61-79-list-digest Thursday, September 17 1998 Volume 02 : Number 450



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Exhaust Studs
FTE 61-79 - 65 Cab
FTE 61-79 - rear seal
Re: FTE 61-79 - rear seal
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 Cab
FTE 61-79 - Coil spring retainers
FTE 61-79 - Hub Caps
Re: FTE 61-79 - Coil spring retainers
RE: FTE 61-79 - Coil spring retainers
FTE 61-79 - Jim Osborn
Re: FTE 61-79 - Jim Osborn
FTE 61-79 - Hot 460
FTE 61-79 - Re: 65 Cab question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Killeen?
FTE 61-79 - Henry's home page
FTE 61-79 - more cooling
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pop Quiz, solution
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pop Quiz, solution
FTE 61-79 - Power Steering
FTE 61-79 - Rear End Seals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Seals
FTE 61-79 - T-18 shifter pin
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 f-150 4x4 for sale

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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 05:26:23 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust Studs

- -> I found the gasket surface on the manifold to be pitted and dressed
it as
> best one could in the limited space. Also, the exhaust studs and nuts were
> not the best of shape. Wanting to replace those nuts, I did find that a
> standard 7/16"x14 nut would not go on the stud. In checking further, I
> found that the thread was slightly off 14 TPI. Suspect that someone did
> some forcing in the past. However, the nuts did tighten quite well. A dab
> of removable Locktite was added for good measure. Next time she comes
> apart, I have a hunch that it will be necessary to heat the manifold to
> remove and replace the studs.

The studs probably shrunk from heating and cooling

- -
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 10:20:28 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 Cab

>>>>>Can someone please tell me what year Cabs I can search for?
Some people are telling me that I can only use Late 64, 65 and 66.
Others say anything from 61 to 66 will work (fenders and emblems may be
different)
I live in NJ near Philadelphia and would welcome any referrals to good
junk
yards in this region.
Any replys are appreciated.
Also I heard that you can get stepside beds from a guy in Norwood NC.
I tried to call but got no answer. Does anyone know what they cost?

Brad, The only cab you can use is the 65 or 66. The 61 thru 64 cabs have
different mounting locations for the frame. The 65-66 also use doughnut
shaped rubber spacers where the earlier have a U shaped rubber spacer.
Also most panels interchange between the years except the floor pan, way
different.

As far as the company from Norwood NC. They are called Dan Carpenters
Specialities. The phone number I have is 704-474-3842. The area code
could be different now. NC is in the process of adding two new area codes
and I think Norwood is affected. My catalog from them is old but here are
some prices.

Bed Sides $235.00 each (have several custom styles too)
Front Box Panel $100.00
Bed runners (3) $120.00
Smooth Tailgate $245.00
Orig. Tailgate $375.00
Floor Wood (oak) $210.00

They also sell the complete bed but my catalog does not have it listed.

Good luck.
Jon E. Purut.
Raleigh, NC
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/Chelley
Two 1965 F100s
One 1964 F500
One 1977 F150 Daily driver


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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:12:28 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rear seal

Bill Templeton writes: >>My 1966 F350, 352 is leaking at the rear main oil
seal. Can the seal be replaced without removing the transmission, clutch,
and flywheel? The are two types of seals listed, molded and another type.
Which type of seal is recommended?

Yes it can be done.

Loosen motor mounts and jack up engine and insert small 2X4 wood blocks
between the engine and mount stands.

Drain the oil, remove oil pan bolts and remove oil pan. (you may have to
remove the oip pump pickup tube and you may have to rotate the crankshaft a
few degrees to get the counterthrows up out of the way).

Loosen all the main bearing caps slightly (Half round to one round per bolt
should be plenty) and remove the rear main cap completely.

If you have a rope seal the going gets tough here, If you have neoprene
seal its a breeze. (I much prefer the neoprene seal)

Rope seal removal: You need two people for this. Loosen one end of the
seal as much as you can and try to get a pair of good needlenose pliers
hold on it.(don't fray it any more than you have to) Get some blunt
instrument (aluminum rod or the like) that will go in the same slot that
the seal is in and tap the opposite end of the seal from the one you have
the pliers on with a hammer as your friend rotates the crankshaft in that
direction while pulling on the other end with the needlenose pliers. Once
it breaks loose you can probably just pull with the pliers and rotate the
crank to finish removing. Getting it started is the tough part. DO NOT
NICK/SCAR THE SEAL SURFACE OF THE CRANK. Be very careful.

Reverse procedure for install.

A golden opportunity to check/replace main bearings here if they are worn.
(They can be rotated out/in the same way as the seal, except they won't be
stuck) Do them one at a time so as not to get too much downward pressure
on the front seal.

Have I left out anything Guys??

Good luck.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:14:52 -0500
From: "Dennis Witthuhn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rear seal

also if you do decide to do the main bearings make sure to properly torque
the main caps when you put it back together. and like the rear seal DO NOT
SCRATCH OR MAR THE BEARING SURFACES ON THE CRANKSHAFT OR MAIN CAP!!!
- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 chrysler.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 8:19 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rear seal


>Bill Templeton writes: >>My 1966 F350, 352 is leaking at the rear main oil
>seal. Can the seal be replaced without removing the transmission, clutch,
>and flywheel? The are two types of seals listed, molded and another type.
>Which type of seal is recommended?
>
>Yes it can be done.
>
>Loosen motor mounts and jack up engine and insert small 2X4 wood blocks
>between the engine and mount stands.
>
>Drain the oil, remove oil pan bolts and remove oil pan. (you may have to
>remove the oip pump pickup tube and you may have to rotate the crankshaft a
>few degrees to get the counterthrows up out of the way).
>
>Loosen all the main bearing caps slightly (Half round to one round per bolt
>should be plenty) and remove the rear main cap completely.
>
>If you have a rope seal the going gets tough here, If you have neoprene
>seal its a breeze. (I much prefer the neoprene seal)
>
>Rope seal removal: You need two people for this. Loosen one end of the
>seal as much as you can and try to get a pair of good needlenose pliers
>hold on it.(don't fray it any more than you have to) Get some blunt
>instrument (aluminum rod or the like) that will go in the same slot that
>the seal is in and tap the opposite end of the seal from the one you have
>the pliers on with a hammer as your friend rotates the crankshaft in that
>direction while pulling on the other end with the needlenose pliers. Once
>it breaks loose you can probably just pull with the pliers and rotate the
>crank to finish removing. Getting it started is the tough part. DO NOT
>NICK/SCAR THE SEAL SURFACE OF THE CRANK!! Be very careful!
>
>Reverse procedure for install.
>
>A golden opportunity to check/replace main bearings here if they are worn.
>(They can be rotated out/in the same way as the seal, except they won't be
>stuck) Do them one at a time so as not to get too much downward pressure
>on the front seal.
>
>Have I left out anything Guys??
>
>Good luck.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
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>
>

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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 07:46:43 -0700
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 Cab

- -----Original Message-----
Can someone please tell me what year Cabs I can search for?
Some people are telling me that I can only use Late 64, 65 and 66.
Others say anything from 61 to 66 will work (fenders and emblems may be
different)
I live in NJ near Philadelphia and would welcome any referrals to good
junk yards in this region.
Any replys are appreciated.
Also I heard that you can get stepside beds from a guy in Norwood NC.
I tried to call but got no answer. Does anyone know what they cost?

I has the order forms for their catalogs.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ford.htm


John Gillespie
email: gillespj spawar.navy.mil


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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:54:25 -0500
From: sjacobi fd9ns01.okladot.state.ok.us
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Coil spring retainers

I have been doing some front end work on my '67 2wd F100 and I noticed that
the clips which bolt the top of the coil springs to their seats are broken
through on both sides. Are these necessary? I have been unable to find
replacements. Any thoughts or suggestions will be welcome.

Steve



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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:57:23 -0500
From: Albert Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hub Caps

Look like 37 Ford Deluxe to mme. FWIW

Al
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 10:23:04 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Coil spring retainers

>I have been doing some front end work on my '67 2wd F100 and I noticed that
>the clips which bolt the top of the coil springs to their seats are broken
>through on both sides. Are these necessary? I have been unable to find
>replacements. Any thoughts or suggestions will be welcome.

The rear springs in my Mustang are held in by the fact that the shocks
won't extend far enough to let them fall out, I would guess that a similar
situation occurs on the trucks which would make the retainers just an extra
precaution. I would also not worry too much about it if you don't extend
the wheels to their full travel. I guess there *MIGHT* be a possibility of
somehow setting up a harmonic that could bounce the spring out, but if you
have good pads, and a good seating position (I'm not familiar with the 2wd
setup) I wouldn't worry about it too much.


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 08:44:54 -0700
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Coil spring retainers

I have been doing some front end work on my '67 2wd F100 and I noticed =
that
the clips which bolt the top of the coil springs to their seats are =
broken
through on both sides. Are these necessary? I have been unable to =
find
replacements. Any thoughts or suggestions will be welcome.

I don't know about the others on the list but I am using =BE inch =
conduit
clamps to hold mine in until I can make a run to my favorite auto =
recycler
(junkyard).



John Gillespie
email: gillespj spawar.navy.mil
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 10:53:44 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Jim Osborn

I noticed in Oct 98 issue of Mustang & Fords magazine, page 14, they had a
nice write-up on Jim Osborn. Sounds like he was quite a classy guy. I
hate it when I miss out meeting people like that.

On to Ford Truck business - a few days ago there was a thread ( I fell way
behind on work and missed alot of it) about acrylic enamel paints and
someone had made a recomendation on paint materials.

I plan on having acrylic enamel shot on my truck in the next few
weeks/months and
wanted to get the best I could find. Any recomendations or preferences from
the experienced paint crowd.

Thanks
Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 10:20:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Jim Osborn

Stu asked:

> I plan on having acrylic enamel shot on my truck in the next few
> weeks/months and
> wanted to get the best I could find. Any recomendations or preferences
> from the experienced paint crowd.

I've used Dupont Centari acrylic enamel with good results for quite a
while. Make sure you use the hardener, though. I painted my '68 F-100
(two tone blue/white) on a long weekend, forgot hardener, wanted to
finish, so I painted anyway. Must have taken it six months to cure!

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 10:27:23 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hot 460


>2. Are you using a thermostat ? If not get one in there.
At that engine
>speed (3200) the water may be going through the radiator
TOO fast; >not
>allowing it to cool enough. It needs that resriction to
keep the flow at =
the
>proper level.

>> No offense, but this is a complete and total myth.

I have seen this happen twice. Once was on a Mercury marine
engine. it has a heat exchanger in place of a rad and it was probably
sized a bit small for the engine (a 180 hp 4 cyl.). It always ran warm,
so my Dad pulled the thermostat out. That made it run even hotter. The
eventual fix was to put in a larger heat exchanger.
The other time was in my '64 G*C that i had when i was in
Highschool. It had *quite* a few cores soldered up in the rad and did
the same thing without a thermostat. It was my Automotive shop teacher
who pointed this out to me at the time.
IN both cases there was something else wrong with the cooling
system (why else would you pull the t-stat?) but it can happen.

Don Jones, Northern Ont, Canada
1985 f-150 SC ~~~FOR SALE~~
1970 f-250 4X4 ~~Fordzilla!!~~~

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 11:06:32 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 65 Cab question

On Mon, 14 Sep 1998, "Brad Jones" wrote:
>
> I recently bought a 65 F truck.
> The cab bottom is in really bad shape (does thick carpet qualify as a
> floor?)
> Can someone please tell me what year Cabs I can search for?
> Some people are telling me that I can only use Late 64, 65 and 66.
> Others say anything from 61 to 66 will work (fenders and emblems may be
> different)

As far as I have noticed my '61 F100 4wd cab looks exactly the same as
my '66 F250 2wd except the VIN plate is in the glove box on the '61 and
on the door of the '66...and of course the grille...oh yeah, the
steering column locations and clutch and brake pedals are different too.

IMO the nicest looking cab ever put on any truck.

Birken
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 15:04:15 EDT
From: bobherring juno.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Killeen?

>Anyone from the list live in or around Killeen, Texas?
>We're working here for the week....
>Just checking...
>Colorado Jeff
I live in Gatesville, about 30 miles north-west of Killeen.


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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 14:02:11 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Henry's home page

Well...........

I sort of have a home page for Henry. You veteran's of home page knowledge,
don't laugh too hard. You might be able to see my stuff at
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/. You also might try
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm/. When I go here, I get
a directory. If you go to henry.home.htm from the directory, you should
load the page that is supposed to be the home page. The jpegs named the
same but with numbers are the graphics that belong to this page. The other
files are full size images of Henry or his parts. Come to think of it, when
some of you try it, you may get something totally different since this is
my directory. Anyway, if someone(s) would try it and let me know what
happened privately, I will attempt to fix it. Like I told Ken, putting it
on someone else's server is a little different from putting it on your own.

I'll be away from my computer Thursday. Thanks in Advance.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, only one dent left from the crash
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 14:02:46 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more cooling

Over the weekend I traded out the 3.75 inch fan spacer for a 2.25 inch one.
Now the weather has cooled off so I may not be able to tell the difference
undisputably until next summer. I am happier with the way the fan fits in
the shroud now at least.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, only one dent left from the crash
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 15:08:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: hurdj VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pop Quiz, solution

`

On Fri, 11 Sep 1998, Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> Ok, so you guys don't get carpel tunnel trying to straighten me out I'll tell you
> what happened but I still have a question for Steve: Why would the green
> wire going to the module on dura spark II have power on it with key off?
> (maybe I lett it on by mistake, not sure now)
>
> First thing I checked was coil mount bolt (coil has to be grounded) then coil

Gary....I don't *think* the coil needs to be grounded, as the current
travels in the "BAT" terminal of the coil, through the primary windings,
and out the "tach" terminal to the DuraSpark II ignition module (via
the green wire). No need for the coil to be grounded.

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 15:26:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: hurdj VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pop Quiz, solution

>
> Yeah, that was my thought too. I believe the green wire is the coil input to
> the module and the module actually turns it on and off by opening and
> closing the circuit to ground right? Power to the coil actually comes from
> the red wire from the battery.......?

Gary...Just for clarification, power to the coil is the red wire, but
its source should be the starter relay when the iginition switch is in
crank mode (full battery voltage), and when in run mode the red wires
source is the ignition switch, and includes a ballast resistor of 1.05
to 1.15 ohms.

The red wire that powers the DuraSpark II Ignition Module supplys full
battery voltage to the module when the ignition switch is in either
crank or run mode.

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 16:11:57 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering

I have been building up a 1972 F250 4x4 for over a year now. From the
beginning I have planned on modifying the steering by installing a power
steering gear box and tie-rods from a newer F-series truck. I have read
articles and been told that certain models and years work best for this
conversion. However, now that I am actively looking for the part in salvage
yards I am being told contradicting stories about the year and model I want to
get the parts from. Of course I cannot find the articles that I read earlier.
Any help on the subject would be greatly appreciated by me. Thanks Burt Hill
Kennewick, WA
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:06:56 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Seals

IM have no idea what is going on. I have a '78 F250 with a Dana 60 in
the rear, and the seals will not hold, both hub, and the pinion. I can
put them in, and in a few days they will start leaking. I know im
putting them in right, had my uncle (one of theose ASE guys) check out
the surfaces on the pinion and the axle housing, and he said they were
fine, he couldnt figure why they would leak. They only leak round the
inner part of the seal, not the outter where it seals with the housing.
They only thing that I can figure is that MAYBE the axle vent hole is
clogged??? I have heard that can make the seals not hold..


cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460


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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 14:57:12 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Seals

At 05:06 PM 9/16/98 -0500, you wrote:
>IM have no idea what is going on. I have a '78 F250 with a Dana 60 in
>the rear, and the seals will not hold, both hub, and the pinion. I can
>put them in, and in a few days they will start leaking. I know im
>putting them in right, had my uncle (one of theose ASE guys) check out
>the surfaces on the pinion and the axle housing, and he said they were
>fine, he couldnt figure why they would leak. They only leak round the
>inner part of the seal, not the outter where it seals with the housing.
>They only thing that I can figure is that MAYBE the axle vent hole is
>clogged??? I have heard that can make the seals not hold..

Very True. As the fluid in the rear end heats up, it expands. If the vent
hole is plugged, it will find the next available spot to vent some of this
pressure. Usually by pushing air/fluid out the inner portions of the seals.

Later
Keith Srb

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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:17:40 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - T-18 shifter pin

Hi all,

Well, my NP435 blew up (OK, thats kinda harsh), seemingly from having
the truck towed for 4 miles (distrb shaft snapped). Seems wierd, but now
the truck is stuck in 3rd gear. Opening the case did not reveal much.
Everything looks OK. Anyway. I have a T-18 from a 79 Bronc. I got it
with the shifter removed, and I can't find the pin that holds the whole
thing together. Where can I get this pin? Do I even need this pin? I
have not called around for it yet, as it's 9:00 at night and I spent all
day removing blown tranny.

Thanks in advance.

OX
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 22:31:55 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 f-150 4x4 for sale

Um Gary, hate to tell ya, but they didn't make F250 4X4s with 460s in 1978.....


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