61-79-list-digest V2 #480

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Email List Archives

>From kpayne

ford-trucks.com Sat Oct 10 14:32:02 1998
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 14:32:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-61-79-list-digest

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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V2 #480
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61-79-list-digest Saturday, October 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 480

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - RE: `78 F250 starter problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - off topic/timing advice/troubleshooting
FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches
FTE 61-79 - backfires
FTE 61-79 - spark plug wires
Re: FTE 61-79 - Will '85/'86 F100 parts fit '71 F100?
FTE 61-79 - Re: fuel tank switches
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches
FTE 61-79 - Newbie intro, Brake upgrade question.
FTE 61-79 - power loss at 2500 to 3000 RPM.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches
FTE 61-79 - 390 intake
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: September Archives
Re: FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 to 300 ??
FTE 61-79 - Smoke
FTE 61-79 - Always right????
FTE 61-79 - noisy valves on a 240
FTE 61-79 - FE intake
FTE 61-79 - Re: 390 manifold
Re: FTE 61-79 - Always right????
FTE 61-79 - More Specific-Drum/Drum Power Brakes for '61
FTE 61-79 - FE HP & Torque vs. 429/460
FTE 61-79 - Turn signal problems/Front Axle Question
FTE 61-79 - Re: 78 F250 starter problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Always right????
Re: FTE 61-79 - Always right????
Re: FTE 61-79 - More Specific-Drum/Drum Power Brakes for '61
FTE 61-79 - Oil Fill Neck

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 07:13:45 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: `78 F250 starter problems

Welcome Les. Man, this will try your patience.

Back in high school in '83 or so I rebuilt a 400 in an F250. I remember
that it was possible to put the ring gear onto the flywheel backward. We
put the flywheel in the snow for a few days to shrink it, and then torched
the flywheel to expand it, and beat the two together with brass hammers. I
remember the shop teacher being worried that there was no clear marking on
the ring gear to indicate which way it went on. This might be something for
you to pursue, but I'm not exactly sure how you could find out for sure.
You've gone through far too many starters for it to be a bad luck thing.

I'm also wondering if this has the ignition retard wire on the Duraspark
ignition and if that has failed somehow and if that could be rough on
starters. I'll have to defer to the rest of the group on this one.

Just a couple of ideas. Hope it helps.

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty

rmi.net

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 00:51:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hogan & Associates Insurance Brokers
Subject: FTE 61-79 -

>from day one this beast would consume starters. I used to carry a spare
at
>all times. Eventually, I got lucky and got one that worked for two or
>three years. When it died; I got a Bosch rebuilt which lasted two months.
>Tired of jacking with the truck I parked it.

>The truck came with the Positive Engagement Starter; and that is what I
kept
>buying until I noticed the shop manula calls for the Prestolite starter in
>400's and 460's. So, after having the Bosch starter rebuilt and fail in 2
>weeks; I have been through 3 of the rebuilt Prestolite's.

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Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 14:07:55 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - off topic/timing advice/troubleshooting

>it seems to have a possible timing problem- totally lacks power over
>2500-300 rpm in all gears. i have narrowed it to this beacuse i
>have already replaced cap, rotor, wires plugs and
>coil (all were on the way out), and cleaned the throttle body several
>times with carb cleaner and put fuel injector cleaner in and checked the
>fule filter
>
>so my question is how do you check timing on a fuel injected engine?
>or do you have any other suggestions as for what to look for?
>
I don't know how Jeep set up their ignition system's, it may be you can't
set it (my 96GT stang I can't change). One of my friends one time had a
5.0, those you just unplug the module on the dist. I think and then set the
timing like normal; anyway he set his at 0, said it ran really good to
about 2 grand, then nothin, 30 was his top speed (ever seen an 87 GT that
tops out at 30 ? :).

On the newer ones like mine, they say if something is modified or changed
in the emissions/ignition/fuel systems, unplug it, let it sit for a couple
hours or over night, the computer will "forget" everything it new about
running and relearn the mixtures and timing it needs. Runs pretty bad for
the first couple miles I guess, but makes up for it when you're done :)

Don't know how much of this is applicable, but hopefully it'll give you
some ideas whit might work.

Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 14:42:29 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches

>Hi
>
>My 1974 F350 has been converted to a welding truck before I bought it.
>
>On the right side of the heater/AC panel on the dash is a switch for
>
>main or aux fuel tanks. This is a factory item not a add-on. Does anyone
>
>know what and where I should look on the truck to see if I have all the
>
>item needed to use this switch, or how it worked.
>
>The Aux tank has been removed but I have one to go back on.
>
>There is a manuel valve under the driver side seat to switch tanks
>
>but would like to use the switch on the dash.
>
Someone correct me if I am wrong but I think the switch on the dash is for
the gauge only and you must switch the fuel with the manual valve. At
least that's the way my '68 is and I think my Dad's '74 (mind you this was
almost 20 years ago) was like that too.

Larry if you are keen to go electric, I have an electric valve I will trade
you for your manual valve. Email me direct if you are interested.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss

inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 14:54:14 -0500
From: "Dennis Witthuhn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches

i have a 79 with the factory dual tanks you have the switch so the next
question is do you have the valve that goes with it. it should be located
under the drivers side on the inside of the frame near the drivers door
- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, October 09, 1998 1:56 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches

>Hi
>
>My 1974 F350 has been converted to a welding truck before I bought it.
>
>On the right side of the heater/AC panel on the dash is a switch for
>
>main or aux fuel tanks. This is a factory item not a add-on. Does anyone
>
>know what and where I should look on the truck to see if I have all the
>
>item needed to use this switch, or how it worked.
>
>The Aux tank has been removed but I have one to go back on.
>
>There is a manuel valve under the driver side seat to switch tanks
>
>but would like to use the switch on the dash.
>
>
> TIA
>
> Larry
>
>
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>
>

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 14:54:42 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - backfires

Bill Ballinger,

Thanks for the explanation. I think I understand how it can happen now.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, no more evidnece of the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 15:04:08 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - spark plug wires

Brian, don't do that! My uncle the retired mechanic used to do it all of
the time. Dumb naive me tried it once when I was very very young. Ouch!
Don't ever touch a live plug wire while you are in water, it can be deadly.
If you want to check a wire, get a digital multimeter to check for
resistance. This will get you close enough to tell if the wire is broken,
the most common cause of total failure. If your wires are brittle or
cracked, they are old and probably need replaced. It is generally far more
desirable to replace the entire set rather than one wire. If you are
looking for a cylinder that isn't firing, take the wires off of the plugs,
slide the insulator boot back if possible, then set the wire on the plug
without snapping it on all the way. You can remove them one at a time with
an insulated gripping device easily while you are trouble shooting.

We once wanted to check a lawn mower magneto for spark to the plug so we
held a dog's tail up to the wire and pulled the rope. Thanks to the wet
grass, my dad, the dog and me all got a pretty good jolt. No permanent
damage was done to any of the three of us.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, no more evidnece of the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 16:13:37 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Will '85/'86 F100 parts fit '71 F100?

At 01:56 PM 10/9/98 +0000, you wrote:
>Here is one for anyone who has information or knowledge of the
>adaptability of later model trucks to my '71. A friend of mine is
>giving me what he believes to be an '85/'86 F100(no title). I want
>to widen my rear wheel base without buying a set of new wheels with
>specified offset. I want to put that rear houseing with my pumpkin.
>Does anyone see any reason why this will not work? I know it sounds
>like alot of work when simply ordering a set of wheels with specified
>offset would be alot easier(I love the black wheels on the Nascar
>edition ford truck.) But cost is the major issue. The swap would be
>free for the most part.
>Second the truck is equipped with disk brakes and a sway bar. I want
>them both. How easy would it be to swap the disk brakes to my truck?
>What about the sway bar? Any custom mods required to either? Thank
>and I look forward to hearing from you.
>
>Jim Brady
>'71 F100

See the disc brake swap guide on the web site.

Ken Payne

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 17:45:29 EDT
From: LeeCraner

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: fuel tank switches

Larry Schmiedekamp wrote:

"Does anyone
know what and where I should look on the truck to see if I have all the
item needed to use this switch, or how it worked.
The Aux tank has been removed but I have one to go back on.
There is a manual valve under the driver side seat to switch tanks
but would like to use the switch on the dash."

The switch you mentioned, Larry, switches the fuel gauge between the two
tanks. If flipping the switch now does nothing, I suspect the two fuel gauge
leads (under the bed) are wired together since the aux tank has been removed.
In the early 70's trucks this switch did not switch fuel lines, only the fuel
gauge leads. On later trucks, this switch switched both the fuel lines
(through an electric selector value mounted where your manual presently sits
as well as the gauge.

That's the bad news. The good news is that the later model switch fits right
where your present switch resides. So it is fairly easy to set up your '74 to
switch tanks just as the later Fords do. Your local Ford dealer can fix you
up with the later model switch (it's kinda pricey at around $50). Then,
replace the manual valve with an electric valve (also available through Ford
as well as J.C Whitney and your local parts store, I'm sure). Run a lead from
the new switch to the electric valve and you're all set.

I did the above on my '73 F250 and have never regretted it.

Lee
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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 17:15:36 -0500
From: "Dennis Witthuhn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Date: Friday, October 09, 1998 2:51 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches

>>Hi
>>
>>My 1974 F350 has been converted to a welding truck before I bought it.
>>
>>On the right side of the heater/AC panel on the dash is a switch for
>>
>>main or aux fuel tanks. This is a factory item not a add-on. Does anyone
>>
>>know what and where I should look on the truck to see if I have all the
>>
>>item needed to use this switch, or how it worked.
>>
>>The Aux tank has been removed but I have one to go back on.
>>
>>There is a manuel valve under the driver side seat to switch tanks
>>
>>but would like to use the switch on the dash.
>>
>Someone correct me if I am wrong but I think the switch on the dash is for
>the gauge only and you must switch the fuel with the manual valve. At
>least that's the way my '68 is and I think my Dad's '74 (mind you this was
>almost 20 years ago) was like that too.
ok correction, i have this setup on my 79 and it switches both the sending
unit and the switching valve
>
>Larry if you are keen to go electric, I have an electric valve I will trade
>you for your manual valve. Email me direct if you are interested.
> _
> _| ~~. John Strauss
> \, *_} jstrauss

inetport.com
> \( Texas Fight!
>
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>

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 16:22:09 -0700
From: "sam weatherby"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Newbie intro, Brake upgrade question.

A friend and i just bought a 65 F100 project truck.
One ot the first things I want to do is convert to dual resivoir master
cylinder.
I don't care if I go to power or not, I can always do that later when i
convert to front disc's.
Any thoughts on doing this? What MC should I use?
-srw

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 20:26:16 -0400
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power loss at 2500 to 3000 RPM.

I have been using my 71 f250 to drive my friend around while we try to
figure out what's wrong with his 95 jeep wrangler (some on topic subject
matter ;)) I figure i should go to the source of all gearhead
knowledge--this list!!
it seems to have a possible timing problem- totally lacks power over
2500-300 rpm in all gears. i have narrowed it to this beacuse i
have already replaced cap, rotor, wires plugs and
coil (all were on the way out), and cleaned the throttle body several
times with carb cleaner and put fuel injector cleaner in and checked the
fule filter

so my question is how do you check timing on a fuel injected engine?
or do you have any other suggestions as for what to look for?

Is this the top end of your motor? (Do you have usable RPM range above this
range stated?

Might want to check the spring weights in the distributor to see if your
timing curve is advancing to quickly. If I remember correctly (?) you can
remove the distributor and check the wieghts with a variable speed drill.
Spin the shaft at different speeds, progressively increasing it and you will
know if the weights are flying outwards too quickly.

Some of the other more knowledgeable members on the list can probably tell
you how to check this better. (Been a very long time since I did this!)

Hope this helps.

"Paul"
Mr. Paul R. Boudreault
79 Ford Bronco, 351M, 4 BB, 4-speed Manual, Body and suspension being
restored/rebuilt?

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 20:40:10 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches

All of you are talkin about switching from a manual switch to an electric, but
lemme suggest a drawback. My 74 has the manual selector, and everynight when
I'm done with it, I move the switch to "OFF" which is something the electrics
can't do. It sort of supplements the anti-theft that came with my Jacobs. I
figure not to many of the folks lookin for a vehicle to take on a joyride
would stop to check that. And they are likely to leave it where it runs out
so....................

Darrell Duggan aka JUMPINFORD

AOL.com
74 F-350 RangerXLT Super Camper Special
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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 22:43:34 EDT
From: NUTCH11

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 intake

hi

the pipe coming out of the front of the intake is for putting oil in and a
breather cap
you can plug it a freeze plug like plug i'm pretty sure the size is 1 3/8in.
the rear is where a road draft tube goes . it bolts onto the intake with 2
small
bolts you can make a cover and gasket easily. the early FE's pre 65 didn't
have any holes in the valve covers. if you are using the later system block
off the front and back and use newer valve covers.
as for the thin metal cover attached to the underneath of the intake, i don't
think
its all that neccessary. some intakes have them some don't.
the tray covering the bottom is for directing oil back to the oil pan, not or
catching broken pushrods. if you break pushrods i'd think you would have
bigger problems than worrying about catching the pieces.

see you

nutch

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Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 22:59:41 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: September Archives

September list archives are now on the web site.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 00:03:15 -0400
From: "Robert C. Owens"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems

Are you using the correct starter? 460 CI engines should use GM type
Starter with FORD nose. Hope this is of some help.
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Date: Friday, October 09, 1998 9:25 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems

>(snip)
>
>>from day one this beast would consume starters. I used to carry a spare
at
>>all times. Eventually, I got lucky and got one that worked for two or
>>three years. When it died; I got a Bosch rebuilt which lasted two months.
>>Tired of jacking with the truck I parked it.
>>
>(snip)
>
>>The bendix on these will woek fine when they are brand new, first
installed.
>>The motor cranks vigorously and starts on the first rotation. Eventually
>>the starter will make a horrible "grunge" noise which I identify as the
>>bendix failing to align into the flywheel. eventually the "grunge " noise
>>stops and the starter just whines. 2 "new " starters go back to their
parts
>>stores tomorrow. both bendixes will easily rotate back with minor
pressure.
>>
>This may be a gross oversimplification but if the bendix is the failure
>point, have you tried going to some sort of heavy-duty bendix meant for
>engines with high compression or something of the like? Does Summit have
>such a thing?
>
>>I have inspected the flywheel with a flashlight rotating the crank and see
>>no significant wear and no chipped teeth. the current motor was a long
>>block instal done in `90l, I think the shop would have noticed if it was
>>the wrong flywheel.
>>
>I would think that a flywheel problem would cause the starter to bind due
>to the shaft being forced sideways against the bushings until it wore them
>out.
>
>(snip)
>
>>If there are any ideas as to what may be causing this continual starter
>>failure I'd sure appreciate your input.
>>
>I would pursue it from the standpoint of WHAT PART of the starter is
>failing. If it is always the one-way clutch in the bendix, then that means
>that too much pressure is being put on it. Why I don't know, you would
>expect an engine that old to be worn out and not put up much of a fight
>against the bendix. But my recommendation is to try to find some sort of
>mega-bendix that can handle it.
> _
> _| ~~. John Strauss
> \, *_} jstrauss

inetport.com
> \( Texas Fight!
>
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>

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Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 00:06:02 -0400
From: "Robert C. Owens"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 to 300 ??

All external engine parts interchange between the 240 & 300 engine's
- -----Original Message-----
From: jj sanchez
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 12:56 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 240 to 300 ??

>QUESTION: When I pull 240 engine out of my 67 F-100 in favor of a 300
>remanufactured longblock, will I be able to re-use the sheet metal
>(valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, ect..) and clutch components?? Is
>there anything that won't swap over from the 240 ? I would appreciate
>any feedback or tips...
>
>
>______________________________________________________
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>

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 23:41:49 -0500
From: jedolson

juno.com (JOHN E DOLSON)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Smoke

On smoke:

Feel the inside of your tailpipe when it is cold with the engine off.
Black
oily residue means you are burning oil. Black dry residue means you are
running a rich fuel mixture. Dry black or dark gray residue is normal for
catalytic converter systems as is water dripping out of your tailpipe.
Dry
chalky white or light gray residue means you are running about as perfect
as you can get with no catalytic converter.

How would one go about adjusting the fuel mixture? I seem to have
the black dry residue. Is there anything I should watch out for while
adjusting fuel mixture? any common mistakes involved with this? would
this explain my white startup smoke?

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
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Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 21:46:16 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Always right????

Gary wrote,

"One of the reasons FE's have valley pans it to catch the push rods when
they bend and fall out :-)"

" because I'm always right :-) "

You proved yourself wrong in one digest.And besides, if you rev a FE
high enough to bend pushrods you deserve the pleasure of changing them.
I've had FEs for 20 years and never bent a pushrod or done any other
damage and I have reved the

#$% out of them.
I'll have say it again,if you don't like EFs don't buy one but don't
bad mouth them.Some of us are quite fond of Ford's finest engine.
They didn't build them for 18 years because they were junk,now did
they?Ford has made a few mistakes in the past,but the FE isn't one of
them.
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Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 00:55:12 EDT
From: Dugnla

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - noisy valves on a 240

Please excuse me first of all, i dont know who to address this to so i just
picked one and hit the reply button, hope ya'll dont get upset about that sort
of thing. I have a an old 240 in my truck which is being fixed up as i drive
it. Recently i replaced the vac. adv. diaphram (old one wasnt working, and
hasnt for a long while). when i set the timing and got the truck out on the
hi-way everything was fine until i reached cruising speed, thats when the
valves begin to rattle. if i let up on the gas or give it more gas it stops.
if i run it without the vac. adv. connected it runs like crap but with out the
valve rattle. i've adjusted the valves using three diff methods and none
reduced the rattle (obviously that isnt the prob but it didnt hurt) timing,
spark plug gap, point gap is all set by specs from chiltons Manuel. Things I
thought it could be: parts clerk sold me wrong vac adv. springs in distr.
maybe stretched. or (i think most likely) vacuum leak somewhere between the
carb and dist??? any help would be appreciated and sorry this is so long, just
thought i should give a little background info first.

thanks dug
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Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 21:59:25 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE intake

I have a Shelby aluminum {W/ FoMoCo part no.) FE intake W/the breather
hole in the back. It's got a blank steel cover over the hole.Oddly a
thermostat housing gasket fits under this plate perfectly.
If yours is set up like this you could use the gasket(or t-stat
housing)as a pattern to make a plate.
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Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 00:12:51 -0500
From: lordjanusz

juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 390 manifold

Quoth Mike:
>Hi again,Ok heres what I've found out. the manifold is from a 1964
>something.The casting # is C4SE-9425A.

"C4" = 1964, as you deduced.
"S" means it was a T-bird intake. As opposed to:
A= Ford (generic)
G= Comet/Montego
J= industrial/marine
K= Edsel
M= Merc (generic)
O= Fairlane/Torino
T= Truck
W= Cougar
Z= Mustang
"E" means it is an engine part (duh).
"9425" means it is an intake manifold (duh).
"A" means it is the original (unchanged) design.

All info from "How to Rebuild Big Block Ford Engines" by Steve Christ, a
GREAT source for FE trivia. Hope this helps.

lordjanusz

juno.com

"Unbreakable toys are good for breaking other toys"

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 23:16:25 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Always right????

From: J.S.H.
> I'll have say it again,if you don't like EFs don't buy one but don't
>bad mouth them

Take a chill pill dude, Gary's joking. Gary's just learning how to tell
jokes so give him a brake. :) By the way my FE360 bent a push rod and
broke the rocker shaft. I was told they're the FE's weak link so Gary's
right like always.

God that left a bad taste in my mouth!! :[

Deacon
deconblu

ca.eyi.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE HP & Torque vs. 429/460

- ---------------------- Forwarded by Cary A Peters/Audit/ErnstYoung/CA on
10/10/98 10:28 AM ---------------------------

Cary A Peters on 09/27/98 10:52:34 AM

To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
cc:
Subject: FE HP & Torque vs. 429/460
(Document link not converted)

Just curious what kind of HP stock FE's put out (I have a 360 2bbl.) vs. a
429 or 460. Also, if anyone knows, with the F150 4X4 4 spd and NP transfer
case what kind of torque is generated in low gear and in 4 - Lo. Thanks!
Geoff Peters
Kingston, New Brunswick, Canada
r342

unb.ca

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 10:29:48 -0300
From: Cary.A.Peters

ca.eyi.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Turn signal problems/Front Axle Question

- ---------------------- Forwarded by Cary A Peters/Audit/ErnstYoung/CA on
10/10/98 10:29 AM ---------------------------

Cary A Peters on 09/27/98 10:37:26 AM

To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
cc:
Subject: Turn signal problems/Front Axle Question (Document link not
converted)

1)I've been having some problems with turn signals on my '76 F150 4X4.
Here's what happens: With the key in the "ON" position, and the engine off,
the signals work fine. The minute I crank the engine over, regardless of
whether the turn signals are on or off, the fuse immediately blows. I've
checked all the sockets for shorts with a multi-meter, and have replaced
the voltage regulator to no avail. Any direction from anyone???
2)I have a Dana 44 front axle and Ford 9" in the rear. I have the
opportunity to get a junked '76 F250 for FREE with a Dana 60 rear end and
another 360 engine that I don't want or need, as well as some salvageable
body and accesory parts. My questiona are these: To do a rear axle swap:
a)Will the axle line up with the transfer case?? b)Is the front axle on the
Dana 44 the same size on my 1/2 ton as the 3/4 ton Dana 44? Is swapping
over to the 8 bolt hole rim as easy as getting a front brake rotor and hub
assembly from an F250 and putting it on? I realize calipers and other
things may be different, but are any modification required??
Thanks for your help!!!!
Geoff Peters
Kingston, New Brunswick, Canada
r342

unb.ca

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 10:51:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hogan & Associates Insurance Brokers
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78 F250 starter problems

At 02:53 PM 10/9/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>61-79-list-digest Friday, October 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 479
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 09:11:55 -0400
>From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re - Starter Problems.
>
>Hi.
>
>Have a 79 Ford Bronco which at one point ate starter like they were going
>out of style. Problem started because when the original starter was
>replaced by me at my local starter/Alternator rebuilding outlet they gave me
>the wrong "starter" for my 351M T18 4-speed manual. Apparently, there is
>some reference somewhere to a different starter for this flywheel, which is
>actual a load of #

$%, (substitute your adjective here).
on Fri, 9 Oct 1998 09:11:55 -0400
"Mr. Paul R. Boudreault" Wrote:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re - Starter Problems.

snipped...
>What I did not realize was that in my case the starter I needed was the same
>as the starter used on the 351M C6 combo. There is a small difference in
>"arm" length off the engage drive. Although the wrong starter would work
>for a short while, it tends to wreck the spring which holds it in contact
>with flywheel. Began to get strange looks from the shop because of course
>they were under warranty.
>
>Anyway I began to get very annoyed about this and played "twenty questions"
>with them over this issue. When finally it came to light which starter they
>had substituted for my original I enlightened them on the fact that in at
>least this particular set up Ford uses the SAME starter for the automatic as
>the manual. Slightly different arm length. Haven't had the problems since.
>
>Second Note; I installed a starter from a "460" I had kicking around, (just
>one of those things that end up in your garage you know), no problems!
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>"Paul"
>
>Mr. Paul R. Boudreault
>Retired RCAF/CAF
>
>79 Ford Bronco, 351M,4BB, 4-speed Manual, Body and suspension being
>restored/Rebuilt?

Paul,

this sure sounds like its worth exploring.

Is the shaft you refer to the one that the bedix is attached to, or the
solenoid's?
Was your starter shop able to just put in the correct length part?

I found a partial set of 1978 Ford shop manuals at a used bookstore not
long after I got the Truck. Sec 28 of vol 2 "Engine" shows 3 starters; the
Delco Remy for diesels. the Positive Engagement Starter, and the Prestolite.
The header of the Prestolite section states, "applies to 6.6L (400cid),
7.8L(475/477cid) and8.7L(534cid) engines".

the manual also covers C and 9000 (?) series vehicles, maybe the 400cid
was also used in the bigger trucks? The Prestolite fits and works in my
truck. Once I can get the right shaft, maybe it will work reliably.

Thanks again very much for your post.

Les Hogan

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:23:04 EDT
From: Dugnla

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Always right????

What's an FE??
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 09:13:41 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Always right????

>What's an FE??

It was an engine built by Ford. FE stands for Ford-Edsel. You can read
about it at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/fe.html

Deacon
deconblu

gte.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 09:27:43 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More Specific-Drum/Drum Power Brakes for '61

Vogt Family wrote:

> Well, I got some helpful advice on what I should do as far as power
> brakes for my '61, but I would like to know if the same setup can be
> used to power some much larger axles later. Right now I have just the
> standard 2" or whatever size drums on all 4 with all the same size wheel
> cylinders and a 4 way tee as the extent of the brake system. For now I
> would be content to have just any power MC with dual resivoirs. With
> the help of my local hydraulics shop I can fab up just about any lines I
> may need. What I would like to know is since I will later convert the
> running gear to a disc-braked Dana 60 front and a much larger braked
> Dana 70 drum rear, would I still be able to use the same MC (drill or
> remove the front residual pressure valve, of course), or will I need
> another one again? The reason I ask is if I need another, I will just
> buy the first one from a junk yard, hone it out, and install new
> rubbers. If I can use the same one for both, than I will buy a new one
> now.
>
> Birken

You really should use a drum/drum master cylinder with a drum/drum brake
set up. The disk/drum setup uses a different master cylinder.

If you upgraded the master cylinder to a 1 ton unit your peddle stroke
might be all of 2" as the 1 ton unit moves a greater volume of fluid.
because of the larger bore. The best thing you should do is upgrade to the
correct master cylinder when you upgrade the axles ( if 6 months or less).
If your plans for an axle upgrade are going to be a year or more than
upgrade to the dual drum/drum master cylinder and proportioning valve and
lines now and change to the disk/drum master cylinder later.

When I installed a 78 front end 3/4t ( twin piston brakes) in my 63 I
origionally used a 77 F-150 master cylinder. The peddle dropped right to
the floor( didn't move enough fluid to activate the brakes) Ran down to
the parts store (truck has no brakes) and picked up a correct 78 F-250
master cylinder and the brakes worked great.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon
ICQ# 19575234

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 14:29:24 -0400
From: The Neighbors
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Fill Neck

Mike wrote: "Hi again all,Well I'm in the home strech of my 360
rebuild,I've located
a 4bbl manifold off a 390 and I've got a couple questions.a)Their is a....

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