
shares the
tranny flange with the 351C, 302, and I6 ford engines.


A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 15:03:24 -0400
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Next 360 4bbl question

Hi again all,Well it seems I started quite a debate over the 390
manifold.Now the next question is,what should I look for in the way of a
carb,if I can't find O/E what will I be able to use.I'd rather not buy
new as my funds are starting to run low.Thanks to everyone for all the
input with the manifold question.Thanks again. Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 12:26:35 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Tweety Flies!

On Mon, 12 Oct 1998, "Eric Guin" wrote:



> I have a 4x4 and am getting ready to build a new engine
> for it( i am thinking 351 cleveland or a windsor, any suggestions?) Does
> any one know where i can find one of these "quadrasuck" carbs?
> They sound pretty good, thx for the help.

Don't put too much stock in what I said, it's kind of a standing joke....


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