61-79-list-digest Tuesday, September 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 467



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake lines.
FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100
FTE 61-79 - '67 Ford Camper Special Pickup
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake lines.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100
FTE 61-79 - Server down
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100
FTE 61-79 - JC Whitney Stuff????
FTE 61-79 - cab mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100
FTE 61-79 - Steering Gearbox
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering Gearbox
FTE 61-79 - 73 F250....convert to 4 bbl..?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New advertiser on web site
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

=======================================================================

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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 07:38:06 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake lines.

Norm wrote:
My '65 just underwent major transplant surgery. There is now a
Ford-remanufactured '76 T-bird 460 under the hood.

Being a single-reservoir master cylinder, this problem concerns me.


I am sure it does. My rhetorical question would be, if you have gone to the
trouble and expense to do the aforementioned transplant, why are you still
running a single reservoir system? If you are, I assume you are still
running drums in the front. Why don't you just go ahead and do the disc
transplant, upping to a dual system and possibly power brakes also. If you
are considering replacing all the lines, you have the freedom to make them
for any setup you wish.
As far as the power and frame question - I do not have personal
experience with that issue in these trucks, but I know in other arenas, it
can be an issue of slappng a much more powerful motor in that frame twist
becomes an problem. The entire frame could torqe, the more power
increase,the worse the problem. My suspicion would be that on a truck of
this age, the rivets for many of the frame junctures that carry stress in
the past could be getting a bit loose, and with the increase in torque, take
advantage of that looseness to translate into serious movement. I say that
because I found some loose rivets in my '69 with 170K, and you have at least
more age, if not miles, on your frame. I doubt that you are twisting enough
to "snap" lines, but possible enough to stress them at some points where
rust happens to have diminished the wall thickness.
If the frame is twisting, reinforcement and bracing is the answer. The
real benefit of traction bars are to limit the amount the differential can
twist around the axis of the axle under acceleration, not to limit movement
fore and aft, or around the axis of the driveshaft.

Jim E.




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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 07:43:05 -0600
From: Martin Carter
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

Help! I am just learning which end of a wrench is which, so please type
slow. :-) I am the proud new owner of a '74 Super Cab with a 360. My
first order of business is to replace hoses, belts, etc. (Even I can
recognize when they are bad.) Now it's time for a tune-up, but my
trusty shop manual refers me to the emissions sticker for the idle rpm,
timing, etc. Someone painted over the sticker, so I am just tuning by
ear. Any suggestions on what I should set? Any other quirks or things
to watch out for would also be helpful.
Thanks!
Marty

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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:10:24 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '67 Ford Camper Special Pickup

>On the aforementioned truck, is the raised lettering and circle around
>the lettering painted the same color as the upper part of the truck or
>the lower accent color? The lettering I refer to is on the tailgate,
>and the colors of the truck are blue and lower part of truck cab and bed
>white. This is for my neighbor. Thanks for any help you can provide...
>
The upper part. The lower accent color only goes on the bottom "bar" on
the tailgate, all the rest is the upper color.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:15:13 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake lines.

At 07:38 AM 9/29/98 , you wrote:
>
>Norm wrote:
>My '65 just underwent major transplant surgery. There is now a
>Ford-remanufactured '76 T-bird 460 under the hood.
>
>Being a single-reservoir master cylinder, this problem concerns me.
>
>
>I am sure it does. My rhetorical question would be, if you have gone to the
>trouble and expense to do the aforementioned transplant, why are you still
>running a single reservoir system? If you are, I assume you are still
>running drums in the front. Why don't you just go ahead and do the disc
>transplant, upping to a dual system and possibly power brakes also. If you
>are considering replacing all the lines, you have the freedom to make them
>for any setup you wish.


This is a very good idea, but I was also wondering if you had a lift on
your truck ? Some kid came in to the parts store I used to work at and was
looking for a longer hose for his truck, he'd put a 2" lift on it and
thought his brake hose was too tight. We all kind of laughed at him (not
out loud of course)(there's usually plenty of slack unless you've moved the
brake lines too), but the manager spent an hour or so looking through all
the hoses and finding one that would bolt to the replacement hose, the
result? A 6" extension for his hose, it wasn't tight at all any more, so
he didn't have to worry about hitting bumps and breaking the line.

As a side note this summer alone I've replaced or helped replace 3 hoses,
and one more went out that was replaced at a shop. My sister says its not
very fun to go over a curb and through a red light. *shrug* some people
have no sense of adventure ;)


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:20:37 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

At 08:43 AM 9/29/98 , you wrote:
>Help! I am just learning which end of a wrench is which, so please type
>slow. :-) I am the proud new owner of a '74 Super Cab with a 360. My
>first order of business is to replace hoses, belts, etc. (Even I can
>recognize when they are bad.) Now it's time for a tune-up, but my
>trusty shop manual refers me to the emissions sticker for the idle rpm,
>timing, etc. Someone painted over the sticker, so I am just tuning by
>ear. Any suggestions on what I should set? Any other quirks or things
>to watch out for would also be helpful.
>Thanks!
>Marty
Seems like my 74 360 says its supposed to be at 6degrees
(BeforeTopDeadCenter). But I usually run it at 8 or so. I still have the
points by the way, but I'm pretty sure its the same for electronic that
year. The plug gap I think is supposed to be about 35, and the choke two
notches rich, but I always do the choke manually anyway.

I tuned by ear once when I did a head gasket, just to be sure that it would
run, seems like I was pretty close. I might be off a little on my numbers,
they're off the top of my head, but they'll get the truck running pretty
much like stock.

The main thing about those is with power steering you can get quite a bit
of play when the control valve goes out. And they're not known for bein
the best system in the world.

I also yanked the 2V and put on a 4V, the mileage went down, but the
useable power came up in the midrange.

Have fun, and welcome to the group.
Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:22:00 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

In a message dated 9/29/98 8:26:12 AM EST, wish iastate.edu writes:


of play when the control valve goes out. >>


Would this cause about half a turn of play in the steering wheel? I just
finished putting the new axle in my truck last night, and took him on his
maiden voyage. I felt like I was driving a truck full of Jell-o. If this is
a possibility, what can I do to remedy the situation? I know that the last
owner probably ran the system dry an several occasions, because it had a leak
I couldn't place. Found the factory clamp on the hose for the cooler had worn
out. So shes good and tight now, but the thing doesn't drive straight, and
the pump has a permanent whine.

Aside from drivin wobbly, she ran great, and that 460 has more power than I
know what to do with. Having drivin it, I have been able to name it.
Gentlemen, and Ladies, (I know your out there) I give you Tweety, Choosen do
to that birds irregualr flight path. How many F-350's w/ 460's are there in
this world named Tweety? I can't imagine too many.

Darrell Duggan aka JUMPINFORD AOL.com
74 F-350 RangerXLT Super Camper Special "Tweety"
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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:33:23 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Server down

My server was down this morning and I only have 4 posts so I suspect some
may have been lost. I got your directions, Rick but if anyone else attempted
to contact me either through the list or directly, resend now and I should be
able to deal with it :-)

Darn, I was really bored today too :-(

BTW, I'm getting ready to install the water heater in the barn bathroom and
will be pouring the pad for the LP tanks Friday or maybe in the evening this
week yet and am considering what kind of furnace I want to put out there.
Anyone have any suggestions on a brand or type of fully shrouded, LP gas,
truss mount furnace that works well? Has to have outside air intake and no
exposed flames etc. so I can paint in the winter etc..

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:36:16 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

At 09:22 AM 9/29/98 , you wrote:
>In a message dated 9/29/98 8:26:12 AM EST, wish iastate.edu writes:
>
>
> of play when the control valve goes out. >>
>
>
>Would this cause about half a turn of play in the steering wheel? I just
>finished putting the new axle in my truck last night, and took him on his
>maiden voyage. I felt like I was driving a truck full of Jell-o. If this is
>a possibility, what can I do to remedy the situation? I know that the last
>owner probably ran the system dry an several occasions, because it had a leak
>I couldn't place. Found the factory clamp on the hose for the cooler had
worn
>out. So shes good and tight now, but the thing doesn't drive straight, and
>the pump has a permanent whine.
>

Well it can cause a considerable amount of play, a couple inches to either
side, not exactly a half a turn, but it may seems like it if you're not
used to it. Another point to check will be the steering box itself, if you
didn't have any power and drove it you'd be putting a heck of a load on
that. We ended up replacing just about everything on it a few years ago,
now it all needs rebuilt again, so I'm lookin into the conversion to the
later style p/s.

Another thing that contributes to the wander is wide tires, I've got 10.5's
on mine and it still wanders a bit.


>Aside from drivin wobbly, she ran great, and that 460 has more power than I
>know what to do with. Having drivin it, I have been able to name it.
>Gentlemen, and Ladies, (I know your out there) I give you Tweety, Choosen do
>to that birds irregualr flight path. How many F-350's w/ 460's are there in
>this world named Tweety? I can't imagine too many.
>
That's great :) Glad you're happy with the power. Hope you enjoy it for
lottsa years to come :)


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:36:53 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - JC Whitney Stuff????

Saw where someone is looking at some JCW sheet metal parts. A few years ago, I
bought two front fenders and several rust repair panels, they all seemed to
work OK. I was really surprised at the relatively good quality of the fenders,
they were at least the same gage metal as stock, and they bolted right up....

In other words, they are probably worth a try....

On the other hand, I wouldn't buy any door mouldings or similar parts from
them anymore. I had a set that cracked and fell apart in about one year.....

Good Luck!

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 12:57:21 -0600
From: Jamey Moss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts

I have some questions about cab mounts on my '67 F100, and I can't find the
answers in my shop manuals. I know a few people here have experience removing
the cab (for cab swaps or frame-off restorations), and I hope you can
straighten me out.

Anyway, I was looking at my cab mounts on my '67, and I noticed that there are
no nuts on the bottom of any of my cab mount bolts. I then looked at the cab
mounts on the rusted out '72, and the front mounts had nuts on them, but the
rear mounts did not. Then I looked at John Strauss' '68, and his cab mounts
had nuts on the front mounts and not on the rear ones.

My first question is whether or not the rear cab mounts are supposed to have
nuts on them. I'm going to have to replace the bolts on the front anyway (I
tried putting nuts on them and the old threads stripped out), so I might as
well do them all at the same time. The rubber looks okay on the cab mounts,
so I'm only replacing the bolts.

For the second question, does anyone have a good idea on how to remove the
bolts on the front cab mounts? Mine are fairly well stuck in there (they
won't easily push up), and the lower lip of the frame is in the way to get a
floor jack on it. I've tried wedging a 2x4 in there and using a floor jack to
push the bolt up, but there's not enough room to get a square angle on the
bolt. I'm thinking of getting some strong iron stock in a square "C" shape (a
cut-up piece of frame would be good if I had one) to get around the lip of the
frame, and using a floor jack to push the bolt up. Any better ideas, tips, or
things to look out for?


Thanks for your help,

Jamey Moss
ra4001 email.sps.mot.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.prismnet.com/~jamey/f100/
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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:57:15 -0700
From: "Andrew W. Ford - Speaking For Myself"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/29/98 8:26:12 AM EST, wish iastate.edu writes:
>
>
> of play when the control valve goes out. >>
>
> Would this cause about half a turn of play in the steering wheel? I just
> finished putting the new axle in my truck last night, and took him on his
> maiden voyage. I felt like I was driving a truck full of Jell-o. If this is
> a possibility, what can I do to remedy the situation? I know that the last
> owner probably ran the system dry an several occasions, because it had a leak
> I couldn't place. Found the factory clamp on the hose for the cooler had worn
> out. So shes good and tight now, but the thing doesn't drive straight, and
> the pump has a permanent whine.
>

Darrell,

I'm not too familiar with 74 power steering, but it has been my experience that
when power steering fails, you get a full work-out with each turn!

As for the play, it sounds awfully reminiscent of a 70' Custom I had many moons
ago
which need ball joints REAL bad.

I'd suggest starting the engine and having someone move the wheel back and forth
through
the "play" zone. Then watch the steering shaft, gearbox, tierods, etc to see
where the
movement stops. The problem would then be between the last moving and first
non-moving
section.



Good Luck,

78 F150 Ranger 4x4 Supercab / 351M, C6

- --
Andrew Ford (602)581-4499
forda agcs.com Si vis pacem, parabellum.
Above is *my* opinion, for theirs see below...
AG Communication Systems - Expand the power of your network.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.agcs.com



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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 14:43:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

> I'd suggest starting the engine and having someone move the wheel back and forth
> through
> the "play" zone. Then watch the steering shaft, gearbox, tierods, etc to see
> where the
> movement stops. The problem would then be between the last moving and first
> non-moving
> section.

If the play is in the steering linkage, you also might be able to locate
it by grabbing individual parts and shaking them. The drag link on
my 78 was shot, and it was quite obvious when I crawled under the vehicle
and grabbed it. CLANK CLANK.

Good luck.

- --sean
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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 14:23:44 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering Gearbox

The power steering in my 74 f350 is leaking bad. I have removed the belt

to the pump. It too walks all over the road.

First question. Is there an overhaul kit for the gear box?

Second. Will a manuel gearbox from a f250 of same year bolt into
the f350 without any mod's?

TIA


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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 14:53:23 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering Gearbox

>First question. Is there an overhaul kit for the gear box?
>
Don't know, but through a heavy machine parts dealer we found a place in
Arizona that you can send your box (or one just like) it to them and
they'll rebuild it for you.


>Second. Will a manuel gearbox from a f250 of same year bolt into
> the f350 without any mod's?
>
I tried going to manual steering for a while, seemed okay to me, but Dad
hated trying to park it. If you have 4wd, it can be a pain to try and
steer. I can't imagine a heavy duty truck without power, I mean I can, but
not for a daily driver. Guess you wouldn't need to work out too much other
than drivin :)


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 16:55:12 -0700
From: "Tom Holbrook"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 73 F250....convert to 4 bbl..?

I am in the midst of redoing my top end...valve job..timing gears...clean
and paint..

My friend approached and thought I might look into changing the 2bbl to a
4bbl system..

Has anyone done this?.....how and what did you do?.... What about having
to change heads to the 4bbl type engine as well?

Any thoughts?..

Tom
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 19:55:11 -0500
From: "Oscar Johnson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

Marty,

I have a 71 F250 with a 360 in it. Tune-up specifications from my
owner's manual are as follows:

engine idle speed
standard transmission 650
automatic transmission 550 (with headlights on and xmssn in drive)

cylinder firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

spark plug (autolite) BF-32
gap .032-.036

dist point gap .021
F-250/350 .017

ignition timing - degrees BTC (1) 6 degrees
(1) If the individual requirements of the vehicle and/or use of sub-
standard fuels dictate, the initial timing may have to be retarded from the
"Normal" setting to eliminate detonation. If retarding is necessary, it
should be done progressivley and not to exceed 2 degrees BTC.

The Chilton Repair and Tune-up guide says that your truck, 1974 360
needs BRF-42B plugs, point dwell is 24-30, point gap is .017, ignition
timing for manual xmssn is 6B(TC), automatic 3B(TC), intake valve opens at
13B(TC), and fuel pump pressure 4-6 PSI. Plug gap, and idle speed are to be
obtained from underhood specifications sticker. There is also a note that if
you have underhood sticker #659, then ignition timing for automatic is
6B(TC).

Hope this helps.

Regards,
O.T. Johnson


- -----Original Message-----
From: Martin Carter
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 7:46 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100


>Help! I am just learning which end of a wrench is which, so please type
>slow. :-) I am the proud new owner of a '74 Super Cab with a 360. My
>first order of business is to replace hoses, belts, etc. (Even I can
>recognize when they are bad.) Now it's time for a tune-up, but my
>trusty shop manual refers me to the emissions sticker for the idle rpm,
>timing, etc. Someone painted over the sticker, so I am just tuning by
>ear. Any suggestions on what I should set? Any other quirks or things
>to watch out for would also be helpful.
>Thanks!
>Marty
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:20:41 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New advertiser on web site

We have a new advertiser on our web site. Since the beginning,
our practice with web site advertisers has been to make a brief
announcement for 2 days (this is day 2 of 2). Please show your
appreciation to them for helping to support the web site and the
lists by checking out their site:

Add more secure, accessible cargo space to your SUV in minutes
with the XTENDER Receiver Hitch Mounted Pivoting Cargo Carrier.
The XTENDER adds a full 11 cubic feet of cargo space and its
patented telescopic/pivoting frame allows for normal rear door
operation and easy access to your vehicle's existing cargo area.
For more information on this exciting new SUV accessory contact
Dotronix Inc. toll free at 1-800-720-7218 or visit our web site
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://discover-net.net/~xtender.

We would like to you to let them know you heard about them via
the Ford Truck Enthusiasts group.

Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program...

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 19:55:11 -0500
From: "Oscar Johnson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tune-up for '74 F100

Marty,

I have a 71 F250 with a 360 in it. Tune-up specifications from my
owner's manual are as follows:

engine idle speed
standard transmission 650
automatic transmission 550 (with headlights on and xmssn in drive)

cylinder firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

spark plug (autolite) BF-32
gap .032-.036

dist point gap .021
F-250/350 .017

ignition timing - degrees BTC (1) 6 degrees
(1) If the individual requirements of the vehicle and/or use of sub-
standard fuels dictate, the initial timing may have to be retarded from the
"Normal" setting to eliminate detonation. If retarding is necessary, it
should be done progressivley and not to exceed 2 degrees BTC.

The Chilton Repair and Tune-up guide says that your truck, 1974 360
needs BRF-42B plugs, point dwell is 24-30, point gap is .017, ignition
timing for manual xmssn is 6B(TC), automatic 3B(TC), intake valve opens at
13B(TC), and fuel pump pressure 4-6 PSI. Plug gap, and idle speed are to be
obtained from underhood specifications sticker. There is also a note that if
you have underhood sticker #659, then ignition timing for automatic is
6B(TC).

Hope this helps.

Regards,
O.T. Johnson


- -----Original Message-----
From: Martin Carter
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 7:46 AM....


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