61-79-list-digest Saturday, September 12 1998 Volume 02 : Number 444



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Silly newbie timing question
FTE 61-79 - Horn button hopelessness
FTE 61-79 - Overheating
FTE 61-79 - BOOM
FTE 61-79 - Intake removal FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Intake removal FE
FTE 61-79 - RE: Sunday 13th
Re: FTE 61-79 - Horn button hopelessness
FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman
Re: FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes
FTE 61-79 - Re: stuck intake manifold
FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....
FTE 61-79 - off topic, I need advice on chanpaign for the wedding
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: stuck intake manifold
FTE 61-79 - paint
Re: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....
Re: FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman
Re: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....
FTE 61-79 - Adjustable power brake booster pushrod
Re: FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman
FTE 61-79 - Blow by to Transmission type
Re: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shop Manual for '64 F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Sunday 13th
Re: FTE 61-79 - Blow by to Transmission type
Re: FTE 61-79 - paint
FTE 61-79 - See ya Sept 21
FTE 61-79 - New Engines
FTE 61-79 - HVLP
FTE 61-79 - Voltage
FTE 61-79 - Big Bang
FTE 61-79 - More on paint

=======================================================================

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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 12:47:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Silly newbie timing question

Date sent: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 09:47:41 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Silly newbie timing question

> only get it better to a point. So, I marked where the distributor was in
> relation to the block, loosened the nut and started turning. Amazing,
> turned the distributor about 1/64 of a turn counter clockwise (looking at
> the engine from the front) and the idle smoothed out perfectly.

If you have good performance with no spark knock at low rpm, high load
then you're home free but if not I suspect you need to adjust or replace the
vac on the dizzy. Idle needs lots of advance due to lean mixture and very
poor VE so with an initial of about 12-14 (for a 6 cyl I believe?) you need
roughly 30 degrees of vac advance to make it idle properly. Check your
advance with a timing light with vac disconnected and then connected and
see what you get. With vac connected to manifold vac you should be near
40 degrees with carb properly adjusted for best economy. If you have
serious flat spots off idle under load (hot takeoffs) with this setup you may
need to try the ported vac on the carb and readjust the idle mixture for best
idle which will give you a much richer idle mixure to offset the lean transition
to midrange or WOT.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 09:52:20 -0700
From: Sean Hess
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Horn button hopelessness

Fellow Paleo-Fordites,

When I bought my '69 F250, one of the previous owners had removed the horn
button and horn ring. I recently picked up a replacement at my favorite
junkyard, but I hit a snag when I went to install it. The threaded metal
center of the steering column (apologies for poor terminology) sticks up so far
that the horn button assembly will not sit down into the steering wheel far
enough to engage the three mounting slots. It's almost like the outside
portion of the steering column has sunk down relative to the center portion of
the steering column, leaving the threaded thingy in the middle to stick up too
high.

Is that possible? Has anyone else had this problem?

Dr. Hess
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 12:56:56 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

Mike Orendorf writes: >>My unproved conclusions, it seems that the higher
the engine RPM, the hotter it runs. What I dont know is why. Its not air
flow based, I think its one of following things:

My bet is that the radiator is too small or the t'stat is not fully
opening, or there is some other restriction in the flow. It takes a large
capacity of water to cool a large displacement engine. A buildup on the
inside of the radiator could also cause poor heat tansfer from the water to
the air, but is sufficient at lower rpms with less load on the engine. How
long has this radiator been in the vehicle with out being
flushed/rodded????


Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 12:58:40 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - BOOM

Gary! Your problem would be in the ignition circuit - as in intermittent
spark, maybe.

Tell me - I wanna know.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:13:52 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Intake removal FE

Jamie Moss writes: >>If anyone has any suggestions on how to pop this
manifold loose, please let me know.

Sometimes those FE's can be a pain in the but. If you are sure all of the
intake bolts are out, then drive a large screwdriver or cold chisel in
between the block and heads(on the lower side). The 390 was last in
production in '76, I believe, and that is 22 years for the thing to get
fairly solidified, as you say that it is original. Get rough with it, and
hope you don't crack/break anything. That intake probably weighs 85/90 lbs,
so it is pretty much indestructable.

Good luck

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:33:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intake removal FE

I used a wood splitting wedge in the space between the manifold and head.
tapped it in a bit then whacked on it as a lever with a small hand held
sledge. no dings on the head at all because the sharp edge of the wedge
was being banged up against the manifold and not against the head. I weigh
120 lbs so neede all the help in the way of leverage that i can get.



Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 10:37:32 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Sunday 13th

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 07:59:18 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sunday 13th

Is anyone planning on going to the Fun Ford Sunday at the Great Mall in
Milpitas? It is supposed to be the second year for this event.


- - --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.
================================
I will. Do you have any more details?

Tom H


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:50:47 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Horn button hopelessness

From: Sean Hess
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Horn button hopelessness
Date sent: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 09:52:20 -0700

> center of the steering column (apologies for poor terminology) sticks up
> so far that the horn button assembly will not sit down into the steering
> wheel far enough to engage the three mounting slots. It's almost like the

The steering wheel hub has a tapered, splined hole in it so if it is seated that
deeply it either has the wrong wheel or wrong column in it or the hub has
been monkeyed with.

If OTOH, the poblem is column interference rather than shaft then the
bearing my be missing or improperly installed under the steering wheel hub.
In any case you need to pull the wheel and see what the heck is going on in
there :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:00:43 -0500
From: Mike Masse
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman

What would cause an I6-300 w/ Carter 1 bbl to backfire only when the
vehicle is coasting? The faster I'm going the louder it is. If I'm
driving in town around 25 or so and I coast I get multiple quiet
backfires which sound more like a gurgling type of sound. If I'm on the
highway I get the gurgling, but I'll also get a few loud bangs. This
engine idles great and seems to run great under power. Oh, this doesn't
do it if I push in the clutch to coast, it only seems to do it if the
inertia of the truck is pushing on the engine. One other thing that I
don't know if it is related or not. When I start the engine I get a
pretty large cloud of smoke that stops right away which I believe is
signifying some sort of valve/valve stem problem. I never see smoke any
other time.

-Mike
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 14:28:53 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman

Hmmm, I get the same thing, but I believe I have found the cause in my
case. I've got the '78 intake with EGR that has a 3/4" pipe connecting the
EGR plate (intake) with the exhaust manifold near piston #5. Prior to
transplanting my engine in its current van, I noticed no holes in the EGR
"pipe". After banging it around during install, I believe I have opened
the crease like hole in the pipe right after the flange that connects it to
the exhaust manifold. Thus, I believe the gurging sounds are from this
hole in the exhaust manifold.

I'm also forwarding a message I got awhile back that might be similar that
(end of message) discusses manifold leaks and noises.

Good luck, if you get a concrete answer/solution, please let me know as a
fellow sufferer!

John

At 01:00 PM 9/11/98 -0500, you wrote:
>What would cause an I6-300 w/ Carter 1 bbl to backfire only when the
>vehicle is coasting? The faster I'm going the louder it is. If I'm
>driving in town around 25 or so and I coast I get multiple quiet
>backfires which sound more like a gurgling type of sound. If I'm on the
>highway I get the gurgling, but I'll also get a few loud bangs. This
>engine idles great and seems to run great under power. Oh, this doesn't
>do it if I push in the clutch to coast, it only seems to do it if the
>inertia of the truck is pushing on the engine. One other thing that I
>don't know if it is related or not. When I start the engine I get a
>pretty large cloud of smoke that stops right away which I believe is
>signifying some sort of valve/valve stem problem. I never see smoke any
>other time.
>
> -Mike
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>
>

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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 09:57:47 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

At 09:24 AM 9/11/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi All,Will a disc brake set up from a 73-75 work on my 69 camper
>special.If so how much of the front end parts will I need.Thanks in
>advance.Also did any one look into the 69 F-500 I posted for sale in
>Maine in early September.Thanks again. Mike

Check out the disc brake conversion guide in the tech article
section of the FTE web site.

Ken



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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:39:41 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: stuck intake manifold

Jamey writes:

>I'm new to engine disassembling/rebuilding, so I'm coming to you gurus
>for
>help. I'm disassembling my 390 for a rebuild, following Steve
>Christ's How to
>Rebuild Your Big Block Ford Engine book, and I've run into a snag that
>I was
>hoping someone here could help me with. I'm down to the intake
>manifold, and
>that thing won't come off.
>

This is a brute force job, no question. They seal real good, and it
doesn't help that the FE intake weighs approx. 1700 lbs... When I pulled
the intake on my 360 I was able to pry it loose with a tire iron. DO NOT
pry machined surfaces; there are bumps and things you can use. It might
help if you hook up your engine hoist to the carb mounting face and apply
some tension while you pry (please be careful). Judicious hammer taps on
the intake while it's under tension might also pop it loose. Good luck.
FEs are cool!

lordjanusz juno.com

"The beatings will continue until morale improves..."

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:49:25 -0500
From: David John
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....

Enthusiasts,

My love of Fords and my machanic skills were taught me by my father.
The only problem is, is that he just told me what to take apart or put
together and not why or what I was doing. Now I have found the perfect
site to learn about Fords, and I find I don't follow all of the
conversations. So be gentle and help me learn more about my 1978 F250
Supercab Camper Special 4x4 w/460 and a 4spd:

1)What is meant by FE, I gather it is a type of block, but what is its
difference and how can I tell if I have one?

2)How can I tell the year of my engine (previous owner switched from 400
to 460)?

3)How can I tell if I have an internally or externally balanced engine?

4)What effect does how my engine is balanced have on me wanting to
switch to an c6 auto?

5)Will any 78-79 c6 np205 bolt up to my 460 or do I have to find the
right bell housing/torque converter?

6)Is it possible to put in an 80's vintage 5spd in? Has anyone done
this?

Help teach me.........

David
'78 F250 Supercab Camper Special 4x4 w/460
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 15:10:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - off topic, I need advice on chanpaign for the wedding

Cheap but good.....any ideas? I'm thinking in the range of $4.00/bottle?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 14:26:06 -0500
From: "Bob Brothers"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: stuck intake manifold

> -----Original Message-----
> Sent: Friday, September 11, 1998 1:40 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: stuck intake manifold
> This is a brute force job, no question. They seal real good, and it
> doesn't help that the FE intake weighs approx. 1700 lbs...

WOW! No wonder I had such a hard time lifting that 4bbl manifold off
and setting the 2bbl on ;> Didn't know it was THAT heavy though.

> When I pulled
> the intake on my 360 I was able to pry it loose with a tire iron. DO NOT
> pry machined surfaces; there are bumps and things you can use.

Yes try not to wedge anything between the gasket surfaces of the manifold.
On the front and rear corners there should be just enough "bump" to
hook a tire iron or crowbar on.

Good Luck
Bob Brothers

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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 14:31:18 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - paint

While we are talking paint, there is something else that needs to be
mentioned. There are several qualities of paint at several levels of price.
If you decide to do a first time paint job, research which paint will best
yield the results you desire. Different paints may well require a different
type of gun and definitely will require different kinds of breathing
equipment. All paints are toxic AFAIK, but some are DEADLY. Please. please
do your homework.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, freshly painted, straight door; no trim yet, but
it locks and keeps the cool air in !!!!
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:06:33 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....

>Enthusiasts,
>
>My love of Fords and my machanic skills were taught me by my father.
>The only problem is, is that he just told me what to take apart or put
>together and not why or what I was doing. Now I have found the perfect
>site to learn about Fords, and I find I don't follow all of the
>conversations. So be gentle and help me learn more about my 1978 F250
>Supercab Camper Special 4x4 w/460 and a 4spd:

Hehheh, fresh meat... welcome aboard!


>1)What is meant by FE, I gather it is a type of block, but what is its
>difference and how can I tell if I have one?

FE stands for "Ford Edsel". The Edsel was the first vehicle to use
the "FE" block, back in 1958. The first FE's had a wopping 332 CID...
Over the years, displacement was increased, and the FE family
included, 332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428, and the awesome 427 SOHC.
Also there was a heavier duty version of the 360 and 390 called "FT"
(Ford Truck) that was used in large trucks.
The entire FE family shares the same basic block design, altho there are
some variations in block detail (especially oiling system) for some of
the motors. The last year for FE's was 1976.

It's easy to pick an FE out of a crowd. Just look at the intake manifold.
If the edges of the manifold go all the way under the edge of the valve
covers, so that the manifold actually forms part of the rocker chamber,
then You got an FE (or FT) in front of You.


>2)How can I tell the year of my engine (previous owner switched from 400
>to 460)?

Find some casting #'s on the heads and block. Post 'em to the list and
let the guru's decide what You got...


>3)How can I tell if I have an internally or externally balanced engine?

I'm probably wrong, but I thought all 460's were internal balance?


>4)What effect does how my engine is balanced have on me wanting to
>switch to an c6 auto?

Mmmm. probably none.


>5)Will any 78-79 c6 np205 bolt up to my 460 or do I have to find the
>right bell housing/torque converter?

Someone else will have to guess that one... I dunno.


>6)Is it possible to put in an 80's vintage 5spd in? Has anyone done
>this?

Like a T-5 from a mustang or something?
It *might* be possible to bolt a T-5 up to a 460, but even if You
get it bolted up, it wont likely stay there....
The T-5 isn't all that strong, and was used mostly behind 302's.
Unless You are *very* gentle with it, the torque of a 460 will
probably turn it into a box of hot oily gravel in very short time.


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 16:06:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman

Date sent: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:00:43 -0500
From: Mike Masse
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman

> What would cause an I6-300 w/ Carter 1 bbl to backfire only when the
> vehicle is coasting?

This sounds more like rich mixture or oil fouling to me. Older carbs used to
allow more fuel to be sucked in on decelleration but newer ones have a
dashpot that keeps the throttle open longer to reduce this phenomenon.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 16:12:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....

Date sent: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 13:49:25 -0500
From: David John
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....

> 1)What is meant by FE, I gather it is a type of block, but what is its
> difference and how can I tell if I have one?

Older big blocks from the muscle car era, 427, 352, 390, 428, 410, 406 and
others.

> 2)How can I tell the year of my engine (previous owner switched from 400
> to 460)?

Not sure about that but the 400/351M are 335 series engines and the 429/460
are 385 series.

> 3)How can I tell if I have an internally or externally balanced engine?

All 335 series are externally balnaced by the flywheel, 385 series are
externally balanced after 1978 by flywheel and front seal sleeve. Pre 385
series are zero balanced as are 302 and 351W.

> 4)What effect does how my engine is balanced have on me wanting to
> switch to an c6 auto?

None as long as you have the correct flywheel or flex plate.

> 5)Will any 78-79 c6 np205 bolt up to my 460 or do I have to find the
> right bell housing/torque converter?

As long as the bellhousing is made for that engine and you have the flexplate
and torque converter for the style of crank it has.

> 6)Is it possible to put in an 80's vintage 5spd in? Has anyone done
> this?

There are two 5 speeds, Mazda and ZF, the ZF is better but is not a direct
bolt in.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 14:22:02 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Adjustable power brake booster pushrod

My new power brake booster + master cylinder combo has arrived
(woohooo!). Can anyone tell me how to adjust the pushrod to length?

Michael

69 F250 360 auto (awaiting 4 bbl conversion + valve stem seals)
69 F250 390 T18 Posi (awaiting new booster/mc)


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 16:37:33 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Holy backfires Batman

Exhaust leak.

Darrell Duggan aka JUMPINFORD AOL.COM
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 15:43:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Blow by to Transmission type

William King [kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu] wrote:

>BTW, what type of 4 speed do you have? Is it a Toploader, NP, or
>T-18? Did it come that way, or did you convert it?

the 4 speed came in it. I don't know what kind it is, maybe I'll do some looking while I'm diagnosing the
blow by. I do know its got a really really low 1st gear. Actually its more like a 1/2 gear cause I rarely use it.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 15:46:06 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....

There is an article on FE engines in this month's "Mustang and 5.0 Fords"
(or something close to that. I don't typically read that , but I got stuck
in the Atlanta airport a couple weeks ago and had little to choose from).

I didn't read it word for word, but it looked to be pretty thorough. If you
have trouble finding it, e-mail me direct and I'll get the exact name and
issue of the mag (or fax it to you).

Nils Gore
- ----------
>From: David John
>To: Ford List
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - I need an education, but be gentle....
>Date: Fri, Sep 11, 1998, 1:49 PM
>

>Enthusiasts,
>
>My love of Fords and my machanic skills were taught me by my father.
>The only problem is, is that he just told me what to take apart or put
>together and not why or what I was doing. Now I have found the perfect
>site to learn about Fords, and I find I don't follow all of the
>conversations. So be gentle and help me learn more about my 1978 F250
>Supercab Camper Special 4x4 w/460 and a 4spd:
>
>1)What is meant by FE, I gather it is a type of block, but what is its
>difference and how can I tell if I have one?
>
>2)How can I tell the year of my engine (previous owner switched from 400
>to 460)?
>
>3)How can I tell if I have an internally or externally balanced engine?
>
>4)What effect does how my engine is balanced have on me wanting to
>switch to an c6 auto?
>
>5)Will any 78-79 c6 np205 bolt up to my 460 or do I have to find the
>right bell housing/torque converter?
>
>6)Is it possible to put in an 80's vintage 5spd in? Has anyone done
>this?
>
>Help teach me.........
>
>David
>'78 F250 Supercab Camper Special 4x4 w/460
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 15:52:12 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shop Manual for '64 F-100

I got one (a re-print) for my 64 from Bob Johnson's auto literature. It was
about $50, I recall.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classicar.com/vendors/bobjautl/WHSALE.HTM

Nils Gore
The Small Town Center
Mississippi State University
601 325-2207

- ----------
>From: Bruce McDougall
>To: "'61-79-list ford-trucks.com'"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Shop Manual for '64 F-100
>Date: Tue, Sep 8, 1998, 9:20 AM
>

>I recently inherited a '64 F-100 from my dad (original owner). The engine
>is a straight 6 and totally original to the best of my knowledge. It has
>terrible blow-by and runs very rich. I want to repair/tune it for my son
>to drive but have been unable to locate a shop manual for this year truck.
> Can anybody suggest a source for the manual or will a manual for another
>year truck work?
>
>Thanks,
>Bruce McDougall
>bruce.mcdougall ips-sendero.com
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 14:08:05 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Sunday 13th

Hogan, Tom wrote:

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 07:59:18 +0000
> From: Don Grossman
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sunday 13th
>
> Is anyone planning on going to the Fun Ford Sunday at the Great Mall in
> Milpitas? It is supposed to be the second year for this event.
>
> - --
> Don Grossman
>
> ================================
> I will. Do you have any more details?
>
> Tom H
>

It is a car show at the old Ford plant. It was reopened as a shopping
mall. Last year I showed up near the end and there was about 200 car
there. everything from the 20's to 1997's. I think some of the guys on
the Fordnatics list were there. If I remember right it is on I-880 or 680
( don't quote me on this) Check out www.mapsonus.com to get from where you
are to there. It's an all day deal, you can send the SWMBO in to go
shopping and you can check out all the cars ;-)

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 16:20:54 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Blow by to Transmission type

I belive they call that tranny a 3+1 with a granny.




At 03:43 PM 9/11/98 -0500, you wrote:
>William King [kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu] wrote:
>
>>BTW, what type of 4 speed do you have? Is it a Toploader, NP, or
>>T-18? Did it come that way, or did you convert it?
>
>the 4 speed came in it. I don't know what kind it is, maybe I'll do some
looking while I'm diagnosing the
>blow by. I do know its got a really really low 1st gear. Actually its
more like a 1/2 gear cause I rarely use it.
>
>Bryan Kirking
>66 Step Side
>352 4 speed
>Houston, Texas
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 18:24:04 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - paint

At 02:31 PM 9/11/98 , you wrote:
>While we are talking paint, there is something else that needs to be
>mentioned. There are several qualities of paint at several levels of price.
>If you decide to do a first time paint job, research which paint will best
>yield the results you desire. Different paints may well require a different
>type of gun and definitely will require different kinds of breathing
>equipment. All paints are toxic AFAIK, but some are DEADLY. Please. please
>do your homework.
>-John LaGrone

Good point John. Isocyanate is what makes paint hazardous to your health.
Most paints have this in them. The only paint that I know of that doesn't
contain isocyanates are the polyoxithane products from DuPont. Imron is a
very dangerous paint (but there are different types of Imron - not all the
same). That requires a protective suit and a positive breathing apparatus.
Most painting can be done with a simple organic vapor resperator that is
available at all auto paint supply establishments.

Different paints do infact require a different tip and air cap. All
depends on how thick the material is that you are shooting. Most clears
require a smaller tip (1.3-1.4mm), and your high solids paint requires tips
from 1.5-2.1mm. That's why professionals use a different gun for primer,
primer-surfacer, sealer, basecoat/topcoat, and for clears. Some can be
used for sealers and clears, others for primer-surfacers and the color
paint (since surfacer is relatively thick).

You'd be amazed at the amount of different paint systems there are. You
can have five paint systems just from a single paint manufacturer. DuPont,
for instance, has Cronar, Chroma series, and Imron that I can name off
the top of my head. Then you have other paint manufacturers such as PPG,
Sikkens, R-M, Valspar, Spies Hecker, Martin Senour, Standox, ICI Autocolor,
BASF Glasurit, and Sherman Williams. Each has several different paint
systems.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN SITE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 22:01:04 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - See ya Sept 21

Forwarded for: "Gary, 78 BBB"

I'm going to uns*bscribe from the two main lists to prevent any server
glitches from irritating our list moms but will remain on the perf and core lists
if any business is addressed to me so don't try to get my attention next week,
I will be happily vacating at home decorating for the wedding.

You all keep warm and well fed and I'll type at you on the 21 of sept :-)

BTW, the champaign query will be missed by me after the next 20 min (04:20
Michigan time) so don't bother to reply to it if you haven't already :-)


>78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
8 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 23:28:45 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New Engines

> > My dad has been building engines for several years. HE has never gone
> > easy on the to break them in. As soon as it fires (after being primed of
> > course) he drives em like they had already proven themselves.
>
> I suspect even he breaks in the cams though right? When you first fire an
> engine you should check to be sure nothing is wrong and if all is well set
> the
> idle to 2000 rpm and let it run for 20 minutes keeping an eye on the temp
> and
> oil pressure to break in the cam and lifters. If you don't do this you run
> a
> very good chance of ruining the cam prematurely and sometimes it is
> amazingly quick. I once lost a cam within a few hundred miles because I
> didn't put the followers back in the same place on a used cam. Breaking in
> a
> "new" cam involves exactly the same principle in that the new parts need to
> "mate" to each other under controlled conditions with lots of oil etc..
> Obviously the worn parts had lots of defects which quickly wore against
> each other and destroyed the cam but a new cam is just a lesser degree of
> this scenerio so needs the break in.
>
> Moden moly rings if installed in a properly honed cylinder will seal pretty
> well immediately but still need some breakin time. If your dad is a
> conservative driver then there's no problem but if you get on it hard right
> away it will have bad consequences with modern long life rings. He may
> just
> go out and drive it but I bet in the back of his mind he's paying attention
> to
> keep his foot out of it most of the time for 1000 miles or so. Stop and go
> driving actually breaks rings in faster than steady state high speed
> driving as
> long as you don't gun it too much.

It is very important to do a few things with a new engine. After
run-in, which is the most important thing you do ( see my article: " How
to Run In a New Engine" on the FTE site)there are some things to do in
the first 1000 miles that will assist in optimizing your new engine.

1. Don't for any reason allow it to get hot.

2. Don't lug it.

3. Don't rev it up beyond what is needed under light load (keep it
under 3500-3800 rpms). An occasional 35-55 punch is good, but...

4. Avoid decelleration.

5. Don't keep the engine at one speed for very long.

6. Change the oil evey 500 miles for the first 2000.

If you do these things, you have done all that you can do for your new
engine. An engine is made or broken by the run-in and to a lesser
degree (but still important) break-in, I don't care what anecdotal
evidence that exists. A good collection of parts and careful assembly
can be made junk by one minute of carelessness, I've been there and and
done that.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 23:48:23 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - HVLP

> >I don't think you need a $400 spray gun to paint one truck.100 trucks,
> >maybe.
> >I painted mine with a Harbor Frieght $29.99 chinese Binks clone and had
> >no
> >problems at all with the gun.
>
> I agree completely, but I will be painting more than my truck in the
> furture. Got to pay for the class (and my core courses for my degree) and
> all the tools i had to buy - and the spray gun. While I'm going to school,
> I have access to a spray booth.
>
> Quality, quality, quality, not adequate, OK, or at 10 feet it looks good.

I've been lurking on this thread for a while, and I guess I'll put my
.02 in.

I learned to paint with a Binks gun back in high school in Vo-Tech. I
did a few Imron jobs with them even. I remember though how much of a
hairy bi*ch it was from can to can to get consistant coverage too.
Especially when the barometer was on the low side and unstable (I've
since learned that you paint by the weather, not the calendar) You have
to push the mix up to the edge of "pop" to get a nice "no sanding
needed" finish. I don't have the heart for it anymore, I'm telling you.

My father-in-law bought an HVLP set-up and I was utterly amazed at how
easy it is to lay on good paint. I don't know how well it's going to
stay on but d*mn it sure does go on good. We did a 1939 2N Ford Tractor
, and it looks like a 1939 sales brochure model. Gorgeous. Next will
be a 1935 Ford 1/2 ton that we have apart. It will be black, so I have
my work cut out for me. I love that HVLP.

The Binks gun? It's under the bench, I bring it out to shoot some Dulux
on a frame and under-body once in a while.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 23:50:50 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Voltage

> Ok, so you guys don't get carpel tunnel trying to straighten me out I'll
> tell you
> what happened but I still have a question for Steve: Why would the green
> wire going to the module on dura spark II have power on it with key off?
> (maybe I lett it on by mistake, not sure now)

Is it battery or reference voltage?
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 23:56:33 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Big Bang

> The under-the-truck fireball and bulged muffler sounds like an ignition
> problem. Ignition dies, exhaust system fills with flammable goods, ign
> comes back on, BOOOM!
>
> Maybe a loose wire somewhere? Coil wire loose and dangling around on top
> of the distributor cap? Something ign related I'd bet, doesn't sound like
> a carb problem...

I did this once on purpose to a '71 LTD by turning off the ignition
switch and turning it back on at 45 mph, BOOOOMMM. Honey there's
somthing wrong with the car, how about let's get another truck...
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 00:02:34 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More on paint

>
> I have a 64 F100 that's turned out to be a perfect example of the "snowball
> effect" (old thread). I also have a 73 F100 that I label as "rough and
> reliable." Both need paint jobs.
>
> I recently put a door and fender on my 73 after clipping a deer, and did
> the
> body work and painting myself. I found it to be challenging and
> time-consuming, but also enjoyable. I've done a good bit of woodworking,....

---

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