61-79-list-digest Thursday, September 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 439



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Speedo cable
FTE 61-79 - The ongoing brake conversion
FTE 61-79 - moving to Mars
Re: FTE 61-79 - adress
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 id
FTE 61-79 - RE:Correction to RE:'67-'72 Power Steering, Power Brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - The ongoing brake conversion
FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark
FTE 61-79 - RE: 300 straight six revisited
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 dura spark
Re: FTE 61-79 - The ongoing brake conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 300 straight six revisited
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark
FTE 61-79 - Other than blow-by.
FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark
Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark
FTE 61-79 - 61-79 FE Swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns
Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns
FTE 61-79 - free 292 Y block parts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns
Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Atlanta Get-together at the Atlanta Motor Speedway
FTE 61-79 - Parts at NJ junkyard
Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns
FTE 61-79 - For Ken Payne
FTE 61-79 - Spray Painting
Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns

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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 08:23:24 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Speedo cable

Jim Merlo was inquiring about the speedo cable location on Np 435.

I did some investigating last evening and found out the following: The
NP 435's in my 4X4's do not have a speedo cable fitting. The tail shafts
on them have a mount for the Xfer case shifter and nothing else. Speedo
cable exits the Xfer case. The NP 435 in my farm truck(a 2wd F350 flatbed)
has the fitting on the tailshaft(if you can call it a tailshaft) drivers
side slightly above center of output shaft and angled downward.

Hope this helps.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

Stu: I still haven't located that spare tire carrier, I'm sure I have
one, and I'll eventually locate it.


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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 07:36:30 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - The ongoing brake conversion

Well, the conversion to power disc brakes continues, and I can pass along
some info verified so far----

1. The lnk fromt he '75-style power booster to the '69-style pedal
(automatic) definitely needs to be lengthened by app. 1/2-in. (still to do).
The pedal will go all the way to the floor with the stock one, and never
fully actuate the brakes.

2. If you ever use suspension bushings from Energy Suspension, (I do like
their product) for the I-beam-to-frame mount, check this: the 2wd uses a 5/8
bolt for this mount, the 4wd uses a 9/16. How do I know this? En. Sus.
packaged the wrong sleeve with the bushing I bought, and I found this out
after much beating, cussing, etc.
A difference of .062 diameter is a liiiiiiitle to much for a press fit, much
less a slip-fit. Once contacted, they did recognize the error and replaced
the sleeves, but do yourself a favor and check the sleeves ahead of time
just to be sure and save some aggravation.

3. The tie-rods/draglink ends from the early do differ from the later. The
later uses a thicker boss at the spindle, so the taper is longer on the
later ones. As Ken mentioned in his, you can grind down the thickness of the
boss by about 1/8-in. Another alternative is to either: grind the thickness
of the castele nut down some from the bottom; cut the slot in the castle nut
that lines up with the cotter-pin hole deeper. The problem is that the nut
dos not go as far down on the threaded end when it gets tight, so the nut
slots don't go deep enough for the hole. In my case, my tie-rod/draglink
ends were pretty worn, so I just replaced them with new ones for a '75,
everything else is identical between them.

I do have a question - can anyone with a '73-'79 with an FE, preferably with
4-barrel tell me where the vacuum line on your brake booster connects on
your engine? Actually, any FE-4barrel should be valid, regardless of year or
vehicle. I have two choices. The best looking one is a fitting in the
manifold, behind and to the right (passenger) side of the carb.

I have been taking digital pictures of the process along the way.

Jim E.



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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 07:58:01 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - moving to Mars

I'll be the driving the 79 F150 with the 44 mag under the seat. If I'm
going to jail anyway, I might as well go for something worthwhile instead
of failure to receive an anti-pollution signal.

A word of caution to anyone thinking of adding an oil level light. My
Towncar has one of those things, but I think that the entire eletrical
system is controlled by the computer somehow. Just something to think
about. I would like to hear success stories on this project.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, freshly painted, straight door; no trim yet, but
it locks and keeps the cool air in !!!!
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 09:43:34 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - adress

At 01:27 AM 9/9/98 -0700, you wrote:
>My ford-truck email adress works great and I highly recomend it.
>Considering what I get off of these lists I figure buying a adress was
>the least I could do. By the way, my truck seems to run better now
>that I have my www.ford-trucks window sticker installed.
>

I get better milage with my sticker! Really! I slow down
whenever I pass another Ford truck or accelerate from
stoplights slower when there's a Ford truck behind me. I
like giving them a chance to read it.

Ken


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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 11:16:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 id

From: "JAMES MERLO"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 id
Date sent: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 22:29:55 -0500

> The 1975 460 I came across was said to have come out of a pickup, but.....
>
> it appears to have a front sump on the oil pan. I have heard that all
> pickups had a rear sump.

2wd have font sumps like a car, same pan.

> Are there any telltale items to confirm that it was out of a truck? Isn't
> there something about the way the he passenger side exhaust outlet is
> pointed?

passenger side exhaust points more directly toward the rear rather than down
like the driver side.

> Is there something about the water inlet on the manifold? Any
> other clues?

Not that I'm aware of



78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 11:30:55 EDT
From: CATLN7 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Correction to RE:'67-'72 Power Steering, Power Brakes

>Along this same subject. I replaced my 390 engine & tranny with another
>of the same but in better condition. Forgot where the spring hooks to
>from the clutch fork to what. I now have it running to the clutch lever
>coming down from the block. Doesn't look right.
>
> Anyone ?

The spring I was referring to in an earlier post is the big spring attached to
the clutch pedal and the pedal support bracket. About 1/4' thick and wound 2"
in diameter. Without it the clutch pedal will slam into the floor and won't
return. The other return spring is down on the throwout fork lever and
attaches to the frame cross member (on older 2WD anyway) to keep the clutch
adjuster's "cone" seated to the throwout fork.

Chris Thompson
67 F100 302/C4 finally!!!
68 Cougar DGS 302/C4
82 Merc LN7 1.6L/4sp
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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 11:42:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The ongoing brake conversion

From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - The ongoing brake conversion
Date sent: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 07:36:30 -0500

> 3. The tie-rods/draglink ends from the early do differ from the later. The
> later uses a thicker boss at the spindle, so the taper is longer on the
> later ones. As Ken mentioned in his, you can grind down the thickness of
> the boss by about 1/8-in.

When I converted my 2wd to 4wd (75 van) the front steering links were
already in place but the drop pitman arm was made for a 4wd and had a
larger tapered hole in it so I used the original van links and put a shim around
the tapered pin to fill up the hole and the link installed like it was made for it.
I carefully trimmed the shim stock to make a cone with edges matching, not
over lapping to gain as much support as possible in the hole without leaving
any empty spaces or lumps. Put anti-seize on this so the shim doesn't rust
and cause trouble later. It doesn't take much, I think about 0.010" shim
stock is what I used.

Now that I think about it I can't remember why I used the original van stuff
but there was a reason.........:-) Maybe the 4x4 stuff was too badly worn so I
just used what I had, can't remember.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 10:10:39 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark

Steve,

I'm considering changing to a Dura-Spark when I pull my heads soon. I
don't know diddly about them, what do I need for the conversion and what
application should I get it from for an FE?

> Also, the pick-up coil in the d-spark distributors will trigger an MSD
> unit nicely, so You could use Your distributor with an MSD box if You
> wanted to. I imagine that lots of the other aftermarket spark boxes
> will work with the stock duraspark distributor, but the duraspark/MSD
> combination is the only one I have any experiance with.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 09:03:43 -0600
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 300 straight six revisited

During the recent thread on the 300 straight six somebody, sorry I forgot =
who, mentioned that they had recently put in a remanufactured engine. =
What is the general consensus on remanufactured engines? I'm kind of =
leery of them, but this is based on absolutely no real life experience. =
I could pick one up pretty cheap around here from 2 different remanufacture=
rs, one is "Gopher Motors" out of Montana and the other is "Aaron (or =
Arin, not sure) Automotive" out of Kansas. What do you all think? It's =
definately cheaper than a rebuild done locally and I don't have a place to =
do it myself.

High Plains Richard
'72 F-100 (with a very sick 240)
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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 11:12:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 dura spark

From: sdelanty sonic.net
Date sent: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 22:08:51 -0700
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 id

> >Will another vehicles distributor fit in the 460? How feasible is it to
> >get part from a Duraspark II and put them in my distributor. This is not
> >academic as I need to have something for an ignition system. Ideas?
>
> The distributor and pick-up coil are the same for DS-1,2,3 aren't they? I
> don't see why You couldn't just grab the duraspark 2 box out of any donor
> vehicle and use it with Your distributor.

AFAIK, yes they were all the same but some wire got changed at some point
around 76 so you have to try to get the pickup and module to match to be
safe. The dura spark 1 (green strain relief I believe) only lasted the first year
of production (74-75) and they added some start features and called it II but
essentially they are the same deal.

You can use a points dizzy by replacing just the vac plate and rotor assy,
leaving the mechanical advance system intact if you want. That's how I
finally got my 460 to run the way I wanted by using a 68 or so points dizzy.
Any dizzy from a 351m/400 or 429/460,351C or 351W will work I believe,
not sure about the windsor but the curve won't necessarily be what you want.
I have heard that the yellow strain relief offers more spark strength due to CA
emissions stuff so is a better performance version but, again pay attention to
the wiring due to changes in 76 and I believe one earlier. The color was not
changed to flag the wire use change so it's confusing.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 11:32:30 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The ongoing brake conversion

>I do have a question - can anyone with a '73-'79 with an FE, preferably with
>4-barrel tell me where the vacuum line on your brake booster connects on
>your engine? Actually, any FE-4barrel should be valid, regardless of year or
>vehicle. I have two choices. The best looking one is a fitting in the
>manifold, behind and to the right (passenger) side of the carb.

Hmm...seems like mine's comin off the back of the spacer plate, though the
intake and plate are actually from a 65 390 Galaxie. I think it came off
of a simialr space on my EGR plate (though the EGR was blocked off)

Hope this helps


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 12:31:34 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 300 straight six revisited

Date sent: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 09:03:43 -0600
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 300 straight six revisited

> What is the general consensus on remanufactured engines? I'm kind of
> leery of them

And for good reason but not all are cheap and some are very good. If you
just need to keep the beast running for a while and take a little care with it
most of them will get you another couple of years service and for the price
that's still pretty inexpensive transportation which is how I look at it.

If you plan to work the truck fairly hard you may want to consider some of
the better houses like the one recently discussed which has a net address:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.imall.com/stores/reconauto/reconauto1.html

These guys sound like they take pride in their work so may be a good bet.
Problem is they all make booboos and all have lemons no matter how hard
they try so you need to get some experience with a company and a feel for
the kind of service you can expect etc..

As I said though, even if the bearings are all different sizes and you can't
rebuild the reman engine later it's still a good investment if you can get a few
good years out of it, especially if you can install it yourself.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 15:29:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark

Date sent: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 10:10:39 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark

> I'm considering changing to a Dura-Spark when I pull my heads soon. I
> don't know diddly about them, what do I need for the conversion and what
> application should I get it from for an FE?

Dura spark came out in 74 so you would have to find an FE engine later than
that or retrofit the plate and rotor from a different dizzy to convert it. They
are essentially self contained so you have to get the wiring harness off
virtually any dura spark vehicle to get the plugs etc. and just plug the module
into the dizzy and the red and white wires on the module go to 8v and 12v
respectively........8v from the ignition "On" position and 12v from the start
relay pin. Just make sure the plugs are in good condition and put silicone
grease in them so you get a good connection.

Also the module has to be well grounded through it's mounting bolts to work
well so don't attach it to a rusty, falling apart fender unless you also use a
ground wire to a good ground :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 15:37:09 -0400
From: "John Peck"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Other than blow-by.

When I got my 69-F100 w/360 it belched smoke and blew oil out the rocker
covers in several locations. Used a lot of oil too. The breathers where
completely choked with hard oil crud. One of the first things I did was
pull the valve covers and scrape everything with a scribe and shop vac'd.
Also plumbed the oil port drains front and back with a copper wire (the oil
would pool in the covers and would drain only after sitting a good while).
Ran motor flush of some sort through the engine. Dropped the oil pan and
scrapped all. Replaced gaskets with rubber. Changed oil. The engines been
running great ever since and uses about 1 Quart between oil changes, no
leaks. Engine has about 130K and is original. Have replaced a few minor
things like fuel and water pump. So, not including regular maintenance, it
has cost me about $200 in parts. I got off easy. But I think a lot of
those engines could use a little of this maintenance and it's simple. Only
hard thin was jacking the engine up to remove the oil pan. It's a amazing
4x4 piece of wood across the bumper and a furniture strap can do.

With all the talk of blow-by the description of problems reminded me of
this. I was sweating big time that the engine was to worn but by doing
simple fixes like this gave me a reliable truck. Hope this helps.


John Peck
johnpeck visuallink.com

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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 13:46:35 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns

Who else manufactures Paint Spray Guns besides Binks??

Is anybody using a High Volume Low Pressure Gun? How do you like it?

Later
Keith Srb
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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 13:57:01 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark

>I'm considering changing to a Dura-Spark when I pull my heads soon. I
>don't know diddly about them, what do I need for the conversion and what
>application should I get it from for an FE?


Only '75-'76 FE's had duraspark, so it can be a little tough to find
distributors at the wreckers. When You do find them, they are usually
very worn out.
I ended up getting a rebuilt FE duraspark distributor from the parts
house for about $40 plus $30 core charge. The guy took a worn out
302 distributor for a core, so I didn't have to pay the core $.
The ign coil, spark box, and harness all came off an '80 van with
a 302. When You get the stuff at the wreckers, make sure to get the spark
box, coil, all the conectors, and as much wiring harness as You can snip
loose fron the donor vehicle. Also get the big cap adapter, cap, and rotor
from the donor. The cap, adaptor, and rotor are the same for 302 as for FE
so if You find a nice set, grab it. Also, if You find a set of wires in
good condition, grab them. The big cap uses the 8mm wires,and the ends are
different so Your old wires wont fit. (unless You are already running the
big cap) I found a brand new set of nice blue Belden 8mm wires on a 302 at
the wreckers, and they fit the FE just fine.

Once You've got all the parts in hand, hooking it up is easy.
I believe someone had the schematic posted on a website at one time, but
I don't see it in my bookmarks. If You can't find a schematic, let me know
and I'll see what I can come up with.


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.


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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 14:20:27 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark

>> I'm considering changing to a Dura-Spark when I pull my heads soon. I
>> don't know diddly about them, what do I need for the conversion and what
>> application should I get it from for an FE?

>Dura spark came out in 74 so you would have to find an FE engine later than
>that or retrofit the plate and rotor from a different dizzy to convert it.
They
>are essentially self contained so you have to get the wiring harness off
>virtually any dura spark vehicle to get the plugs etc. and just plug the
module
>into the dizzy and the red and white wires on the module go to 8v and 12v
>respectively........8v from the ignition "On" position and 12v from the start
>relay pin.

No, I think that's wrong. The red wire is the power lead for the module,
and needs to get a *good solid 12V* from the ignition switch.
Only the wire to the "+" side of the coil should have 8 volts
(because of the ballast resistor). The red one *must* connect to switched 12v,
not 8v off the coil side of the ballast.
The white wire does indeed go to the starter solenoid, so it is only energized
while the motor is cranking. It's purpose is to retard the spark a few degrees
(6-8?) during cranking to reduce the load on the starter.
You can leave the white wire disconnected if You like and the box still works
fine, it only disables the "spark retard during cranking" feature.

> Just make sure the plugs are in good condition and put silicone
>grease in them so you get a good connection.
>
>Also the module has to be well grounded through it's mounting bolts to work
>well so don't attach it to a rusty, falling apart fender unless you also use a
>ground wire to a good ground :-)

Yeah, like Gary says, silicone grease those connectors, and make sure
the box is WELL grounded. Should give years of trouble-free performance.


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.


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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 16:26:14 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns

At 03:46 PM 9/9/98 , you wrote:
>Who else manufactures Paint Spray Guns besides Binks??
>
>Is anybody using a High Volume Low Pressure Gun? How do you like it?
>Keith Srb

Sata, Sharpe, and DeVelbiss are three very good paint gun manufacturers.
Binks is on the low end of the quality scale. They have web pages
www.sharpe1.com - www.devilbiss.com - don't know about sata. Go to the
Spray Painting 101 BBS at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.horizonweb.com/wwwboard/Spray_101/wwwboard.html There you will
probably find more than you want to know about paints and spray guns.

I'm about to buy a HVLP gun - a Sharpe Platinum. From what I've read on
the internet and heard from several people that do professional show car
finishing, the Platinum is just about the best HVLP gun available (it's
around $375) - Most people that do show car finishes don't use HVLP guns -
they use gravity feed conventional guns. The Plaitinum is said to put down
a nice finish, however. I'm taking an auto body refinishing course as my
elective this semester so I can learn how to properly paint my truck ('78
F150).

Email me offline and lets talk spray guns.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN SITE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 14:28:02 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark

Ahhh, I just found it...
This should answer most questions about the care and feeding of duraspark...


www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.


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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 12:53:35 EDT
From: bobherring juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 61-79 FE Swap

In response to the FE swap into the pre-65:
I have a catalog from Carpenter's. They sell a
cross member for the pre-65 trucks that can
be ordered for small or big block Ford or Ch*vy
engines. The last time I checked, it was $75.
They also have Borg Warner mounts for it and
they wanted $96 for the set.
I called Cargo USA here in Waco,Texas and
they cross-matched them to a set they have for
$16 each.
They also sell a transmission cross-member for varying
years and transmissions.
Their number is 800/476-9653. They usually charge $3.00
for the catalog but they sent me one when I called about parts.

The number for the Cargo store is 254/776-3777. They advertise as
wholesale to the public and ship anywhere.

I found another company called Transdapt at 310/921-0404
that had a cross member for a 64.

Just for info, Columbus Performance Parts, 800/348-8032,
supposedly has free shipping on engine kits.


Bobby Herring
'64 F100 short-wide, was 292 Y-block/3speed,
motor in pieces, make me an offer
'72 F100 400/C6 in progress
'93 Ranger V6/Auto/Super cab

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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 14:43:51 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns

>Who else manufactures Paint Spray Guns besides Binks??

DeVilbis(sp?), Speedaire, Wagner, Ingersoll Rand, Campbell Hausfeld, others.

>Is anybody using a High Volume Low Pressure Gun? How do you like it?

I never have used one, but quite a lot of shops are now using them.
I still use an old Binks gun when I have the misfortune to have
to paint something...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.


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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 17:07:01 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns

>From: Mike Schwall
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns
>Date: Wed, Sep 9, 1998, 4:26 PM
>

>At 03:46 PM 9/9/98 , you wrote:
>>Who else manufactures Paint Spray Guns besides Binks??
>>
>>Is anybody using a High Volume Low Pressure Gun? How do you like it?
>>Keith Srb
>
>Sata, Sharpe, and DeVelbiss are three very good paint gun manufacturers.
>Binks is on the low end of the quality scale. They have web pages
>www.sharpe1.com - www.devilbiss.com - don't know about sata. Go to the
>Spray Painting 101 BBS at
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.horizonweb.com/wwwboard/Spray_101/wwwboard.html There you will
>probably find more than you want to know about paints and spray guns.
>
>I'm about to buy a HVLP gun - a Sharpe Platinum. From what I've read on
>the internet and heard from several people that do professional show car
>finishing, the Platinum is just about the best HVLP gun available (it's
>around $375) - Most people that do show car finishes don't use HVLP guns -
>they use gravity feed conventional guns. The Plaitinum is said to put down
>a nice finish, however. I'm taking an auto body refinishing course as my
>elective this semester so I can learn how to properly paint my truck ('78
>F150).
>
>Email me offline and lets talk spray guns.
>
>Mike


This is a timely topic for me too! Let's please keep discussing it here!

Thanks,

Nils Gore


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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 17:37:27 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - free 292 Y block parts

I have miscellaneous parts for a 292 Y block out of a 64 F100.

Block, Heads (disassembled), intake, etc., etc.

Also, a Warner 3-speed tranny, drive shaft and assorted parts I won't need
when I put in a new 302 w/ auto.

All of the above are free for the taking. I live in northeast Mississippi.
Whatever I don't get rid of soon is headed for the scrap yard. :-(

I can't vouch for any of the motor parts or the tranny, as the motor was
disassembled when I got it. It looked like it had thrown a rod. To be
honest, the stuff is a mess. That's why I didn't re-build it.

e-mail me direct if you want to find out more about this stuff.



Nils Gore
64 F100
73 F100
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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 17:50:58 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns

>This is a timely topic for me too! Let's please keep discussing it here!
>Nils Gore

Whatcha thinkin about painting?

Mike

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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 21:12:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns

yes-

lets talk paint and body. I am interested in advice on paint. would like
to know if it is a realistic idea for me to do a decent paint job on my 71
f250. like a full strip, prep, primer, paint and clearcoat. what are good
books on the subject. i have one- how to paint your car by David Jacobs
Jr, motorbooks Intl. that is so poorly organized that i cant seem to
extract any useful info from it. anyone know of something good and simple
published on the subject?

also I need advice on body welding. I have a buzz box stick welder- can
such a welder be used for thin sheetmetal body work, or is a wirefeed
necessary? I have mainly used it for exhaust work and heavier.

thanks
clare

Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 21:27:19 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Atlanta Get-together at the Atlanta Motor Speedway

Sorry that I didn't get in touch with the people I promised to
call about this. Been working late.

Anyways, for the FTE gathering at the Atlanta Motor Speedway
(US Ford Truck Fest).....

We'll meet Saturday at 3 at the main entrance ticket office.
This is by the club house and condos, Richard Petty statue is
out front.

Mail me if you intend to be there and I'll send you my phone
number so we can chat. I'd like to bring some folding chairs
and perhaps sit down and chat over a late lunch/early dinner.

Peggy and I will be wearing yellow F100 Supernationals t-shirts.
Just look for the heavy guy with brown hair and a beard (ok, not
a good description, there are a million people like that at
truck shows).

Regards,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com




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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 22:30:37 EDT
From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Parts at NJ junkyard

I was at a junkyard about a 1/2 hour away from home and came across a few
1973-1979 trucks. There was: 1. F-350 2wd (1973-1977) super camper special
(140" wheelbase). 2. F-250 4x4 (1973-1976) 3. Two Broncos (1978-1979) 4.
F-150 4x4 (1968ish-1972) short bed. All the trucks a pretty rusty (like most
New Jersey trucks), but have all the drive train parts there. I forgot the
guys business card at my garage, but if anyone is interested I''ll post the
number. It's a small yard, but has alot. They even have a complete 1996
F-250 4x4 Power Stroke Diesel motor, transmission, & transfercase. The entire
truck is there minus the complete body. The guy wants $3500.00 for the motor
& $1500.00 for the automatic transmission & transfercase. It has 31,000 miles
on the whole truck. One of the 1979 Bronco's has the factory rollbar (bolt
together type), front & rear sway bars, and the sliding rear windows for the
cap. If you get the windows, don't forget to get the rubber gaskets, as they
are different then the flat glass. Well...If interested please E-mail me at
FORDTRKNUT AOL.COM.
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT (38" boggers, 4" lift, 3" body lift)
1979 F-350 Ranger Lariet 4x4 (460 Big Block)
Wayne Grabley
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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 22:30:59 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Paint Spray Guns

At 08:12 PM 9/9/98 , you wrote:
>yes-
>
>lets talk paint and body. I am interested in advice on paint. would like
>to know if it is a realistic idea for me to do a decent paint job on my 71
>f250. like a full strip, prep, primer, paint and clearcoat.

All depends on how much you want to spend and how good of a finish you
want. You can spend as little as $175 for paint alone (not including
sandpaper and accessories, or primer, primer-surfacer, or sealer) to as
much as $550 and over for just paint and clear (basecoat/clearcoat). From
what I've learned, if you want to do it right, it costs money and lots of it.

>what are good
>books on the subject. i have one- how to paint your car by David Jacobs
>Jr, motorbooks Intl. that is so poorly organized that i cant seem to
>extract any useful info from it. anyone know of something good and simple
>published on the subject?

Books will tell you what steps to take like sanding down to bare metal,
conditioning the metal, what primers/surfacers to use, etc., but books
won't help when it comes time to picking up the gun and laying on a good
finish. That takes lots of practice - as I am finding out. It helps to
watch someone else that has done it for many years - that is what I like
most about this auto body refinishing course I'm taking. The instructor
has been painting for over 30 years, and he is always looking over my
shoulder to make sure I'm using proper gun technique.

>also I need advice on body welding. I have a buzz box stick welder- can
>such a welder be used for thin sheetmetal body work, or is a wirefeed
>necessary? I have mainly used it for exhaust work and heavier.

I've never seen or heard of using an arc welder for body panel repair.
Most are done with MIG welders. I believe Eastwood Co. (
www.eastwoodco.com ) sells a device that allows you to "weld" in a new
panel without the use of a welder. I think it uses adhesive and rivets.
It sells for under $100 for a kit. I don't know how good it is, I've never
used it. My '78 F150 is rusting out it the typical places - bottom of
doors and bed. I plan to go to the junk yards and find a straight clean
longbed and two doors. I figure it would be cheaper to go that route than
to cut and weld in new panels (I don't have a MIG welder, just an arc
welder and oxy-acytalene torch).

Mike


_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN SITE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 23:57:30 -0400
From: "Melayne Arnold"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - For Ken Payne

I just got back from Texas and found wife had problem with crashed system.
Lost all addresses, Favorite page marks, etc. Please e-mail me privately at
your conveneince as I need some info. Thanks.


Stoney Arnold
arnoldm bbtel.com

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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 20:42:04 -0700
From: Doug Neely
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Spray Painting

Check the community colleges that have paint and bodywork
courses, most sell text books for the course. You could also
talk to the instructor and see what reference books he
recommends. I was going to take a MIG welding course
and after talking to the instructor found out I would be
350 dollars richer if I bought the book and used my own
welder to learn at home.....


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