61-79-list-digest Friday, September 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 461



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - rims/trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - big mama clutch spring, etc./Nj stability test
Re: FTE 61-79 - rims/trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - More education needed
FTE 61-79 - Platinum plugs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Gear Lube
FTE 61-79 - Gear Lube
FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
RE: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Translation?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
FTE 61-79 - one cylinder
FTE 61-79 - crash and bash
FTE 61-79 - Quarter panels for 79 Ford Bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 Swap
FTE 61-79 - New member with new problem....'73 F250
Re: FTE 61-79 - New member with new problem....'73 F250
Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
FTE 61-79 - 67-72 TORQUE QUIZ
FTE 61-79 - 66' Floormat
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 Swap
FTE 61-79 - Smoky 302
FTE 61-79 - Can I replace a regular cab with an extended cab?
FTE 61-79 - RE: Lubricants
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 Swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - rims/trucks

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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 06:36:59 -0400
From: "Debbie Paypompee"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rims/trucks

I want to change the rim size on a f250 3/4 ton from 16.5 to 16, these rims
are 8 bolt. Does anyone know if this is possible? Do the 8 stud rims come in
different sizes?
my name JJ



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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:53:31 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - big mama clutch spring, etc./Nj stability test

Dave Resch wrote:

>
> The factory refers to that part as "clutch pedal assist spring." I would
> continue to use the original factory spring to maintain correct
> pedal/linkage operation, but ditch the extra spring.

Thanks, I did. ;-)

> BTW: How's the M-block engine coming along? Got that new cam in yet?

I sent it back. I finally figured I needed to get 32 valve
springs/retainers to get the 16 retainers (8 and 8) I needed. Otherwise,
I would have to special order (3-4 weeks). I ordered the valve
springs/retainers and ended up getting one set of chevy valve springs
instead. I gave up at that point and sent the whole thing back. I
installed the cam from my F-250 parts truck and it runs great. I picked
up a 400 crank/rods/pistons with crank allready cut 10 under. I am going
400, hopefully over the winter. I will be back asking cam thoughts
then. I would like to keep stock valve springs, but not many cams come
under .490. If ya'll remember, I was under the gun to get through NJ
stability test to get the grandfather clause for the lift I needed for
44 inch tires. I took it yesterday and passed.

My 78 Bronc weighed in at 6600 lbs. This is with man trans, no air,
dana 60's front and rear and 800 lbs of tires/wheels (no back seat).
They raise truck and weigh unraised side, You need 62.4% of the weight
of truck (or less) on the unraised side. They also factor in level side
to side weight, so I really only had 62%. I came in at 61.7%, so I just
passed.


My weights were as followed

Total-6600.
Left-3330
Right-3270
Left whem raised-4070.

If anyone cares, here are some other dimensions they took (in inches).


Front bumper-34
Rear bumper-34.25
Front track (measured to center of each tire, tires 18 inches wide)-73
Rear track-71
Lower edge of door to ground-37
susp lift-5.75
body lift 3.25

OX
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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 05:56:00 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rims/trucks

You may have a problem on the front with the disc calipers hitting the rim.
Mine barely clear by less than a 1/4". I would check the clearance between your
calipers to rim before you buy the rims.


Thanks
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
74 Stroppe Bronco
67 GT500

Debbie Paypompee wrote:

> I want to change the rim size on a f250 3/4 ton from 16.5 to 16, these rims
> are 8 bolt. Does anyone know if this is possible? Do the 8 stud rims come in
> different sizes?
> my name JJ
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:16:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More education needed

>Tony Marino [tony pscico.com] wrote:
>FE Spark plugs point both directions (front and back coming out of block)
>Modifies all point the same direction.

I noticed this trend as well, but do not know how full proof it is...

>original poster wrote:
>how can I tell what engine is in there other than the obvious
>look at the specs on the valve cover...

Last night while I was wishing my 352 was back in one piece, I noticed on the driver's side, front of the
block about 1 - 3 " below the cylinder head was a raised "352".

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:38:16 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Platinum plugs

Bill,

True, but the vehicle in question was a 79 351M that should have all of the
above unless someone has reverse engineered it.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, only one dent left from the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:03:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Gear Lube

Date sent: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 00:42:02 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gear Lube

> Does anybody know whats the difference between Limited Slip and
> standard Gear Lube ? I think there are additives for the clutches
> in the L/S lube .Is that correct? Is that the only difference?

AFAIK, the oil is the same but they put an additive in it to make it more
slippery so they don't chatter on corners. I bought the additive from the
dealer when I first rebuilt mine and lost most of the effectiveness so I took it
back out and ran regular lube in it.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:22:35 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gear Lube

Saw where someone wants to know about limited slip gear lube. What I found out
is that you are supposed to add a small bottle (sorry, don't know the size) of
the limited slip lube in first, then fill the case the rest of the way with
regular 80-90 wt gear oil.

Apparently, the Ford LS lubricant is really good, and you can still buy the
little bottles from the Ford dealer. Don't get it on your clothes, though, the
smell lasts forever!

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:09:07 -0400
From: pdesanto Cinergy.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices

> Pat Brown wrote:
> I'd like to hear everyone's opinion on assembly lubes.
>
>
> I use cam-lube/assembly lube on all cam/rod/main bearings, also on all
> other
> sliding surfaces except pistons. For pistons I have used the same oil I
> plan
> to run in the engine.
>
> As a note on dipping a piston: Instead of pouring up a bucket of oil,
> I
> use a container a little bigger than the piston. For instance on one of
> those D***** engines, a standard coffee can is just the right size.
> Jim
>
>
>
Hello all,
Just so we won't overwhelm the poor guy with too much technical piston
ring info,( this IS his first go around) maybe we should make sure to tell
him "which" rings we're talking about; AND what kind of material they are
made of. Anyone following this thread has got to be scratching their heads
by now, with all the different opinions displayed. ( Moly, Chrome Moly,
Chrome, Cast, Dry assem??, STP, No STP, 2 cycle oil, etc.)
> First, most manufacturers are using a Moly filled top compression ring
> and have been for over 30 years. Moly or plasma sprayed Moly has better
> heat tolerance and is more scuff resistant than a standard Cast ring. The
> Moly is sprayed into a groove in a regular ductile iron compression ring.
> Also the pourus nature of the material aids in lubrication to the ring and
> cyl.wall. And they tend to seat almost immediately in a well prepped
> cylinder. Usually, when you buy a "Moly" ring set, only the top
> compression ring has the Moly insert. The second ring is still a standard
> Cast ring.
> The use of a Chrome compression ring is usually saved for engines that
> will live in a dirty environment or will get a lot of abuse. They tend to
> speed up cylinder wall wear, but hold up well to abrasion.
> A lot of guys that race Chevys like these. ( is "race Chevys" an
> oxy-moron?)
> Nobody touched on all the different oil control ring options. Probably a
> good thing....considering.
>
> Bottom line, on a standard rebuild, go with Moly rings; or to save a very
> few bucks go with Cast.
> Everybody seems to have their favorite recipe for an assembly lube. One
> we have used for years without any problems is 1 qt. 30w oil and a small
> can of STP mixed in a coffee can. Keep a small plastic bristled brush in
> the can to brush the stuff on where you want it, and keep it sealed. It'll
> last a long time that way.It's just thick and sticky enough that it will
> stay on till you get it fired. Even if it sits for a while.( like a lot of
> projects do ) Of course you prelube too, before starting.
> A cheap easy tool for cleaning grooves is just a broken ring turned
> around and pushed through the groove to remove carbon.(don't cut your
> fingers) The tool to install the new rings is so cheap, you'd be crazy not
> to have one in your tool box. One broken ring will buy a couple of them.
> I too had never heard of "Dry Assembly", but a local race engine builder
> always uses ATF on the cyl walls, because HE says it burns off quick to
> seat the rings. ( I never tried it though) He runs bowties, so this might
> not work on a real engine.
> And one last thing...I read in a "Sealed- Power" bulletin a while back,
> that they had done some research on "end-gap spacing". It turns out that
> they DO move around in service. But I'd still put them in "spaced" around
> the piston. ( I can't find the darn thing now )
> Phil............flame away
>
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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:55:26 -0700
From: "Abajo, Ed"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Translation?

AltaVista Translations =
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://babelfish.altavista.com/cgi-bin/translate?
came up with the following translation:

Hello, I am called Eric LEROY, I live in BRUSSELS (Belgium) and I roll
with Ford F-150 (4.9 liters EFI) model 1988. It is an especially
imported vehicule of occasion of the USA. There are almost no cars like
that in Europe, and it is not easy to have spare parts. There exists at
the dealers FORD U.S.A. a book with all the spare parts, a drawing and
the serial number to control them. Can you say to me if that exists on
CD ROM?=20
Thank you beaucoups=20

Ed Abajo
RIS Network Services
*Emaileabajo tacobell.com


> ----------
> From: Ken Payne[SMTP:kpayne ford-trucks.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 7:36 PM
> To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com; 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
> 80-96-list ford-trucks.com; 97up-list ford-trucks.com;
> small-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Translation?
>=20
> Can someone translate this?
>=20
> Ken Payne
> CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
>=20
> >
> >Bonjour,
> >Je m'appelle Eric LEROY, j'habite =E0 BRUXELLES (Belgium) et je =
roule
> avec un
> >Ford F-150 (4.9 liters EFI) model 1988.
> >C'est un vehicule d'occasion sp=E9cialement import=E9 des USA. Il =
n'y a
> presque
> >pas de voitures comme =E7a en Europe,
> >et il n'est pas facile d'avoir des pi=E8ces de rechanges.
> >Il existe chez les dealers FORD U.S.A. un livre avec toutes les
> pi=E8ces de
> >rechange, un dessin et le serial number pour les commander.
> >Pouvez vous me dire si cela existe sur CD ROM ?
> >
> >Merci beaucoups
> >
> >
> =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>=20
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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 12:22:20 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices

From: pdesanto Cinergy.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
Date sent: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:09:07 -0400

> Just so we won't overwhelm the poor guy with too much technical piston
> ring info,( this IS his first go around) maybe we should make sure to tell
> him "which" rings we're talking about; AND what kind of material they are
> made of. Anyone following this thread has got to be scratching their heads
> by now

Phil, I thoroughly enjoyed your post and totally agree with everything you
say about the rings. Much of what you said comes right out of the text book
we used in the rebuilding class I took with one exception.........moly rings
typically take longer to seat than cast rings even in a well prepped cylinder
but if properly prepped will give much better service life and tolerate more
power/heat etc.. If the cylinder isn't properly prepped then you are MUCH
better off using cast rings from what I've been led to understand but I'm no
expert, just parroting the book which is why I kept stressing the 35 degrees
and 600 grit hone job if you use moly rings.

One other caution, if you use a bristle brush to brush on the oil, watch for
the brush shedding bristles.......these can damage bearings and other parts.
At the very least it makes for a less than perfect assy job :-)

The broken ring scraper was excellent (also text book :-)) and will be
plentifull after removing all the rings :-)

Rings will move around in service but the odds of them all lining up at the
same time and staying lined up are about the same as life being formed from
dust via the big bang theory so not a concern and yes they should be offset
roughly the portion of a circle divided by the number of rings in assy., 3
rings, 120 degrees apart etc.. We did a little research (books) in the class
concerning the effect of excessive ring gap and the conclusion was that
insufficient gap is MUCH worse than excessive gap as long as you don't get
carried away with it. IOW, if you accidentally take off too much with your
file on one ring it will probably not affect the life or performance of the
engine so long as you don't put all the mistakes on one piston and you learn
from your mistakes. Take your time here and be careful, it pays big
dividends. If you must be inaccurate opt for wider rather than narrower but
try to get it right on if you can. Remember the rings must be square with the
bore to be accurate as was already mentioned somewhere :-) If you stop to
analyze what is really going on there you have a cold ring gap of, say 0.022"
in a 4" bore and a piston clearance (cold) of about 0.003" both of which
close up significantly once warmed up so even if you goof up and get the
gap 0.030" or even a little more, how much room is there really for anything
to get out, especially once it warms up? Not very much right? BUT......if
you get them too tight and they bind and have no place to go then they will
break and score the cylinder walls and perhaps destroy a perfectly good
block and sacrifice all the machining money you put into it.

Lastly the oil you use on the piston assy/rings should be something that
doesn't cause carbon build up so the 2 cycle idea was a good one or low ash
motor oil typical of "Turbo" formula oils. I'm not sure what STP does when
burned but I suspect this would not be especially good to put on the rings.
Anyone have any professional data on this? I don't believe I would use ATF
since it breaks down at fairly low temps and might be a carbon problem,
don't know though for sure? I also has other, anti-foaming, chemicals in it
which may do undetermined things to the cylinder walls etc. and again I'm
not sure, just hypothesizing. I guess what I'm saying is that we know 2 cycle
oil is made to be burned and low ash oil is designed to treat turbo charger
bearings kindly so will, without a doubt, be more likely to go through the
combustion chamber with the least carbon buildup. What ever you put on
the pistons will only be there for a few seconds after startup so is not much
of a concern as to lub qualities, it just needs to work for a few seconds.

If you anticipate a long shelf storage for a new engine you may want to
sacrifice some of these considerations in the interest of preventing rust but
that oil film will protect things for a long time if not molested by water or
solvents etc..

I just pulled a 460 out of the back yard and broke it down after several years
with no pan on it and under a tarp which kept getting blown off in the rain
etc. and the crank journals still looked like new but the pistons were rusted in
so badly I had to hammer them out with a 4# sledge and drift and one won't
even come out so the oil on the crank protected it for several years because
it was covered by the bearings but the assy was still exposed to the elements
where the cylinders were filled with water periodically so rusted solid.

Let us know Phil if any of this is questionable based on your experience :-)


A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:09:43 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - one cylinder

Jim is right about re-ringing one cylinder versus all 8 (or 6). I assumed
chrome rings, not cast iron.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, only one dent left from the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:13:05 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - crash and bash

Pat,
Sorry to hear about your truck. I hope you come out as good as I did. By
doing the work myself I actually was able to do some upgrades with the
insurance money. Good luck.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, only one dent left from the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 14:22:17 -0400
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Quarter panels for 79 Ford Bronco

Hi Guys!

I'm not having much luck locating Left and Right Rear Full Quarter Panels
for my 79 Bronco. I have only been able to find some small patch panels.

Anyone know where I might be able to get some? I would prefer new ones.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Mr. Paul R. Boudreault

351M, Custom rebuilt balanced & blueprinted, 4 barrel, 4 speed manual

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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 12:53:46 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices

Well considering the odds on the alternative explanation for life on earth
I guess we would all be better off with gapless rings...

- ----------
> From: Gary, 78 BBB
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 5:22 AM
>
>
> Rings will move around in service but the odds of them all lining up at
the
> same time and staying lined up are about the same as life being formed
from
> dust via the big bang theory so not a concern and yes they should be
offset
> roughly the portion of a circle divided by the number of rings in assy.,
3
> rings, 120 degrees apart etc..
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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 16:11:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices

From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices
Date sent: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 12:53:46 -0700

> Well considering the odds on the alternative explanation for life on earth
> I guess we would all be better off with gapless rings...

Touche! I guess I shouldn't assume we all believe in a supreme being who
doesn't need to do things by chance so how about........"as much chance as
a million bb's all falling on a flat floor and forming a single line of their own
accord......." :-)


A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 15:05:16 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices

As long as we're on the subject of rings, has anyone seen or used gapless
rings? They seem to be all the rage in top fuel this year.

- ----------

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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 18:40:57 -0400
From: Rick and Deborah Kelso
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 Swap

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 10:12:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bizzare turn of events.y

Quick question for you guys- I noticed most of you saying that if I
want to put a 460 in a 78 truck that use to have a 351m in it, I
needed special motor mounts from L&L for about a hundred bucks- Are
the stancions different on this truck you are talking about (the
'74CS) or could I just go to the local autoparts and ask for the
mounts from a '74 460 and drop them in my '78 to save a couple bucks?

Thanks

Tony
tony pscico.com
www.pscico.com/~tony

All you need is two engine mounts for a 460 truck and the 2 frame stands that are
still available from Ford.

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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 16:22:49 -0700
From: "Tom Holbrook"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New member with new problem....'73 F250



Hi all!!..

What a great group...to share info..!!

I have a 1973 F250 Camper special and the rocker shaft broke. It actually
broke the shaft right at the first shaft support, between cyl 1 & 2.

My question.....I haven't been able to satisfy myself why this happened. I
deduce: timing jump...or valve breakage, or?...

I have pulled the intake manifold and plan this weekend to pull the
heads..so, if anyone had a similar experience or knowledge let me know.

Thanks,

Tom
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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 17:05:44 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New member with new problem....'73 F250

Tom Holbrook wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi all!!..
>
> What a great group...to share info..!!
>
> I have a 1973 F250 Camper special and the rocker shaft broke. It actually
> broke the shaft right at the first shaft support, between cyl 1 & 2.
>
> My question.....I haven't been able to satisfy myself why this happened. I
> deduce: timing jump...or valve breakage, or?...

The valve train in the old FE motors is the weak link in this engine
design. The shaft is a thin wall design and it is not uncommon to see a
broken rocker shaft. Also the rocker arms themselves are prone to
breakage.

Regards

John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
74 Stroppe Bronco
67 GT500
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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 17:57:05 -0700
From: Steve & Rockette Leitch
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Piston Rings.....choices, choices, choices

At 03:05 PM 24/9/98 -0700, you wrote:
>As long as we're on the subject of rings, has anyone seen or used gapless
>rings? They seem to be all the rage in top fuel this year.
>

I used them in my late, great 57 F100's 289. Very good IMNSHO,
it lost 3# of compression on average in 80,000 miles.

Steve & the Rockette





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Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 22:29:16 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67-72 TORQUE QUIZ

Now a harder question, to those 67-72 owners who had 240's I'm wondering
if anyone could tell me the torque on that motor I know it had 150 hp but
what about torque?
Robert



If I get this one, do I go on to the bonus round ? ? ? ? ?

So you want to know about torque, huh ? I'll tell you about torque ! My
69 F350 240 T18 4:56 had more torque than Richard Petty ever dreamed about
! !
I haven't calibrated the dyno in the garage in a long time, but the last
time I checked the torque on mine it was..........







(You weren't really looking for the answer were you ? ? ? ? )

Although I never measured it, this combo produced an amazing torque
curve.........even without using granny-gear.
With granny gear engaged, I'd match it up with any Terex Bucket !
If you really want a number, using the SWAG method of computation, I'm
sure it was over 8 or 9000 ft-lbs !
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW AC
1970 F100 (ret)

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 22:33:26 EDT
From: Bato125 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66' Floormat

Does anybody know where I could the original floormat for a 66 F-250 camper
special which is red and black in a small diamond design? It was the original
one in it. I have look through auto crafters and all they have is black or
red. Thanks a lot.

Michael
16
66 F-250
Colorado
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 23:18:00 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 Swap

In a message dated 98-09-24 19:00:57 EDT, you write:

>
i used motor mounts for a 390 in my swap. the two holes in the 390 mount will
practicaly line up with two of the holes in a 60 block, but you have to turn
the mounts
a little, you will have to grind out the holes just a little to line up. you
will have to cut off the corners of the mounts to clear the oil pan rail. it
may be best to spend the 100.00 to get the right ones, but i happened to have
a set of the 390 mounts laying around, so it was worth it to me.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:44:19 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Smoky 302

The 302 in my neighbor's '62 F100 blows some smoke out the exhaust when
stomped on. I understand this in a somewhat used engine (rings, valve
guides, etc.).

The question I have is why does it seem to stop smoking altogether when it
is a quart low on oil, according to the dipstick (not my neighbor, the one
in the engine).




1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429(destined for the Mustang)
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
1996 Windstar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 22:15:27 -0600
From: "Jeremy and Virginia"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Can I replace a regular cab with an extended cab?

I have a 1970 F-100 4x4 with a regular cab and long bed. I want to know if
I can replace the regular cab and long bed with an extended cab and short
bed. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeremy


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 23:27:07 -0500
From: DAN & MARSHA HERRMANN
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Lubricants

Hello,

Having been employed in the Lubricants business now for 11 years I have
learned a few things. In response to a couple of recent questions:

As someone else mentioned, DEXRON III does replace DEXRON II. The oil
industry went to this when GM changed the specs on thier new cars a few
years back. This means a higher spec and a better product for your older
car/truck which used to call for Dexron or Dex II. 90% of the brands on
the market will list this as DEXRON III / MERCON. And virtually all the
oil Industry changed to this. So, if your still finding DEX II, then your
buying old stock!

On the Gear Lube question, if your looking for Limited Slip Lube, then look
for the multi-grade gear lube like 75w-90, 75w-140, 80-85w-90 or 85w-140
"THAT MEETS A GL-5 SPEC". This already has the additive in it. The old
Limited Slip additive you buy in the parts store is for the older
straight-weight gear lubes like EP-90 or EP-140 that only meets a GL-3
spec. Stay away from a GL-1 spec, this is straight mineral oil.

I hope this helps some of you.

Thank you!

Dan Herrmann

1979 F-150 Ranger XLT
1975 F-150 Explorer
1969 F-100 Ranger
1964 F-100 Custom Cab




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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 00:49:19 -0400
From: "Melayne Arnold"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 Swap

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rick and Deborah Kelso
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 6:47 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 Swap


>Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 10:12:20 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Tony Marino
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bizzare turn of events.y
>
>Quick question for you guys- I noticed most of you saying that if I
>want to put a 460 in a 78 truck that use to have a 351m in it, I
>needed special motor mounts from L&L for about a hundred bucks- Are
>the stancions different on this truck you are talking about (the
>'74CS) or could I just go to the local autoparts and ask for the
>mounts from a '74 460 and drop them in my '78 to save a couple bucks?
>
>Thanks
>
>Tony
>tony pscico.com
>www.pscico.com/~tony
>
>All you need is two engine mounts for a 460 truck and the 2 frame stands
that are
>still available from Ford.
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
If you go the dealership route, it will be quite expensive. Factory mounts
for the 460 in 2wd are a three piece mount, the stanchions, the motor
mounts, and a rubber and metal insulator between them. The entire set for....


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