61-79-list-digest V2 #479

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Email List Archives

>From kpayne

ford-trucks.com Fri Oct 9 14:53:59 1998
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 14:53:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-61-79-list-digest

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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V2 #479
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61-79-list-digest Friday, October 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 479

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Re: Gas Tank Relocation
FTE 61-79 - Re: Gas Tank Relocation
FTE 61-79 - 390 manifold(more info)
FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration
FTE 61-79 - Re - Starter Problems.
FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration
FTE 61-79 - Fill Spout
Re: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351c spark plugs
FTE 61-79 - Re: Gas tank relocation
Re: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration
FTE 61-79 - Lean Backfire
FTE 61-79 - FE Valley Pan
FTE 61-79 - FE Valley of Flames
[none]
Re: FTE 61-79 - Differentials...
FTE 61-79 - FUEL FILTERS
FTE 61-79 - Will '85/'86 F100 parts fit '71 F100?
Re: FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems
FTE 61-79 - Re:
Re: FTE 61-79 - Will '85/'86 F100 parts fit '71 F100?
FTE 61-79 - off topic/timing advice/troubleshooting
FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 manifold - since the flames have started already

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 06:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon

uss.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Gas Tank Relocation

shawn,

I've done a mid frame tank relocation (behind chunk) on my '53...don't
know if the frame rails are the same width (probably not) but I used a
mid 60's Mustang tank and will put the filler hose in the bed. There
is also an Isuzu Trooper tank that fits the mid 50 trucks. All you
need to do is measure the distance between frame rails....and head for
the junk yard and find a suitable donor. Keep in mind where you want
the filler neck to exit (behind rear tire, in bed, below tailgate,
etc. There are also after market mfgs who will make a metal or poly
tank for your application. One is Tanks, inc.

There are a couple of good articles on Custom Classic Trucks and
Classic Trucks on this swap for mid 50's...wrong year I know but good
reference...the index to these mags is available on the FTE web site
under user contributions...

hope this helps

John
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 08:02:26 -0400
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 manifold(more info)

Hi again,Ok heres what I've found out. the manifold is from a 1964
something.The casting # is C4SE-9425A.I still dont know about the
spout,do I use it or cap it off.After having it dipped and blasted,the
pan is still pretty in tact where I think I can still use it.Thanks Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 08:10:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration

Any suggestions on what will cause backfiring during hard acceleration? It doesn't happen if I do a nice,
easy acceleration, but when I stomp it, the thing (352) backfires multiple times and darn nearly kills the
engine. Perhaps it is somehow related to the acclerator pump? BTW the carb is a 2 barrel from a 1966
Ford. Points and timing appear to be ok via feeler gauge and timing light, but there is a noticable, steady
"lope" in the engine that increases with rpm's.

One more thing, I was trying to ID the lope by pulling plug wires while watching engine performance, but
kept getting the !!!!! shocked outta me. Should I replace the plug wires? This isn't normal is it?
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 09:11:55 -0400
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re - Starter Problems.

Hi.

Have a 79 Ford Bronco which at one point ate starter like they were going
out of style. Problem started because when the original starter was
replaced by me at my local starter/Alternator rebuilding outlet they gave me
the wrong "starter" for my 351M T18 4-speed manual. Apparently, there is
some reference somewhere to a different starter for this flywheel, which is
actual a load of #

$%, (substitute your adjective here).

What I did not realize was that in my case the starter I needed was the same
as the starter used on the 351M C6 combo. There is a small difference in
"arm" length off the engage drive. Although the wrong starter would work
for a short while, it tends to wreck the spring which holds it in contact
with flywheel. Began to get strange looks from the shop because of course
they were under warranty.

Anyway I began to get very annoyed about this and played "twenty questions"
with them over this issue. When finally it came to light which starter they
had substituted for my original I enlightened them on the fact that in at
least this particular set up Ford uses the SAME starter for the automatic as
the manual. Slightly different arm length. Haven't had the problems since.

Was a little ticked off about the fact that the starters were "eating" the
ring gear teeth like kids eat cheerios. Ended up wielding a new ring gear
on because of this.

How did I know this? My Dad was an Electrical Engineer at Ford of Canada
Truck plant in Oakville Ontario. I remember him telling me that when Ford
wanted to save some money they in their infinite wisdom decided to use the
same starter in as a many vehicles as possible. This comes as a surprise to
a lot of GM owners who are constantly being overwhelmed by "proprietary"
(that model only), hardware for their model of vehicle.

Note: in many cases those who are being told that there are "heavy duty"
and normal duty Ford starters are being mislead if it is factory. All have
the same basic specs.

This may not apply to aftermarket. I don't know about those. Ford starters
are usually pretty durable though, so I wonder if your having the same
problem I had.

Second Note; I installed a starter from a "460" I had kicking around, (just
one of those things that end up in your garage you know), no problems!

Hope this helps.

"Paul"

Mr. Paul R. Boudreault
Retired RCAF/CAF

79 Ford Bronco, 351M,4BB, 4-speed Manual, Body and suspension being
restored/Rebuilt?

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 08:20:43 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems

(snip)

>from day one this beast would consume starters. I used to carry a spare at
>all times. Eventually, I got lucky and got one that worked for two or
>three years. When it died; I got a Bosch rebuilt which lasted two months.
>Tired of jacking with the truck I parked it.
>
(snip)

>The bendix on these will woek fine when they are brand new, first installed.
>The motor cranks vigorously and starts on the first rotation. Eventually
>the starter will make a horrible "grunge" noise which I identify as the
>bendix failing to align into the flywheel. eventually the "grunge " noise
>stops and the starter just whines. 2 "new " starters go back to their parts
>stores tomorrow. both bendixes will easily rotate back with minor pressure.
>
This may be a gross oversimplification but if the bendix is the failure
point, have you tried going to some sort of heavy-duty bendix meant for
engines with high compression or something of the like? Does Summit have
such a thing?

>I have inspected the flywheel with a flashlight rotating the crank and see
>no significant wear and no chipped teeth. the current motor was a long
>block instal done in `90l, I think the shop would have noticed if it was
>the wrong flywheel.
>
I would think that a flywheel problem would cause the starter to bind due
to the shaft being forced sideways against the bushings until it wore them
out.

(snip)

>If there are any ideas as to what may be causing this continual starter
>failure I'd sure appreciate your input.
>
I would pursue it from the standpoint of WHAT PART of the starter is
failing. If it is always the one-way clutch in the bendix, then that means
that too much pressure is being put on it. Why I don't know, you would
expect an engine that old to be worn out and not put up much of a fight
against the bendix. But my recommendation is to try to find some sort of
mega-bendix that can handle it.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss

inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 08:30:47 -0500
From: Mike Masse
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration

bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu wrote:
>
> Any suggestions on what will cause backfiring during hard acceleration? It doesn't happen if I do a nice,
> easy acceleration, but when I stomp it, the thing (352) backfires multiple times and darn nearly kills the
> engine. Perhaps it is somehow related to the acclerator pump? BTW the carb is a 2 barrel from a 1966
> Ford. Points and timing appear to be ok via feeler gauge and timing light, but there is a noticable, steady
> "lope" in the engine that increases with rpm's.

My 351M did this when it had a burned exhaust valve.

-Mike
'78 Bronco
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 08:35:12 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fill Spout

- -
>Hi again all,Well I'm in the home strech of my 360 rebuild,I've located
>a 4bbl manifold off a 390 and I've got a couple questions.a)Their is a
>spout 5" tall on the front that looks to be a place to add oil my 2bbl
>manifold dosn't have that you add oil through the valve cover,b)Their is
>a oil deflector on the bottom,the manifold was in the weather for far to
>long upside down.I've had it bead blasted and painted and the deflector
>it quite rotted,can I leave it off or use it or try to replace it.Thanks
>in advance to all.

The spout in front is an oil filler, and if you look in back you'll see
an appendage or a hole where a road draft tube goes. This was the way
crankcase gasses were evacuated from pre-'65 FE's. To use this intake on
a modern style PCV system you need to plug these holes off. The factory
did it with core plugs. I have a '65 T-bird intake that was cast in '64
(C4SE with a 4 in the year digit of the date stamp) that has core plugs
in these two locations. I haven't measured them, so I don't know what
size they are. In later castings the holes aren't there.
- -
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 08:34:49 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration

>Any suggestions on what will cause backfiring during hard acceleration?
It doesn't happen if I do a nice,
>easy acceleration, but when I stomp it, the thing (352) backfires multiple
times and darn nearly kills the
>engine. Perhaps it is somehow related to the acclerator pump? BTW the
carb is a 2 barrel from a 1966
>Ford. Points and timing appear to be ok via feeler gauge and timing
light, but there is a noticable, steady
>"lope" in the engine that increases with rpm's.
>

This sounds like a problem similar to mine, if I stepped on it lightly, or
feathered the gas a lot I could keep it running, but if I just stepped on
it, it backfired and died. A couple of things to check would be the carb,
I rebuilt mine and it got better for a while, then I was able to adjust it
and get most of it out. Another thing is if it is worse when its cold,
check the choke, when a car isn't getting choked enough early in the warm
up cycle this can happen. You might also try setting the points with a
dwell meter instead of a feeler gauge. I checked my Cougar owner's manual
and it says to set any points with more than an hour usage on them with a
dwell meter, I got an okay one for about $30 at the local parts store,
they have some cheaper ones too. The lope makes me think its probably
timing or points (assuming you didn't put a custom cam in it).

What I did to get mine worked out was put a 4V on ... j/k, I went to all
factory settings for everything, .035 plug gap, 6deg timing, and 17 or 18
for points. This all smoothed it out and gave me a good baseline to figure
out what worked and what didn't. (ie not just setting the timing at 10 or
12 because i'll get more power, but working to it and seeing how it affects
things)

>One more thing, I was trying to ID the lope by pulling plug wires while
watching engine performance, but
>kept getting the !!!!! shocked outta me. Should I replace the plug wires?
This isn't normal is it?

Its not often I, or anyone I know for that matter, grabs hot plug wires, if
we do we wrap a towel around our hands and make sure we're not touching
anything on the vehicle other than that. According to my tractor power
book, Tractors and Their Power Units, page 141 says "voltages of 10,000 to
20,000 V at the spark plug." This is talking about breaker points just
like you're using, so grabbing the wires and unplugging them is probably
not a good idea...

I'm sure the other members will have some better ideas, as I did all this
before I started reading the list, but maybe I actually got enough to get
you started.
Just my 2cents

Bill

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 06:56:42 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351c spark plugs

Thanks for your message at 11:46 PM 10/8/98 -0600, BJ Tiemessen. Your
message was:
>What year is the 351C? I have a shop manual that would have the recomended
>gap. The plugs for the 351C are the same ones used for the 351M and 400. I
>have had bad experiences with Champion plugs failing. I recomend
Motocraft or
>Autolite (same?) plugs.
I have had excellent with the Bosch "premium" (expensive) plugs. I'm
sitting here at my desk and can't remember the official name for them...

A very good set of plug wires will help also.

Very true. I used to take my wires for granted, not changing them very
often at all. I now kick myself, after seeing (feeling) just how much
difference a good set of wires makes.

I have
>a set of wires from Jacobs Electronics, they have very little resistance and
>took a lot of static out of my radio.

I always thought the high resistance wires were for quiet radios...unless
the old wires were so bad they were "leaking" static...

Oh yeah...I also used the distributor cap with the gold contacts. I can't
document it, but along with everything else, the tune-up really brought my
351C to life...

>Jack Fleming wrote:
>
>> I've got a 351C in my '54 f100 - it definitely needs a tune up, and I don't
>> trust that the plugs currently in it are the right "type". You folks on
>> this list have considerably more experience with this type of engine than
>> the folks on the "pre-61" list, so could someone recommend a replacement
>> spark plug and give me the gap, timing, etc info? Many thanks.
>>
>> Jack
>> '54 F100
>

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed (just got this one)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
1970 Marquis 429(destined for the Mustang)
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1960 Falcon 2-dr
1996 Windstar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:44:03 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Gas tank relocation

Shawn,
Like you, I took removed the in-cab gas tank from my 68 F100 longbed
(toolbox and dual exhaust too). I replaced it with a 20 gallon Ch*vy
'sidesaddle' tank from a C10, which I mounted under the driver's side.
As you'll recall, this is the infamous exploding Ch*vy tank (if you get
t-boned by another car, the tank gets squashed between the other car
and the truck's frame. There is little protection for the tank when
mounted side-saddle). I thought it would be safer to get the tank out
of the cab, and hey, I have asbestos underwear anyway. The list had a
discussion about the relative safety of different gas
tank placement sometime ago. Some people thought the in-cab tank was quite
safe, others did not. You'll have to make that decision on your own.

Anyway, the 20 gallon Ch*vy tank required that I cut some of the driver's
side floor (so the tank would fit). I think you can fit a 16 gal Ch*vy
tank (from a shortbed/stepside C10) in without cutting the floor.
You'll have to figure out how to hook your gas gauge up (the ohms on the
Ford sender unit are differenet), but the filler neck came into the
rear wheel-well (without being close to the tire). I left it there,
instead of cutting a hole in the side of the bed (which would have
been easy to do). When I get gas, I just stick the nozzle into the
wheelwell and fill 'er up.
The tank hangs down a bit (maybe 2 inches below the rocker panels),
but I've never bottomed it out. Overall, I'm pleased with the setup.
I now hold 20 gallons and have more room in the cab.
Some others on the list have used tanks from a Granada (and mounted it
behind the rear axle). You may have to remove your spare tire, and I'm
not sure where the filler neck would be if you used the Granda tank.

>
>I have a 68 F100 longbed 2wd pickup and want to move the gas tank out of
>my cab and
>under the bed. Does anyone know what tank i could use to mount under my
>bed somewhere? It has dual exhaust and the toolbox/storage area on the
>passenger side.So i
>assume behind the rearend or driver side is the only options if it will
>infact fit on the driver
>side. I'm aware of kits you can buy to do move it frrom the cab, but i
>would rather do it
>myself and save some money. Any suggestions?
>
>Shawn Donkin
>donkin

wnm.net

1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)
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Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 09:47:20 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - BAAAD Backfire during hard acceleration

Bryan

My guess would be not enough fuel.

At 08:10 AM 10/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Any suggestions on what will cause backfiring during hard acceleration?
It doesn't happen if I do a nice,
>easy acceleration, but when I stomp it, the thing (352) backfires multiple
times and darn nearly kills the
>engine. Perhaps it is somehow related to the acclerator pump? BTW the
carb is a 2 barrel from a 1966
>Ford. Points and timing appear to be ok via feeler gauge and timing
light, but there is a noticable, steady
>"lope" in the engine that increases with rpm's.
>
>One more thing, I was trying to ID the lope by pulling plug wires while
watching engine performance, but
>kept getting the !!!!! shocked outta me. Should I replace the plug wires?
This isn't normal is it?
>Bryan Kirking
>66 Step Side
>352 4 speed
>Houston, Texas
>
>
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:03:26 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Lean Backfire

> An exhaust leak will just be real noisy and depending on the location allow
> carbon monoxide in the cab with you. Honey, you look a little blue around
> the edges.
>
> A rich mixture will allow basically raw fuel to go into the exhaust system
> particularly when coasting and vacuum is at max. Heat and/or leaking
> exhaust valves can ignite this mixture causing a backfire out the tailpipe.
> This is also what explodes mufflers.
>
> In every case that I know of, there is some abnormality that causes the
> backfire. What am I missing?

An exhaust manilold leak can cause a lean backfire. So can too short of
an open header or manilold. Sometimes even a hole in the exhaust pipe
can do it, but usually only if it's up close to the manifold or header.

During the last part of the exhaust stroke, the intake valve will begin
to open. This is called the overlap period. There will always be some
"end-gas" (unburned mixture and residue from the fuel's additives)left
in the cylinder after combustion and despite the best efforts of the
exhaust stroke. Tne quantity depends on the quality of "pulse-tune" of
the exhaust. The "pulse" when in proper synchronization and of
sufficient duration, will scavenge most of the "end-gas" out. Pulse
amplitude science is a whole nuther subject, but you get the picture?

When you have a bad leak, or too short of an open header or manifold,
the "pulse" signal is weak and ustable, in the case of a leak, or too
short, in the case of too short of an exhaust. Short waves are good for
high-rpm's, long ones are good for lower speeds. Anyway, as a result,
more "end-gas" will be left in that cylinder, diluting and leaning the
next incoming mixture. If the engine is just poking along, it will
likely go ahead and burn the mixture without mishap, though it will idle
like the carb is lean, which it is, though not of it's own device.
(Thats why richening the carb is usually necessary when you uncork the
headers)

But then let's say you put a sudden demand on the engine. Under low
manifold vacuam conditions the engine will actually suck some exhaust
back in on each stroke, this is called reversion. The cylinders closest
to the leak (or all cylinders in the case of too short of an exhaust)
will gulp in a much higher concentration of fresh oxygen, further
leaning the mixture. Then, you get off of the gas, which really leans
the mixture.

You have a very oxygen rich mixture, without anything to stabilize it.
You've heard the result.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
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Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:22:39 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Valley Pan

> One of the reasons FE's have valley pans it to catch the push rods when
> they
> bend and fall out :-)

( Bill chasing Gary around with Flamethrower)

Ha! So you've never been flamed before? Take that! WWWHHHHHRRRFFFF!.
C'mon FEnatics, let's git 'im!!!!!

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
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Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 10:38:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Valley of Flames

> One of the reasons FE's have valley pans it to catch the push rods when
> they
> bend and fall out :-)

( Bill chasing Gary around with Flamethrower)

Ha! So you've never been flamed before? Take that! WWWHHHHHRRRFFFF!.
C'mon FEnatics, let's git 'im!!!!!

Drop the flame thrower and lure him over by my carb, here comes another flaming backfire! (How ironic that
my engine is a FE..)

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas

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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 09:53:27 -0700
From: "Brodie, Doug"
Subject: [none]

>Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 00:51:51 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Hogan & Associates Insurance Brokers
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems
>
>If there are any ideas as to what may be causing this continual starter
>failure I'd sure appreciate your input.
>
>Thanks very much,
>
>Les Hogan
>Central Texas

I have a '79 F250 4X4 (bought it a month ago) that's in the process of
killing a starter now. It's an automatic and I would be interested if any
one could dispense any good advice my way concerning preventive measures
that I could take to prolong the life of the next starter I install. Also,
I have heard talk about Ford starters only engaging half of the ring gear.
So when one half gets worn out you can flip it over and start on the other
side. Wouldn't it be better if the starter engaged all the way across the
ring gear? Has anyone come up with a cure for this?
Two more questions - What is the main difference between an NP203 and an
NP205 and which one is better for which applications(rock crawling, sand,
standard vs. auto etc.)?
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 13:47:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Differentials...

Thanks Jay, I'll do that.
>
> Hi Justin,
> Just jack your truck up so both tires are off the ground. Turn one wheel by
> hand. If the other wheel turns the same direction, its a locking (non-slip)
> differential. If the other wheel turns the opposite direction its an open
> differential.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Justin Farcas
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 1:54 PM
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Differentials...
>
>
> >About draining and refilling differentials...
> >How do I know whether I have a Ford locking or non slip differential or
> >not? Manual says to look on door sticker, which is ripped off by now.
> >Thanks.....
> >
> > Justin Farcas --
> >
> >
> > MOTHER, TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO WALK MY WAY
> > TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO HEAR MY WORDS
> > WHAT THEY MEAN, WHAT THEY SAY
> > MOTHER
> >
> > MOTHER
> > CAN YOU KEEP THEM IN THE DARK FOR LIFE
> > CAN YOU HIDE THEM FROM THE WAITING WORLD
> > OH MOTHER
> >
> > FATHER
> > GONNA TAKE YOUR DAUGHTER OUT TONIGHT
> > GONNA SHOW HER MY WORLD
> > OH FATHER
> >
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

- --

MOTHER, TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO WALK MY WAY
TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO HEAR MY WORDS
WHAT THEY MEAN, WHAT THEY SAY
MOTHER

MOTHER
CAN YOU KEEP THEM IN THE DARK FOR LIFE
CAN YOU HIDE THEM FROM THE WAITING WORLD
OH MOTHER

FATHER
GONNA TAKE YOUR DAUGHTER OUT TONIGHT
GONNA SHOW HER MY WORLD
OH FATHER

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 13:50:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FUEL FILTERS

I have a 4 barrel Edelbrock carb on my 79 460. It started acting up a
fews days ago, it idled real hard and stalled when it was cold. I
checked teh fuel filter.....there was none. Possible?
--

-Justin Farcas

MOTHER, TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO WALK MY WAY
TELL YOUR CHILDREN NOT TO HEAR MY WORDS
WHAT THEY MEAN, WHAT THEY SAY
MOTHER

MOTHER
CAN YOU KEEP THEM IN THE DARK FOR LIFE
CAN YOU HIDE THEM FROM THE WAITING WORLD
OH MOTHER

FATHER
GONNA TAKE YOUR DAUGHTER OUT TONIGHT
GONNA SHOW HER MY WORLD
OH FATHER

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 13:56:33 +0000
From: "bradyiii"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Will '85/'86 F100 parts fit '71 F100?

Here is one for anyone who has information or knowledge of the
adaptability of later model trucks to my '71. A friend of mine is
giving me what he believes to be an '85/'86 F100(no title). I want
to widen my rear wheel base without buying a set of new wheels with
specified offset. I want to put that rear houseing with my pumpkin.
Does anyone see any reason why this will not work? I know it sounds
like alot of work when simply ordering a set of wheels with specified
offset would be alot easier(I love the black wheels on the Nascar
edition ford truck.) But cost is the major issue. The swap would be
free for the most part.
Second the truck is equipped with disk brakes and a sway bar. I want
them both. How easy would it be to swap the disk brakes to my truck?
What about the sway bar? Any custom mods required to either? Thank
and I look forward to hearing from you.

Jim Brady
'71 F100
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 14:33:17 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems

Heat soak might be killing the starter. Is there an exhaust pipe running
right beside the starter? a little heat shielding might make a world of
difference.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Hogan & Associates Insurance Brokers
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, October 09, 1998 12:54 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - `78 F250 starter problems

>This is my first post to the group. My sincere thanks to Ken Payne for the
>forum.
>
>I've owned my 78 F250 since `88 when I bought it for $700. It was a
>beater, but it ran. The setup is according to the VIN code: 400m; 4spd
>trans; NP205; 4.1 posi-trac rear end etc.
>
>from day one this beast would consume starters. I used to carry a spare
at
>all times. Eventually, I got lucky and got one that worked for two or
>three years. When it died; I got a Bosch rebuilt which lasted two months.
>Tired of jacking with the truck I parked it.
>
>The truck came with the Positive Engagement Starter; and that is what I
kept
>buying until I noticed the shop manula calls for the Prestolite starter in
>400's and 460's. So, after having the Bosch starter rebuilt and fail in 2
>weeks; I have been through 3 of the rebuilt Prestolite's.
>
>The bendix on these will woek fine when they are brand new, first
installed.
>The motor cranks vigorously and starts on the first rotation. Eventually
>the starter will make a horrible "grunge" noise which I identify as the
>bendix failing to align into the flywheel. eventually the "grunge " noise
>stops and the starter just whines. 2 "new " starters go back to their
parts
>stores tomorrow. both bendixes will easily rotate back with minor
pressure.
>
>I have inspected the flywheel with a flashlight rotating the crank and see
>no significant wear and no chipped teeth. the current motor was a long
>block instal done in `90l, I think the shop would have noticed if it was
>the wrong flywheel.
>
>The one good starter I had lasted about 4 years; and all these "new " units
>work fine when they are newly installed . It seems to me if the flywheel
>was bad or an incorrect unit that none of these would have worked, much
less
>one for 4 years.
>
>I am not using FOMOCO starter bolts; they are hardened automotive bolts.
>it may be that all these rebuilt startes are just junk. Anyone know of a
>good source for a new, American made starter?
>
>The clutch seems just fine; otherwise having a new clutch installed would
>give quick verification as to the flywheel situation. Our trans guy quoted
>me $500 for a new clutch; $300 to put on a new flywheel 2 years ago. i
have
>neither any trans experience or a trans bracket for my floor jack.
>
>If there are any ideas as to what may be causing this continual starter
>failure I'd sure appreciate your input.
>
>Thanks very much,
>
>Les Hogan
>Central Texas
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 13:35:36 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:

>I have a '79 F250 4X4 (bought it a month ago) that's in the process of
>killing a starter now. It's an automatic and I would be interested if any
>one could dispense any good advice my way concerning preventive measures
>that I could take to prolong the life of the next starter I install. Also,
>I have heard talk about Ford starters only engaging half of the ring gear.
>So when one half gets worn out you can flip it over and start on the other
>side. Wouldn't it be better if the starter engaged all the way across the
>ring gear? Has anyone come up with a cure for this?

When I heard this I thought they meant just to flip it about a vertical
axis, that way you're actually changing the side (left to right) that the
teeth are on, and I understood it would help because the engine normally
stops in the same (or one of a couple at least) spot when you shut it off,
so by moving it you'll change which teeth you're actually starting with
.... If this doesn't make sense email me I can try and explian it better...

>Two more questions - What is the main difference between an NP203 and an
>NP205 and which one is better for which applications(rock crawling, sand,
>standard vs. auto etc.)?

One of these ( I can never remember which) is a full time system, the other
is a part time system. The full time will have a differential in it so
that you don't have driveline wind up, though you can lock this out just
like the other. Changing between them will require a different tranny
adapter (so I've been told) and different length driveshafts. To avoid all
this, I just put a kit in my full time case to make it a part time.

Hope that helps ...

Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 13:34:32 -0500
From: "Dennis Witthuhn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Will '85/'86 F100 parts fit '71 F100?

first are they both 9 inch rears? if so you have 2 different ones a 28spline
and a 31 next as for the disc brakes they won't work off the 85 what
you need is to get the setup from a 73-79 and use you kingpins or get new
ones for your yr model truck hope this helps
- -----Original Message-----
From: bradyiii
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, October 09, 1998 1:03 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Will '85/'86 F100 parts fit '71 F100?

Here is one for anyone who has information or knowledge of the
adaptability of later model trucks to my '71. A friend of mine is
giving me what he believes to be an '85/'86 F100(no title). I want
to widen my rear wheel base without buying a set of new wheels with
specified offset. I want to put that rear houseing with my pumpkin.
Does anyone see any reason why this will not work? I know it sounds
like alot of work when simply ordering a set of wheels with specified
offset would be alot easier(I love the black wheels on the Nascar
edition ford truck.) But cost is the major issue. The swap would be
free for the most part.
Second the truck is equipped with disk brakes and a sway bar. I want
them both. How easy would it be to swap the disk brakes to my truck?
What about the sway bar? Any custom mods required to either? Thank
and I look forward to hearing from you.

Jim Brady
'71 F100
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 14:39:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: FTE 61-79 - off topic/timing advice/troubleshooting

I have been using my 71 f250 to drive my friend around while we try to
figure out what's wrong with his 95 jeep wrangler (some on topic subject
matter ;)) I figure i should go to the source of all gearhead
knowledge--this list!!
it seems to have a possible timing problem- totally lacks power over
2500-300 rpm in all gears. i have narrowed it to this beacuse i
have already replaced cap, rotor, wires plugs and
coil (all were on the way out), and cleaned the throttle body several
times with carb cleaner and put fuel injector cleaner in and checked the
fule filter

so my question is how do you check timing on a fuel injected engine?
or do you have any other suggestions as for what to look for?

thanks again, oh knowledgable ones!!

Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 13:47:33 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switches

Hi

My 1974 F350 has been converted to a welding truck before I bought it.

On the right side of the heater/AC panel on the dash is a switch for

main or aux fuel tanks. This is a factory item not a add-on. Does anyone

know what and where I should look on the truck to see if I have all the

item needed to use this switch, or how it worked.

The Aux tank has been removed but I have one to go back on.

There is a manuel valve under the driver side seat to switch tanks

but would like to use the switch on the dash.

TIA

Larry

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 13:53:12 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 manifold - since the flames have started already

>I haven't looked inside an FE in a long time but some engines I've seen had
>steel valley pans separate from the intake gaskets. The FE routed oil to
the
>lifter gallery and back down into the crank but most engines route oil from
>the pump, through the crank and then up to the lifter gallery.

So does this mean the following part is applicable to "normal" engines and
not the FE ?

> Cold oil comes
>from the pan, picks up heat from the crank which is the engine's largest and
>highest capacity heat sink and then through the rods and lifter gallerys
where
>it picks up more heat. By the time it splashes against the bottom of the
>manifold it is near it's highest temp in the oil cycle and drains back
into the
>pan to be cooled by the thin sheet metal of the pan which is exposed to
>outside air etc..
>
- ----end of part in question -----

>The oil at that point is much hotter than the coolant in the manifold and
>directly splashes against the runner bottoms so there is a direct transfer
of
>heat into the runners in addition to any other heat sources in the area.
The
>exhaust crossover is relatively small and is routed to the plenum to
create the
>"hot spot" directly under the carb so isn't as serious a heat source but
does
>add to the BTU's which must be carried away by the coolant and air flowing
>over the manifold.
>
I guess I'm not following how the oil will splash up to the bottom of the
runners, if there's a valley pan won't that take up most of the splash that
would occur from the lifters ? Also splash isn't exactly coating with the
same temperature, so I would think it would be minimal compared with the
exhaust port heat ... Mind you I still use both of them (no sense in
making extra work taking the stupid manifold off again, just to see)....

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